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I reckon the zinc additive acts as a backup to when the solvent breaks down the oils film strength. This form of Zinc is primarily an anti oxidant rather than anti wear.

I've never been a fan of oil "additives" or "treatments". I'm always wondering how well or not well they interact and react with the additive package and base oil in the motor oil being supplemented. I prefer to use an oil that is already formulated for my engines needs.

Liquimoly gives more information about their Ceratec additive. It contains hexagonal boron nitride and a friction modifier in a mineral oil carrier.

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

Not a huge amount available though. The SDS doesn't list the quantity of Boron Nitride, only the friction modifier (the same Moly-based compound as in the Engine Protect product).

@1crazypj

Жыл бұрын

Pretty much a waste of money with a good oil filtration system. Molybdenum does not stay in suspension but drops out to coat sump Anything with a centrifugal filter will remove any particulate above about 1 micron where a paper filter only removes 10 micron or larger particulates

@MG3R

Жыл бұрын

@@LubricationExplained kzread.info/dash/bejne/qnuAspZtkrLKo8Y.html for your reference

@alouisschafer7212

Жыл бұрын

yeah its hBN particles and some form of MoDTC in some base oil Its not AN or Ester that's for sure. Not really the greatest additive especially not for 20$ per oil change. Mannol sells a very similar additive that's also hBN based BUT it's suspended in synthetic Ester Oil AND it also contains a lot of ZDDP so you end up boosting your ZDDP around ~300-400ppm. And that stuff is 6,50$ a can here!

@hellohello8556

7 ай бұрын

​@@alouisschafer7212G'day mate. What is the name of the Mannol product that you are referring to?

liqui moly is owned by wurth and they make some very good products ,there engine oil treetment is mainly moly and works well in my diesel

Maybe the zinc is added for some extra wear protection in the flush to compensate for it making the oil thin

"Motor Protect" :::: Moly (FM, AW, and anti-Ox) is there in significant amounts. The MSDS said it is between 2500 ppm to 10,000 ppm, and you divide that by 10 to get the concentration bump-up if you put this in a typical 5-quart sump, for example. So, this will increase the moly content by anywhere between 250 ppm to 1,000 ppm, which is considered A LOT. Motor oils typically have between 50 ppm up to 900 ppm rarely (Japanese light 0w20 oils have a bunch). So you can see Motor Protect does boost moly Plenty. And Dispersants are there, enough probably. Calcium detergents are there in small amounts, not bad, and it will increase TBN (acid absorbing capability) a little, not much. AND,.... other ingredients not so poisonous so they are not in the MSDS, might be there, unknown, like some esters maybe, for more AW and FM (???). I'd say add this as top-off oil during a long usage interval, to replace depleted chemicals in your motor oil as it ages slightly.

Thank you for the informations , i think zddp in the flush is added because they say add the flushing product to hot engine , maybe.

If they made the oil good enough, there's no need for these money making additives

I've used that flush. I have an 8.8qt oil sump so I used 2 bottles. I changed the oil and drained the filter and replaced with new oil and flush. After 15 minutes I drained again. I was very surprised at how dirty the "new" oil was. Even putting some in a glass jar with a flashlight behind it, it was extremely dirty. People say you don't need a flush with regular changes but I use a top brand synthetic and change my oil 25-50% more often than recommended. I had 80K miles on the engine and the Audi 4.0T is known for clogging the turbo screen so I thought I'd give it a shot. Question is, with the little bit of flush left will it hurt the new oil's performance. I think the car retains .4 - .6qt during a change.

@reiannaidoo

Жыл бұрын

I have a honda civic. I drained the oil until 1 drop every 15 seconds came out. I then put the plug back in and left the car for a week to sit with no oil. After 7 days or so i removed the sum plug and like almost a liter of oil came out. I was shocked. I then added new oil. With this new info the next time i did a service i added the engine flush, let it drain normally and then added a cheap synthetic oil with new filter and ran the engine on 2500rpm for 15 minutes. I then drained that oil out till a drop every 30 seconds or so. The oil looked dark like used oil. I then filled my castrol synthetic in with another new oil filter. After doing a run with the car i checked the dip stick and the oil looks like new from the bottle. My point here is i love my car and i won't leave that little bit of engine flush in the engine, it has potential to thin the oil out because of how much is still left over with a standard oil drain.

@datsuntoyy

Жыл бұрын

@@reiannaidoo I have since calculated it to about 6%, It's neglegable. Next time, put a breaker on the crank pully and turn the engine over once. It'll open up some new passages to drain. You should see a bunch come out of the oil filter it it's still off. I don't have a week to let oil drain.

@mareksumguy1887

Жыл бұрын

@@datsuntoyy or just remove spark plugs, pull EFI fuse, and crank the engine using the starter motor. Smart guy.

@datsuntoyy

Жыл бұрын

@@mareksumguy1887 any idea on how long it takes to remove spark plugs in some cars? Also not fond of clearing settings/creating faults in the computer or risking a spark thus frying a computer. Many engines have a very accesable crank pully that only takes a minute and with the ignition off won't be affected by turning the crank. Yep, smart guy who can think things through.

@DumitruUrsu

Жыл бұрын

you'd then have to weigh the damage done by running the engine on the oil film alone vs leaving in the few grams of flush. Leave the residual flush in, most of the crap would evaporate anyway in the next 10km.

I've been using Valvoline racing oil with zinc in my flat tappet engines for many years with good results, would this oil be a upgrade, thanks for sharing this info

Could you do a video on WS2 (tungsten disulfide) as a friction modifier and the pros and cons?

@user-nw4dw1zl9u

5 ай бұрын

Da...I mene VEOMA interesuje IF-WS2 upotreba ..POGOTOVO jer JEDNA OD NAJBOLJIh nemackih KOMPANIJa za ulje RAVENOL ih koristi I to u najboljoj seriji RACING ULJA

Looking at zx1 extralube, how would they compare. I beleve zx1 is zinc dialkyl phosphate. Any good no idea, the sds also include the terms "trade secruit" so who really k.nows

My suggestion: Mannol Ceramo Ester hBN + lots of ZDDP + synthetic Ester pretty cool stuff very cheap too It's a potent ZDDP booster it adds around 300-400ppm I think to 5-6L of oil on top of the hexagonal Boron Nitride. That might become significant to you.

@nesmio7378

5 ай бұрын

No moly in it?

Could you also look at amsoil engine flush product?

Which one is more motor protect of liqui moly ceratec and motor protect.

If Moly is made in Germany with fact sheet its good. Just put in new car engine seems smoother,Keep you Posted.

“I’m kinda self taught, I’ve never taken any chemistry classes…” I envy your intelligence, that’s insane man

When did you talk about penzoil ultra platinum??

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

kzread.info/dash/bejne/goufpK-udbO5n5s.html

Good day! Can you give time in discussing Xado Ceramic Metal Nano Technology ( CERMET ) and Carbon 60? Thank you!

I'd guess, zddp is added to engine flush, to prevent wear? 'Cos the flush needs to dilute engine oil viscosity? Re: Engine protect, oil additive, base oil: I learned here, that GII base oils are also being hydro treated? Like GIII's?

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah I’m not sure, it’s a head scratcher. I think generally hydrotreated = Gp II and hydrocracked = Gp III

thanks for this, i just came here again to ask that you do a video on what the difference is between cheap and expensive engine oils, esp the latest ilsac gf6a and SN plus oils. these range from 6 USD to 60USD per litre, a huge price difference when the minimum specs seem really high so why bother using anything more than the cheapest if its meets the "so called toughest API standards". pls consider using a mic as the voice volume is low.. thanks

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback! I’ll add it to the queue. I did touch on this topic in the following video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mKd6wcaCdKewl9Y.html

We ur fans/ subscribers will like u to make engine lubricant making videos and how to source the materials.. thanks,we are waiting

I’d never used any of these fuel / oil additives, simply do more regular oil changes using quality products based on usage (change after track days) and other routine maintenances.

I would like to ask you about a super strange thing , alot of forum recommend motorcycle oil must have Api : Sl ,they that it have more zddp so i basically use it , but afterwards i searched for top oil brands and find out that the top tier oils are Api : Sn , im really confused , maybe this can be discussed in the next video .

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

I’m not so familiar with motorbike oils, but I think the rationale behind this is that the newer oils contain friction modifiers, so you don’t want to use it on a wet clutch bike. In this instance, better to look for the JASO motorbike spec.

@Liam1304

2 жыл бұрын

A few years ago when SL oils were used I read that it was better to use SH or SJ for bikes as the ZDDP was higher - so interesting. My impression is that people lamented the lack of ZDDP as an essential for bike engines, but from what I gather now other perfectly acceptable anti-wear additives have replaced ZDDP so it's an outdated concern. Just my impression.

@kariminabi1640

2 жыл бұрын

@@LubricationExplained ok , now the most controversial thing that I've found is that some oils like rottela t6 , t4 , stuff like that are rated jaso ma2 , i believe that someone said diesel oil that not have friction modifiers in it , in my country we don't have access to shell rottela products , we have other brands , and a some of them are rated api : sn and jaso ma/ma2 approved and some just says in the description wet clush safe, and they are listed as car oil , am i missing something here or what , plz inform me more about this topic.

@viskroket6478

Жыл бұрын

@@LubricationExplained I've researched motorcycle/wet clutch oils extensively as a teenager due to being an avid 2T rider at the time, and there are some studies showing that clutch slipping isn't really caused by friction modifiers as much as it is caused by lower viscosity oils, such as you would see with an SM/SN/SP oil, and I would also presume that the lack of sufficient additives and chemistry to limit viscosity loss during shearing plays a role. Then, another thing to consider is HTHS, especially in enduro applications. KTM recommends running a 10W60 in their 4T bikes for hard on-track and enduro applications, so there is certainly a need for viscosity retention at extremely high temperatures with motorcycle oils. In my research, I found VOAs of Mobil synthetic motorcycle oil that actually had a significant amount of molybdenum in it! From my understanding, friction modifiers don't typically pose much of an issue in an oil of the proper spec for the application, and much of the recommendations to avoid them are due to a sort of false correlation between the lower-HTHS preperties of resource conserving oils and its influence on clutch slip. Another interesting thing to mention is that oils with very high levels of ZDDP are usually recommended against for wet clutches, such as Valvoline 20W50 mineral racing oil and Pennzoil 25w50 mineral racing oil, though I've used both as a gear oil in a 125cc 2T bike with absolutely no issues.

I think there is an update to engine protect.

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

There seem to be different versions that are targeted at consumer / trade.

I love this product man!! Mos2 is incredible

When asking companies like Mobil if it’s ok to pour in additives, they say no, and that the oil already has what’s needed to protect the engine. LiquiMoly sells MoS2, which is the solid version of Molybdenum. I’ve read that the moly included in motor oils, however, is an oil soluble or liquid version of Molybdenum. Is it really advisable to pour in the solid MoS2 into motor oil? I have seen how people have shown that because it is a solid immersed in mineral oil, it tends to separate out of the motor oil and sit at the bottom of the oil pan if left for a while undriven.

@123hoffie

Жыл бұрын

No advice on can that says to shake before use so maybe doesn't settle out.

@filiplaskovski9993

Жыл бұрын

Once it’s suspended in oil the mos2 doesn’t really settle out

If you ever do a third-party analysis on additives, always request a TFOUT test which is your thin film oxidation stability. You would be horrified to know that ceratec actually makes your engine oil oxidation properties worse (11% worse to be exact) i’m all about a quality additive pack added to quality oil, but never at the cost of a negative effect.

@bobirving6052

9 ай бұрын

It may provide friction reduction to offset the increased oxidation. Just change the oil slightly sooner. 8,000 miles instead of 9,000 miles.

my new truck revs smoother and get tiny more mileage. I can tell the improvement.

Thanks for the video. Q. For the masses, are 'we' still buying and adding snake oil additives? Is 10 min of idling an additional 300ml of special snake lube enough to make any difference at all? Does 500ml of additional additive from a bottle help, or mess up the already complex additive package of a top quality synthetic engine oil? I've been in the trades for approaching 40yrs, and taken a keen interest in lubrication information. I've never used an oil additive in anything I've owned, including rally cars and dirt bikes, and I'm yet to see a lubricant related failure. I've seen lots of failures, but none related to the lubricant itself...

@bobirving6052

9 ай бұрын

“Snake oil”? These products are already put in that bottle of oil you buy from the store. The manufacturer puts them in. Maybe you want some benefit over what your particular oil formula provides.

@Danger_mouse

9 ай бұрын

@@bobirving6052 I'm well aware that some of these additives may already be in the oils we use. I'm also aware that oil companies spend millions of dollars on getting the formulations and blends correct so that the oil performance is as expected. They test to get the various certifications for that product from the SAE and manufacturers so we know they're suitable for the equipment we're adding it to. How can someone with no knowledge of what is already in the product expect to 'improve' the oil simply by adding a bottle of 'magic juice'? At best it will have no effect, at worst it will run one part of the blend package way out of range and make it unsuitable.

what about MANNOL 9829 Ceramo Ester ? its contain bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate 97% and boron nitride 3% they wrote it on their sds

@alouisschafer7212

Жыл бұрын

it's good stuff for 6,50$ a can here cant beat that! hBN + a lot of ZDDP + Ester This additive will boost your ZDDP content around 300-400ppm which becomes very significant with full saps oils already at 1000-1300ppm of ZDDP in them which is plenty. Some studies have shown that above ~800ppm of ZDDP in engine oil yields diminishing returns.

@vinjefry9177

Жыл бұрын

​@@alouisschafer7212 thanks for your explanation mate !

@alouisschafer7212

Жыл бұрын

@@vinjefry9177 Its not information I found out myself :) Im just spreading the word... Mannol has some interesting Products and Forums love to have it lab analyzed and test things out for themselves.

Hi about to put truck serious oil treatment in my truck , wish luck.

lifter additive ?

Metabond Eco or Spirit have a full SDS .

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

It's pretty close, but the one that I could find wasn't entirely complete. if you add up the quantities you get to 91% on the high end or 41% on the low end: metabond.eu/files/20190924091123_sds_metabond_eco_2.1_en_2018.pdf

@addittzu

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, because everyone have to keep secret the product special magic additive. As i talked to Metabond about eco, they said that eco have up to 5% hBN. Metabond also have fuel additives , additives that are made from Lubrizol and Afton ingredients plus some extra additives. Addinol Super Light 5w40 had some additives from the SDS of Metabond eco and spirit in it’s SDS. With GT plus additive for manual gearbox, i saw that Metabond used a lot of additives that can be found in other gearbox oils sds from the Market . More interesting is why additives la like Metabond, Archoil or other brands can make some extra additives for engine oils. I saw a lot of UOA with lower engine wear when hBN additives are used . I ask you, that is your opinion about this :)

have considered using additives esp liqui moly that spends A LOT on marketing and is used by fanboys all over the world. but i just use top range Shell Helix Ultra and my car runs new after 250000 km 11 years and its just a damn Kia Forte 2.0. i change my oil every 14-16000km 8-9 months, which is way over the recommended interval of 10k/6 months. if Shell has invested so much into meeting Ferrari, BMW Merc engine oil standards i.e MB 225.1 BMW Longlife and promising excellent engine wear protection, why does LM think they can do better?

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

I’ve never personally used top treats. Maybe if you have a specific concern around older style engines, or you do some occasional track racing, or you have modified your engine then i see a use case.

So its snake oil then?

I think these additives are bad for the FAP ( espacially the friction modifier ). If Catrol or Mobil do not integrate these additives it’s because the risk unbalanced the standard of the oil. It can be dangerous to add additives because you unbalance your motor oil

Metals ' like a ( cheese ) could be BREATHING !!!!!! Whithout standard Covers !!!!

Hey Mr. Le! I wrote you a letter to your official gmail. Hope to get a reply from you:)

@LubricationExplained

2 жыл бұрын

Writing a reply now!

"Reduces wear further by 35%" Now what does that mean ? What it doesn't mean is that it reduces wear by 35% . We might assume (we know what that stands for !) that it reduces wear over that additional wear reduction obtained from using two different lubricants ?? VERY unspecific ! Also wear where ? Within an engine wear occurs in different areas under different conditions for different reasons. PLEASE UNDERSTAND MARKETING This is not lies, but it is essentially meaningless and designed to mislead. Basically you have found very little about these product even by digging. A VOA would likely tell more, but you have not done this.

@matsinkal

Жыл бұрын

35% of fuckall is still fuckall :) Just change your oil on time .

archoil

Wow you’re self taught in all of this 🤯 smart guy!!!!! I learn about all of this on my own too 🫡🫡👍👍👊👊