I love how Adam just casually repeats and downgrades a 9a in the middle of a tutorial on clipping.

@Fonzleberry

3 жыл бұрын

Poor guys who are now 8C+ climbers.

@zeinfeimrelduulthaarn7028

3 жыл бұрын

@@Fonzleberry lmao

@noeljesus8641

2 жыл бұрын

Sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot the password. I love any tips you can give me.

@noeljesus8641

2 жыл бұрын

@Atticus Koa it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much, you saved my ass !

@atticuskoa416

2 жыл бұрын

@Noel Jesus Glad I could help =)

Adam's quickest way to clip? Skip that one and climb up to the next bolt...

@adamtadros1472

3 жыл бұрын

it takes 0.00 seconds to skip a clip, so efficient.

@lyssalud6781

3 жыл бұрын

just go climbing with a parachute no clips needed

@assistantgoogle8719

3 жыл бұрын

next time, I will ask to Alex Honnold what is the best way to clip. Answer, don't clip, do free solo :D

During this clipping tutorial, let me take a moment to downgrade the route I'm on.

Love the first bolt trick of pre-clipping!

@gagiotter4114

3 жыл бұрын

Agreed, that would have helped on some of my very sketchy starts

that first bolt trick where you climb up with the quickdraw already on the rope is so cool! i never would have thought of that in a million years on my own lol

I think it is a very important to consider the way the route goes to face the gate in the right direction, while in the video Adam says to put the gate just thinking about a fast clip.

@vazixLT

3 жыл бұрын

I second this concern

@Destort

3 жыл бұрын

wait, why does the direction of the route matter?

@nextoliver

3 жыл бұрын

@@Destort If the route traverses, say, to the right and you clip with the gate of the carabiner to the right, worst case scenario the rope can unclip if you fall. Takes some bad luck though, but still, in theory it can happen...

@matejeberle364

3 жыл бұрын

@@Destort The general rule is that the gate of the carabiner should face the other direction you are climbing so when you fall there is no chance that the rope will end up on the gate and therefore brake it or unclip it.

@tommarinovic6707

3 жыл бұрын

@@Destort You want to have the gate face away from the direction you are climbing. While climbing the quickdraw may lift or is pushed around and depending on the rock formation its possible that the gate is pushed open during a fall. When placed so its facing away you minimize this risk. Its a small thing and you always should think about how the quickdraw may move. There is no all time rule how to clip it depends on the rock.

Gate away from the direction of the next bolt is considered the safe way, most people watching this..should probably consider safety over speed.

@duncanwright8392

3 жыл бұрын

Can you clarify - do you mean the lower gate should be the opposite direction of the upper gate of the next bolt ?

@tylerlego41

3 жыл бұрын

On overhanging routes it's not going to matter as much. He's gonna be way more familiar with that thought process, but I was also surprised it wasn't mentioned. "When clipping stance is good, one can focus on safety by keeping the gates facing away" would have been a great quick one liner!

@lucaa4480

3 жыл бұрын

why is more safe?

@tylerlego41

3 жыл бұрын

@@lucaa4480 Because the rope will not be rubbing against the gate or potentially pulling it into the rock and opening it

I definitely always clip right after the crux, before I rest. Probably because I’m gassed, but I’ll give resting a shot before I clip. Thanks for that Adam

@mandorodriguez5530

2 жыл бұрын

Love subtle tricks like that!

I was expecting the same old basic clipping tips, but these were really helpful small details that rarely get repeated elsewhere. Thanks so much! The old saying goes "those who can't do, teach," and I'd add that usually "those who can do, can't teach." But you're proving me wrong.

adam, i really appreciate the way you "perform" in the climbing scene. the way you reflect the things, the way you climb, the way you live the thing you love ... in this clip you teach clipping mostly from a performance perspective. when we look on the direction of the bolt-carabiner - especially in the often more vertical climbs in the 5th or 6th grade - that

Adam, the trick of pre clipping the rope is wonderful! Your advices are so useful, thanks so much!

Great advice from Adam there. So logical and easy to understand. Thank you Adam.

I have learned to clip the gate against the climbing direction! Otherwise there is a chance to clip out the rope when you fall.. Difference is.. Adam never falls...

@phin422

3 жыл бұрын

How would you clip out while falling? That's not how carabiners work. You have to apply pressure from the outside to open it, not the inside.

@atromos

3 жыл бұрын

@@phin422 back clipping results in the possibility of the rope exiting the carabiner on its own. Ropes do wild things sometimes. If it takes almost no extra effort, I like to be as safe as possible but 99,999 out of 10,000 if not more it won't matter. Its preference mostly.

@MaxPhotograph

3 жыл бұрын

@@phin422 The rope going from the clip to the climber applies the pressure from outside..hold a carabiner gate facing up (direction the carabiner will be climbing) and pull the rope top down (like a falling climber).

@phin422

3 жыл бұрын

@@MaxPhotograph Yeah, I guess that makes sense. Never seen one done like that before, though.

@potential1337

3 жыл бұрын

It is possible, even if you have to be very unlucky! And a professional, if not the best climber out there, should know this and talk about it..

Hey man, just thank you for how much you’re doing for the climbing community. Good luck!

The “pre-clip in” for the first clip is awesome! Thanks for all of this! 😊

Fingers like a magician! Thanks for all the tips including clipping! Congrats on sending Sid Lives! It's been a pleasure watching ;)

So clear. Thank’s Adam!

Thank you Adam! These tips will help my climbing a lot

I'm learning so much from you Adam!! thanks a lot for doing this, Yesterday was my 4th time on the mountain although I've been for 2 years going to the gym, but your videos are super helpful for people like me! I was having a hard time clipping and now is much better!!

Thank you Adam four your advices 🙏🏼

This is a great video Adam so much information. Thank you.

He is so good person 👍 Thx Adam for always inspiring climbers around the world 🧗

Thabjs for the tips! Im going to start lead climbing soon and this was really helpful.

Adam Ondra gives a tutorial - it can't be better then this. Thank you!

Very useful tips!! Thanks Adam

8:00 I´m on the ropes for 26 years now, and that´s a neat little trick I haven´t seen before. Learned something today!

Thanks so much. I I really appreciate the tipps. Especially the one with pre clipping the rope and only clip the first bolt!! Thanks

My dear Adam, whether you clip the quickdraw facing left or right has little to do with your finger preference or clipping style... It has everything to do with the route direction and further moves pass the qdraw... For safety measures the friction of the rope (for the lower binner) and the friction/point of contact of the bolt (for the upper binner) will always dictate the qdraw direction. I think is a huge mistake to say that you shoud place the binner facing you (if that is what you prefer) if the rope will friction the binner´s gate. It can and will open and-unclipp itself on a fall. This is very well explained in basic safety chapters of how to rock climb. So, my humble sugestion is that as a climber you must be efficient in clipping with the binner´s gate facing either way, and with both hands. Best way I found while learning the craft was to clip a 1000 times watching TV or whatever (not climbing) to build muscle memory in spite of fear/stress at the crux. Hope this helps others to seek propoer safty qdraw usage and prevent avoidable accidents. Cheers and kudos on all your amazing progress and giving to the sport of climbing.

Always on time thanks you to make my Monday night better

I was taught clipping with fingers and have tried clipping with thumbs recently. Still need to practice it more. I feel like clipping with fingers increases the pump you usually get from climbing while the thumb is a different movement.

Nice tutorial! Still waiting your collab with Magnus 🦾

@MrChick1984

3 жыл бұрын

Adam could visit Magnus new gym, that would be nice.

Yeah the first bolt trick is really cool. Thanks Adam

Thank you for the the first bolt pre-clipping!

thanks for your vidéo Adam !

Thank you, Adam.

I really enjoy these Tip videos! - there is always something to learn :D

This is so useful, thanks adam!

What a clip! Thanks Adam

Wow all these tips really hit 🙏

Great tips, really useful thanks 🙏

Thanks again for this video.

Thx Adam! Next time i will get the first clip on my 4a!

Does screaming help clipping?

@jasperfeldschuh3644

3 жыл бұрын

definitely. It helps all aspects of climbing 😂

@JBereza

3 жыл бұрын

I hope that the next tutorial will be about screaming and how to use it in the most efficient way :-D

@earlgrey2130

3 жыл бұрын

Screaming always helps bruv 😁

@jakubsuchy6327

3 жыл бұрын

@@JBereza good tip for April fool episode

Great tips!

Thanks so much for the tips! It will be awesome if you can show your climbing knot. I'm a heavy guy and the 8 knot it squeezes a lot when I fall. Best wishes Adam.

@CoreyMost

3 жыл бұрын

You should watch the figure 8 knot series from the channel Hard is Easy. He goes over what makes some variations of the knot harder to untie than the others. Its a very good series and helped me fix my hard to untie knots. kzread.info/dash/bejne/gn6fpcOOhcvXl9Y.html&ab_channel=HardIsEasy

@HowardSnable

3 жыл бұрын

@Yokai Use this one and you'll be happy... kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y6mjwbGhocLNhso.html I always use the rethreaded bowline, or in german, doppelter Bulin, from day 1 I started climbing. Never had issues to open the knot. If you understand german, here's a well explained tutorial in german language... kzread.info/dash/bejne/pmig0Kh-qtbUkrg.html Stay safe... ✌🏻

@nicolaibatstad6881

3 жыл бұрын

He uses a single Bowline where his tail is secured with a stopper knot. If interested in other more safe tie-in Bowlines I recommend reading through this article based on Mark Gommers’ paper on bowlines: zenandtheartofclimbing.com/tying-bowline/

@linksgrunversifft4270

2 жыл бұрын

I‘d definitively would recommend a Double bowline maybe Even with a stopper knot. Single bowline makes me shiver…😵‍💫 I‘m 95 kilos and that works really good. But there‘s also a way to do the 8knot so it’s more easy to release, check out „hard is easy“ Channel 😊

@BananaWormski

2 жыл бұрын

Adam uses a bowline follow through and it’s the safest bowline you can tie into. Check out Ryan Tilley’s video on bowline tie ins

Was very informative Adam thnks fr the master class ,hope to see some more tutorials frm u 💕💕💕😍

Great stuff!

This was a super handy video! My clipping has gotten at least a second quicker and the 1st clip tip is invaluable. Cheers!

wow! I prefer the thumb technique over everything. This video changed my climbing game.

Great insight!

Gates in! This is topic has been settled, Ondra has spoken. #GatesInMafia

Thank you for that nice video!

Adam, thanks a lot, you're a legend!!! Two security things regarding the quickdraws... - I've read that both gates must be facing the same side, not one to the left the other to the right (changing one biner to clip comfortably) - The gates should be facing the opposite side you're climbing Correct me if I'm wrong, I just want to create good common knowledge

@earlgrey2130

3 жыл бұрын

This

@diegoamalfitano6831

3 жыл бұрын

@@earlgrey2130 jajaja This?

@francescomonini8882

3 жыл бұрын

True, but it s not a law. You want to make sure that the gate on the bolt moves freely and no rock feature interferes with it, side is not important. On the hanging biner yes it s safer if it s on the opposite of climber in principle, but if the biner twists it suddenly becomes the worst scenario. When gate is facing the climber might be a tradeoff

Really helpful

I was very glad to see Adam suggesting having the first draw pre-clipped onto the rope! Back in the eighties we would do this for entire trad routes we were trying to redpoint, i.e. every single piece could be pre-clipped to the rope, in the exact order we were going to place them, so this way each placement was a single motion, even when placing a stopper nut, a cam or just clipping a draw into one of the rare bolts. Except for the possible difficulty of reaching the bolts (and the weight of all those quick-draws), this method makes it almost as easy to climb a bolted route with no pre-placed draws as when you are just clipping into hanging draws.

@vincentberthierdebortoli1583

3 жыл бұрын

I would say no problem for the first bolt since if you fall beforehand, then your rope is useless. However, starting to the second bolt, if you pre-clip your rope onto your harness through a quickdraw, and then you fall, I guess you might just tear your harness as the first thing to be under the fall force will be the quickdraw clipped to your harness, not the 8 figure knot. I would not see it as very safe...

@TerjeMathisen

3 жыл бұрын

@@vincentberthierdebortoli1583 We might have been using longer quick draws at that time, there was absolutely no chance of a fall pulling the draws tight before the rope would reach the harness knot.

@vincentberthierdebortoli1583

3 жыл бұрын

@@TerjeMathisen Then I got you ;)

@8:20, I REALLY like that technique for the first clip!

thank you !

I' ll use the rest before clipping tech tip thanks!

Quick Question: As mentioned you can turn the lower caribiner each way depending on whether you are clipping with your fingers or with your thumb, but, Why do you want the gate of the upper caribiner always facing towards you? I thought the gate directions had to do with which way yo are climbing up from that bolt, and that it had to be the opposite way to the one you are climbing to.. cheers if anyone knows!

@lisa-koschat

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah I was told the same. The opening should face away from the route direction for safety.

@IliaNadyrbayev

3 жыл бұрын

This is the case when there is a fall potential and the resulting fall would possibly loop over the draw and unclip itself. This kind of thing, even though always taught is very rare. And virtually impossible on overhanging routes. So I would say don't worry about it too much unless it's a slabby section or there's a small overhang that the draw is on where the rope might then run a bit tight through the draw. In any case it's specific to each route and I'd say don't worry about it too much as long as you're clipped correctly and there isn't lots of rope drag. If the draws hang nicely and the rope runs nicely through it then it's very unlikely to occur.

@leoingson

3 жыл бұрын

@@IliaNadyrbayev I disagree, unclipping is quite common. Happened to me twice, and have seen it in mayb 8 other occasions over the years. But you have a point with steep routes - lessens the probability of unclipping.

@katarzynamazurkiewicz6012

3 жыл бұрын

I was told that you should especially pay attention to this if there's a risk of a huge sideways fall, so when the route makes a significant turn after the bolt you're clipping and that otherwise it rarely makes the difference. Makes sense to me.

@stefanoses.956

2 жыл бұрын

@@katarzynamazurkiewicz6012 kzread.info/dash/bejne/hoyqrs6rlreXh5s.html

Underrated meme at 9:48

Tutorial of clipping. First tip: skip clipping. Lol! I loved the video!

1:28 the sound i make in summer having a cold drink :)

Very nice video! I would like to see what he uses for skincare🙌

Thanks!!!

good tips!

Im wondering how many friends of mine will do that first bolt clipping trick on the weekend :D. Everyone is watching your videos over here! Their are just entertaining and full of knowledge, Shoutouts from Vienna, Austria!!!!!!!!!!!

@jameshowie9977

3 жыл бұрын

Haha, likewise!!

Great, I clip & rack up exaclty like Adam Ondra. Now there's just the easy part left, which is picking up 2-3 number grades. SEE YOU IN TOKYO ADAM!

All can be seen clearly in slow motion by reducing the video velocity! :) Fixing the rope first with the mouth to prolong the rope lenght for clipping is realy an old style, but sometimes still necessary. We climb nowerdays in order to clip easy ! :)Thumb clipping is a new style and especially in overhangs with the advantage to have a little shorter way to clip, especiallay when the carabiner shows in your direction, but it depends on a very good belayer that does not sleep and reacts immediatly when you need the rope for clipping! Many climbers also trust in modern , when the first carabiner is too high position. Adam is one of the very less climbers that use the single Bulin knot (too), so thumb clipping seems to me logically being a bit easier using this knot, but never use it as a hobby climber, trust only in the 8 knot or the double Bulin , nothing else!

Nice one 😬

Excellent tips! Especially some tips for advanced climbers wishing to push their grade. Yes, some things said were contrary to what is told to beginners, because the safety principles are true and necessary for the learning stages of climbing. But when pushing for new records and hard ascents, safer practices are reasonably sacrificed in order to reach a new goal. You think the recent speed ascents of El Cap can be accomplished by not simul-climbing? Or harder grades while fumbling with clipping or clipping every bolt (as opposed to reasonably skipping one)?

@2:52 Thanks Adam for stating this.

Thanks. Now I'm waiting for Honnold's tutorial in the matter.

Seš můj nejoblíbenější sportovec protože ti to jde ale hlavně protože jsi spravedlivý člověk.

@toniokettner4821

3 жыл бұрын

a protože jsi čech

Power ❤️

I guess 5.15 climbers don’t care about gate direction but I have personally had the rope unclip from the quick draw because the gate was facing the direction of the climbing moves when it should be the spine of the QuickDraw facing the next moves.

Hey there Adam, thanks for all those information and the tips and tricks. Think there are a lot of people needing those few percent you can get back by clipping fast and easy. One thing I need to admit due to safety reason: the direction of the upper biner of that quickdraw can’t be determined by how I like to clip more than on where the route leads. If I climb above the quickdraw on the right the biner needs to be directed with gate to the left and otherway round. Its a matter of safety due to the upper biner is able to unclip when turning and pressing on the bolt from above. This is something mostly happening on steep as well on slabby routes but think it has to be mentioned. Think you know about that and maybe it got lost in your otherwise amazing clip. Thanks for sharing quality content with the climbers community 😉😃

A little piece of advice for newbies. Never let any finger get trapped between the carabineer and the rope when clipping, even for a microsecond. If you fall right at that moment the rope will press your finger against the carabineer and you'll get a very very nasty injury, at least a broken bone if not worse. For example, with the thumb method, the thumb should never pass through the gate, it just pushes the rope but always stays outside the gate.

Love the videos!! Would you ever do a collab with Magnus Mitbø?

@saulsarry

3 жыл бұрын

They had one planned apparently, then covid happened

Did you use the backwards thumb clip a lot when you were younger? I like this method and I remember learning it from watching videos of you climbing.

Your way of clipping is super fast, but isn't it less safe? The gate shouldn't face the direction you are climbing, so if you climb diagonally to the right, it's much safer to have the gate on the left side. And with your technique, it's always facing the direction of your climb

i love the idea clipping into the quickdraw with the rope then the wall but i worry about potential back clipping with that

I like the idea of clipping the first quickdraw in the rope before climbing to get easier for first bolt but it could be a problem knowing exactly the arm you will use when you try to flash something. when it looks to dangerous I prefer not doing a full lead climb by the use of a quick stick.

I was just thinking about you making a clipping video the other day😭

One thought, he seemed to say it was your choice which way the biner opened, depending on what you find easiest. (4:22) Is gate side away from direction of travel no longer a thing? If your route is going up to the right, don't clip with your gate towards you because it's easier, learn to clip both directions. Maybe I misunderstood.

@devieilleroche

3 жыл бұрын

I thought the same

@nicolaibatstad6881

3 жыл бұрын

I thought that was the norm too for making it safer to not be clipped out during a fall..

Clipping technique? Great! But please do a video where it's WAAAAY slower, and from even better angles, so I can see exactly how you do it :) Thank you :)

Hello Adam!

nice

It´s interesant to know that if the route or the section is in diagonal or horizontal, you have to put the carabiner with the gate far from the diagonal direction.

I clap for the clip clip!

Sweet! Now I just need a rope, quick-draws, a belay device, someone to go with, and the know-how to sport climb outside! For now I’m going to keep enjoying these awesome videos and my gym bouldering and top-roping.

This guy is a pretty good climber.

@banmadabon

3 жыл бұрын

Understatement of the century...He climbs as a f...ing spider!

How do you rack your quickdraws when you are trad climbing and need to extend pieces? Quickdraws or cams/nuts in the front loops?

Adam, how do you feel about the difference between redpoint/pinkpoint, where the draws are pre-hung or not?

@sweatfootm

3 жыл бұрын

Pinkpointing is easier essentially 100% of the time if you are projecting or climbing at your limit. One. Hundred Percent. It seems barely anyone cares about the difference anymore because pinkpointing, whether its 7A or 9A, is basically the norm now. Well, maybe Jens from 8a.nu cares ...

@GavynPendleton

3 жыл бұрын

My understanding is that a pink point is only a thing when trad climbing. If the gear is pre-placed it is not a send (redpoint), but for bolted sport climbs climbing with draws on the wall is still considered a proper redpoint.

Toprope forever forever Toprope!

Adam, wasn't that said somewhere, that acutally carabiner gates should never be facing rope direction but should be opposite to it? Because falling rope could unclip them?

Sick.

@theperserker

3 жыл бұрын

video is 11min long and 1min after the upload you comment "sick" ok... clown :D

@noahk1031

3 жыл бұрын

@@theperserker I know its going to be good. What do you have against clowns?

@theperserker

3 жыл бұрын

@@noahk1031 of course...but "sick" is something you can't really say without watching :D nothing...i just find it amusing, lik clowns^^

Italy is great ! I mean West Europe of course

Surprised to see no security considerations regarding gate orientation

@PapousWebNode

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, this is really strange. I always thought the gate should be oposite to direction of climbing.

@kedpik

3 жыл бұрын

@@PapousWebNode I learned exactly the same thing, but more like it's better to opposite it, not totally essential...

@nicdes5540

3 жыл бұрын

As long as you don't back clip the direction doesn't matter, it's only safer to have it opposed where you climb just in case you back clip, then the rope can't come out

@gavin8615

3 жыл бұрын

@@nicdes5540 oh man this makes perfect sense, i was always taught to do it but could never understand why! Now it is clear

@screew708

3 жыл бұрын

@@nicdes5540 It does still matter even when you don't backclip. There is a chance that the rope may unclip itself especially if the route is traversing. It is quite unlikely though especially on sport routes which are usually quite straight.

It would have been nice to have a zoom slow motion with explanations when he clips

Never thought of clipping the first clip like that, definitely gonna start doing that.