Links to ALL products I recommend in the description of this video!

Every apartment building should have these kind of walls between apartments!! This is for preventing mental issues because of annoying noises coming from other apartment. - Loud music. - Home parties. - Apartment been using as loud hobby space. - Music studio. - Daycare with ADHD kids that going wild. - Dog park / professional dog sitter. - Laundry facility. Anything else?

@user-nu1vn3yy9s

8 ай бұрын

Old ladies speaking near your door or closed window. My triple pane German design window, with special noise reduction features can't protect completely. Would say their lethal radius is at least 30'.

@cjamesfox

8 ай бұрын

Nothing would fix the hallway to the front door...

@Stan_in_Shelton_WA

8 ай бұрын

you also have ceilings and floors. Double walls are nothing new, just too expensive for most builders to incorporate.

@Mitch-Hendren

8 ай бұрын

​@@user-nu1vn3yy9s ahh but think of all the local gossip and scandal you'd miss if you couldn't hear them 😉😉😁😁

@owg952

7 ай бұрын

- Gay dudes fuckin'.

When I purchased my first property in California, it was a condo (30 years ago). We moved in while the complex was being built. The construction between the units was exactly as you are showing. I was able to test my stereo and walk into the unit next to mine. I put the stereo up louder than I would listen to it. It was amazing. I know that the ceilings and floors were separate too. I couldn’t check the unit above us.

So as a theater builder I have done "Double Walls" by using a 2x6 top and bottom plate and then placing the 2x4 suds on 24" centers on one side of the 2x6, that make one side of the walls. Then using the 24" on center spacing but placing the other side on the other edge of the 2x6 to make the second wall on the other side. With this setup your studs are 12" centers along the length of the wall but alternate every other stud to one side of the 2x6. You can also do it with a 2x8 with 2x4 studs or 2x6 studs if you need the strength on a load bearing wall. This decouples the sheet rock or sheeting from each side of the wall and helps save space.

@Chris_at_Home

8 ай бұрын

I did something similar for a friend that had an ad business. He was located next to a car wash and need a soundproof room for the talents to do radios ads. Our house is double studs 2x4 walls with a 2x8 top plate. The walls are filled with closed cell foam to R-40. It’s almost too quiet and sometimes I feel like putting some microphones outside.

@TdrSld

8 ай бұрын

@@Chris_at_Home If you ever do it again lay down 2" close cell and then either open cell or rockwools sound bats. Close cell is ok for sound control but open and rockwool will make so quit it will drive you crazy

@totallyraw1313

7 ай бұрын

How do you soundproof the ceiling?

@Zarcondeegrissom

6 ай бұрын

using the same footer and header, think the name of that is staggered stud wall, still works. vs separate header and footer double walls, Albeit still connected to the same floor and ceiling rafters, they both have pro's and cons. it all boils down to wavelength vs resonant frequency of the structure and void sizes. biggest tradeoff for most is low-frequency reduction vs space in the room left after construction.

@Zarcondeegrissom

6 ай бұрын

@@totallyraw1313 he has a few vids on that, if having separate rafters for the ceiling from the floor joists above isn't an option. hanging ceiling, or even a floating floor above. I can think of a few reasons to need that ranging from supercomputer cooling compressors to heavy footed walking kids or even a dance studio upstairs above you, lol.

27 years as a building acoustics consultant, 20 years now owning my own consultancy, I can say with authority that every product with "noise", "sound" or "acoustic" in its name is a rip-off, with the possible exception of floor underlays and resilient clips although the jury is still very much out on their performance. Happy to be asked for simple and equivalent alternative products to ANY "acoustic" product. I'm not criticising this video or its creator - multi walls are excellent for both airborne and structure-borne noise control.

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

I agree with a lot of what you said and talk about that very thing in this video and will give you alternate products that works just as good! kzread.info/dash/bejne/mpOjq8mdh83Xnag.htmlsi=PjNEvy5b9vq2TGsj

@brainwashingdetergent4322

8 ай бұрын

Hello Mr. SippletonBallSack, great screen name btw! You state that you’d offer simple alternatives to products which state they are sound/noise/acoustic reducing. What are alternatives to Green Glue and Quite Rock? Do these products even work that well.

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

​@@brainwashingdetergent4322green glue is industry standard, that is one of the only acceptable ",noise proofing" products Replacing quiet rock is the 2 layers of 5/8 type x drywall with green glue compound in between.

@simpletonballsack

8 ай бұрын

@@soundproofguide I am unfamiliar with "Green Glue" in Australia but I googled it and the words "soundproofing compound" on the tube are a huge red flag. It purports to provide mechanical decoupling between sheets of plasterboard, which does sound reasonable, but could also be counterproductive if the application pattern inadvertently causes sympathetic resonance between the two PB layers. Unfortunately, their test reports are quoted on their site but are not available. With these reports, I could directly compare with comparable systems without their product.

@KlrStng

8 ай бұрын

@@simpletonballsack Green Glue is widely used by Home Theater enthusiasts to achieve the highest possible STC. Unlike most "soundproofing" products, there is a lot of real science behind it. You can read up on it, there is a lot of good information about it. Also there's a great soundproofing thread in the AVS forums that dispels a lot of myths and talks real science.

Very good info. Thank you!

Great video. What about ventilation inside those walls? Especially if you use the thick rubber matting on the walls.

to find studs, use a vertical laser and mark them on the floor and ceiling

Many years ago I made some enquiries about sound insulation on behalf of a record pressing plant. An expert told me the best system would require the rockwool type insulation to be free hanging within the double walls and not in contact with them.

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

There should be an air void where the one inch gap between the old wall and the new wall.

This is one of the reasons for the development of cavity walls in northern european countries. Stops damp coming in as the outer wall is the one that faces the weather, and the inner never gets touched by the climate. Heat transfer is reduced, reducing heating costs. and sound dampening. Cavity walls pay for themselves in heating costs, health benefits of reducing mosture entering the house, plus quality of life in sound proofing. If you can afford it at time of construction cavity walls pay for themselves long term.

What a great video thank you. I've been building houses for 40 years they often try an acoustically isolate say a bathroom for example. You're telling me stuff I never knew about. I studied by learning how they built hotel rooms because you know they're close to each other but yet a well built hotel you can't hear a bleed through of sound. I guess things have changed in 40 years since I originally studied this. Update my skills for the next time I build a bathroom

I think a combination of this should be used...Like the double wall for outer facing walls around the home, then resilient channel for inside the home.

If all you have to work with is a single wall, putting acoustic ceiling tile in the wall facing the noise source with 1 layer of fiberglass insulation behind it works incredibly well.

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

Great advice!

@glowcube

4 ай бұрын

Interesting! :)

My condo, built in 1983 has double walls as shown. 1" of drywall on the inside of both units (per fire code), 2" gap between bases and sills and the walls, fiberglass insulation on both sides. I can still here the lady next door. I just remodeled my side and replaced the fiberglass with mineral wool/rockwool insulation. Sound reduction is better than the fiberglass, but not ideal. Then, as other have noted -- my upstairs neighbor completely ruins all that. Has a young son that DOES NOT walk anywhere, only runs/stomps, even till 12-1 AM when he should be asleep.

You can achieve almost the same results with only 1/2 inch space between the walls and the 2nd wall built with 2x3 if you want to save space. The most difficult part are the windows and the doors insulation. All need to be doubled. Don’t leave any openings in the bottom of the doors and you need to frame the threshold so the whole door closes tight. We say the “ 2 % opening lets 90% of the sound coming in “. Also, the best is to use 2 1/2 inch gypsum sandwiched together with acoustic sealant between the sheets on each frame.

Very cool!!!!

I installed mass loaded Vinay in my home theater, what a pain to install. Took 4 of us to lift it onto the ceiling with a bar I added to hold the weight. Covering all the holes in electrical outlets and sealing the bottom of the door would have done a better job. Have to make the room air tight. Didn’t realize this until I was blasting music, testing with the door knob removed. Almost like the room wasn’t soundproofed. All the sound came out the door knob hole.

I’m going to try 2x4 studs staggered 12” on center on 2x6 header and footers which effectively creates an isolated inside and outside wall each with studs 24” on center with 6” of insulation.

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

i would only do a staggered stud system like this if you have no space. a separate wall will give you better isolation. You will 100% get sound transfer through the shared top and bottom plates.

@josepalacio4775

Ай бұрын

Don’t do that, builder here and that’s not an effective method. The video is pretty spot on for the most part

Hi, I recognised some cycling stuff in your videos, and I wondered if you have any tips on soundproofing/deadening for an indoor trainer? Both for the floor below and the adjacent room- thanks for all the helpful videos🙂

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

Hey Robin! I’ll definitely look into that!

Also With a double wall depending on what city you're in the code. You have to do quite a bit of fire blocking in a specific way for a double wall.

@mytuberforyou

8 ай бұрын

An easy workaround is to just offset 2x4 studs in a wall with a 2x6 sill and plate- not only is this thinner, saving space, it provides the necessary continuous fire block and very little gets transmitted through the sill or plat because they are fastened off to joists which minimizes their vibration. Even better, it allows you to lay in R19 batts without having to deal with any drama because it's essentially a 2x6 wall. Just use some spray 77 or 90 to stick them to one side of the wall cavity.

Does anyone know if polycarbonate is better than acrylic glass for soundproofing? Which one blocks sound more?

Do you have acoustic measurements to prove what you are saying?

Does MLV also act as a vapor barrier?

soooo thanksfull

Please, make a guide for rooms that are made of concrete blocks. What would be a good approach for those?

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

Those can still be room within a room, the concrete wall is leaf one, frame the inner room an 1" inside that wall and do not let them touch Same concept. Different materials. And arguably better, concrete provides much more isolation that you'd get from sheet rock on that outer leaf

I always thought rock board would do the best job of insulating, especially for bass frequencies. They are the overwhelming target I believe. Bass and drums...

@DuckMallard11

3 ай бұрын

What is rock board? Is that the same as sheet rock? I'm building a drum room in my garage and like you said, bass frequencies are my #1 target. Thanks for any help you can give me.

How much does the double wall affect thermal insulation? I live in Phoenix and with outside temps getting up into the 120s I’m wondering if it’s worth doing this around the whole house to help heat coming in from the outside walls and help out the air conditioner a little bit as well.

@soundproofguide

4 ай бұрын

Yes, double walls can significantly improve thermal insulation, especially in hot climates like Phoenix. They reduce heat transfer from the outside, helping to keep your home cooler and potentially lowering air conditioning costs. While the initial investment may be higher, the long-term savings on energy bills could make it worthwhile. However, it's important to consider the overall design and construction costs before deciding.

How would you attack my situation? Currently have a concrete brick wall that has plasterboard glued onto it separating my side and neighbour (duplex). Ideally a solution that doesn't involve removing the existing plasterboard as it's glued really well. The concrete brick wall is core filled solid, but if neighbour talks loud or plays tv loud enough, I can hear well.

@danielwarren7110

2 ай бұрын

if you have space you are willing to lose then 15cm come out about 3cm from the wall, frame with 2b4's (10cm) insulate the framing (this will have two benefits for you) then drywall (1cm) the rubber and then second dry wall (1cm) the frame does not touch your original wall so no physical sound transfer.. the insulation wiil stop heat transfer between the homes. So heating or cooling you pay for will be lost at a lot slower rate though the shared wall.

Great video! What do you recomend in interior doors?

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

You can use a door seal kit. Also using a weatherstrip around the door and a door sweep helps a lot!

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

​@@soundproofguidethat only puts a door on one of your walls. That will be the weak point in your leaf by a mile.

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

Normally you would be needing 2 doors. One on each wall, opening opposite ways. And they need to be very heavy solid core doors. He is correct they need proper seals around all 4 sides tho. Also he careful of the handles used as your doors mass will be one of the week links in your MAM system

@azdean6897

8 ай бұрын

Thanks!@@chriscarr1791

What would you recommend for a metal stud construction.

Super

With a double wall system should I insulate the outer and inner walls or just the outer wall?

@danielwarren7110

2 ай бұрын

both... you can do one, but with the air gap the insulation in both will reduce the sound and the physical transfer ... make sure though there is still an air gap between both walls once the insulation is in place. also be aware that this will greatly change the flow of heat loss or gain into the room. a good thing as reduces ac costs. heat will neither get in nor out as fast.

Does the Acoustical gypsum board hepls?

@soundproofguide

Ай бұрын

Yes it does.

Use 2×6 base and stagger the 2×4 studs then weave the insulation in-between now the drywall is not connected to the other side.

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

Yes, stagger stud walls is also an option.

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

That is a good option if space or budget is limited or if not as high a level of isolation is needed. But does not provide the same isolation as a fully decoupled room withinna room structure

@ccpanel

8 ай бұрын

the 2x6 provides a bonding path for vibration transmission.@@soundproofguide

great explanation! I do this is every theater room when we finish basements with theaters.

Mass loaded vinyl works best if left limp, such as hanging between the two half walls. Putting the MLV between the walls does 3 things. It is a third air seal, it damps sound and it serves as a reminder to not allow anything to bridge between the walls. The MLV between the walls needs to be loose and limp. For example, use roofing nails with the big plastic washers to nail it to the header of the first wall. Put a few inches extra every 3-4 feet like a pleat. Put a fasteners through each pleat. Cut the bottom about 6" longer than needed. Then fasten the sides. Make a couple of pleats on the sides too. Tape all the way around with something like zip tape. Pay extra attention to taping the pleats. Also make sure you caulk under and above the walls. If you can afford the cost and the mess (and clean up) consider using aero barrier to seal the holes you can't see and don't know about.

Will putting MLV create moisture issues behind the wall?

@soundproofguide

7 ай бұрын

You’re better off placing the MLV between two layers of drywall so it’s sandwiched and away from the wall cavity. In most cases you’d be fine even if it isn’t sandwiched but it all depends on the climate.

why not put a 1" layer of rigid foam insulation between the studs and the drywall to isolate the drywall from the studs also will help with thermal insulation

do you have any experience with straw-bale building? It promises an r of 42 which sounds superb and budget friendly if you live in any rural area.

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

No but it sounds interesting! I’ll definitely look into that!

@Thedar561

8 ай бұрын

What about bugs and insects nesting in it

@simpletonballsack

8 ай бұрын

If you mean Rw 42 then that is relatively poor noise performance. Straw-bale construction to code ends up being very expensive.

My poor dogs suffer every year during July 4th from all the fireworks (for weeks leading up to and after 😕) Would this kind of setup help with that?

@danielwarren7110

2 ай бұрын

yes, and if the room is deeper in the house it would help all the more, but be aware the room temp will change as it will be better insulated, as such losing and gaining heat from transfer slower, if you have a heater in the room it will heat up faster and cool slower, if no heater or ac in the room then it will heat up slower and cool down slower. Also if you use the rubber sheeting around then moiture will possibly build up depending on number of dogs, if they are wet when they go in, and so on and so forth, so think about that... plus great reading room when it is not 4th of july as it will be super quiet.

Attempting to help out here. At a basic level. If you reduce a sound level by 10db this results in a 10X reduction in sound pressure level. A 3db reduction would be a one half reduction.

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

A change of 10 dB is accepted as the difference in level that is perceived by most listeners as “twice as loud” or “half as loud”. To produce an increase of +10 dB you need to increase power (watts) by a factor of 10. Yes, to get twice as loud, you need ten times the power. 3 dB rule: A 3 dB gain means twice (x2) the power. A 3 dB loss means half the power. That’s not the same as what is perceived as twice as loud by the human ear.

@michaelplowman876

8 ай бұрын

Ahh I was thinking dbm and dbv which is watts and volts. I understand you are talking about perceived loudness which is different (db spl?) There is a difference out there. Thanks and apologies for the confusion! @@soundproofguide

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

@@michaelplowman876 No problem at all. Cheers!

How does this type of wall compare to 8 inch thick concrete?

@larslengberg

2 ай бұрын

It weighs less... :D

A 10 dB drop is equivalent to 3.16 x reduction in sound. 6 dB is 2 x reduction.

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

A change of 3dB for humans is just about perceptible, but a change of 10dB is perceived as a doubling/halving in noise.

Very appreciate your video. I have a small question. Lets say, i am the noise making, music playing neighbour, with a single layer drywall inbetween apartments. How many cm would such a double wall in all its layers have to be. Like, can i count the existing wall, as one layer, and simply start with the air pocket, or maybe a tiny thing layer, just for attachment, or do i need to build the double wall on top of the existing? If so, i am counting about 30 ish cm added in total depth…. Am i getting it right? Thanks ✌️

@danielwarren7110

2 ай бұрын

take the wall you have add an air gap ... add the new stud wall. so if you frame with 2 by 4s then you have the 4 inches and the air gap say an inch and then your drywall layer ... so 6 inches (15cm) should do it... but if you have 20cm to play with make the air gap bigger then you can put thicker insulation up. some people will say you do not need the air gap if the insulation is thick enough others will say you need at least 1 cm of air gap. think about it this way each time a sound has to change between material (and air in the air gap is a material in this sense) it gets defused in a different way, each different way reduces the sound energy.

@silasgroenning

2 ай бұрын

@@danielwarren7110 appreciate the feedback.. thanks for clarification. Have been looking at a method called staggered wall, where the freaming is.. stagggered, so it creates an airgab inbetween.. not sure about that one or this one , of prefered methods… but thanks✌️✌️✌️

@danielwarren7110

2 ай бұрын

@@silasgroenning staggered framing is to stop the vibration transfer between the touching vertical columns but if any of your horizontals touch they will transfer vibration across. But there is nothing in Air gaps that say you do not stagger the framing... that is up to you and your builder. but with no connection between the two walls there is a greater reduction in vibration... obviously still going to come through floor and ceiling joists if they are running through both sides of the wall.

@silasgroenning

2 ай бұрын

@@danielwarren7110 yea oki.. and no smart solution for stopping floor vibrations traveling throu? Was thinking about having some rubbermats underneat it.. perhaps something better? Or perhaps pointless?✌️

@danielwarren7110

2 ай бұрын

@@silasgroenning not really cheap. as the vibrations will pass from anywhere on your ceiling or floor.. so you need to know exactly where all your beams are. Then you would need to cover them in a rubber matting... when it comes to building new they would either disconnect them, or if not possible cut them on a diagonal or a horizontal S and put imact tape or sound tape to rejoin them... still alows load transfer but reduces vibration but not a lot... the best is seperate the beams... so if you have two load bearing walls you could put a cut between them but it is a bad idea unless both are next to each other... with brick cavaties this is more likely as both brick walls are more capable of taking the weight... but even then it depends on type and placement of bricks. The most you are likely able to do in a prebuilt home is mitigate not completely stop... however airgap framed dry walls with insulation is going to reduce it a lot... basically think about how hard it would be to stop noise going up or down to your neighbours... It can depend on what is making the noise. I used to have my speakers and sub on those play mats that you see for toddler's rooms the ones to stop them hurting themselves when they fall over.. it greatly reduced the sound transfer at the source. The actual vibration from the speakers into the furniture and down into the floor was reduced. didn't stop it, and you could still hear when the cleaner was in my house from a block away but the vibrational sound was reduced ... but obvioulsy the sound waves still continue to impart it.

ADD QUITE BOARD DRY WALL??

vibrational noise? and what other noises are there?

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

Airborn noise which would be people talking, tv…

@thomasw.eggers4303

8 ай бұрын

@@soundproofguide Airborn noise is vibrating air.

Could it be possible to use this method of building another layer to the ceiling? Like building a double ceiling? I would like to see video about that kind of projects. There is 400 pound elephant living upstairs with ADHD kids running wild. There is massive: - Stomping sounds. - Running sounds from kids. - Dragging furniture. - Basketball bouncing. - Big dog running wild. All these are happening in the evening + in the night so it makes it soo much more annoying.

@simpletonballsack

8 ай бұрын

Can't treat those structure-borne noise sources with controls for airborne noise, sorry.

@12344567ist

8 ай бұрын

You can easily fix this by MOVING OUT>

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

Yes, this video did not address the ceiling at all basically making the inner room non effective as it ties into the same ceiling joists. The inner room walls should be built 1" shorter to the top of the double top plate and the new inner ceiling joists should sit on the new shorter walls up between the existing ceiling joists maintaining that 1" space from touching the existing ceiling. That is if you are in a basement or height is a concern you only lose and extra 1". Otherwise if it's a newly built structure you build the outer room 1' higher than you want you finished height, then can frame your inner joists directly under those to get your finish height.

never seen you doing a box inside a box, so with a floating floor

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

Often in a studio build you would float your inner floor however, normally it is done incorrectly and incredibly expensive. Expense is not the issue if done right, when done wrong and expensive its very sad. And concrete is an excellent isolator so in most cases that would get you the isolation you are looking for and anyone building a studio or something requiring that level of isolation.

If I use a resilient channel on top of existing drywall in between two rooms, is there something I should fill that air gap with insulation? Also could I add the rubber matting before the resilient channel and then sheet rock would it make a difference?

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

The resilient channel has to be installed “directly” onto the studs. After the resilient channel is installed, you can place either a layer of drywall or mass loaded vinyl.

@bdlc1701

8 ай бұрын

@@soundproofguide Right so just to clarify I can I install the resilient channel directly over studs over existing drywall? Or it cannot be installed over drywall?

My wife is a screamer too. Let’s just call it like it is.

@dp-bh5fh

2 ай бұрын

LOL ya bro fuck ya dude that is so fucking SICK bro hhahahah yeah dawn this guy FUCKS

Not sure what scale you're using, but a 6db (not 10db) reduction in sound pressure level is a 50% reduction.

@wally7856

8 ай бұрын

3 dB down is half the sound pressure, 6 dB down is 1/4 the sound pressure. Either way we don't hear linearly, it takes about a 10 dB difference to subjectively say the volume level has doubled of halved to our ears so he is correct in that.

Excellent. Now i can stop all those pesky complaints of hearing screaming.

@aurorajones8481

8 ай бұрын

IM JOKING!!!!! c'mon... 😂

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

😎

@ricklavash6965

8 ай бұрын

😂😂😂

@ljprep6250

7 ай бұрын

@@aurorajones8481 Too late. You're on "their" list now.

What if I went super cheap and created an air gap with 1 x 4 planks, just straight up used plain caulk to glue 2 sheets of drywall together before hanging?

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

You will not be happy with the performance Sound isolation is not a job u can cheap out in and expect it to work

I can’t do this on my apartment unit?

@soundproofguide

6 ай бұрын

No? You’d have to remove the drywall and add a second stud frame. This would be difficult when being a tenant.

if air would be such a good soundproofing, there would be no need for soundproofing wool in the walls, only air would be enough... Actually, the second wall is spaced to interrupt the mechanical transmission of sound waves through the mass of the wall, the air between the walls has no value, if there is a sound-insulating wool instead of air in its case, it would be better.

@Georgggg

4 ай бұрын

Wool absorbs sound, when it reflects back and forth between two walls, eliminating drum effect.

@andrewclemons8619

Ай бұрын

The point is the separation of the two points of contact to reduce noise transfer. That way the sound can't transfer as easily

This system works alot better if you use steel partitioning system

@DuckMallard11

3 ай бұрын

Do you mean using steel studs and bottom/top plates? I have my outer wall built using wood already but was considering steel for the inner wall. Would that be better?

What about windows? Airports seem to do a great job.

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

One of the best ways to soundproof windows is to upgrade them to triple pane windows.

@user-nu1vn3yy9s

8 ай бұрын

@@soundproofguideI have such windows. One is with one thicker glass, and maybe other features for noise protection. Well, for some types of noise it's fine, but: - diesel engines from trucks - not so great. Low frequency - and it's well-known by specialists. - any broken - too noisy gas engine from a car - same. - People speaking loudly 5-20-30 feet away - some have a voice so nasty that the closed window can't stop it. - blowers for garden - the machine to be made illegal! Another big problems is the wall - mine is from massive bricks 20'' thick. Maybe a lot of noises I've mentioned come true the wall, rather than the window. But in an apartment I would have to make a double wall - thus double window - system. Not easy, and rather expensive, plus a lot of space will be gone.

@Chris-xc1tm

8 ай бұрын

I did do that but it wasn't as great as I thought it would be. Also tried to get the ballistic nylon the military and government uses on top of windows but it's restricted. Also couldn't get info from the airport so my guess is they use something similar. Airport window sound proofing is next level. Somehow they decouple the layers even in double layer. It's a mystery I could never solve. Sound proofing drapes helped more I think, but it was probably additive. Such a big subject.

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

​@user-nu1vn3yy9s because double pane and triple pane windows is not actually the way to do it. Those windows are all still sharing a frame and not making up the equivalent mass lost when cutting out that window. In a double wall there should be a sheet of glass on each wall which gives you a much larger gap between sheets than the 1" in the wall. Additionally calculations need to be done to determine the thickness of the glass. It needs to be the equipment of the mass of that leaf it is in. Otherwise that is your weak link sound will pour through the glass as it is less mass than the walls. Additionally the install needs to have proper seals on all 4 sides and is normally installed on slight angles to avoid reflections between the 2 sheets.

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

​@@Chris-xc1tm because double pane and triple pane windows is not actually the way to do it. Those windows are all still sharing a frame and not making up the equivalent mass lost when cutting out that window. In a double wall there should be a sheet of glass on each wall which gives you a much larger gap between sheets than the 1" in the wall. Additionally calculations need to be done to determine the thickness of the glass. It needs to be the equipment of the mass of that leaf it is in. Otherwise that is your weak link sound will pour through the glass as it is less mass than the walls. Additionally the install needs to have proper seals on all 4 sides and is normally installed on slight angles to avoid reflections between the 2 sheets.

drywall-do a thin layer of 3/8, then do a roofing membrane or tar paper, then stagger joint another layer of 3/8

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

this is not going to get you the isolation youll be hoping for guaranteed.

what about a vapor barrier before the drywall

I thought you said this was cheap!

I thought everyone knew this ? years ago my buddy got free dual pane windows for sound proofing he lived by the airport

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

In a studio build it goes beyond that. Dual pane is still sharing the same frame. In a studio with double walls there is a sheet of glass on each wall making that gap between sheets of glass very large. Also angling the glass to battle points of reflection and needing to calculate proper glass thickness based on matching the mass of the walls you cut the window out of. Just using double pane windows is dangerous advice for someone trying to actually maximize their isolation

Contact area

A tilt up concrete wall is still far best.

Rubber. Rubber. Rubbbbbeeeeeerrrrrrrrr. 1/8" to 1/4" thick between all material surfaces. Plus double wall.

Hi, jetzt hab ich endlich ein vernünftiges Video gefunden und dann ist es in englisch 😩

easier to just move.

Two whole walls is extremely expensive and not necessary if you know the alternative. Yes you need all the studs on the inside wall to have an inch space from the outside wall and vice versa. But you don’t need two 3.5” thick walls with an inch on between!! That’s 8” before you add drywall! With drywall you’re talking about a 9.5” thick wall. That’s not necessary to achieve this effect! Here is what you do. You build ONE wall but with double the studs. Use a 2x6 on the bottom and top. On the inside of the 2x6, use 2x4s for studs 16” apart. On the outside of the wall use 2x4s 16” apart but 8” from the studs on the inside portion. The drywall on the outside doesn’t touch any of the studs on the inside and Vice versa. If you’re worried that the bottom plate can acoustically transfer sound. Rip it long ways with a table saw and attach it to the floor with an 1/8” gap between. Construct everything else the same as this video. You’ll save about 3” of wall width all the way around which gives you 6 extra inches of length and width of your room.

@neilvoss64

8 ай бұрын

You may not want to rip out the outer room's sheetrock (like if you are refitting a home studio or theater into one room, adjoining an existing built bedroom or exterior wall). Doing so would be way more costly and disruptive. And otherwise not save much money. You still need the same amount of vertical studs (if you wanted to save there, and there are no issues with codes or load, you could opt to do 24" on-center and save money while deadening the potential transfer even more). With a staggered wall like you describe you are replacing every 8' of header/footer run with one 2x6x8 vs. two 2x4x8s - at time of writing it costs $7.20 for one 2x6x8 vs. $7.00 for 2 2x4x8s). If you wanted to create a small (1/8" etc.) conductivity gap you'd lose time ripping, and sadly not everyone has a table saw to do it right (renting or buying one would cost something, paying a framer to rip costs at least something, and there's more chance someone would screw up a rip and trash a bit of material). Not sure if it changes the acoustics that much, but you also get no air gap with this approach if you're packing insulation on each frame side, since the insulation would get jammed into the ~2" clearance gap between adjoined studs and outer panels. In my limited experience, a dead air gap does the most to kill low end/bass resonance from one area to another. In the end, most of the cost of a wall system like this is not the framing materials (however you decide to do it), it is in the extra framing effort, extra to caulk joints, to apply pads to outlets, and in particular denser (or specialty) sheet rock and expensive mass loaded vinyl.

@neilvoss64

8 ай бұрын

But you are saving ~2.5" of wall thickness if that is a major concern...

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

That's a staggered stud system and should only be used if 3 things. 1 space is an issue. 2 budget is an issue. 3 maximizing your isolation is not a concern. This is why you never see proper professional studio built with staggered walls. A full room within a room system is the proper way to maximize isolation. Anyone that think they provide the same performance has not built and used both.

More materials. More cost. Less room.

@soundproofguide

Ай бұрын

And less noise.

The MLV (mass-loaded vinyl) and the rockwool "safe & sound" insulation make a significant difference in soundproofing a room... more so than the caulking and putty-pads do. But the rest of the advice given is solid. In many countries, building a home with double-wall or triple-wall construction is a lot more common. Also, most countries on Earth do NOT use fiberglass insulation, as it is one of the worst insulations on the planet, for soundproofing, for your health, and especially for its R-value or insulating properties.

So these old haunted houses with secret crawlspaces and hallways between rooms inside walls were just to control sound. Silly ghosts.

I tried something like this over 30 years ago when I first moved into my condo. I had a neighbor who for some reason, would produce a knocking sound on their side of the common wall in the morning. Nothing really loud, just annoying. It really didn't work.

I don't understand something. Why frame a double wall? You can use sound proof sheet rock.. 2 layers of sheet rock with a metal piece in between. That is specifically what that cheap rock is made for. You can get it in half inch or 5/8.

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

resilient channel is used to save space. the decoupling the mechanical transfer gives much better isolation on a second wall. if budget and space permits, do the second wall, you wont regret it (if done right).

all BS!.......sound will transmit thru the floor, going around 2x wall....concrete & block floor & wall, plus is the only solution. ... this vid does nothing!

@soundproofguide

8 ай бұрын

👎

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

Room within a room theory is the industry standard theory for all professional recording studio builds. this video misses alot of the details with it, but the concept of a MAM build is the best one. Different materials have different properties, if you can build a room within a room with 2 concrete walls, 2 floated concrete floors and 2 floated concrete ceilings, sure that would be better than a wood/sheetrock structure. Out of all the professional recording studios I have been in they typically opt for increasing the space, so much so they build air locks between rooms.

Sounds creepy!!?? Exactly what a maniac needs to know!!!

@soundproofguide

7 ай бұрын

😎

If you don't repeat yourself this video would literally be half the length- and that would be a good thing!

4;50 in.... THAT IS NOT ONE INCH , is there something WRONG with You at all ???

@soundproofguide

3 ай бұрын

Not one thing. 😎

Another BS video from soundproof guy lmao if we could tear up our apartments or houses to build like this we wouldn't be watching these videos

@chriscarr1791

8 ай бұрын

Plus it's incorrect. Even if you could tear down your walls. You will be very upset about this performance based on the lack of addressing the ceiling and wrong approach to windows and doors. Also let's not even get started on addressing hvac which is entirely skipped lol

Slow down, slow down on the video, you are moving way too fast changing videos !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BYE !!!!!!!

The guy says, “train tracks” and they show a clip of a train. The guy says, “vibrational noise” and they show a clip of a dishwasher vibrating. The guy says, “add some insulation” and they show a clip of a guy opening a bag of insulation. We’re not stupid and when you place these obvious clips, it shows your complete lack of nuance. Good videographers don’t insult the intelligence of their viewers.

@YTDeletes90PercentOfMyComments

2 ай бұрын

Why do you want nuance on a guide? Why do you have to feel intelligent as you learn things?