nice video!

Need link for buy this

Never used SX50, but i'm using SX60HS by 2 years now. I hated that camera at the beginning but i got used with it and no matter of what Film SLR or DSLR i'm working with, i always keep it with me. Related to your topic, i think you should understand the limitations the camera has in F/Stops. Adding a 2.2x telephoto adapter to your canon SX60 requires you to stop down your aperture, but you can't do that because that camera can stop down the aperture up to F8. While in an hypothetical reality it can be corrected by modifying the telephoto adapter, i never took time to try it for my SX60HS... but i did spend some time about it with my cheap DSLRs Nikon D3100, D3200, D7100 and got almost good results. With high end Film SLRs like Nikon N8008, F90 etc.. i got excellent analog photos, but with consumer grade Film SLRs like Nikon F65 which work with AF and AF-S, etc cameras.. my modification didn't work as required other things which wasn't worth time and effort for those camera. Is it worth using a front lens telephoto adapter? Depends. Most of cameras i have are Nikon and i use good real glass vintage lenses in those. Finding a solution for some rare cases was worth as was one solution for many cameras. Speaking for Canon SX60HS, I tried to adapt it for some specific uses but without getting an acceptable result. Life is too short to loose it with tests and SX60 is good with zoom range it already has. With a good Raw Editor it goes OK with acceptable good quality photos, but straight from camera it isn't good unless you downscale images and time to spend for modifying will never be worth. BTW nice video.

@jenniferwilcox2525

2 жыл бұрын

You seem very knowledgable may I ask you a question about a similar effect this lens gives me? When using the 2.2 telephoto lens with my Canon 850D 18-55mm kit lens I can see what looks like the barrel of the kit lens in the viewfinder and on my images and videos. I can see it in this video as well. Is there a fix for this other than not using the telephoto lens? Thank you!

@valkia-innos4972

2 жыл бұрын

@@jenniferwilcox2525 This video talks about Chromatic Aberration or Color Fringing at contrast lines and also softening of image... and those can be skipped by stepping down the lens aperture, yet in bridge cameras like Canon SX60HS etc.. users are stuck with the lens it has and cannnot change it, but also their minimal aperture is F/8 so they face a lot of limitations that knowing how to overcome those issues require time to get used to tho camera. Yes i understand what you mean. Your issue with tele extension is called vignetting and occurs when the front lens extension (be this a tele extension or even non appropriate lens hood) is not calculated on its design to support the widest view angle of your lens that for 18mm on Kit Lens (18-55mm) is something about 60 to 62 degree wide. In short answer you are using the wrong type of front lens tele extension and you need one that doesn't block that angle of view, but you won't find that on third part lens front lens extensions and is hard to find a company that will do the perfect extension. They usually care to make and sell camera mount tele extensions or even extra expensive lenses. You can avoid vignetting by increasing your focal length from 18mm to 21mm or something like that (until you see it no more). Of course we use tele extensions to shoot with the widest aperture possible which in kit lenses is Variable 3.5 for 18mm in order to have as better as possible a background separation from the subject (other than just simply doubling of zoom ability of the lens), but by zooming a little to focal length 21-22mm you are just stepping down to F/4 and bringing your subject optically twice near... means that you are still going to have background blur and subject separation from it. aditional things --------- There is a trick to get even closer to your subject that stays in mounting a Macro filter in your lens (which will shorten your DoF and let you have a better blurred background and separation out of Kit lenses) and then mounting your tele extension, but in non controlled light environments (like in nature or places where light comes from every direction... meaning out of a studio) you are going to face more haze... which is the one that softens the images. Although these can be easily solved in post production those are time consuming... yet nothing to worry that much. Anyway many times the haze and other issues can bring out very lovely and unique photographs that really work out even as commercial ones (but not to be presented in stock photography). You can also cut down much of negative bouncing light from around through whole these extra glass elements added to the original lens and even minimize color fringing, by adding a CPL filter in front of your tele extension and that's it. You will have better results.

@yz249

2 жыл бұрын

@@valkia-innos4972 Hi, sorta unrelated but I'm deciding between 2 choices, either the 2.2x front lens mount in this video or the chinese 420-800mm zoom lens. They both cost roughly the same from aliexpress. I was considering the 420-800mm for a super cheap way into astrophotography, but then I'm not sure whether getting this would be worth it instead (for a Canon 80d and 18-135mm IS stm kit lens from the 650d) The 420-800mm is fully manual, f8-f16, no aperture control, manual focus, no ois. From reviews on KZread it seems fairly sharp, but obviously limited to really just one purpose. So i'm Considering this, as while I'll only get ~400mm equivalant it can be used with my actual lens, takes a few seconds to screw on, can use AF etc. But I'm wondering how the image quality will be at 135mm. Any recommendations?

@valkia-innos4972

2 жыл бұрын

@@yz249 Hi. I never used one of those Junti telescope lens for DSLRs and as far as i know no one has any Lens Correction Profile of Jintu Lenses for RAW Editors (be this a photo studio, home studio or a solo pro photographer or an entry photographer ) and although any photo can be corrected at certain degree to be within acceptable good parameters that will be a time consuming if it is done manually (not that is hart to build a correction profile anyway). Comparing between front lens tele extension for Kit lenses and Jintu lenses, although those present the same optical issues, in kit lenses your DSLR has a lens profile in its camera EEPROM (firmware) which will solve half or your issues and also will still assist you in auto-focus or aperture flexibility, but also in Raw editors you have already Lens Correction Profile and all you have to do is... to your aperture recorded inside your RAW Photo data and just add the 2x factor (of extension) of your Focal length used + haze removal and sharp a little your images... a job of 13 seconds at all and that's it. So a front lens extension will always be far more better than one of those telescope manual lenses for DSLR. Speaking of 18-135mm lenses those are good but also you have plenty of other choices like 75-300 kit lenses used which are good and a lot faster than Jintu... F/5.6 vs F/8.2 and at crop factor 1.6 that 75-300mm becomes bigger zoom and a used in good condition doesn't cost much more than a Jintu, but also you have many other solutions from vintage lenses good lenses. Whatever EF Mount lens from mainstream companies (Canon, Sigma, Tokina or other ones) will be great and a lot better than other cheap telescope lenses, because you can use those lenses for any other type of shooting (with some limitations), but below 300mm prices start to go higher for mainstream lenses. Yet to save money there are Lenses which have good results for manual lenses and also have a Lens Correction Profile for Canon EOS DSLRs in RAW Editors. 1) MTO 11 CA 10/1000 (F/10 1000mm Mirror Lens) 2) MTO-500 (500mm F/8 Mirror Lens) 3) Beroflex 500mm (F/8 Optical Lens) You can use other telescopic lenses and define a correction profile all by yourself and with a little patience can get used to Luna-F11 shooting rule for Astro Photography but don't run to order online. Ask photographers or used camera stores around you if someone have one of those chinese lenses and test it before decide to buy. Other options are to use good Bridge Camera that at least can zoom 21 - 1200mm Full Frame equivalent focal range and make sure Bridge Camera support RAW Photos and your RAW editor translates correctly your RAW Photos. The last but main option is to shoot stars with fastest of the lens you already have until you decide to take next step toward PRO Astro photography. Shooting the sky with 420mm won't let you get any mush better photo of the stars then 75-300 ... and even Venus will be only look just less then a x2 times white dot. Please don't get me wrong as i am not an astro photographer except for i shot the moon and stars each time i got a new camera on hands (especially bridge cameras)... where except for my cameras the rest of those belonged to friends, customers etc who always could find something to complain at our old studio door :)

@yz249

2 жыл бұрын

@@valkia-innos4972 cheers for the thorough reply, really appreciate it. I was looking at the 75-300 but in reviews there was an incredible amount of chromatic aberration (the most I've seen on any lens). It gets a bit better stopped down to f8 but still alot. The reason I wanted to stay with something pretty cheapish is because anything near/ past £140 and I'd rather get the 24mm f2.8 pancake lens which I've wanted for a while, and would use way more than a super tele, probably become my main lens. I have an 18-135, 10-18mm and 50mm f1.8, only thing I'm really missing is a fast wide angle lens, + the 24mm is tiny so great for travelling. Not sure what I'll do yet, gonna keep thinking. Thanks for the info.

The lens you're using in the video seems to have a massive zoom in capability already. Isn't this TF lens meant to be used with lenses that don't really have that? Basically to add versatility to a single lens, and save some money.

looks like crap

what if yours doesnt come with the connector thing?

HOW DID YOU ADD A SHOE MOUNT TO YOUR CAMERA!

Thanx. : )

I have a PowerShot sx70 hs but I don't know how to add the shoe mount on their

@asaschlobohm

3 жыл бұрын

it doesn’t have one

I could be wrong,But i think someones got their titling wrong lol...Ive never seen a telephoto lens show items further away and more blurred before R O T F L M A O