I Love it, using it for month now! None issue giving slack. Actually way smoother than with the others I used

I bought the smart 2.0 based on this review and love it!! I came off belaying just with a tube, and may have abseiled my partner somewhat too swiftly on the first one but learned to use the smart well as soon as the second belayed route. You really have a great feel for the speed you let the climber down. And it gives slack really intuitively and well. And feels 100% safe when the climber falls! No complaints and can 100% recommend. Especially when comparing the price to the clickups and other autotubers available!

Been using the smart 1.0 for a few months. I just really like the simpleness of the design. For belaying, it gets easier if you dynamic belay. Less moving parts = less chance of something breaking

I've only been climbing for a year and bought a Smart 2.0 a few months ago and the more I use it the more I like it. Giving rope is finicky if you don't watch the Mammut video and try to use as if it's an ATC. Just keep your break hand thumb hooked under the device and lift up and forward while feeding slack with the other hand. Don't let go of the device with the break hand and try feeding from the side with your hand at hip level, it’s not designed that way and will lock up. I try to maintain a 'beginners mind' and seek instructions from the designers of the equipment rather than assuming I know how to use a device based on my experience with other devices which biases my intuition. Eating with a knife and fork isn't intuitive but works very well once you get the hang of it. Some very experienced climbers have told me I'm using the Smart incorrectly, but I just ask them if they had watched the Mammut video (they never have).

my favorite belay device! Tip for better lowering: Instead of using your thumb or hand to lift up the device from the end handle, hold the device like a glass and gently tilt it as if you were drinking, hope that makes sense

I love my smart 2. Yes it took a a little bit of getting used to but giving slack. lowering a climber was a bit more tricky but soon got to grips with it.

Used the original smart for years now and I’ve always liked it. Like anything, you get used to it. Honestly it took me an hour or so of getting used to it, but haven’t used an atc since. Extra peace of mind is always nice where safety is concerned.

I have 2 smart alpines and love them and use them for everything but aid climbing. Never had issues with them and find it better and safer for abseling then a atc!

@JohnSmith-ed1sr

3 жыл бұрын

How is it safer for rapping then an Atc it’s identical

@rodrigormotta

3 жыл бұрын

@@JohnSmith-ed1sr It is no identical to an atc. The smart is a locking device. The atc is not. I've used both devices for many years and i can tell you 100% the smart let's you get away with a lot more than an atc would. It is not a gri gri but it is a lot closer to a gri gri funtionality that to an atc.

Great, informative review; thanks! Has anyone used one of these for ice climbing? How does is feed and feel when the rope is iced up? My GriGri locked up lots the last time out, looking for a better experience.

Don't forget that Mammut also makes the Smart Alpine, which I quite enjoy using every time I belay sport ou twin rope climber, that can be used with twin rope and to belay from an anchor like the atc-guide and the petzl reverso.

I have found that the GriGri twists my rope and chews it up. I really like my Smart 2.0 and have been using it for about 6 months now. It is my preference for lead belay because once you use it a few times I found I can give slack faster for a clip than I can with other devices I have used

Haven’t used the Smart 2.0 yet, but it would have an undocumented direct Belay mode for multipitch although it can’t do regular abseil otherwise than a counterbalance or Reepschnur rap. The only thing fiddly, is the shape of the ideal carabiner - I found that Climbing Technology’s CONCEPT family of carabiners to have a curvature in the basket most ideal for the Smart 1.0, and would be the same for 2.0.

I’ve been using this device since july 2018 and honestly if there’s any grab in the device it’s because of user error. Once you get acclimated to it, the device will never let you down.

@santi_super_stunts2573

2 ай бұрын

That’s the issue it never lets me down, it keeps Ahold of the rope 😂

thanks matt, you always gives the best advice! :)

I wish you had made more comparison of the Smart to the Megajul (or Jul 2), instead of the Grigri. I haven't used the Smart, it does seem to have more common to the Megajul than the Grigri, both of which I have used.

I started belaying with an ATC and belay now for over 2 years with a GriGri. I can olny agree with you, that belaying with the smart/smart 2.0 is a little bit "fiddley", but I think that my oppinion might change with more practice on the smart. All in all I wourld say the Smart 2.0 ist a great sport climbing belay device, which is for its funtionality very affordable

I really loved this review. I’m glad you where very honest and weren’t just plugging a product. I have to agree, it’s great for sport-climbing but not really a lot else. For me, I’ll stick with my Wild Country Pro Guide Lite; it’s doesn’t do anything the best but it does everything pretty dang well.

@z1522

2 ай бұрын

Actually fine for trad leads as well, no reasons aside from bulk, but the MegaJul is smaller, steel, and works on the same principles - is suitable for two rope rappels, the only issue is its feeding is a lot more of an issue.

What's your longer term review of the click-up?

Will you be reviewing/showing the Evolv Phantom anytime soon (Daniel Woods/Evolv collaboration)?

I absolutly love my smart! since I've got it, using only that. so much better than Grigri :)

Dont forget about the Mammut Smart Alpine if you want to rappel or belay on double ropes.

I just got a smart 2.0 about 2 months ago. You're absolutely correct that it is a bit difficult to use at first, the main issue being it's tendency to grab at inopportune moments. However, my wife and I have found that with a bit of practice it becomes quite natural to use. The trick is finding a good technique for pushing the rope through with the brake hand. The first thing we did was remove the 'smarter' attachment (more of a hindrance than a help). We have also found that avoiding using the thumb lever makes it much safer. Overall, it's a great device!

@todd92371

5 жыл бұрын

Hello, was wondering about your mention of "avoiding using the thumb lever." Do you just tilt the whole device for belaying? I am interested in this device and was wondering if you tilt it like you would the Black Diamond Pilot.

Once you get used to it this is the best belay device on the market. Been using to 2.0 since it came out and I can’t ever see using a grigri again.

Smart 2.0 is easily my favorite lead belay device, though I have to say the handle isn’t as nice as with the original Smart. To say this is fiddly is to forget what every device feels until used to. The Jul line bites far harder whereas the GriGri is extremely specific and the ClickUp locks with a slow belayer and the Pilot has a more specific angle and even ATCs and similar all require good technique to avoid shorts. Instead, I find the Smart and 2.0 to work with a wider range of ropes than any other assisted device as well as with a wider range of carabiners versus all other tubular assisted devices. Further, the brake is strong enough to make project belaying easy, and if necessary the brake will absolutely hold (thrown overhands on the brake rope and warmed my hands as the climber rests with no slippage, for instance). Plus, for the cost I have a gym and outdoor specific Smart 2.0 to avoid having to repack, and my gym one is vibrant purple to easily see. Would also recommend the Bionic for multipitch and rappels.

I'd really love to hear what you think about the Austrialpin Fish! I found it a lot smoother than the Smart 1

@niikon

3 ай бұрын

Fish is officially only compatible with the included carabiner - deal breaker.

Great review

Older video, but are there different carabiners that work well or badly with the 2.0? Mammut recommends the Smart HMS, but they don't say to only use that biner... what about Edelrid HMS Bulletproof or Mammut Bionic? Do they work?

Can you use this device while jumaring instead of a grigri?

I have the smart 2 Alpine and use it in all areas and find it just as good to abseil on as anything else out there - in winter use its unparalleled in my view for use with big mitts/thick gloves. For lower-off's I find either: - 1. Wedging my elbow into my hip then using my arm/hand as a pivot allows the smoothest lower-off 2. Dropping the rope over the side of the unit much like you do on a GRi-Gri - just be aware that this might wear the unit and the ropes. There are only 2 gripes I have: - 1. Is the size (..because I have the Alpine version) in comparison to an ATC/Reverso/traditional stitch-plate its large but that accepted I think they are brilliant and using with double ropes is a blast too (Alpine -version), paying rope out of one side only when needed is such a doddle. When using the Smart in guide mode on an anchor it smashes the Reverso and lower off's in this mode are the easiest I've come accross 2. Every now and again I find when threading the rope into the unit (particularly on smaller diameter ropes) the bight can end up heading out of the side of the unit/into the next chamber , I think this is more user error as I don't know of anyone else reporting this, its not a danger as you cant thread the karabiner properly when it does this. 9/10 for me and is always in my kit!

I've been using the Smart 2.0 for almost 2 months now. One of my first belay devices was the Jul from Edelrid and I must say that they look and feel a lot tlike he same (as almost all the tubular-derived device), so I already knew how to use it, or at least it felt instinctive. This said I also must underline that it felt different at the beginning, in particular, as Matt said, it felt really grumpy, like I was trying to give some rope and it would refuse. The problem was not giving a lot of rope like in case of clipping, but more trying to balance the device and find a way to give a little bit of rope during some movements without blocking the blocking mechanism (sorry for the pun). It was just a mere matter of time: after litteraly 3 or 4 belays I could already tell how to give some rope without pushing my thump and opening the blocking device when not needed. One more thing regarding the descent: instead of using your thump to loosen the device, what I found best (for me) is to grab it with my left and and rotating slowly around the karabiner. This allows to have more control and not riskying yo open the device too much. The only downside is that it will make your rope make more friction on the karabiner wearing this out much faster. One last thing just to mention it: I've bought also the Smarter, but it wasn't really helpful, on the contrary it felt bulky. I haven't tried to let some beginners try though. Vote: 8/10. When you get used to it it's really good, and it feels a lot safe: it block the rope almost instantaneously.

@dailyclimbing

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the great response. It sounds like we had a similar experience with it. Practice makes perfect I guess!

@kevingeiger1140

5 жыл бұрын

How did you like it versus the jul? Better?

The pictogram clearly shows the correct brake hand position, which is pretty important for both easier feeding, with the thumb lifting the lever arm, as well as lowering, the brake hand always in position and never as shown at 1:10.

Abseiling is not the best (also you need the Smart Alpin version, the one shown in the video only fits one rope, pretty useless if you want to retrieve your rope from below) but it works and it has the advantage, that you cant "fall through", it'll always catch you if you stop activly absieling! It gets very hot though, consider this and dont directly touch after the descend.

The Smarter doesn't prevent the rope from being lifted up. It increases the separation between the rope going in and out so that it maintains an angle for auto-blocking.

These are on sale at REI right now

How does it compare to the Jul? cuz as far as i know the Jul is lighter and effectively does the same thing...

If you like the Smart you should try the Salewa Ergo. In m’y opinion more easy to use.

Hey great video, how does it compare to Black Diamond ATC device? Cheers.

@RebelBoringly

5 жыл бұрын

Diego Naranjo I’m wondering the same thing. How it compares to BD’s ATC Pilot which I have and love if I’m not using my GriGri and the CT’s Click-up/+.

I've spent som time sportclimbing and top roping with it and it's easy to recommend it. It's great but not my favorite for leading (clickup wins). It's great but not my favorite for top rope indoors (cinch wins). So in summary: great + great + cheap = recommend

@olivia4394

5 жыл бұрын

How is the click up for giving slack on lead?

How does it compare with the BlackDiamond ATC Pilot? They are almost the same and exactly the same price. EpicTv never metioned it before that I know of

@Cacovangor

5 жыл бұрын

Out of the main tubular assisted braking devices, I found the Pilot to be the least intuitive to belay with of tubular assist devices due to the tall profile and small lip. After a brake, the device needs more force to disengage which means if the climber ever pulls enough slack to engage then preventing a hard short is more difficult furthered by the device moving out of the hand. Plus, the hard plastic sound is simply not inspiring.

It's my favorite device!

Great review sir.

I like everything apart from lowering with this. The lowering action is way too sensitive.

Please put the Salewa Ergo Belay System to the test. I'd love to know what you think of it... also regarding that Black Diamond copied it with their ATC Pilot (plagiarism...?)🕵️‍♂️

@HendrikRaabe

5 жыл бұрын

So true. They chose a great device to copy though :D

How does it comparew to the first version, why should I "upgrade"?

@rzwerlein

5 жыл бұрын

Inoubliable Douleur that was covered...

@leepl555

5 жыл бұрын

Significantly improved braking.

@jimmypi9150

5 жыл бұрын

i use the smart 1.0 myself for over a year now and tried the smart 2.0 recently. imho giving and taking rope is smoother with the smart 2 but i'm not a fan of the shorter handle. for me lowering a climber doesnt feel as smooth and controlled with the new smart but nothing too bad.

@prusikmallorca

5 жыл бұрын

I have version 1 and 2. 1 is more dynamic and smooth. 2 have a stronger breaking force and ergonomic. I prefer the first version by far. Save the money.

@uEffects123

5 жыл бұрын

The 2.0 is way smoother and more efficient in breaking, and even decreases "hick ups" you sometime have with the 1.0. So overall improvement, one thing i noticed especially, is the 1.0 kind of slipping a little bit if the climber and the belayer are both hanging in the air (eg after a fall), this doesnt happen in the 2.0 anymore. Unloading is also way smoother and better controllable in the 2.0. Should you upgrade? Not necessarily if you`re happy with 1.0. Should you buy the 2.0 if you dont have a smart already? Definitely!

1:07 "never ever let go of the dead rope" ...

@SuperSaiyanPhysique

5 жыл бұрын

I guess/hope his other hand is on the rope? :D

you know what does take a long time to get the hang of...the grigri.

@Cacovangor

5 жыл бұрын

pat ob In absolute agreement that the grigri takes far more specific knowledge to use safely and effectively for lead belay than any assisted brake device which is tubular rather than active. Plus, there is little transfer of belaying techniques from the grigri to any non active assisted device, whereas most people using a tubular device can jump between various assisted and unassisted devices with little issue other than identifying the sweet spot for lowering on them.

@50StichesSteel

4 жыл бұрын

If it's just belaying, this is the way to go. If you want one device to do multiple jobs well, it's still hard to beat a Gri Gri. It's very nice to have 1 thing that can do many things no matter what you're doing. Belay, rappel, progress capture, ascending, etc whatever your mind can get creative with doing. If I was just mainly worrying about belaying, then I would want this device.

I’ve used the smart 1.0 for over a year and I love it. It took some time to learn (a few hours to get the hang of it) but now I preffer it over a grigri for example as I find it easier to use and lighter. It id also easier to thread than the grigri which decreased the risk of doing it wrong. However I would like to point out that the way of giving out slack in this video is not perfect. Personally I move the hand down on the brake rope, then move it up (creating slack) and push up the device to dengage the locking function and then you pull out the slack. Doing it like this instead of letting the rope run through your hand makes it safer as if a fall where to happen you got a firm grip on the rope

I just used the first SMART shortly, because i hated it! It would be interesting if the annoying diasdvantages have been fixed. A in dept side by side comparison is needed. My "problems" with the first Smart: 1.) The handle where the break side of the rope runs over: the rope jumps out too easy. And yes, i was already holding the device sideways. 2.) lowering is really sh*t! When the climber sits in the rope after topping, and you slowly and carefully lift up the handle to release the blocking... and then sufddently the rope runs through like hell. There is nothing it between! Just fully breaking and the next nanometer lifting the handle the rope rushes through. Which makes you instantly go up those nanometers which make the climber stop in the middle of the lowering. VERY bumpy. I don't know it this gets better with time and practise, but this was real shit! Another disadvantage: You have to use a certain carabiner or a carabiner with similyr geometry and thickness for the device to work properly. This carabiner comes with the package (making it unnecessarily more expensive if you just can't use one of your many other carabiners or your favorite belay carabiner. The Jul^2 also comes with a package, but with the carabiner with this little clip which prevents the carabiner from rotating. VERY usefull! Comparing this with the Jul^2 i don't know why I or anyone else should go for this Smart 2.0. The Jul^2 in package with carabiner is also very cheap, works equally if not better, comes as a steel version instead of aluminium, meaning it is indestructible and still not heavy, package with the alu carabiner with the handle or the bruce steel carabiner with the handle. The steel version of the carabiner is heavier of course. But you don't carry a Jul^2 up alpine walls, same with any other kind of "sport climbing belay devices". Use a Plate or just a munters hitch. Sport climbing something like the Grigri, Click Up, MegaJul, Jul^2 or any other. --> So, does the issues with the second Smart have been fixed compared to the first one? How does it "feel"? What Matt said here in the video makes me think, that issue with the little space between blocking and lowering is still not solved. But maybe it is a little bit better than with the old one. Concluding for me: I know how to use it, but I'm happy that I don't have to. If someone should test a belay device and give its opinion, Matt or anyone: please test the Wild Country Revo!

Isn't he holding the smart at 1:13 in a way that the manual of mammut forbidds? And if so, why is it forbidden?

@devnull737

11 ай бұрын

You are correct, the manual expressly forbids holding the device this way (big giant X). However many of the comments mention lowering a climber this way (as does Matt in this video). Ultimately it is your device to use as you wish. I just purchased my Smart and will try the correct way first. My guess (and it is just a guess) is that if one's guide hand encloses the Smart when lowering, then in a panic situation such as the climber dropping too quickly, the belayer will instinctively grab tighter, causing the device to tilt up, which will deck said climber if brake rope is not held solidly. The same issue presents itself with the grigri, when lowering via handle. Instinctive reaction is to tighten grip on handle and pull harder, but that will drop climber faster. This is why the GriGri+ has anti-panic mode. In BOTH cases, the correct way to bail out of a panic situation is to train yourself to let go with your guide hand and match your hands on the brake strand. Both GriGri and Smart will automatically lock as-designed in that scenario.

i like the fish more because there is a handle like the grigri, this doesnt, its simply better for heavier climbers than an atc/reverso, for someone lighter maybe the atc/reverso is the best, and grigri is most likely safe

I'm pretty sure you can't abseil properly with this one - that's why Mammut actually made the Smart Alpine.

I have the Mammut alpine and never use it because of the chance it locks up on the carabiner. Ive had it happen several times and narrowly avoided serious injury because of it. Its not worth the chance, Ill just use a gri gri if i need it.

@uEffects123

5 жыл бұрын

Have the alpine, never had an issue when usin it correctly :)

@carlsonfamily2020

5 жыл бұрын

It needs to be used correctly, if misused it will do as you said

Mammut Smart version 1 is the best belay on the market. IMHO better than version 2. V1 is more dynamic and smooth. V2 have a stronger breaking force, better materials and ergonomically improved. I prefer the first version. Save the money if you have the V1. Smart1 > Smart2 > Cinch 1 > Eddy > Matik > Grigri 1 or 2 > Micro Jul 1 > Click-up > Sum Maybe ATC Pilot from Black Diamond is the best for sport climbing, but still didn't try yet, I hope in the next week. And Giga Jul the best all-around belay device, but still didn't try yet. Edit: Maybe if usually belay heavier climbers than you, better V2. If not and usually you belay climbers lighter than you, better V1.

@uEffects123

5 жыл бұрын

I find the V2 way smoother and dynamic, the V1 sometimes has some "hick ups" - the transition between breaking/releasing is less comfortable. I'd say keep the V1 if you have it, but if you buy a new one, i'd go for the 2.0!

@Cacovangor

5 жыл бұрын

I was disappointed with the harder brake of the 2.0 after losing my original, but found the brake was less sporadic between carabiners and does not have a sticking point for lowering as well as functioning better for people projecting by braking the rope entirely.

@cu35468

5 жыл бұрын

Agree. "Mammut Smart version 1 is the best belay on the market."

The smarter does NOT prevent lifting the break hand!! It just makes the Smart 2.0 stop the rope even if it is held above the usually safe zone. This should never be done though, since that is extremely bad practice

“Mar-moot”? Never knew how it was pronounced

@Chitario

3 жыл бұрын

Nope. Its German, you pronounce it Mamm-ut A short "u", and without the "r" Strong ponounciation on the "a"

Wanna knew what's new with the 2.0? They doubled the price... :(

Yes, never gri gri.

Also whoever’s belaying at 5:23 needs to learn pbus

@jordannightingale8286

5 жыл бұрын

What's pbus

@confettihunterminus1

5 жыл бұрын

Jordan Nightingale It stands for Pull Break Under Slide. It’s a belay method

Doesn't do the product justtice. Clearly they have never used such a device from the way they give slack and lower the climber. Needs to watch Mammut's videos on using the device. Update: Unfortunately there aren't many videos on how to use it, not even from Mammut, but there is at least one. Hopefully after this video, the device gains more market share.

@84h8uh

5 жыл бұрын

There's a very good video by the DAV (german alpine club), unfortunately it's only in german. kzread.info/dash/bejne/qmqnxqiEd7TWYZs.html

@zanevanlange7097

5 жыл бұрын

Here's a nice simple English version kzread.info/dash/bejne/kWiap5t7aJPQpdI.html

Atc pilot

First

I broke like 10 already. not recommended.