The Mago is my single choice for a few of my hardest sport projects in the Washington area. Poor edges on steep terrain where you basically never stand on an edge but press through them is where this has come on the most, especially bouldery cruxes with just nothing for feet but directional handholds. This version has a much better feel, broader fit, the heel is improved, the toe rubber is better placed, but these new ones come on as my comfortable linking pair and my previous generation for redpoint attempts. This said, the new ones are better than every other shoe but the previous generation at this terrain, and even then it is minimal. Also, the laces slip in the new ones. Takes no time to get them on my feet but to dial them in takes forever.

Did you determine what the "perfect type of climbing" is for the new Mago? It would be interesting to know for what type of climbing other people use this latest version. I can safely say, for me at least, not gym.

@ukclimbingofficial

Жыл бұрын

I think Theo settled on them having quite a defined niche, which was ultimately focussed around board (and board style) climbing. If it's overhanging, and there's something to stab you're foot onto, then they're amazing. Beyond that, I think he found himself reaching for other shoes first. That said, they were very good at what they were good at!

How it performs compared to the Instinct VSR? For me it's in the same middle ground softness. Not too soft but not rigid as the Instinct VS. Also I don't know if a comparison between this two is even possible but anyaways I'm really into one of this

@vitorkellermann6522

Жыл бұрын

Also I'm climbing most in slightly overhang and sometimes face climb granite and also overhang limestone

@ukclimbingofficial

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, they’re quite difficult to compare aren’t they and - if anything - I’d actually say there’s more differences than similarities. I think the Mago excels on steeper/overhanging terrain - that’s it’s specialty. The VSR’s strength lies within it being pretty good at just about everything - it’s a generalist (and a really good one at that).

Does anyone know how the stiffness of the toe compares to the chimera?

@IsuckYoungBlood

2 жыл бұрын

If it's similar to the old one I would say it's slightly stiffer than the Chimera, but still quite sensitive.

@theomoore958

2 жыл бұрын

I haven't used the Chimera but here's what I said about the toe in the review on UKClimbing. "The Mago's business end is still the toe. It performs excellently on small edges because it's really sharp and accurate. However, there's something quite unusual about the Mago. I wouldn't describe it as a soft shoe but it is very flexible. As a result you have the toe box of a stiff shoe combined with the midsole flexibility of a softer shoe. This means it's great on edges as well as smears but that it also has this unique ability to edge well whilst still having a lot of flexion, making it an incredibly versatile shoe. It's particularly good for slabs and, much like the original, is good on board-style problems (two quite contrasting styles!). That said, I haven't done much board-style climbing lately, so still feel like I'm yet to find that particular sweet spot in terms of the Mago's abilities."

@11airon11

2 жыл бұрын

I have been a long time user of the old yellow chimera ( never tried the 2021 updated model) and i find toe stiffness very similar to chimera...tension system under the arch of foot is stronger than chimeras and toe box tip is slightly more contenitive for fingers, but overall tip stiffness to me feels very close...older mago was more different than chimeras...this one new updated version feels quite similar in That area..

@zacharylaschober

2 жыл бұрын

Stiffness is similar but structure quite different. There are nonexistent edges I trust which the Chimera and even Booster could not do.

Curious if the sizing is the same as the old Mago??

@theomoore958

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Cody, I've not actually climbed in the old Mago so I can't tell you exactly. However, they now use a new last (same as the Booster, Boostic and Chimera) so I'm almost certain they'll size slightly differently. I've written a full review here with comments on sizing: www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/rock_shoes/scarpa_mago-14362

@11airon11

2 жыл бұрын

I went for the same sizing, and i think this new version is more comfortable and more forgiving for the foot...old model felt tighter and with strong tensioning....so shape and feeling is different, but sizing to me remains the same...i am same number across all scarpa shoes mostly..

@zacharylaschober

2 жыл бұрын

I would say a half euro size down from previous version if you enjoyed the strenuous position those kept your feet in. At the same size, these perform extremely well but the feel is off, and even a session in are easier to slip on my feet than my old Mago after a year of sessions.

sizing compare to the Instinct Lace ?

@ukclimbingofficial

Жыл бұрын

Whilst we can compare sizing, it's worth mentioning that in terms of fit - they're a very VERY different shoe; however if it's just a reference for size that you're after you should be a similar size in both, so if you're a 41 in the Instinct Lace you should be either a 41 or 41.5 in the Mago.

@maurocesar6055

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. I imagine that.