I was gonna say, when you said the machine was "too fast", my first thought on a comment was "install a SERVO motor". Servo motors are really nice, especially when you need slow speed control. Stock they can be very slow, but sometimes people want them even slower, then you'll need to adjust your pulley setup/gearing.

Survival Citizen, I appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. I initially bought a singer 155W 155 and ended up realizing after a month that REVERSE is a really handy thing to have. I upgraded and picked up the same machine you own, the same style of Japanese built Consew. In terms of your sewing technique, I notice you do something interesting at towards the end of where you're sewing: right before you hit a pivot point, you lock the stitches a few time, and then you simply keep stitching and stitch "past the piece". Since those last 3-4 stitches haven't been locked, you can simply unstitch them and snip em back at the lockstitch. I'd used to stop immediately at the lockstitch, then pull some extra thread through the tensioner to snip. I like the way you do it, because those extra 3-4 stitches where you run past the workpiece give you those extra few inches that allow you to snip.... and still have enough thread leftover to trap down easily on your next sewing operation. Hope this all makes sense. Thanks again.

Excellent

Chris A... You have your Google+ account set to not allow "anyone" to reply to your comments. So you will not get any comments on your question until you fix this (see KZread how-to videos)... But to answer it in general post, I use a fabric cutting wheel and a self-healing mat. They are very affordable at places like Jo-Ann Fabrics when you have a coupon or they are on sale. They easily cut through several layers of 1000d cordura.

NICE! I sew the same stuff on a smaller scale. I'm wondering if you could get more height on the presser foot by using a knee lifter instead of the handbar?? I see this on many industrial machines both newer and old models.

@SurvivalCitizen

9 жыл бұрын

Not really... The knee lift pushes up on the same mechanism...

@azbikerider49

8 жыл бұрын

+Survival Citizen Sometimes using the knee lift will make it go higher.

I am trying to sew heavy duty polypropylene webbing together, making straps. so i was just sewing across the webbing to sew on the buckles. I sew back and forth several times, 1" webbing and it is not holding together put tension on the two pieces and they pull apart, some are good way too many not. I seen where you start in the middle and sew back and forth, like you machine mine is too fast and stopping where I want is not an option, I was wondering about smaller stitches, definately want to slow the machine down, maybe see if I can get a smaller machine for the job. but for now I have a fast machine and straps to make any thoughts.

How about bridle leather. I am looking for something to sew 2layers of bridle leather.

So the 66 wouldn't go through the pair of nylon? I was debating on adding a 1.5amp motor to my 66 so that I can sew some seat belts but it sounds like I should probably just head to the upholstery shop.

Nice machine! I'm trying to make a handle by using a piece of thin nylon webbing, folding it over into 3 layers then sewing. After that I need to install a grommet near the end. I've got it down but it's time consuming because I have to cut each hole in the nylon before folding and sewing. Would you have any ideas maybe for another way to attach a nylon strapping to a flat surface? Or maybe an easier way to cut the holes in 3 layers of nylon?

@twowaytrauma2617

9 жыл бұрын

Go to radio shack, and buy a soldering iron. They have several types, and all will get the job done. The one you want is the one that is advertised for soldering and wood burning, or hobby use. This comes with a bunch of attachments, a few of which are great for burning holes through nylon. I would not recommend using an upholstery hold punch for fabric, as they are expensive ($90ish), and the cutting tips wear out frequently. Just buy the soldering iron, and melt the hole in the fabric. I've been DIYing it for a few years. If you want more tips, check me out on facebook at facebook.com/twowaytrauma

@SurvivalCitizen

9 жыл бұрын

Yes, soldering irons can be your friend, albeit they make somewhat messy holes and cuts... But it works, if that is what you need. To get all-pro, you will need to buy a real nylon webbing cutter for almost $200...

do you have a website. I need a. tactical holster made for a heckler and koch mk23.

some reason on my machine , its not getting the box stich corners right, i sink the needle turn the webbing, and the corner looks like its missing the stich, looks like a 45 degree corner.

@SurvivalCitizen

7 жыл бұрын

It sounds like a bobbin carrier and needle timing issue, or a gap issue from needle to bobbin carriage arm. Both are covered in the manual for adjustment. It is not too hard with decent tools.

@csabi72

7 жыл бұрын

It's not enough just to sink the needle in order to make a turn, it has to ne a stich.

Question, do you or would you consider selling custom nylon items? Custom pouches and such? Thanks.

@csabi72

7 жыл бұрын

what type of items you looking for ?

whats a decent home machine for sewing nylon webbing? I don't really have space for a table machine.

@SurvivalCitizen

10 жыл бұрын

No such thing... Just buy a home machine that has a STRONG motor, you can tell by the rated AMPS. Also, if you hold on to it, how easy does it pull free from your grip? It will be hit and miss, as I do not know what brand to recommend... But on a home machine, #69 thread is as big as you will be able to go... So do not make anything that will be used for SAFETY GEAR and the like, as that gear needs thicker thread.

@lifeisgood070

9 жыл бұрын

Survival Citizen ah crap. Can't make your own safety gear. Know any places to get webbing sewn? Rei said they wouldn't do it in store.

Also. I notice there different types of milspec webbing. Which type works best for belts?

Hey I have the Singer version of your machine and you talked about your motor and pully setup for slowing the speed down. I was wondering if you could send a picture of that setup or the size of pully and belt you use? I need to tame mine down a little.

@SurvivalCitizen

10 жыл бұрын

The pulley is a smaller one sold on eBay for industrial sewing machines. The Enduro motor is also sold on eBay. That is all I can help you with at this time...

Would this handle a layer of scuba webbing plus heavy nylon webbing? I have a singer hd4423 and it'll punch through it, but the stitch quality is poor and the bottom stitch bird nests like crazy. I've fiddled with tension until I was blue in the face to no avail.

What is the name and type of cloth you are using?

@SurvivalCitizen

6 жыл бұрын

It is nylon cordura fabric and nylon military webbing.

How do I contact you? I have a belt I need fixed.....

hi I have a consew 206 rb1 can I ask what is the longest stitch length your machine can do the book says 3 1/2 but the best I get is a little over 4 thans in advace ray

Where do you buy your webbing?

@SurvivalCitizen

7 жыл бұрын

I found almost all of it on eBay, the fittings from Paragear. Unless you buy in bulk, you have to have an eagle eye for military surplus webbing on eBay.

I've got a question when sewing with cordura do you have to use a certain type of thread just wondering I'm just starting to get in to sewing and make tactical gear.

@SurvivalCitizen

9 жыл бұрын

Ideally you will use military surplus thread sold on eBay. It comes in many sizes and it is TOUGH nylon thread. I typically use sizes 69 (E) to 138 (FF), but 69 & 92 are my main sizes. The upholstery thread sold at sewing shops is good too for home machines.

@docfischer7291

5 жыл бұрын

Don’t use nylon... use a bonded polyester thread like Sunstop. If you are going military contracts you will have to have a good certification for that also. They will let you know , if going private for extreme, go Tenara thread. Expensive but the tenacity is awesome and UV resistance phenomenal

I'm confused, thought the whole point of getting a servo motor is so you can use the up/down arrows (or knob) on front to control the speed? Can you take a look at this, After I made this video I moved a few things according to what those booklets said and now it's messed up again. I'll make another video showing that but.... Can you make a video showing how your feet move and if you know how to adjust both feet show that etc? kzread.info/dash/bejne/aJl2z9KakrWxnKQ.html Thanks

@SurvivalCitizen

8 жыл бұрын

+azbikerider49 The servo motor does two things for me: 1. It is QUIET as compared to a clutch motor that runs all the time, and 2. It slows the process down to a crawl if I choose to want that. Slow and detailed sewing is very hard to do with a fast rpm clutch motor. These machines were built for SPEED in commercial operations. The servo motor and smaller motor pulley bring the speeds down for novices like me, and for more detailed sewing. It makes it more like a leatherworking machine, slow and strong (see videos of true leather sewing machines, they are slow BEASTS)

@SurvivalCitizen

8 жыл бұрын

+azbikerider49 I will take a video of my Consew feet action today and upload it. Another thing to look at is the "Safety Clutch" that sits in the middle, on the underside of the machine. It is possible that that can be 180 degrees off. I can disengage and adjust mine by pushing a button on the sewing deck, yours may be different. I know this as mine was off 180 degrees and it was not sewing right, then I figured it out, pressed the button, turned the manual handle and the bottom shaft turned in the clutch and popped back in. It was now properly timed again. I will look at your video now...

@SurvivalCitizen

8 жыл бұрын

+azbikerider49 Here is the detail video of the walking foot operation I made just for you... But others will find it useful as well, I am sure...kzread.info/dash/bejne/jHqjl7Gycsi_hto.html

@azbikerider49

8 жыл бұрын

+Survival Citizen My machine does not have a safety clutch, however I would like to add it, and it goes on the right side, acts as the belt pulley.

@SurvivalCitizen

8 жыл бұрын

That right assembly is very bulky... That may be your safety clutch, for if it was just a sprocket, it could have been much smaller and simpler. This is why I think that big unit is a safety clutch and you adjust it by the button that engages that ramped tooth sprocket. It may be stuck, as old oil gets very gummy and like glue, so it may not move without disassembly. Also, think about how much time and effort you want to put into this project. I bought my machine for $500 with table and clutch motor (now replaced with servo), so before you spend $$$ on that machine, ponder if it is worth it. You could always part it out if you can't get it to work...