The progressively torn glove got me!

I liked the stair test. The resin and powder are great for coverage and deep lines that need to be filled. The resin only might be good for high detail areas where some of the detail needs to come through.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

just resin would be good if you have a flat surface, just make sure it's level and pour the resin on and it will self level to a flat area with minimal sanding needed

I tried out the resin and baby powder after watching your video. It works great! I used it to fill in some seam lines. Since you gave me a tip, I'll give you one. If you want a more precise pour for the baby powder, just duct tape over some of the holes.

@onestoptechnologies7305

4 ай бұрын

Could you just buy cornstarch in the can and use a spoon?

@DaveRigDesign

4 ай бұрын

@onestoptechnologies7305 probably. Don’t think additives in the baby powder make a difference.

That staircase example was genius to show what is happening. Great video!

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

Thanks, Glad you liked it!

I appreciate the return of the non-disposable glove.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

It seemed like the only reasonable thing to do :)

Awesome video! I love learning about how certain processes and steps differ at various points. Both of these resin coats have some benefits or drawbacks depending on the situation you need it for.

Wow! Great work and thank you for sharing your finishing process!!

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

My pleasure!

Great video, thank you. It would be great to see some destructive testing to see if one method or the other chips off more easily.

Thank you for the video! I’ve been using XTC 3D and haven’t been happy with it. I’m going to try your concoction.

Cool and how awesome you customize your Glove! Nice!!!!!!!!!

effective test. Thanks for showing us the process. I prefer the resin & powder finish.

Thank you for adjusting the music. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

I always love that airbrush pron! Gets me every time.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

Everything is better with a slow-motion sequence, Baywatch taught us that :)

Appreciate your humor, and helpful video!

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Very helpful. I've been putting off finishing a helmet but this has me inspired to tackle it soon.

Thank you for the very detailed video. Much appreciated

Interesting idea. Will save a lot of time sending in the future.

Good job on comparing the two methods! A few small gripes though: 1) when you first cured the resin+powder, you afterwards cured the resin only and resin+powder at the same time (so resin+powder got cured two times while resin only was cured one time) 2) please recommend to wetsand and use a mask while doing so as resin dust can be inhaled and quite toxic.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

Ya I though about the curing and there wasn’t a easy way to avoid it. I tried to cure the one side a short amount at first to get the resin to set up, then for the 2nd side cure longer so both sides got a similar time in the chamber.

I’m loving the curing station beat!

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

🤟

Wow, this one small change to my helmet finishing process to going to be so helpful! Glad I found this vid

Hi. Corn starch tend to create a kind of gel. In epoxy, we frequently use fumed silica to achieve a thixotropic state (does not run). It could work as well with UV resin and it usually does not require a lot to work.

Very nice comparison. Thanks for sharing!

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Thank you for your video, the staging is superb and your steps have taught me a lot about proper use! I subscribe and I like ;)

nice video, very informative, i especially liked the stairs. Ive only used 2 part resin so i may need to get some uv for a future project

@DaveRigDesign

Ай бұрын

I really like the uv for its drying time. No waiting for it to cure.

Your getting my sub just for saying “don’t forget to put on your gloves or everyone will remind you!” Love it

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

based on my last video I had no idea so many people that didn't know me were worried about my safety :)

RC plane hobbyists for decades have used similar methods for sanding and smoothing while using epoxy/resins. Instead of Baby Powder, we used a product called Microballoons.

awesome, glad you did this!!

Thanks to your previous video I was able to fix, fill and smooth 3dprinted mask.... The process works as a charm.. i used potato starch and anycubic resin (aqua blue). The weight ratio was 2:1 (resin to starch). Used two uv sources (365 nm ~ 17w optical power and 395 nm uv led flashlight. In most cases illuminated about 2-10 sec per layer. Sanded only after building up all the layers. It took me about 2 hours to fully smooth the full face mask. Also used a small spatula attached to the drill to ensure good mixing of components.

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

Awesome!!!

I haven't even gotten my printer in the mail yet and I already feel powerful! I don't have the space needed for a resin printer and I was wondering if I could get resin-like finishes with PLA. I already cast with UV resin on a small scale, so this is gonna be fun! Thank you!

Clearly the resin and powder mixture is more viscous and less subject to capillary action effects, but this demo is great for looking at smoothing larger surfaces with limited rising (versus sinking) detail. Would love to see the effects of doing this with a model with a lot of surface detail (like a model of a starship or something like that with a lot of varying surface details).

Gracias esta genial la explicación, lo usare en mi siguiente impresión

Great video! 👏

@DaveRigDesign

17 күн бұрын

Thanks 🙏

Oh dear! when you did the stairs my brain went back to high school and just thought "giggity". Got a project im working on for my defab course and might use this. Thank you for taking the time and filming it.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

yes... when looking back at the footage of the stairs I thought this may get some comments :)

Nice editing

@DaveRigDesign

Ай бұрын

Thanks 🙏

Encuentro que el acabado de resina+talco queda mejor, gracias por hacer la comparación!! Saludos

Nice work! THX ^^

Seems like they both have their place. the PR seems good for larger areas and in a more general use case. I think the thinner R might be good for much smaller areas. a toothpick or needle to apply it to thin lines to help smooth out the lines in the hard to reach areas. maybe even places you can't sand. just a light thin single coat just to take away some of the harshness of the layers in those thin lines.

I love the music the curing station makes me feel in a rave

@DaveRigDesign

2 ай бұрын

Everyone said in the previous video is looked like a night club so I figured I’d give it the musics to match :)

It's really interesting to see the viscosity difference between the two. What I would really like to see, would be how that compares with using a two-part epoxy tabletop resin. I Make my own filament, to whatever color specification that I want, with sparkle effect. I typically just essentially dip my entire model, in tabletop resin. And then I hang it to let it cure. And amazingly, the layer lines vanish, the color becomes so much more vibrant, and any effect particulates in the base material, is absolutely amazing. But what I most curious about, is how a high viscosity resin, which has surface tension modifiers designed to self-level, and enhanced coverage. Versus a grade of resin that is designed to shed off of the parts, and designed to be as thin as possible.

@PikachusGift

4 ай бұрын

do you think dipping the part and then spraying primer would work? I've been searching if people have dipped their prints in resin yet, as I've had the idea for some time now just haven't tried it. I know you use tabletop resin but I was thinking about using UV resin. Tabletop resin might be better though! something to think about and try one day :) thanks!

@DaveRigDesign

4 ай бұрын

Issue with dipping a part is it won’t leave a uniform coat. It will be thicker at the bottom as the resin collects at the bottom of the print. Maybe this is fine or if the resin is thin enough it won’t be an issue.

@PikachusGift

4 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesign that's true. I thought it might be an issue. Can you dilute resin and airbrush it on? or is it just more practical to be meticulous with a brush? lol

@DaveRigDesign

4 ай бұрын

I’ve heard you can spray resin but it’s kinda dangerous and messy. I wouldn’t suggest trying unless you really research the proper way to do it

@KCAwesomeness

2 ай бұрын

@@PikachusGiftI dip my parts using resin thinned with IPA, and then rotate the part in a homemade rig I have. It comes out pretty nice and even, then primer. There is an kinda infamous video a KZreadr did spraying resin, with no safety equipment either. It seems it works well but I would be really really careful with it. I’ve played with the idea before but I would use a sealed chamber with a UV light on the filter to polymerize the airborne resin to help reduce the health risk as it filters. Still wouldn’t recommend it though

NIce! Off to get baby powder

I actually still saw some print lines on the top of the resin only side and quite noticeable ones near and on the detail area again on the resin only side. That coupled with how much more sanding was necessary to smooth out the surface, makes Resin and powder the winner hands down

Normally, logic dictates that you should use a thinner resin mix for each coat. So I’d advise a thick baby powder resin mix for the first coat, a second coat diluted with more resin and a final one with pure resin. I also wonder if there’s a way to take this process into account at the moment of printing : making the model details slightly more pronounced so that when the resin is applied the « smoothing » of those areas match better the expected final result, and/or on the contrary had a bit of « waste » material on the areas that will be more heavily sanded afterwards.

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

I found the thin was just hard to control. I feel it’s best for flat surfaces where you can apply it and let it self level. Then you could just apply 1 coat and be done. On anything else the thick is better and I think all you need is 3 coats. 1st does 80% of the work, 2nd the next 19% and the last coat is just to fill the little pin holes/bubbles or missed spots. Could use glazing putty for this step also instead. Printing with this in mind could work in limited cases. Like if you have seams or groves making them extra deep would mean they won’t get filled in as easy.

Also I'd love to see a video where you do different ratios of resin to powder like 1:8, 1:4 and 1:2 powder to resin

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

Well the thickness depends on the use case and preference. There would be a limit to how much powder you can add but anything between that is fine

Interesting! One tip: Sand before the application of the resin, and you'll end up with a much nicer finish. :)

You can do adaptive layers too, so the top is not as steep of layer changes.

I might print in an M10 bolt hole in the underside to drill mount for a fast and even sand.

I think you could also use gesso, it is used in art stores to prime canvases, and that would give it grip, you give it a pass, you sand it and you could paint it

3rd idea that popped into my head as you did this… resin with powdered filament (the same filament that you used to print the object with) I was thinking it might be similar to mica powder pigment that is used with epoxy

Thank you 4 the music volume change

Great videos.

@DaveRigDesign

Ай бұрын

Thanks 🙏

The psychedelic magic mushroom rave cure scenes brought me here.

My experience with these is that, if youre not covering the entire piece, the edge where the resin stops and the plastic part meet doesnt have a smooth transition. There will be a small lip no matter how fine you sand due to the lack of adhesion of the resin to the part.

Which filament was used for the hemisphere? The color is absolutely beautiful!

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

It was polymaker blue

Thanks for sharing

Lol I feel a bit called out in this video and for that you gained a subscriber lol. But yeah I kinda figured it was just a viscosity thing. Something I noticed is that the powder seems good for big surface areas and the plain resin seems better for smaller areas that you need more fine control on. So it might be a case for using both techniques during an application for different parts of what you're working on.

Hi Dave. Is there a specific reason you used corn starch baby powder as opposed to talc? Curious. Very cool video!

@DaveRigDesign

3 ай бұрын

That’s what was available. :) I don’t think you can get talc based powder here anymore due to the cancer concerns with talc.

Do you happen to have a video on how you made the curing station with the black lights?

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

No but I have to make a bigger one so I may do a small video making that.

This is getting added to the playbooks of so many cosplayers as the definitive comparison.

At 15:20 there are still visible layer lines on the resin-only side. Could you airbrush resin to get it on more evenly? It may take more time and steps, since you're adding a tiny bit each time though.

I would like to see this attempted on objects with a lot of geometric features and right angles. Flat surfaces and corners, especially on a smaller objects. Like a box with a latch or a picatinny rail or hinges and mounts that need to fit together or need to fit other non printed objects with some degree of precision. Maybe even a set of slightly enlarged threaded bolts and nuts. The modular mounting system on thingiverse fulfills a lot of these suggestions. I'm curious how difficult the process would be and how much extra time it might take.

Great content! As a sugestion you sould try using Kaolin clay powder, you can find in extreme fine grit, and has better compatibility with resins, and other polymers. The final surface is great...

@DaveRigDesign

5 ай бұрын

Thanks :) Never heard of Kaolin powder, I’ll have to check it out.

This music goes hard.🤘

Nice video! I have a question for everyone working with resins. I want to use micro-extrusion to extrude some paste that exists of 80% metal powder and 20% resin to keep the powder togheter after curing. I can't use UV resin because the light will not cure the center enough (I think). Do you have any experience on resins that can do this on room temperature?

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

I've seem people make resin castings where they mixed iron powder into 2 part resin and then poured it into a mold.

Have you tested something like self leveling resins? I would be curious to see how well that would work to get rid of layer lines

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

It should work great on a flat surface :)

you could still see the banding on the resin only side of the close up beauty shots

I love how the blue glove hung on for dear life throughout the video. RIP blue glove

Very nice test. Could this be useful for "failed" vase print that is not completely water tight, to make them water tigth

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

Yup. Coating either the inside or outside would make a print water tight.

Id like to see if adding even more powder reduces the amount of coats you need to apply. basically turning it into something like a thin paste.

Great result, does the powder have to be cornstarch or will any baby powder work?

@DaveRigDesign

3 ай бұрын

Any would work. Where I am baby powder is cornstarch based due to the cancer concerns with Talc. But talc is a more traditional thickening additive I’m told :)

That's great! Now what would the process and results look like if you had used ABS?

@DaveRigDesign

4 ай бұрын

Should be a similar process. ABS is a little easier to sand and you have the option to vapor smooth ABS also

I’m interested in the can spray spinner drill bit! Can you 3D print that or did you buy it?

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

I designed it and cut it out on my laser out of wood. But it could be 3D printed also and glued together. Link is in the description the the files on my Etsy store

Would you mix powder into something like the xtc 3d?

Great video - really well explained and I'm about to try this out myself! However, as a resin noob, can I ask how long you hit it with the UV light? It's going to be on a helmet so I don't have a chamber - just a hand held lamp. Thanks :D

@DaveRigDesign

6 ай бұрын

It kinda depends on the strength of your light and thickness of the coat of resin. I’m working on a something now needing hand held lighting and I’m doing 20 sec or so. If you put a little resin on some paper or tinfoil and shin your light in it you can see or harden and get a idea how long it takes

@MossNada

6 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesign Thank you so much for replying - and also for the advice. I think have a failed helmet print somewhere I can try that out on. I thought it was going to be 15 minutes or something like that, so knowing it's probably going to be shorter is quite encouraging :D Keep up the good work!

How does it look with colored resin and no paint/primer

The glove is back!

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

always need to wear gloves when working with Resin :)

@AbuMaia01

3 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesignEven after you tear a huge hole in them rendering them useless? :)

Thank you for the video, where did you get the lazy susan from? thank you

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

It’s nothing special. I bought it at either the dollar store or Walmart

@pennakira

8 ай бұрын

thank you@@DaveRigDesign

I think both application processes could be useful depending on what you want to do with your 3D print.

i guess the powder would be a way to fill the lines but if you were to mold this and want to get a shiny finish you could do the last coat with only resin

For people without a UV curing chamber, is there a thin epoxy resin you'd recommend for this?

@DaveRigDesign

3 ай бұрын

if you want to use a 2 part epoxy I like Ice Epoxy amzn.to/3v0XH8s but you could also just get a hand held UV light amzn.to/3v6hbII

If you want a stronger coverage try adding aluminum powder, it makes it tough but can be brittle, great for scratches

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

Cool tip, thanks.

What is that black glue you used on the little cup?

@DaveRigDesign

2 ай бұрын

It’s just CA glue also known as crazy glue. The brand I’m using is Starbond but there are others. There is an Amazon link in the description also.

Couldn't you just prime a few times before painting, without the resin/powder resin coating?

hmmm.. baby powder. but which type to use? corn starch as current baby powder is made from or talc, which is what it used to be made from?

@DaveRigDesign

6 ай бұрын

here it seems they have switch to a cornstarch base due to the health concerns around talc I believe.

It’s good to note that resin can over cure and look worse because of it. So the baby powder and resin side is exposed to UV for 2 times as long reducing its initial luster. Also note that UV Curable resin will deteriorate when exposed to sunlight without sufficient post processing to seal them in.

Most interesting. How about on miniature terrain? BTW the gloves hahahahaha.

@DaveRigDesign

5 ай бұрын

Should work on Mimi terrain depending on the amount of detail on it.

Congrats for both videos! I'm thinking to add the technique to my printings. I haven't work with resin so far and the UV Cure time would be an issue for me problably. How long does it takes for the tests u made? Tks.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

Curing takes a minute or so. It’s the best part of using us resin :)

@neyperes5332

8 ай бұрын

Great! Wich brand do you recommend?

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

@@neyperes5332 any of the major brands should do. I normally use elegoo for printing so have that on hand.

@reikyjimenez9097

3 ай бұрын

I used this method for my print and used my wife’s nail Uv lights and it was still tacky so I put it out in the sun, still tack an hour later. Could it be that I put too much cornstarch powder? Or too thick of layers

@DaveRigDesign

3 ай бұрын

@reikyjimenez9097 you just need to wipe the print down with some isopropyl alcohol and it will remove the tackiness.

I lookin to get into 3dprinting is this like filling before painting? Whats the purpose of this

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

Yes, you would do this if you want to paint, especially a glossy finish. For a flat finish you don’t need to worry about being as smooth.

just out of curiosity, im new to the resin post-processing scene, what is the ratio of baby powered to resin?

@DaveRigDesign

4 ай бұрын

Really is just how thick you want it to be. Maybe 50/50 and adjust from there

@ChrisMowers

4 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesign oh perfect, wasn't totally sure if there was a magic ratio or not. Definitely going to try this on my next print :)

14:07 I love the fake slowmo 😎

@DaveRigDesign

5 ай бұрын

Thanks. Everything is better with a slowmo montage :)

I use the spot putty + acetone technique, the spot putty sands way more easy and helps save time in my opinion.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

it's just the opposite approach, thinning a thick product instead of thickening a thin one. :)

@oscargutierrez970

8 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesign even with spot putty without acetone I feel it’s much easier to sand since it’s softer , resin is much harder so takes more effort to sand , can even sand easily spot putty with a scuff pad cause it’s so easy to remove material. But your way is also cool never thought of adding baby powder to resin , I’m gonna have to try that !

Could you just use straight corn starch?

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

I would think so.

Does it have to be uv resin or can you use epoxy? What would the difference be?

@DaveRigDesign

5 ай бұрын

Epoxy would work also. Difference is drying time. I like UV because you can work it as long as you want and then hit it with the UV light to cure instantly.

I wonder if you used white resin for the print then used resin + baby powder + food colouring, could you paint and round the model in one go? O.o

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

This is white resin :) With the layers so thin though it is mostly transparent.

I prefer resin with fumed silica. An added advantage is increased tensile strength.

Could save some time tuning your printer and slowing down the jobs. Maybe check your MM per step for your extruder as well.

Hi, I'm also printing a sphere with lots of detail at the moment (Ahsoka map ball), do you think it would be helpfull to put some sort of plasticine or rubber like substance in all the details, and afterwards remove the plasticine/rubber substance, to better preserve the details ? This way you wouldn't have to worry about getting resin inside the details. Any thoughts on that and what sort of substance would be best for removal afterwards ? Thanks in advance.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

I’ve though of using plasticine or clay or wax. Just need to be something that stick well enough to not fall out but not so well you can’t get it out at the end. In my new video I tried dabbing the resin on over the detailed area and it worked pretty well. Maybe that’s a option if just going slow and apply carefully.

@iljacoveliers5834

8 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesign I was following a video about finishing the ball, but he had printed it with resin (so he didn't have to sand or anything at all I believe), myself I printed it with an FDM printer. In the video he printed it in black and then painted it in gold, the detailed lines and holes remain black. So I thought when using your resin method, that I need to somehow fill in the holes and lines with something else that I can remove after applying the resin, so that the black lines and holes become visible again. Because I think that applying the resin will fill in al the holes and lines ( there are so many ;) ) Maybe some of that white wood glue, because when that's dry, it's easily removable I think ? Another question is that if you cover the whole ball with resin, if you try to remove the wood glue, will you tear to much resin back off ?

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

@iljacoveliers5834 maybe it will be easier to use glazing putty for this project. It’s easier to control where it goes and you don’t need to worry about getting it in places you don’t. I have a video about that process also

@iljacoveliers5834

8 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesign Ok. Thanks, I'll be watching that !!!

I wonder whether the powder just increases the viscosity of the resin. Since resin comes in different thicknesses, is there a difference between powdered resin and thick resin? I would love to see a head to head if you can think of a way to “fairly” test the difference.

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

A thicker resin should act the same as adding powder. But resins for 3D printing tend to be thin so they can flow under the print bed easily. You could get special resin but if you already have a resin printer then you already have the resin on hand :)

@aaaidan

7 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesign Ah yeah of course, that makes so much sense.

How about adding baby powder to the resin during the printing process?

@DaveRigDesign

6 ай бұрын

Printing was done on a FDM printer so that may have been difficult :) Also when resin printing the resin can't get too think or it won't flow under the model between layers properly

I'd be curious to know what your results are if you were to use standard UV curing resin (the type you use with a silicon mold) with this baby powder process, instead of the UV resin made for 3d printers that you seem to be using in this video. Is there any difference between the two, not just in performance, but also cost?

@DaveRigDesign

8 ай бұрын

never used that kind so can't say.

@Old_and_Wise

8 ай бұрын

@@DaveRigDesign Might be something worth trying out in the future? I believe a bottle is not too expensive on Amazon or a local craft/art shop.

@nobodyshome6792

7 ай бұрын

The mold type doesn't work so well in a 3D printer. I had to replace my base plate after accidentally using the mold resin. The pieces did not print correctly either. Between the viscosity and the light used for layer printing it just didn't work out correctly for me. Maybe if I had done some test runs or checked into it, things would have been different. The bottle of mold-resin I had was actually a miss-ship. I ordered a bottle of one resin (that I had been using) from the place I regularly got it through, but received a different type of resin in a very similar bottle. I should have been more attentive to my purchase. Would have saved me a plate and film replacement....

@Old_and_Wise

7 ай бұрын

@@nobodyshome6792 I think you misunderstood what I was asking. To clarify, I wasn't asking whether he could use mold resin 'inside' a resin printer to 3d print something. I was asking if he could use mold resin with the baby powder in his layer line smoothing process shown in this video. I was curious to know if it is as effective as him using uv print resin (for this post process only), and whether it might also be a cheaper option than buying a bottle of uv print resin.

@nobodyshome6792

7 ай бұрын

@@Old_and_Wise fair enough. Though, I have found that the mold resin is more expensive from the source I buy resin from. (By about 4 dollars per half-liter.) I almost never use an FDM printer, instead preferring my vat-resin printer.

I'd like to see how it compares to acetone smoothing. I think the use cases are different, but surely there must be some overlap, so I'd like to see what the difference is when given the option

@DaveRigDesign

7 ай бұрын

Acetone only works with ABS though. Doesn’t have a effect on PLA

@alex.elgringo

6 ай бұрын

​@DaveRigDesign what solutes work with resin since acetone doesn't work as well. EtOH?

@HeliosKou

4 ай бұрын

​@@alex.elgringoI use spot glazing putty mixed with acetone. A 2:1 putty-acetone mix makes it like a slurry and then you can either paint it on or airbrush it on After it dries, you can sand it down and then reapply.

@alex.elgringo

4 ай бұрын

@@HeliosKou cool thanks!