I love this presentation far better than a person talking, in my opinion. The images, description, and audio, and the wording and phrasing are both informative and easy to understand. Thank you for making this slideshow it help me greatly!!👌🏾

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

93% approval ratio on this video, 89.6% over all on the channel. It’s hard to convince that percent of people, that we actually went to the moon : ) Thanks guys!

I like the format of this video better than some guy talking about the starter on his car which might be totally different than my problem especially since my problem is on a boat, (lol) and you were directly addressing my problem (the click,no start) . You saved me from going even deeper into a rabbit hole of blaming after market manufactures and trying to find mechanical solutions (shims , reshaping housing, replacing flywheel ect.) I was used to the Ford type starters where if it spun fast enough it would engage, so I only checked voltage drop in the heavy wire, my switch wire was down to 6 volts and it was still starting the engine every 3rd or 4th try.So after all this parts changing a 4 ft wire was all I needed to keep my 45 year old boat running. THANK YOU

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

I like it when I help out a boat guy. One of the all around best mechanic I worked with, started out as boat mechanic. I’ve see this problem brought to me by more than one frustrated customer; tired of spending money and getting the same result, still the same single click. With a quick test light test at the primary wire on solenoid, the light barely glowed when the solenoid clicks. *But it did glow some! That always solved the problem for me.* It was smart to do a voltage drop test on the primary wire, most don’t think of that. Nor was it suggested in this video. But that voltage drop, once enough to produce a click at the solenoid, can, with an experienced eye, also be picked off with a test light. Thanks for the post. xMech

his is by far the best test and Step by step instructions I have ever seen. These type video's are what helps all he young mechanics that do not have years of seeing it before under the belt.

@apolouo

11 ай бұрын

Glad you found it helpful.

Absolutely you are the auto electrical guru of KZread !! And a most patient man, willing to respond to so many questions, some already answered in the video. Kudos to you. I believe after watching, and reading all the comments, I can fix my 98 E350 V10 SuperBeast tomorrow. New starter, jumped the relay across the big posts. Click. Tomorrow I will jump the hot to the smaller post and probably have to replace the relay. All wires far as the eye can see are cleaned and tight. I will seek a Ford one click video in your lineup tonight if you have one. Thanks for being the most informative person I’ve seen on here, and also the most patient and willing to help. God bless

@apolouo

5 ай бұрын

Answer a question for me. When you say you jumped “the big posts,” of the sw3 (relay) and just got a click, were you using a jumper cables or a piece piece of a wire or accomplished this?

What a great informational video. The explanation and the graphics really explain the issue and the solution. I have had this intermittent problem with my Karmann Ghia for the past 3 months and I finally have the solution! Thank you and cheers from California.

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

I actually learned this fix from a German trained air cooled mechanic, back in the early 80s.

I had the same problem on my 1973 620 pick up it would just click and I just installed the Ford solenoid from Amazon for about $7 thanks for this video now it is starts every time now like a new car thank you buddy and God bless

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Keep that truck going, there’s not enough vintage trucks on the road. Thanks for the post.

Thank you!!!!!! My gator is running now, can't say how Grateful I am! It's been ages and everything else what useless online. Thank you again!!!

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Here’s what you meant to say: Thank you!!!!!! My Gator is cranking just fine now, can’t say how grateful I am, It’s been ages and everything else on the internet is totally useless. If you followed any sort of logic, the other guys on the Internet don’t have any sort of clue what they’re talking about when it comes to this issue. . Thank you again!!! I apologize for over plagiarizing what you wrote, but I couldn’t resist it on this one. Thanks for the post, and I’m glad your Gator is back up again. Regards, xMech

Very informative. I have a '84 S-10 V6 with this problem. The battery cables are previously hacked so I will replace anyway. But like a dummy I listened to a ' knows enough to be dangerous ' neighbor and wasted over $20 on an ignition switch to no avail. And I'd already seen this video multiple times! I just spent $11 on a universal Ford starter relay/solenoid on Amz and will give this a try finally. lol. To be clear the engine starts fine when I attach a remote starter switch to the starter itself.

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

To help you and your neighbor out. If you would have attached a test light to the ignition sw. terminal on the solenoid. You would have seen the light illuminate on crank - but probably appear dim. That would have told you the ignition sw. was operating correctly. You’re so close to eliminating your problem.

I can't believe you respond to all these comments. You're the man! [my turn]. 1969 Ford V8, single click no start with no bog on lights when you turn the key. It only happens when it's been cold (such as in the morning after a cold night). To be clear you're saying the cause is the wiring from the ignition switch and/or the ignition switch itself? It's a pretty thumping click. Thanks.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Because you mentioned it being a “pretty thumping click” this could mean your starter craps itself at the first sign of starter demand amperage, which is technically possible I guess. Or, and this is more likely, the sw3 (the Ford starter solenoid on the finder) is where the click is coming from. When it’s cold with a remote start or wire, jump the battery side (large battery cable) of the sw3 to the small terminal (the small wire coming from the neutral safety switch) of the sw3, this essentially bypasses the ignition switch, so one person can make this test. Be in park here. If the problem happens the click will probably come from the sw3. If it does replace it. But if your starter *thuds* replace that. It’s sort of yes and sort of no to your question about the wiring: this video isn’t really for Ford but some principles apply. I’m saying all the wiring from the battery up to a Chevy type starter solenoid all build resistance over time, and this resistance only half works the solenoid. But this isn’t you problem.

I think this is very good video and one of the best, I'm watching this while trying to do figure out an intermittent starting issue of my Peterbilt where I just get one click and of course no start. I've also noticed that when ever I put load on the system by turning headlights on for example the voltage drops. I'll try tomorrow again having watched this informative video. Thanks for uploading.

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

If your voltage is dumping on starter demand, or during a similar load, you most likely have a voltage drop, and not the main issue this video address. Interestingly though, voltage drops can mimic the single click problem. And if you don’t understand the difference here, you can misinterpret the clunk sound of a lose cable as the single click sound. Do this, if you have a volt meter, check the voltage drop between the *battery terminals and the battery posts* during cranking. If you’re not sure what I’m talking about, one lead of a volt meter goes to the battery post and the other leads goes to the battery terminal - less than an inch away from the other lead. Any reading more than .5 of a volt is too high, and any reading of - .5 volts or less, only means you’ve got the leads wrong. If you brooch the .5 volts, your problem lies in that connection. It’s important to remember this test is always performed while cranking. There are many videos on KZread demonstrating how to perform voltage drop tests. I would suggest looking into those. Post back if you get stuck.

I could learn from you !! Thanks this is from a total know nothing at all in mechanics, and I understood the assignment.

@apolouo

3 ай бұрын

Worded a bit odd, but I get what you’re saying, thanks. What you’re seeing is methodical logic.

Love the video I just got a junk car that had a sr20 and i had the same problem good battery just one click thinking about replacing the starter but I’ll have to look at the wiring

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I assume when you say junk you mean old, if that’s the case than the wiring from your battery up to the where the small wire connects to your solenoid has built up resistant, it’s typically not just in one wire. If you do the fix this video suggests your cranking problems will be over. Thanks for the post.

Thx a lot for the video. I have a feeling this is related to my start problems. The car can work fine for weeks, but than suddenly make the single click, and nothing happens. Sometimes it will start after trying to turn the key 10-50 times, and other times i can come back hours later, and it will start, no problem.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry I didn’t notice your post, if your vehicle fails the second test in this video (The primary wiring test) then yep you have this problem. Thanks for the post.

Extremely helpful and informative. Definitely provides a better understanding of the ignition system. Thanks!

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. It’s actually the cranking system. But ignition systems work very similar. Small in 12 volts - big out 40000 volts. Starter solenoids amps - 10 maybe 12 amps, starter cranking amps hundreds. Actually I borrowed the terms primary and secondary, from the ignition system. Thanks again for the post.

It worked for me! After replacing the solenoid and battery, I found a bad connection in the small wire going from the solenoid to a 15 amp fuse. Replaced the wire terminal and she starts right up. Wish I would’ve found your video 2 weeks ago!

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the post.

@egyptinheartname

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo please i have that click in my car and not start they said engine seized and try to move the crank and it not move but i want to ask this sound can it be from engine seized or engine works with noisy voices or that only click means engine seized too plus electricity explanation that u done

@egyptinheartname

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo please help me because a lot of mechanic told me before that click means engine locked up i done it by my self before as u explain and it worked but now i tried and not work and done that mechanic try to do that crank wheel move but it not moving i want confirm from u does that single click means engine dead too or must be as u explain even if engine died should starter make sound or any thing not just click please help me to see if i get new engine or repair

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

*Engines that seized make a clunk sound not a click sound when attempting to start.* If the crankshaft won’t move your engine is probably douched. It could be a lot of things, on four cylinders A timing belt could be broke and A piston is stuck on a valve. Will the crankshaft rotate either direction? It could’ve also sucked a valve, that can jack things up real good. One time though I did run across an engine with the starter stuck in the crank position, and I believe it did make a clicking sound when attempting to start. Remove your starter and see if the crank spins. Probably won’t though. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.

@egyptinheartname

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo thanks for ur answer the crankshaft not rotate any direction it just stuck so click sound can be also if that things u say about timing belt broke or piston stuck on valve

I've bought a 73 datsun that has this problem, I have new starter, new battery, new ignition, new terminals with soldered cables and keeps clicking but I did the test and it cranks everytime, this is the perfect video for me,,i already ordered the relay,,,thank you very much

@MrLeo92335

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo the truck came with a new starter and it needed a new battery and new terminals ,for this problem I only clean and solder the cables and I just bought the relay 10 bucks so its great and I have everything new, thanks again

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Oh, my mistake, I deal with so many posts of people who are at their wits end buying starters, batteries, etc... when all along they just needed an inexpensive relay and some wire. I had a 73 Toyota truck back in the early 80’s I loved that truck!

Great video! I watch your video and I am able to fix the click and no start issue for my generator! It was just a bad positive cable to the battery, easy like that! So I come back to leave a comment and a like!

@apolouo

11 ай бұрын

Yeah, I assuming you’re saying the cause was a loose battery cable. That would have been a complete voltage drop between the cable and the battery post. That’s how you find those. Thanks for the post.

Wow im grateful i came across this video, someone has a 2008 Ford Expedition the starter was replaced 3 months ago and its making one click, but before that i didn't know the owner replaced the starter so when i came to check it out i saw the battery termianls were corroded so i cleaned them off jumped the truck but the starter made the one click noise. I will definitely check the ground cables and connections if i didn't see this video i was gonna take the starter out and bench test it to see if it was defective 😂😂

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

This video really doesn’t translate well to Fords, so it’s possible the starter could be bad. But I’d make sure the SW3 (starter relay) has a good ground or that it’s what’s bad.

Good job!!! Its my secondary. Full charge and lights go out. 1977 Corvette.

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the post.

Thanks a lot, you may have just solved my problem.

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful.

My 95 ranger is currently doing this, and before even taking a look at it before I bought it, I went and bought a new battery and starter only to not fix the issue. This test for the primary and secondary is awesome and I will be trying it out tomorrow. I’m getting power all the way down at the fusible link and all, but it’s not consistent. The positive battery cable and terminal connector was changed years ago, but it’s a crimp on, I will be inspecting wires and replacing those to start with tomorrow. It’s something simple and I’m overlooking it. Start simple, and then move into bigger areas…I was working backwards on this one.

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

This video isn’t about Fords, but that’s not a problem. I’m at a Christmas get together right now, but later I’ll go through what you covered, seems pretty thought out, I’ll get back to you tomorrow.

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Ok, If you’re not getting consistent power flow through the fusible link THEN, its supply, which is the connection at the positive battery cable could be the problem. If I’m right, your Ford will flunk the secondary test, The whole secondary system will take a dive at starter demand (cranking) time if the problem occurs. If this is occurring, the voltage will dump at positive TERMINAL at starter demand , but will hardly change at that battery POST. You also could be losing it only in your fusible link, and not at the terminal, which means you’re losing your primary side, in other words The key going to your Sw3 (starter relay), that’s a little less likely because you said those were changed. I’m liking The battery terminal for this one. Check real good how the fusible is installed though! Check it out and let me know what you find.

@Xmech. I bought a 96 GMC Yukon SLT and after I had the motor refreshed at a shop 8 months later I ran into the same issue. Got new battery, new starter, and checked all wiring on the steering column. Nothing. Got the SW-3 yesterday and it solved the problem. I was stumped and was about to let the guys at the shop replace the vortex 350 with a lq9 and be done thanks man

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah... it’s an annoying problem isn’t it.

On my regal I switched out ignition switch, starter (twice) alternator & bought a new $220 battery . And still have to jump the starter to crank it. I just found this video & found a quick race heavy duty ford relay on amazon for $20 . My regal was doin exactly this noise thanks for this video and instructions on how to wire it up I can’t wait to install tired of jumping starting the starter

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Ok, One of the main points of this video is that the secondary and primary are separate. Two totally different circuits. The single click issue is a problem in the primary wiring, not the secondary. Jumping your battery only affects the secondary, not the primary. So technically, you should have the same problem after installing your new relay. Before you go to the trouble of wire in the relay. like in the video, get under your vehicle and jump the large cable at the starter to the small solenoid wire. If this cranks it every time, the relay will fix it. But if this doesn’t crank it every time, the relay won’t fix it. Jumping a vehicle with the primary wiring issue shouldn’t crank the starter. *Jump the cable and small wire at the solenoid, this test is conclusive.*

@betosgarage

4 жыл бұрын

xMech i jumped the solenoid not the battery

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

A-ha, If you jumped the small wire at the solenoid, your new relay (sw3 in your case) will fix it. You did say you jumped the *starter* I missed that. Most people aren’t that smart. :-) The relay will make you a happy camper.

@betosgarage

4 жыл бұрын

xMech haha yea bro i just placed order on the “quickCar” ford type starter solenoid relay on amazon for $20 . Looks just like your images hopefully that’s it , I had to carry a long screw driver in my regal for a while . I was able to reach in between the headers to jump that solenoid haha

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

I have an update to this video on my site, it has the same name as this video. On that one there is a schematic, if you’re not sure about anything. Sounds like that’s not gonna be a problem though.

You're a legend, thanks so much!!! ❤

@apolouo

5 ай бұрын

Legend is probably a stretch, Besides my training and experience, my big advantage is, I always apply logic to the problem.

Have a 2010 VW Routan(Chrysler). I had the exact problem. This fix may not fix everyone's but it did mine. It is likely not the starter or the battery. If the starter is clicking then it is not the NSS at all. The NSS prevents the starter from doing anything. So check that off. Switching your gears is NOT fixing the problem. It's only a coincidence that it works after. I have this problem after my first OEM starter blew and a new (re-man) one was put in by dealer and sometime after my trans was replaced/fixed for a whirring problem. This problem went on for several years and slowly got worse. This year.(2020) It would happen everyday and almost everytime I tried to start it. Put 2 starters on it, same thing, battery good, etc. Weird it hardly ever happened in the winter. I'm believing now it's because of the drier weather. Now after watching this video I decided to check the grounds. (kzread.info/dash/bejne/o5iHk7SuYdaceJc.html). To make this short. I replaced the broken ground strap that is on the passenger side engine compartment that grounds the block to the frame. Mine was broken as you will likely find yours to be. (www.chryslerminivan.net/threads/ground-strap-broken.170175/) Then I removed both cables on the starter (There are 2) and cleaned them with a power drill with wire brush attached. (nice and shiney) Then I removed the eyelet ground wire from the battery to the frame (located inside engine compartment behind drivers side headlight) Cleaned that the same way.(nice and shiney, both eyelet and post). Next do the same for ground wire that screws onto the transmission housing. (power drill, wire brush, bare metal) Tighten up. Clean battery posts too if yours are crappy. Basically, you're just not having a good enough ground to spin that starter. Haven't had the problem since, over 2 weeks now. Problem: One click, no start. Solved: Cleaned ground connections and the "hot" connections to starter.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Engine to frame grounding straps are usually thin and about A quarter inch wide, which tells you right there, they don’t carry starter cranking current. In other words, your idea that “not enough grounding to spin the starter” is simply inaccurate. In other other words, you have no clue what was actually causing your problem. What your problem probably was, is your vehicle was wired from the factory so that a poor ground at the grounding strap could somehow effect the key to starter solenoid operation. So in essence you fixed a problem in the primary not the secondary. I went into depth here because I don’t want other people thinking that engine to frame grounding straps carry starter cranking current, that could get very confusing, your post illustrates that. There is one other possibility here, your *battery to engine cable* was poorly grounded and the starter on primary or the secondary side was hunting a better ground through that grounding strap, if it was actually the motor itself (secondary) current that was hunting the ground, there would have been some slow cranking, and it burnt your grounding strap in half, it didn’t break. This is unlikely but it is possible. I’ve seen a poor *battery to engine grounds* melt a choke cables once. Be respectful, don’t flood my other videos with similar content, your poor troubleshooting diagnosis can confuse others.

I totally understand your logic. It makes perfect sense. But, same scenario, what if tapping on the starter is what fixes the single click issue? My theory is that the solenoid is moving the starter armature out, but the pinion is hitting a tooth on the FW (short stroke) and preventing the solenoid from closing the starter motor circuit. Thoughts?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Doesn’t your scenario beg the question: if the bendix moves as far as you’re suggesting, wouldn’t that mean the solenoid completed the secondary connection inside itself. But that’s not what’s happening, the secondary isn’t taped. I’ve never done it, but theoretically you could remove the battery cable from the battery to the starter and you would still get the exact same click sound; if you were having this problem. Or you could find a car with this problem and also has a torque converter cover and look for yourself, the bendix isn’t traveling as far as what you think. Anyway, if the bendix gear actually came into contact with the ring gear or flex plate that would make an entire different sound than the sound the single click problem makes. There are two windings inside the solenoid, the *push* and the *hold* windings. (Mechanic school was a long time ago, but I think the push windings needs more current than the hold windings.)The push windings come first, the single click issue comes from that first winding not having enough current to get the plunger to the hold windings. Because of low current and against spring tension the plunger barely even budges, and the Spring tension then forces the plunger back to its starting position. It all happens in a flash, and that’s the click sound, not the bendix gear hitting the flex plate. Good question though.

Great video! Thank you for the great content! I'm having this issue but solves when passing current from another STARTED car, my car then cranks works at first key turn, but has to be on ~14V. Already checked with a new battery, but got the same single solid click with the same intensity as with my battery. Not sure how to run the test you show in the video since my solenoid has 2 small wires instead of a control post.. Are those small wires 12V and ground?

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Ok, your Tealdi first threw me off a little, I read it as negative 14 volts. Please tell me what Is the year make and model of your vehicle?

Hello Mr. I appreciate the effort that you've made in that video. But I have a question: In my American car (2006) when I try to start it I hear a click twice (and there is a duration maybe 3-5 sec between the two clicks + the first one usually is louder than the other ). So what does that mean? And what are the possible solutions please? Sorry for the bothering. I hope for you a nice day.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

If all you’ve described is happening on a single turn of the key, then it’s probably the starter motor inside the starter itself. If your starter can be gotten to easy try the jump at 2:25 into this video, if I’m right you’ll hear the two click you always hear, if so replace the starter. But if this jump cranks your starter every time, something else is going on. If this is the case post back and i’ll help you figure it out.

I’ve owned over 9+ Air cooled Beetles and I can tell you with confidence that it’s definitely a bad solenoid. Since they are separate from the Starter they get wonky act bitchy a lot due to age. These old cars need to be totally rewired depending on how well it was kept. Elements kill the wires in Air Cooled cars. I suggest you run a healthy hot side wire to the solenoid . I get the feeling the juice to the solenoid is lacking. But again because of age and stagnant aftermarket, the gremlins come with the territory. The stories I got from being stranded by my Bugs, I could write a book. Good luck !

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I can tell you with absolutely, because I trained under German trained air cooled mechanics, the solenoid usually isn’t the problem, resistance in the primary wire is. You’re making that case by suggesting all The wiring needs replacing. “Run a hot wire to the solenoid”, (I think you mean, run a different power source, other than the one coming from the key). That’s all I talk about. I tend not to rely on luck, logic seems to work better.

That is an excellent vid,explaination! My 07 Cummins has been clicking for over a year. Multiple clicks with one turn of the key turn. Takes 10 or 20 turns sometimes, then sometimes she starts w one turn. I'm gonna try the old Ford relay fix. I'm subbed

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

This won’t fix multiple clicking. Multiple clicking is usually always the battery. Tell me a little more about it.

@donnareeves9613

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo Like my car...he keeps turning the key, a few times fast so it clicks one after another until it just starts. So what should I do?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Ok, well it being a Diesel engine could explain the confusion here. Do this, without running yourself over make the jump on your starter @ 2:25 into this video here, and let me know if that starts it every time. I’m not a diesel mechanic but I think there’s some associated multiple clicking on diesels when the glow plugs aren’t warmed up, and for other reasons i’m not 100% familiar with. But go ahead and perform the jump I mentioned above, and let me know what happens. I also need to know if there’s any hydraulics this engine works. What kind of vehicle is this cummins engine in?

I've done the test in your video. Jump the solinoid hot terminals and the started turns over. Then try a new wire and jump from battery side on solinoid, click...click. Tried directly from battery,click. Even hooked up two good batteries parallel,click. Same problem with new solinoid and even with old one. Evert connection was checked and clean. Even ran new wires to switch, click still even with new switch. The solinoid is not mounted on the starter.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I’m assuming this is a Ford. If it is jump the two large terminals on the stater relay with one side of a set of *jumper cables.* If that starts it every time the relay is bad or has a bad ground. In your post you say you used a “wire” not a cable to do all the testing, so it may not be a Ford, if it isn’t let me know, there’s something I need to be clear about before helping.

Best video if u r working on e 90 bmw 3 series 2006-2013

@apolouo

Ай бұрын

Thanks man.

Great video, My e46 330i, started clicking just once, I replaced battery, still clicked once, (Ive had a weak battery before and know it still tried to turn over) I then removed half the engine to remove the starter motor and to my disbelief it works absolutely fine on a bench. So we are saying it is the wiring going to the two small connectors on the starter that is at fault?

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, soft of. If you have *two small* wires at the solenoid, it’s only ONE of those. The primary is essentially the wiring leaving from the battery - to the ignition switch - to the neutral safety switch, then to the solenoid. Voltage is dropping in that wiring before starter demand, not allowing the solenoid to fully work. It fools most people, including mechanics, because even if that connection was tested say with a test light or meter. Voltage will *show up* , so most people move on. But their mistake is, that voltage isn’t enough.

Hey, I'm having a click no crank problem on my Ls swapped malibu for a long time now trying to diagnose it. The battery is in the trunk and the main battery cable is run to a distribution block on the firewall. The battery ground is bolted under the trunk. I have been messing around with tests between 2 starters and cant get either to work when bolted into the car. Bench testing, the starter works as it should. When bolted in it clicks once. When bolted in and wired, I tried jumping the large wire to the small one and the same problem just clicks once. I'm thinking it may be a ground problem possibly. I put a ground strap directly from the starter bolt to the frame and still no change. Not sure if this is causing an effect on the grounding of the starter but both starter bolts are Heli-coiled into the block because the old bolts stripped the hole. I even ran jumper cables to the starter case to the negative terminal on the battery and the same issue. Any help would be gratefully appreciated, started this swap a year ago yesterday and hasn't ran since. About a month ago I got it to turn over and start for about a second by jumping the battery in my malibu to another car that was running. Haven't tried that on the new setup though.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Ok, from your post it appears you have a battery in the trunk and one in the engine compartment too. If the starters are fine bench testing them but did not working in the vehicle, that also includes jumping the big cable to the little wire *(this test is crucial)* then your problem is going to be a voltage drop on starter demand. Here’s what I would do, during attempted cranking check for voltage drops *at all The battery posts and any and all battery cable connections, where ever they might be.* It sounds like you probably know how to do a voltage drop test, but if you don’t KZread it. Over .5 volts you’ve found the problem. The Single click issue that’s described in this video has a very distinct sound. A starter taking a dive because of the voltage drop in the secondary, has a similar sound but it’s louder, it confuses most people. Do the voltage drop tests and see what they tell you. You’ll need two people to do these tests, especially with your set up.

Hi, thanks for the video. I'm new to working on cars and trying to diagnose the click problem on an 02 TJ. I'm getting the single click, but in addition it shorts out the power to the jeep and I have to remove the negative battery lead and put it back on to get power back. I've got new battery cables coming this weekend to start there, but would the starter/solenoid be something that would short out the power? Thanks!

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

On starter demand, in other words, trying to crank the thing. If you’re losing all power to everything (that’s not want’s commonly referred to as a short.) Rather, it’s probably a major voltage dump somewhere, maybe your battery is toast, or you have a high voltage drop at a *cable* ends. Either way, you have a battery coming. If that doesn’t fix it, post back. BTW, make sure the battery terminals are clean and properly tightened, when replacing the battery. If it was just the solenoid causing the issue, you wouldn’t lose all power to the rest of the system. Cranking system 101. Thanks for the post.

@mattkeefe7728

Жыл бұрын

@@apolouo the cables/terminal swap has resolved the issue. Thanks for the quick reply and helpful video.

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

Glad to help.

this video has information i have not seen before! thank you! but is this ONLY for a single click? i’m having an issue with my 2021 WRX STi where when i push in the clutch and push start, the car clicks loudly then about 2 seconds later it clicks again. almost like the starter is engaging then disengaging. i can feel the click so it has to be something mechanical, right? replaced the battery and it has even less idle voltage than my old one! (car powered on, engine off) the old battery had on average 12.6v. when i tried to crank it went as low as 11.6v. new battery is at around 11.8v and attempting to crank lowers to 11.2v. SOMETIMES it will reach 12.6-12.8 idling. (again car powered on, engine off bc it doesn’t even get a chance to turn over) no warnings whatsoever. i had driven it the same morning it went out! it was raining heavily, but i have plastic shielding underneath my car to minimize moisture getting inside the bay. i will start by checking fuses and connections to ensure it’s not a power issue.

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

First off, you have some terms wrong: Battery voltage when engine, key off, not running is called *Battery Surface charge.* Voltage while idling is alternator output, and it goes up with RPMs. Should be around 13.7 - 14 volts @ 2500 RPMs. Surface charge should always be above 12.6 - 12.7ish. Lower then this with a new battery, most likely indicates a charging problem. Surface charge check *should always be checked at the battery posts, not the cables terminals* there could be a voltage drop between them. Voltage while cranking is called *Starter demand* voltage, and it should never fall below 10.5. This too should always be checked at the battery posts, not the cable terminals. You said your battery voltage didn’t drop below around 11 at starter demand, which is ok if it actually cranked. First thing I would do on this one is: check for any voltage drops between the battery posts and the cable terminals, and everywhere else in the secondary. Over .5 volts you’ve found your problem. There’s plenty of KZread stuff on finding voltage drops. Fuses cause opens, your problem isn’t an open! Research how to do a voltage drop test, and get back to me - if that doesn’t solve your issue. Also, this is a pretty late model vehicle. There could be some atypical component in the cranking system, causing the issue. That would be a one off variable though.

Just from looking at pic @ 3:29, if the primary circuit always works when you bypass the primary circuit with straight +bat power to solenoid, then (correct me if wrong) that would mean that the original primary circuit is not getting enough juice thru small wires at times. When rewired like pic (3:29). That tells me that 1---the new solenoid (ford) probably requires less power (current) than original solenoid. 2--- The original primary would probably work if wiring were bigger. Bigger wires = more power than small wires. 3---The new wiring works because the new (secondary) Primary has that big +bat wire going thru half the circuit (thru new ford solenoid to old solenoid) which is probably providing enough power to engage the old solenoid vs power from small wires from original set up. If you were to check current in both solenoids in new set up; ford primary (less resistance) = less power required and old solenoid (higher resistance) = more pkwer required OOOORRRRR old solenoid now getting much better current (X power) because of bigger wire going thru half of new secondary primary circuit. Power on old primary circuit = not enough to engage old solenoid. Power on NEW primary circuit = enough to engage old solenoid because of bigger wire/s. Just off top of my head. Get the gist? CORRECT ME IF WRONG.

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

1--- Yes, the current draw for the Ford SW3 (starter relay) is less than the current draw the solenoid requires. 2--- Correct, it’s my opinion, had all the manufacturers used 10 gauge wire, instead of 12 gauge, this problem would probably never exist. Or definitely be diminished. 3--- When you say half the circuit, i’m assuming you mean much less primary wiring? I’m not positive I understand your point on this one. If that’s your point, you’re actually reducing the amount of primary wiring by 70% or more. That’s because the Ford solenoid never fails to energize at the present current supplied to it with vehicles with this issue. Essentially the primary is reduced to the loop from the starter, back to the starter. Maybe this will help. I’ve never used an inductive amp probe to compare the draw in the primary after this repair, versus the draw on the primary Circuit of a vehicle with this type starter, with no cranking issues. So I’m not sure which would draw more amps, maybe neither. I don’t fix things that aren’t busted :-) but if that’s your question it’s an interesting one, by sort of irrelevant. This fix works 100% of the time, so I move on. I think that’s the point you’re getting at? If not elaborate on 3.

Got an 86 samurai single click won't turn over on key turn, was able to turn it over via remote trigger 12v direct to the solenoid. So my option is to get a ford starter relay? I do have a clicky starter relay fix, common problem with sammys is this the same thing?

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Wasn’t sure what a clicky starter fix was so I googled it, and found the KZread. Yes, this clicky starter fix is essentially the same fix as installing a ford relay, actually in some ways I like that fix better than mine. When the guy in the video says “over time that just isn’t enough power.” *Is exactly the problem.* Note: this kit does require four wires, one (black) being a ground, the early Ford starter relays (sw3) ground through the metal mounting brackets. So that method has less plumbing. Thanks for your post.

Nice video very impormative

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

Thanks man.

Im having the single click problem on a motorcycle, '82 xs400. My solenoid does nothing when i bridge the poles (no sparks). Should i replace that solenoid ?

@apolouo

3 ай бұрын

I looked it up, this motorcycle doesn’t have a starter, it has a kick start. So the relay you’re referring to doesn’t have anything to do with the information in this video. Sorry man, can’t help you. Your problem in the ignition system, not the cranking system.

Awesome video thank you xMech

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the post.

Instead of installing a second switch, would replacing the wire connecting the ignition to the starter solenoid work?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

First you have to ask yourself how old is your vehicle, The older it is the more likely the resistance is all the way from the battery to the solenoid. On the other hand, if it’s not that old Then the resistance could be at a single connection, usually at the ignition switch, but I have found it a few times the connection at the solenoid was the sole problem on later models. If you want pull your ignition switch out and run a wire temporary From the switch to the solenoid and see if it works. Understand though there is a neutral safety switch in between your ignition switch and the solenoid. So your suggestion is a little more complicated than it sounds.

Hello, I have a tractor that has stopped starting on me. For awhile I would turn the key, let the glow plugs warm, then turn the ignition over to get a single click. I'd then turn it off and turn it over again and get another single click. Usually the third time turning the ignition over it'd start. Now however, I get nothing when I turn it over. It just turns over and nothing clicks or engages. The battery is good and I've even tried to jump the battery off just to verify it wasn't the battery (dash also lights up and lights will turn on). Any thoughts and advice is appreciated. Thanks!

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

Sure I have thoughts… ‘I get nothing when I turn it over. It just turns over and nothing clicks or engages.’ E, turning over, isn’t turning the key, it’s when the engine actually cranks. I’d be glad to help you with you tractor, but first I need you to let me know something. At 2:24 seconds into this video, I show how jumping the solenoid with a different 12 volt source; one other than the original primary, is a test. Well, if you can easily get to your starter, perform this test and let me know if the problem goes away. Glow plugs off and in neutral. Do this test and let me know what happens. xMech

I have a no-click, no-start on a boat using a Mercruiser 3.0. I have no voltage at the ignition switch and also on the relay supply input, but all fuses are good. If I manually apply 12v to relay signal input it clicks so that works and if I apply the same to the relay supply output the starter runs fine, any ideas?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I’m assuming the relay supply (whatever that is) is something that comes before the ignition switch? Yes or No. If it’s before the ignition switch, is its point to supply the ignition switch with power? But if it’s aft (boat lingo) of the ignition switch, and part of the cranking system, it’s not a big surprise you don’t have voltage there, if none at the ignition switch. This shouldn’t be that hard of a problem to figure out, but first I need to be clear on exactly what’s going on. The layout of things I mean.

I am getting ground on the solenoid ignition terminal, even with the ignition wire disconnected from the solenoid. Should I replace the solenoid?

@apolouo

11 күн бұрын

No, that’s how it works. BTY, you’re getting ground at not “on,” that terminal. I find this post a little fishy.

Great video, a correction to consider. At 3:59 you said voltage drop wont cause click just slow crank, but back at 2:12 you said it does cause this.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Negative, no correction needed. At 2:12 I’m referring to the primary wiring, at 3:59 I’m referring to the secondary *cables* Two totally different things. And act differently, too. At 2:12, resistance in the primary doesn’t allow the cranking motor to actually engage. At 3:59 The cranking motor is engaged, but has a restriction in its Power supply, slowing the cranking motor down.

Thanks Good video

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

You’re welcome…

@maxximum18

Жыл бұрын

@@apolouo I have a kia sorento 2016 with a no start issue any ideas on checking the Ground?/power wiring ( or where) before i remove the intake to get to the starter/ thanks in advance

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

I just saw this request. You still having an issue?

Hello thanks for the video I have not tried yet I am trying to make sure I get the right part I get the one click but if I jump the starter then it will start everytime

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Almost any four prong relay that can handle 10 gauge wire on its load side will work. There is also a kit fix for this problem, it called The Suzuki Samurai Clicky starter kit, or something close to that. I’ve seen it from anywhere from 20 bucks to 40 bucks on the Internet. It’s a plastic relay so it takes a fourth (ground) wire, it comes with instructions. The relay I depicted in the video is an early *Ford starter relay,* probably from 65-85 years Fords. Those are grounded through the mounting brackets, so only three wires are needed. I think you can get these early Ford starter relays off Amazon for about 10 bucks. So you’ve got some options. Thanks for the post.

@willsmith8058

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo cool so I my other question is do I jump the starter and the main power in port on the starter so what I'm seeing is battery to one side s port to the little one and power out to starter

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

You used a little different terminology, but yes I think you’ve got. If not this should clear things up. The small (primary) wire from you key (really the neutral safety switch), cut the terminal connector off right at the end where it connects to the solenoid. This is now the circuit that will trigger your new relay (sw3 or whatever). The other two 10 gauge wires, when the key is turned, juice (more current) will flow from the large starter solenoid (secondary) threaded stud to the relay and then back to the small starter solenoid (primary) terminal. Jolting your starter to life. :-) Just follow the schematic you’ll be fine. It might’ve been a 20 amp fuse I used to do this repair with, not a 15, it’s been long time.

My 99 Silverado makes one click and has no power. It’s weird bc it happened out of no where. Went into the corner store and then came to turn on the truck but was one click no power. After I let it sit it struggled to turn on but it turned on. I’m going to check my battery and alternator. Do you think it can be my starter?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I think if you follow the tests this video suggests on the next time the problem occurs, you’ll see your 22 year old truck has the exact problem this video depicts. It’s most likely not your starter. These tests rule a battery problem in or out, which can back door a problem in the charging system in or out, too That’s why I took the time to put the tests in the video.

My 2001mustang gt wouldn’t start and it’s clicking super fast I Gave the starter a pounding and it started after that it did the same would it be a bad starter or relay? Anything would help to get it fixed

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Fast clicking (multiple clicking) usually always comes back to a bad battery, but not necessarily on a Ford. If you’re confident your battery is good do this. *be sure* Troubleshooting starter solenoid (sw3): with one side of a set of *jumper cables* jump the two large terminals of the starter solenoid, if that cranks it everything than the solenoid is bad. Troubleshooting the starter: With the same one side of a set of jumper cables connect one end directly to the starter large terminal (the terminal the cable is connected to) then touch the other end of that jumper cable end to the positive battery post. If it still does the clicking thing it’s probably the starter. If you have a Standard trans make sure it’s in neutral on these jump. Let me know if you don’t understand or you’re still having a problem after you do all these jumps. Thanks for the post.

Same with my old car, it clicks once sometimes, but the lights wont dim, so lately I turn the key and I hold it turned and wiggle the steering wheel and it starts, I'll check the cables with a multimeter.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Personally, with what you’re describing, I’d focus on the ignition switch, or the wire end terminals connecting to it.

Have a 85 dodge d150 just clicks once, when i turn key to on position and hook remote starter switch to s terminal of starter and positive battery cable and press remote switch it fires right up

@apolouo

Ай бұрын

Your remote start is bypassing all the primary wiring so it cranks now, no surprise there. You have the single click issue that’s ruined the day of so many people. But do what the video recommends, you won’t be one of them anymore. Remove the wire at the s terminal on the stater and wire it to a sw3 or an appropriate (relay) as in the video. Screen capture the schematic and follow it. Oh yeah, tell the parts guy you want a starter relay for a 1980 Ford truck. If you want to see what’s causing your issue with your own eyes, do this; just like you did above, do the same thing again, but this time hold a test light or a volt meter at the s terminal when someone else turns the key and note the voltage or brightness of the light when it cranks. Forcing only a click this time, do the same with a meter or a test light, but minus the remote start. When only it clicks, you’ll see a major voltage drop if you use a meter, or the bulb of your test light will barely glow.

Hi there! I noticed, during the clicking, the audio was direct. I never heard you talking at all. Also, when the engine was cranking, and when it stopped, why did you just cut off? I’m just curious. By the way, if you don’t know who this is, this is Garrett.

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Garrett from UPS, how in the world did you know this was me?

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Wow! Hey Garrett it’s good to hear from you. I had heard your penis extension surgery had gone bad, you OK? :-) Garrett, the reason I don’t narrate is simple; what you’re watching is a stitching together of a bunch of different pre-rendered movies, and picture files in After Effects. These videos aren’t done on an exact script, their fluid. So if I wanted to add narration, the simplest way would be after all the screens were finished I would have to read each screen aloud, recording that, and then one by one dub a bunch of individual sound files back into AE, and then should I delete the text or not? Handling the sound as one long sound file could create audio and video alignment problems. Using only text saves time not having to mess with dubbing sound back in. With all the modeling and after effects work I already have two or three days in some of these videos. Your point about cutting off the video abruptly at a critical thought is notable, but the point was made on that clip, so I moved on. Freezing the action to let a point sink in seems simple, but it can add work, too. Anyway, I’ll keep your point in mind. I hope this answered all your questions, and If you’re not the Garrett I’m thinking of, I don’t recall you and sorry about the penis joke.

@garrettfantin8001

4 жыл бұрын

Actually, this is a different Garrett. Anyways, your information helped.

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Garrett now you’ve got me curious, remind me of the past point you made on a post. Or did I help you with a certain problem, or did I help make a problem worse. :- )

@garrettfantin8001

4 жыл бұрын

Hi! The thing I was asking you about, was when everything was recorded directly. Also, I noticed that the cranking was cut off abruptly. When you told me why this happened, you did answer the question. Thank you so much for doing that. I was just curious and why everything was recorded directly. Because, there was no background noise at all. But yes, you did answer my question.

@xMech starting a new thread. 88 F-150 can jump at the starter solenoid and the truck fires right up. When I turn the key you hear the fuel pump prime then one click on the drivers side of the engine compartment (maybe from the distributor). Replaced starter solenoid, no change. Used test light at ignition wire to starter and get nothing when key is turned. Unplugged neutral safety switch, and when key is turned there is power coming to the switch. Replaced switch, still no start (fuel pump primes and one click from distributor area). Where the neutral safety switch is getting power when the key is turned I am assuming the ignition switch is good. Any recommendations on what to check next?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Ok, and this is not criticism, but if your truck cranks when you jump the solenoid, you shouldn’t have replaced the solenoid. Now help me out with something, when you say “Used test light at ignition wire to starter and get nothing when key is turned.” Are you saying one end of the test light was connected to the small terminal on the relay, and the other end was connected to the large post of the starter? The way you worded it, I had to ask. Do this, ground the test light, touch the small terminal on the solenoid and with the other end, see if you get any power while turning the key, sounds like you won’t though. It sounds like you’re getting power to the neutral safety switch, but no word if that wire from the neutral safety switch to the solenoid is open. Which it is possible. Find the pin in the neutral safety switch pigtail that supplies power the solenoid relay, and check continuity between that pin and the end of the small wire ignition wire on the starter solenoid. You’re looking for an open there. It’s also possible all you need to is cut an inch or two off the ignition terminal at the solenoid and install a new terminal. Your logic in troubleshooting, is close to solving this thing on your own.

@bigelowben

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo test light at starter solenoid. Test light grounded, then touching small post that ignition wire connects to started solenoid. No light when key turns. Wire from Ignition terminal and at connection are good. I guess I’ll test the wire to see if there is continuity, was hoping there might be something else (easier to fix) wrong.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, you’ve got power getting to the neutral switch, you gotta see if that continues.

@bigelowben

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo no power coming out of neutral safety switch. The reverse lights come on in Reverse so I think the new switch is installed correctly, do you know if there is some sort of adjustment or bench test for these?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

If it’s a C6 transmission, I think the reverse lights are handled through the NSS, but it’s been a long time worked on one of those. The mounting holes on a NSS on the C6’s are slotted for a little adjustment. fiddle with that. If you want a bench test: be 100% sure you know which pin of the NSS is from the key, ( don’t assume here) then with the NSS off move the moving part of the switch, I think it’s all the way forward for park, but it could be all the way back. Then check the continuity between that pin and The pin supplying the starter relay with power. On your first post you said you had power going to the NSS when the key was turned. I’m assuming you got the correct pigtail pin. But if this particular NSS also handles the back up lights, there’s more than one power flow going to it. That could fool some. But if you nailed the ignition pin correctly, this should just be a small turn adjustment on the neutral safety switch. You can also back feed the starter relay (which is essentially bypassing the NSS). With the key turned to crank and the pigtail disconnected at the NSS use a small jumper wire and jump that pin to the pin going to the starter relay (Sw3). If it cranks, it is almost certainly only an adjustment problem, but it could be a bad new NSS, which I’ve never seen. I Guess there could be one more other possibility, The linkage on the truck is worn out and not allowing the NSS to hit the right spot in park. I think I’ve seen that before. Once for a joke I installed a back up beeper on my cousins 1978 F 150 brake lights, he had an hour of bumper to bumper traffic to get to work. :-) he wasn’t happy.

i bought a S13 Vert that was manual swapped, i ended up finding large amounts of rust on the chassis so i ended up buying a shell and swapping everything over. this includes engine transmission driveshaft differential ecu ETC. Now my issue is that when i try to start the car nothing but a click happens i thought it was a bad starter or battery but it isnt that so im hoping its this. ive jumped the starter numerous times to no avail.

@levis7615

Жыл бұрын

@@apolouo just tried and same issue, 1 click no crank, when i turn the key my dash goes black until i release it

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

Check the voltage at a battery *post* not the terminal when this happens. If it falls below 10.5 volts you have a bad or under charged battery. If it essentially stays at or about the surface change voltage say 12.5 or up during a crank attempt, make sure neither of the battery cable terminals are lose at the battery.

sir I have the same problem though mine will start with 1 click then other time 3 to 4 clicks .... when it's cracking it directly through... not weak but strong . thank u for your video hope you can add some tips.

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

Is it a ford, if not, what kind of vehicle is it?

@defortz297

Жыл бұрын

@@apolouo triton Mitsubishi sir.

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

Sorry I missed this post for a few days. Mitsubishi and Isuzu are similar, and Isuzu is known to have this issue. So much so, there’s an aftermarket kit to fix Isuzus cranking issue. It’s called something like the Isuzu starter fix kit. It comes with instructions too. It’s cheep, I think $20-25. I think there’s a KZread on this kit. search for that video, it will explain a lot.

Could it be a bad ignition switch?

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Negative, the single click noise comes from the starter solenoid, so the juice gets through the ignition switch. But you’re in the ball park though, because you’re in the primary wiring. Most people assume the voltage drop responsible for this is problem in the secondary. If the vehicle is a late model then the voltage drop could all be at the ignition switch, but not the switch itself, it’s usually the terminal connector at back of the switch. The older the wiring is, usually means that the odds are higher that the voltage drop is happening throughout the primary wiring, and not at a single connection point, but this isn’t set in stone. Most vehicles have 12 gauge from the battery through the ignition switch and to the starter solenoid. When they really should have 10 gauge wiring. That would stop a lot of this single click nonsense. Or use 12 gauge and wire a SW3 into the system like most commercial vehicles do, and the video recommends.

This fixed my problem! However, the fuse blows if the AC is on when starting. Any way to fix this? Did I wire something wrong? It's a '93 Ford Escort.

@robertvinokurow1440

4 жыл бұрын

Installed new starter starts up then starter will not stop and burns starter up immediately 93 Ford ranger ANYONE know what to do

@annaobrien6569

4 жыл бұрын

@@robertvinokurow1440 Turned out to be a bad wiring connection shorting it out. Redid all of the connections and it's been working flawlessly. Thanks for responding!

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Bad wire connections are what are called *opens* not shorts, which is exponentially a whole different thing. But you got your car fixed so I guess that’s all that matters.

I have an old J Deer Tractor. Just clicks. Was starting hard for a while. Battery is good. Jumped the solenoid and still just the click. Bad positive cable? Or?

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Here’s what I would do in your case: Watch my video *”Starter clicking programs 101, 102, 103* and at 2:15 into the video, try that jump *with a set of jumper cables.* This jump bypasses the solenoid and checks the motor directly. Actually watch the entire video, your problem is in the wheelhouse of this video. If the starter cranks you have a huge voltage drop in your + cable, charge the cable. If it doesn’t crank your starter is bad. or unlikely but possible, you have a huge voltage drop in the negative cable. It’s probably the starter though. Let me know what happens when you make the jump I mentioned above. Later...

@BlayneSukut

4 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo yep it's the starter thanks for the videos.

@jahdroy9595

3 жыл бұрын

Im sorry i just wanna know, the part you say if a huge voltage drop in the negative cable, than is the starter, (so you mean the starter is bad or its take/consume alot of power?)

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I may have worded something poorly, if you were referring to this *“If the starter cranks you have a huge voltage drop in your + cable, charge it”* I meant change the cable not the starter. I fixed my post. Yes the larger any cable or for that matter any pig tail from an appliance is, the higher the load (current draw) is intended. The point with me suggesting you to jump from the + battery post directly to the starter itself was, this jump kills two birds with one stone. You bypassed the existing + cable, if it had high resistance - in other words, it was the problem, the vehicle would’ve started. Also, and more likely, that jump finds bad starters. If I understood your question this should help. Thanks for the post.

Does the secondary solenoid need to be grounded?

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

If it’s a sw3 type (early ford starter solenoid) as shown, than than no, those solenoids ground through the mounting brackets.

Ok so ive been having this issue with my 08 charger where it would click once and the car would start after about cranking it between 5-10 times. But recently, sometimes it just doesnt make any noise no click what so ever and thats when i know it wont start until like the next day when i give it a try. This used to be my dads car and he said he went and got it checked and they couldnt tell him what it was. I believe that the starter interruptor that the dealer place inside the dash is whats making it do this though , like if they installed it incorrectly. So now that the car is payed off im going to get the starter interruptor removed and see if that is the problem

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

As a mechanic myself I’ve seen other mechanics unable to diagnose the single click issue many times, it’s typical they can’t chase it down. I’m not sure what this interrupter thing you’re talking about is, but you follow your instincts here and have it removed, it may be interrupting *all the current* in the primary, that could explain the no cranking now. If the single click problem returns after the interrupter is uninstalled do the tests I show in this video to troubleshoot it. They’re full proof. If your starter is easily accessible you could also jump the primary terminal on the Solenoid when the Single click problem is happening. And if that jump cranks the starter every time, you’ll have your answer, It’s a voltage drop in all The primary wiring. The problem this video addresses. There’s kind of a cool kit to fix this out there it’s called the Suzuki Samurai starter clicking kit or something like that, it’s like 20-30 bucks, I like this kit for those without a lot of experience, it comes with instructions. I think you’re on the right path, post back if your vehicle acts differently then I suggest here. Thanks for the post.

My 08 Jeep Wrangler is having a issue, i have all power but it won’t start, I heard one or two clicks when I turned my key to start position.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

The difference between *one or two* clicks while attempting a single crank is pivotal. If while turning your key, not releasing it, but holding it in the cranking position, does it ever click more than once? If so the problem this video addresses isn’t your issue. Your problem is a voltage drop in the secondary, either a under charged battery or a lose cable somewhere, or possibly the starter itself, but that’s unlikely. But given the age of your jeep you may have not realizing that more than one click indicates a different problem, you worded your post the way you did. But you really do you have the single click issue this video addresses. To absolutely confirm this, make the jump the video shows at 2:25, if you have a clutch make sure it’s in neutral. If your starter never fails while making this jump your primary side is the one that’s failing, not The secondary. Just follow the fix the video shows. Recently I became aware of a kit to fix this problem, it’s called the Suzuki Samurai Clicky starter fix, or something like that. I like this kit. If you aren’t sure of what I’m saying post back. Thanks for the post.

I will make it short this one I have a Cadillac Deville starter easily cranks when the engine is cold , but “drags” or cranks very slowly when hot thanks for the reply

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Starters that crank normally when cold, but drag when hot are usually always bad. Resistance in the cables would cause slow cranking when cold, too. So it’s not that. I couldn’t tell from your first post if you’ve replaced the starter already, I’m guessing you haven’t.

@kruja1234w

4 жыл бұрын

xMech Yes I did replace the starter yesterday works fine now I did some research on the web and I came across your video I just was curious wanted to know why it was doing that was the problem coming from the starter motor or the starter solenoid

I have a 2006 Pontiac gto, bought a brand new starter and battery still clicks once no start? I can jump the positive post from the battery to the starter and it starts up first try? Would this fix my problem I just ordered the ignition switch to give that a try this will be my next go to!

@2ksgreatestplayz128

3 жыл бұрын

Any help is appreciated I’ve tried everything! I really need it running!

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Think about it this way, if the solenoid clicks, then juices is flowing through the ignition switch, right. Your vehicle is 15 years old, so it’s definitely old enough for resistance to build up in the wiring. But on the other hand it could be resistance at one connection point, like the ignition switch for example. When you’re replacing the switch check all the wiring in the pigtail, make sure there’s no resistance. My moneys on you have the Single click problem I did this video for. It does seem odd to fix this problem you have to add a relay in the solenoid Circuit, but it’s easier than changing all the wires.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I feel your pain, add the relay.

@2ksgreatestplayz128

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much bud! I didn’t think I’d get a reply being the videos so old! If adding this fixes it I’ll literally cashapp you 20$ if you link It swear! Much appreciated for your time to help us all! Can you link me what I need in this video?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

There’s a kit on the market for fixing this problem, I guess early Suzukis are especially susceptible to it. The kits is called the Suzuki samurai click problem fix, or something close to that. It’s $20-30 one the Internet. The Ford starter solenoid (SW3) shown in this video is off an earlier Ford, the reason I modeled this one is because the mounting bracket supplies it with ground. So one less wire to run. The kit I mentioned above requires A grounding wire to be ran, so one more wire to run. But the kit also comes with instructions and everything you need, except for maybe talking about an in-line fuse holder. If you choose to go the Ford starter solenoid route, ask for a 70’s - 90’s one, that should have the metal mounting brackets. Then depending on where you mount it, you’ll need that much 10 gauge wire, and for safety sake, get an inline fuse holder. I think I recall running a 20 amp, but 15 is probably sufficient. Keep your money, it will pay for the kit. Your Cranking problems are almost over.

nice video

@apolouo

Жыл бұрын

Thanks man.

So I have a 97 ranger. Clicks once then nothing. New solenoid battery and starter. If I leave the key on and touch the two terminals on the solenoid it pops right off is this a connection issue?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Firstly, I need you to better explain which terminals on the solenoid you’re touching. The two with the two *cables* or the hot battery cable and the small wire coming from the neutral safety switch. The reason I’m asking, it’s probably irrelevant that the key is on, and when you say “key on”, do you mean in the run or crank position. This won’t be a hard problem to figure out, but first I need to understand exactly how you’re jumping the solenoid.

@EdKenMitch360

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo sorry about that. So i touch the two large terminals on the starter relay one that goes to the starter and one that is hot from the battery. The vehicle only cranks when I do this unless the key is in the run position, when the key is in the run position it pops right off every time. However I just checked. When I try to start the vehicle normal with the key the power gets cut off to all accessories

What if it’s sometimes doing the one click, but some times doing a bunch of clicks? Sometimes it will click a whole bunch and then it will fade into no noises. And then if I let it sit for a little while and then try again, I will again get a bunch of clicks and then it will made to no clicks again. Thank you in advance again.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Multiple clicking almost always comes back to an under charged or bad battery. Which might make sense with what you’re describing, The battery sits for a little while and builds up the surface charge again. When you get the multiple clicking check the battery voltage *at the posts, not the terminals* if it’s below 10.5 volts, The battery or charging system is the issue. If it’s above 10.5 with multiple clicking, it’s rare but it could be a loose connection at a battery cable. If it’s a Ford tell me so.

What about a 'no click' situation with a new battery, starter and solenoid?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

If you’re not getting any click, I’d check my neutral safety switch, especially if you have no power when you turn the key at The primary wire of the solenoid. It could be the ignition switch too, but that’s less likely.

I wanna buy a camaro its 2000-2002 but the seller told me that the car wont start and no cranck and then he pass cables to it with another car and it takes long to start but it start then he needs to wait tree days to turn it on again im in love with that camaro but im not sure if a should buy it 😭😭

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

The problem you’re describing is different than the issue this video addresses. If by “pass cable” you mean the owner switched cables with another car and that Didn’t seem to make a difference, than it could be a battery issue, or or an intermittent starter problem, it’s hard to tell from this post. You don’t have possession of the car so I can’t tell you the tests to perform to check all this. My advice is don’t buy vehicles on helium, be confident it’s fixed or what it would cost to fix before you buy it. You could tell the seller to post on my site and I can walk him through some test, that’s a bit odd, but I don’t mind doing it, he probably wants to sell it. Thanks for the post.

Best video

@apolouo

Ай бұрын

Glad you found it helpful.

Black Connector on battery ? I’ve heard that can cause the same issue

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Sort of, any poor *cable* connection can mimic the single click problem, but that problem makes a harder (louder) click, it’s noticeably different to me. That’s the main reason I suggest doing the extra loads tests. If what you’re suggesting happens, the entire Electric system takes a dive. That doesn’t happen if the problem is in the primary wiring. Hope this helps.

What if the secondary power source you try to apply 12v with gets the click too?

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

The way you phrased your question is a little confusing to me. In this video when I talked about applying a different source, this is essentially applying another *primary source not a secondary source* to the solenoid. It simply simulates bypassing all your existing primary wiring, but at the same time also test your secondary, too. That’s why I have to clarify what you’re saying. You’re still getting the single click when jumping the solenoid, is that what you’re saying, or is this just a rhetorical question?

@punkmaster98

4 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo that is the issue im having but looking into it further . If you rotate the engine by hand to a different spot it will crank . But sometimes not

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

You could have a ring gear / fly wheel problem. Or a starter alignment problem, on some early models the starter could be shimmed. What kind of vehicle is it? But all the above would make a little different sound than the “distinct” sound of the primary wiring problem this video addresses. First how confident are you that rotating the engine by hand actually gets it to crank sometimes. Are you sure it’s just not a coincidence? There’s some really bad advice going out on KZread. What I would do if I were you is watch my video *”starter clicking problems 101,102, and 103”* and go to 1:50 into the video and see if this helps. Actually watch the whole video there’s good stuff in there. Although remote, In my experience you probably have the uncommon bad solenoid, but that may not necessarily be true. You could have a loose cable mimicking the primary problem, this sometimes is the problem, but because deciphering this issue with the untrained ear often gets people confused. Do all the tests in the video above, and get back to me with what you find out. If you have a clutch make sure it’s in neutral.

@punkmaster98

4 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo ok ill take a look . Its an gen 3 chevy ls engine . When trying to start the car with two.different primary sources (power from the car and a power probe from a separate battery) it would not crank just click . If I rotate the engine it starts . Grounds have been checked and cleaned. Terminals as well. This is the 3rd starter I've tried and same issue which is directing me to the flexplate as you've said.

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

I don’t know what a gen 3 is, but I do know what a Chevy is... Rotating the crankshaft by hand, and that making a difference in the cranking system is atypical (not typical,) but if rotating the crankshaft does definitely affect the cranking system, then it’s a mechanical issue not an electrical issue. Pay close attention to the teeth on the starter and the ring gear when you pull the starter. Typically a four cylinder stops at two spots on the ring gear, a six cylinder stops at three spots on the ring gear, and on a V8 it stops at four stops on the ring gear. With the starter out rotate it completely around checking it.

I have a 1996 ford ranger 4 cylinder 5 speed and its been sitting for about 6 years but kept in garage, I replace the spark plugs, put a new starter on it drained the old gas and put new gas in it and when I go to crank it I only get one click after I turn the key. I did notice the click was coming from the solenoid on the fender by battery and fusebox so what could make it not start? That or the starter relay? Or the ignition relay? I just have no idea why it won't start at this point and it has a new battery on it! Im by all means no mechanic lol

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Usually there’s two things on Fords that will cause a single click, firstly, a bad starter solenoid, this includes that solenoid being good, but having a bad ground. Secondly, bad connections at any battery/starter *cable* To troubleshoot a finder mount solenoid ground: first determine how it gets its ground. It either gets ground through the mounting bracket or it has more than one small wire going to the solenoid. *Make sure it’s grounded.* you can check for a good ground with an automotive test light. Clip it to the positive post of the battery and touch the mounting bracket with it (not in a plastic part) if the light goes on it’s grounded. To test the solenoid itself: with the *truck in neutral* use one cable (black or red it doesn’t matter) of a set of jumper cables and with it jump the two large posts on the solenoid. By doing this you are essentially bypassing the solenoid. If your starter cranks every time you make this jump, then the solenoid is bad. Personally I’ve found more bad grounds at Ford solenoids then bad solenoids themselves. If your starter solenoid is good, meaning you still get the click sound when you jump it with the set of jumper cables, then you probably have a voltage drop at one battery cables ends. Post back if you don’t understand or you can’t figure it out, I’ll slow it down a bit and will go into more detail.

@suitcase5932

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo i greatly appreciate it, it will be Saturday before I can get back to the truck as I work all week, it was my dads truck and pretty much all I have left of him so it means alot to me. Im just praying the motor isn't locked up from sitting so long. It was Recently given to me or I wouldn't have let it sit. I will get back with you Saturday! Oh and to jump as in put jumpers on car batter and and also putting it on my trucks solenoid bolts?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

No, The point is you want to bypass the solenoid, so with one side of a set of jumper cables, jump the two large terminals/posts on the solenoid. It’s like a 2 or 3 inch jump. Both ends of the side of the jumper cables you choose (Red or black) Will connect the two large terminals of the solenoid together. Look at it this way; you’re just bypassing (as in jumping over) a switch. Albeit using jumper cables. Make sure it’s in your neutral, because if you have a bad solenoid The starter will move the truck. The reason jumper cables are needed is, you need something that can carry all that current The starter demands. If you used A piddly 10 or 12 gauge wire to do this, and your starter actually tried to kick, it would burn that wire up in a matter of a second or two. Just ask anybody who burnt up their Remote start by hooking it up wrong on a Ford. Hey! why is my remote smoking 🔥? :-) A locked up engine makes more of a thud sound, than a click sound when the starter kicks. Your starter probably isn’t kicking.

@suitcase5932

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo update, it was indeed the starter solenoid on the fender.. I actually just used a screwdriver and bridged it and it tried to turn over so I just went to autozone and got a new one.. put it on and now it wants to crank but sadly more bad news it still want start as I think the fuel pump isn't working as I couldn't hear it turn on as I turned the key over, also the lines might be clogged and not getting any fuel. Tomorrow I plan to take the line off to the filter to see if it drain gas to see if its clogged, also was told to put sea foam in it to help unclog it which ive never heard of seafoam tbh lol but just wanted to give an update.

thank you for video

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped.

2012 mustang gt doesn’t crank but has a click near the starter area …….. keep trying or maybe wait a hour or so it cranks ….. I may drive it for a long period of time shut it off doesn’t crank again, I changed out the relay and neutral safety switch and battery .

@apolouo

8 ай бұрын

In this scenario, I’d start first with testing the terminal at your relay (the sw3), with a test light or multimeter. You want to determine if voltage is getting there while you’re having the no crank issue. Never just assume that it is. When you’re having the problem: 1) If there’s no voltage getting there at an attempt at cranking, then the problem is back in your primary, could even be the ignition switch. But don’t miss a faulty connection in the terminal right there at the sw 3. 2) If voltage is getting there at starter every time you attempt to crank it, and the noise is coming from the starter, then it’s probably bad. But many been fooled hearing a click and assuming it’s coming from the starter. Other components make noise during cranking you never hear because the starter engaging drowned them out. Don’t make the novice mistake of not checking if primary voltage is actually getting to the relay terminal. It’s the first step in troubleshooting this issue.

How do I jump the big cable to the little wire

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

At 2:27 into the video, where i talk about the jump - the big cable to the little wire, notice the red little bar I animate on and off at the *the large cable to the little wire.* You can use a remote start, screwdriver, or a short or long piece of 12/10 ga. wire to make the jump. This issue (the single click thing) happens on a variety type of starters, but most these connections reasonably look like what I modeled and are assessable. So like what I show @ 2:27 mimic that. If you have a clutch make sure it’s in neutral. Post back if you have any problems.

I'm currently having this issue. Intermittent no click no crank no start with an 08 Saturn aura. But it only happens when the engine or something else gets too hot. Could this be my issue?

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Typically, there’s a single click associated with this problem, but that doesn’t eliminated this being your issue. A good test would be, if you can easily get to the starter; with a test light see if you’re getting voltage at the small wire on the solenoid at starter demand (cranking time). If that’s the case, you’re getting juice there, but *nothings* happening, that probably indicates you have so much resistance in your primary wiring, it can’t budge the solenoid at all. Humid environment? To absolutely clinch this being your problem, then jump the big cable on the solenoid to the little wire you just tested. If that jolts your starter to life, this video addresses your issue. Someone put a kit to to fix this problem on Subarus. if you’re interested, read back in some of these posts and you’ll find the name for it. Post back if you’re not getting any voltage at the solenoid, or after following through with these test you’re still stuck. And it’s also possible the solenoid has an intermittent open. Using stuck here is a pun, this problem sucks.

@jsn21

2 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo Thx. I'll check that out as soon as I get a chance

@jsn21

2 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo Ok tested the wires seems everything there is normal. Is it possible that there's too much power going to starter and causing too low power to relays.. when I try to crank it hot all power to everything seems to be lost. Until I return key to on position.

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Ok, here’s what I need to know.: 1). What’s the surface charge *at the battery posts* cold engine. And hot engine too, when the problem is happening. The surface change is the battery voltage with the engine isn’t running. 2). What’s the voltage *at the battery posts* when the problem is happening. When as you say - all the power seems to go away. This is an important one; with the power dumps, I’m assuming that’s only during start demand, what’s the voltage at the battery posts (not terminals) then?

@jsn21

2 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo I tested this earlier was at 12.7 after turning key to start position it dropped to 12.19 (No start) battery cold is 12.3 to 12.4 v

Why wouldn't you just replace the bad ignition wire?

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

Well, the primary wiring is essentially a bunch of wires between components; starting at the battery, maybe goes through the fuse box - the fire wall - the ignition switch - the neutral safety switch, then to the solenoid. Where do you start? Do you change them all? Or just certain ones? Also, it’s been my experience actually going inside *rapped* looms to replace a specific wire is a whole different thing than just talking about it. But here’s a recipe, if the resistance causing the problem just happens to be in one section of the primary wiring, how you determine that. 1) Do a voltage drop test from the battery positive terminal of the battery, to the solenoid small wire at starter demand (cranking.) Say you get 4 volts. 2) Then, which isn’t nearly as easy as it sounds, do a voltage drop test between all the different components of the primary circuit. If one particular voltage drop sticks out, say you get 3.0 - 3.5 volts, start by replacing that wire. Good luck, and thanks for the question.

Thank you

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

You’re welcome.

Ive got the same problem, everything works, battery voltage is good, once I turn the key it clicks and won’t start, I have to put it in neutral for it to start, and sometimes that won’t even work either, should I take it to the mechs?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

If your vehicle is under 12 years, they may stand a chance to find a problem at a single connection. But if it’s older they’ll get it wrong. I was in the trade and seen this problem misdiagnosed many time. I know it sounds crazy, but it’s what will happen. You’d get better results finding a friend who can wire from the schematic and stick a relay in the Circuit like this video suggests. The next time you have the click problem follow the tests in this video, their there for a reason. If your vehicle flunks the second test, then you have this problem. If this is the case mechanics will Chase their tail’s trying to figure it out, or try to sell you a starter. Either way they’ll probably won’t stop you from having to push your car to start it.

Now I'm royally confused. I finally tried starting with my headlights on. Click and the lights went dim. New battery, new 2/0 battery cables, double grounds and clean tight connections......6 volt system 1954 Pontiac.

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

You either have a voltage drop somewhere in the secondary, or a bad starter.

Please help me.. When I try to start my car I heard single click and I try to repeat 4 times and it start

@apolouo

4 жыл бұрын

If your vehicle isn’t a ford, and your vehicle always has just a (single) clicks, then your issue is the one indicated in this video, just do what the video says and your problems will go away.

@nathalialavelle1603

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks man!! You are so kind 😁

@rstelzer2928

4 жыл бұрын

@@nathalialavelle1603 I think this is a pseudo post by the video maker trying to up his own ego. Its typical for bullshitters like this!

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

LOL, today I just saw this post. Yup you busted me. I fake posts. Talk about shallow thinking. Nice ears dude.

@nathalialavelle1603

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo I'm here

Do you think this is a starter relay issue or a wire resistance issue? kzread.info/dash/bejne/pYehj6qMlcishqg.html As you mentioned before, shorting the starter works perfectly everytime.

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

If you’re asking, if I think the humming noise is starter related, no I don’t. I didn’t hear a click. It’s probably another system that typically you don’t notice because your vehicle actually starts. I guess it’s possible you have so much resistance in your primary wiring your solenoid won’t even do the single click noise, not likely though. Test with a test light at the small wire on the solenoid, at crank time if you don’t have any power getting to it, it could be a neutral safety switch issue. But If you get a dim glow on the test light at crank time there, than it’s definitely a resistance issue, install the relay. BTW, your not *shorting* the starter, you’re jumping it. Shorts cause blown fuses, smoke, and sometimes fire.

When I turn my key to try and start the engine, it will click and shut off my electronics and it'll stay off for a few minutes with no reaction if I try to turn the key fully again. Everything will stay off until a few minutes pass and I'll try again and then it'll click once and stay unresponsive again. If anyone can please help me. Thank you

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I’m curious what make and year model of vehicle is this? If you’re losing power to everything on starter demand, it sounds to me like a bad or under charged battery. It also could be a voltage drop at a loose cable failing when the load of the starter hits it. If you have a volt meter check the voltage at the *battery posts* when the problem happens. If the voltage is below 10.5 volts then the battery is bad or unchanged. If voltage is above 12.3-12.5 at the *battery posts* during a cranking attempt, but you still have the click problem, then do a voltage drop tests at all the cable ends. Post back if you don’t understand. Thanks for the post.

@enikyne

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo Thank you for replying so quickly! I forgot to add, I just bought a new battery last week, and cleaned the terminal connectors but I'll try to see if there's a voltage drop like you said. I'll reply tomorrow after trying it out. Thank you again!

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Now that l have more details, I expect your battery post voltage on starter demand won’t fall much below the surface charge voltage. If that’s the case do this next, at 2:25 into this video do that jump it shows, if it cranks every time then, your problem isn’t the starter, it’s another component or something tricking you into thinking it’s the starter, later model cars can do that.

@enikyne

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo Sorry it took a while to reply. I replaced my composition head lead connector because I was getting low volt reading from red connector to negative post. Thank you so much for your help! God bless!

New battery, new NAPA starter, cleaned battery terminals and wires, good headlights, 06 f150, and still one click BS smh

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Bypass your Sw3 (starter relay) and see if that kicks the starter. You probably have a bad Ford starter relay or a poorly grounded one. Post back if you have no idea what I’m talking about.

@bigelowben

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo 88 f150, jumped the old starter relay using a screwdriver and it fired right up. Bought a new motor craft relay and same thing is happening. I can jump the relay with a screwdriver across the two big terminals or the positive to the ignition switch. Ive checked the ground where it is bolted to the fender wall (even ran a wire from there to a known ground elsewhere) no change. Is there another ground I can check or did I just get a bad solenoid? Is there anyway to test the solenoid?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

I think I know what your problem is, but first I need to know *exactly* what you mean when you say “...positive to the ignition switch.” What are you saying is positive here? Are you saying, if you use the positive cable (the battery side of the relay) and jump that to the small terminal on the relay *coming from the ignition switch?* It will crank then? So far you’re pretty intuitive, so if I guessed wrong here, be specific.

@bigelowben

3 жыл бұрын

@@apolouo yes, from battery side of solenoid to the small terminal coming from the ignition. Update, I’m not getting any power at the ignition terminal (test light when turning the key) so I’m thinking ignition switch?

@apolouo

3 жыл бұрын

Are you actively working on the truck as we speak?

Wow that hat video sucked he didn’t tell me nothing

@apolouo

2 жыл бұрын

“he didn’t tell me nothing,” actually, the way you worded it, indicates I told you everything on the subject. Which pretty much nails it. Thanks for the post.