You always seem to address my questions. Great video again.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Really great info Art! It's so helpful. Thank you :)

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

You're so welcome!

Thank you Art. It's also worth mentioning for those people who are having trouble matching what they see on their monitor to their prints that the printer may be part of the problem. If their monitor is properly calibrated and if they use a commercial print service that uses a properly calibrated printer and if they follow the instructions from that service to prepare their image for printing, they should have a fairly good match. But even then as you pointed out, an image on paper will never look exactly like the same image on a monitor.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

😀

@DavidDufourq

3 жыл бұрын

I think a lot of people just don't understand (until they've experimented) that the colour gamut and black depth possible with printer/ink/paper combo is not even close to what a pro monitor with 100% AdobeRGB 1998 colour gamut can generate. Oh, and never mind the insane black depth of OLED!

Thank you, Art! Very helpful! 👍🏻🍀

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

Problem fixed! My input device had "for no particular reason" flipped to the Pro model whereas I have the Plus.! As it had worked before, never thought to check it. Thanks for all the time you put into this. Ted

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome

Great video. I think you should also add that the majority of screens out there have less colour gamut then pro displays. I've noticed over the years what I see on my pro calibrated monitor is not always what others will see. A surprising finding also is that less colour gamut on consumer displays also translates to the appearance of less dynamic range between light and dark (not just colour) when compared to a pro monitor.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

There is some correlation between dynamic range and color gamut, although part of that can be attributed to our human vision perception as well. This is why display calibration philosophy is never to calibrate for other displays that are out there. There are too many you can't accommodate for all of them, the best you can do is make certain that your display looks good for editing! Cheers and thank you for the comments and thoughts :)

The pc/monitor connect is linked with a DP cable. The USB between the two was also removed and re-installed. Just thought of it - the sound card failed and have an external Sound card now. Would that have made the difference? Thanks, Ted

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

The sound card should not matter, but you can disconnect the sound card and then try and see where that takes you.

Hi Art. thanx for your many videos. Great help! A quick question. U havent been able to find on you channel, tho Im sure its there somewhere. Is there anyway you can flup the image on the PD3200U, and in PP mode? As it is right now, there is sooo much screen realestate not being used due to the horisontal, side by side. It would help alot if the 2 images can be on top of eachother. Hope it makes sense :-)

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

On that model, I am not sure I don't have one to test out in the studio. Also could you elaborate more on what you are trying to do, I don't think that I am understanding you correctly.

@thomaswindfeld728

3 жыл бұрын

@@ArtIsRight It is a little hard to explain. So, I want to tilt the monitor so I get it in a 1080x1920, kinda verticle view. Then I want to use the picture PBP mode and then having the two screen images on top of eachother. (remember, the monitor is now verticle). Does it make any sense? There is an even longer explanation to why I would live this, and I am not going to bore you with it :-D

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

I hear you, let me test this and see what I can find out.

@thomaswindfeld728

3 жыл бұрын

@@ArtIsRight A million thanx. :-)

I'm using a BenQ SW320. My previous had been a 27" Dell UltraSharp. For the Dell, the lookup table is in my graphics card. For the BenQ, it's in the monitor itself. I use DisplayPort to drive the monitors. Given that DP is 16 bits/color, I'd agree that there *might* be some difference between the two, but it would be small (I can't see it). By 'software' do you mean color correction for a device that has only in-software LUTs? The difference between on-monitor and on-paper viewing is like transparencies vs prints. They're just going to be experienced differently, even if you get your color management exactly right. I would argue that it's worth illuminating your entire photo-editing area with the same color temperature that you've calibrated your monitor to, not just your print viewing area. For prints, if you're going to use LEDs, get high-CRI (95 or higher) bulbs. I've had good luck with Hyperikon brand bulbs. Not quite as good as for-print-viewing halogens, but very close. Also, it's worth making sure the wall behind your monitor is a neutral color, and lighting that wall behind your monitor will make your eyes less tired at the end of the day BTW, thanks for posting this!

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for chiming in and for the thoughtful comment Bob. I do plan on doing a video about the light bulb used for viewing prints and talking about CRI further, but I have a ton of print content line up that I want to get out first and then that video would come later. And if for software calibration, yes I am referring to the device that only have in-software LUT, I think we are referring to the same thing here ;)

@DavidDufourq

3 жыл бұрын

I honestly wonder what the science says about how we perceive colour when we're in different lightning conditions. I remember reading that we can decearn wide shifts in multiple light sources with different colour temperature. I've always edited my photos with tungsten lighting until recently getting a daylight system going. In honesty, there has been no noticeable difference, even in when revisiting old work. Daylight bulbs make sense for viewing prints but editing, not convinced.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

If you are talking about environmental lighting, then for the most part that does not matter. What matters is the white point of our display and the color of the light that you are using to view the print.

Hey Art! Thank you for uploading all of your videos, they're super informational. I'm still having trouble verifying my calibration on my SW2700PT. I'm on Windows 10, I've got my DVI and USB cables connected, I've tried panel native/argb/srgb with version 2 (and 4). Still, I'm unable to verify my calibration. There has only been one time my average delta passed, but I've never been able to get my max below 5. If it means anything, I'm using a nvidia geforce 2060 graphics card and I have all of my drivers installed and up to date. Any tips are appreciated!

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Are you using Nvidia game ready driver or Nvidia studio driver?

@andrewbruening3665

3 жыл бұрын

ArtIsRight I’m using the game ready driver. Should I be using the studio driver instead? Also one more question, how come “calibration 1” is greyed out on my monitor interface? I can’t select it

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, you should be using the studio driver instead. Because it is much more Stable than a game ready driver. If your calibration one is grayed out it means that the calibration never really take hold on the display.

@andrewbruening3665

3 жыл бұрын

ArtIsRight thanks! It’s still not validating though. I’m getting a maximum delta of 6-7 after a few different tries. Do you have any other ideas?

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Can you try another cable other than DVI? Display port perhaps or HDMI? What version of PME are you running? If you are running 1.3.10 or 1.3.11 it may be worthwhile to try and downgrade to 1.3.8 benqesupport.blob.core.windows.net/esupport/LCD%20MONITOR/Software/Palette%20Master%20Element/Palette%20Master%20Element_Win_V1.3.8_Windows.zip

Viewing the prints with a matching light source makes sense. Great tip. But as a wedding photographer I can’t expect my clients to be going out purchasing these d65 lamps/lights to wow their wedding album. Any advise on how to deal it from a client perspective? Or should we just make a disclaimer to our clients colour will carry depending on their light source?

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

The point of matching color is for us creative only and not necessary for the client. The goal is to control the output on our end. When it reach the client hand, well, there's not much that you can do at that point. The thing is making sure everything looks good on your end. Color will shift slightly depending on the lighting that they view their prints but that is ok. I would not worry too much about it or even give a disclaimer unless they come back to you with a feedback about color. But I'll tell you that 95% would not mention anything like that. When it comes to the 5% then yes give them the disclaimer.

@johnnylay93

3 жыл бұрын

@@ArtIsRight thanks for the reply. I guess Art is right!! Haha. Can’t control the clients end. With that said not like I ever got any feedback on my albums about colour. I pulled the trigger and order a SW271 to replace my decade old Asus PA24Q. Will be my daily drive between to laptops. Mac and Windows. Any tips on assigning a shortcut to the puk for easy switching (PBP)?

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

You can watch this video for hotkey puck tutorial kzread.info/dash/bejne/Yp-q19Sof8Sng6g.html I would just use it in singular mode and not PBP or PIP, it is really not that practical for daily use. Just watch this before you calibrate kzread.info/dash/bejne/aqaetNGClZOTndI.html

Art, just new here (expect more likes from Victoria in Australia). I have a Benq SW271 and a Spyderx pro. Do you have any videos or comments on doing one profile for the screen, and another profile to use when printing, and if so, what changes would you make from one to another. Thanks.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Russell, Welcome from halfway around the world! So this is really dependent on your printing environment, labs that you use, what you are used to etc. Personally for me the best recommendation is to calibrate the display white point to D65 and stick with that for all of the editing. The key here is to use a 6500K light bulb to view the print to get matching or close to matching results. If you used to printing in D50 or D55 then you can calibrate your display to that but what you have to do as well is get a light blub with the matching temperature to view the prints. And if you do that the use Calibration D65 and Calibration 2 D50 or D55 and you can follow nay of my guides on Palette Master Element just change the white point either D50 or D55 for prints. But to best honest with you and the best thing to keep your life simple is to just stick with D65. It works for me for more than 20 years doing prints now.

@russellspence916

3 жыл бұрын

Art, thanks for this reply, all for keeping it simple.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

:)

Hello again: Am running a Lenovo Legion Y530 15-8300H. Calibrated a fair number of times and it worked well. Then suddenly it lost contact. The i1Display is using the factory cord. Have tried both USBs on the monitor. The i! is not in the startup folder. Should it be? When I plug it in the recognized chirp sounds and is immediately followed by the "removed" chirp. Trust there is a solution. Thanks, Ted

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

If you hear the removed chirp, then something is going on. It should just be recognized sound and that it. Removal sound should not happen until you reconnection.

So I just purchased the PD3220U and I’m finding that it is a very dim / dark display in comparison to the LG UltraFine 27” - is there any calibration settings you can recommend? I turned on “user” mode and I also enabled dynamic contrast, and it’s somewhat acceptable, but it’s still nowhere near as bright as my MacBook Pro’s screen or the LG 27” UltraFine.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Are you calibrating your display? What is the luminance range that you are using? If you are running all of the displays at max brightness, PD3220U is rated at 300 nits where as the LG UltraFine 27" is rated at 500 nits. So there are some differences there. As far as color mode, I would use the default Display P3 color mode and see how that looks. And for clarification, when you say brightness are you just looking at how bright the display is, or there are other matrix or reference that you are factoring in when viewing the display. One more thing that you need to remember too is that the LG UltraFine and MacBook Pro screens are glossy, by nature these glossy screen will visually show more vivid color compared to the matte display on the PD3220U. This is just the nature of these displays coating.

@5urg3x

3 жыл бұрын

@@ArtIsRight It's advertised at 300 nits but when measuring it with a colorimeter, even in HDR mode, I only get 275. In P3 mode it's 225 with brightness maxed out. I think it's just a dark display, meant to be used in a dark room. P3 mode has the best color accuracy but the brightness is just unacceptably low. I decided to return it to B&H. It's a shame because everything else about this display is amazing, including the display pilot software. Way better than what LG has for the UltraFine (which is nothing basically!).

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

It depends on what you are doing with it, using it in a darkroom or not the brightness calibration should never be relative to the environment. If you are using it for photo editing for even video work at REC 709 the brightness range is good. If you are using it for HDR content consumption then that is another story, that is a side use of the display and not its primary function. I hear where you are coming from but at the end of the day, it comes down to matching the type of creative that the display is design for with what you are planning to do with it. Because for most creative, there's really no point having a display that peaks beyond 200 nits, unless you are mastering in HDR, to which it would be better if you get the Apple XDR, Sony mastering monitor or one made by Flanders Scientific.

@5urg3x

3 жыл бұрын

@@ArtIsRight I am looking for a monitor that can do HDR video editing really, and also causal HDR gaming (I don’t need higher than 60Hz). I don’t think BenQ really offers anything in this category, unfortunately. The sad thing is that the LG 27” 5K is amazing, it does everything except HDR, even though it’s a very bright display. I think Apple and LG did this on purpose, since all the other LG displays do HDR. The Apple display is ridiculously priced, plus it doesn’t work at all on Windows. There’s a few more options I’m going to try, there’s an Asus ProArt at 32” that does 1000 nits in HDR mode and has thunderbolt and is 4K resolution, and then I think Dell has one that I need to look at too, I forgot the model number.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah those might be a better fit for you. A few things to note about HDR display is that even though the display support HDR that is for play back only. Editing in HDR still lack software and hardware support. To do HDR editing with out guessing you need an AJA either Box or card here www.aja.com/solutions/hdr What you will do then with the card is use it for HDR output and editing or if you are on a laptop then you need the box, signal out from your computer to the box and then the box to the display. It is not as simple as getting a HDR supported display with high luminance and you can edit HDR directly, this is something that most, if not all, manufacture does not tell you. Good luck.

When calibrating something like a 2020 MacBook, is the difference more subtle, or is it drastic? Is there a big shift in whites?

@ArtIsRight

Жыл бұрын

You'll see the display become a bit warmer compared the factory default calibration.

@Genv6

Жыл бұрын

@@ArtIsRight I used a spider elite today and it seemed to go purple/magenta... After using it all day, I'm kinda used to it now.

@ArtIsRight

Жыл бұрын

I would depend on how bad the tint is.

@Genv6

Жыл бұрын

@@ArtIsRight My original Spyder X ended up being defective. I did an exchange with it. Calibration with the new one yielded excellent neutral white!

Hi, I have sw240 Windows 10 ,nvidia GeForce 1660, Display Port cable. My personal presets after PM calibration are 1- adobeRGB 2- sRGB . I would like to calibrate the display profile P3, I tried but the final result was, not passed. can you help me please?

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

What version of PME are you running?

@K.JD66

3 жыл бұрын

ArtIsRight V1.3.11

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Try downgrading to 1.3.10 benqesupport.blob.core.windows.net/esupport/LCD%20MONITOR/Software/Palette%20Master%20Element/Palette%20Master%20Element_Win_V1.3.10_Windows.zip

@K.JD66

3 жыл бұрын

ArtIsRight just dome some time ago not passed . Now I disinstalld the nvidia drivers and I’ll install the drivers (studio version) . Than I Will make a new test. Just to know, which settings? Display P3 , Luminance 120, not gamma 2.2 but RGB 2.2 or ? Black absulute or relative? Lut 16 , large. Thanks

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

Yes studio driver for sure. L120 is fine, Gamma you can use 2.2 or 2.4 for video. Black I recommend Relative, it scales better. You can try either 16 BIT or Matrix, either one should do. Start with the former and if it fails then go to the latter. Hope this helps :)

Palette master elements suck so bad! It wont even boot up on win10... breaks my heart.

@ArtIsRight

3 жыл бұрын

This is rare, trouble shooting is required. If you are inclined to do A/B Testing by installing PME and hooking up the BenQ to another machine and see if the software runs. The fact that it does not run at all is not necessary a bug or the fact that the software suck, there could be elements that conflict with the software on the individual system.