Replacing vacuum pump seals - BMW N42/N46 Chain Rail Replacement [PART #7]
Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары
In this video series I diagnose and repair a broken chain rail guide and jumped chain on a BMW N42/N46 engine in an E46 3 Series car.
PART #7
0:00 Removing vacuum pump
3:26 Replacing back seal
6:24 Replacing front seal
7:22 Installing vacuum pump
Engine had reduced power and rattling noises after acceleration. Fuel consumption was also increased.
INPA software showed these error codes:
- 2782 CDKPH - Nockenwellengeber Auslass, Lage der Phasenflanken oder Einbaulage außerhalb Toleranz (2782 Camshaft Sensor Exhaust)
- 27BB CDKANWS Nockenwellensteuerung Auslass-VANOS, Anschlagadaption außerhalb gültigem Bereich (27BB Exhaust Camshaft Control)
INPA analog value 4 also showed that outlet VANOS unit position was incorrect.
I then removed the valve cover and found that top part of the chain rail guide was broken and the chain jumped two teeth on the exhaust camshaft.
This was most probably because of a combination of weak (still original) chain tensioner and old brittle plastic chain rail guide.
I then proceeded with putting the exhaust camshaft back in to correct position so I could lock the camshafts with the locking tools and remove VANOS bolts. That enabled me to remove VANOS units, VANOS solenoids and finally the broken chain rail guide. I also found the plastic guide was broken in two places and managed to get all the broken pieces out of the engine.
Next I installed new chain guide rail and did the timing. I also replaced the brake booster vacuum pump seals in the process.
Then I put everything back together and confirm the repair with scanning the car wit INPA again.
PARTS (required):
- VANOS bolts: 11367500574
- Chain guide rail: 11317512520
- Chain slide rail: 11317505608
PARTS (optional):
- Chain tensioner: 11318685091
- Seal kit for vacuum pump: 11668626471
- VALVETRONIC sensor connector gasket flange: 11377502022
- Valve cover gasket: 11120032224
TOOLS:
- N42/N46 Timing tool kit: cutt.ly/yhVmCJF
DISCLAIMER:
BimmerZen assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BimmerZen recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BimmerZen , no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BimmerZen.
Пікірлер: 33
This is one of the best videos. If you have a leaking o-ring on the vacuum pump it will slowly drain your oil pan. And it also is one of mystery leaks that no one can determine. It's even hard to see with a folded mirror. Also careful not to trash the threads of the bolts and get the right O-rings for replacement.
@thewarlordscalling6537
2 жыл бұрын
Nice video.What's the sizes of the o-rings,& that large 'square' ring?
fantastic video, well done! Doing this on my partners car in the weekend and this is great.
Great, clear vid. Thanks.
Great job. Thank you for sharing
Super video👍👍👍
Bravo Respekt ❤️👍😍
Thank yu very much ... my car was smoking due to oil leak from vacuum pump to exhaust ...
Your videos are great! They give me the confidence to go into a job with forward knowledge, almost like I've done it before. Also you are one of few that give in depth information on the N42 engine which I struggle to find any manual or information on. I note at the end you say to torque nuts to 9nm, is this the BMW spec? If so would you mind sharing where you get your info from as I also like to do things by the book but sadly I cannot find 'the book'. 😊
Sir please help me i attempted this process although my vacuum pump seems stuck to the motor now looking at your video, is see i might have to take the valve cover off in order to get a better angle to knock it or tap it out with some force, your input will be highly helpful please.
Useful to see the vacuum pump seal replacement, thanks. I had this on my old E46 and a similar issue now on my E90. What model of torque wrench did you use in the confined space to tighten the 3 bolts back on to the engine? Are the torque settings estimated or is there a source for this information? Thanks.
@BimmerZen
Жыл бұрын
I use standard 5 - 25Nm torque wrench, it's pretty cheap and common. The torque values are from the service manual.
Excellent video, but I have a question. How many often I need to change this ring? I mean it's necessary change this ring every manteinment?
@BimmerZen
Жыл бұрын
These seals usually only need to be replaced once every 10 years or so. I would recommend replacing it when replacing the valve cover gasket.
Thank you for the video. Do we need to drain oil prior removing the pump?
@BimmerZen
2 жыл бұрын
No.
@REESh
2 жыл бұрын
@@BimmerZen thank you. love your videos.
Is it possible that these seals if bad could cause stiff brake pedal or is it whole pump bad bc i didnt get any suction from end of hose that goes to that booster?
@einolouhimo
8 ай бұрын
It is common for the vane inside the pump to break as it is fragile plastic resulting in loss of vacuum and stiff brake pedal, worst case is the pump seizing up and breaking the end of the exhaust camshaft.
Do you recommend replacing the valve cover with an aluminium one? Thinking of doing it for my E92
@BimmerZen
11 ай бұрын
Sorry, I don't have any experience with aluminium valve covers...
Ive been told that oil has travelled along the vacuum hoe to the booster, creating problems in my booster. Why would this happen, would it be because the smaller of the seals is leaking. my larger seal on the plate outside is not leaking and i am not getting oil down on my exhaust etc
@BimmerZen
Жыл бұрын
The large seal seals the pump so it can create the vacuum for the brake booster. There is always some oil inside the vacuum pump for lubrication so it's normal to have a small amount of oil residue in the vacuum hose that goes to the booster. If the small seal is bad, then it's a good chance that the large outside seal is bad also... If the vacuum is decreased, it could mean more oil in the booster hose and weaker brake boosting. But I don't have any direct experience with your issue so I cant give you a definitive answer.
Hello Friend! I was done it seal replacement 2 time in lest 2 months, first time I was try with silicon to fit, secound without, it take a long for a one month and leaks again, in both try I have used Erling set of Rings. How is by you, how much it could be witout leaks after replacement?
@BimmerZen
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, are you sure that the vacuum pump seals are leaking? Sometimes it's the valve cover gasket. There are some sharp corners near the rear that need a small amount of silicone bead so that the valve cover gasket seals properly. If it leaks at the back, then the oil will pool at he bottom of the vacuum pump.
@zeljkoc5068
2 жыл бұрын
@@BimmerZen Ok! I will chek again...
Do you Need to timing the motor or you can just do this after the cover removed ?
@BimmerZen
Жыл бұрын
You dont need to ti.e the engine, you can even do this job without removing the valve cover, but's its easier when the cover is off.
Bad O rings on vacum pump could be a reason why is my brake pedal so hard, until i step on gas pedal?
@BimmerZen
Жыл бұрын
Could be, but so could be any vacuum leak on the brake booster line/assembly.
Damn I should of done this when I was doing the valve seals :/
Do not change the seals, there is also an internal seal that is bad and cannot be changed, also the new seals won't really last. It's much better if you buy a new one.
@BimmerZen
Жыл бұрын
I'll have to disagree with you there. What internal seal do you mean? There are only 2 seals and you can replace both, they should last another 5 years or so...