Definitely going to try this! Last summer I built a large-lensed camera specifically for doing cyanotypes and other slow processes "in camera". It still takes several hours to expose. I'm looking forward to trying this method!

@saidanehabib

2 жыл бұрын

I took some amazingly detailed and sharp images with less than an hour of exposure time. I produced also in-camera cyanotypes on transparencies but was not able to use them to make contact prints the reason I am working on another process to produce CHIBA in-camera photos in black and white using also the citrate. Check my coming videos. Have fun and have a great summer.

@arooobine

2 жыл бұрын

@@saidanehabib Subbed. I look forward to your upcoming vids!

Very good thank you for posting, I have had several people ask if this would work and have not had a chance to test it so I will direct them to your video, Again thanks for posting

@saidanehabib

2 жыл бұрын

Try it, it's lots of fun.

I'm fascinated by this magix technique. Great Job Mr. Habib. looking forward to following your channel.

wonderful wonderful!

@saidanehabib

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much, more interesting experiments in the way.

Habib Saidane - you are my cyanotype superhero! I have been creating cyanotypes for years. I have wondered if anyone has improved the original 1842 process. I have read about people using the one-chemical-at-a-time method. This is the first time I have seen a detailed, useful tutorial. A question: inkjet paper, only? Or, does traditional watercolour paper work? When I try this, I will send you a sample! Best wishes from Vermont. 🐧

@saidanehabib

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you, I have discovered this method on my own before COVID and I posted my findings in facebook, but I never had time to make a video and post it here. In my previous video I used Canson and Artisto papers. Not all Inkjet photo papers worked for me since they use different sizing. These are Epson paper, Kodak worked also. Any paper that works with regular cyanotypes will work. Use what you have and go from there. Stick around and you'll see good stuff regarding alternative photography coming.

@Paul1287

Жыл бұрын

I forgot who invented this process, but it is definitely found in 19th century literature. In fact, there were many formulas for cyanotypes since the mid1800's but this one is probably the most unique that I read about.

thnak you !!

@saidanehabib

2 жыл бұрын

You are very welcome.

برافو

@saidanehabib

2 жыл бұрын

شكرا جزيلا

Just wondering why we don't see a latent image on the paper before you brush on the developer? Thanks for the video

@saidanehabib

7 ай бұрын

A very good question, a faint image can be seen after exposure, however to produce the image the exposed sensitized paper requires the potassium ferricyanide to produce the Prussian blue.

Great vid, I was looking for a quick cyanotype development method. I'll try to use it with 36mm film and a UV enlarger.

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Frank, I am in the process of making a UV enlarger for 35mm and 120 film and also another one using a DLP projector so I can expose straight from digital images. We need to be careful and protect our eyes while exposing. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

@aomanchutube

4 ай бұрын

​@@saidanehabibI was successful in making a 8.5x11 image using standard cyanotype formula on standard printer paper using a DLP projector unmodified. The projector puts out 4000 lumens. I found it on eBay for cheap and went for it. With a 1000 lumens I was able to make a 2.5x3.5 image. Both exposures were 1hr long. Now I'm thinking of what I can do to get more UV light from the projector and the answer is the color wheel. Since the beam is focused when it's passing through, it looses the most power there and it is the most filtered there. The problem is that the wheel is before the DLP mirror so you would eventually damage the wheel. The other loss comes at the mirror but probably no issue there, and then there's the lens. I haven't found a chemical way to remove the coating from the lenses without damage. But I haven't really looked. I was able to remove coatings from my old glasses so I'm sure it is possible.

@saidanehabib

4 ай бұрын

@@aomanchutube That's great. I removed the color wheel of a projector I have and it stopped working and I need to bypass that. I believe there is a filter after the bulb that should be removed to increase UV lights. Also any modification will result in producing lots of heat that should be dealt with an extra cooling system. Good luck and we'll keep each other posted.

Hello Habib, hope I didn't mistake : For the developer I used "potassium xexacyanoferrate(III) Potassium ferricyanide / 99.6+% Photograde". But I also got "Amonium Iron(III) oxalate Trhiydrate 99+%, pure aprox 13 % Fe". Is this the first one needed to reveal the image? Merci

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

Hello, I use only Potassium ferricyanide as developer. Check out the description right under the video for all details. I use the same ingredients used in cyanotypes. Let me know if there is any confusions.

so basicly you are doing the mixing of the emulsion after the exposure? nice

@saidanehabib

2 ай бұрын

Thank you, correct, and it's also like developing the image after the exposure.

Hi! Very interesting video! Do you know why adding the potassium ferricyanide after exposure speeds up the process so much?

@saidanehabib

Ай бұрын

Thank you, a very good question. The only thing I can think of is that the presence of potassium ferricyanide acts as a filter and delays the speed of the absorption of the UV light to transform the ferric ammonium citrate. But I could be wrong.

Thanks a lot for this technic. Does citric acid may do the same as oxalic acid?

@saidanehabib

2 жыл бұрын

You are welcome, I am sure it should work, try it with a small amount and share your findings please.

@LartiZen

Жыл бұрын

@@saidanehabib Yes Citric Acid also works !!! ; Hello, I wanted to thank you for this new approach. Do you have a background in chemistry? I just tested your method today. Not in a very precise way for the moment because I am waiting for the raw materials. So I went through the ready-made kit from Jacquard (classic cyanotype) and simply added oxalic acid to their solution B (ferric ammonium citrate) to sensitise the solution. For development, I added a little oxalic acid to solution A (Potassium Ferricyanide), and another test by replacing the oxalic acid with citric acid. I have the impression that the citric acid develops the latent image better, and above all, once rinsed, the addition of peroxide (12% hydrogen peroxide) the blue becomes much more Prussian blue, whereas with the oxalic acid I don't see any real strengthening of the blue after rinsing. I'm not sure, I'll have to test again. For the exposure time, with my UV strip led housing, it divided the flashing time by 3 (12 min before, 4min now). Quite appreciable :) Thanks from France.

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

@@LartiZen Merci beaucoup pour votre gentillesse et pour votre partage. I have some background in chemistry from the old school days while studying in Tunisia and Belgium. Thank you for sharing your findings, that proves once again that this method cuts down on the exposure time. If you have time check out the videos especially the CHIBA process one for more fun. I'll be back in making new videos soon. Have a great week.

@LartiZen

Жыл бұрын

@@saidanehabib Bonjour Habib, yes, very, very interested in the Chiba process (very few sources available on the internet too bad...), maybe it's possible to do multi-layer? Like the gum arabic / pigment process :-) Can't wait to try it out. I had ordered some tannic acid, to try to make a toning from cyanotype to "reds". I manage to get some dark almost black, some yellow, I need some red or pink to get into trichromy. Have you ever tried it? Right now, I'm going back to silk-screening. See you soon. A bientôt 🙂

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

@@LartiZen Yes I did, since the bichromate is getting hard to find in some countries the CHIBA process is safer and a good alternative. If you have access to facebook check the page "The Chiba System // Procédés à la gélatine citratée" and search my name you'll see some tricolor CHIBA samples. Beside of pigments, you can use any watercolor tubes including gouache. I'll post videos in the future. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

amazing. i want to try it for in camera exposure. how would you gauge exposure time? by experience i guess

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, with a bit of oxalic acid the exposure time becomes much shorter. With an old 8x10'' lens I was able to make a sharp in-camera cyanotype of a bike facing the sun in 20 minutes. Uncoated lenses are ideal. I also used a minolta X-700 and it worked great. I would start with one hour or two exposure and go from there. Epson inkjet photo paper make good cyanotype negatives.

@AnaloguePT

Жыл бұрын

@@saidanehabib thank you for your reply. I will source for the chemicals and try it out.