This video is more a commercial than helpful content. It seems like it was made for people who have never even 3D printed not those looking to reduce print times

You can also tweak a few parameters such as: - number of perimeters - perimeters speed (interior vs exterior) - number of solid layers (bottom and top) - speed of solid layers (bottom and inner) - top solid layer speed, pattern and width - infill pattern - infill size - infill speed - infill every 2 layers - infill only where needed - travel speed - etc. Also, you can replace the current print system by Kilpper in order to reach faster speeds with same quality or even better. Depending on what your goal is (speed, quality, structure, balanced, …), you should be able fine tune more settings. I am pretty sure that you can reduce you print time even more!

@aldaman2725

Жыл бұрын

Please give us more details.

@J-_-S

Жыл бұрын

im new to printing, on maker website they provide printer settings, dont know if those parameters are optimal

@pollrodri6254

Жыл бұрын

@@J-_-S depends on material, geometry, external temp,... You will learn with time and failed prints

@oghomelesskid

Жыл бұрын

plz make a video on 3d printing.

@J-_-S

Жыл бұрын

@@pollrodri6254 oh yes Im failing, one piece failed to print, but rest of print has printed good. DOnt know why this shit is happening

Thanks for the slicing tips to make my prints faster. I will definitely give them a try. The ad plugs at the end of your video were not that painful as they seem to be for other people. Thanks again 👍🏼

TLDR: Increase the layer height Increase print speed Bigger nozzle Lightning infills

@MAGAMAN

8 ай бұрын

And this all reduces the quality of the print significantly.

@mihaicristian4079

8 ай бұрын

@@MAGAMAN You don't need .1mm quality when printing something very big

Would probably be more useful to present the percentage reduction in print time provided by each setting individually.

So, while Ive considered myself a hobbyist for years(all the way back to maker farm) what I have yet to see anyone do a video is development of a filament profile from nothing and explanation of all the slicer settings OR. complete calibration process for an individual printer for any given slicer. Slicers have a ton of settings and any one miscalculation can be disastrous.

@joshua2400

Жыл бұрын

that would be helpful

@joshua2400

Жыл бұрын

Jesus Christ the good true miraculous God loves you my friend :" )

@Dglinski2

Жыл бұрын

This would be so helpful for getting a profile setup on newer cura for my Lulzbot Taz6

@artemcultura6191

Жыл бұрын

Teaching Tech has a fantastic complete printer calibration walk through as well as profile creation

@king_james_official

Жыл бұрын

@@joshua2400 god doesn't exist. you're like a flat earther, you believe in something that can be disproven within seconds

Here's a video idea, 'How To Use Plastic Welding To Fix Broken 3D Printed Parts'. When something breaks, the simplest solution is just to print a whole new part and toss the old one. But that's wasteful when the part can just be stuck back together. Sometimes glue is the best option for this, but when something doesn't have enough surface area, you don't have glue on hand, and/or you just can't use it for one reason or another, take advantage of how parts are made in the first place and just melt them together with a soldering iron and a little filler material (the raw filament)

@michaelbujaki2462

Жыл бұрын

I use a 3D pen for this.

@crazybird199

Жыл бұрын

@@michaelbujaki2462 same

@Nine-Signs

7 ай бұрын

step 1, burn paper, collect ash (carbon). Step 2, mix into cheap ass 2 part epoxy resin you can get from any discount store for a dollar, step 3 glue/fill shit for a far more permanent/strong slightly flexible bond than you can get with any glue alone. ;o)

@MrJrohl

4 ай бұрын

Check out frankly built videos. He has severel about pla welding

Thanks! I'm gonna try it out tonight!

You’re increasing day by day, it’s incredible

Adding a Volcano or other high flow nozzle can make a big difference in maximum flow rate even if you don't replace the heater block. CNC Kitchen did a great video on different nozzle solutions which can handle significantly higher speeds without underextruding.

i just got my first 3d printer for christmas so im a complete beginner, all these tips are for sure gonna help. thank you!

Thank you for the information.

When it comes down to it, there are two ways to reduce print time: reduce the amount of filament used, and extrude at the maximum volume flow rate that your extruder or part cooler can handle. Wide, thick layers will result in a short print time, even at slow movement speeds. A wall that's twice as wide and twice as thick printed at half the speed still prints in half the time. It's also much easier to upgrade your max extrusion rate than to improve all the kinematics of your machine to enable faster movement speeds.

@psedach

Жыл бұрын

The third way is Klipper with input shaping. Better and faster commands to your printer. This removes the limitations in slow Arduino style controllers BUT your printers maximum potential will still be limited by the flow rate and kinematics of your machine (albeit the limit will be higher than without faster processing).

Great video!! Super helpful tips 👏

Wow... just WOW! Thank you!!!

great topic, thanks

You! Are the Man!!! thank you so much for that information

Banger of a video!

Great video. Thank you.

Need more Micro Centers in the country.

cheers my guy, big help. strait to the point i wanted

Am so gonna get into this around Xmas time

That helped so much

Very interesting tips, thanks 🙏

Yeah, you can print fast by swapping nozzle, increasing layer height and linear speed... but you must also have an extruder/hotend combo that allow you to push like three times the amount of filament in any given moment (on an Ender 3 with stock hotend/extruder you're not gonna push out 23+ mm3/s of filament at almost 10 m/s of filament speed) , not to mention the fact that you need to tune settings accordingly. Useful knowledge, but fairly incomplete unfortunately

@floridaman964

Жыл бұрын

Enough to get you started researching for more info.

@mattgavioli6762

Жыл бұрын

@@floridaman964 yes and no... someone could take only the info from this video and start to crank up shit, and halfway through a print find out that it doesn't work properly. One should know that this is incomplete info

@supersecularboypants

Жыл бұрын

@@mattgavioli6762 But in the video he said his Ender 3’s are stock, did he not?

@mattgavioli6762

Жыл бұрын

@@supersecularboypants hence me saying "... but you must also have an extruder/hotend combo that allow you to push like three times the amount of filament in any given moment (on an Ender 3 with stock hotend/extruder you're not gonna push out 23+ mm3/s of filament at almost 10 m/s of filament speed)"

@Ibian666

Жыл бұрын

@@mattgavioli6762 One should make it very clear in the vid what is missing, and perchance include it.

Thank you very much for this video!! Awesome!

very brief and helpful

You can also try increasing extrusion width

@michaelbujaki2462

Жыл бұрын

Yes you can. I did an experiment where I extruded a 0.8mm line with a 0.4mm nozzle. This really speeds up the layers.

@erikschmidt2571

Жыл бұрын

Yeah but that's basically what he did when he changed the nozzle

@mtayseer82

Жыл бұрын

@@erikschmidt2571 Most slicers set the default extrusion width to ~ 110% of nozzle size, but it can be increased to 150% or even 200%

@michaelbujaki2462

Жыл бұрын

@@erikschmidt2571 and with a 0.8 you can go up to 1.6mm line width, but turn up the heat because it will gobble the filament like you wouldn't believe.

Lol- love the Benchy’s!

thanks for the link for the $100 off the Ender pro. I picked one up! Subbed!

Really excellent. So many 3d print videos are not very useful. Printing times are a big issue and this video is right to the point. Thanks 👍

Thank you Steven…this vid was very informative. I’ve only been printing for a few weeks now…maybe two months top. Yesterday morning I had my first flirt with 3D printing disaster. I set the printer up and after watching it for a few layers…I set out to do other thing on the computer. It failed and I had a blow back. I cleaned it up and printed more.Tomorrow will be a tuning day thanks to your vid. You answered some questions I’ve had since before getting a 3D printer. I did get a few bigger nozzles and I’m gonna try the .6mm and speed it up thanks to your vid. I have a Elegoo Neptune 3 Max and I believe that I should have the house filled with 3D printed stuff already! LOL

Without the correct hotend and extruder combo you cannot print at more than 80mm/s without running into quality problems. The stock Bowden Ender 3 setup won’t work that well on high volumetric flow rates. Yes it is printable but you will face skipping on the extruder, or lots of under extrusions

I also heard that printers like the FLsun super racer prints 50-80% faster due to its 3 arm design. I use a ender 3 v2 since I just started recently.

omg tnx

There's a Micro Center opening near me in May. I wonder what kind of deals they will have.

I'm probably going to come off as harsh. I don't mean to. I just want to provide constructive criticism. I feel deceived. No duh using more printers will result in a faster print. I understand you are promoting a sponsor, and that's fine. But the beginning of the video made me feel that you were going to go over slicer settings that let you print that giant benchy using one printer. First video of yours I have disliked.

@slaughterman44

Жыл бұрын

@@greatestevar he does go over settings, the buying more printers is just a sponsor at the end

@yamaha230xxx

Жыл бұрын

Yea I agree this was light weight click bait…. He literally said thing any basic user of 3D printer should know…….. and he’s time tables was off, the original print time was 81 hours, yet at the end he said we saved over 80 hours? So the print time is less then an hour now???

@Phizixx

Жыл бұрын

You’re right also he said no upgrades then immeadiately said use a larger nozzle which is upgrade or alternate purchase so immeadiately a lie

@andrewut7ya511

Жыл бұрын

I hear what you are saying, but there was a couple decent tips that are legit. Lightning infill is pretty good and ill be honest, i didnt know i could print as fast as he did in this video. Ive been printing at work for about 6 months, all self taught so i still have alot to learn but my prints come out great on the ultimakers5. But im going slooooooow. Ususally at 30 sometimes up to 45 speed. Our prints need to be very precise so i just error on the slow side thinking it will greatly improve quality but now im thinking i could speed up a bit. Anyone got an opinion on prints speed in relation to precision? Like whats the tipping point where you atart sacrificing quality for speed. Im sure theres not one solid answer so general advice/opinions are welcome. Thanks everybody

@shadetreesupercar

Жыл бұрын

He did go over printer settings and reduced the print time 80% and 80 hours. It was only when he printed the HUGE model that he used multiple printers. If you feel deceived, it is due to a misunderstanding on your part.

Wish I had a micro center near me

I used print on my stock ender with a upgraded motherboard using 150mm/s and then I got the cr10 smart pro this year and I print depending on what I need to use the print for I print 250mm/s and it still comes out looking perfect.

@rightsdontcomewithpermits7073

Жыл бұрын

🤣

Are you doing any type of giving away for a 3D print in the near future? I would love to get back into 3D printing

😂 Micro center!!! I knew that was coming😂 to bad its 400 miles from where i live😢

I like how the music sounds like I just unplugged something from the USB slot.

If microcenter would build a store In Tennessee I would go there.

Infill doesn't really affect strength that much, if you want more strength add more walls.

upgrading hotend would also increase print speeds and making sure to use the latest Cura verison as well. There was an update awhile back that increased speeds by like 40% just from cura algorithm alone. With a new hot end, I was able to 2x speed in some cases but decided to go back down for better quality

oh well, one thing I didn't know was the lightning infill. I have 2 ender 3 with noctua fans all over. I van currently print at 100mm/s, this is double the recommended speed! so cheers to OP, for showing, that it's possible

@avgjoeshow4208

Жыл бұрын

Yea lightning is new in cura 5.0. I think the new PrusaSlicer update has lightning capabilities as well

@ytHUNTR

Жыл бұрын

@@avgjoeshow4208 thanks for the info, I will try it out

@avgjoeshow4208

Жыл бұрын

@@ytHUNTR yea check it out. It’s pretty sweet and can save loads of time. I wouldn’t use it on a part that you need any real strength though. But if it’s just for looks it works great

this was super informative and concise. keep up the good work

@qozia1370

Жыл бұрын

No it wasn't

My life goal: making my filament storage look like a store shelf.

There is an option on Cura which reduces my prints from 8 hours to just 3 hours and is called “Adaptive Layers”. I turn the option on and in most cases it dramatically reduces print time.

Ya I'd love to buy one... sadly the nearest microcenter is almost 6hrs away 😔

would love a mirco center in sweden ..

Throw a spider hotend on it, you can get a decent gain over stock hotends on the ender 3. I have been impressed with the flow and reliability of the spider. Don't get me wrong, it can't outflow a volcano but it doesn't ooze like a volcano does. With some tweaks to coasting and retractions it prints really good. If someone wants to push the speed a bit more they are going to need more hotend flow, a simple all metal heatbreak will actually provide a decent bit more flow pair it with a good Copper nozzle for even better flow and another benefit is reduced retraction distance (~2.5mm vs ~6mm stock) which makes a noticeable difference in print time. As for speed, you should have at least mentioned acceleration. It doesn't reduce the speed in cura BUT in real world prints it does. Stock ender3 if want to keep it like stock reliability 2k acceleration is perfectly acceptable on all my enders when they were stock. Rambling about my enders below if anyone cares if not, don't read anymore. Also willing to answer questions if anyone reads this wants to ask. I have multiple enders all with different mods. My most reliable is stock hotend with a bi-metal heatbreak, aluminum creality extruder. Followed by the spider hotend,titan direct drive, skr 1.4 turbo w/tmc 2209. Fastest ender of mine is the one with linear rails,coper volcano block, titanium heatbreak, bmg extruder, mks tinybee w/tmc 2208 and all steppers upgraded. Most troublesome but coolest imo is the dual nozzle, dual extruder setup. It's got skr 1.4 turbo w/2208, 1 titan extruder 1 bmg(not sure which I like more) it pushes as much flow as a standard v6 hotend but isn't for speed.

micro center has this deal a lot, right now it's for a ender 3 v2 which i like a lot, but i suck at everything so i couldnt get it running right, so now i have it on the floor somewhere wasting space.

How did you join that giant print? I’d like to know more about how to do that

Oh how I wish we had a Micro Center where I live. Fry's closed up so now we're stuck with Best Buy! Yeahhh!

What material or filament used here. Thanks

Ideamaker slicer has adaptive infil where you set a percentage for the majority of the print, but 3 layers before a solid layers, it will use the higher percentage. i set mine to 5 % and 15%. I also use 0.32mm layer height on my 0.4 nozzle with a line width of 0.5 or 0.6mm which is the same as a 0.6 nozzle, but with my stock nozzle. people think you need to change nozzles when you dont. 3D printing was originally designed around a 0.5 nozzle and 0.5 line/extrusion width. with my stock 0.4 nozzle i print with a line/extrusion width as low as 0.3 and as high as 0.6 with no issues.

@Leynad778

Жыл бұрын

Maybe your nozzle is worn out🤔

@LT72884

Жыл бұрын

@@Leynad778 its a new nozzle. You dont have to change to a 0.6 nozzle to get the benefits. On my 0.4, my line width is at 0.6 and my layer height is 0.32 for some parts

i got my prints from 1749 minutes to 409 with ONLY Settings. i made the outer lines thin and the inner ones thick but ran them both faster so that the smaller one still looks good with that extrution. strength works as well. allon a 0.4 nozzle

Just getting into the world of 3D printing, I wanted to expand my knowledge from metalworking and woodworking. 3D printing has always peaked my interest. What kind of filament do you suggest for making item that are UV resistance, rigid and durable. Wanted to make plastic inserts for leveling feet.

The US barely has a microcenter they need to be in every major city. I have never seen one in person

Rather than using lightning infill, I user infill support and/or gradual infill steps. They have been around in Cura from the beginning but too many people overlook them.

@Void_xplorer

Жыл бұрын

Can you tell me how is this done?

@LathanM

Жыл бұрын

Install the setting guide plug-in and it gives details on all the settings and how to use them.

@octimus2000

Жыл бұрын

How is it better than lightning?

I wish there was a micrcenter in Northern Nevada

Thanks for the tips! MyCreality slicer doesn't seem to have lightning infil. Any idea how to add it?

What kind off hot knife di you use to piece together that Benchy

Wow. Never knew this was an option.

very cool! At the end you show joining the several prints with what looked like a soldering iron. how are you joining the prints?

@avic6069

Жыл бұрын

I’m not too sure, but I’d guess a 3D pen, using the melted filament as glue.

@johnnymanutes2057

Жыл бұрын

It's a soldering iron. He's just re-melting the surface layers and bonding the two parts together with melted plastic. A cheap one off amazon works great.

@RobertLugg

Жыл бұрын

@@johnnymanutes2057 Harbor Freight and other hardware stores have soldering irons specifically designed to melt plastic. They work much better than a "regular" soldering iron.

Hey man I wanted to know what software did you use to split up the model and scale it up

Now I finally found a store where to buy filament

Good video actually I’m going to start printing a half life alyx combine charger and without this video it will take me a lot of time so you saved me

How do you get the price estimate of how much it would cost to print on the Cura’s slicer?

I've used all these except that infill tactic. Is that in PrusaSlicer too? Love using the other tactics, though

What acceleration are you running?

Is there any short List with the Options?

I bought my first ender 3 at microcenter and in the first day of printing I couldn’t be happier. Can’t recommend it enough

I wish I had access to a Micro Center here on Vancouver Island (my bank account is happy that I don't though)!

Hi Steven, whats the best free 3D Cad i should start with?

When does the coupon expire

Have you changed acceleration and jerk? If not, I dont think that you are really reaching 120mm/s everytime. Maybe in a long line you will, but not in a model with a lot of sudden orientation changes.

put your speed to 999 mm/sec and print in 10 minutes

Nice! You in SoCal that’s my local micro center. Can you help me dial in my ender 3 pro and I’m having issues updating my cr-6 se to the community firmware

Perimiters and acceleration: Am I a joke to you?

u saved me 3 hours on a nerf mag. thankyou good sir

darn youuuu!!! theres no micro centers in my state

Cool

I’m new to printing can you use different slicers for different printers like the Prusa slicer for a sovol?

Could you please give some advice How to slice the model for few separate part for printing them on the different printers at the same time?

ah wouldn't the east coast love a micro center (and an ikea)

What was the STL file for that giant Benchy

how did you make the cura to show you the price when you slice a model

i find hard to believe the hotend on the ender 3 can push 120mm/s printing speeds with a big nozzle.

@yeahnah6468

Жыл бұрын

Yep you're right. He isn't taking into account that the hot end can only melt a certain volume of filament per second. I normally print at 150mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle. But with a 0.6mm nozzle I can barely get past 80mm/s without running into issues. That's with bigtreetech upgraded board with nice stepper drivers and a pi running octoprint. This guy just messed with slicer settings and took the estimated time as gospel without testing those crazy low print times.

@ishanmamadapur6307

Жыл бұрын

Rated flow is inthink under 12mm³ per sec. So 0.4x120x0.28 is 13.44. So not too much for short bursts . The speed is always the top speed remember, which is achievable only if the line is long enough to accelerate to and decelarate from the max speed in the distance available. So often, the actual avg speed isn't going to be 120 per se.

@karlburmeister1552

Жыл бұрын

Ya, you can clearly see where it starts under extruding in the video.

@katywalker8322

Жыл бұрын

@@ishanmamadapur6307 , would the calculation need to be 120 x 0.27 x π x (0.4/2)^2? IE, taking the area of the circular nozzle rather than its diameter? Not sure as new to this so I might be missing something.

Now I want to know if a full size benchy is sea worthy!

@Nine-Signs

7 ай бұрын

Technically speaking, if the parts are welded well externally and internally, it should be, but I would imagine given how buoyant it would be, you will need to add weight to keep it stable else it will sit too high in the water and roll over at the first wave.

I purchased the 2v Neo last week. I followed all setup videos and pla not sticking to flex plate.

How do I find someone in my area to come and teach me hands on 3D printing

Speed up your prints by reducing the quality. What a genus.

I want to print a chair. Any advice?

Can you share profile settings?

My closest micro center is 3200 km away...

Microcenter needs to replace the Fry's that were in the San Francisco area. After Fry's closed, it left all those buildings just waiting for another person to come and take up all the customers that went there.

Hello, I see you are a creality user, can you make a video about why the creality slicer is bad and why you should switch to prusaslicer/cura? My friend is also a creality fan but will not understand why the creality slicer is bad

Why does MicroCenter not have a store in the SF bay area? Silicon Valley, man! Respect your roots! I'd love to shop at MC, but not enough to drive seven hours 😭

@karlburmeister1552

Жыл бұрын

Agreed! I hate driving over the Altamont from Stockton but I'd do it if I could get the micro center deals.