Storage: To protect against moisture, heat, sparks, and static electricity, store black powder and substitutes in their original containers with the size plainly labeled. Keep the container tightly sealed. Do not store powders in glass containers because glass can produce static electricity.

@whysprs

Жыл бұрын

Very good to know

@user-zm4yg9xv8q

2 ай бұрын

hdpe containers are best.

The factory powder is a benchmark. They use a 1.5 ton press to instantly make pucks. They are dried in minutes with hot air. They are ground with cast Iran wheels on a perforated surface. The product is blasted with steam and tumbled with graphite powder. All of the process was done in a closed system. Almost always being moved along with air. The largest difference is the factory ball milled the brimstone and charcoal together using cast iron cannonballs. A fan with filters and driers pulled the dust out. That was the product. It was far finer than home made. The potassium nitrate was on a separate line where it was pulverized by high pressure air and water jets. Then added to the dust. It was augered to the puck pressing still wet.

@braddougherty3401

2 ай бұрын

Holy chit

Interesting. Looking forward to the next one. Thanks.

So much confusion over grains as weight or volume out there, nice to see a video from someone who knows the difference! For those who are still confused about the terms used in black powder, I'll put it as simply as I can: Grains are a measure of weight. Black powder measures are made so that a given volume of powder will equal a certain weight in grains. They are marked in grains as that is the unit of measurement they are designed to regulate. Black powder measures can be marked in grains as that is the only thing they were intended to measure, and commercial black powder has a reasonably consistent density and granule. This is the source of all the confusion I think. It weighs the same as it's perceived volume because it was designed to. It's actual volume is in cubic centimeters. Granulation is a measure of the size of the individual granules of powder. These sizes are expressed in "F" designations. There are four standard grades, F, FF, FFF, and FFFF. Often abbreviated with a number designation, 3F, 2F, etc. Anything small than 4F is called "fines". Anytime you see a small "g" affixed to the end, I.E. FFFg, that means the powder has been graphite coated, and has nothing to do with size. There is no set standard for these sizes, but there are commonly accepted ones. Though what is commonly accepted in Europe is slightly different than in the US. So keep that in mind as it does affect the strength of a charge compared to what your measure is telling you. Black powder measures are, or at least used to be, available calibrated to different granule sizes, but the most common measures sold are technically calibrated to 3F. I don't know if the granule specific measures are even made anymore. As black powder isn't really all that sensitive to fractional grains, being off a smidge isn't really an issue, unless you are shooting competitively at long range or something I suppose. Different manufacturers vary a little bit in their powder measures, some are known to run a tad high, some a tad low. None are really off enough to matter though. But, for consistency in your groups, stick to the same powder measure. Those long range competitors weigh their charges out ahead of time and don't use a volume measure anyway. Grade is a measure of quality. There is no "FFF" or "FF" etc. grade, that's granulation, as I've already addressed. The grades are/were, in order: fireworks, blasting, cannon, musket, sporting, and fine sporting. The highest grades are no longer commercially made, due to falling demand for black powder after the rise of smokeless powder use. If it wasn't still being used even today for some military applications, I doubt we would even have musket grade any longer. (That's why the DoD recently spent millions to help revive the Goex production) There were also specific rifle and pistol powders you will see referred to in old literature, but those were granulations, not grades. You could buy them in different grades. You can come close to the performance and low fouling of the old discontinued high grade powders by using certain substitutes, but they come with their own set of issues. Some home powder makers are approaching the old sporting grade, but due to the onerous laws, taxes, and regulations concerning the manufacture of powder (far exceeding the needs of safety and common sense) I highly doubt any will ever be commercially made again. There just isn't enough demand to be able to make it profitably.

@robertstallard7836

Жыл бұрын

Excellent explanation. 10/10.

@oldmanpatriot1490

Жыл бұрын

this was excellent......... I personally think ""pucking"" it is just a short cut for people who either dont have patience or are in a hurry...... I find letting the mixture soak for a few hours after adding your IPA/H2O mixture in a air tight container, nitrates the charcoal better than forcing it into the pores with a bottle jack

Good video. I've seen where someone tested balsa charcoal and it was VERY clean and yielded a high velocity. Balsa is the lightest wood on Earth so it makes sense.

Having an Almost Identical memory, and record keeping skills? I started a "Notebook" with batch info so as I go months in the developments of batches, I KNOW? My Floor too gets Fun when I Weld or Grind? I LOVE to Chase this DRAGON! my new go to is FIG tree char!

This is interesting....... So far I have just used the "wet" screening method and my 3F-ish powder yields 25gr compared to a 30gr volume of commercial powder. By "wet" I mean formed into a stuff dough with 50/50 IPA and Water, then just force through a screen by hand. With my 25gr by volume spout on my flask, the commercial powder is giving around 850fps in a percussion revolver and my brew, same volume, just a tad under 800... most in the 780s..... pretty close.... Your very low densities are a surprise...... I am intrigued..... 🙂

@rfdsrd

Жыл бұрын

What charcoal were you using? Are you using a binder such as Dextrin?

@davefellhoelter1343

Жыл бұрын

I did about same with 50% and 10% IPA and acetone on a 20 tone, Now I weigh RO water to 5% to 6.5% and my water has a solution of gum Arabic binder. I am running about 5 to 10% WBV differences. I just got my speed UP, looking for easier ignition now, and made old copier roller mill to safely size my corned pucks. I want to hit my welding sparker once and light my test QC batch. I gotta check my WBV now I just gave up Pucking as it was not getting speeds, reliability, or much noticed? and is a long step. but when it all lines up, good stuff. my new char "go to" is Fig tree! and this bag of central American hardwood BBQ char from Target, along with unknown char left overs from my fire pit, my fastest! or a tie with all three.

Great hanging out in the shop with you , M. !

@lamebeavertradingco.1642

2 жыл бұрын

One day you will my friend. Thank you

Kia Ora ( Howdy) from NZ. Great video. Really interesting and informative. I will put some of your tips to test👍 Merri Kirihimete ( Merry Christmas) Kind regards Best regards Nga mihi Chris

Interesting, thank you sir👍☕️☕️✌️

Thank you

everything black powder. they have the best information out, for black powder. puking is the best.screen powder gets crushed when seating the ball/bullet

Are you polishing the powder after corning? I would think that polished powder would settle with smaller spaces between the grains giving you greater weight per measured volume.

Can you char maple to make a good black powder?? Can you make good powder without a 12-20 ton press???

I screen mine ,think I need a better recipe for powder , mine burns a bit slow I think .

How did you make your Press?

What about screening fine powdered air float charcoal, sulfer, and pot nitrate as to screen mix it to homogenize, then ball mill said comp for, oh say, 8-12 hours in 200 gram batches in a 6 lb rock tumbler convertet to mill bp with a 3/4" drive roller and only one 3 lb drum, then wetting said comp with water that is heated to steaming point with 2% dextrin for said bp comp dissolved in said water, then mixed to create a putty that's on the dryer side, then wet granulated thru the desired screen? I go with said method and find it superior simply due to the fact that I'm making FA powder not FG, I'm making said powder for firewrking, but I've researched pucking and corning because some of my peers seem to think k it's superior to my method, I belive it is correct in being superior for firearms, but when it comes to pyrotechnics, a faster burning comp is desired, I came apon your video and find you to be knowledgeable in this field and would love to hear your opinion on if I should puck and corn my hot fast ball milled bp comp fore use in pyro or if I should keep on keeping o with what I'm doing, in pyro (incase you are un aware) we want the largest amount of gasses and the comps to burn as fast as humanly possible with the most power, I believe graphite polished, pucked ND corned bp is superior for firearms, but not for pyro, witch uses 2fa/4fa blasting grade for this reason,some belive by pucking and corning a grade powder it makes it even better hut would I be correct in assuming by pucking corning, and graphite polishing it will be eaven harder and burn slower witch is counter intuitive to pyrotechnics? Any info would be appreciated and I love your channel, u are super knowledgeable and on top of being a firework hobbiest, I am a hunter and a primitive arms enthusiest, I apreciate your content sir 😊

i wonder how cattails would perform as a charcoal since its so fluffy on the inside.

@lamebeavertradingco.1642

2 жыл бұрын

I do not know, but I would think it will char, since it is a plant. Thank you for the question.

@davefellhoelter1343

Жыл бұрын

That's how "I think?" I have tried about everything. Feathers maybe next? last night I did Chicken and dog poo. More for my case hardening projects, but never know?

@williamcastleberry7338

Жыл бұрын

@@lamebeavertradingco.1642 You might want to try some cardboard and paper. it grinds nice and fluffy. I made some about 3 weeks ago. I haven't had a chance to shoot any of it yet. I seemed to be a quick burning though. I had run across somebody here on you tube that used straw to make charcoal. Well that got me to thinking paper and cardboard is made from wood ((any and all kinds of trees) there's a paper mill about 12 miles from me) I used a paint can full of cardboard and got about 1/3 of a can of charcoal. Try it it might surprise you.

@whysprs

Жыл бұрын

​@@davefellhoelter1343 i would think they would melt like hair does, but would be interested in what you find out.

My question is: compression pucked & sifted vs wet screened to create same consistancy. AND measured out by weight to perform the same by weight. Does one perform better despite pucked is denser. And is one cleaner than the other?

Try one clamp up and one clamp down. It evens the compression.

Have you ever ran wood through a planer and used the shavings to make charcoal?

@rfdsrd

Жыл бұрын

I've heard of folks making good charcoal with cedar shavings used for pet beds.

@ChrisGilliamOffGrid

Жыл бұрын

@@rfdsrd Yeah, I did it after I commented. I have two planers, worked great.

I have made a little BP in the last couple of months. I enjoy messing with it. I have a question about sieve mesh sizes. I have a 4 size set. 10 mesh, 20 mesh, 30 mesh, 40 mesh. Which would be closest to 2 F, and 3 F ? I hate to buy a pound of factory just to check a size of the grains

@rfdsrd

Жыл бұрын

I use 20 mesh to create 3F and then screen that through 40f to remove the fines.

@williamcastleberry7338

Жыл бұрын

@@rfdsrdThank you for the reply. Does the 3F go through the 20 or sit on top and not go through.

@rfdsrd

Жыл бұрын

@@williamcastleberry7338 20 mesh *creates* 3F thru the grating process. The results are *sifted* over 40 mesh which retains 3f on the screen, but allows any fines to pass thru.

@williamcastleberry7338

Жыл бұрын

@@rfdsrd Thank you very much. I have reload for 40+ years, but just now getting into black powder. I was getting ready to buy a pound of 3 F to compare grain size to. Now I I've got to get in gear and get my homemade 50 cal. done so I can shoot it

@user-pk9bx8nq4s

6 ай бұрын

This is close but not exact because there is overlap in commercial powder...Fg Go-10 mesh, NoGo 16mesh. FFg Go 16 Mesh, NoGo 24 Mesh. FFFg Go 24 mesh, NoGo 46 Mesh. FFFFg Go 46 Mesh, NoGo 60 Mesh

Hi, I am interested in your project. I live in northern New Mexico and have some various types of northern Wi hardwoods in house. I have some ironwood, hard maple, hickory. These are dense woods. Is the density related to burn rate? I would be willing to supply some wood for your experiments. Larry

@briansherrillruralliving9708

2 жыл бұрын

I use porous soft woods. If you can score some grapevine you would be in business

@lamebeavertradingco.1642

2 жыл бұрын

From what I have learned I would say no to your question. At this point having done other videos I now becomes a matter of which is cleaner burning. Swiss Powder for now rules. Some have stated Swiss used Buckhorn. Time will tell. Thank you for your comment

@lamebeavertradingco.1642

2 жыл бұрын

@@briansherrillruralliving9708 Thank you for your comment. Does grapevine burn cleaner than most? That seems to be what we all should be looking for. I have heard Swiss powder uses buckhorn, that why it is a very clean burning powder.

@briansherrillruralliving9708

2 жыл бұрын

@@lamebeavertradingco.1642 I know another that said grapevine wasn't as hot as willow but alot less fouling

@lamebeavertradingco.1642

2 жыл бұрын

@@briansherrillruralliving9708 Sorry for taking so long a getting back. I have not used grapevine, thus I will not speak to it. At this point You may have already noticed I am using what is on my property. I will state I do like the Junipers.

could you test the powder by shooting thru a chrono/

@lamebeavertradingco.1642

Жыл бұрын

Yes I could but I do not have a chrono. there are many others making homemade Black Powder who have been testing with a chrono. the Old Ranger is one and Everything Black Powder is another. Thank You

So should one measure by weight of grains on a scale or by your measuring flask grains? On homemade powder.

@johnanderson186

Жыл бұрын

Black powder and BP substitutes are ALWAYS measured by volume. Get or use a BP volumetric powder measure.

@jackblackpowderprepper4940

Жыл бұрын

@@johnanderson186 Thanks

@millah6110

Жыл бұрын

He was confusing people by measuring out grains of powder then weighing out and stating the grams on the scale for weight reference

@jackblackpowderprepper4940

Жыл бұрын

@@millah6110 Yep volume .

@rfdsrd

Жыл бұрын

@@johnanderson186 For muzzleloaders, yes - by volume ... for cartridges, no - by weight.

We had a black powder factory in Glenwillow, Ohio that dates back the the Civil War and beyond. The factory and town blew up 3 times before they shut the factory down. The stuff is extremely volatile, and I sure as hell wouldn't want to be making it at home unless I had a death wish you wanted to visit a burn center fairly soon.

@KathrynLiz1

Жыл бұрын

Commercial processes are more liable to suffer this fate actually because of the huge volumes involved and the difficulty of avoiding a lot of dust and static. Us home brewers of BP usually only make a pound at a time, and we granulate it by a 'wet' method that prevents any sparking. It's all very small scale. In commercial factories the hydraulically compress the powder into hard lumps which are then smashed up and graded through successive screens. This is done with dry product and the dust and potential for disaster are obvious. Making it at home in small amounts needs care, sure, but is safe enough if you exercise that care and keep volumes low.

@rfdsrd

Жыл бұрын

The SAFE way of creating reasonably good black powder is never to mix all three ingredients DRY, always WET.

@youtubesucks-yx6kk

Жыл бұрын

Not really. Companies cut a lot of corners that someone who does it as a hobby would never consider doing. Obviously I wouldn't want to be doing it in a basement, unless it was only me in the house and certain times of year tend to have more static electricity than others, soo someone doing it as a hobby would avoid these times of the year. someone getting paid to work in a factory however does not get the option to just start on a better day. Makes me wish I could get in the business because I certainly would produce a lot less during the time of year that static is more common. We need real people running companies not some businessman who doesn't care about the workers.

@Michael-rg7mx

Жыл бұрын

Sugar packing companies have fires and explosions from the dust. Home use and storage with care and cleaning doesn't catch fire. Is sugar too dangerous for the average person?

@Roy-tp2iy

Жыл бұрын

Your un American

Im making it with punky oak wood, its the outer layer that has rotted and is very light and fluffy when charred even. There is probably a significant amount of charred fungus, bacteria, and insect poop. This way makes it easily avaliable, completely free, similar to balsa wood density or lighter, and is closer to the density of toilet paper. I prefer using organic material, I think it would be more conductive, and is smaller than cellulose fiber, IDK yet, this is my first try making black powder, its getting milled in a pvc container on the lathe, works so far. Brass bits for pulverizing, seems like its doing well. I will probabbly press it in the vice or my log splitter. Probably vice. Would you suggest hydraulic press or other methods? I hear the best density is 1.75 grams per cubic centimeter, dont know yet how compressed that needs to be... Im doing a 1kg batch. Its probably going to turn out well. Im making primers to because online prices are rape. Im using my special little compound for primers. And they all work, formed with copper foil, its pretty easy, al. cans, no way. Will post results if people reply. Thanks for the info!