DO IT YOURSELF! ANY QUESTIONS? ASK ME IN COMMENTS, I WILL HELP.

Just did my first oil change, your video helped, thank you!

Watching this from the uk, great video so thanks for uploading, about to buy a T10 shortly, cannot wait. Subscribed also.

Great video. By the way for the first maintenance (1000km/600 miles) requires changing the shaft drive oil (which makes sense as there's gonna be some initial wear there as well). For what it costs, I'd rather change the oil too often than not enough. Fueling today cost me 40$ for 19L..., so the cost of oil changes is not much in a season, I don't mind changing oil every 6000km and change the oil filter every 12000km (Yamaha recommends using mineral oil, so obviously synthetic oil will last longer).

2022 US OEM manual states no diesel (rotella) or non motorcycle oil. Change every six months or earlier miles, filter every year or earlier miles. Tip-Use magnet drain plugs to catch metal bits. Hand tighten oil filter. Measure when warm, not cold. Drain on side stand. Measure on center stand.

I always change my own. IMPORTANT WORDS OF CAUTION THOUGH. I've had two STs. The plastic Skid plate, clearly evident at 2:00 is held in place by four 4mm bolts. The two that go in horizontally, toward the rear are tapered ends. I had changed my oil three times, the fourth time, the "metal washer" he pointed out at 3;30 came off (I didn't notice) when I removed it. Put it back together after the oil change and noticed a drop of oil on the floor. It was near where that bolt on the skid plate's left rear side. Started to remove it and a stream of oil emerged. The tapered bolt had gone in too far, missing the "metal washer" (which is really a metal spacer,) and penetrated the engine oil pan, which is really just a flat plate. Needless to say I was quite upset. I ultimately removed the new oil, then took the plate off. Took it to a local guy who does a lot of welding and he used some special aluminum alloy (he knows the stuff inside out, I don't) to plug the hole. The bike has been Yamaha perfect over the 8 thousand miles since. BOTTOM LINE>> MAKE SURE THE SPACERS DON"T FALL OUT WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC SKID PLATE.

The nut is for removal only. Many leaks on K&N filters because the nut was used for installation. I know you used very little force and will likely never have an issue, but it is incorrect to tell people to use the nut for install. FAQ on the k&N site will confirm this info. Should also be printed on the box. Thanks for the video.

@georgewood9119

3 жыл бұрын

That’s a vey good bit of information, however there is actually a torque setting fir the filter!

@jrussell441

3 жыл бұрын

@@georgewood9119 I know it can be confusing, but the nut is not for install. There are many filter wrenches that can be used for install and allow you to use a torque setting. Go to this link and read the FAQ for oil filter install. www.knfilters.ca/faq. CAN THE NUT ON WRENCH-OFF® OIL FILTERS BE USED FOR INSTALLATION?

Very good

شكرا لمجهودك

ничего не хочу сказать, но в России смена масла стоит 5$. работа по смене масла, разумеется

🤟🏻🤟🏻🤟🏻

I buy rotella 15w 40 for 16 bucks and I get 3 Yamaha oil filters from amazon for 30 bucks. Only a fool would allow a dealership to bend them over. If you don't know how to do general maintenance on your own motorcycle maybe you should just stick to riding a bicycle.

Who charges 500$ for a oil change? Wtf

@paulbunyun3663

2 жыл бұрын

Who pays 500.00 for a oil change

4T means 4 stroke engines 😂😂😂😂

dealerships are criminals with 600 for an oil change

Three comments: The oil should be more than a little warm because whatever is in the engine will flow out more completely when hot. Plan on running the bike at least until it is at operating temp. And - and this is a bit anal - when wiping the oil from the drain holes and filter mount, don't use paper, use a lint-free towel/rag. I would also recommend changing the oil AND filter every three thousand miles if you plan on keeping it for some time because, 1) it's butt-simple, and 2) it is a well-documented fact that more frequent changes will contribute to longer-lasting mechanicals: just makes sense, regardless of how fabulous the oil companies say their products are good at suspending particles, and who in their right mind thinks betting on a $17 filter to be "clean enough" is a good idea?! And besides spending an additional $60/year and an extra 30 minutes, there are no downsides. I second @andywiggens1069 using Shell Rotella 15w 40. Have used it for years, as have many of my hard-core motorcycle friends.

You do understand that the manufacturer sets the oil change interval and not the oil companies right? What a very stupid thing to say.