Interesting process. Thank you & happy new year!

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much, the formula works each time.

Thank you so much for this - I have plenty of gelatin, so I've little excuse now to try it out!

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

You'll like it, the texture and the resulting relief it gives are amazing.

Thanks Habib, do you obtain good grays range or is it much like high contrast style ? (black and white). And happy new year !!!

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

Thank yo so muchu, that's a great question, it does and it should give a nice tonality range as in cyanotypes and gum dichromates if not better. I'll conduct a test soon. Not to forget that by varying the percentage of the main emulsion ingredients yields different results. An old paper I read mentioned the use of 6 to 8 thin layers to build an image. This is just a proof of concept, more experiments will follow soon.

Dear Habib, thanks for this interesting variation! Just to understand clearly: in this video you do mix a far smaller amount as the 400ml, am I right?

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Johannes, you are right, unlike the carbon transfer that uses around 8g of gelatin per an 8x10'' sheet, this method uses a tiny amount. The difference is in the final look and quality. We'll go over all methods in more depths in the coming videos.

Thank you for sharing this video. I have some questions. I made the similar solution following the guidelines of the article about chiba process, but it didn't work. I'm sure, that i made many mistakes on the way, not seeing the process. Could you please tell me if gelatine bloom 280 is ok? or it is better to use bloom 180? Do you add isopropylen or thymol to gelatine so it doesnt mold? Do you add alum to harden gelatine? When you coat the paper, the gelatine doesnt have to be warm, right? To achive ph4 citric acid would work well? Thank you once again for your video!

@saidanehabib

3 ай бұрын

You are very welcome. I am using gelatin 300 so 280 should be fine. Isopropyl and/or thymol are could for preventing mold, storing the gelatin in a cold place like a fridge is a good idea. I don't use a hardener. I warm the gelatin if it's not in a liquid form that is not easy to spread with a brush. I believe citric acid should work also.

hello, question from a pure novice; does a citrated gelatin emulsion, applied on glass, allow (on glass or resin) to obtain results comparable to a commercial emulsion (work tetenal...); good adhesion on glass or resin? Thanks in advance

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

Hi, I am not familiar with tetenal, however when glass is cleaned well the citrated gelatin gives beautiful results and sticks and hardens well on glass. Gelatin CHIBA works also on fabric, wood, etc..I'll add more videos in the future.

Hi, thank you for explaining this technique. Your results are amazing. It's close to the cyanotype i'm doing and i wanted to diversify colors. I tried the exact recipe but first results are unsatisfactory. Which type of gelatin are you using? I have a 280 bloom which is very strong, do i need to add more demineralised water?

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

Your gelatin should be fine, I use SuperClear Gelatin Powder - 300 Bloom Food Grade Gelatin that I got from Amazon. Are you using oxalic acid? did you measure the PH? What kind of paper are you using? What pigments or watercolor paint did you use? In any case do not mix a lot and use small pieces of paper till you get it right. Increase/decrease the PH or the exposure time and go from there. Go slow and we'll make it work, I am on facebook you can contact me there also. Good luck and let me know.

@laurentb5050

Жыл бұрын

@@saidanehabib Hi, thank you so much for your answer. I'm using citric acid, tested PH 4 and good paper (Canson XL 300 gr working well with Jacquard formula). Black pigment and watercolor extra from Sennelier , UV box DIY with 10 meters LED (2 min for a cyanotype) . I did a test today following your instruction and it's far from your beautiful pictures but it's going somewhere. With 1m30 UV, only the edges are sticking well exposed, meaning maybe where it's thiner and well dry and the center disappeared. I have 2 sheets prepared for 24h waiting the gelatin to dry completely to see. How long let you dry your coating before UV?

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

@@laurentb5050 it should dry in a couple of hours, you don't need to wait that long you can always use a hair dryer on medium for a minute or two as you can use the microwave for 10 seconds if the gelatin mix hardens, I'll make another video later. I am also using Canson paper, do you have access to oxalic acid? Are you located in the US? Hopefully we'll make it to work. Can you run a test strip starting from 1 min to lets say 10 mins with 2 mins steps? Are you sizing your paper? It worked with me with and without sizing. Let me know.

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

@@laurentb5050Also make sure that the peroxide solution is weak around 3/1000 (0,3% in Europe), it is possible for you to use distilled water?

Dear Habib, I have a couple of questions about the emulsion. Once you have prepared your sensitive emulsion, how long can it stay in the bottle (can it stay for a few days?) Does the bottle with emulsion have to be protected from room light? Do you dry emulsion-coated paper in a dark room? Thanks a lot for these helpful videos!

@saidanehabib

5 ай бұрын

Dear Gordana, The emulsion can stay in room temperature for a few days no problem. Store it away from the sunlight. A few drops of an essential oil can prevent mildew and make the shelf life longer. Storing the emulsion in an amber or dark container is a good idea. To store it for a very long time I use a container, mix the emulsion without adding any color and place it in the fridge or in the freezer using small cups the size of ice cubes . I scoop and warm up (usually 10 to 20 seconds at a time in a microwave) what I need each time and add the color I want to sensitize the medium I am working on. I usually hang my paper in a bathroom using fishing lines. I also use a hair dryer to speed up the drying process when I am in a hurry, it works well. My suggestion is to mix a small amount first and use small pieces of paper first for testing to make sure that everything works well before making bigger prints. Let me know if you have other questions and good luck.

@gordanahajinovic788

5 ай бұрын

@@saidanehabib Thank you so much, you are very kind.

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing. Have you tried to immerse the photo completely in 0.3% peroxide? If yes, why it didn't worked? Have you tried this CIBA process with Arabic gum?

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

My pleasure. Immersion in 0.3% peroxide works well, you can see it in the video "CHIBA Process Part 02". I haven't tried with gum because it requires an additional compound called persulphate that I don't have. Here's a formula from the net: Gum stock solution 1.75 g Gum Arabic 5 g water ～0 .59 Lamp Black Sensitizer solution A: 0.05 g AFC 2.5 g water Sensitizer solution B: 1g Am. Persulphate 2.5 g water Let me know if you have any questions.

@MsDanPavel

Жыл бұрын

@@saidanehabib Thanks for your answer. I have tested it (gelatin) on different papers and while it works it stains on most of them and white is never really white. What paper are you using? in your videos Liquid Hide seams to work better than gelatin in this regard. Is this the case?

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

@@MsDanPavel You are very welcome, feel free to ask as many question as you want. I use mainly Canson paper, I tried also Artist's Loft, Grumbacher, Artisto and other watercolor papers and they all worked. Titebond hide glue works great and is easy to develop in room temperature. Gelatin requires hot/warm water to develop and takes more time, I found out that it is better to spray water to remove the excess unexposed colored gelatin. I do get whites without staining, however if I over expose or when I put too much color in the mix stains will occur. I use watercolor paint from tubes and I premix my own lamp black with gum Arabic a little alcohol and a bit of honey. Do you use pigments? Are you exposing under the sun? If yes and if the emulsion before adding the paint is around PH 4 the exposure time should be less then a minute (around 45 seconds). From the tests I did, liquid hide glue and gelatin can deliver the same results. Hide glue is faster to develop in room temperature baths, on the other hand gelatin is more available but longer to develop since it requires a warm/hot bath to dissolve the excess gelatin which also in return gives more control over the developing process by controlling the temperature of the water and also more stability of the emulsion especially when working smooth surface media like glass. Greetings.

@MsDanPavel

Жыл бұрын

@@saidanehabib Thanks Habib for the details of the process. I've ordered some hide glue and some fish gelatin, as well as some fresh Ferric Ammonium Citrate to test again. I am using an UV exposure unit, Schmincke tube watercolors and Schmincke Aqua Drop liquid colors. Usually my gum prints need an exposure of 4-5 min. but the CHIBA gelatin prints needed 10-15 min. I have tried some gelatin-dichromate prints and the exposure was 40-50sec. That's why I suspect my Ferric Ammonium Citrate is not fresh enough. This could be the cause for the staining in the whites, as well.

Thank you so much! Have you already tried tartaric acid? I am asking because "Van Dyke printing" uses tartaric acid in addition to ferric ammonium citrate in its formulation. - Oxalic acid: pK S1/2 = 1.23 / 4.19 - Glutamic acid: pK S1 = 2.16 - Ascorbic acid: pK S = 4.25 - Malonic acid: pK S = 2.83 - Tartaric acid: pK S1/2 = 2.98 / 4.34 - Citric acid: pK S1/2/3 = 3.13 / 4.76 / 6.4 - Succinic acid: pK S1/2 = 4.16 / 5.61

@saidanehabib

Жыл бұрын

You are welcome, that's a good idea, I'll try it when I get some of that acid.

@mynona1425

Жыл бұрын

@@saidanehabib Thank you for your kind response. Much appreciated. I tried it a few hours ago. It works. For your emulsion recipe I used about 3.6 g tartaric acid. Warmed up the solution in a bain-marie. - Still have to do some tests. I love to cook, ... ahem, therefore I put a little bit of this and a little bit of that into the coating emulsion. E.g. honey for binding the pigments. But! Oh! The emulsion left the paper together with the pigments. Though I made the first tests with tempera ink. That perfectly worked! You explained all very well in your videos. Thanks again, Habib! When I tried Chiba-process in 2009 I only used ferric ammonium citrate , gum arabic and pigments. I got a very pale picture. Then after a while I gave up! I am so glad that I have found your tutorials.

Hi Habib thank you for your video, im trying to do chiba on glass, i got some promising results but fail at getting better, have you tried it and can you help me getting better results ? thank you

@saidanehabib

3 ай бұрын

You are very welcome. I did experiment on glass a couple of years ago and as you said the results are very promising. I need to go back and run more experiments to get consistent results and I will share all details. If I remember well, hide glue works better than gelatin, spraying peroxide was better than using a bath of peroxide. Here's a video I posted on facebook: facebook.com/reel/1176767062944894 My plan is to make videos using different mediums like glass, wood, and fabric. We'll keep in touch and hopefully we'll make colored prints on glass soon.

@LUNAIRErec

3 ай бұрын

@@saidanehabib Hi habib, i have tried your clear and hide glue chiba in order to use it on glass but its not terrrible, do you remember if u made some adjustment ? Thank you very much

@saidanehabib

3 ай бұрын

@@LUNAIRErec From what I remember, the emulsion was delicate and the results were kind of hit and miss. Some colors and inks work better than others I need to run more experiments and publish my findings soon I hope.

@LUNAIRErec

3 ай бұрын

@@saidanehabib Yeah i was afraid that you said that, i will keep you informed here, I hope we could achieve nice things soon too

@saidanehabib

3 ай бұрын

@@LUNAIRErec We should especially when the world becomes more peaceful. I am on facebook we can exchange ideas there also.

I tried your emulsion formula but used speedball ink instead of watercolour pigment from a tube. This resulted in the sedimentation of the ink instead of uniform dissolution. Can your formula not be used with liquid colóranos such as Speedball, Sumi, India’s ink?

@saidanehabib

Ай бұрын

India ink works well with chiba carbon transfer but not with regular chiba, it doesn't like an acidic environment I guess. Pigments, charcoal, and watercolor tubes not to include acrylic work well in the chiba system.

@johnjpenner8527

Ай бұрын

@@saidanehabib Thanks for your reply. I will try your formula with watercolor pigments or carbon.

@saidanehabib

Ай бұрын

@@johnjpenner8527 You're welcome, I usually mix my pigments like lamp black (I ordered some from the UK through ebay), or homemade charcoal and others with some isopropyl alcohol, gum Arabic and a bit of of honey using a mortal and pestle till I get a nice consistent thick paste. Watercolors straight from tubes work well. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

@johnjpenner8527

Ай бұрын

@@saidanehabib Thanks again for your suggestions regarding making my own pigment. I happen to have all those ingredients on hand so will give it a try.

@saidanehabib

Ай бұрын

@@johnjpenner8527 you're very welcome, I forgot to mention the use of distilled water with the mix to make the grinding easier. Once done and satisfied I usually store the paste into 35 mm film canisters and place some in the fridge for a very long time storage. Good luck.