Really impressive. Great to watch a pro in action. Thank you for sharing.

thanks man, ive been looking all over youtube for a video like this on my 2nd gen... your awesome

Excellent video. Professional technician myself, but always helpful to see a demonstration before doing a new repair.

@ThePracticalMechanic

4 жыл бұрын

No problem Jeffrey. Glad to help🔧🔧🔧

!st video find on this friend's vehicle, and it's a beauty, gut from work needs this done, could not understand the job until I saw this excellent repair. Thanks for posting !!

Good video. Would you know how many thousands the axial clearance is on your repair and what he OEM specifications? I used a dial indicator on the axle shaft end and got ~0.015" clearance pushing the CV joint in toward the truck and pulling it back out on my T100.

I ran mine without the snap ring. A bump would through it out and you could hear grinding. Hit another bump and it would run smooth. Took it off and there was a fair amount of brass dust around the area. There is some play there now. More then a few mil. I imagine this is my problem child. Will the car line up or will they tell me no use? Until this is solved my tires will grind to fast,..Time to get a slide hammer I guess. And still better then whole spindle with it installed. Also it says upgrade. Is the upgrade best because it has splines and it seats the Axl splines better is my guess. Nice vid any discussion? Thanks,..

Thanks. You would not believe how many people, even dealerships that told me that my 95 Toyota T100 DX 4wd didn't have that needle bearing....I had to actually show them pictures where I took it out because of (squeaks), where it went, etc....lol. I ordered one easily from AutoZone but it was not correct size.....somehow they finally found it on a diagram. If I'm not mistaken my Hanes or Chilton book showed it but was no mention of it, I really don't remember just know I had a heck of a time convincing them. I had a hard time with ball joints as well. This was done in a driveway with just a few tools but I got it done and it's smooth.

@ThePracticalMechanic

3 жыл бұрын

I luckily have a Toyota parts veteran I call when I need something. Most of the newer parts staff cannot find anything I ask for.

@dgmenace73

3 жыл бұрын

@@ThePracticalMechanic I know this will never happen, but I am actually looking for an engine for my 95 T100 DX ext cab 4wd 3.4L manual. Do you know of anyone that sells decent to low mileage 3.4's or refurbished engines for an actually decent price? Not to many out there familiar with the T100 , the fitment issues that if you use 4runner, you still have to use T100 oil pan, sump , pickup, dipstick tube (u probably know what I mean). I guess that's the biggest issue I know of with them? I'm in NC but would drive or pay for shipping for the right engine. Besides buying mine new, I have invested 5k in it since 2015, it broke down 2wks after putting new tires on it....engine is shot. Just hoping, hate seeing it sitting but I can't afford $1300 for used engine with 270k miles....just too much work, $ for taking that chance. Mine has blown head gasket and lower end issues too. Thanks

@ThePracticalMechanic

3 жыл бұрын

@@dgmenace73 as long as you picked up an early 3.4 you can just swap the pan and move the dipstick. The hole is already drilled in the block and there is a plug that need to be removed. If you end up with a later engine the hole is not in the block but a drill template can be rented from several companies that offer parts for a 3.4 swap into older vehicles. I used a t100 dipstick tube and a 3.0 l oil pan in my 1990 4runner when I did an engine swap. What is wrong with the current engine? They are typically reliable unless they run low on oil or the head gasket fails. Our local rebuilder typically quotes $2000-2400 for a complete rebuild on these engines.

@ThePracticalMechanic

3 жыл бұрын

@@dgmenace73 I missed the issues you had listed. If it has top end and bottom end issues I would just look for another engine. It would be cheapest to find a 4runner engine and swap the parts you mentioned. It would only take an hour or so to swap the parts from one engine to the other and resealing the oil pan while the engine is out is something I recommend anyways.

@todhowell6366

3 жыл бұрын

@@dgmenace73 Hey Denis, did you ever find another motor? Those things are easy to rebuild. I pulled my first motor ever and rebuilt it 3 months ago. I mean totally rebuilt it and new crank and rod bearings and piston rings were around 70 bucks and a whole new gasket set was 90. I found a good used crank for 100. I cleaned the block and heads and had them both resurfaced for 65 bucks then I put it all together.So I have about 250 in a rebuilt motor that runs like a new one and it was the 3.0 And I just got through building a 3.4 for less because the crank was good. This guy didn't keep driving it after it started knocking. What I'm saying is that I had never even pulled a motor, much less rebuilt one, but I just took my time and did my homework and just did it. It's not really that hard. And plus it's cheap.

So that's why my axle rattles down the dirt road. Spent ages trying to figure I out until one day I just grabbed the axle and wiggled it. It still works fine, but my guess is that brass bushing is fked.

if you have Aisin locking hubs the secret to getting the cone washers out is to back the nuts off until they are flush with the end of the stud and then take a brass punch and a hammer or just a brass hammer and smack the end of the stud ... a couple of good hits and they will pop out then you remove the nut and pull the washers. the purpose of keeping the nut on while you smack the stud is to prevent damage to the stud threads. Once you do that you can just pull it by hand usually. Smacking the side of the housing is the wrong way to do it and results in cracked hubs.

Where can i get part number for the bearing bushing kit ?

What are some symptoms of a bad spindle bushing? Trying to determine the cause of my issue and whether or not I should 'upgrade' as well.

Awesome. How would you describe the benefits of using the bearing rather than just the brass bushing?

@ThePracticalMechanic

5 жыл бұрын

I honestly haven’t noticed a difference in the daily driving because I installed lockout hubs on mine. The problem I had with my old bushings was a rattling noise going over small bumps and a screeching noise when the temps were under 20 degrees F. The new bearings should allow for smoother operation of the axle and if kept greased should last longer. Others have mentioned that the bearing may not be as strong as the bushing and might wear out faster if dirt and water gets into the bearing.

I've got a 95 4x4 with manual hubs and I need to find the driver side spindle without abs

Hey cann you give me the toyota part number for that bearing and busing kit? And is it usually the Inter bushing that wears out and not the outer one? I have that noise but only with my hubs locked , which is the only time the cv turns.

thanks bro!

Hi do you know how many mm is the old bushing? I just pulled my old one out and it looks short. About 5mm shorter than the new one. The new one (no bearing) is about 17/18mm and looks like it will have about 2/3mm gap from the groove inside the spindle. Thanks for your help!

Boss I see listing for the bushings, do I need inner and outer?

You didn't add any part number or that special tool didn't ya ?

hello sr where do i get the part you installed? whats the parts number? wue was the cost?

Will this work on an 89 Toyota pickup

Can you please give me the code for the drive plate gasket ?

If I dont have a ball joint puller can I choose to remove upper ball joint from the upper control arm 4 screws instead of the side that is screwed to the knuckle?

@jayray89

6 ай бұрын

Yes that's just as good, i personally just take the upper ball joint off from the control arm just because it's easier to leave it attached to the spindle and put back on

do u happen to kno what size bolt that is that holds on drive plate got a wrecked yota and i cant find it newhere

@ThePracticalMechanic

5 жыл бұрын

The bolt that goes into the center of the axle is a 8mmx1.25 and is probably 12-15mm long. The factory one also has a very large washer.

Don't these vehicles come with the regular wheel bearings that we see in other cars?

@ThePracticalMechanic

3 жыл бұрын

These older Toyota have tapered roller bearings that need to be grease from time to time. The spindle bearing/bushing is for the axle shaft to ride smoothly on the inside of the spindle.

Thank you alot for the video. I need this done. Gives me a heads up on all the other stuff I should probably replace while I have that undone. Was the needle-bearing some aftermarket thing, or are these Toyota OEM replacement parts ? Video says you put a link for the part kit, but I do not see it.

@ThePracticalMechanic

5 жыл бұрын

All the parts were from the Toyota dealer. I will double check the part numbers in the morning when I’m at work again.

@ThePracticalMechanic

5 жыл бұрын

OK I did some checking on my invoice and the part numbers i used are as follows Short updated bushing - 90381-32001 Needle Bearing upgrade - 90364-30011 Small Tube of greese - 08887-80219 I found them on several toyota parts website and on Ebay but none on amazon. There is also the option of installing the original type Deep Bushing which will be slightly cheaper but may not last as long.

@Dr.Stein99

5 жыл бұрын

@@ThePracticalMechanic I read around some information on forums. Turns out, there is no easy way to get in there and geese the needle-bearings. What winds up happening, is those needle bearings wind up get stuck or spun, then their surface starts grinding on one area. The generic needle bearing is "HK3020", which is a 30mm inner, 37mm outter 20mm wide with steel cages. Calling around ask a few bearing guys, they can narrow down which make/model bearing can be used that has hardest steel, highest temperature. They are a common bearing also used in outboard engines too. At this point, I am looking to drive a drill into the center of the steering knuckle, so I can mount a grease fitting outside to shoot the middle area with grease. Brass or needle - both will wear out whenever the grease in there goes away. I think as long as it's greased every so often, probably best I can do with that setup.

@ThePracticalMechanic

5 жыл бұрын

I normally grease my spindle bushing every couple of years. I have a tool that threads onto the end of the spindle and it has a greasezerk on the end of it. This does require removing the hub or drive plate so it takes about 45mins to grease them up. A grease zerk on the knuckle would be more convenient.

@Dr.Stein99

5 жыл бұрын

I am hoping I can find a spot to make that hole when I can see it off the truck. I cant get a good picture of it for the 95. Found some for 2004, and they look like they have a hole in them for the zerk.

isnt there and outer bushing as well?

@ThePracticalMechanic

4 жыл бұрын

The outer bushing typically doesn’t wear out. Most of the axle torque is on the inner bushing/bearing. One of the few times I have replaced the outer was on a vehicle that was driven with the hub removed and lots of dirt and mud entered the wheel bearing and spindle bushing area.

@scooterevolution44

4 жыл бұрын

@@ThePracticalMechanic okay thanks!

Hi where can I find that part? What’s the part number?

@ThePracticalMechanic

2 жыл бұрын

I don’t remember the part numbers but I got my parts from the Toyota dealership. A quick google search show many venders carry the original style spindle bushing. Either way will work but if the vehicle sees lots of water and dirt I would go with the bushing since they hood up better. The bearings will fail quickly is water or dirt gets past the seal.

I got the random hub noise happening on my 91 4Runner with auto hubs, and now happening on my 86, is this going to solve my random noise EDIT: after you said it happens when cold, that confirms it. Only happens below 10f up here in minnesnowta

@ThePracticalMechanic

2 жыл бұрын

As the Colorado weather has recently dropped below freezing my Toyota hilux starting making the noise(still has original bushings). It sound like your running over a goose continuously. If I unlock my hubs the noise goes away. If you don’t have hubs to unlock you can try removing the drive flanges and see if the noise goes away. Since the axle quits spinning the noise should go away if it is the spindle bushings.

You forgot to replace the seal..