Having used the MegaJul for some time now in all settings from indoor to outdoor, here are a few helpful tidbits. It excels at top rope and lead belay. It is very well suited for this and is my number 1 device for those activities. Two issues which I have had to work around. 1) belaying from above: using the correct configuration (described properly in this video) it can be very difficult to use the device in guide mode. In perfect conditions (in a gym with the device not in contact with anything) it works pretty well, but lowering is very difficult. Outdoors, on one occasion, I was belaying from above, the climber took a fall, the device locked up perfectly. However, because the anchor was resting on a ledge (thus device was pinned to ledge and not free hanging like in video), it became impossible to lower or do anything in that situation. It may not be possible to have device free floating. From that point forward, I switched to ATC guide whenever belaying from above. It's easier to lower if needed, bigger controls, same assisted braking for belaying from above + good to have a backup device when outside. For rappelling, it works if you extend the rappel, flip the device 180 so the assist is effectively disabled, and you back up the rappel. In the first rappel demo, where assisted breaking is enabled, in my experience, the device can be very hard to lower at the top of the pitch and also quite jerky. All using 9.8-9.9mm ropes. Hope this helps.

@creepyshadow55

4 жыл бұрын

Do you think the Edelrid Giga Jul fixes the aformentioned issues?

@wdinternational

4 жыл бұрын

@@creepyshadow55 sry I don't have any experience with the Giga Jul yet.

@meta4101

3 жыл бұрын

@@wdinternational really helps! just bought one and was trying to figure out where I'd use it and where i would not. You answered all my questions!

Great video on an amazing device. One piece of advice: make sure to get the right carabiner. I first started using my Megajul with a pretty massive HMS from decathlon and it was super exhausting, especially to give slack. My friend paired his Gigajul with a skinny carabiner and was astounded when a coach told him that no, it's not supposed to slip like that 😅 Now I use edelrids bulletproof carabiner and everything is effortless. Maybe that should be obvious, but as a fairly new climbers we tried to cut the budget in the wrong place. Don't do that :)

I love my megajul. I’ve used it for about 2 years now and use it for everything. Super easy to feed slack, locks off wonderfully, is durable despite its size, and is super versatile. I agree about it being grabby with thicker ropes- my rope is 9.5mm and I love it. If you get into 9.8 and above, you may hate this device because the friction gets to be too much for it to be easy to use. One thing to note: on rappelling, you don’t need a carabiner that’s only edelrid sells. You just need a small nosed carabiner that will fit the hole. I use a petzl spirit carabiner and it works great! One other video recommendation is to do a follow up on the new GigaJul! Whether you think it is worth the upgrade...etc. it helps solve some problems with repelling w/o assisted braking, the additional friction when belaying in guide mode...etc. All in all- thanks so much for this video! I’ve been waiting for it for a while and I’m glad you did such an in depth explanation. ESPECIALLY on lowering in guide mode.

@you2tooyou2too

4 жыл бұрын

I have also used a loop of accessory cord (pull away rather than just down) or my cleaner pick instead of the tiny nose biner in the unnecessarily small tilt control hole.

Love the device, too. One maybe minor remark from my side. For belaying and after feeding slack, I always try to force myself to tilt my wrist downwards. Just to insure a nice 180 degree angle difference between the incoming and outcoming rope.

I've used one for 3 years and it's the best all round device, it does it all

Thanks so much, I've been needing an in-depth guide mode vid so I'm prepared if I ever need to do it on the wall! thanks for the quality content

This video convinced me to buy this device, now I've got it, it's great. Also refer back to this vid for a reminder of guide mode etc. Cheers Matt 👍

Great video - I've compared the DMM Pivot, BD Guide ATC and GriGri - the MegaJul is my fav by far. Light and easy to use.

I've been using a megajul for a few years now and it is, for me, the ultimate belay device. does everything.

@piterschaar4247

3 жыл бұрын

I used GigJul for one year and I love it.

This video is fantastic. You guys should be really proud of yourselves.

@mattiasgonczi

4 жыл бұрын

No need to go all sarcastic, I think it was good!

For abseiling, the official recommendation from Edelrid's manual says, that you need to turn the device around so that the thumb bracket points towards the body and then obviously use a rusik. The reason for that is, that you are physically lifting against your whole bodyweight with your thumb if you're abseiling like shown in the video (10:57). I've tried to abeil like this in an overhang, where i was hanging free and just barely managed to let myself down, so please don't try this!

@kasraahmadi8885

2 жыл бұрын

Barca

@kolemelvin862

2 жыл бұрын

@Lukas Ethan Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.

@kolemelvin862

2 жыл бұрын

@Lukas Ethan it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D Thanks so much you really help me out !

@lukasethan8081

2 жыл бұрын

@Kole Melvin happy to help =)

@astr0nox

2 жыл бұрын

You could attach an Edelrid Pure carabiner to the front hole and use it as a lever to let yourself down. It's a lot easier that way.

thank you so much for this video. I used this climbing with my daughter and it was very helpful and fun. i think she learned a lot .

Love it!! Can you also do a gear review of the new Giga Jul from Edelrid?

Thank you, I will be buying one. I've been climbing off and on for over 20 years now and seen all the evolutions of belay devices. Because I grew up using an ATC it's what I feel most comfortable using. I've belayed many people that want me to use a Grigri for its obvious benefits. I still don't care for feeding rope quickly on a grigri and have been looking for a brake assisted belay device. This might be the best of both worlds. Thank you for the tutorial

i use megajull for 3 years now.. very happy with it... a truly multitoul... a little graby with thicker ropes

@MrRed0135

4 жыл бұрын

What's the difference between this one and the mega jul sport?

@patrickgould5066

4 жыл бұрын

@Daniël Jansen van Rosendaal www.edelrid.de/en/sports/locking-carabiners/hms-bulletproof-triple-fg.html I recommend this one. It is pricey but well worth it. It reduces the chances of crossloading and the reinforced steel plate on the high wear section of the carabiner allows this to last a lot longer than other HMS biners. It also reduces the amount of metal (aluminum oxide dust) working its way into your ropes. So using these Bulletproof biners extends the life of your rope and biners!

@levheinzle2482

4 жыл бұрын

@@MrRed0135 no plate, has rills on it though, so it doesn't heat up, can't use for alpinism

It really does everything. and low price and mega durable (made out of steel) and really small and lightweight Love Edelrid

I prefer the second abseil method. The first method is pretty good, if you abseil on slap routes but in my opinion it is hard in overhanging parts. In this case it is really diffcult to get the right speed, so not to fast and not to slow.

Have been using the device both for sports climbing and multi-pitch routes. I really can do everything, is light and small. Due to the steel construction will last longer than other devices made of aluminium. I can totally recommend it. Considering the guide mode: Lowering someone is very tricky here. I the video it is stated that this is only an issue for heavy climbers, here i must disagree. If someone in hanging in the rope, you cannot just "lift" the carabiner. However, there is a workaround. You can just use the oldschool HMS method to take your partners up. You can use your carabiner from the MegaJul for this.

Matt, your rappel backup knot is fine, but it is not a prusik. The one you are using is a simpler friction hitch. Sorry for poiting it out but when safety is involved, it is better to get things right.

@shoeonhead

4 жыл бұрын

You’re going to find some debate on your use of the terminology. A prusik is a friction hitch variant and the terms are used interchangeably in large parts of the climbing world. It’s still a safe method. as far as I can see from the video. There are varied methods after all. He could have done a Klemheist knot or a Bachmann knot as well. They are all valid methods of autoblocking. Sure he isn’t using a classic prusik, but colloquially most would still call it a prusik. The way he did it is not unsafe in any capacity, in fact the french method/autoblock is specifically more advantageous for rappelling/abseiling. I might be uppity as well and say if you were using a classic prusik you could be using a Bachmann, as a classic prusik is a simpler friction hitch, thus you’d need to be corrected. But that’d be pedantic and ridiculous since it’d be completely fine and people interchange the exact terms all the time.

@jbdavisnc

4 жыл бұрын

I'm more upset that Matt's extension is girth hitched through the belay loop and not the hard points. 🤷‍♂️

@arnoldkotlyarevsky383

4 жыл бұрын

@@jbdavisnc It is fine to girth hitch to the belay loop. The only reason it is advised to girth hitch through the hard points is because a lot of people leave their extension/tether/PAS/etc. attached to their harness all the time which can lead to wear and tear on a non-redundant piece of fabric (famously resulting in the death of a climber a while back). The hard points are redundant and are less likely to fail before a harness needs replacing. If you dont leave your extension/etc. attached all the time, for the sake of expedience you can girth hitch to your belay loop in a pinch. In many places the climbing ethic is to lower rather than abseil anyway so this becomes an infrequent operation that is unlikely to result in a single event failure mode of the belay loop.

@cbat09

4 жыл бұрын

@@shoeonhead I've never met anyone that would call an autoblock a prussik, because an autoblock is not a prussik. It seems ridiculous to mention the Bachmann knot, since the it incorporates a carabiner, which would be a glaring distinguishing characteristic; you may as well call an overhand slip knot a "bowline" since they are both loop knots. Since the four friction knots all have different characteristics it seems lazy to me to conflate them all as "prussiks".

@mysticmurder

4 жыл бұрын

It's called a French prusik where I am.

I use the jul for everything..... Its perfect for top rope chill days when youre teaching new people to belay, gives a good lead belay IMO. Does the job for rappel. I made the mistake of trying to use it in brake assist on a free rappel and it was a real arm workout to disable the brake haha. It's much better without brake assist on rappel.

@thestarsof2012

4 жыл бұрын

I found that out the hard way.

I love this. Used for about 3 years with no plan to change..amazing all rounder (though I hate rappelling with it. Safe...but bouncy!)

I'm missing an informaton here.. i'm using the Mega Jul as well since more than a year with a 9mm rope, and me and all my friends can tell the same after first few uses: Lowering your partner with this one is somehting you need to get used to, no matter how thick or thin your rope is. it either feeds to fast or way to slow, not a security issue but something you need to get used to and you will :-) besides form that: great review.

Cool informative clip💪 👌 One Thing about lowering: Version one correctly done with the thumb in loop and closed hand around the rope. Always use two closed hands on the rope if possible. That's why version two is possible but not really recommended.

can we have a skills video of Matt doing knots, tying off at the top of a climb to clean a route and things like Prussics?

Been using it since day one many years ago. Versatile, strong, easy to use... forget about the expensive and complex GriGri belaying system guys. This is the future.

I would add that it being steel makes it way more durable than aluminium competitors.

@aspuzling

4 жыл бұрын

Perhaps in a like for like comparison, steel is stronger than aluminium but the Mega Jul is much thinner than any aluminium belay device would be. I don't think durability is really a deciding factor for this or any other device to be honest.

@user-ez4iv2kp4f

4 жыл бұрын

@@aspuzling actually it is. Aluminum devices are being grinded through by ropes. Very fast by dirty ropes. After that they start to grind the ropes themselfs by sharp edges. This steel device will hold much longer, so it will live longer and dont grind the ropes.

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

@@aspuzling edelrid bulletproof quickdraws are using a steel insert on their aluminum biner for that reason. Really makes sense for the draws you will be top roping on.

For abseiling or taking a climber down with a much better control: I don't push the device upward with my thumb like in the video, but I put my first and second fingers in the loop, my thumb on the little hole on the opposite side, and I do a wrist rotation move. It is safer and effortless (which is useful when you are pumped). If you try abseiling like in the video with a thick or stiff rope, you are likely to waste a lot of energy and get a succession of little free falls. I have used a lot of belay devices since the 80s, this is my preferred one to date. No moving or hidden part. Simple, safe, light, cheap.

I've been using the megajul since 2018 now, and I haven't had to replace it even climbing 3 days a week at a gym. I bought it because my regular ATC's cable was rubbed bare, and my Grigri really sucked for lead belay. I love it so much, it feels second nature in every way.

I used to lock the safety carabiner exactly how it's shown on the video, but once it happened that the cable got stuck to the locking sleeve, which made the device kept feeding rope and if I wouldn't had my hand on the rope my climbing partner would'd fell off the wall. We are now pointing the carabiner screwgate to the right (we are right handed) so when the cable goes down it has no obstacles to activate the auto lock system. I'd like to know if anything like that has ever happened to you. Also, if it makes a difference to point place the screwgate to one or to other side (right or left) when you're belaying.

I love this device I use it all the time. Do find it a bit jerky when abseiling however. That might be because I need a bit more practice.

@you2tooyou2too

4 жыл бұрын

no. the pinch is designed that way to allow for thinner ropes, so it is grabbier on larger ropes.

I also thought all that when I bough My MegaJul years ago. But I already sold it. Why? Too grabby! And no, not old thick ropes. Pretty new 9,5mm single rope Mammut Infinity. When lead belaying, it tires your shoulder when beeing a full day at a crag. Because it is so grabby, it takes energy to constantly hold the device open (the break). On the other side, it makes the device mega safe. I've used it enough and can say, even if noobs probably let go of the break end of the rope, it locks 100%. No slippage, no mater how fast or constantly slow the rope runs through, it locks that bad. Beeing belayed with that makes you feel "safer" that beeing belayed with a GriGri. Of course, your amound of felt safety is the amount of trust and confidence you have in your belayer.

@jakob8741

4 жыл бұрын

Depends on the rope! (I'm using it for about 6 years.) It may lock almost 100% with the stiffer Mammut, but not with others. Handling is very good with edelrid or sterling. Recently I belayed with an old, grigri-used super soft Beal; started with mega Jul - shit! - and switched to a grigri at second bolt. But I do the belay like with a tube, not like shown in the video. I also had ropes in my hand, where I didnt liked a grigri, but Megajul was OK. The abseiling in locking-mode is almost imossible, works only on few ropes; or an single rope. Nice option anyway, I used it for abseiling single half-rope one day. Be careful to really hold the break hand like with a tube, the impact can be high (but very rarely). I had this effect one time at a bad belay position in multi-pitch.

It really is the jack of all trades of belay devices.

8:33 Singing Rock Colt also fits smoothly in the eyelet.

Your vids are pretty good and simple. But please, for the sake of accuracy, call friction knots by their correct names. You tied an autoblock backup and referred to it incorrectly as a prussik, which is unfortunately used often as a generic but inaccurate term.

great video!

Great video - someone is really enthusiastic about the device...and it is awesome. Technically true, neverless at 6000 meters plus things become tremendously complicate and more simplistic devices are more popular - figure 8 for abseil is most prominent, still.

@aaronmichaelkonig4666

2 жыл бұрын

Figure 8? Surely not!

Thanx for the good video. One question remains: Is it also possible to use the megajul as fixpoint belaytool for multipiches in lead mode. There is a picture 15a in the manual, that shows it like this. I hardly miss a video about this.

Thanks mate

Feeling ancient...still got a 2-hole 9mm sticht plate...does it all,for me anyhow. Think it comes from an era before "health n safety".

You can definitely rappel off a single strand with a Grigri or similar device without using an Escaper or fixing the line. You'd just need to use Reepschnur hitch, which is really simple to set up .

Why did you raise the volume of the music when Mat was talking about using a third carabiner to lower??? Also you have to use a special carabiner. that's kind of strange.

@andrewwarnke5425

4 жыл бұрын

Bro Jaxs you don’t HAVE to, I’ve used mine in this way to lower a follower back to the ground. However I have to imagine whatever they sell being more efficient, it still took me forever, the main problem being the carabiner I had was just a bit too wide to fit completely in that little eyelet on the back so I couldn’t get as much leverage without the “lever” carabiner just slipping off.

@aspuzling

4 жыл бұрын

The volume thing was obviously an editing mistake

@ZAMOLXEDARK

4 жыл бұрын

no need for a "special" carabiner... a usual HMS will do fine

@dzi333

4 жыл бұрын

This is the only answer that comes to my mind ;) kzread.info/dash/bejne/fomkyo-yZZjYlNo.html

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

@@ZAMOLXEDARK no need for any carabiner. Just girth hitch the little hole with a runner or cord.

Actually really fancy one now

Do I have a deja vu or you have uploaded exactly the same video like some time ago?! :D

@markostojanovic6973

4 жыл бұрын

yeah. it was removed for some reason

@therampagerado

4 жыл бұрын

oh... 'there's an update in the middle' :D :D :D

@markostojanovic6973

4 жыл бұрын

@@therampagerado yeah i noticed it too. glad they did correct the video to give out correct info. good work

@JuanFernandez-dz3cj

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry, but there’s a smart made for two ropes.

@VinceW187

4 жыл бұрын

Very confusing

Epic!!!!

0:59 so ur just not gonna mention the smart alpine? ;)

@minirusse19

4 жыл бұрын

I hate it because the NEVER mention this one, it's like they don't even know it exist... That's becoming almost irritating

@halcyonCorsair

4 жыл бұрын

@@minirusse19 He does mention a smart in passing I think somewhere after 9m

When abseiling in locking mode at the top of long steep routes where the ropes are hanging heavily on the "dead" side of the device I find it very hard to avoid jerking and bouncing as I lower myself. It can be very unnerving especially if you are lowering off old rusty anchors and are not sure how trustworthy they are. On the other hand I absolutely love being able to lock the device and take my hands off the rope (sorry Matt) to retrieve gear or untangle the rope and being able to skip the step of tying a prussik definitely speeds up descents especially on long multi-pitches.

@derekhubbard52

4 жыл бұрын

What's the diameter of your rope? I had that same thing happen with my BD pilot with a 10.2 mm, but it went away when I used a 9.5

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

Using a glove on the hand that releases the brake really helps. also saddlebags eliminate the weight on the rope and is much smoother to rappel on.

I noticed that, in addition to upwards, you tilt the jul kind of sideways when feeding slack (so that the rope in/outlet almost points to the left while your braking hand is on the right). I keep the jul symmetrically aligned with the rope, meaning that the rope comes out vertically. Is one of these methods better than the other?

@bikerdude923

4 жыл бұрын

I would guess that that is just how he holds his hand while belaying, I find myself holding it different depending on where I am standing in relation to the rope.

I have the micro jul for double ropes and I must admit I find it quite confusing after a year of use. In altitude and being tired this could be... I often leave it at home and take the Reverso instead to be in the safe side.

@dzi333

4 жыл бұрын

I had the same thought after watching this video.

Great if you have newbies belaying you...you know it will.self lock. Especially if u use the Hms edelrid biner designed not to rotate horizontally . I use it with my double ropes 8.5mm

Lowering, tuck your elbow into the hip and raise or lower the forearm. More control.

So far I've always belayed using a simple ATC device, and was doing it only in the gym. This year I've started doing outdoors climbing, and I've started to feel like it would be better to have something that can auto-block: being outdoor comes with a whole slew of additional hazards, like falling objects, unequal terrain that might make you trip, less than ideal landing surfaces if you get projected onto the wall by an abrupt fall, and so on... So I've got a question about that. Isn't there much more chance that these single-part devices, which rely on angle and positioning to provide automatic breaking, would fail in any of these situations? It seems to me that they mostly provide protection against manipulation or attention errors. But if I was to fall or pass out for some reason, isn't there a kinda high change that I would end up leaning on it the wrong way? Whereas the the grigri would almost certainly work?

@MrAussieJules

3 жыл бұрын

I use the edelrid HMS biner with a clip.at the bottom... makes sure the biner cant rotate and go horizontal.

Hey Matt, I don't like sticking my thumb through the green loop when belaying because I think it is too easy to accidentally prevent it from working properly and locking, instead I'll hook my pointer/middle finger through since they are weaker than thumbs, or with thinner ropes (and a bit of practice) you can actually just pay out slack just like a normal ATC w/o having to hold the device at all. Not saying one way is better just providing my opinion incase others see that and wonder the same thing.

My only concern with the mega jul is that while lead climbing you need your brake hand in the lever. If a big fall happens and you accidentally have your hand in the lever is there a chance of the brake releasing?

Like QVC for climbing gear 😂

Well, we love the megajul for all purposes. The special carabiner by edelrid makes abseiling easier, it is the only one, that I know of, that fits in the tiny hole. It's called Edelrid Pure Screw. Very light weight. Can recommend very much.

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

Dude, just feed a runner or cord into the tiny hole lol. No special biner needed!

@patrickgould07

4 жыл бұрын

The Petzl Spirit works too

that´s not a prussik...

@baucez

4 жыл бұрын

it's a machard

@chamatt

4 жыл бұрын

@@baucez yep... but I get where people misundertand this. Most climbers that I know call the carabiner+cordelette a prussik, not even with a knot yet. So, every autoblock knot is called a prussik, even if is not.

@jeremyvanriemsdyke1136

4 жыл бұрын

Oh yes it is.

@marcusstrymon693

3 жыл бұрын

Yep. right. and also this method was wrong. I mean beginners copying this might forget to. use a 120 sling with a knot and a carabiner on the very front to clip you intonthe wall. while building your abseil method...

@jasonlovi8745

Жыл бұрын

It’s a French prussik

@12:30 is all but a brusik, also not a kind of it

@TheAlumic

2 жыл бұрын

At first I thought mhm , might be a klemheist, but wtf is that knot?

In minute 7:50 it looks like the inward rope might open the screwlock. This looks super scary to me. Any thought on this?

@tdegler

2 жыл бұрын

Use twin gates. Solves bunch of problems.

I personally don't like the mega jul for the descent. I prefer a normal tuber and a prusic. The megajul is braking too hard for me. In the video if you look closely you at 13:00 you see that the descent is not fluid. On multipitches i have my normal tuber and the megajul and use them depending on the situation. It's also nice to have two because I always feel paranoid if my tuber would ever slip out of my hands and I'm stuck without one.

What about the smart alpine? It compares much better to the mega ju

@AdamFranco

Жыл бұрын

Unfortunately the Mammut Smart Alpine seems to have been discontinued. My climbing partner uses one regularly as well as the Mega Jul and I've used both. The Smart Alpine has more leverage on its nose, making it easier to lower a heavy climber or repel with than the Mega Jul in assist mode. That said, I'm finding my repels smoother with the Mega Jul in non-assisted (extended + prussik) repel mode as I find sliding the prussik easier than lifting either devices' nose when heavily weighted.

Switched to the gigajul for awhile now but I miss how tiny the mega feels. Mega jul has a few minor issues that can be a pain that the giga fixes.

@vincentkrause7097

4 жыл бұрын

What are the issues?

@joshbrainerd

4 жыл бұрын

@@vincentkrause7097 Compared to a reverso or BD Guide, It's not very smooth in direct belay (this of course depends on rope diameter/angle/etc). You get a real workout sometimes. Rappel has a couple of issues; locking mode is great for single pitch, but for long raps it again is a workout trying to release it. Also can be very difficult to move up when you are setting it up at the anchor. There are a few others issues and a couple of the elderid tech show vids discuss the improvements of the giga vs mega.. Pretty much all of the issues are resolved on the gigajul by sliding a plate to change the shape of the channel that the rope is moving through. From second hand viewing it looked gimmicky or sketchy but it actually works very well and feels solid to me. The only thing I don't like about it is the whole device went from a tiny lightweight, to a clunky one.

Problem with double ropes is that you cannot give slak (or take slak) independently. So you cannot block a climber and take the other as they climb top rope (in a 3 person multi pitch) or block one rope and give slack to the other when leading.

Go to 6:01 to see the updated guide-mode/direct anchor belay method technique.

Odds you could do a video on the Giga Jul by Edelrid?

bicep veins r poppin.

I stopped using mine because the rappel was incredibly jerky. Paying out slack was also jerky and not smooth.

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

You didnt belay with it long enough, feeds like butter on belay, even with old, flat gym ropes. Rappel is difficult but you could just flip the device to avoid the assisted braking mode.

Sold.

First mode rappeling is not raccomended from Edelrid. Why?

Whats the main difference between the mega jul and mega jul sport?

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

Guide mode

I had a Megajul a while back, and there are two things it has trouble with: thick ropes like Matt said and heavy climbers. I'm about 100kg, and would jam up every time my weight got loaded on it, no matter what, so if you or one of your friends is on the heavy side a Reverso or an ATC Guide is a much better option.

@aspuzling

4 жыл бұрын

What do you mean by this? It is expected that the device locks during a fall and otherwise, I'm not sure how your weight makes a difference. I do notice that people sometimes complain that the Mega Jul gives a hard catch because it locks down so quickly and abruptly. In this case I think it makes a big difference if the belayer is heavy or the climber is light. Luckily for me I'm a lightweight so my climbers don't complain too much about hard catches.

12:35 That is not a prusik, is a machard.

is there a version of this device that will work with thicker ropes?

@OmmerSyssel

Жыл бұрын

Seen Giga Jul?

I learned to do a prusik by basically doing basically a triple girth hitch. Is that wrong?

@YL_AmericadoSul

4 жыл бұрын

That is correct, Owen. The knot Matt tied as his third hand is a Simple Friction hitch, but also called French prusik.

@arnoldkotlyarevsky383

4 жыл бұрын

The term 'prusik' is a bit ambiguous as it is used here. Originally, the prusik knot was a particular type of friction hitch tied the way you describe. However, as time went on, the climbing community began to use this term to describe the short piece of cord commonly carried for the purpose of providing friction on a climbing rope. The bit of rope became synonymous with the knot it was used to tie. It would be like calling all 60cm sewn runners (or slings) "extenders" because that is what they get used for a lot.

@cbat09

4 жыл бұрын

He tied an autoblock, not a prussik.

that static scared me

Does it matter what carabiner you use?

@patrickgould07

4 жыл бұрын

Not really for belaying as long as it fits into that groove to pinch the rope but I haven’t had any that are too thick. However, if you want to lower your second from above using the lever style than only a few fit the nose of the megajul. I use the Petzl Spirit for that application.

Lot of misinformation in this video. There is another device meant for thinner half ropes, the microjul, you can use a sling to lower on guide mode just like on a BD ATC without buying the 'special made caribiner' (or using just a small enough carabiner). Matt also claims using a single strand only device makes it impossible to rappel without using a BEAL Escaper or fixing your rope, people use GriGris to rappel on big routes all the time. Look up biner block, you don't need a pull cord, you tie an overhand on a bight pull the rope through the chains till it hits it, then clip the overhand on the opposite side strand with a locker, when you're done rappelling just pull the knot side of the rope.

@markweedon5678

4 жыл бұрын

And a super handy/important skill to know if you ever get a rope damaged!

If it's competitors can only be used with one rope, then they are competitors to the normal Jul, which is even lighter and even cheaper.

Anybody know what that light blue rope is? Thanks!

@dailyclimbing

2 жыл бұрын

It’s a tendon rope! And we’ve got a wide selection on EpicTV… shop.epictv.com/en/brands/tendon/ropes?page=1

7:32 Dont get me wrong, this video is great and you seem to be a very good instructor, but at 7:32 when youre showing how to belay as a guide, the way the carabiner is positioned looks very easy to unlock the safety lock on the gate as the rope is running on it. Is it really how the mega jul is supposed to work? Im very curious because i dont use those, i prefer the ATC but im considering buying one of these and that looks kinda dangerous.

@patrickgould07

4 жыл бұрын

It does look strange but it is how you use it. Edelrid even announced an update a few years ago. I’ve never had any issues. I use a rounded spine locker from Metolius. Works just fine.

12:15 thats not a prusik, but a marchand knot. Cool video tho

rappellling is a nightmare with this device. Otherwise, I like it.

what about the gigajule?

This thing is not comparable to the smart or pilot, it should more be compared to the smart alpine i think

I'm not a very experienced climber but I think it's better to be safe than sorry... From what I was taught there are some safety issues in this video: 1. Don't grab the stopper knot (or Prusik after how it was called in the video) with your hand as people tend to tighten the grip when falling what could result in eliminating the stopper. Hold the hand on the rope above it and slide the knot down by pushing it from the top. 2. Loosening the weighted rope in guide mode with another biner as mentioned in the video is potentially fatal if the rope is actually weighted or in case of a badly timed fall. So it's better to know bit more about it than what was shown in this video. More on this here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fomkyo-yZZjYlNo.html 3. I'm not sure about not using a stopper knot for rappelling. Is this what the device usage instructions say? This feels sketchy. I'd also consider that the device can be set up for rappel upside down, working just as a normal ATC, and confusing the modes and not having a stopper can be potentially fatal again to my understanding. Please let me know if I misunderstood something.

@virusheat

4 жыл бұрын

Stopper knot is a totally different thing...just saying.

... I'll still carry a grigri and an atc. if you want one device for it all, get the mammut smart 2.0.

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

One device for it all? It doesnt do guide mode or rappel on 2 ropes... and the mammut smart is 15g heavier.

What is the harness of the journalist ? I think it's really beautiful, this blue

Hi all. I have been seeing the use of friction hitches a lot in rock climbing recently and was wondering if someone could explain how it is safe. I am a qualified arborist and am fairly certain that friction hitches do not perform safely on dynamic rope as it increases the chance of the hitch slipping, something that can even happen on static line, hence the term of tending to your prusik. In addition the cord used in all rock climbing videos never looks as if it is load bearing something that seams almost insane. Any info would be great. Cant seem to find anything on the internet about stress tests of this use of hitches. Thanks

@ePiiCeaglepwner

4 жыл бұрын

I've used a lot of friction hitches both as backups to rappels and to ascend ropes and have never had one fail. The cord i mostly use is 5mm and rated for 6kN so plenty strong as long as you're not taking a big fall on it.

@JackBringloe

4 жыл бұрын

This is safe because it is a completely different application with vastly different loading profiles than found in tree climbing or rope access work. I would never work a tree off of a machard tied in non-heat resistant cord like Matt is using in the video, but for a rappel backup it is more than adequate, as the friction hitch is really only replacing the climber's brake hand on the rope(s). The belay device is taking the majority of the load, even more so than with a rope wrench or similar SRT device. As to friction hitches not working on dynamic ropes, I have no idea where you're getting that from. Of course hitch selection and relative sizes of the cordage involved are very important, but whether the line the hitches are used on is static, dynamic, or semi-dynamic like a tree rope is neither here nor there. A little googling should turn up some of the vast amount of testing that has been done on this over many years by the UIAA, guide associations, S&R teams, and private individuals. Or just get a lead rope and try it yourself. You will quickly convince yourself that a garden variety triple prusik hitch tied and well set with, say, 6mm accessory cord, around even the skinniest available dynamic climbing rope is absolutely bomber. A Machard is less idiot-proof, but ultimately even stronger because the load is distributed to four strands instead of two. This why putting bodyweight on a Machard tied in 5mm cord is not nearly as crazy as it sounds, and again, when used as a rappel backup, the knot will never see anything remotely close to full bodyweight.

@n4boards144

4 жыл бұрын

@@JackBringloe Thanks for the explanation, thinking about it a bit like srt makes a lot of sense, that the belay device is still taking most the load. in regards to the dynamic rope friction hitches are less likely to selftend and can slip a little as the rope stretches and then constricts again this movement can cause the hitch to loose its bite on the rope.

@JackBringloe

4 жыл бұрын

@@n4boards144 I guess I'll buy that for a dollar. However, I'd make a couple of points: Self-tending ablity isn't really an issue in rec. climbing or even rescue applications. That's what mechanical ascenders are for. Also dynamic climbing ropes don't really stretch as much as some people think. 10% max over the whole length of the rope for single ropes, 12% for half ropes. The texture and condition of the rope, whether or not it is dry-treated, and especially the conditions (i.e.: water, ice) are all more important factors. In practice friction hitches of all sorts work very well, assuming they are tied properly from suitable material.

@markweedon5678

4 жыл бұрын

vimeo.com/145012490 ACMG - Canadian Mountain Guides Testing friction hitches vs mechanical devices. Great video. Good point on hitches not destroying your rope upon failure point.

Quick thing... grigris work great for bringing up a second(belaying from above). Still can’t rappel off it though.

@jbdavisnc

4 жыл бұрын

Couldn't you rapp down on a Grigri by using a tag line, or an EDK at the rapp rings, or maybe alpine butterfly w a carabiner at the rapp rings? I've not tried this yet, but should work, no?

@jbdavisnc

4 жыл бұрын

@John Daley that sounds so much less complicated than what I had in mind. Makes sense 👌 But I also suppose to do it that way you have to pay careful attention to leaving enough slack on the end that slides thru the grigri, or else just tie off at the end rather than the middle of the rope?

Megajuul man

Can it be used with heavier rope 10mm for instance or larger?

@BroncoBerberiX

Жыл бұрын

up to 10.5mm

So it is a normal ATC with extra steps?

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

No, it is assisted braking and does guide mode. One extra step, lift up on green to lower/feed slack

who the hell did the sound mixing on this?!?

Good but....wear the and fit your harness well..your leg loop is TWIST!!!bad bad bad

Way too much time setting up this thing when you’re in a bad situation and need to get down a long alpine route rapidly. Old school tubular device with friction hitch is simpler, less prone to mistakes. The fact that Edelrid had to revise its method of use speaks for itself

The "two ways" to lower a climber should be three. You can put a carabiner on it in the small hole as a lever when lowering, not only in guide mode.

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

No Tiny biners needed! Just girth hitch the small hole with a runner or cord!

Man the white noise when showing the old tv was way too loud 😂

have a mega jul and not a fan, its more complicated and grabby than its competition in my opinion. BD ATC flows a lot better with thick ropes and comes with guide mode, currently use the reverso for my multi pitch stuff and ATC for most other stuff. have a MK1 Gri Gri that gets used for abseiling / route cleaning and some belaying

@mikeweber777

4 жыл бұрын

Megajul has guide mode

Thats not a prusik its a machard

kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZoOFp9Btqtu0XbQ.html for those wondering what's different

I feel like you could have made a 5sec video saying: "it's a tuber with a thumb thingy"... Edit: also this is not a prussik