Edelrid Giga Jul Review

Here it finally is the review of the Edelrid Giga Jul, which out of all the belay devises I've reviewed, this is in my option the most versatile belay devise. Edelrid has actually made a belay devise that combines a fully functional guide style tubular devise with an assisted breaking devise. A full two in one contraption! The devise for everyone from alpine climbers to single pitch rock climbers!

Пікірлер: 134

  • @dipolifom
    @dipolifom3 жыл бұрын

    That was the best jul compare I've seen so far. Do you have any more information now, a year later on the teeth? If you say that it wont harm the rope more, I would definitely buy one after your video.

  • @Ricardoav
    @Ricardoav2 жыл бұрын

    That is, by far, the best review i´ve found. Thanks. I'm wondering what you think of it now, almost three years later. I'm new to climbing and building up my kit, so versatility is very important. is it still a 10/10? it is strange how hard it is to find more content about the giga jul online. It is pretty much all about the MegaJul. Thank you for your review, it has pretty much made up my mind.

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the complement, I still think it's the most versatile device on the market now, I still don't like the teeth they added to the breaking side but it doesn't seem to mess up the ropes as much as I thought it would. I just kind of wish they would make one without the teeth and then It would be perfect!

  • @sylvainvanier4300
    @sylvainvanier43005 жыл бұрын

    Excellent thorough review Ryan! I have the Mega Jul and I only paid attention to the Giga Jul. Your review highlighted the shortcomings I have experienced with the Mega Jul in comparison to the improvements upon that device. I'll be picking one up and retiring my other devices (Not my 1st gen GriGri for Gym climbing). Thank you!

  • @4-SeasonNature
    @4-SeasonNature3 жыл бұрын

    The most detailed review of the Giga Jul I have watched. Thanks for sharing. I have an ATC Guide and a Grigri +. I just bought a Giga Jul which basically combines the features of both the ATC and the Grigri+.

  • @RafonRafs15
    @RafonRafs153 жыл бұрын

    Best review for the giga jul! Just bought one! Thanx Ryan

  • @katcus
    @katcus8 ай бұрын

    So i've been looking for a video that really shows how to use this device since i mainly climb indoor at the moment and you have shown how to use it really well. Definitely used your video to help explain to my friend the difference between the Gigajul and a Grigri/ATC. Thank you for showing how to use in different scenarios in such great detail.

  • @Aikijim2007
    @Aikijim20074 жыл бұрын

    Great review. Very comprehensive. Well done and thanks.

  • @mastheadmike
    @mastheadmike Жыл бұрын

    Great video. Really loved the bonus context of the mega vs giga! Thanks so much.

  • @BryceU
    @BryceU2 жыл бұрын

    Awesome tutorial and explanation of the device. Much appreciated!

  • @tobywalker4297
    @tobywalker42975 ай бұрын

    Amazing Review! I was struggling to decide which one to go for and this really helped me out

  • @kevinvella4585
    @kevinvella45852 жыл бұрын

    Great review of a great device. watched this before actually purchasing and you covered every aspect i needed to know about, other than maybe rappelling on auto arrest mode(correct me if I'm wrong). most if not all reviews just explained its use without actually using a rope to demonstrate, you explained with and without rope. brilliant, well done, cheers.👍

  • @go-explore
    @go-explore Жыл бұрын

    Best info on this giga iv found! Awesome work!

  • @AW-po7jr
    @AW-po7jr3 жыл бұрын

    Very helpful, thank you very much! I ordered the gigajul

  • @ivobecker5748
    @ivobecker57484 жыл бұрын

    Amazing review🔥

  • @vinrenu1389
    @vinrenu13894 жыл бұрын

    Nice Review, thank you! I was thinking about getting a Mega Jul, but I think I will buy the Giga instead now.

  • @DaanVerhaar
    @DaanVerhaar3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for sharing, very informative and clearly explained! (a beginner).

  • @anthonymaraldo5406
    @anthonymaraldo54064 жыл бұрын

    Very comprehensive. I like it!

  • @tomasztytak628
    @tomasztytak6282 жыл бұрын

    Thank's buddy, awesome review!

  • @user-kd4ev6px5q
    @user-kd4ev6px5q9 ай бұрын

    Great review, thanks so much. You convinced me to get it as I never totally trust the belayers when they use the reverso and this seems to guarantee extra safety if they leave the rope

  • @korbendallas1210
    @korbendallas12102 жыл бұрын

    Outstanding review

  • @prusikmallorca
    @prusikmallorca5 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much for the super review. I have the Mammut smart and I am super happy for sport routes and the Mammut smart Alpine version but is not an All around, I am not happy for multi-pitch, I saw the Click-up alpine up and I think the Click-up is better than the Smart alpine, but I think the Giga Jul is the best by far, I will buy for sure in the future. Hopefully, you can make a review of the Click-up alpine up for comparing with the Giga Jul. Thanks again, very good video and Channel. ;)

  • @markharrison8631
    @markharrison86312 жыл бұрын

    Excellent review

  • @ssaw3008
    @ssaw30083 жыл бұрын

    awesome explanation dude!

  • @christebeau
    @christebeau8 ай бұрын

    Thanks for the wonderful review! Picked one up the other day. Haven't taken it out to the craig yet, but after messing with systems at my house I've found belaying in guide mode from up top with two ropes to have a bit more friction than I like when taking in slack (compared to an atc).Was able to cut down the friction by using a thicker carabiner, but even so it took more energy then I care to use. Something to consider with the two rope setup.

  • @mastheadmike

    @mastheadmike

    8 ай бұрын

    I have had mine about 9 months and use it weekly often between it or a grigri in my gym. I found Friction generated by this device is super dependent on the shape of the carabiner too! I do love it though - definitely a do it all sort of item.

  • @just_a_guy13
    @just_a_guy13 Жыл бұрын

    Thanks for this. I'm new and just got it to learn on. I plan to use it as a atc until I'm comfortable in knowing how to belay but then want an assistant break so buy one get 2 lol great review.

  • @ldt336
    @ldt3364 жыл бұрын

    I think the Giga Jul is a great device and makes some good improvements over the Mega Jul. My only remaining complaints are that it's quite a bit heavier than other tube style devices or the Mega Jul and that it takes some fiddling and re-threading of the rope when switching from belaying your partner from above (manual mode) to belaying them on lead in assisted braking mode. Overall, I'm willing to live with these drawbacks for the other benefits the device provides but on the limited occasions that I really want to go fast and light and am less likely to be catching lead whippers, I'd go for a Reverso.

  • @qis3401
    @qis3401 Жыл бұрын

    Very great review! thx!

  • @jackfisher9833
    @jackfisher98332 жыл бұрын

    Great review. Thanks for this.. I have atc, and I was about to buy grigri + but maybe not :) I think this device will be better for me as I dont trust grigri's enclosed mechanical design.

  • @fredred476
    @fredred4762 жыл бұрын

    That was an excellent review, thanks. I think I'm going to get one, but not definite yet. The only thing that I find annoying is that you have to be in manual mode to use it in guide mode/belay from above. This means that if you are swapping leads you have to unclip the rope, then flick the slider across, then re-thread the rope, before attaching to the harness for the lead belay. I think that wouldn't be possible with gloves on if winter climbing, and would increase chance of dropping device. Perhaps I have misunderstood things though?

  • @ryansmifh
    @ryansmifh4 жыл бұрын

    best review of the year and that’s me 3 months late. something about ryan’s and climbing... hahaaha

  • @remblankenburgh
    @remblankenburgh3 жыл бұрын

    Great review, thanks! I recently purchased a Giga Jul and I really like the device, for the very reasons you mentioned. However, i found one major drawback: it won't work well with thick (> 10 mm) or fluffy ropes that i find in my climbing gym for top roping, since the friction makes taking or giving rope quite an ordeal. Therefore i decided to buy a Mammut Smart 2.0 for use at the gym in addition. My own rope is 9.7 mm though and it works great with the Giga Jul.

  • @mastheadmike

    @mastheadmike

    Жыл бұрын

    I agree! Finally had a chance to use this with the gym ropes today and struggled to efficiently feed slack on lead with their thicker fuzzy ropes. I’ll keep using the grigri for that purpose - but while playing around it I did see the tremendous list of advantages and am excited to have it on my rack.

  • @TheMegaMrMe

    @TheMegaMrMe

    Жыл бұрын

    This is the comment I was searching for. I also ended up buying a smart 2.0 for those fluffy ropes at the gym

  • @khuang3563
    @khuang35635 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for the detailed review! I am compelled to get one now. On a side note, you mention Climbing Technology Click-Up in the video, which I am a huge fan of. I wonder if you would look into its counterpart Alpine-Up

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    5 жыл бұрын

    Ya, I do plan on doing a review of the Alpine up and the Click up as soon as I get my hands on them, I really haven't used them to much outside of one time at the gym when I could borrow one from a dude so I'm really interested to see what they are like in a variety of circumstances. Thanks for watching!

  • @TheMichealaw

    @TheMichealaw

    5 жыл бұрын

    looking forward

  • @johnliungman1333
    @johnliungman13334 жыл бұрын

    Hi! Thanks for the thorough review. I have been looking for this type of device, but was unimpressed by the Megajul, Smart, and Alpine Clickup. Too many downsides compared to my Pivot. The Gigajul looks awesome, though. 2 questions for you: 1) how particular is it when it comes to required carabiner? And 2) how well does lowering a second in guide mode work. The DMM Pivot excels here, while for example the Smart does not. Again, great work!

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    4 жыл бұрын

    Thanks man, as far as I seen it doesn't really matter what carabiner you use as long as it is a "pair" shaped carabiner, a "D" shaped one wouldn't allow the assisted breaking to take full effect. While lowering in guide mode: If you do it the older method then it's just as annoying as any other devise, and it doesn't have the pivoting ring like on the pivot, however if you use the LSD method ex. kzread.info/dash/bejne/rKxsrLJthLWwnLA.html then the devise works really well when you have to lower a climber in guide mode. Thanks for watching!

  • @ErmilinaLight

    @ErmilinaLight

    Жыл бұрын

    @@ryantilley9063 Thanks! Sorry, I am a beginner, why the pear shape carabiner is better in this case?

  • @DavidMartinez-sf6mn
    @DavidMartinez-sf6mn2 жыл бұрын

    Great video. Thanks

  • @drstrangelove85
    @drstrangelove855 жыл бұрын

    Thanks a lot for all the time and effort you took to make this video! Really great review! A few comments: 1.) The Giga Jul is great with thin ropes but using 10 mm ropes is not fun. If you climb outside with thin ropes that is ok but I found it impractical for gym use as the ropes in the gym are often times 10 mm and fluffy. For these kind of ropes a Jul 2 or similar is simply better. I also found that the breaking force in the assisted mode is very weak with 10 mm ropes. 2.) Interesting side note about abseiling on the Mega Jul: It is not in the user manual but you can simply turn the device around (so that the carabiner touches the non-grooved part) and abseil just fine without blocking in any direction. I'm not sure why this was never recommend by Edelrid. 3.) For some funny reason the device is cheaper in the US than it is in Germany :D Thanks for you videos. I really enjoy them!

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    5 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the additions, you brought up some good points, and thanks for watching!!

  • @leoingson

    @leoingson

    4 жыл бұрын

    Shit, not useful then. Thank for the 10mm comment!

  • @tronotratatatrono5800

    @tronotratatatrono5800

    2 жыл бұрын

    Because of taxes

  • @ArielRaskin
    @ArielRaskin2 жыл бұрын

    Great video! Thank you!

  • @user-vl7in9bd9d
    @user-vl7in9bd9d7 ай бұрын

    I am a beginner in terms of climbing but know how stuff works. Just bought the Giga Jul and am testing it now. Assisted mode works better on my somewhat older 8mm rope but still moving. My brand new 7.1m runs through it, not breaking at all. It probably works better with 8.5mm I guess. So this device only assists but does not stop completely like Grigri, right? Your presentation is among the best if not the best. Now I understand why my guide made me belaying him with a Mega Jul when I did Ice Climbing in Cody. It was my first time and pulling two ropes through that thing was exhausting! Thank you so much!

  • @yoa_king5162
    @yoa_king51622 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for the info! 👌

  • @ErmilinaLight
    @ErmilinaLight Жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the tutorial!

  • @sabindaman
    @sabindaman4 жыл бұрын

    Any update on the teeth and rope?

  • @jeremyvenetz
    @jeremyvenetz3 жыл бұрын

    thx for this awsome video! you rocks dude! @11:51 (belay from above) very helpful

  • @davidwensboposaric5498
    @davidwensboposaric54983 жыл бұрын

    Great review!, thanks for sharing. Guess what I got from Santa yesterday - yes, the Giga Jul! Have you (anyone) seen any long term disadvantages, e.g. rope wear, stange failures etc? Would be good to know what to expect and what to keep an eye on.

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hey man, so far I haven't seen any long term wear of that sort on the rope from using this device.

  • @Tito_zako
    @Tito_zako Жыл бұрын

    excellent video, thanks much!! I'm trying to find another video you make reference to on this: using the giga jul and lowering a climber from above. Could you post a link, please?

  • @derrickwilson8549
    @derrickwilson8549 Жыл бұрын

    Can you do a how to video for the Giga Jul?

  • @kevindflowers234
    @kevindflowers2344 жыл бұрын

    Hello, first of all great video, very clear and informative... I have more of a preference question I think... but could also be a versatility question I guess... I am not new to climbing but I have been out of the game for some time and I am getting back into it and looking at new and improved gear. I used to use a figure 8 descender and a normal ATC for all my rappelling and belaying needs... I am looking at getting an assisted break device and I would like your opinion on whether you would buy a GRIGRI over the giga jul, or vice versa... it seems like this would be better than a grigri because of the use of double rope, but the grigri is pretty much an industry go to for safety and yada yada... Thank you and again, well done channel.

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    4 жыл бұрын

    Hey man, thanks for the kind words, you can kind of choose whatever set up you want. A lot of people use the grigri because it's been around for a long time, the giga jul is only about a year old so it doesn't have as huge a following. If you want one belay devise to do it all then the giga jul is what you should get, you can use it in assisted breaking mode for belaying a leader while single pitch cragging, and you can easily flip it into passive belay mode to belay from above or rappel. Having the stainless steel in the main parts of wear will also insure a long lifespan of the devise even with heavy use. Many people that use a grigri also bring along another "ATC" style devise to fill out the rest of their climbing needs, so they'll just have multiple devises with them. Don't be afraid to bring more than one devise with you while you're out climbing, but the giga is as good as it gets at the moment to do everything in one. Hope this helps, thanks for watching, and happy climbing!

  • @kevindflowers234

    @kevindflowers234

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@ryantilley9063 that does help! Thank you. I will most definitely be getting multiple pieces of gear... Eventually... But for now, just easing back into climbing with some indoor and very miniscule outdoor climbing I just need a versatile work horse that I can trust not to fail... This sounds like the ticket! Thanks again and happy and safe climbing to you as well.

  • @bullfrogboss8008
    @bullfrogboss80087 ай бұрын

    7:14 smooth lowering with the mega Jul green thumb loop is very hard. Very rapid lowering. I don't recommend doing it like that. Gentle tilting the device backwards is much nicer

  • @eugenejkim
    @eugenejkim Жыл бұрын

    What do you think of the Gigajul 3 years out?

  • @ashchetum
    @ashchetum Жыл бұрын

    On the topic of slippage in the mega Jul, if you're using an edlerid HMS carabiner, they've designed their carabiners and the mega Jul to work well with eachother. And I've experienced zero slippage with the edlerid carabiner on the mega jul. But I have seen slipage with other branded locking carabiners.

  • @davidtugyi4536
    @davidtugyi45364 жыл бұрын

    Hi Ryan, awesome review! I have one question. How tiring to lower a climber in assistant breaking mode from top rope, in whole day climbing session? You mentioned the repelling with mega jul is tiring (in assistant breaking mode).

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    4 жыл бұрын

    Dávid Tugyi hey man, I don’t think it’s as tiring in an all day top rope session because it takes less energy to lower someone else than it does to lower your self. Many people use it for this and they don’t seem to be tired from it either.

  • @davidtugyi4536

    @davidtugyi4536

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@ryantilley9063 Thank you! I am ordering my Giga jul right now :)

  • @michael-lucanatt8009

    @michael-lucanatt8009

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@ryantilley9063 Hey do you have any tips on belaying on lead from below? I tried it recently this weekend and I couldn't feed it through at all without it just locking...

  • @BEASTCLUTCHER

    @BEASTCLUTCHER

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@michael-lucanatt8009 what diameter is your rope? I had some challenges with a 10.1mm rope that exceeds the range(7.1-10.0mm) of the giga jul. Using a 9.8 was much better but look forward to trying a 9.5 which should be ideal for the device

  • @alcupone6462

    @alcupone6462

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@michael-lucanatt8009 you have to pull the thumb loop fully out and keep the tension, then the device stays open and feeds pretty quickly

  • @jacobgaylord9277
    @jacobgaylord92774 жыл бұрын

    One thing you didn't clarify was whether the Giga Jul was better for rappelling in assisted braking mode and/or how well it will rappel in assisted braking mode, can you share your thoughts on this please? I have been looking for an assisted braking device that can be rappelled with (I know how to use a third hand, but just for a little extra peace of mind and simplified system). I have tried the Mega Jul Sport but had a lot of issues with the device biting too hard and not lowering smoothly; currently I use a CT Alpine Up, however it is very bulky and can be finicky to work with at the anchors. Knowing that the Mega Jul didn't work, I'm wary to bite on the Giga Jul without hearing from a Giga Jul user first. Thanks in advance for your response, and great review!

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    4 жыл бұрын

    I haven't really fully rappelled on the giga jul in an overhanging situation before but it would probably be about the same as the mega jul in that situation. It would probably cause about the same amount of strain on your shoulders too. It also will probably have something to do with what rope you're using. I've had some rope slippage on skinnier 9mm ropes before when the devise was being used in the assisted breaking position. There would defiantly be no slippage of the rope if you include a third hand in the system, but if your depending fully on the assisted breaking from the devise I would say it's just about the same as the mega jul.

  • @alcupone6462

    @alcupone6462

    3 жыл бұрын

    I had the same thoughts about the rappelling comfort and I have to say that I regret a bit my decision to buy the Gigajul. The rappelling is hard to do, bumpy, finding the smooth slide position repeats on every slight change in angle etc. Plus as I recently discovered, when you mess up the preparation of the rope and one end is too short (I know, it is not a best practice, but sometimes you don't want to pull extra 15 metres) you can do nothing about it, but with ATC, Reverso and others with third hand you can solve it by sliding one rope through while holding the second still. Also you burn your thumb in the loop, when you do longer rappell. I recommend not being lazy and using prusik instead, this is not worth the money and if I weren't using it for thin sport rope in the assisted mode, I would have already sold it.

  • @angrybirder9983

    @angrybirder9983

    Жыл бұрын

    In my case, the Giga Jul is rather jerky to rapell in brake assist mode without tricks. But there are tricks and maybe they'll even work with you Mega Jul. If you happen to have a bunch of belaying carabiners around, you can try out all of them with your Mega Jul and see if rapelling is less jerky with one of them (while still locking up if you let go!). Another thing to try would be to put another carabiner through the small hole on the Mega Jul and use it as a lever. Or try this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/iJWMmLaRhquzibQ.html The Giga Jul with any Edelrid carabiner won't lock up by itself in brake assist mode. It just doesn't. What does work is a Black Diamond Gridlock. It must be a carabiner with round cross section and correct diameter. It is rather uncomfortable to rapell with, unless you put another carabiner through the small hole in the front and use it as a lever. Not every carabiner fits, in my case it works with the Black Diamond HotForge Straight Gate and Gridlock.

  • @bullfrogboss8008

    @bullfrogboss8008

    7 ай бұрын

    Everyone who complains about rapid lowering with mega Jul coincidentally tries to do it in incorrect way...

  • @SeraphinoII
    @SeraphinoII4 жыл бұрын

    What will happen if you leave the slide in the manual setting and leave the black handle on the outside? Thx for the video!

  • @NanashiGoshujin

    @NanashiGoshujin

    2 жыл бұрын

    it will still act as manual kzread.info/dash/bejne/qaeCsreTfrrYpc4.html

  • @Ungaaaaie
    @Ungaaaaie4 жыл бұрын

    It is quite unusual design and function but pretty useful. Bit heavy tho

  • @ClimbingEasy
    @ClimbingEasy3 жыл бұрын

    If I can add another advantage; Lead Belaying: if you're Climber falls while paying out slack, this device will still Auto-Lock. Mainly because even if the belayer is pulling out on the thumb loop, releasing the auto lock, the climber side will pull up, changing the geometry of the device and carabineer, engaging the auto lock. So what that means...no death grip! Ill give the Jul to a beginner belayer over a gri gri for lead belay, I trust it more.

  • @thegreatballplayer1

    @thegreatballplayer1

    3 жыл бұрын

    Do you know if that applies to the jul 2 as well? I’m looking at that one to get as my first belay device but can’t decide between the 2 and the giga

  • @ClimbingEasy

    @ClimbingEasy

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@thegreatballplayer1 get the Gigajul, I know it's a little more expensive, BUT it's worth it. Trust me, I was were you are at 2 years ago; I got 5 other devices before I got the Gigajul... I gave away 3 of the others (mega jul, basic ATC and madrock "gri gri") now I just have a Gri-Gri 3(litterly only have that for others whom only trust gri gri's) and a Gigajul. I use the Gigajul for everything, today I was at a Crag, used it to lead belay, to guide mode belay and to repel. Also get it with an edelrid HMS.

  • @thegreatballplayer1

    @thegreatballplayer1

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@ClimbingEasy does the giga pay out slack super smooth? The main reason I was looking at the 2 was because my friend has one and it felt so much smoother than a grigri for lead. So if the giga is good at that then that’s a big plus. Also I heard the 2 is jerky with descending, is that the same with the giga?

  • @ClimbingEasy

    @ClimbingEasy

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@thegreatballplayer1 Gigajul is super smooth paying out slack, it was smoother than my Megajul. Gigajul is a litter bigger and with the same function in terms of slacking out rope. On descent; this is the Biggest difference; the Gigajul in auto lock is extremely smooth to descend with, even with my 9.9 mil rope. The Megajul was always jerking and I never for the sweet spot to descend.

  • @ClimbingEasy

    @ClimbingEasy

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@thegreatballplayer1 good questions BTW

  • @viljarknudsen3636
    @viljarknudsen36364 жыл бұрын

    You can use this with a gridlock carabiner like the black diamond magnetron right?

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    4 жыл бұрын

    viljar knudsen yep, it should work just fine with that

  • @silentfreeuse
    @silentfreeuse Жыл бұрын

    13:28 In autolock mode, it`s better way to lock carabiner through the belay devise, cos rope can twist in this case

  • @abrumm87
    @abrumm874 жыл бұрын

    Great review! When lead belaying in assisted braking mode, how easily does the rope feed through?

  • @Alexander-qy7yz

    @Alexander-qy7yz

    4 жыл бұрын

    I'm also wondering. I'm wondering if you can give out slack as easily with this device as with an atc? I just want the atc experience but with the added safetly

  • @michael-lucanatt8009

    @michael-lucanatt8009

    3 жыл бұрын

    practically impossible... which is why im back here seeing if I'm doing something wrong lol

  • @MattyDredge

    @MattyDredge

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hold the device up using the thumb loop, mentioned several times in the video. Same as a black diamond ATC pilot

  • @alcupone6462

    @alcupone6462

    3 жыл бұрын

    Depends on the rope, but in general I had no problem with ropes bellow 10mm, as you are holding the belay device, you can simply pull out fast and easy as much rope as you want with the upper hand.

  • @climbing200

    @climbing200

    3 жыл бұрын

    If you hold it with the thumb loop, it feeds super smooth. I've been using it for the last 5 months and it is my favorite device yet.

  • @mareksumaj9216
    @mareksumaj921611 ай бұрын

    Thanks for review. Is rappeling in blockinkg mode so painfull as with megajul?

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    11 ай бұрын

    I would say it's still pretty painful to rappel in the break assist mode and jus causes a jerky descent. I would just rappel with it in the manual mode with a third hand backup.

  • @bullfrogboss8008

    @bullfrogboss8008

    7 ай бұрын

    IMO rappelling with megajul is damn nice and smooth

  • @xrambo
    @xrambo3 жыл бұрын

    Did it damage your rope due to that sharp part?

  • @liam7342
    @liam73424 жыл бұрын

    Have you tried the beal birdie and how does it stack up

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    4 жыл бұрын

    I have tried the birdie, it's actually very similar to the Mad Rock Lifeguard. Both in the design and the handling, I have a video about the lifeguard the opinion is pretty much the same. kzread.info/dash/bejne/lpmh18R_k5WcoNI.html Thanks for watching

  • @curlrain
    @curlrain2 жыл бұрын

    Is it safe to rappel in assisted breaking mode directly from the belay loop without an autoblock?

  • @chamonix4658

    @chamonix4658

    2 жыл бұрын

    yes

  • @dahuman
    @dahuman4 жыл бұрын

    I don't understand why you are not clipping a biner to the juls for rappel in brake assist mode, then all you do is use the biner as control and you won't wear your arms out. I personally clip a petzel spirit 3d screw biner on those for rappelling and it makes cleaning a lot faster.

  • @spaceman8839
    @spaceman88392 жыл бұрын

    is it good for the gym? because Im starting there, thanks

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    2 жыл бұрын

    Its good for the gym, the only issue is that at most gyms there top ropes are really fat so it can cause more friction when you pull the rope through the device. It's still totally safe, just a little hard on the elbows.

  • @ananda_miaoyin
    @ananda_miaoyin3 жыл бұрын

    This looks like the one. I cannot bring myself to get a grigri. I think the only reason grigris are so popular is because it is fun to say ´´grigri.´´ Try it: ´´gri gri.´´ See? Wasn´t that fun? Petzl marketed that well. It is too bad marketing worked for VHS instead of Beta. BeatMAX was superior in every respect to VHS. Speaking of beta, you really spit some game! Great review. I hope Edelrid sent you a few for that!

  • @climbing200

    @climbing200

    3 жыл бұрын

    My wife loves and swears by the grigri, but I love this device. And I'll never get another grigri for myself again

  • @markfnorm

    @markfnorm

    3 жыл бұрын

    Gri gri just had the smoothest lowering, cant beat it for single pitch sport climbing. No more jerky lowering. I have both and the assist is nice but the giga jul just doesn't lower as well.

  • @ananda_miaoyin

    @ananda_miaoyin

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@markfnorm I just picked up a gigijul the other day. I have not tried it for lowering. I always use a Big 8. Yeah, you have to transition but I like to rappel fast. Like really fast.

  • @mfaridmfawzi4844
    @mfaridmfawzi48443 жыл бұрын

    Have you tried to use the Giga Jul on a fluffy 10mm+ gym ropes?

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    3 жыл бұрын

    I havn’t but I think it would be kind of a pain to belay, those steel teeth in the device bite real hard and would make it hard to lower a light climber, especially if the gym double wraps the rope around the barrel at the top like most do nowadays.

  • @mfaridmfawzi4844

    @mfaridmfawzi4844

    3 жыл бұрын

    thanks a lot, I'm keen to know how it works on various rope sizes

  • @mfaridmfawzi4844

    @mfaridmfawzi4844

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@ryantilley9063 i concur that, the V grooves looks really tight compared to other similar belay device. by the way, I just received mine and going to try on variety types of new and old ropes; indoor gym ropes and outdoor dry-treated and non-dry treated ropes too.

  • @911times100

    @911times100

    3 жыл бұрын

    Mine keeps locking up when belaying on those thick ropes in assisted mode. Resulting in too much slack (toprope) and using much force to unlock the rope again. It works great with my new 9,7mm rope though

  • @shoqed
    @shoqed2 жыл бұрын

    Did you notice rope twisting after lowering with GigaJul? It's the only thing I dislike about mine.

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    2 жыл бұрын

    No I haven't gotten any twisting in my rope so far, I'll keep carful watch over it next time to see if a little bit of it does happen though.

  • @Briwellman
    @Briwellman4 жыл бұрын

    I just got the giga jul. I cant get it to lock using it exactly like you are using it.

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    4 жыл бұрын

    Which locking, you mean when it's in assisted break mode? What type of rope are you using? Depending on the diameter and how new the rope is the break assist won't work as well as on a larger diameter rope with some dirt on it.

  • @KK-up3pq
    @KK-up3pq Жыл бұрын

    Thanks, great review. The only thing missing in m view is what happens if the slider is in the wrong position in the various use cases.

  • @Enorme81
    @Enorme814 жыл бұрын

    is it just me or when belaying from below, during a possible fall of the leader, the Giga Jul is not LOCKING as does the Megajul? When I try, the rope is just moving.....it's just like "braking" but not locking completely the rope and the fall.

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    4 жыл бұрын

    Ya I know what your getting at, depending on your rope and belay style more rope can slip through than other ropes. I've had some thinner ropes slipping through the devise even with the climber just sitting on the rope. However I still think it's the most foolproof devise for folks with little to no belaying experience. Thanks for watching!

  • @Enorme81

    @Enorme81

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@ryantilley9063 hey Ryan many thanks for replying to me and my doubts. I tried it again with another rope and it works perfect. I think the way the Megajul locks it's more secure than the GigaJul, but this strong lock of the Megajul brings you a lot of more work in guide mode. In guide mode the Giga works very good, as an ATC. You make great reviews! Thank you!

  • @alcupone6462

    @alcupone6462

    3 жыл бұрын

    The geometry of the assisted braking is not really working for small loading. I have the experience that in case of the fall it locks perfectly, but when loaded softly (taking, TR belaying, rappelling) it tends to slide through.

  • @Enorme81

    @Enorme81

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@alcupone6462 thanks for sharing your experience! In that case, sounds good :-)

  • @ratherbyexploring4898
    @ratherbyexploring48984 жыл бұрын

    You push the megajul away from you but the marketing material shows you should be pushing your hand toward your chest, push the loaded rope like a bowstring toward your chest, while pushing your thumb toward your chin, this introduces the rotational force required to disengage. Try doing it this way

  • @Notjudecamberos
    @Notjudecamberos3 жыл бұрын

    I am blown away that you put the device in the manual setting for guide mode.

  • @cmrosell
    @cmrosell Жыл бұрын

    Today @HardIsEasy came out with a video on belay devices - kzread.info/dash/bejne/qGykp8duiJSTfMY.html I often go for the Giga Jul. However, in his testing, the device received the lowest scores overall. He does say that his testing excluding many variables, like comfort of belay and giving out slack, the additional features, and that he hopes to tackle that in a future video. I am curious if your thoughts on the Giga Jul have changed at all since this video, and after watching the @HardIsEasy video. And what are your go to bealy to belay devices currently.

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    11 ай бұрын

    Hey, my thoughts are still the same with the Giga Jul, I think for the most part it's still a really good and most all around device. My big takeaway from that video is that if you belay poorly you can't count on the device catching your climber for you. That's not to say that he is a bad belayer, but he was testing all the standard things you'll see from bad belayers. As long as you have good belaying habits then it's a great device to use!

  • @fordguyfordguy
    @fordguyfordguy3 жыл бұрын

    is their a reason your jul is on top and prusik is on bottom?

  • @ryantilley9063

    @ryantilley9063

    3 жыл бұрын

    If you put the friction hitch on top then if/ when you go hand free while rappelling all your weight is hanging on the single friction hitch that isn't backed up. If you put the hitch below the devise then it only has to hold the break strands in the breaking position and add enough friction to keep the rope from sliding through. When the friction hitch is above the devise it is not considered a hands free system, where as the having the friction hitch below the device is considered a hands free system within the community.

  • @alcupone6462

    @alcupone6462

    3 жыл бұрын

    Also with prusik over the belay device you can end up dangling in the air hanging on the prusik being unable to "take" on the belay device and loosen the prusik.

  • @50StichesSteel
    @50StichesSteel4 жыл бұрын

    Try a Petzel Rig for a do it all...Rappel, rescue, be lay, haul, progress capture...The only downside is its size compared to these belay devices

  • @shoqed

    @shoqed

    4 жыл бұрын

    and 3 times the price and weight

  • @50StichesSteel

    @50StichesSteel

    4 жыл бұрын

    @@shoqed weight isn't an issue..Price isn't bad either if it can replace all those other devices