An add not even 10 seconds in. You’re a piece ofshit. I won’t be following.

Great video! I'm new to this and have been struggling with inlays for a month. This is the first video that I've seen that explains it in a concise, easy to understand way with just the right amount of detail. Well done!

Thank you for this instructional video! I am new to CNC routers. ( I have worked with wood all my life and worked over 20 years as a machinist as well) I like designing in Vcarve Pro and these type teachings helps very much! 71 yrs young, BTW

The BEST detail description and explanation of this I've seen so far - thank you!

Thank you very much for an excellent tutorial. You are the first one to actually explain the cutting depths on the pock and plug understandably. Keep up the good work.

Greg - thanks so much for making this video. You are a great, clear explainer!

FINALLY! Someone explains it in plain English. I've been looking at CNC inlay videos for weeks. One guy even said "I don't know what they mean or do, but set them like this and it should work" LOL. Thanks Greg

Great tutorial and really helped me complete my first inlay, one thing I learnt was that if you use the clearing tool option it's going to assume that there is no material above the start depth which means your tool will plunge to the start depth plus your pass depth which could be problematic. You will want to add a pocketing tool path set to your start depth for your clearing tools ahead of the vcarve/clearing paths.

Hey Greg, I have watched your video many times and I decided to try my first V_Carve inlay! The first 2 attempts were CRAP!! The 3rd went great until I tried to match the plug?inlay with the pocket and the plug fit but only went in a tiny amount. I was trying to have as little gap between the plug/inlay and the pocket piece so I set the start depth at 0.025 and the fat depth to 0.175. I went back to the internet and I found the answer again in your video. I had the flat depth and the start depth reversed. It looks great now! Thanks man!!

I'm still so blown away at how V-Carve's "drafted" inlay allows for such fine detail, it's amazing!

Nice tutorial, but final result was shown maybe 5 or 6 frames and had problems. The URL is illegible. IMO, you should have noted this issue and proposed a solution. Thanks.

Greg, Thank you for explaining this in your own style. It's the best explanation I've heard so far. I'm looking forward to some successful "test run" projects in the near future thanks to you.

Well explained Greg and cool results. So many cool things could be done doing this. Its mind boggling.

Great video !! I wish all VCarve videos explained the steps as well as you did. I'm just getting started and trying to learn how to use them. The feeds and speeds are giving me the most trouble.

Thank you for this nicely done video. After watching some others on this subject, I considered doing one that filled in the missing info like what you did. I especially wanted to answer the "I don't know why this setting works, it just does" comment in the other video. You explained it nicely. However, leaving a 0.100 cavity below the plug starts to be a problem with large inlays because you are never going to fill that cavern with glue. It ends up being a hollow pocket with glue at the bottom. This can be fixed by setting the pocket bottom depth a lot shallower at .115 or .120 and then running everything else the same. Of course, this comes with the warning not to overdo the glue. I like your idea of setting the start depth for the pocket at .010 to allow some sanding. That's a super simple way to make sure those fine details are precisely located after sanding. I experimented with a few different techniques and different woods to see how to make those super fine details turn out a bit better. I found that slower feeds of around 30 to 40 ipm and making several passes tends to keep the chip-out to a minimum. The extra time waiting for the table to finish cutting is well worth the better finished product. Cherry is especially sensitive to chipping on fine details. Walnut is about indestructible. There is no reason to slow down the end mill passes since nothing the end mill cuts shows up in the final product. I run those as fast as my router can keep up. Usually around 90 to 120 ipm with a quarter-inch bit and 60% step over.When cutting the plug, V-Carve can compensate for the extra .1 dig on the first pass by forcing multiple passes and edit the first pass to be .001 deep. In reality, this makes the first pass cut depth .101. This is much easier than offset zeroing or making 2 cut files. One last tidbit that people may find useful: If you do inlay on something that doesn't fit in your band saw (or don't have a band saw) you can run a surfacing pattern with an end mill bit to simply disintegrate the plug right down flush with the surface. This allows you to inlay into anything that fits on your table.

Nicely done video, very clear and overall a quality production. Thank you!

That's a great job Greg . That somewhat makes it easy to do a complicated inlay.

Great Greg! Very helpful. I was looking to try these. Thanks!

glad I happened to stumble on this vid, I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out the inlay method. Thank you for sharing

Explained very well with the drawing, helped me a lot, cheers