Next shoe episode should be about crocs vs slippers and why crocs are superior

@TheDimeStorePoet

3 жыл бұрын

I swear I saw a video of Robbie climbing in flip flops....that video needs to make an appearance

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

I agree you're so smart and funny -defintely robbie and not culann

@404am3

3 жыл бұрын

That’s so obvious it doesn’t need a video

@peeted7105

3 жыл бұрын

Didn't Jimmy Webb climb V14 in crocs?

@SpAm-AcCoUnT

3 жыл бұрын

Dude, we all know we don’t use crocs because they’re so good it qualifies as aid.

We just posted one as well today guys!! Ha ha! We should probably have a group WhatsApp or something :-D

@YannCamusBlissClimbing

3 жыл бұрын

@robbie philips This one is much better than ​ @Lattice Training ... NO SERIOUSLY both complement each other really well thanks guys!!! the other one is here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fZ-XrM6xf8XUk5s.html

@leonakadir3833

3 жыл бұрын

very different videos though. I enjoyed yours earlier and im enjoying this one now. I have no wish or need for new shoes, im quite happy with what I have but its still all enjoyable :)

@Snowbound2643

3 жыл бұрын

Your video sucked peepee

love the editing style and fun references of this vid! great series

Great video, I really appreciate that despite being sponsored you also provided some information on other shoe brands 👍🏼

Robbie, this series is excellent and I really hope it becomes the go-to reference people use (especially episode 1) to link to people when they're asking about shoes in many places online

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Aww thanks man! I hope so to 🙂

That Vapor V catch was so smooth, I knew there had to be an outtake. Beautiful. Great video, thanks for the in-depth break-down!

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Haha! Of course - there are always outtakes 😅No problem🙂

This is such an informative video! I feel like I have to watch it again and take notes haha.

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

haha brilliant! I'm imagining you studying and taking notes :P

That's great guidance, Robbie - best I've seen, thanks very much

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

No worries 😜 thanks

Excellent insight! Thanks so much. 😁

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

No problem Mix :)

Honestly, I just buy shoes because of how they look.

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Fair play mate! 👠

@philipppuchner1115

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, good idea! I also always buy screwdrivers and other tools on how they look instead of the screws I wanna use or for what purpose i wanna use or need them. Best idea ever. No offence thogh.

@mcdoonaldsmanager8706

3 жыл бұрын

Same man

@lucaa4480

3 жыл бұрын

me too ahaha

for moderate/vertical limestone climbing I prefer the miura vs or boostic. Very percise, stiff, but still quite comfortable in the right size/toe-form (egyptian)

I struggle with stiffness Robbie, Do you think that age has anything to do with it? My wife says that I’m imagining things, is she just being kind?

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

If we’re talking about shoes, then yes... but we ain’t talking about shoes are we Rob 😅🍆

@robthomas5157

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips No..no we are not

@AlsRides

3 жыл бұрын

Perhaps you just need stiffer, more down-turned rubber? Good for overhanging caves and all that.

@shoqed

3 жыл бұрын

Imagining things actually might be helpful in your case

Scarpa Drago fit like glove, I swear to God. My new favourite shoe.

Your guides are awesome and have helped me a lot finding the right climbing shoes. Thanks man!

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

No worries dude :)

I’ve been searching for a breakdown of shoes by brand based on the asymmetry of the toe position. For example, the most asymmetric of the La Sportiva models is the Testarossa. For Scarpa, it’s the Mago. I want the full list!

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Hey lee, sorry for the slow reply dude. That would be an interesting comparison, but I feel in some ways it's a bit useless as there is so much more to climbing shoe design than assymetry e.g. Boostic and Drago are both very assymetrical shoes but are two ends of the spectrum in terms of application to climbing. I think what would be more interesting would be a brand comparison chart that focussed on shoes or certain styles of climbing

Where would you put the new scarpa boostics in this video? What are they best at? Rock types and all that jazz.

Lattice Made one too!! you guys were all together and planned that shit!! :-D so funny!

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

hahaha I've just bee told :P Amazingly we didn't plan it... but hey, great minds think alike

Maybe you missed this, but you actually do recommend the same shoes for multiple categories- the Instinct, Booster, and Drago. Not one to rule them all, but the Instinct line takes top honors by your analysis.

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Yep! The instinct line has the best all round features 🙂 but it isn’t the best in every category.

Great information, thanks Robbie! Is there any shoe you would recommend for foot jamming on single/short multipitch trad?

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Stephen, thanks man :) As I said in another comment somewhere, I think Vapor Lace or Velcros could be an option, especially if its a half size up - for roof cracks I actually use the veloce. But worth looking out for is the 5.10 moccassin and super mocs as they were designed specifically with this in mind. Scarpa don't currently have any dedicated crack shoes, but watch this space :)

No mention of Furias (original, S, or Air) in here! Do you find them too soft for outdoor use?

Just got myself a pair of Evolv Phantoms and they are superb for indoor bouldering. I know this doesn’t fit in with your Scarpa video but they really are a good shoe.

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Nah it totally does! This video is supported by SCARPA, but the goal is to help people think differently about their feet. Thats why each section I spoke about what type of shoes work well in different scenarios, what features you should look out for, and then showed SCARPA shoes that do that job and other brand alternatives. Psyched you found a shoe that works for you :)

@MF-CLIMB

3 жыл бұрын

Robbie Phillips ah ok cool. Anyone interested the Phantoms are fine in your normal street size maybe 0.5 size down for ultra performance! They are quite aggressive in their downturn so they perform well on those pesky pebbles on the walls, in terms of smearing I’d say that my Scarpa instinct VSR are far superior.

@ColeHennies

3 жыл бұрын

@@MF-CLIMB I also just got myself a pair of Phantoms. I am loving them so far! I've been wearing the Instinct VS for about a year now and the Phantoms fit my feet very well. As you said, 0.5 size down from street shoe is VERY tight!

@MF-CLIMB

3 жыл бұрын

Cole Hennies exactly the same as me. I use the Scarpa VSR for outdoor now and my Phantoms for indoor. I couldn’t get my foot in the 0.5 size down!

You never mentioned the edging king, Scarpa Boostics 😉 Love my Boostics!

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

I KNOW!!! There are a lot of good shoes to mention..... I love my boostics too!

@philipppuchner1115

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips I don't ike them since beeing resoled (and got used to soft shoes, despite beeing a heavy climber 83kg 1,80m, sporty, muscular and not skinny), because they feel like... na they don't feel anything or anyhow, that's the problem! For Boostics you need to have small positive footholds, typically limestone. Also the flat toe box with less curled up toes may be better to drive your big toe in low-rise (is this the correct english term for it?) holes. Now i use this resoled Boostic which feels like a ski boot made of concrete, for our new Bouldering Gym, which has the roughest surface i have ever experienced.

For the last few years, the Booster S was my one shoe to rule them all! I have a wide forefoot and love the toebox shape with the sensitivity. the magos are a close second. how does the new booster toe box compare? and fwiw how does the toebox of the instinct lace? i like the slipper, but the VS/vsr are way too narrow!

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Ryan, sorry for the slow reply - The new booster was built on the same last with some slight adjustments (i don;t know what they were, sorry!). The toe box should be similar though. The SR (Slipper Instinct) is built more narrow and shallower heel than the VS/VSR/Lace. The toe box I believe is quite similar though.

Well, if the first toe is longer than the second one, assymetric forms may be even more comfortable.

Do you ever climb with different shoes on each foot? I know it maybe sounds daft but I found when bouldering at my limit on certain probems and projects it sometimes helped as there was maybe 1 hard smear move for say the left foot above an overhanging roof so a more smeary boot for the left and downturned for a particular right micro edge etc could help send it.

@RobbiePhillips

Жыл бұрын

Absolutely. I do it all the time :)

Very informative,👌🏻👍🏻🧗🏻‍♂️🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿......oh I thought that catch was too cool for one take 😂😂

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Haha yeah, think it was 5 takes 😂 that outtake was the first one

@bazwax77

3 жыл бұрын

Robbie Phillips great content ,looks like you guys are really enjoying this wee venture and it comes through on the vids👌🏻 on a side note after ten “unusual” months here in Mallorca. My girlfriend,two dogs and I have had to bite the bullet and will be driving back to Edinburgh this weekend,might see you guys doing the rounds 👍🏻✌🏻🧗🏻‍♂️🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 I’ll be back at alien bloc ( lockdown permitting) if not looks like a bit outdoor stuff 💪🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🥶🥶...........anyway blah blah blah 😜✌🏻

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

@@bazwax77 haha yeah we do man! Loving it! ahh cool - hopefully see you around :) We will probably be between Eden/Ratho and Outdoors :) DOn't really go to Alien tbh. Lets us know if you're going to Eden though :)

@bazwax77

3 жыл бұрын

Robbie Phillips definitely mate 💪🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🧗🏻‍♂️ I will do.

Im heavy and have high volume feet. Scarpas are only for low volume feet rigth?

My problem is granite boulders have micro edges (as a dinner plate comes off from frost damage it leaves a sharp edge) and smearing. Do I go for edging or smearing shoes? Have Scarpa Maestros.

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Hey George, sorry for the slow reply - I would go for edging boots personally, but you can get a bit of best f both worlds if you get yourself a pair of stiff shoes a resole in a softer rubber. For example, after one season, I get my Maestros resoled in grip2 ;) Works a treat!

I fond that the vapor v are really good in the gunks they can edge really well but cant crank climb whell

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

What type of rock is the gunks?

@gremlin64_

3 жыл бұрын

Robbie Phillips Gunks quartzite composite

the instinct vs is my first pair and I love it, I percieve it as perfect for kinda everything lul, use it for boulder and sports see no issue

@bladee_city

2 жыл бұрын

how long did they take to break in?

@zarpeter_1

2 жыл бұрын

@@bladee_city a couple of days , very quick , love them

Hi Robbie; love the detail on this! I wear the Instinct SRs in Font (weird choice? dunno) and thinking the Dragos could up ma game. Are they built on a similar last? Many thanks for any input!! On another note, those SRs are just sitting there in the front row getting no love 😭 Their rubber is weird and their heel won't stay put, but oddly they're my favourite of the instinct range (which I swear by) - I'll turn to them on granite slab multipitch as much as I will in Font! Yet I can't bring myself to wear my VSW outdoors, and still remember with nostlagia the days when I tolerated the lace-y fuss of the Instinct Laces (because best shoe ever. except laces. ugh.).. WHO'S WITH ME ON INSTINCT SRs!?

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Hey dude, They aren’t built on a similar last actually. The instinct SR are built on a different last even to the other Instinct models (narrower and more sculpted/shallow heel). I don’t think it’s a weird choice for Font. The SR’s have a good moderate stiff edge on them and soft sticky rubber, so a good combo for sandstone. I find Dragos for smearing are much better and especially for steeper sandstone climbing and toe hooking (Dragos are my sandstone go to most of the time I’ll admit). What’s up with your VSR’s? If you can, get a pair of Dragos on your feet. They will feel really different to your instincts but they break in really nicely. They eventually become like a rubber sock. The softness is real, but I think once you get used to it it makes a huge difference to your climbing :)

@armeller5299

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips awesome thanks for the explanation! When I see the Dragos I always think 'damn those look like socks!'. I shall go try a pair whenever possible. I just seem to be wearing through the SRs faster than any other shoe ! I think I hadn't felt too much of a difference with my Laces because I upsized a bit (I like comfy) from my laces. Concerning Vs, I wear mine at street-shoe size but had to go with VSW instead of regular VS, which have become really hard to find in smaller sizes :/ Tough for us ladies with small but larger forefeet. This means my Vsws are a bit tight ; uber precise without being painful, but I really need to take them off often & not push on them too long. All that is just inconvenient outdoors. Thanks again for.your reply mate, and thanks for the cool vids!

Hey Robbie! Nice video! Only one thing.. I have trouble finding a decent "performance" crack shoe that fits to single pitch fingercracks and thin hands. Do you have any suggestions? I've tried Anasazi, but they don't work for my foot-shape at all!

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Hey man, so I don’t have tonnes of experience with different brand crack shoes. Couple of options: Vapour Velcro in a half size up from your tight size. 5.10 Moccasin (Super Moc is supposed to be amazing but they don’t make them anymore) Hoping Scarpa dive into the specialised crack shoes soon!!!

@Andyrevv

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips Thanks for the reply. I don't get why there is not more specialized crack shoes. Seems like there is an under-saturated market for it. But I'll be sure to check those out.

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Because it’s not a big market

How would these recommendations vary for various foot issues such as flat feet, bunions, instability in midfoot, etc?

@RobbiePhillips

2 жыл бұрын

I guess you’d have to account for this in your decision making. With flat feet, perhaps a less downturned/asymmetric shoe would suit? With bunions, look for a bigger toe box? And instability in midfoot, perhaps a stiffer midsole?

Where I could find information when to use Drago vs Furia S vs Chimera :)

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

I’ve done some guides on the scarpa.co.uk blog - but for quickness: DRAGO and Chimera are built to same last but with some small changes to the midsole and stitch pattern. Chimera has a better overall fit because of the way the stitch pattern pulls across the upper when using the laces. Also the chimera has a marginally stiffer midsole. The FURIA S is softer again than the DRAGO with a different last and heel. I’d say the furia S is a more specialised shoe than the others personally. I prefer the DRAGO and Chimera for most things. For indoors I haven’t found a better shoe than the DRAGO and for adaptability to rock the DRAGO and chimera are my soft shoe of choice in this area. I’d say where the chimera would be better than the DRAGO would be in situations where you might want more support through the toe - maybe a boulder that has some edging as well as smears, or maybe sport climbing on steep limestone or granite.

Thanks for the video, it was very informative. This is the first time I’ve heard that the instinct vs are the best scarpa for granite. I was already considering the instinct laces but now am even more. How do you think the instinct vs compare to the instinct lace? I’m generally climbing on granite in the Bishop/Jtree area. Was also considering the VSRs. Do you think they are too downturned considering I climb a lot of slabs?

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

The VS and Lace are very similar - I think the midsole is slightly longer in the lace and as the lace has more control over tightness you can generally get better edging from it. The VSR is softer in the rubber but to all intents and purposes has the same edging capabilities. I definitely found on JTree granite the VSR wore down quite quickly relative to Yosemite granite... might just have been the types of climbs I was on though as I was trying really hard stuff in the 13d/14a range on tiny razors and smears (feet were doing a lot of work!!!)

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Oh and also the VSR are not too downturned at alll for smearing

@Psilocy-ben

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips thanks so much for replying and for your info. I ended up getting the laces. They fit perfect and I’m really looking forward to climbing in them. May eventually get the vs or vsrs too. Thanks!

They dont sell the La Sportiva Python in the US.... :(

Vapor vs skwamas and solution comp do everything

When’s he coming out with the best competition style climbing shoes?

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Start of November we have the indoor video which will include competition shoes

What would you recommend for the scottish highland classic conglomerate? The lucky dip of climbing foot holds. 😂

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Ahhhh so I was actually up north climbing on the Camel a couple of months ago! As the footholds tend to be more like little stones there, I find something with a moderate stiffness in the midsole, a softer rubber and not too aggressive is ideal. For me in the Scarpa range I liked the Instict VSR, but equally a Vapor Velcro/Lace would be great.

@sidious-dy9rh

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips cheers robbie. 1 crag I still need to get over to, to give stone of destiny a try.

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

@@sidious-dy9rh Its amazing! Go for the no hands sit down rest on the stone when you get over there :)

@sidious-dy9rh

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips I will definitely go for it once it dries up again. It's only 25mins away from me. Cheers

I was told by the worker at the climb gym shop that as I'm tall - and despite mainly indoor bouldering- I should go for instinct VS over the VSR because only 'smaller people' need the VS as they have trouble breaking through the stiffness.. this is nonsense right?

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

🤣 it has nothing to do with your height. Very lightweight climbers can find the stiffness of the EDGE rubber and INSTINCT midsole a bit much... so the softer option is the VSR which has a softer rubber compound called GRIP2 albeit with the same stiff midsole. I have found that a lot also has to do with the strength of your toes, and climbers who are used to stiffer shoes also find the VSR quite soft for them. So it really does depend, but in my experience climbers in the 90+kg weight range tend to prefer the VS whilst those below 70kg are definitely more in the VSR bracket. I’m 80kg and I prefer the VSR for indoors/limestone/sandstone and break out the VS for certainty types of granite.

What are those white dragos on the thumbnail??

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

DRAGO LV (Low Volume)

and here I thought we agreed in the comments on the last climbing shoe video that crocs is the the best climbing shoe ever, so the shoe to rule them all is crocs right? don't keep that secret from us

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

HAAHA I don't want everyone knowing that SHHHHHHH!!!

For the pro climber Laura Rogora there is only one shoe for everything: Wild Climb Pantera.

What about the Vapor Lace?

@RobbiePhillips

2 жыл бұрын

The new vapour lace will be very stiff!

Can you actually get all of those shoes to fit well?

So la sportiva phyton is the best shoe

Drago LV clickbait! Any clue when they are releasing? Should be soon no?

@flip_lange

3 жыл бұрын

You can already buy them at some places now.

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah man they are already out :)

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Oh and the Drago and Drago LV are the same shoe essentially and I spoke loads on the Drago, so didn't think it was clickbait :)

@zethh6263

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips yeah I wasn't being serious bout the clickbait. Just haven't managed to find them anywhere yet, only place I've seen thats not just preorder is scarpa uk site but even they didn't have my size, so I didn't think they've been widely released yet atleast.

I just know you will say Neigh,but you can't honestly beat a good auld horse shoe

me with pythons: i can climb anything! also me whenever i have to edge in them: fuck

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

😂Yep! Soft shoes allround! I remember training for Yosemite and somehow getting it into my head that my Scarpa dragos would be good for layback smearing up El Cap... stupid!

Butora Acro

TC pros aren't that stiff. I can bend mine all the way around

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

How long have you worn them for?

@ryangamv8

3 жыл бұрын

@@RobbiePhillips about 1.5 months. They're like semi-stiff. Nothing compared to like an Anasazi imo

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

@@ryangamv8 oh wow! Hmmmm... I haven't worn a pair of Anasazis in years (I had old school Pinks and the velcros) but from what I remember they weren't as rigid as a TC Pro. Just throwing it out there, but maybe your TC is too big? Certainly the fit of Anaszi compared to TC Pro is really different. Anasazi are designed to be tight fitting, whereas TC Pro are designed to be worn as a comfortable all day shoe. I would suspect that Anasazi feels better on small edges generally as I would say it's a more Precise shoe, but the TC pro on the whole is more rigid. I would need to have a look at the Anasazi and TC Pro materials to really answer this - quick glance on the adidas website and they didn't provide any info annoyingly.

Pythons for edging? you crazy.........

@RobbiePhillips

3 жыл бұрын

Yo chad, so I haven't worn Pythons personally, but the alternative was more to show a shoe that has a softer rubber with a medium stiff misdole. I was told by a LaSportiva rep and Scarpa designer that the Pythons are that. It doesn't necessarily mean they are a great edging shoe, just that they are adaptbale :)

I liked the part where frodo fingered a shoe.

Really nice 👌 😍💋 💝💖❤️