Amazing tutorial, I'm at this point right now since yesterday I had no more time for ending the job. My car was running very poorly and struggling under medium to hard acceleration (it hesitated to the point of even being slower when accelerating), tried everything i could think of: replaced camshaft and crankshaft sensors, ccv, MAF sensor, injector gaskets, fuel filter... still giving errors and running bad and with a horrendous rattle when climbing rpm on start up. I started this job just to find that apart from having the chaing guide rails broken (upper part same as yours and lower part broken by the lower passthrough bolt, not maintaining tension since the black right part was not attached to the left part and up against the block), but also the exhaust camshaft skipped a chain tooth and the impulse sending gear was missing a big chunk, where the golden timing part fits on it, but from there all to the right was missing (I hope it was an earlier crappy job done by previous owner or workshop who broke it but managed to take the metal chunk out...). Next oil change I am pulling the oil pan and searching for the chaing guide and impulse sending gear chunks... Just a few questions: I did more than 2 rotations while timing the engine, maybe 3 or 4 since I forgot to apply the special grease for the chain included in the INA chain guide kit, but even the rear locking tools locked properly, the impulse sending gears locking tool wasn't fittng well in the two gears, like 0.5 to 1 mm of difference between gears. Is this normal or acceptable? The car has almost 300k km maybe the chain is a bit stretched and has that play since i did the vanos bolts correctly (pre-tension the chain and 20nm + 180 degrees). Also when bolting the valve cover, since i replaced it with a brand new one, tightening some bolts to 10nm (all new from the new valve cover) made the rubber grommet to expand and deform to the point of almost escaping around the bolt so i released the pressure and thightened them by hand. Is acceptable? Apart from that, all that is left is to put the coils, attach the harness, rear firewall, air cabin filter and under plate. I hope it starts and runs well. I love my E46 compact but its giving me a hard time since i bought it. Anyway, I am very thankful for your videos, you are my reference when it comes to working on my N46 engine.

I started the engine after following this guide, and it runs very nicely. Your videos on this repair was very in depth and easy for a hobby mechanic such as myself to follow. Thanks a lot!!

Thanks for work videos.

Thank you so much. Please make videos about engine rebuild. You are brilliant.

Brilliant thanks for these videos, really are a massive help, Its a detailed video manual.better than the Haynes book. The n42 is a lovely engine,alot of people say it's underpowered but I think it's excellent 👌

Do you know if the valve cover from N46N will fit the N42 engine?

Hi there @BimmerZen! I just started the engine today after doing all this procedure thanks to your invaluable help, engine is like new, thanks a lot! However, now the car presents a rattle "diesel like" noise when exhaust Vanos solenoid is activated. I checked with the computer it does the sound when this unit works/is activated. At idle is butterly smooth, idle steady and perfect, no weird noises, is only when accelerating, when the exhaust Vanos should engage that it makes the noise (for instance, when accelerating it does not sound in all the rev range, I'd say it does when the exhaust vanos should actuate) Car runs like it should I think, but this is my first BMW, so I don't know. No error codes on the computer. Do you think cleaning/replacing the solenoid would solve the issue? I've read there are updated solenoids for this engine, like it happens to the chain tensioner. Or may I have to change the hole inside Vanos exhaust unit? If you have any insights/experience on this one it would be VERY helpful! Thanks in advance!! :)

@BimmerZen

3 жыл бұрын

Hi! My first suspision would be oil pressure issues with vanos solenoids. Did you change vanos solenoid orings? Maybe just check the orings and make sure they are not damaged. Also make sure both vanos solenoids are seated all the way in the block. Also try and switch solenoids and see what happens. Does the problem move to intake side? Let us know...

@juanarrisem

3 жыл бұрын

@@BimmerZen I just made some playing with the two vanos solenoids: 1.Get them out and cleaned 2.Put 12v on them and they work perfectly fine 3.Change intake solenoid with exhaust one. Still the same situation. I am now 99% sure it is the Vanos unit (inside-the-engine sprocket) which is faulty. May be some seals it has, or even the little bolts are not tight enough. I will open again the head cover and check. Hopefully is the unit and I can find one on ebay for 60€. New ones are around 300€. I'll update! Thanks!

@BimmerZen

3 жыл бұрын

@@juanarrisemok, did you check that seal on the vanos solenoids are good? I would also remove the valve cover and check if the vanos unit is locked in initial position

@juanarrisem

3 жыл бұрын

@@BimmerZen yes, seals are looking good, both, the bigger ones at the bottom and the little green ones at the midle of the solenids, but I have not replaced them yet. I don't think they are those seals since changing the solenids didn't change the Vanis unit affected. I've done some research and people with similar issues changed the unit and solved the problem. I'll keep commenting here with the results/decisions. Also in this engine the Vanis have no seals, they are a hole metal unit apparently. Maybe is just a clogged unit and needs to be cleaned. Anyway I'll comment in case this helps anyone in the same situation (diesel sound from Vanos activation) What do you mean by "initial position" on the unit?

@BimmerZen

3 жыл бұрын

@@juanarrisem ok, if you are sure that seals are OK and the solenoids work, then its something to do with vanos units. I am editing a video where i disassemble vanos and clean it. Maybe wait for a day for this video to drop and then decide if you want to open it up and check operation or to just get a new one...

No need to ziptie the gasket. The bolts are not supposed to be removed from the valve cover unless changing the valve cover gasket of course in which case you put the bolts back in the cover before installing the cover.

@BimmerZen

4 ай бұрын

You sir are technicaly correct... the best way of correct:D Thanks for pointing it out.

Was that just 10 newton metres spec for the valve cover bolts thanks Dan

@BimmerZen

Жыл бұрын

Yes, 10Nm. M6 to aluminium are almost always 10Nm.

@zzhughesd

Жыл бұрын

@@BimmerZen many thanks. Really useful. Wouldn’t have known this handy default

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