Your Hoyt bottom cam is shimmed with the same pre-lean that I put on all of my PSE Hybrid cam bows. I learned the hard way to NEVER take all of the pre-lean out of the bottom cam. It makes these bows impossible (for me anyway) to tune for a bullet hole with the limb driven rest I prefer. It seams counter-intuitive, but the bottom cam should be slightly / leaning at brace so that the gap from string to arrow with the arrow held against the bottom cam is between 1/4" and 3/8" near the peep. I love the hybrids since you don't have to worry about shimming the top cam. Shim it center and just twist the yokes to tweak it when paper tuning. I have one to do tomorrow for a guy that took his PSE to an established PSE PRO SHOP and the tech could not tune it. I told the HARD HEADED kid that the bottom cam needed shimming because it was dead even with the string, but he didn't believe me and took it to the "pros" to tune it. So he called me back today saying that the guy at the pro shop couldn't tune it after working on it for 3 hours.
@TotallyFred Жыл бұрын
Thank you! I was worried about my cam being slanted. I had no idea it was called cam lean and that was even a thing. I thought my bow had a problem :-) Best explanation on shim tuning I have seen.
@BzHard8 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! I'm new to archery and this helped immensely.
@Shockstar764 жыл бұрын
Glad I found this video as I'm trying to determine if my problem is related to a bad tune and cam lean. I have owned the Carbon Knight at 60lbs for the last few years and it's still my current hunting bow. It is very accurate and an easy shooter. I did purchase a Realm X in 70lbs end of last year when I was out of town because the shop owner called to me as I was leaving and said he was marking down the bows to $800 so even though it wasn't my local shop and I was out of town I pounced on it which in retrospect may not have been a good decision. We had a very well known target bow shop here who did excellent set-ups and so that was why I did buy figuring I'd just take it to him. Little did I know that they were struggling and about to close shop so the set-up wasn't great I would find out later. My bow does shoot very accurately but it felt like garbage on the draw and even though I didn't draw this specific bow at the shop I had pulled a few of the new Bowtech's my friends had that were 70lbs and they were easier to draw at 70lbs than my Carbon Knight at 60lbs so I thought nothing of taking his last Realm X which was 70lbs. I finally took it to another Bowtech shop that has a good reputation and they found I had a bad bearing in the flex guard so Bowtech is sending a new bearing. The bearing was rough but not seized. He also said my cam lean was out of control and showed me how the laser barely hit the outside axcel of the opposite cam and then where it should hit per the manual. He didn't put it on the draw board yet to verify the timing was on at full draw but at rest the timing lined up pretty good. So all that history is to ask the final question: Is there a chance that my Realm X was really hard to draw at 70lbs because of the cam lean and bad bearing or did I just buy bow that's too heavy and my friends really aren't set at 70lbs? To give some reference I'm a 31.5" draw, 6', 215lbs, and workout hard on a regular basis. Actually, last Friday I was doing sets of bent over dumbbell rows and my current weight is 70lb dumbells for a sets of 12. The first 8 reps are easy and than by the 12th I struggle. I use good form by retracting with my back and not my biceps. Not sure if that additional info is helpful but obviously I'm confused by this bow being a struggle you would think I'd be able to pull it at least once without almost blowing a vein. I get my bow back in a week but was looking to pick your while waiting. My cables are routed right but on the draw board at my club I noticed mid draw that the cables rubbed but that's probably because of the lean right?
@mtladd47052 жыл бұрын
Thanks for explaining this Kris.
@RushOutdoors8 жыл бұрын
Great Info Kris thank you!
@Mikesacco1B7 жыл бұрын
Great video, very helpful.
@dubmacniners8 жыл бұрын
Great videos brother! Always appreciated your input on AT as well! WCork on AT
@perrysnopeep7 жыл бұрын
Great info thanks Kris...
@XxPackerManxX3 жыл бұрын
I was having a bad right tear that I couldn't get rid of. I put the shims on the other side the factory installed and now it shoots perfect bullet holes. Leads me to believe Obsession's quality control is not very good.
@pensnut08
2 жыл бұрын
Mine is driving me NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@clynge2 жыл бұрын
Great video 👍
@sorenjensen88674 жыл бұрын
Really excellent vid, thanks for making it ☺️
@kriswall1860
4 жыл бұрын
Oldie but goodie. Thanks for the comment.
@1yanny17 жыл бұрын
nice video again...I was about to suggest rotating your nock on the bareshaft that seems weak. I have found this to help when bareshaft tuning and broadhead tuning, then you quickly covered it. Most people would have missed it but I caught it. You know your stuff.Very refreshing to see somebody on youtube with a solid understanding willing to help others.
@kriswall1860
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks again Steve. I wish I had more time to make videos. I enjoy doing them.
@jessewilliamson65967 жыл бұрын
What about if you are getting good bullet holes on paper, but there is a little cam lean on the top cam, is it acceptable to just leave it like that? Or is it better to make sure your sting is centered perfectly on your cams and to keep adjusting it?
@kriswall1860
7 жыл бұрын
Jesse Williamson There's nothing wrong with either cam having some lean as long as it's not excessive. Since the cams move during the draw cycle, most of the time you'll have some either at brace or full draw. It's best to have them straighter at full draw. If your bow is tuning with some cam lean and shooting well, leave it alone and don't worry about it.
@boufont277 жыл бұрын
Are you setting your center shot on your rest first by measuring it based on factory spec, then shimming or yoke tuning?
@kriswall1860
7 жыл бұрын
Correct, I set the centershot and then do most of the horizontal flight with the yokes or shims. I don't mind moving the rest a tad, but generally I don't have to.
@boufont27
7 жыл бұрын
Right on. I have have some slight cam lean on my carbon spyder 30 and wondering if I need to mess around with trying to fix it. I have my centershot around 2cm and have it yoke tuned to shoot bullet holes. Walk back tuned it and have a slight tear. Not much of one but I'll probably lose sleep over it. Thinking about swapping the shims. When you take the cam off to swap shims, do you relax the limbs all the way to take it off? Or do you take the cam off with the limbs under load? I have a LCA EZ Press.
@kriswall1860
7 жыл бұрын
You won't need to shim the Hoyt unless you wanna play with the bottom which I hardly ever do. My Hoyts all shoot best with some prelean at brace and maybe a tad at full draw, or close to straight. I don't worry about the lean unless it's excessive. I've yet to have one, or tune one, that I couldn't fix horizontal flight with the yokes.
Пікірлер: 22
Your Hoyt bottom cam is shimmed with the same pre-lean that I put on all of my PSE Hybrid cam bows. I learned the hard way to NEVER take all of the pre-lean out of the bottom cam. It makes these bows impossible (for me anyway) to tune for a bullet hole with the limb driven rest I prefer. It seams counter-intuitive, but the bottom cam should be slightly / leaning at brace so that the gap from string to arrow with the arrow held against the bottom cam is between 1/4" and 3/8" near the peep. I love the hybrids since you don't have to worry about shimming the top cam. Shim it center and just twist the yokes to tweak it when paper tuning. I have one to do tomorrow for a guy that took his PSE to an established PSE PRO SHOP and the tech could not tune it. I told the HARD HEADED kid that the bottom cam needed shimming because it was dead even with the string, but he didn't believe me and took it to the "pros" to tune it. So he called me back today saying that the guy at the pro shop couldn't tune it after working on it for 3 hours.
Thank you! I was worried about my cam being slanted. I had no idea it was called cam lean and that was even a thing. I thought my bow had a problem :-) Best explanation on shim tuning I have seen.
Awesome video! I'm new to archery and this helped immensely.
Glad I found this video as I'm trying to determine if my problem is related to a bad tune and cam lean. I have owned the Carbon Knight at 60lbs for the last few years and it's still my current hunting bow. It is very accurate and an easy shooter. I did purchase a Realm X in 70lbs end of last year when I was out of town because the shop owner called to me as I was leaving and said he was marking down the bows to $800 so even though it wasn't my local shop and I was out of town I pounced on it which in retrospect may not have been a good decision. We had a very well known target bow shop here who did excellent set-ups and so that was why I did buy figuring I'd just take it to him. Little did I know that they were struggling and about to close shop so the set-up wasn't great I would find out later. My bow does shoot very accurately but it felt like garbage on the draw and even though I didn't draw this specific bow at the shop I had pulled a few of the new Bowtech's my friends had that were 70lbs and they were easier to draw at 70lbs than my Carbon Knight at 60lbs so I thought nothing of taking his last Realm X which was 70lbs. I finally took it to another Bowtech shop that has a good reputation and they found I had a bad bearing in the flex guard so Bowtech is sending a new bearing. The bearing was rough but not seized. He also said my cam lean was out of control and showed me how the laser barely hit the outside axcel of the opposite cam and then where it should hit per the manual. He didn't put it on the draw board yet to verify the timing was on at full draw but at rest the timing lined up pretty good. So all that history is to ask the final question: Is there a chance that my Realm X was really hard to draw at 70lbs because of the cam lean and bad bearing or did I just buy bow that's too heavy and my friends really aren't set at 70lbs? To give some reference I'm a 31.5" draw, 6', 215lbs, and workout hard on a regular basis. Actually, last Friday I was doing sets of bent over dumbbell rows and my current weight is 70lb dumbells for a sets of 12. The first 8 reps are easy and than by the 12th I struggle. I use good form by retracting with my back and not my biceps. Not sure if that additional info is helpful but obviously I'm confused by this bow being a struggle you would think I'd be able to pull it at least once without almost blowing a vein. I get my bow back in a week but was looking to pick your while waiting. My cables are routed right but on the draw board at my club I noticed mid draw that the cables rubbed but that's probably because of the lean right?
Thanks for explaining this Kris.
Great Info Kris thank you!
Great video, very helpful.
Great videos brother! Always appreciated your input on AT as well! WCork on AT
Great info thanks Kris...
I was having a bad right tear that I couldn't get rid of. I put the shims on the other side the factory installed and now it shoots perfect bullet holes. Leads me to believe Obsession's quality control is not very good.
@pensnut08
2 жыл бұрын
Mine is driving me NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video 👍
Really excellent vid, thanks for making it ☺️
@kriswall1860
4 жыл бұрын
Oldie but goodie. Thanks for the comment.
nice video again...I was about to suggest rotating your nock on the bareshaft that seems weak. I have found this to help when bareshaft tuning and broadhead tuning, then you quickly covered it. Most people would have missed it but I caught it. You know your stuff.Very refreshing to see somebody on youtube with a solid understanding willing to help others.
@kriswall1860
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks again Steve. I wish I had more time to make videos. I enjoy doing them.
What about if you are getting good bullet holes on paper, but there is a little cam lean on the top cam, is it acceptable to just leave it like that? Or is it better to make sure your sting is centered perfectly on your cams and to keep adjusting it?
@kriswall1860
7 жыл бұрын
Jesse Williamson There's nothing wrong with either cam having some lean as long as it's not excessive. Since the cams move during the draw cycle, most of the time you'll have some either at brace or full draw. It's best to have them straighter at full draw. If your bow is tuning with some cam lean and shooting well, leave it alone and don't worry about it.
Are you setting your center shot on your rest first by measuring it based on factory spec, then shimming or yoke tuning?
@kriswall1860
7 жыл бұрын
Correct, I set the centershot and then do most of the horizontal flight with the yokes or shims. I don't mind moving the rest a tad, but generally I don't have to.
@boufont27
7 жыл бұрын
Right on. I have have some slight cam lean on my carbon spyder 30 and wondering if I need to mess around with trying to fix it. I have my centershot around 2cm and have it yoke tuned to shoot bullet holes. Walk back tuned it and have a slight tear. Not much of one but I'll probably lose sleep over it. Thinking about swapping the shims. When you take the cam off to swap shims, do you relax the limbs all the way to take it off? Or do you take the cam off with the limbs under load? I have a LCA EZ Press.
@kriswall1860
7 жыл бұрын
You won't need to shim the Hoyt unless you wanna play with the bottom which I hardly ever do. My Hoyts all shoot best with some prelean at brace and maybe a tad at full draw, or close to straight. I don't worry about the lean unless it's excessive. I've yet to have one, or tune one, that I couldn't fix horizontal flight with the yokes.