The immovable object meets the irresistible Rucker. Only one outcome is possible. Well done Keith.

“I’ve gone up one size on the drill bit” You and I have very different drill bit sets.

@frank-t6857

2 жыл бұрын

Indeed true 😄

@marcp1180

2 жыл бұрын

I am jealous of his bits too. I'm one size up to 1/2".

@petemclinc

2 жыл бұрын

I now have drill bit envy...

@garygentry583

2 жыл бұрын

Drill bit envy here as well.. 😀

@MikeBaxterABC

2 жыл бұрын

I have a HAND drill that takes tapered shank drill bits .. it is HUGE .. I have bits for it 1/2" to 1" by 32nd's , and a couple chucks too.

Any time you make a mistake and learn from it, it stops being a mistake and becomes a lesson. A good lesson and an excellent solution.

@tomtke7351

2 жыл бұрын

Edison commented along the way: "I know a thousand ways to NOT make a light bulb!"

@Hoaxer51

2 жыл бұрын

@@tomtke7351, we’ll, at least he had a sense of humor when he said that, Lol

Left hand threads get you every time.

You never know why you need a giant radial drill until you really need one.

@marcp1180

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, Adam Booth would be proud.

@machintelligence

2 жыл бұрын

And Keith's radial drill is the light duty model.

“I win” yea. We all win. So impressed.

use your letter punch to indicate "left hand thread" on the hub. In a hundred years the next person (or AI robot) to fix this will be very appreciative.

@millwrightrick1

2 жыл бұрын

Or use S for sinistro. Yes I have seen this. One of the benefits of a classical for metal worker.

@mayshack

2 жыл бұрын

This bandsaw will be brake rotors in 100 years.

@PeterWMeek

2 жыл бұрын

Don't gas fittings have a groove around the hex to indicate left-hand threads? Spelling it out is no help if the next being that services this is an alien from Planet Bxrftle. :-) You really need to take the long view.

@viperbananas

2 жыл бұрын

It already has L stamped on the face, see 24:48

@danharold3087

2 жыл бұрын

@@mayshack What makes you think we will still be using brake rotors in 100 years? Seriously that would be very sad.

For everyone who wonders about the shallow taper: The taper is there to make sure that the shaft an wheel will fit every time without complicated fitting process. Otherwise the manufacturer has to hit very tight tolerances to ensure no wobble and roundness/balance. A taper angle is easier to hit every time as a diameter. A little bit oversize/undersized in production is no problem. The band-saw was most likely delivered in pieces and assembled in place. The taper ensures a perfect fit every time. This was also the reason to add a left hand thread. If the Machine was assembled in the factory a simple cross pin would have been enough to hold everything together. But with an on place assembly it's not a easy task to drill and ream a cross pin. So thread an nut was much more convenient.

@tomp538

2 жыл бұрын

Insightful... I was thinking the thing might be threaded.

@alandaters8547

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your post.

@cadewey6181

2 жыл бұрын

Exactly right, and if the installer did not tighten the hub enough, the first time it caught in the work the hub tightened itself. Those early machinists, engineers and mechanics made the industrial revolution work.

@ellieprice363

2 жыл бұрын

Very good analysis. Although I never would have guessed this was a tapered fit it makes perfect sense for the reasons you stated.

Ding Ding Ding! The winner and still - champeen, Keith The Teeth Rucker and his bandsaw/drill combo!

I absolutely love the way you make a plan and just go for it! Way to go.

I got a solid chuckle out of your thumbnail for this one, Keith. "I WIN." 😂 Well done! Fascinating to see machines made 120+ years ago using many of the same methods we use today.

Well I just want to say thanks! I was one of the ones who selfishly requested some radial arm drill action. Most of us have no capability to drill massive 2” holes like that and yeah, it was super fun to watch! That drill press pushed through there like it was nothing! Glad it worked out!

I NEVER doubted your success Keith ! lol

Very well done by the master.......

Keith, I never tire of watching you work, and those two words " I Win!" says everything I need to know! Can I start calling you Uncle Keith?

Thank you for showing us also your process of thinking and "problem solving" - this helps most! I learnd lot.

Glad you were able to play with those large drill bits!

You will have to get the shaft out of the belt pulley too. I usually don’t drill all the way through, gives you something to knock against. Once you relieve the internal stresses it’s a piece of cake.

Love the Carlton action! Need more of that in the future. Cheers

I'll confess that I know next to nothing about what you're doing. My dad was an apprentice machinist at White Motor Company in Cleveland, Ohio before WW2. He was drafted in '42 and eventually wound up working on, among other things, the very trucks he had been helping to build, just behind the front lines. After the war he went back to White and studied engineering at night on the GI Bill. In '66 he got a job offer from Lithonia Lighting in Conyers, Georgia, doing what he'd been doing in Cleveland for half again as much pay in a place with a lower cost of living. That's why I came south a week shy of my 15th birthday and despite a couple 1.5 or 2 year's sojourns elsewhere I've always come back to Georgia's piedmont. You are doing what my dad loved to do. Your accent is music to my ears. Your attitude mirrors his very closely. You have a new sub. I ain't gonna do nothing but admire your skill and, perhaps, learn something.

You know a man is a hard worker when he wears overalls AND a work apron.

What a beautiful drill press! This might be the best suited job that Keith has used this radial arm drill press for, it’s exactly what this machine was meant to do. Keith said he wins, yea, like that was ever in doubt! Nice job, looking forward to seeing the rest of this project.

@smashyrashy

Жыл бұрын

Band saw not drill press

@Hoaxer51

Жыл бұрын

@@smashyrashy, Actually I never cared much for that bandsaw, there are others that are nicer and have more options such as self feeding and blade welders like some of the Doall saws out there. But I really enjoy the content of working on and restoring old equipment. So my original post still stands, I really like that drill press, it’s a perfect size and is in great shape. I wish I had one like it.

My 1966 Cub Cadet 122 had a stuck center pin in the front axle. I didn't even try to get it out, I took it to a local machine shop where the machinist had to drill the pin out. He then drilled the axle oversize and bushed it with brass the installed a grease fitting so it wouldn't seize again. I think he had the same smile as Keith when that pin finally came out.

That big radial drill is a great tool for a project like that shaft. Have had to drill out many parts that don't want to cooperate. You did win in the end.

Hi Keith! Great video! You did it! Hard work pays off! I also love the fact that you never gave up! Awesome job! Take care!

Thank you, Keith well done

Great title, Keith! Congratulations!

... love these 'fight to the death' struggles! ... (especially when you can pick the winner before hand)

Love that radial drill, one awesome piece of equipment there

Well done Keith - and very interesting about the LH thread. My Dad had a ‘66 Chrysler and I remember him changing over to snow tires in the driveway and busting a wheel stud off (I think on the driver’s side - but I was just a kid). He found that the studs on that side of the car had LH threads while the ones on the other side were right handed. There ya go - a company answering a question that nobody had asked.

@lwilton

2 жыл бұрын

Chrysler did that on most cars for a long time, and yes, the left side is the one with the LH studs. This is still common on large truck and bus tires. Often (but not always) the end of the stud will have an L or R stamped in the end on wheel studs.

@marcp1180

2 жыл бұрын

At 17 years old I learned that on grandpa and grandma's 1955 Plymouth Belvadere. Dad was around, so no busted lugs, but a lifetime lesson there.

@josephcitizen4195

2 жыл бұрын

These wheels are on the same side of the press (or car if you want to look at it that way) they should have the same LH thread. I also made the LH/RH mistake on a truck axle at work one day. Learning the hard way is sometimes the best way. haha

@alandaters8547

2 жыл бұрын

Back in the day (1950's) Oldsmobiles also had LH threads on one side. Dad showed me that during the tire changing lesson.

@Crewsy

2 жыл бұрын

We had an old ‘66 Dodge Polara that we used to run around the 100 acres my Dad bought as a wood lot that I learned about left hand threads on. After figuring I’d learned enough trying to remove the lug nuts my Dad pointed out the L stamped on the studs and explained that that was the way it was done with the thinking it would prevent them from loosening as you drove. I guess physics must have gotten an upgrade because they stopped doing it that way. 😂🤣

You gotta love a left hand thread. I was just a kid doing a brake job on my fathers VW Dasher. It was probably 1977 or so there abouts. The front brake caliper had a left hand thread banjo bolt on the break line into the caliper. Like a typical kid I thought I knew everything so I continued tightening the banjo bolt while believing I was removing a really tight prick of a bolt. Finally it snapped it off in the caliper. I went to the parts store looking for a replacement bolt and now the caliper because I had beaten the caliper to death trying to remove the threaded section of the bolt. Back then the guy behind the counter had vast knowledg and pointed out the groove in the hex designating a left hand thread. Did I feel like a dumdass buying a new break caliper and bolt. Not long after that I went to a local trade high school and graduated as machinist through the tool and die program. I love the videos on this channel they remind me of the time before computers were all the rage. When welding a bandsaw blade was a necessary skill. Thanks for sharing your shop with KZread

You are a very knowledgeable guy I will say. I've seen you do alot of different work..always inspired me to spread my wings and to keep learning.

Nothing like having the proper tool for the job. God Bless.

Ding dong great work

Persistence and patience always wins out! Nice Job!

A porta-band is one of the handiest tools ever made. Mine isn't battery powered. It's a Porter Cable that I have had for over 30 years and it's had a hard life, but it still works good.

@Jerseyhighlander

2 жыл бұрын

Be happy about that. I started looking into buying a new one recently and they are all 85% plastic now. I'd rather buy an old used one.

After destroying left hand threaded gun part as a teen, I now always pay attention to the thread direction (if possible) before I go whaling on it lol.

Dang Keith! You got medieval on that thing!

Having personally destroyed several things trying to take them apart I can properly appreciate your win getting this shaft removed without damage. Congratulations on a successful operation. Thanks for the video.

Now you know when going to press out the other one have to start heating from the backside first for best chance of success.

For the love of machinery, great work

Always good to put one in the win list. Feel free to paint a tiny shaft with a circle slash threw it on the radial drill with honor sir.

Good job Keith, like always

Thanks for sharing 👍

Keith thank you for making the videos. I personally learn so much from you thank you again

Good Job Keith!

What messes people up sometimes with bicycles is the ones with a one piece crank. Everything on the left side of the crank is left hand thread. The hub cone, locknut and even the pedal. All to keep them from working loose .

That radial drill is worth its weight in gold. 👍👍

Great Job!

Keith, one way you can work with a stuck shaft like that is to leave a stub on the bottom side, outside of the hub, then leave the hole blind or with a substantial shoulder with which to drive the shaft out: the principle being that pulling a shaft tries to shrink the diameter, and pressing or driving a whole shaft tries to expand or mushroom the shaft. In other words, Drill the shaft from the top, then press or knock the shaft out from the top. I learned this replacing BMW valve guides and driving them out undrilled didn't work -- they galled the hole.

That drill is a beast.

Just a suggestion, my father taught me to not drill all the way through a shaft you want to push out. Leave a bottom that is just deeper then the hub that way you can easily punch it out or press it out without damaging the bore. Great video love watching your projects.

@larrywalker7759

2 жыл бұрын

This is exactly how it should be done (leave the opposite end in place to drive the punch against). Driving (or pressing) against the opposite end has the effect of "stretching" the remaining slug, which in turn slightly reduces its diameter, causing it to lose its grip on the bore. I honestly sighed in disbelief when Keith did not use this technique and explain the benefit of leaving a hammering/pressing section in place instead of drilling completely through. But he still won and I do give credit for that.

@cadewey6181

2 жыл бұрын

@@larrywalker7759 but first ya gotta know it is a taper.

@larrywalker7759

2 жыл бұрын

@@cadewey6181 Actually, it applies to straight shafts as well. The only time you would need to know if if was a taper would be if there was a possibility you were trying to move it against the taper. Of course Keith had already determined the shaft was larger on the side corresponding to the direction he wanted it to move in, and that pretty much proved he was moving it with the taper.

Good quote "I win, again"

I always rely on the actual shaft rotation's direction to determine RH or LH thread.

Carlton radial drill: Finally! A worthy opponent!

Keith’s a genious

Great solution and tenacity to not give up!

Nice work, Keith.

it was a good plan, it worked out as planned. good work, liked it!

well done !!!!

Nice work Keith. Best of the Holiday Season to you and those whom help you. Anxious to see the new shaft being machined.

Love the content and thankful you do all you do sir!!!

Nice job sir, same way in our shop, it either gives or breaks😉😂😂😂😂

well done yes it can be difficult to find the center in a shoulder sometimes but you still succeeded, because you are professional.

Persistence pays off again. The harder the problem, the sweeter the reward. Congratulation on getting it out. A lot of work, but than that makes the reward even better. Thumbs Up!

Good one. Finally.

Keith, this is something you may already know but I'll throw it out there. One person you may have as a resource on the replacing of the wooden wheels on the saw is Dave Engels of Engels Coach Shop. He certainly is a resource for possibly supplying the wood and almost definitely bending it.

Keith brings us armchair mechanics an insight into methods and designs of the past. I watched this shaft and hub separation with interest because I couldn't predict how it was assembled. I was voting for an unusual method of keying or pinning. I began to lean towards just a taper fit after Keith confirmed the shaft diameter variance on each side of the wheel hub. Keith has some fun toys. Few of us hobbyists can justify a radial drill or has the shop space to accommodate this class of machine. I cringed when Keith chose to drill the final pass with only .010" wall thickness margin. Fortunately he didn't destroy the hub, but he did damage it. His radial drill is an impressive machine, but drilling with that setup pretty much guaranteed failure. Fortunately he had expanding taper to compensate. Each of us has made similar poor choices when we just "don't know" what we will encounter. Sometimes we score a win and sometimes we suffer regret. This choice brought back the memory of a fight I had removing an OEM specific hydraulic cylinder from a one-of-a-kind critical milling machine in our shop. The repair was a simple rod seal leak, but access to the cylinder was extremely restricted. I spent hours removing the rod end but knowing full well that the threads were increasingly galling in the process. Limited access forced me eventually to shamefully hold the free spinning rod with a pipe wrench as I fought the increasing galling resistance with the rod end nut. I won the battle, but trashed a nearly 30 year old chromed rod surface with the pipe wrench teeth. Production demands required immediate repairs. We had no in house capacity to spray weld and regrind the rod and lead times to replace the cylinder were likely 6 months. I made the rod damage repairs with JB Weld or possibly an industrial product equivalent. The cheesey rod repair lasted many years and is likely still lasting. I retired in 2017 and cannot easily validate. What was deeply humiliating after finally getting the problematic rod nut off was that it was locked in place with a set screw against the rod threads. The cylinder had run around-the-clock production for decades without failure. Its location warranted no PM and nearly 30 years of filth, funk, extremely tight service access, and OEM paint obscured the presence of the set screw. I was anticipating an "ahah" moment of a revealed pin in Keith's repair that brought deep regret for the oversight. Fortunately for Keith and his customer this was a win! Mechanical design is an evolving dynamic. Mechanical assembly and application improvement changes over time. I was trying to explain vehicle wheel bearing design employing tapered roller bearings to a 13 year old grandson last night. He has grown up in the age of modern wheel bearing packs. My verbal description caused him some puzzlement. The armchair reporting on why this taper assembly was employed revealed some very interesting suggestions. I like some of them, but we will likely miss guess. The engineers that designed it and employed it aren't around to correct us. Our shop owned 2 MAS radial drill presses of the same class as Keith's. After using one of these has often made me dream of some day having my own. Kudos to Keith for owning it, owning tooling and knowing how to adequately run it!

“The witless destroy what they don't understand.” ― Loretta Chase, Dukes Prefer Blondes

Relief drilling was my first thought on first sight

Thank you! My love for mechanical learning has been a love since I can remember. A machine working the way it was intended to? Is like music to my ears. Watching this is show, and Almost any good Video, On Machining and machines working in Unisys, is very relaxing to my mind. Good job.

KEITH WINS!!! And the crowd goes wild...AAAAAAAHHHH GO KEITH, GO!! Nice detective work after getting it out and a good plan for making that happen. Always makes it nice to know what's in store for the second round. I don't do any of this kind of work and have no plans to start but I love to watch your videos. You put everything out there in an upbeat enjoyable manor and I always get to learn something. I like that.

Now all the work you put into the Radial Drill and Universal Table pays for itself! A big work piece like that wheel is just what the drill is designed for! Good luck with the other wheel!

Great video Well done Keith 👊🏻 loving the perseverance..

Thanks for allowing us to look over your shoulder, great solution and video🤗😎🤗😎

I’ll bet you bless that gantry crane every time you use it.

@frank-t6857

2 жыл бұрын

If it was electric driven it would have been so easy to use but mechanical gives a good exercise

@JimConnelley

2 жыл бұрын

@@frank-t6857 Mechanical: no cords, no batterys.

@royreynolds108

2 жыл бұрын

@@JimConnelley And more precise than electric, from experience.

When I saw the square nuts holding the wooden part to the spokeswas not allighned, I thought of Dave Engel of Engels coach shop allways clocking the bolts he tighten.

"It came out easy" says the guy with a half-million-dollar machine shop in his back yard. Keith, you kill me sometimes.

when your hole is big enough, a little weld will shrink the shaft. great job!

*- KEITH, have you ever tried using diesel starting fluid (ether) to cool a bored out piece so that it shrinks and drops out of a fitting more easily ? ? ?* *- Blowing compressed air inside to make the starting fluid evaporate fast to better cool the metal fast helps.* *- Acetone with it high rate of evaporation will work, too, or even Isopropyl rubbing alcohol, both with assisted compressed air evaporation will work, too.*

you are the SHAFT MASTER...!

Now that is a drill press! Could have used one like that a hundred or six times over the years. Exceptional item!

You did exactly what I would have done, great minds think alike

Good job. I admire your knowledge, persistence and skill at solving this problem. I'm enjoying this series.

Well done! I'm not a machinist but I find these old machines fascinating! Keep up the great work and videos!

well done!

awesome job!

Thank you for sharing. Watched and enjoyed.

Lots of love from Canada Keith, thank you for more excellent content. I always look forward to your videos.

Great video Keith! Really enjoying the series and learning along the way! Looking forward to the next one!

That was a pleasure to watch. Great work and I look forward to each additional video of this restoration.

Great work.

Some older cars used tapered axles on the rear, and have had to remove in order to work on. There was a designated puller that you bolted onto the studs that the wheels mounted on. There was a special gizmo that slipped onto the end of the screw that went through the puller into a center drill on the end of the axle, and it had designed hammer areas cast on it whereupon you practiced your aim with a 6 to 12 pound hammer until it turned no more. You then repositioned your self with a leg on each side, facing out, and whaled on the end of the puller. The hub released from the axle and life was good, repeat on the other side of the car. Did many times, but the first time was informative for sure! Keith, it looks like you would have been a great blacksmith in a different era. But power makes life so much easier. That little bandsaw works miracles. Doing that by hand or with a torch would be possible, but batteries rule nowadays, eh?

Great work Mr. Rucker!!!!

Always learning. Those that make no mistakes, never learn.

Great Job Keith, You may want to check the key in the arm elevation screw, Looks like it's getting loose. It was moving a little bit when you were bringing the arm down @20:17.

Another great methodical approach to a problem (including your efforts in the first video) resulting in a job well done! Thank You!

Nice job Keith, you got there!

Great job!

Well done, enjoyed watching a pro at work....