2 years going and still helping! Thanks for this video, saved me getting an expensive Felder tech out to do what is ultimately rather basic adjustment - knowledge is power!

@David_Best

2 ай бұрын

On larger machines like the sliding table saw, I generally pay to have Felder commission the machine so that if there are missing parts, damaged parts, or parts that are out of tolerance (happens a lot), then there isn't finger pointing. But as soon as the tech leaves, I do a complete realignment of basically everything.

Any time spent in David's tutelage is time well spent. Thank you, David.

@David_Best

3 жыл бұрын

Always happy to help - or confuse - whichever applies. LOL

Thank you, David! I aligned the sliding table on my Minimax SC2C, which has only four studs for the lower carriage. As a pilot, learning to hover a helicopter was much easier than aligning the sliding table. :-)

@David_Best

3 жыл бұрын

helicopter hover is a great analogy. LOL

Outstanding! Just the right amount of detail while still being efficient. Congrats sir! You provide great value to the Felder community.

@David_Best

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks. I debated going into more detail using a straight edge and feeler gauges or using the precision machinist level - both of which I skimmed over but are also valid techniques. They just take a lot longer and are more confusing.

Worth mentioning: if you buy a Starrett tool second-hand tp get a good price on it, you can send it to Starrett to get it calibrated, re-ground, or re-built as the case may be. When you get it back from the factory, it will meet the same specs as when it was made originally.

Mr. Best, thank you for taking the time create this video and share your knowledge with us (me). This is so helpful. I can't thank you enough.

Finally, I found a video on how to properly adjust the felder!!! What the factory service did, cried out to heaven for vengeance... I looked video, made it with my own hands - a class better, within the tolerance of 0.03 mm! According to the principle: if you want to have something done right, do it yourself! Thanks a lot, very helpful info.

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

I am glad this was helpful to you. Since 2001 I have been documenting as many of the aspects of calibrating, diagnosing, and fixing Felder equipment as I can. In addition to this video, you might find my collection of photos, videos, and tutorials helpful, which you can find at this link: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums Additionally, I have a full “commissioning” series at this link, although there are more up-to-date specific suggestions at the above link. www.davidpbest.com/VA/StonehorseShop/K975_Install/Felder_Commissioning/1-0%20Intro.htm

Thank you very much for the very helpful video. I got so many screenshots for pointers as a reminder. Im going to have a great time with my new saw setup 😊

Hi David, Thank you so much for this video it’s much appreciated. I have a KF700s and I could not believe how badly set up the machine was by the Felder rep. This was very helpful. Love your level..

Thanks David for going to the trouble of making this video. It’s really informative and no doubt be a great help anyone who needs it. It’s a bit more in depth than the Felder ‘how to videos’ 😊Cheers Chris

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. Lots more here: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/

Fantastic video, so helpful - thank you! Spent many hours trying to get my slider levelled in and this has helped immensely.

David, this is absolutely brilliant! I hope one day to have a Felder, I currently have the Grizzly G0623x. I’m going to use this method to get it adjusted and setup to proper use. After fiddling with a straight edge and eye squints for about 5 hours I finally came across this. I will report back with adjustments!

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Lots more here: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/

Excellent video David, not the funnest thing to watch definitely lol, but for those of us that expect nothing but the highest quality from our equipment and from ourselves this video is a gift

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Ryan. I do so appreciate your comment. Felder makes some great machines (be selective and do diligence on individual models), but one thing they have always sucked at is documentation. I encourage you to purse my other content here: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/

Wow. Excellent and painstaking explanation. Thank you so much.

Thanks I have the 2500 long slider on the Format4 shaper. The 10' slider is on a T60 Martin. The early Martin rip fence has no micro adjust for parallel to blade; I added 4 cap screws-OK now. I find the longer slider on the shaper to be a luxury thing in running the shaper. On the Felder 2500 slider I find the one and only stop to be a pain; I have added a second stop about 9" from the one stop and this is good for stopping the shaper for tooling changes and adjustments and keeping hands away from the spindle. The T60 has slider stops all over the place. I see you have the Vincent Rolfe fore finger, good. If I had it to do again I would place the second stop for the shaper at 11-12" from the original one.

You have given me a visual of what I must accomplish. I had noticed that my slide was just below the surface last November before moving. I am currently setting up again and your video was extremely helpful. Muchas gracias.

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome. Tons more info here: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/72157720370598884/

Great video. If your saw is rolled around in the shop, will this have to be repeated each time?

@David_Best

2 ай бұрын

It depends on the machine, the size of the sliding table, and how out-of-level your floor is. In general, the Felder machines all have a machine chassis that is flexible, so if you're floor is flat, you should be fine. But if it's not flat or you move it to staggered elevations because of cracks in the concrete, etc, then you could have ongoing sliding table alignment distortion.

Wow, I didn’t know how much work go’s into “getting it right”. I’ve have a hammer arriving within 2-4 weeks. I want it dialed in to the thousandth I an inch. I guess I’ll be buying an inexpensive persuasion level, and some dial gadgets with magnetic bases. My Moto for the last several years has been “buy once cry once”. But before the machine comes I have to wire 240v into my two car garage shop. The floor isn’t level. Thanks for the video, I would like to use you as a guide for the future if I run into a snag with level and square on this new saw (Hammer K3, Comfort).

I have only Hammer K3 which of course is not as accurate as your Format saw, but thanks to your explanation of behavior of sliding table (bearings position) i have finally managed to understand logic which bolt and when to play with. Also purchased 3 dial indicators helped a lot. Cant even describe how happy i am for this video. Thank you sir. Cheers from Slovakia

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped. More info here: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums

Thanks for taking the time to do such a nice detailed video. This is super helpful

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback. Other potential resources are here: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/

@petergute

Жыл бұрын

@@David_Best Terrific! Thanks for pointing this out. I'll check it out.

Just purchased altendorf wa6 with 3.1 sliding table, really enjoyed your video ! very well explained! I know my saw will have some difference due to brand etc but overall very well put together video :) thank you

@David_Best

7 ай бұрын

Glad you liked it. The sliding table on your Altendorf is a completely different mechanical structure. You will enjoy a different set of issues than are covered here. Best of luck.

@davidwright5853

7 ай бұрын

Oh joy ! can not find anything about the altendorf.. I have ordered some dial test indicators to just check over how it is at the moment, if its way out I may need to pay for an engineer to look over it@@David_Best

Thanks David!

super helpful thanks!

Thank you very much!

David, I can't thank you enough for this video. My sliding table (older k 700s with x-roll) is now riding quite a bit lower than the saw table and you know what that's like. I have to put the time in now to get it right and there's no putting it off any longer. My rip fence is also way off and I believe the only way to align it to the blade, on my saw, is to deal with the trunnions. It's so far off that I can't even use the rip fence except as a stop. So I guess I need to start there? But thanks again for this video, it makes it so clear what needs to be done.

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

On your machine the rip fence is adjusted by altering the angle of the round bar the fence housing slides on. There should be 2 - 4 threaded stand-off studs that attach that round bar to the machine chassis. By moving the position of the nuts you can change the angle of the rip fence relative to the saw blade. The process is covered at the following web page: tinyurl.com/7udu8e4c

@tomruth9487

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best , I only have those two adjustable bolts on the right side of the round bar. Looks like the left side of the round bar is fixed with allen head bolts to the saw table casting with no adjustment. Maybe I could make some thin shims to put between the round rod and the table casting on the left side? I'm thinking that might be easier than messing with the blade to table alignment? But maybe you know Best? (Pun intended)

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

@@tomruth9487 If one end of the round bar is fixed, and the other adjustable, you have all you need to change the angle of the rip fence to get the proper toe-out. Use the nuts on the righthand stud to alter the angle of the fence. I don't understand what you mean by "blade to table alignment". Your trunions are NOT adjustable, but you can alter the 90- and 45-degree stops if necessary. There are adjustable stops in the trunion (bolts with locking screws that bottom out of landings in the trunion castings). You might consider joining the Felder Owners Group and posting there with photos of the issues you are having - lots of people there to assist including me. Here's the link: groups.io/g/felderownersgroup Also, I have tons of detailed photos with descriptions relating to Felder setup and calibration if you take the time to dig through the folders at my flickr page: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums

@tomruth9487

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best Thanks to you, in just a few minutes, with only a 19 mm end wrench, I was able to at least get the slider higher by a few thousands than the table over the whole distance of travel, so at least I can use the saw until the dial indicator, machinists square, etc. arrive. Then I will spend the time to get it right. I am a member of the FOG and will post the pix of my rip fence rod adjustment problem there. As always, David, thanks for your reply.

Thanks, i have a Felder sav, and need to do this ajustment, i know now how to do....

Very interesting detail on how to adjust your slider so thank you for this. I assume this method relies on the slider itself to be flat (planar) along its length but I can’t see anyway around making that assumption. I expect some deformation (bowing probably) could occur over time along the slider’s length. I also liked your suggestion of the cheat sheet - it’s easy to make mistakes when things aren’t going to plan. Cheers.

@David_Best

6 ай бұрын

Unlike the lower carriage, the upper extrusion of the sliding table is very flat and rigid.

thank you!!!!!!!

Thank you

Fantastic video, thanks! One question - most precision squares are of the two-piece variety, a thin beam mounted to a thicker handle - but the long square you used to project at the bade is a single piece. You mentioned Polar (might have spelled that incorrectly) - I searched but didn't find anything with that name. Thanks in advance --

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

The square shown in the video was made in Poland, and I imported them for various Felder owners over the years, but they are no longer available. Grizzly makes a few one-piece squares that are similar and perfectly adequate tolerance wise for the work I show in this video. Here are some ideas: www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-straight-edge-super-precise-flat-steel-squares-6-x-14/h2697 www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-straight-edge-super-precise-flat-steel-squares-8-x-18/h2698 Hope this helps.

David, I just started on my Kappa 400x. I loosened the bolts today to 'release any memory'. The bolts were incredibly tight. The saw was commissioned by a Felder tech when the original owner purchased it. My question is, just how tight do the bolts need to be? Seems to me that they need to be pretty tight, but this was just excessive to the point of almost rounding fasteners. I have your survival guide (best purchase! Thanks!) just wondering if there is a trick to a starting point to set the toe? As in an expected gap from the cast iron table? Then how to keep that gap as you adjust the slider?

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

30 foot-pounds of torque is plenty. 5 is too little. If you don't have a torque wrench, and your 19mm wrench is about a foot long, you can judge 30 foot-pounds as applying force equivalent to lifting a 30 pound weight (that's about 5 gallon jug of water) at the end of the wrench. A Kappa 400x doesn't give you much margin in positioning the slider distance away from the edge of the cast iron top. The edge of the sliding table should be positioned 1.0 to 1.2mm away from the end-cap that covers the rip fence rounded aluminum housing. Referring to page 199 in the Survival guide, once you get the slider positioned at that distance, lock down on bolt #3, then proceed to align the sliding table for toe-out. The best methods I have found to actually get the lower carriage to move laterally to alter the toe-out is to 1) loosen all the studs to finger tight top and bottom except for one, then 2) fully extend the sliding table and use your body at the far end of the slider to nudge the table the direction you want it to move. If that doesn't work, then remove the end caps on the lower carriage and insert a long 2x2 into the extrusion cavity and use that as a lever to force the lower carriage into position. Hope this helps. DM me on FOG if not.

First of all, great video. I'm looking at buying a Felder K940 S that's less than 2 years old and looks brand new. He did have the Felder tech come out and set the saw up and calibrate it initially. My question is how much would you recommend dismantling the saw for transporting? There is a forklift for loading onto a flatbed truck and I have a forklift at my shop as well. Is it necessary to remove the sliding table? I'm thinking it's much like a piano in after it's moved, it will need to be re-tuned. Thanks!

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. Yes, I would definitely remove the sliding table before transporting the K940. Expect to realign it when you re-commission the machine. If for some reason you just can not remove the table, then make sure it's blocked in with wedges in the bearing ways (Felder uses a tapered plastic dowel for this, but hardwood would be fine) so the sliding table isn't sliding back and forth over a few mm distance every second and the latch is not beavering out the locking slot. If the machine doesn't already have leveling feet, this would be a good time to add them. Same chassis at the 940S: flic.kr/s/aHsmV6awbv

@jduke008

Жыл бұрын

Thank you kind sir! I will probably try to remove the table if possible . Like you say, it will need re calibration anyway. I like the wedge idea for securing the slider if it’s not practical to remove. Thanks again for going through the trouble of making the video and responding!

Nicely done

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Hope it was helpful. Lots more here: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/

Hi - i am in the machine tool industry where we work w/very tight tolerances, and i appreciate very much your understanding and capability! Curious, when you load the slide w/a 6' or 8' 8/4 piece of hardwood (width in the 1.5' range) that has some serious weight to it, and you try to do a crosscut, what type of tilt away from perpendicular to the blade do you see? Thanks

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

For cross-cutting operations, the material is supported by an outrigger table and crosscut fence. The outrigger table attaches to the side of the sliding table is supported from below via a telescoping support arm - similar to a jib crane in reverse. You can see a photo of this setup here: tinyurl.com/2p89kf7r Depending on the particular size/model of the machine, the outrigger tables have a load capacity of 300 to 1000 pounds. From a woodworkers perspective, the defection under load is essentially zero. I routinely crosscut a stack of four 3/4-inch 4x10-foot ApplyPly panels weighing 375 pounds, or 12-foot long 16/4 oak planks weighing 200+ pounds and the measured downward deflection at the end of the outrigger table (78-inches away from the saw blade) is under 0.005” at 200 pounds. More detail on setup and alignment of the outrigger table can be found here: tinyurl.com/fdmxvbnz Additional info on the crosscut fence setup is here: tinyurl.com/mrzjsrzv

Great video! Very informative thank you!! I’ve been having a lot of issues with my hammer K3 saw even since the felder techs came to set it up. They did t use a machinists level nor a dial gauge. Im sorely disappointed and have been feeling a strong sense of buyers regret 😢. So at 14:54 …what how do I make something perfectly flat when I felder in their grand wisdom have calibrated my bloody jointer for a spring joint? Man that annoying more than it is useful! Hehe as I said , buyer remorse 😅

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Different machine, but same principles apply: flic.kr/s/aHsmc4uK4K

hope you are still checking these posts. you mention that you are making sure the cast iron table is level as a first step. level in reference to what? I'm thinking that you zero the level to the floor first but maybe not. Thanks.

@David_Best

2 ай бұрын

Yes I I am checking commentary here. The important thing is that the cast-iron table is flat. I mean dead flat as in one single plane. The cast iron top becomes the reference surface to which you align the sliding table, so if the reference surface is not flat, you’re chasing your tail. The easiest way to ensure the cast iron tops is flat is to level it precisely along all four edges. If all four edges of the cast-iron top are level then the surface is flat - or at least as flat as you’re going to get it. The cast top doesn’t have to be level per se, but it does have to be as flat as possible. Cast iron surfaces are easy to twist into the shape of a banana if your machine is not sitting on a flat floor surface (Felder machine chassis are flexible enough to conform to the floor surface). So I always recommend putting the machine on adjustable leveling feet and using those leveling feet to adjust the top to a flat surface. But the cast iron top is suspended at all four corners via adjustable studs which attach it to the machine chassis. You can use those four adjustment points to bring your cast-iron top into a near perfectly flat condition. Once that’s accomplished, you can move onto aligning the sliding table surface to the cast-iron top surface. Hope this helps.

@David_Best

2 ай бұрын

Did you read my response? Was it helpful? If not, let me know and I'll do a write-up for you. More resources are here: davidpbest.com/publications-and-videos#felder

Just received my K700S. Thank you for this video. How close was your saw set up from factory? Totally intimidated now too get it dialed in. Hahah

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

It's always far enough off (I've helped at least 20 people self-commission their new K/KF700's) that it will need all the adjustments I go through. If you had Felder commission the machine, the technician will spend at least 2 hours doing sliding table alignments, maybe more.

@christopherballard3560

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best No I assembled the saw myself yesterday. Still haven’t fired it up yet. I definitely love to pick your brain. Also need help setting up my Ad941 as well.

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

@@christopherballard3560 I'm not sure what you mean by "no". I wasn't asking a question - all I'm saying is that IF a Felder tech commissioned your machine, he/she would spend at least 2 hours adjusting the sliding table. If you want to interact with me or other Felder owners about your self-commissioning process, I suggest you join the Felder Owners Group here: groups.io/g/felderownersgroup If you want more on commissioning a K700, go here - this steps through the process: tinyurl.com/8z939bfp There is lots of information related to the saw, shaper, and jointer/planer setup/adjustment on my Flickr pages here: www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums

@christopherballard3560

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best Sorry my “no” was referencing that I didn’t have a Felder tech come out to set up my machine. Thanks for all the info.

It’s makeing the locking mechanism (ie the nuts) operate in the same plane/direction as you’re trying to fine adjust a bit silly? I mean you adjust the height just perfect then it all goes out of whack when you tighten then nuts. If they just made a clamping mechanism that clamped 90deg to the direction you’re trying to adjust (ie 90 deg to vertical) this would be so much easier to adjust. Then the bolts could be tightened o tho the horizontal clamps to stop anything moving due to vibrations. Same issue on their planers.

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

There are lots of areas where the Felder designs are lacking. They design & build to a cost standard, not to a quality standard. Some machine models are fine, others not so much.

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

The weakness in the Felder sliding table design is the fact that the lower carriage is a bendy aluminum extrusion. The sliding portion won’t behave properly if the rail it rides on is shaped like a banana. A Martin uses a rigid steel box-beam ground to precision flatness.

@ 37:40 of your video, I see you have an applied wood extension on the end of your cross cut fence. Is this to simply aid in lining up your material to the left edge of the blade? How did you go about attaching this piece? Thx

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

That is the Zero-Clearance crosscut fence extension. It has three uses: 1) to help know exactly where the blade cut will be, 2) to push small off-cuts past the blade, and 3) as a backstop for the Fritz & Franz jig. Build details are here: tinyurl.com/5y28r74y If you want more information on a broader set of topics, I suggest you visit my Flicker log book here: tinyurl.com/yuppsrum I also suggest you join the Felder Owners Group forum at the following link - there are users there that are making 3D printed versions of that ZC extension for both crosscut fence profiles: groups.io/g/felderownersgroup KZread comments are not intended for a lot of interactive dialog.

Nice job! I should do the same thing ! But I have a question; how do you initially set the "zero" of the 3 gauges? I mean, magnetic side is on cast iron table and how do you know the correct height of the gauges if the sliding table is not yet well aligned? THANKS from Italy

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Watch this video: flic.kr/p/2o9byW7

@cescone999

Жыл бұрын

@David P Best of Best Services Many many thanks David! You did it already, superfast! It's pretty easy! I thought while moving the magnetic base, the gauge could move itself during the transition, and I didn't think about the preload of the gauge. I have never used that utensil Really really thanks, finally I will set perfectly my sliding table !! Ciao from Italy !!

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

@@cescone999 Ciao back to you. I've visited your country many times over my life and parts of it I really adore. I particularly like Umbria, Montepulciano especially, and up in the north near the mountains. I've had some wonderful times in Milano, Venice, Florence, and Pisa too. I'm really into food and wine which you'll realize if you go to my Instagram pages: instagram.com/davidpbest/

Hello David, I would like to read the opinion of you and the community, which sliding saw could you recommend, the K 700s or SCM nova si400, thanks in advance. Blessings for all.

@David_Best

8 ай бұрын

Email me please: david@bestservices.biz

@David_Best

8 ай бұрын

Sill waiting for an email. Happy to help.

At 27:45 you show the use of your machinist’s square for checking the “drift”. Could a person use the Felder rip fence in the same fashion to get accurate results for this check? Do you have any videos on making a zero clearance insert for the end of the Format cross cut fence? I have a brand new K700S and I’m in the middle of setting it up. Thank You

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

The answer to your first question is "no". The sliding table drifts away from the blade, the rip fence drifts away from the blade in the opposite direction. If your crosscut fence is square to the travel of the slider, and you then put the precision square against the crosscut fence and extend it over to the rip fence, you should see an ever widening gap where the square rests against the rip fence extrusion. If the rip fence and slider toe-out are not adjusted properly, you will experience kick-backs and burning of the material on the trailing edge of the saw blade. The "best practices" method to align the rip fence so that it has 0.002-0.003" of toe out is shown here: tinyurl.com/9jkfb8mb Here is the link to the crosscut fence extension - but this is for the digital fence system. tinyurl.com/5y28r74y If you do not have the digital crosscut fence system, the profile of the extrusion is different. There are plans for the non-digital fence on the Felder Owners Group ( ) and Bill Billenger there will 3D print a plastic version for a small fee. Join the FOG here: groups.io/g/felderownersgroup I have tons of additional information at my Flickr web pages here: tinyurl.com/yuppsrum

@tundrawhisperer4821

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best Sorry for the confusion. I may have not asked my question well enough. I’ve already set up the toe out for the rip fence, which I’ve set mine at .003” for that. I was wondering about removing the rip and using it as the straightedge to clamp to the saw blade to check the toe out or drift of the sliding bed. Thank you very much for the links, I’ll try and contact Bill about the zero clearance insert. I’m not sure I can machine that aluminum as well as you did in your video. I did join the FOG, I’m still trying to navigate through that site to understand how to find information a bit better.

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

@@tundrawhisperer4821 the rip fence extrusion would be an excellent straight edge for use against the saw blade to reference for the sliding table toe-out alignment. Clamp it extremely lightly to the saw blade or you will distort the measurement. Post questions on FOG - we will reference prior posts in the archive.

Exceptional video. This is the best video about adjusting Felder machines. It is not clear for me one point: How do you adjust table going away from the blade? The nuts adjust height, but how to adjust left or right, to make sliding table go away from the blade

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

Felder used to supply a bracket with adjustment bolts on the machine chassis that pushed sideways on the lower carriage to adjust the toe-out. Since about year 2009, they began eliminating these brackets/adjustment bolts, presumably to save a few dollars in manufacturing cost while at the same time driving up the amount of technician time by at least 30 minutes during commissioning. Your machine may or may not have this bracket with adjustment bolt (it's shown in this photo: tinyurl.com/9p4npatu ) If your machine does not have this adjustment mechanism, here is what I recommend - this is how I perform the toe-out adjustment, it's crude, but about your only choice. 1 - After the gross alignment of the sliding table height using the four central adjustment studs, proceed as follows: 2 - Loosen the top nuts on 3 of the 4 studs. I generally keep the stud on the inside ahead of the saw blade tight, and loosen the other three. 3 - Pull the slider to the extreme infeed or outfeed end of it's travel. 4- -Standing at the end of the sliding table, use your body weight to push the sliding table laterally, toward or away from the machine as required to alter the toe-out. 5 - In practice, I find it useful to just bump my hip against the sliding table, but occasionally more force is required, but I wouldn't get carried away or you might break the plastic bearing cage that's sandwiched between the lower carriage and the sliding table extrusion. 6 - If this does not bring the table into proper toe-out, loosen the top nut on the 4th stud and try again. 7 - Once the toe-out is where you want it, tighten all the upper nuts again and re-check all alignments (height, level, and toe-out). I have encountered a few Felder machines, where additional lateral force and leverage was required. In those situations, I removed the end-plates on the lower carriage extrusion, inserted a 6-foot long rigid pipe or hardwood 2x2 into the internal webbing of the extrusion, and used the pipe as leverage to force the lower extrusion to pivot laterally. Hope this helps.

@user-ip7pk3sh9u

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best Thanks a lot for detailed explanation. It looks like my CF741 (2011) doesn't have an adjustment bolt. I just bought it as second hand unit. So I will try to do it the hard way, Just need to get all necessary equipment.

@tomruth9487

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best Very interesting, I will look for the adjustment screw, thanks

I have the Felder 531 with four bolt locations. How would you adjust your method for this case? My main problem is that I can get the table fairly flat in its middle position, but it goes VERY twisty at either end of its range of motion. Is there a way to check for warping or other problems in the carriage base? Is that likely, or do i just need to try harder?

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

How long is your sider and what year was it manufactured?

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

Join the Felder Owners Group and take up your question there. KZread is not a place for this type of exchange. groups.io/g/felderownersgroup

@rogermartini2291

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best I believe the slider is 2 meters. I’ll try out the owners group.

How much did that sliding table weigh? 10 foot slide has to weigh a hundred or so pounds.

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

It weighs about 250 pounds. I use a variable height wheeled bench to install and remove it. Look at these photos. flic.kr/s/aHsmM2BqbY

how do you adjust the toe out?

@David_Best

2 жыл бұрын

Felder used to supply a bracket with adjustment bolts on the machine chassis that pushed sideways on the lower carriage to adjust the toe-out. Since about year 2009, they began eliminating these brackets/adjustment bolts, presumably to save a few dollars in manufacturing cost while at the same time driving up the amount of technician time by at least 30 minutes during commissioning. Your machine may or may not have this bracket with adjustment bolt (it's shown in this photo: tinyurl.com/9p4npatu ) If your machine does not have this adjustment mechanism, here is what I recommend - this is how I perform the toe-out adjustment, it's crude, but about your only choice. 1 - After the gross alignment of the sliding table height using the four central adjustment studs, proceed as follows: 2 - Loosen the top nuts on 3 of the 4 studs. I generally keep the stud on the inside ahead of the saw blade tight, and loosen the other three. 3 - Pull the slider to the extreme infeed or outfeed end of it's travel. 4- -Standing at the end of the sliding table, use your body weight to push the sliding table laterally, toward or away from the machine as required to alter the toe-out. 5 - In practice, I find it useful to just bump my hip against the sliding table, but occasionally more force is required, but I wouldn't get carried away or you might break the plastic bearing cage that's sandwiched between the lower carriage and the sliding table extrusion. 6 - If this does not bring the table into proper toe-out, loosen the top nut on the 4th stud and try again. 7 - Once the toe-out is where you want it, tighten all the upper nuts again and re-check all alignments (height, level, and toe-out). I have encountered a few Felder machines, where additional lateral force and leverage was required. In those situations, I removed the end-plates on the lower carriage extrusion, inserted a 6-foot long rigid pipe or hardwood 2x2 into the internal webbing of the extrusion, and used the pipe as leverage to force the lower extrusion to pivot laterally. Hope this helps.

@isar3707

2 жыл бұрын

@@David_Best Appreciate the time and detail David, thank you.

Thanks for the awesome information. Just got a smaller slider and have seen people suggest aligning the slider to be inline with the cast iron. You specifically did not do that. If you don't mind, could you elaborate on the benefits and drawbacks of doing so?.. thanks again.

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

There is no guarantee that the edge of the cast iron top that faces the sliding table is aligned with the saw blade cutting circle. The saw trunion assembly is attached to the underside of the cast iron top, and that attachment point is not precision aligned. Therefore, the saw blade might or might not be aligned to the edge of the cast iron top. It could be off by as much as 1-2 degrees. The edge of the cast iron top is therefore NOT a reference surface. The reference surface is the cutting circle of the saw arbor. Does this answer your question?

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Watch the section of the video from 24:30 to 29:20 again - that section describes two methods of checking the sliding table alignment (toe-out) to the cutting circle of the saw blade.

@horacionochetto8454

Жыл бұрын

​@@David_Best thank you for your reply. What about having the slider a couple thousands above the cast? I noticed you do that, but I know others put in exactly on the same plane. Is the fear that there will be drag in the cast?

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

The side-edge of the cast iron top is not suggested to be a reference surface. You haven’t understood the alignment process. You align the slider to be 0.005” above the cast iron top. Then you align the toe-out. Then you adjust the trunion so the blade cuts 90-degrees to the slide and cast iron top.

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

You obviously do not understand the alignment sequence. The top surface of the cast iron top, once made flat. Is the reference surface for setting the sliding table elevation. Get the iron top flat, then align the sliding table relative to it as shown in the video.

David how can I get in touch with you to purchase your Survival Guide? Thank you! Mariusz

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

Join the Felder Owners Group. Post your request there. groups.io/g/felderownersgroup

@marmiz923

Жыл бұрын

I did, and I still don’t know how to get in touch with you.🙁

@David_Best

Жыл бұрын

@@marmiz923 I see no posts from you on the Felder Owners Group. Post a request there and I will respond.

@marmiz923

Жыл бұрын

I just did by starting a new post. Thank you!

@marmiz923

Жыл бұрын

David, I have a question about adjustment bolts on my KF 700P ( it has only 4 ), so I imagine adjusting the table might be a bit more difficult… , but hopefully your Survival Guide will guide me through it. This is not the forum to discuss it on… Anyway, this is a great video and I would have been much better off if I had seen it before the technician came over to set my machine up. Thank you for posting it! I look forward to your response on the FELDER Group Forum. Mariusz

👍👍🇧🇪

Can you send me a link or item number for the dial gauge holder from Minute 23? I've been looking for it for 2 years. Thanks and greetings from Germany.

@David_Best

9 ай бұрын

www.amazon.de/-/en/UEETEK-Mechanical-Display-Measuring-Indicator/dp/B07C4PJXS7/ref=sr_1_12?crid=P93G8OC8KTD6&keywords=dial+indicator&qid=1696293687&sprefix=dial+indicator%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-12

@David_Best

9 ай бұрын

or this: www.amazon.de/-/en/Draper-Expert-51831-Indicator-Imperial/dp/B0002BUUL6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=7PUFMMYY860T&keywords=dial+indicator+imperial&qid=1696293810&sprefix=dial+indicator+imperial%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-4

@David_Best

9 ай бұрын

Perhaps you were referring to this? oneway.ca/products-category/miscellaneous/Multi-Gauge

@David_Best

9 ай бұрын

Make your own: flic.kr/s/aHBqjAX1FY

@David_Best

9 ай бұрын

flic.kr/p/2p6SCM4

Wish you were my next door neighbor....

@3:38 Deeznuts!

@David_Best

Ай бұрын

Turn up your hearing aid - I said “these nuts”. Do you have anything actually useful to add here?

Thank you