Having known Manfred on a personal level, he was a big teddy bear. He had his demons, as we all do, but underneath he was a sweetheart. Still very much missed.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

A couple people that knew him have commented on the video so far, and they have said how nice he was, so it seems he was really well loved as a person. I mean he didn’t lose friends after decades, so I guess that show his great character

@wilhelmmoser7686

Ай бұрын

I knew Manfred for nearly forty years and had so many adventures with him. He was a force or nature and yes, beneath the iron clad exterior, a big teddy bear.. I took Polaroids of him in Paris and we sat at his dining table while he drew on his face with a felt marker and explained to me how he wanted to change it. This was incomprehensible to me, but it came from a deep place in him.

I am old enough to remember the rise but I have never seen the fall! Instead of adjusting to the new rules of fashion (which are mostly destructive, uncreative and unrealistic) he stopped at the very top! He never sold out, never produced trash and uninspired basics, never advertised with a cat, his looks, IT bags, or a cheaper line. He was authentic, creative and true to himself until the very end. A true hero of my generation.

@AnastasiaSinsh

Жыл бұрын

cannot agree more!

@scpatl4now

Жыл бұрын

He was also one of the hottest guys in his day. He could have been the one walking the catwalk for a men's collection

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Yeah he was goooorgeous back in the day, really stunning, but ngl I love how he just dealt with his injuries after his gym accident

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

He was an incredible talent that youre right never sold out. Even after his rtw was on a cool down he found a new market for his designs with the performancewear, such a brilliant desiger

@impactive3124

Жыл бұрын

WEll there were plain and boring collections produced under his name - Thierry Mugler. It is like you have not seen the vido but just tape comment without watching it. After initial huge success the brand went down and melted into failure, becouse of bad Clarins bussiness decitions until recent LOreal take. I love Mugler ID and creations but let just be real that it was not biggest success all the way.

Thierry Mugler's the most creative designer. It is depressing for the industry and us that we got only a few collection from Mugler. Cardi B wearing Mugler archives for her first grammy. Kim K 's iconic met gala 2019 wet dress. These moments are going in fashion history books. Mugler was the most artistic person in the industry. PERIOD.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Honestly, I think Cardi B wears Mugler really well, she has an affinity for dramatic fits and it fits so well with the brand. it was not a partnership I expected, but it was one I really enjoy

@atlf3357

Жыл бұрын

They should’ve honoured Thierry instead of Karl for this year’s Met imo

@haventseenhim

Жыл бұрын

honestly I would say jean paul gaultier a bit over mugler but i totally agree with you. he was revolutionary and didnt limit art in fashion design but also through his face and reconstructive surgeries, there definitely wont be another mugler for a while thats for sure

@haventseenhim

Жыл бұрын

@@atlf3357 him or westwood imo

@pobstrel

Жыл бұрын

A few? Not true! Mugler had designs out in the seventies onwards .

I don’t know why Nicola’s work didn’t manage to revive the brand, in my opinion it’s miles better than what’s going on today. He understood glamour and drama better than the current designer, and I think a small, undeveloped spark of genius lives inside of him. I think the timing was just bad unfortunately.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Somebody else who had a little bit more insight than I did commented earlier, and said that he thought it was because of the quality of the fabrication, which means that effectively the business was getting greedy with profit margins. If that person is correct, I think that might explain why the vision just wasn’t translating in RTW

@gizzy2324

Жыл бұрын

It was too gaga centric his debut than became commercial

@TheMediaMachine

Жыл бұрын

Moment greed becomes the purpose instead of creativity, it goes downhill. Moment I hear on video about company buying the shares, I knew it was going to go downhill and nothing will be the same, especially when you hear "nothing will change regarding the creativity of designer. That was bs and was just said to combat any dropping of value of the shares of company they bought. Mugler work was never about focused on commercial sector. His was more extravagant, just out of this world, spectacular, like collection items only few could wear like the rich, elite, the fashion moguls, superstars, models etc and more to sell other products but the new owner didn't have the vision. Moment shares was bought the made it commercial due to greed it was over. It was just a matter of time. Also Mugler did all he wanted already and he was moving on and that spark he once had was completely gone. He stop designing new stuff himself as well, even now, nothing of his brand with new designers are new and just rehashed stuff. Additional new designers were hired later and they used cheaper fabric, the designers weren't good either and they didn't change with the times too. The designs became boring, dull, the uniqueness gone and that magic sparkle died.

@marcotd7923

11 ай бұрын

Formichetti is more a stylist than a fashion designer so he has a great vision of the looks but probably has limits of how to build the clothes. His mugler vision was too Gagacentric. Other famous people weren't interested to wear his clothes because they would look just like copies of lady Gaga

The work you do and the research was impeccable. My jaw dropped at 11:10 seeing how majorly the design quality had fallen. Also your business analysis and marketing breakdown is better that what I was taught in my undergrad business classes. Love everything that you do! ❤️

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much

@maykruvi

Жыл бұрын

Wholeheartedly agreed! This channel is just phenomenal.

So Loreal showed Claire's their incompetent 😂

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

🩺

I actually met him in the early 90s. He had a photographic exhibition at the Sofitel Melbourne. He was in full leather and his PA had a cinched leather dom look with Patsy Stones hair! I was in such awe all I could do was say hi.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I’m so insanely jealous I wouldve loved to have met him

i would love to see you talk about kate spade, the brand and the creator herself. it always broke my heart whenever i think about what happened. thank you so much for your videos

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I would obviously do those in two separate videos, but I think Kate Spade’s life and death story would be fascinating

Gaga and Bella both are such great muses for the brand, it’s something about the heavy make up telling us “I’m going to eat you up, chew you, and spit you”

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I think gaga is really the best ambassador they've ever had. She had that excessive unapologetic fashion perspective that goes so well with the brand. I actually think Cardi has worn Mugler really well too actually, she has that strength and confidence. But I would truly love to see what Kpop (specifically BlackPink, because I think it fits with their aesthetic) could do with Mugler, or even Kim Petras, maybe even as a wild card Rico Nasty. She does a lot with tech-wear and idk Id like to see her in Mugler, how she interprets that strength

that retrofuturism of the first collections was impeccable!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

To me it almost reads like the Morlocks from HG Wells’ the time machine

The timing of the H&M collab is impressive, but the timing of this video is much more impressive I know bits and pieces about Mugler, but I wanted to know more ever since I saw the designs that are gonna be up for sale

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

They’re coming soon too, I’m so excited, I just didn’t realise that I would be releasing the video when the coronation was going on 😂

Another great episode! I’m learning so much about fashion / design and busniess!! And I LOVE your other channel tooo! Always look forward to your uploads!! 🥰

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much! IM so gladdened to know that you find so much value in my videos :)

As always, love the exploration of the business aspects of these brands.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Tysm 🥰

This was absolutely spectacular!! Thank you for this. ❤❤

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Im so glad you liked it 🙌

Take it fromp someone who was there and knows the story details a little better first hand...by 1996 Manfred was NOT living in Paris..he was in New York and not designing for the line, he was occupied with the fragrance side of the business and left the line to young undiscovered designers. There was also some theft within the petty cash flow and in people's salaries...nothing to do with Clarins. The design team that had been left in charge of creating the 6 collections a year were rather affected by the image and kept designing garments for women wearing corsets, and by 1998 women DID NOT want to be cinched that tightly, Ready-to-Wear sales plummeted. horribly and that is what made the brand and kept the brand going, parfum was the cash cow that kept Couture collections and shows alive. After their fall the designers blamed Clarins, as you have expressed, but the design team did not adapt to the customers wants and needs...they just didn't go with the flow. After 2001 the brand was dead. Some guy bought the brand Men's license and his son designed, but quality of fabrics and fabrication was awful. Then when the relaunched the women's line it was just as bad. The designer didn't have the style nor the eye, and certainly not the knowledge of colors or fabric selection to make the brand prosper...so the brand went from bad to worse...I saw several friends try to work for the team around the brand that was only Mugler by then but the esthetic was dull and lackluster...no glamour or allure. In the late 90's Manfred Thierry Mugler would still send over some designs by fax or UPS...but for the 2010's he would appear up for a show and take the runway with the designer. Sadly his Follies Bergere cabaret was a rehashing of his old designs, nothing inventive or imaginative, like moving the same chess pieces on a checkerboard. What I have seen of this new designer does not impress me, I'd have to see the garments in person to know if the quality has returned in their fabrication and if they are investing in quality fabrics. I have pieces from my time designing with the team and some older pieces that are 20-40 years old and they all look better in 2023 than the crap that was sold in the 2000's and 2010's.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Fascinating, thank you so much for all the added details. Im so curious about the thefts, did they find out who was behind it? Or you mean the company was shorting staff? Unfortunately Im also not overly enthusiastic about Cadwaller, Im not 100% sure he is the best match for the brand. The marketing side is doing really well atm, but we will have to see if their efforts have longevity to them or not 🤷

@balazs7235

Жыл бұрын

I have vety little experience with Mugler, but it being so expensive and a designer brands, my hopes were high. I was able to check out a pair of spiral denim jeans and the materials are certainly thick and heavy, but the construction was erm... Not exactly outstanding. Stiching was not aligning, some were crooked and so on. Charging €500+ seems unreasonable, the H&M collaboration price of €150 is where they should be more or less. The mesh garments are nice, but you can only make mesh so good. The rest of it obviously feels like it is higher quality.

@kevinjewell233

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT We could be counting sheep for a long time before they find someone who has the zest and panache as well as pizazz that Manfred had in the fashion world between 1983 and 1999. One thing I kept trying to get the team to understand is that they could get the allure of a corseted waist without, using trompe l'oeil with colors, seams and structure of the garments but they were hell bent on this image they had of the label from some show that had exposed them to the brand. There were a couple of attempts, but the hostility that I met anytime I suggested concepts for the design approach to evolve was astounding and then it became a petty personal attack (I didn't go to a French school was a favorite!)

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

@@kevinjewell233 thats such a shame, but not unexpected considering how they fumbled the ball so hard from the business side. I agree that illusionary fashion wouldve been such an incredible evolufion for their codes for the new fashion world. Perhaps glenn martens would make for an interesting CD, I hadnt thought about it before

@kkeye2885

Жыл бұрын

@Kevin JEWELL This is fascinating. I actually collect vintage Mugler pieces and have always really wanted to be able to know who did what when it came to designing. There were also other labels (the white label, activ range, Mugler trademark etc), and I have always wanted to know how much of a hand he had in designing those too

I'm so excited for this one! Ever since you hinted about it in your Lagerfeld video. I adore Mugler's shows, always so creative and accompanied by a great soundtrack. I do wish however that the garments were more affordable, since I seem to want almost anything under Mugler. Won't be buying from their H&M collab, though it is a great way to get the Mugler look for less. Thanks again for this amazingly in depth episode. Have a great week everyone!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Interestingly, I saw a TikTok that was comparing the quality of the H&Mugler jeans to the namesake label, and they seemed to be a very similar quality, I assume that there was more to it than what the TikTok was saying, but I thought it was an interesting analysis

Very interesting video. But there's no mention of Mugler's personal lifestyle decisions, like changing his name to Manfred (look out for his freaky nude pics), taking massive amounts of steroids and drugs, and essentially living la vida S&M bathhouse full time. His mind was no longer in design, he was simply out to have a good time. His fashion house was left adrift. Contrast him to Lagerfeld, who was gave his all to fashion until the end. Mugler reminds me a bit of Halston, another designer whose personal issues ultimately damaged his fashion house.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

This was more of a video about the brand done about the person, I have only ever made one video where I talk explicitly about the designers history, maybe I will do one about Manfred too

@sarahsouthwell3480

9 ай бұрын

Please do 🙏@@understitchYT

@maverickbull1909

4 ай бұрын

That’s because it’s about the business and fashion not his personal life?

Been hoping you'd do a video on mugler! Love this

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed 🙌🙌

Always a pleasure when understitch uploads ❤

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I’ve got a few that you are bound to be excited by coming up 🧐🧐

such a well made and insightful video! thank you 🙏🔥

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I’m so glad you enjoyed it 🥰

Nothing but praise again for ur vid! U do an amazing job!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Tysm, so glad you enjoyed again 🙌👑🙌

I really enjoyed the business snippets and infographics. It's not often you get to see the seams of a fashion house❤

@understitchYT

13 күн бұрын

I'm working so hard on improving my infographics, but having the time to do so is harder to find than I expected :)

I have been waiting for this video thank you!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Then I’m so glad you enjoyed it 🙌

Great work! This fashion house is iconic

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Tysm and 100% iconic

the closing statement of hoping to see the increase in theatricality in Mugler shows has ABSOLUTELY come into fruition with the recent two collections since this video was posted - SS24 was in constant flowing motion with huge fans blowing the garments around in beautiful ways and SS24 with its multi-level curtain reveals (the moment where the curtain whooshes away like a dark spirit gives me chillsssss) so I'm so excited for whatever is next!!

@understitchYT

4 күн бұрын

right?? Im so happy about it! I think theres futrther to go, but on the whole Im so so happy

That cool voice, that awesome writing, such a great channel 😍

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much, I’m so glad you enjoyed it

the women who have helped bring back mugler to public consciousness deserve a shout out. i don't think this would've been possible without cardi b making into the best dressed lists fr years by wearing so many archive mugler looks, from head to toe. i mean, that iconic "see you again next year, or not" clip is a staple of the new year's now, in which she is wearing mugler. kim Kardashian in the wet look for the met gala 2019 was giving what she wanted to give with wearing marilyn's dress last year. arca and her theatrics at the fashion show to promote a handbag, people were speculating if it was even planned. they understood the vision manfred had, the one casey has now too, and went all in with no brakes.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I actually originally had that in as part of the marketing scheme to relaunch the brand, but it didnt fit with the flow of the video because it was done by Manfred directly, not explicitly by the brand so it just interrupted the story and wasnt worth ruining the end of the video for

@liketheleaf2

4 ай бұрын

she was wearing Thom Browne not Mugler

@mus7c

4 ай бұрын

@@liketheleaf2 if you're referring to cardi b at the last met gala, you'd be right. but previously & other events cardi has worn A LOT of archive mugler to the point people were praising her for bringing the spotlight back onto their incredible gowns as pieces of art.

Loved this!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Thank you 🙌

Honestly I'm optimistic about Mugler. It can do a Balmain a la Christophe Decarnin.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I really hope so, there’s definitely space for a theatrical luxury brand, that’s not currently being filled. Especially now with the exit of Michele

I watched an interview with model Emma S on Swedish morning TV some years ago where they talked about the metal "corset" she wore in the "Too Funky" (the same Lady Gaga wore in the "Paparazzi" video, and fitted quite well even though it wasn't molded onto her body like ot it had for Emma S). "Wasn't it painful to wear?" asked the TV host. "Oh, yes! I was bruised for weeks!" The things you go through, because you know the end result will make fashion history! Edited: as an armchair perfumer, what Mugler Parfums did was so clever, yet risky. They didn't let the fragrances go through panel group after panel group until the final composition was sort of appealing to most, and didn't offend anybody. The end result ends up being very generi. I heard Lancôme went through over 3000 tweaks with their "La Vie est Belle" perfume, which ended up smelling like a tamed-down "Angel". Mugler fragrances were polarizing "love them or hate them", and isn't that more interesting than smelling like your mother and in law or like a really nice fabric softener?

@wk1810

6 ай бұрын

Thank you for your informative comment, now I understand why Angel is unique, and my favorite perfume. It reminds me of Christmas and a great cup of bergamot tea.

The H&M collab was really smart. Great video!

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

Thank you 🙌🙌

Very insightful thx

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

Thank you 🤍

Love it! Always think of Mugler as THE shape, so artistic and beautiful

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Id looooove to

Really well explained and researched. Loved the business aspects of the video. Are you working as a consultant by any chance?

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much, and no, Im not a consultant, at least not yet 🙌

Probably my favorite KZread presentation of all time!!! Power to Mugler!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Tysm!! Mega manfred

This was a cool video. Mugler was super creative and made one of a kind works of art!!! I saw his exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum and it was FANTASTIC ❤

@understitchYT

9 ай бұрын

I heard it was amazing, I would've loved to have seen it

Another great video. Your attention to detail is on another level.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Im so glad you enjoyed it, tysm Mark 🙌

Thank you ♥

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

💖

Thank goodness for his fragrance line.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Very much so

The new films they amke and visuals are amazing! Loved the ARCA one so much! Loved her for so long

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

Honestly yeah, so interested in the way its going

I'm surprised that you didn't mentioned their red carpet looks the last few years.... they have dressed many celebrities with custom looks

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I actually originally had a mini bit about it as part of the marketing scheme on relaunching the brand, I took it out in the end, it just interrupted the flow of the video, but imo thats why they did that as a sort of launch

The mesh, denim, and overall stretchy fabric looks cheap and no amount of provocative cut changes that.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I think it would be okay if it was mixed in with some more luxurious fabrics, but unfortunately rn I agree that the product offering isnt the most luxurious (though I think theyre doing that because they need high profit margin items to saty afloat if Im honest)

@6:16 looks like one of the villains from Sailor Moon

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Saving fashion by daylight, going to H&M by moonlight

@karolinakuc4783

8 ай бұрын

Thierry Muggler's creations were also worn by other iconic villain like Cruella de Ville and that evil blonde lady from Golden Compass (2007). Most iconic villains. Definitely have fun in their lives. Definitely not the most evil because they were also creative. Think of all evil bussinesses like Bigpharma and Wallmart. How boring and uncreative the lives of these people must be.

Angel still one of the best fragrances

Muglar is drag. Over the top in extreme ways. Today consumer is ready for that and ready to wear that

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I’m really surprised that more drag queens don’t reference Mugler, I know we have detox, you would expect more considering the amount of Mackie gurls

Correction, the live show was also in 2023 during couture week, one year after Thierry's passing

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I just realised now that I said 2022, so stupid

I bought many Catwalk books, but I love listen your voice telling about fashion

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I want to earn and read more so badly. Maybe my first sponsor should be a library hahah

@giuseppebanno4798

Жыл бұрын

I bought the whole collection thanks to a bonus that Italian students have, because I'm an Italian student

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Oh thats fantastic! These days Ive been moving so much that so many of my books have been reduced. Unfortunately I got the idea of digitising them just too late, but I have a few still luckily (Im a really avid reader and audiobooker, so it's really frustrating to me haha)

so well researched and intriguing as usual, i'm looking forward to your next upload! i would love to see videos on mqueen, galliano, van herpen or margiela, or miss sohee, robert wun and dilara findikoglu, whose brands are all on the rise.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Im working on mcqueen for now, I would LOVE to do all of these tbh and Ive chosen which brands Ill do for this fashion week now 😶‍🌫️

@dollisms

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT amazing, i can’t wait. i forgot to mention schiaparelli and harris reed too 😭 no pressure to make these videos of course x

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

@@dollisms oh Ill definitely make all of these, no guarantee on when though, but I am personally interested in all of them so itll definitely happen

Wow! Young people... You can find lots of images of Thierry Mugler's early 1970s collection pieces in issues of WWD paper copies. You can find digitized copies of those issues at NYC libraries and the library of congress. There were also lots of images and videos of his shows and interviews on Style with Elsa Klensch in the mid/late 1980s into the 1990s.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Thank you so much for the tip

When I was a student at F.I.T. Mugler was one of THE brands to look at for inspiration. All of the students spent hours in the library looking at video fashion monthly and later Style with Elsa Klensch to get a glimpse of his theatrical fashion shows. His designs while incredible were sometimes hard to wear. In NYC only stores like Barneys, Charivari , IF and Untitled carried select pieces. What kept his name afloat for many years was not the ready to wear or even the haute couture which didn't compete with Chanel, YSL, Dior or LaCroix. It was his perfume Angel which is still doing well.

@understitchYT

9 ай бұрын

They sound like library hours well spent! And youre definitely right that it was Angel that kept the company afloat

Thank you wonderful and clever women behid this and others Understitch/Underskin videos! :D You are making great job! There are many vidoes about fashion houses/desigers here on YT but non ever makes such deep dive into economy, finances, branding and brand image. They always only talk about silouettes, fabrics and ¨vision¨ in artistic manner what is quite detached to how fashion bussiness look like. I hate how pople criticize that great input of yours, seriousley some people are just stupid (?) or simply write comments without watching videos. I noticed you answer to (almost) all comments but I am glad you do not answer to some of these insulting, demanding or silly ones. The lion will not be disturb by the ant.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Honestly, I tried to even reply to the insulting comments, because even if they are not polite, they still have a valid opinion, I might not agree with it, but every opinion is valid. The problem is that KZread doesn’t show me every comment, despite how many settings I change 😭 I’m really glad you enjoyed the videos, thank you so much for such a lovely comment, and I hope that you can keep finding value in my research 💕

I want to see Casey have an haute couture collection with so much metal pieces in his signature design, shape, and style. Like, I’d love to see metal swirling around the models’ bodies!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Currently, we haven’t seen that much of his design style from the mainline, it’s a lot of stretch pieces of mesh, but I would like to see more of a developed aesthetic before I get excited about couture tbh

Mugler 2020+ is amazing! Utterly obsessed.

@understitchYT

9 ай бұрын

You think so? Im waiting for more of a pop on the catwalk, so far to me its a little savage x fenty

You should do the Rise and Fall of John Galliano ... not John Galliano the designer (we know what happened to that), but John Galliano the Brand.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I absolutely want to so so badly, its very high on my list

@SomeoneHereAndNow

Жыл бұрын

John Galliano made a mistake by selling his name to LVMH (unlike Alexander McQueen who managed to keep his brand.)

I love your videos. I would like to see your view on Laura Biagiotti, an Italian brand that I feel has a lot of potencial, and It was very popular in the 80s and 90s.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

There are so many great sleeping beauty brands like hers, think like Claude Montana, Vionnet, Paul Poiret, Charles James, Walter Albini. I am a little worried they will all get revivals and the differentiator, the thing that made them truly special will be lessened, which would be a shame for their originas designers

@chagobox

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT Thanks for your answer...If I had the money...😜

I purchased two Mugler men’s suits in Bangkok and they still look terrific to this day.

@understitchYT

5 ай бұрын

Im extremely jealous

You should do a Rise and Fall of Emanuel Ungaro.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Thatd be amazing

@carnelian420

Жыл бұрын

This would hit very hard.

can you do a video documentary on anna bayle? she was one of mugler's important muses.

Nicola's first few collections wih gaga were amazing, i wish they stuck and i wish he had a gig at a major house right now

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Somebody else commented that by that point, the quality of the garments was so low, and naybe that’s why they just couldn’t hold the customer base, which I think would explain well why it just didn’t stick, maybe it wasn’t his fault whatsoever

My inner Sailor Moon fan absolutely grinning at 06:05 like:

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Saving the fashion by daylight

I will miss the men’s fragrance line dearly. Shame the bottles I have will more than likely be the last I can get my hands on.

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

You might also be able to find it on ebay or even recreate it if you go to a perfumer (its not as expensive as youd believe)

I love Cadwallader's work for Mugler so far. The fashion videos they've been making are breathtaking. The spring 2022 video brought me to tears, specifically the homage to Thierry with the ballerina in one of his original designs from the 90s. I've lost count of how many times I've watched it.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I think their presentations are amazing but honestly Ive been a little let down by the product. I would like to see it up close though for a better analysis

@SusanBSketchy

Жыл бұрын

@understitch, interesting. In what way do you feel let down by the product? As a non-expert, the garments themselves don't have the same camp or theater of some of Thierry's earlier, original collections, and most of the theater seems to be in the video productions instead, but Cadwallader's work is unmistakably Mugler imo. Do you find the new collections to be a bit safe? It would be interesting, on that note, to see a video that examines how designers have succeeded or fallen short in taking up the mantle of a namesake brand (like Versace, Gucci, Alexander McQueen, or Mugler). I imagine there is a lot of pressure on the designers that take over immediately after the death of the brand founder, especially when the founder's name is also the brand name. With the exception of Lagerfeld's work for Chanel, most designers that take over immediately after the death of the namesake appear to play things rather safe, from what i have seen. There might be other designers that have actually been successful immediately after the death of the originators, but I honestly don't know offhand.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

You pretty much hit the nail on the head as to my thoughts. I think that the product range is quite safe, but also I think there is a heavy reliance on the stretch mesh, which is fine, but it’s overused and can only be so luxurious in quality, so makes the product feel overpriced. I understand that they need these sorts of products with a large markup in order to say profitable, esp for an early company, so I’m not too harsh on it, which is why I was just not saying anything in the video about my opinion. But I would like to see a wider product range in the future when they have a better foundation

@SusanBSketchy

Жыл бұрын

@understitch, they *do* use a lot of stretch mesh lately. I think it'll translate well to the H&M collection, hopefully, but you make a good point about it not necessarily being a luxury fabric. I associate bodycon and stretch mesh with companies like American Apparel before they were sold to Gildan (like that leotard that Megan Fox made virally trendy) or Catherine Delish's burlesque robes. Used the right way, I think the material can be beautiful, but it would be nice to see more unconventional or luxury materials. I wouldn't mind a revisiting of the hand dyed silk from spring '22, or more leather/vinyl to create those futuristic meets tribal tattoo lines that they've been leaning into lately.

Angel was actually a ‘flop’ for the first few years after its launch, it started gaining popularity around 1997 and this grew rapidly from around 2000/2001 and onwards. I’m glad they persisted with Angel because it’s an iconic fragrance.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

It wasnt really ever a ‘flop’ as it was always financially viable, which is what I assume your alluding to in your quotes, but yes, the popularity did really ramp up around the time the adverts started coming out in 97

@andfragt

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT Yes. I only mentioned that as a lot of people describe those first few years as being a flop, hence the quotes. But people weren’t really interested in it at that time, and it didn’t help that there were doubts about its gourmand nature - some were at a disagreement with the fragrance being such a polarising mix in the midst of all the quintessentially 90s aquatic/fruity/floral fragrances.

The lacy black look from the couture (85?) looks like something from a Sailor Moon manga. :)

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

She is the one named Sailor Moon

@simmyjester

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT Yep! ^_^ Specifically, that outfit reminds me of human Luna or Chibi-Usa as Black Lady/Wicked Lady.

You just got to love empty fashion jargon. Whenever there is a shiny fabric, it's "futuristic" 😅

@understitchYT

3 ай бұрын

Let's circle back to that. Synergy. Touchpoint.

i saw Grace Jones on the early runway shots.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

she walked in a lot of the very earliest mugler shows, they had seemingly a great relationship

Yeah I feel like Nichola could have done really well, no idea how it didn’t work better

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I dont get it, such a shame

Can You Do A Video On "GALLERY DEPT. JOSUE THOMAS"! I'm curious to see his start

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Oh thats such a cool idea, Ill have a look into it, but fair warning, Im pretty booked for the next couple months bcs of fashion week 🙏

@BILLIONAIREMH

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT I completely understand! Love your channel btw I’ve learned so much about my favorite designers! You’re amazing🙏🏾🤍✨

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

@@BILLIONAIREMH im so glad to hear you enjoy my channel tysm 🙌

great video! Their early aesthetic definitely fits neatly with our postmodern hyper-pop techno punk that they are shooting for. It's just a shame they need to lean on fast fashion to fund the theatrics, I am curious about the quality because if those pieces, and I do appreciate the opening up of the brand this could have. Tis capitalism I guess... So would this be the rise fall and possibly rise again?

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

The thing is, this fast fashion stunt gets them a lot of attention, but is much cheaper (because they make profits from it) and more attention grabbing than a series of fashion shows would be. Theyre in real need of making a splash atm and this fast fashion lark is the most effective way to do it

@rhy8336

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT I’m just fascinated by the interactions of luxury with fast fashion because these brands have to walk that tight rope of making it exclusive and expanding to a new audience. Like I would love for luxury designs to be able to be worn by more people but would the brand still hold its own if they where so accessible. would love a whole video all about the strategies luxury brands have used, like you mentioned with the perfume and couture

i heard someone say that the H&M x MUGLER collab is "mugler design, H&M material" which isn't super bad ig, but definitely something to note. however, the price being more accesible and thus more people wearing it was a smart move. i got the biker pants and spiral denim. these are forever staying in my wardrobe

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

I think it was a good idea, I mean people cannot expect designer quality at H&M pricing, its just not possible. This was a great medium

@andresserna

4 ай бұрын

OMGGGG the man of the hour. Yes yes I kinda hope more brands do this. Since tiktok will already highlight the couture lines and the RTW lines, maybe add a 3rd “broke bitches” line for povels like me

@andresserna

4 ай бұрын

Social media highlighting the high fashion will still make the label relevant and the affordable line won’t devalue the label

Please do Helmut lang next!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

That would be so interesting, but I would really like to see what Peter do will do before I make a video, you never know

After questionable moves, Muggie is on EVERYONE'S lips..

@understitchYT

8 ай бұрын

yeah more or less

Can you do the designer Romeo Gigli?

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I would love to, but Im not sure how many clicks it would get, so Id rather save him for later when I have more of a guaranteed audience 👑

He went crazy

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

No, he really didnt. People thought that because of his changing appearance, but that was due to a gym accident, not because of his mental health

Thierry Mugler has never gone down!

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Clarins?

El perfume Angel yo lo tuve cuando era poco conocido cuando salio luego vino el boom fue un antes y despues trajo los llamados perfumes gourmand fue su mejor obra colosal y el perfume mas vendido junto a Chanel n5 del mundo durante una decada su obra maestra yo pienso que ni pensaba que iba a gustar tanto Thierry Mugler se hecha de menos en los desfiles el unico diseñador que fue invitado a la exclusiva HAUTE COUTURE

I've been wearing Angel cologne for 10 years and its probably the only cologne i'll ever wear again. I get constant compliments about it and men and women love it.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Its wuite genderless too which I enjoy (not that all scents arent but you get what I mean)

Angel remains to this day my favourite scent.

@understitchYT

9 ай бұрын

It blended so badly with my skin 😭

That motor bike top is baphomet

It’s FASHUNDAY You’re watching Understitch✨

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

🙌🙌🙌

Casey has a vision and his creativity is exceptional. First time I saw his video on KZread I was stunned. Sometimes I wonder how these ideas come from. I love the idea that fashion is made for all.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I hope he can get even more creative in the future too, obvsly rn they are frowing the company so it has to be extremely commercial, so Im looking forwadd to when they can be a bit more spectacular

The Mugler brand was never mass produced. It was always exclusive. And usually worn by Society’s most darigg by fashion icons ( i.e. Grace Jones) What built Mugler’s empire was his perfume, Angel. That’s where Mugler got its wide appeal.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

It couldnt have been mass produced, if you look at the photos from inside the factory that I included in the video, its all done by hand, its amazing

@karolinakuc4783

7 ай бұрын

​@@understitchYTTrue. Who else does smth like that nowadays? Nobody matches such genious

In the furniture are you going to feature Christian Lacroix?

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Oh, 100%, absolutely is a must

@indoora

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT Thank you.

I have seen the h&m ads, 😢 thought the designer was alive and well.🙏🏻💫

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Did you see the comment from the designer that was meant to work on this? They said that it was supposed to be a personal project, but the parent company wanted in and it got changed. so I suppose HM were stuck in a contract for after his death.

@karamuenster

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT I did!! & It's really fascinating how many ppl are watching your videos that had or has a close connection with the main character and express their opinions, just Wow! & kudos to u!! 👀👑🎉🎉

it's a shame Formichetti's vision didn't stick, out of the 3 designers from that era he seemed to understand the brand the best

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Yeah exactly, Im sure there was more to it than it seems from the outside, but it is a shame

@lucasiglesias1894

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT specially since the brand seemed to follow a similar aesthetic to his collections in the last three they showed + the H&M Collab. If anything, we can always count on the fragrance side of the company to reaming consistent

epic bio! wish you where around in the 90's when I wanted to know more about Paris designers of the 1930s #medavogcouture

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Ive actually got a Vionnet video ready to go, i spent a shocking amount of time on it and Im kind of waiting for after fashion week to release it 🤌

@medavog

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT MADELINE IS NOT JUST A COOKIE! SHE IS ONE OF MY FAVORITES AND ALSO STRUGGLED TO FIND MORE ABOUT HER & NINA RICCI. XOXO

Comic Artist of Sailor Moon when Designing Villain Characters Costumes Always inspired by Muglers look

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I actually think they genuinely are, I think that’s where they get a lot of inspiration

Was that Jerry Hall?

I think Koma did a good job. A bit too minimal but vip has started wear mugler again thanks to his work. After he left mugler he has created his own brand which is successful and has great visibility on red carpets, sign that his creativity is loved

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

I dont think anyone that headed the brand was a bad designer, just not everyone fit the vive

Is that a south asian salwar kamiz at 3:18???😮😮

funny thing is, people are ready for a more dramatic ready to wear style with all of the meta and futuristic looks now

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Yes!! Very ready! Its the perfect time for a revival of the brand, I hope they can continue to make it bigger and more luxurious

I first learned of Mugler via a video essay talking about how Sailor Moon is High Fashion and Mugler inspired the Villains' looks... I looked for the shop in SM and was disappointed to only see a perfume shop😢😓😓

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I really recommend trying to find a vintage because the quality is not the same anymore, but they are still quite pricey even vintage to be honest

Say what you want but Casey really knows how to use that Mugler magic. It's ready to wear but it has that 90's couture essence

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

you think so? I think the marketing is doing a very good job, but I think the actual fashion offering could be more dramatic, more theatrical

I absolutely love Alien (it smells like grape soda) and Aura is amazing ❤️

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Not me immediately thinking of Up

@kellyharper8072

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT ?

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

@@kellyharper8072 You know the grape soda badge thing from the movie?

@kellyharper8072

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT I’ve never seen Up. I know, I know…… 🤔

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

@@kellyharper8072 well now you must! And you should watch it in a bath of Alien

Where can I find his last Women's Fashion Show online? It was fall 2001, wasn't it? Does anybody know? Another collection I wish to see again concerns a couture show where you could admire dresses hung from nipple rings. I saw it just once, but KZread's Puritanical & preposterous rules about female bare breasts blocked any potential research. My problem is that I don't remember nog the year or the season, I just know that happened around the year 2000. If any of you could give me some useful information I would be really thankful to.

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Can you message me your email on instagram? If I find it Ill send it over 🥰

@massimosquecco8956

Жыл бұрын

@@understitchYT Thank you so much, Dear one.

This should be titled the Rise, Fall and Rise again of Mugler :)

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

I tried that title before and it was too long for the KZread algorithm, so it is what it is

20:29 calling

Mugler by Formichetti was really amazing, but the aesthetics wasn't appealing to the public back in that time. Otherwise, Casey aesthetics is more commercial, but it's getting bored

@understitchYT

Жыл бұрын

Yeah maybe youre right and thats all it was, that Formichetti was just before his time. I really can't put my finger on why he didnt work for the brand, by all accounts he shouldve been perfect

The silicone sausage episode lives in my mind rent free 🤤🥵

So talented so beyond botched by plastic surgery

@understitchYT

Ай бұрын

He had a car accident and a gym accident, he was trying to fix himself back to how he looked