In an email I was told the price on Amazon would be $599. I just checked, and Anycubic has it listed on Amazon for $739. I really hope this is an accident and I wasn't given incorrect information.

@user-eu2pb9rr4l

2 жыл бұрын

Havent seen this model before, could you link the stls in the description?

@Darlypants

2 жыл бұрын

On Anycubic's own website it is $639 so, yes, it looks like it's $100 more than you were told.

@Bigdog1787

2 жыл бұрын

I don't know how they be able to sell it at any of those prices should be $1200 I think.🤭

@3DPrintingNerd

2 жыл бұрын

@@user-eu2pb9rr4l STLs linked in the description now.

@twoheadedpanthr

2 жыл бұрын

It's up to $639 on their site. Edit* That was for DE. US is $569

Thank you, Joel, for printing my engine! Amazing video, amazing size! Thank you!

@3DPrintingNerd

2 жыл бұрын

I AM SO HAPPY YOU SAW IT!!!

@MrZhAlex

2 жыл бұрын

All your engines are cool. Thanks!

@taylorpeterson7015

2 жыл бұрын

that’s what she said

Very interesting setup for the Y. I dont mind how they did that oddly, figured I would. Distributing the load over 2 rails with lots of wheels is nice, but may lead to issues with those bearings with HEAVY prints. Any luck oiling the bearings? It sounded to me that it might have been in the extruder!

I have a anycubic Chiron with the same bed and you have to let the bed cool. Even under the print. People will touch the bed and think it's cool but under the print not so much. I come back a couple hours after the print finishes and even large prints will pop off with little effort. You can also reduce your bottom layer flow rate a bit. Will help if your prints are sticking to much on any printer.

I flipped the plate over to the glass and had no problems with removing my prints once it cooled down. Also, I replaced the plastic bearing wheels with metal ones and no squeaking. Still going strong with no other issues . . . for now! 🍻 💪🏾

@phooniotv

Ай бұрын

hey man just wondering, can you give an update if u still use it and if theres a yes or a no then tell me why? im thinking about getting one myself.. or is it outdated?

Thanks for a detailed review/overview. I really appreciate the delivery and will consider this for my next printer

Thanks great video I have coming in two weeks. A question? When doing your first leveling did you lower your bed completely down before auto leveling?

It is like an upgraded Chiron: all the new features and most of the upgrades. Things I did not see in the review: is there a filament run out sensor? Does the filament sensor detect stopped/jammed filament? Is the bed heating evenly? Does it resume properly after a power fail? Does the firmware allow notifications back to Octoprint when the filament runs out? Does the bed have amosfet so I can keep it powered after power loss?

First of all, great video, love the humor lol. Question I have is this printer big enough to handle 1/32 scale models of sections for assembling buildings, I tried finding info on what size of 3D printer needed for 1/32 scale with no luck, will this one work or one of the cheaper costing Kobra's, thanks for any help...

Hey! Nice Job! Have you fixed the sticky base problem? what brown butcher paper, or a light coat of vegitabe oil? Just got a AnyCubic Photon Mono X, so much to learn! Thanks again!

About the glass bed adhesion... did you try lowering the recommended bed temperature for the material? I have found with other bed surfaces that the amount of bed adhesion could be controlled by raising or lowering bed temp.

Just a tip I've learned that I want to share to everyone watching. When removing tpu from glass, do it while the glass is still hot. It's a lot easier to peel off that way. Otherwise once it cools down it holds to glass like glue! I like to catch it right at the end of the print and peel it off. I've tried reheating the glass after it has cooled down and that didn't seem to help much either. Happy printing.

@joblessalex

2 жыл бұрын

Tpu you just roll the model up. Super ez.

@amicloud_yt

2 жыл бұрын

Whenever I print TPU I do the same AND squirt a little bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol. It comes off so easily with just a tiny bit of alcohol

@frogmandave1

2 жыл бұрын

This applies to all printing surfaces.

@AndreasHammerschmidt

2 жыл бұрын

TPU should be printet without a heated bed. I reactivated my Flashforge Finder which has no heated bed and it prints perfectly (and it's my only direct extruder ;))

@IbisFernandez

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah I found that just reheating the bed helps to release the print when you're ready to take it off the bed.

Hi ... i was wondering if you had any cura/prusa slicer profiles that are better than the stock one they give with the machine? i am having issues with Z moving and dragging on the print without moving up first. also, there is no nozzle prime like the prusa slicer does in cura. so if you are willing to share a profile, it would be great. thx for all the videos and information you provide to us. we really appreciate it.

I feel always so excited when there is new 3D printer with a large print volume in the market. I need an after some months review for Kobra Max. Is there some problem or needed repairment in this following months? Thanks for this video and your review Covering the plate with scotch could be an option for models not to stick on? I saw in some other videos but I wanted to ask you. Thanks

im curious if those squeaky roller wheel bearings offer an advantage over the rods like in Prusa MK3S+

Heya, I was wondering if you could do a bit more in depth video on how the "nozzle touch bed leveling" and if it could be implemented on say a anycubic Mega style printer?

I have a question as im fairly new to this. I own the cr-10s and i use cura which had a printer profile listed, but since the max is so new it doesnt have one. Can i just use the vyper profile and change the bed dimensions?

I'm debating buying one of these, any advice on where to get a flexible build plate upgrade?

Joel, I love that Endor-gonia tshirt! Any chance you’d share where you got it or where we can pick one up?

Is there not an opton to adjust the z axis offset. Its auto oeveling, and so if its adhering too much it might just need backing off 0.01mm or so to make it easier to remove.

Your cuts and videos are stupendous! My smile was a permanent fixture from beginning to end. To me, failures due to a print bed, are a NON-ISSUE. "Im not buying this house... because I dont like the bedroom paint color."

@davidtobin

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. We will let Tucker know. He cut this one!

i would wonder if the nozzle doing the adjusting by touching the plate, would hurt something like garolite or some other meltable thing. I never tried to melt garolite, but i'm pretty sure it bends.

Hi Joel. I was wondering what slicer you are using for the Anycubic Kobra Max.

Hello Joel! I saw your review about the Kobra Max. So, after 2 month and i think, many print. What do you think ? Is this printer still a good choice for printing large parts?

How would you go about getting a flexible bed instead of a glass bed?

Would this or the Sidewinder X2 be the better choice for out of the box?

I just stumbled upon this looking for Cura settings and you hit the nail on the head. I'm still playing with Cura just to see what works best, but out of the gate this thing was printing SO much better than my CR10 ever did.

@3DPrintingNerd

Жыл бұрын

My Cura settings were Vyper, but with correct bed dimensions. CRAZY how good it prints straight away right?

@greenrocksmysocks

Жыл бұрын

I keep searching for the best kobra max settings, my prints just string CONSTANTLY and after playing with temp, retraction and speed for days I just can't get the finish right. Where do you find these settings? :(

i would like the machine to have a sheet of build tack on it. my original m3 mega came with it before they went to the ultra base. i love it. easy to remove items. but nice to see what it can do. the prints look awesome.

I got the at squeak on a few of my printers as well, it was actually the cooling fan rubbing on the cowl of the print head, the blades where too loose on the fan and they wobbled enough to make that noise, also, in the case of my CR6 SE to rub a groove in the cowling housing. A fan swap fixed the issue, but it is a bummer that it happens form the factory like that.

Can one change the extruder orientation on this printer, so the filament can be fed from a shelve above or in the back ? I find placing the filament on the side very inconvenient.

Joel, I enjoyed your review as always. I've been using flexible build plates on all my machines for a couple of years now, and I'll never go back to using tape or glue or whatever. Really can't see why you would ever want to mess with any of those methods when the flex plates are so easy to install (if the machine doesn't come with one) and so convenient to use.

@wyannick888

2 жыл бұрын

Which one do you use?

@McBearyOne

2 жыл бұрын

But did you find one which is 400x400? I can‘t finde one that size.

@250tegra

2 жыл бұрын

@@McBearyOne - it's a year or two ago now, but we bought a small sheet of stainless steel on eBay, then trimmed it to fit our i3 - it even has an insulated handle! I'd certainly give that a try, it was not costly.

Would you recommend this as a upgrade or a newer version for the ANYCUBIC chiron ?

I'm looking to get into 3d printing for the first time, so I don't know anything about this subject. But I'm a good cook and often use parchment paper to cook things on. (Life hack - No washing dishes). That's rated to about 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Would it be possible to use a sheet of parchment paper to save your base?

Great review. I just got mine today. Putting it together now.

Any time I get one of the beds with the silicon-carbide surface, I flip it over and print on the naked glass. While carborundum does a great job of holding onto models with a small footprint, the risk to my nozzle, combined with the weird behaviour on some filaments (black silk - might as well have been welded to the bed), makes it not worth it on anything but finicky prints in basic PLA. Another great video, Joel! Thanks for posting!

How dose it compare with the cr-10 max , what would be a better buy?

Great video, Joel!! It was good seeing you in Jerry's live show today. You should have joined in with us on the stream! 😊 👍

G'day Joel. Great video mate. Kudos for providing such constructive feedback and an honest review. Loved the big model aeroplane motor you built. Shame it didn't run, as I would've loved to see it go. Cheers from downunder. Aaron.

Do you have Cura settings? What did you use to slice?

Very interested in this Were the magnets reversed on the tool drawer? IE - auto-eject mode?

@petercallison5765

2 жыл бұрын

That is a creality thing.

Joel, I have not been able to get one good print. I have layers shift all over and poor quality layers. what slicer do you used?

Great video, I cant stop replaying this review, can it print Polycarbonate?

How much space do I need for this model to fit on my work table? I have a max of 36 inches depth (91.5 cm). Would this be enough? The Kobra Max already has 72cm depth.

hey Joel should i get the Anycubic cobra max or prusa i3 mk3s+ ?

how can you really mitigate the rigid bed issue? do you have exactly which flex-bed sheet can i use there?

I have had the Chiron for years and have been satisfied with it. I have had things stick to the bed too hard, but I always use washable water gluestick now, and things come off quickly. It is built cheaply, though, and I have had to replace many parts. Luckily any cubic always sent them to me for free based on warranty. I did add a direct drive to mine instead of Bowden now, I had issues with the filament extruder just chewing up filament before, and I use it with a palette as well. The majority of the time, everything prints well for me. I upgraded all the parts and printed high-temp with it. When it is time for an upgrade, I will go with the max. as far as price is concerned, I don't see too many other printers that are competitive with it based on size and capabilities.

I've been looking at geting this one or the Chiron. Is there a chance that you will do a review comparing the Anycubic Chiron and the Kobra Max? And what is a good material to use for them?

@ryangamble5131

2 жыл бұрын

Get this one. I see a lot of people having problems with the wiring harnesses on the Chiron. Upgrade to a textured pei sheet.

Joel, can you share your printer profile for cura? The printer does not have one and I seem to continue to have some struggles getting it all dialed in

G-10 works great for me on my sovol SV03 as a build plate! As long as the z-offset is about right, it grips everything!

Have you considered G10/FR4 for the build surface? I switched from Creality's glass bed to the 1/16" G10/FR4 and it's amazing, the prints stick great during printing and slide right off when it cools and it's flexible so you can flex it to pop prints off as well and you don't need to heat bed with TPU.

@ataweiam7

2 жыл бұрын

Do you just buy a sheet and cut it to size?

I think they should’ve used a mesh build plate like the i3 mega X It holds on really well and when it cools down the Print just pops off

Would you choose this over the ender 5 plus?

I still like my Prusa mini

I know this is a long shot but can you show us what are the best printing settings for the kobra and the vyper ? I recently bought both and I'm having trouble with my prints

@3DPrintingNerd

2 жыл бұрын

I’m using Cura defaults for both and they just work well. Are there specific settings you are looking for?

Awsome video! My Ender 3 recently failed and I'm looking for a new printer. Since I'm now certain I want to really get into the hobby, I'm willing to spend more money. Currently, I'm not sure wether to get the Kobra or Kobra Max. I've indeed wished for a bigger printing volume on my Ender 3, since I sometines print stuff like seld designed rovers and cars I then automate. I'm still not excatly sure, wether it's worth the bunch of extra money (I'm still in school so money is a little tight), especially without a flexible build plate. What would you advise?

@FathomSoundProAudio

Жыл бұрын

Maybe you should just get the Ender Extender 400 or 500mm

Good video. You are straight forward and 2 the point without the ridiculous intro that everyone seems to have. Don't change.

My Atom 2.0 delta 3D printed did the same auto bed leveling. But all my prints were not able to stick on the edges. They would always lift slightly.

What brand is that dark blue Filament?

Hi Joel, can you post a link for the Knight? Thanks!

Thank God I ordered the extra satin build plate. I had a feeling it was available for a reason. My first printer was the Photon D2. I loved it so much 3 days later I ordered the Kobra Max bundle with a extra build plate I paid like $650 for the bundle with extra filament and build plate

I have a anycubic chiron and it's an awesome machine for the most part I have used it a lot more than my ender 3. All the issues you're facing with the kobra I've had with the chiron which is disappointing given there is a few years between them you'd think they would have figured that out already. Blue masking tape has been my go to for my prints on the glass to help it release. I wish they released the nozzle bed levelling for aftermarket.

@ChakaHamilton

2 жыл бұрын

I have the Chiron as well, and after watching "This Korba Max looks suspiciously like an upgraded Chiron." 🤔

I was having the bed adhesion issue on the mega s with tpu, what works for me is blue painters tape. Yes it’s a pain but it definitely helps

Will you be reviewing the anycubic Kobra with direct drive ?

I've fell in love with using hair spray as my water soluble interface adhesion layer.

is there a way I can ask lots of questions? my printing is going awful. It was working so well, and now I think it seems clogged etc and not adhering went through and did all the manual said

Hello @3DPrintingNerd, I just got the kobra max as a first 3d printer for my birthday and wanted to know what a print interface is. Thanks!

Great video. I just ordered the Kobra Max because I was dissatisfied with the Shark V3 that I was using. My issue was bed adhesion. Nothing I tried would allow things to stay locked in position. I was losing 20 prints for every one that was marginally successful. Now, I'm afraid that I will have the opposite problem with adhesion. What do you recommend for an interface that will allow the prints to release easier...other than resorting to a flexible plate....not that I would even know where to get one. Any input would be stellar.

@3DPrintingNerd

Жыл бұрын

Look into getting a magnetic flex plate for the machine!

I'm inclined to get one of these. In your expert opinion what is the best 3d printer i can get right now for under $1000. I'm looking for something "functional" , i don't want 3d printing as a hobby, i don't want to print thing that i can get at a 99 cent store, I'm looking for real functionality without having to spend hours tinkering with the printer, fixing and upgrading. I just want the brunt of my work to be kept in the design and development of the products that i need and not to focus on the printer itself. (Also ideally I would like to be able to print in large format but its not a deal breaker. some of the items i need to design are about 17" long)

What scraper is that in the video?

do you happen to have noice settings for petg?

I ALWAYS use hairspray on my glass beds, not for adhesion, but as a release agent. I started doing that right after I tore a chunk of glass out of my glass bed when printing with PETG.

3:50 is it just me or does the nozzle look slightly crooked?

Just ordered one for myself! Does anyone know what dark blue filament is being used? I see all the link in the description but wasn't sure which specific type it was.

is it the same rubbish firmware from the vyper that does not let you go into folders ? I have had more trouble with my Vyper that any of the 10 printers I have owned including one I have designed and made myself. Many times I thought it was working and it lets me down, even with the CE firmware it still does stupid things.

When printing TPU on smooth beds I always use glue stick. On textured surface (like on Prusas) TPU peels off easily and no glue is needed.

I wonder, have you tried printing with ABS on this unit?

Would you say its worth buying the extra parts for it such as the Heated Bed For Anycubic Kobra Max, Glass Plate for Anycubic Kobra Max, Bearing Pulley for Chiron/Vyper/Kobra series 5Pcs, Extruder for Anycubic Kobra Max/Plus, Hotend for Anycubic Kobra Max, Motherboard For Anycubic Kobra Max?

Where’s fan mail Friday !! Lol great review as always good sir

OK, silent drivers, but squeaky bearings? Do they just need some oil / lube applied?

On the fence between this and the Mingda Magician Pro. Which has almost identical specs but direct drive. Would you recommend one over the other?

@petercallison5765

2 жыл бұрын

Very good question, I will be looking at that one myself.

What would you say is better CREALITY Ender 5 Plus or Anycubic KOBRA MAX?

I could use settings for this machine - Cura or Prusa. I did successfully print with a modified Viper profile, but it didn't control the heat as expected, and if you could point me to a good profile (I can't find one online), that would by great!

The other oddity with the name is the non-max Kobra is a direct drive (and has the flex plate) which makes the Max even more like a Vyper.

@reviewchan9806

2 жыл бұрын

You would think printers would get better in the future, but it seems like anycubic is just hashing out the same thing

@petercallison5765

2 жыл бұрын

The Kobra is Anycubics answer to the Ender 3 S1 Sprite.

Getting some insane bed adhesion with pla/+, i reckon maybe z offset? The auto bed leveling seems to do really good, it might just be a couple points of a millimeter too close. I’ve tried dropping the bed temp down to 50 which arguably was worse because the owl snapped in half and i sent her perch flying through the stratosphere with her feet attached (after hours of cooling). Although, that was with pla+, i don’t see how that would be much of a difference but worthy of including i guess. Any other ideas? The printer is sick though, i giggled like a child when i tried the auto filament loading and unloading. Its the little things 😅 i really can’t give much of a review with only 2 owls printed (part of one currently in orbit), but just going off quality and ease of use out of the box, its been a dream. If z offset is my only real concern with bed leveling, I’ll take that over a piece of paper and knobs any day because i SUCKED at bed leveling manually. My one gripe was the sd card that came with it, i thought like in the video maybe i had it in the wrong spot or something. Negative, the sd card wouldn’t read in the printer at all, but reads on the computer? I ended up grabbing the one from my ender 3 and it loaded right up. I tried different formats and reformatting, to no avail, the sd that came with it just didn’t read in the printer. The printer is also not inherently recognized in cura (that I’ve been able to find at least), the instructions come with a guide to set it up, but from a new persons perspective i can understand it’s not ideal.

Great video, can you tell me how much space I would need for this machine? I know the dimensions, but I feel like it needs a bigger space for things to move around while printing.

@williamtrinidad3520

2 жыл бұрын

Found the answer myself in case someone needs it. kzread.info/dash/bejne/oG2dssGwoM_YntI.html

@paulodyssey6507

Жыл бұрын

Don't know if you still need a reply, but for my Kobra Max, I recommend 38 inches on both width and depth, and 30 inches of height. This should give you an inch of clearance in each direction.

Just bought a refurbished one and was curious if anyone knows what dimond back nozzle i can buy for this thing.

Is the anycubic Kobra go good?

I just got a Vyper, I just don’t like the side load filament spool I don’t have the room. But so easy to put together.

Anycubic makes some great products. Well priced and so easy to assemble and get printing.

Whats your favourite printer for tpe

you are the 2nd you tuber to talk about the bed braking 😮 do you know if preheating the bed made any difference 🤔 great review thanks for the video 😊

Hey Joel... I wondering, will you be able to get hold of and build and test out the biggest hobby level printer I've ever seen the new Tronxy X5SA-600. It has the new auto leveling black sensor for all bed types and a big ..big print area. Of 600 mm x 600 mm x 600 mm.. So 2 feet square print area to try out. I hope you get it so we all can see this monster cube design frame printer? Thanks 😄

@petercallison5765

2 жыл бұрын

Making month long prints is not my idea of fun.

Looks like its an upgraded Chiron. Ive been loving mine. Might have to check this out when/if I ever get some more room.

It sounds like anycubic needs to put a thicker (relatively flat) aluminum bed plate on it and a removable build plate with it. I think that would be nice since the thin aluminum bed plates warp alot

Great Video, made me buy it 😂 Which profile did you use in CURA? I’m thinking the Vyper Profile and adjusting the build volume?

@davidmendez1859

2 жыл бұрын

Also, is the bed actually 400x400 or 410x410? Want to order a PEI sheet before I use it

Hey Joel, how fast can this machine go? Try setting it up for high speeds to see how it performs

@petercallison5765

2 жыл бұрын

I bet it is gonna shake at high speed.

Gotta idea… Great non biased review btw. The world needs them all to be like this. Thanks. So… I’m curious. Do you think a piece of RAM board (heavy duty super thin cardboard) would work? If not then maybe even a brass plate Or even aluminum foil wrapped around the plate and when done peel it away. Grabbin at straws. I’ve been window shopping these printers looking for tool and machinery part print capabilities. This model looks best so far(from my POV) any tips let me know. Thanks again

A couple silly questions, Joel. Does Anycubic still use their own firmware or have they started to use Marlin? Secondly, could the squeaky sound come from the belts rubbing on the idler due to it being just a little out of alignment. My Prusa does that (because I've been too lazy to re-align it). Awesome stuff!

I don't know how people get stuff to stick to the carborundum coatings. I almost always need to flip the bed over to get good adhesion.

good to see they redesigned the belt tensioners, they look to be compatible with Vyper and I might upgrade those because belt tensioners on Vyper are horrible