Thanks so much for making this video! I followed your method and was able to get nice consistent results using your test print for calibration. I made sure the initial layer of each object in the test print stuck to the bed and was well formed. After this, the issues I was having with parts of the print lifting off the bed were resolved. Your method worked a lot better for me than messing with the built in calibration or using a sheet of paper.

VERY HELPFUL Chuck. I'm still struggling a bit, but thanks to you and a few of my other "KZread Professors" I'm making positive progress! Thanks for sharing...

I had to print the adjustment test 3 times, but the adjustment turned out amazing! Far better first layer than I have ever gotten in the 1.0a. Great video and suggestions!

Thank you, it works perfectly!

U Made my Day man! I tuned make it slightly different to u. I use simlplify 3d. There i just tell the Programm to do something like 10 to 15 skirts and while the printer is doing them i do the adjustments. then u see the changes strait away. Chears and thank u sooooooooo MUCH!!!!!

Really enjoying your videos. I'm thinking about buying one of these for my first 3D printer. Your videos have cleared up several concerns I've had.

Thanks for all you help

Chuck, Thanks for the tip. My bed was really off. To much gap on the right and no gap toward the left rear. I couldn't figure out why this was happening since day one. Now that I've adjusted the bed using this method the prints come out much cleaner. No more dragging unstuck ABS throughout the print.

Worked great , thanks!

cheers chuck! I was fed up with my da Vinci over objects not sticking, this trick makes it stick better than it ever did with glue

It's pretty cool you can upgrade thermal management for industrial processes by applying low profile heating foils

Thanks for the tip! I had just spent 3 days getting mine calibrated and finally managed when I borrowed someone's calipers. This will help a lot in the future. =D Unfortunately, part of the glass bed peeled off with one of my prints a while ago, so I've covered the bed with Kapton tape. I'll probably buy a stronger sheet of glass sometime soon, so I'm sure I'll have to re-calibrate again. This video will help. =D

Thank you this help!

Thanks Chuck for a very useful post. And the test file of 12 thingies. Here's what I did. I started by using the paper method (start a print and turn the printer off) to give a starting point. I then printed the test print (the 12 thingies) as above and cancelled the print immediately following the first layer. I then measured the thickness of the first layer of the thingies at each 90 degree point and found the thickness to be about 0.45mm with terrible adhesion. In fact the purge line detached and ruined the first thingy. I was surprised by this, I used a single 80gsm paper layer and was expecting it to be too close not too far away. Next I repeated the print and adjusted the bed height screws during the print so that the bed came closer to the extruder. There are 3 adjustment screws. On the documentation with the printer these adjustments are shown as + and - with no definition as to what that means. It seems - means bringing the bed closer to the extruder and + further away. The adjustment was easier than I expected and after a couple of iterations I had the bed so that the measurements of the first layer thickness was down to 0.2mm and adhesion was excellent. The layers were well and truly squished. I went a bit far on the left of the bed at one stage and heard a clicking noise from the extruder. Turns out the nozzle was bearing on the glass directly (no gap) and the filament could not escape. It seems the motor was driving the filament but with nowhere to go it was slipping on the filament. This is a good indication that the bed is too close. I then printed the complete thingies not just the first layer. This was a sweet print. They are very nearly vertical on the thick part with a bit of a lip at the bottom, circular and stuck like jam to a blanket on the glass. Here's the measurements (Note that the numbered positions are not correct as per the printer layout: No X Y Z 1 9.55 9.41 6.93 (5 past position) 2 9.43 9.45 7.04 3 9.4 9.33 6.94 4 9.16 9.33 6.99 5 9.31 9.34 6.93 6 9.35 9.24 6.99 7 9.32 9.31 6.97 8 9.34 9.4 6.94 9 9.31 9.3 6.94 10 9.3 9.52 6.97 11 9.3 9.21 7.03 12 9.23 9.26 6.96 Average 9.33 9.34 6.97 Not sure what the target dimensions are. Typically this will do for what I want the printer for. Once I was happy with the position I added locknuts to the adjusters and tightened them. This should reduce the movement during printing. I did move the adjusters slightly as I tightened the locknuts so I did a another test print run after and measured every single first layer thickness with the following results: 7/03/2015 Position Thickness Deviation from average 1 0.28 0.07 2 0.25 0.04 3 0.22 0.01 4 0.21 0.00 5 0.27 0.06 6 0.2 -0.01 7 0.19 -0.02 8 0.16 -0.05 9 0.18 -0.03 10 0.18 -0.03 11 0.22 0.01 12 0.21 0.00 (12 o'clock position at the front of the printer) Average 0.21 It seems the printer is now very close to the sweet spot of 0.25mm remembering that the measurements are subject to some error. The single layer prints are beautifully wide and stuck solid. The bed isn't perfectly level but I am not hugely concerned about a deviation of 0.07 mm. I could do another round of adjustments but instead I am going to try a large scale difficult print. Hope that this helps someone who is being driven to distraction wasting time on bed calibration. Chuck, one suggestion, is it possible to create the test file with the first layer only so there is no need to stop the print? Regards, Fred.

Thanks in the info... Have you seen in person the Davinci 1.1?

how often do you re calibrate your bed? Every print, every 5, every 10?

Very informative video. Thanks I looked at the DaVinci and its attractive price, but was concerned about having to use what seemed like soul sourced filament. Do you have any comments filament supplies? I decided on the PB Simple Metal which has been getting good reviews. May eventually upgrade to heated bed.

Thank you for all if these videos. It has helped me with my da vinci 1.0A. Thinking bout flashing it. How has your printer been since you flashed yours? any major issues?

You are awesome sir!! Because of your videos now i don't have any worries in buying a da vinci 1.0. Thank you and I'll be back with questions once i get my printer ;)

Mine had the filament inside. The best way to get it is to take the heat tips off the heat sync and put them upside down over a candle, then push a needle into the melted filament while it is pliable. Once that is cool, just pull with pliers to get the jammed filament out.

This is so hilarious I was having the problem where my bed became too close and it wasn't extruding and I was starting to freak out. And I noticed as you said it was like too close so I pulled the bed down with my hands just a little bit and it started to extrude I always wait for my first layer before I walk away and sometimes like you said I'll have to adjust by hand the bed and look at that thickness and about 0.2 works great. I seem to have calibrated it three or four prints ago and it seems to be staying fine I get all antsy when I don't see the immediate release of material . I have also noticed that sometimes just because a layer doesn't print or part of it didn't print sometimes you can let that go and you'll be okay you just have to watch the first few layers eventually the printer catches up with itself and the layer becomes the same layer all the way through. Thanks for your tips and I'm sure you're helping out a lot of other people that were having the same problem. I also have a quick question when you're extruder is to close do you get a clicking sound coming from the extruder.

@ineedcolor

9 жыл бұрын

***** This happened to me tonight. I wasn't happy because I've only had the printer a few days. The rear of the platform is too high and when I went to make a large area print, I got the dreaded clicking and no flow. I'm calibrating now.

@ineedcolor

9 жыл бұрын

ineedcolor So...after having mushed first layers, first layers being stripped off or pushed around by the nozzle and eventually clicking and loss of flow, I manually calibrated my build platform. I figure that because of the method used to adjust bed height (screws under tension) that movement of the platform must unload the tension on the adjustment screws on occasion just enough to allow it to rise out of calibration. I am rebuilding the project I stopped last night now and we'll see what happens...

@ineedcolor

9 жыл бұрын

***** Hi Chuck So far, so good. I even used your method to make some tweaks on the fly just now. I'm making the geared cube from Thingiverse and the pins have to be just about perfect because they're so small. Thank again for the great video(s) and hard-learned information!

Thanks for this. I used the calibration one time and it was terrible. I decided to not change the level and I got two different numbers even though I didn’t change the bed level.

I use 3D EeZ... on my not heated 3-D Printer... but it works on heated printers as well.... it creates a surface that allows for easy adhesion and yet can be easily removed afterwards

Hi Chuck, nice video, I'm still new to the 3D print world (I have recently received my DV 1.0) and Sketchup etc. My early attempts haven't been very satisfying but I'm sure that's down to my inexperience. Keen to learn! I couldn't help but notice your print bed appeared to have a hole in it near the centre, where like mine, some of the surface material (glass??) has broken away. Is this something I should address under warranty or is the bed regarded as a "fast moving part" (a la automotive)? I have considered simply removing and flipping it over, would that be a better fix than my simple method of avoiding the region? Appreciate your vids an look forward any advice. Cheers, Mike E

Once you make an adjustment, do you undo it after the print? Over time does this lead to a needed bed adjustment? Thanks for the tips.

Chuck, would you mind uploading the print you used in this video? I would like to use it to practice getting my layers the right height.

In your slicer what do you have your layer height set to in this demonstration? Are you still using the XYZ Slicer?

Hello, you vid's are great. Are you using a special print bed? Mine doesn't look the same. Thanks.

Hi Chuck! I'm complete noobie in 3d printing, but learning fast watching your videos and reading articles. I haven't done much of a printing with my Da Vinci 1.0A yet. I've got a question regarding bed height. There is some tendency with my printer that in the initial stage nozzle catches previous layers (I noticed 1st and 2nd layer). I can hear a nozzle bouncing of off the edges of previous paths. I can also observe this while I'm looking from the top of working printer - there are clear marks made by hot nozzle on ABS. Is it common? I have leveled hot bed couple of times and I got best result of 243, 249, 249 out of calibration feature (which was a pain in the butt, to be honest).

Does this work for the newer red model of the PRO 1.0 version ? Thanks

thanks I really don't get how to calibrate the bed with the piece of paper but in this way its easyer plus I have the same dent as your printer but mirrored on the right side , so I think its a common issue

@gatsu8888888

9 жыл бұрын

thanks , I tried that and after using the paper I launched the calibration mode just for curiosity and were really wrong , I ordered a digital gauge for the next time , I also tried with a classic bubble level but it was centered only on the bubble of the level but the bed was really high on the right side and really lower on the left one

Are you going to get a da vinci 1.0 pro?And love your channel!I just bought the pro and it allows third party filament with a optional laser.

The reason it heats up is that it has to allow for expansion of the metals (Bed, nozzle, etc.) for an accurate measurement/calibration.

Chuck, I just unboxed my DV 1.0 and the auto calibration sucks. Once I get a "success" and save the settings the nozzle is way too high and the extruded plastic rod is thinner than the space to the bed. I've needed to re-glue all the bronze bushings that were loose and re-adjust the belts on the "Y" axis to get the trolly to run perpendicular to the Bed and "X" axis because printed circles were not round. I use your method to adjust the bed height but once the bed is adjusted the Nozzle head bangs into the bed when it first cleans the head on a new print. Does yours do that when the bed is adjusted to 0.20mm ??? BTW what do auto calibrate numbers show after you manually adjust your bed ??

Interesting! Now, when finished calibrating it..Can I start using that philosophy to print no glue any type of object size without spoiling the termination of a large object? sorry for the orthography. I use a translator Thanks you very much

Hi chuck found this helpful have my XYZ 1,0 running at .20 - .23 using the I am using the printer printer for a reasonable large print 155 x155 even though I have cleaned it very well and new cartridge ,the bed seems to hold the job well I am seeing little lumps in such a long run can send you a picture any help would be app.

@marknorris3265

8 жыл бұрын

Thanks Chuck ,I thought it was looking great until it started leaving a few deposits table set at XYZ 155 at the three points will lower it to around 200 and see what happens .cheers

I calibrated my bed until it passed then used the paper method. Im tried printing 4 small parts in unison but the nozzle catches the print while moving. Any ideas? Adhesive issue?

Have you heard of the new version the 1.0A, it's supposed to have the Duo board (without the chips for the second extruder) and a magnetic door catch and some other little changes. BUT the big change is the FW, it will send the filament casing number to XYZ and you will not be able to reset that casing once again. :(

@JulianGoesPro

9 жыл бұрын

well, I might have put it the wrong way... the "old" 1.0 could use non xyz filament by just resetting the chip thats in the cartridge that came with it... now it will no longer be as simple as that...

@JulianGoesPro

9 жыл бұрын

***** did not know that! 1.1.J seems like a game changer for me! :) Thank you!

Good method. I use the method of paper and it's going very well. However. If glue is not used can be risky. Especially in very high parts. these can be lifted and ruin all the work and if ABS is used with more reason. I use hairspray and never had problems. Hair Spray, cleans easily with alcohol. It is very easy to apply and the layer is very thin so it does not affect printing. Regards

@gcrady

9 жыл бұрын

Spot-on Tip ! Regardless of what machine you use. So easy to do, and effective. #1 TIP FOR BEGINNERS. "Home" all axis,, release/disengage/turnoff/powerdown the motors, (different machines and/or software terminology). Now you can move the X and Z gantries by hand. Drag a sheet of paper along with the "clean" nozzle tip, adjusting the bed screws, until it just barely catches the paper,, check all 4 corners, twice, to ensure stable accuracy. And/Also,, No need for kapton tape, blue tape, or secret glues,,, glass and hairspray,, keep's it simple. You forgot the magic words, "AquaNet Superhold" :) I use removable beds, and it works great, even on cold beds of glass or acrylic, w/PLA. "AquaNet Extra Superhold" works even better w/ABS. That stuff squirts out of the can really thick. And I've even been able to lower my bed temp to 90`c. Tip for removal: 2min. in the freezer,, print lifts right off. For cleaning,, I just use a sharp putty knife to remove any high spots,, and recoat. And of course,, apply a fresh thin-coat before starting a new print.

I've been trying for weeks to get my printer calibrated. I've been using the Calibration inside the Davinci printer itself and no matter what I do, I can't get all 3 numbers anywhere close to the 235 that it mentions. I've found calculators online for adjustments but nothing seems to work. Any ideas?

I have the same printer, it worked well until the heatbed started getting too hot so it melt my abs prints, any solution for this issue? (Y)

I just got a XYZ DaVinci 1.0A, where is the print bed home location supposed to be? Close to the extruder, or at the base of the printer?

@ScornedOne1080

8 жыл бұрын

Ah, thank you

My print bed is higher on the left hand side, do you know what screw will lower it? Sorry if this is a dumb question.

@adamandharrys

9 жыл бұрын

Thanks chuck, sorry for the stupid question.

Hi Chuck! i suscribe to your channel :D, one cuestion, what is the red thing under the bed?

@sos.gamers

8 жыл бұрын

thanks!

Hello! I have a xyz 1.0a anced whenever begins printing has never the point 0 on axis ! design not centered ! can you give me an explanation ? thanks

could you put a peice of cardboard on the bed when u calibrate it?

Friend specifically for this device serving Da Vinci 3D Printer Cartridge Eliminator XYZEROCART I want to know if this team can put my printer as a free cartridge and place any filament of any provider without buying the original cartridge thanks

I'm trying to figure out why I can't even get a measurement on the auto calibrate. All I get is the +ERR message for all three points. The bed won't go high enough to reach the detecting pin and even if I max out the bed height with the knobs and it is able to touch, I still get the error.

@jimbowden6700

8 жыл бұрын

+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Chuck I get the same +err message on all 3 points but the printer never even tries to do the other two? I had allready set my bed like you did in this video as I learned this a while back from my TinyBoy. So it prints fine but any idea why the calibration don't work?

***** it seems daunting as a beginner to do by eye. i had no success with paper how do the numbers in the calibration work. i ended up getting the app from amazon which seems to help i just cant imagine what i would do with the numbers with out the app. also iv got a small dip in the bed now is that normal for heated beds?

Have you tried Zebra plates?

my nozzle does touch the edges of the bed,because of the y axis, someone knows hot to reset the y axis ?

0.18 mm is the thinnest, whilst 0.45mm is the thickest.

im not sure if I am tired but could you send me the adjustment steps, did not grasp it via dialog

could you upload the file your are using to calibrate to thingiverse and share the link? Thanks for the awesome videos I subbed!

@golfingkote

9 жыл бұрын

***** Awesome thanks so much!

Chuck i have values: 208,197,262 cañibration fail so the generic default values what will be? To be correct?

@renesolis2604

9 жыл бұрын

Chuck you are a lifesaver !! highly recommend all you´re videos. Can´t wait for filament friday !!

Just saw this printer on sale on Amazon for $399.00...(12-22-2014) Wow

Hi. My davinci was used so I didn't get any software with it. So I've had to use the sd card in the back to put the gcodes on. Any way ypu could help me out with a disc.

@FilamentFriday

3 жыл бұрын

I no longer have my DaVinci’s or any support material.

@justinmcdonald29

3 жыл бұрын

Ok would instill be able to connect it to my laptop since its been repetier flashed. Its only showing up as arduino in my connected device list so when I go into xyz ware it don't show up. Or in cura

please help me I have problem with connection with pc ..my pc cant see the printer

SO last night my printer failed on me :( the extruder head will no longer get hot :(... Luckly i ordered through amazon and when i said i wanted a replacement printer bam they are already sending me a new one :).. Unluckly this will hurt my 3d printing fun i had planned with my family for christmas eve night :(. I hope the second one last longer.... Anything you might know of why the extruder failed to heat i did move the electrical wires going to it a few times and they seemed to make it work for a second and or it would work and once it moved it would cool right down... im scared this will happen again...

@gatsu8888888

9 жыл бұрын

I had the same issue today , I just took off the two black plugs and used this one www.marklinfan.net/pmm/pmel-001.jpg and now I have a strong connection PS : you have now 2 good working extruder lol good job XD

@swvader

9 жыл бұрын

gatsu8888888 they are replacing the whole printer... but i dont even notice what that is you have or what part ?

@gatsu8888888

9 жыл бұрын

take a look at chuck's site www.elproducts.com/chucks-blog/davinci-3d-update-extruder-warranty in the second image you can see a black plug on the right , that plug send the electricity to the extruder making it hot , I found that at some point after 2 month of use the plugs weren't working good cause sometimes they do contact and other times don't , so instead of calling the support or buying spare part I just replaced the male and female black plugs with that piece I showed you and now the printer works good with a strong connection PS I have the 1.0

The extruder is just moving the print I used almost half of a stick of glue with no avail sorry the reply is on this video but comments have been disabled on the wrench

c est vrai ils on une bonne forme mais ça colle pas comme moi .

bonjour , bonne années a tous (e) et meilleur vœux 2016 , bon OK ça marche je l ai fait et bien régler avec les molettes merci pour votre vidéo par contre a par ça j ai un problème avec le logiciel du scanner !? ..

c est sur le premier passage qu' il faut régler

@MultiBegbeg

8 жыл бұрын

ok merci pour votre réponse je vous tien au courent de l évolution MERCI

why you bought 2 printes for 600 instead of 1 printer for 1200?

I need some help I've tried everything can you please email me personally so I can talk to you through there. I got a da vinci with repetier .91

@dirtymotovlogger2152

8 жыл бұрын

***** I got it. My setting on my repetier that I got from a guy used he had it all messed up. But I watched the end of your videos and read your comments.... for any one doing the paper trick buy your self card stock paper it's about .22 and it works wonders now. Thank you keep up the great work. Love the videos

Here is another way to calibrate your printer. Using a machinist dial indicator. Check it out. kzread.info/dash/bejne/nI6mpq2RqZrWe9Y.html

La traduction You tub n est pas terrible il pourrait faire des effort .

Chuck Hellebuyck = Chris Christie minus (-) some LB's plus (+) a brain