So the most important takeaways in this experiment are: 1) Even if you screw up and mount the sprue upside down, and your air vents in the mold end up pointing down, you can still salvage it by making air vents by hand with a project knife 2) All that nonsense about placing ice cream sticks inside of the mold to improve rigidity - for get it. Seems like the extra air vents are pretty much all that we need and for rigidity, you can use any rigid planks of wood on the outside of the mold.

"Wow! I love the wear and tear on your Broadside, man! How did you do that?" "Well..."

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

lmao, let's just say some cider made it's way into the engineering department. On the other hand, as authentic as it can get. to be honest. I would not in a million years would ever want to actually damage authentic miniatures with real holes and ripped off parts. That shit's too god damn expensive.

To help you out. Use a 3d Printing Pen instead of a hot glue gun to make air channels on your masters. You'll get much better control and precision. As a fellow smooth-brain to another, keep orienting your masters the way you are but build the reservoir you pour the resin into at the bottom of your mold. Use foam blocks at the bottom of said mold to act as the reservoir. Then, when pouring your resin, pour your resin into the reservoirs on most on the sides of the mold, allowing the air to escape up the middle until you finally see resin beginning to come up and out of the middle of the reservoirs. Rotate your mold from side to side to burp it. Lastly and most importantly. Use a slow curing resin, like an hour or longer. It'll pour into the mold easier, with less viscosity, and as it sets up you can come back and rotate the mold bottom to top, side to side, to get more resin into any last little areas before it fully cures.

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

Interesting method with reservoirs and pouring from the sides first. Going to give this a try during my following experiments. Much obliged for the wisdom.

@ricksanchez3204

Жыл бұрын

@@RebelWorkshop hes right it will also help if hold/pour if from higher up the key point being you want the stream as thin as possible this will also help to eliminate air from mixing.

I like your whole set-up, it looks like you're taking the time out of your job as a submarine engineer... Also, fine music selection, especially in part one.

Awesome video! Really interesting to get to see your mold making process and how you were able to still get a good cast despite the air vents accidentally pointing the wrong way. Keep it up!

I actually enjoy the really long videos you've been producing. It's refreshing to have something to focus on and includes the mistakes which we can learn from. Keep it up

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

Appreciate the kind words

Not sure if you're familiar with Robert Tolone (pretty sure that's how it's spelled) but he has great vids on casting. He has years of experience, might be able to gain some additional insight. Love the experimenting and long format, excellent work. Also, are the shades an aesthetic choice or for the lights? Either way, they're killer.

Jumped to 22:13 and thought you were freestyling. Fun experiment mate. Bravo!

Thanks for showing the misshaps. It maks me feel beter about my misshaps. :-) Good work mate.

Loved watching both the videos!

Man I just watched all your recasting videos today, really interesting stuff! Thanks for sharing your technique, both the successes and failures, I learned a lot from watching you. Personally, I just recast small parts with blue stuff, but I've always wondered about doing the whole sprue. I appreciate the time you put into learning this craft and sharing it with us on KZread, keep it up bro! You've absolutely earned my sub! :))

@RebelWorkshop

2 жыл бұрын

First of all, you've actually powered through nearly 3 hours of my casting videos, and that's alone deserves a medal. Thank you for taking a look. I really appreciate the positive support. I agree on usefulness of recasting small parts. For example with the Adeptus Mechanics Dune crawler, there are 3 or 4 primary weapon configurations but only 1 mounting barrel in a sprue. The way GW designed the Adeptus Mechanics Dune Crawler insert and twist-based weapon mount makes it phenomenally optimized for easily swapping weapon types without needing to involve magnets at all - just raw vanilla model facilitates easy weapon swapping.... that is it would have if they didn't only include 1 single mounting barrel piece which you attach your weapon to, whatever you decide, you're stuck with it. Now with recasting, I can re-produce 4 of those battel mounts and easily swap the guns without needing magnets. Although I can definitely see an argument that magnets is a much less involved solution being totally valid. Oh btw how did you manage to come across this video?

@finnon7460

2 жыл бұрын

@@RebelWorkshop Yeah man that exactly what I've duplicated in the past, really should just be included with the kit. Quite anti-consumer on GW's part. As for finding your channel, it was just recommended under another hobby video. Your 'Recasting an Adeptus....' thumbnail jumped out at me. I'd seen recasts before, but mostly of Forgeworld stuff, so I was really curious to see the process for recasting entire plastic kits. Your dunecrawler being bright white resin helped me spot the thumbnail. Personally, seeing 'recast' in the title, and a finished model in the thumbnail will get a click from me every time. I think the 'Recasting Broadside part 1' has a pretty weak thumbnail, but part 2 is really attractive, since I and many others aren't used to seeing sprues with that much flash, and in a different colour. You're a charismatic host and I found your videos enjoyable to watch. You're even adjusting the background music between segments which I appreciate. You cut between clips very well too, the progress montages are great. You've got personality, audio, and video nailed down really well. You might be able to cut the content down perhaps? Depends on how ruthless you want to be. That being said, I don't know what the ideal video length is, maybe ~20mins, no idea. Either way, you're making cool stuff and I'm happy your sharing it :)

@RebelWorkshop

2 жыл бұрын

Very Good point on the thumbnail. I might want to pick something more intriguing for part 1. Also video length wise too bothers me. Maybe I can be more strict on the amount of footage. There was also a lot of talking. One difference between part 1 and 2 is that the first part was almost entirely scripted so I can try and communicate the same ideas in fewer words. But at the same time the compilation video tool up more time there so maybe I could have used shorter cuts. It's what I try to do already, pick a short clip that clearly summarizes the gist of the action and chop up the entire build process from that. Second video was more improvised, I just basically winged it and inserted some comments here and there to dub afterwards. To be honest, I personally like the former as it leaves less work to do in post,

@finnon7460

2 жыл бұрын

That's a very fair point, I suppose it is a general workflow question. I'm impressed with how much thought you've put in to conveying these ideas and techniques. I suppose, keep experimenting and try to not lose your passion along the way. You're a broadly talented guy, so pairing persistence with your passion/interests is sure to bring an audience. I'm definitely interested in what you've produced, and what's yet to come. Keep it up man, I believe in you :)

@RebelWorkshop

2 жыл бұрын

@@finnon7460 Cheers. Appreciate the good vibes.

Really loved this! Its great seeing someones learning process documented - you learn from the mistakes as much as successes. Shame we never got part 3 but ive just noticed your more recent drone video so ive got to go watch that to complete the recast bingewatch!

@RebelWorkshop

7 ай бұрын

My recasting cravings are like Mariah Carey. It slumbers for nearly the whole year only to re-awakened at the first frost.

Actually prefer this so much over a 15 minutes video

Can’t wait to see more of your stuff!

Again, I learned a lot here!

Really good engineering.

Maybe using diy dust mesh filter intended for PC cases instead of popsicle sticks could make for an easier reinforcment wall to work with? Seems like it could be a nice strong yet somewhat flexible material for working with the silicone and liquid plastic

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

TBH my latter tests concluded that, as long as I have solid walls to press the two mold halves with from the outside, the inner reinforcement is not offering any tangible improvements in bubbles or film. Nevertheless, had to try to find out.

28:55 silicone will stick to other silicone so where you decided to leave the silicone stuck on the sprue, it is most likely where the new silicone bonded with the residual old that was on the sprue.

Put some jagged edges in Thame beginning of those cuts and it will help to line it up/close together hold I in place ie preventing mold slip also get some medical equipment like the stretcher things like the opposite of hemostats to hold it open while you cut.

Same here: What a mess... You should really think about doing something else than anything that requires a right and a left hand instead of two feet at the end of your arms.

I love the long form videos 😁

Thank you for showing your steps in detail. It's quite interesting to see, how different people approach it. Also the focus on sprues makes your video stick out, there aren't really many videos with this focus. It seems quite a lot of work, recasting is really another hobby in itself.

@RebelWorkshop

2 жыл бұрын

To be honest, if you get right down to it, all the work there is to it is still the same 3 steps as any other recasting video will have you do: 1) Maker a mold box 2) Pour the silicone 3) Demold It may just be all the commentary, thoughts and discoveries in these videos that make it seem like it's more than what it actually is. Seems like there was a lack content in this subject on YT in general and since I was already interested in experimenting with recasting for the heck of it, I might as well fill that void and make some videos.

@RebelWorkshop

2 жыл бұрын

Oh yeah and I'm planning my next video to be either recasting a piranha or un-shitifying a finecast model set like the Tau Sniper Drones

Just a suggestion. A massager that vibrates under the mold helps the plastic get into the harder to reach places.

@RebelWorkshop

9 ай бұрын

good idea Already got a dental vibration table for molds.

I'd be cutting the sprue into sections and doing smaller molds.

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

This indeed does make it easier. Easier to squeeze the bubbles and if something gets a bad cast, you don't need to recast the whole ass sprue

At least the poorly formed bits can be used as basing material, junk piles, and objective markers. It's okay they're not intact, because it's junk and rubble!

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

Indeed. Nothing lost.

So, I have ZERO recast experience aside from some blue stuff and milliput heads. But watching these two videos, has given me an idea. Though maybe it is bad. While I know this isnt an option for a lot(I have access to a CNC router). But would making an acrylic mold box that you can bolt together, seal, both help with reusing boxes for casting molds(of the same size obviously) as well as putting the mold back into the box, assist with the even distribution? Hopefully what I am trying to explain makes sense haha.

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

There is this particular mold box design that is basically the most tried and tested shape that I'm always referred to in the mold making circles. hackaday.com/2021/06/16/modular-box-design-eases-silicone-mold-making/ It's essential this Г shaped wall and when you have 4x of them, you can modularly build just about any mold box you wish to just by moving the clamps.

I wonder if it would be worth getting a vacuum chamber to really pull out any air bubbles during mold curing and the plastic setting 🤔

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

In cases like these, a pressure chamber is more suited than a vacuum chambers because a pressure chamber will force the bubbles to implode under immense pressure into a size so small, it will be imperceptible. Normally around 60psi is said to be more than enough. I have tried with 90psi and still had issues but I also used quick curing plastic. The vacuum chamber will just make the bubbles grow and if they're stuck inside a crevice of a silicone mold, they won't escape no matter how much you suck - "Woman's Guide to hunker down a husband circa 1986"

@sagesinclaire9923

Жыл бұрын

@@RebelWorkshop huh I didn't know that 😊 thanks

Try given the sprue a little soak in isopropyl alcohol before you give the mold release might help with your sticking problem

@RebelWorkshop

10 ай бұрын

That might be a good way too. hmm

Thx for this. I need some wood elves and im not about to pay 300$ for antique elf minis What do you think about leaving a marbel in there. Maybe glue it to the side. Then leave the marble in one of the halves so its always a good fit

@RebelWorkshop

10 ай бұрын

I'm not sure I'm catching you. What job would the marble serve?

@brandon8667

10 ай бұрын

@RebelWorkshop no idea lol. Guess my thought was ti make sure everything was lined up

@RebelWorkshop

10 ай бұрын

@@brandon8667 AAAH you mean like registration marks. yeah that makes sense.

Are there sections that would be easier to mold as a complete part, for example if you made a arm or leg and then made a mold of that, is it possible that they would cast easier than the separate components on a sprue

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

Oh for sure. less parts to recast. The goal of this experiment was to see if one can recast the sprue itself so that assembly could still be undertaken. If that wasn't the mission, one can pre-assemble a good number of parts right from the get go and have much less molding to deal with. To be honest, I might just try that next.

What's sad/funny is that, that happened because of those clamps lol I'm pretty sure you just put them on to tight.

Do you think cutting the sprue/ modifying it to be shorter would help with some bubble control? The downside is making more molds, but you'd have a shorter distance for air bubbles to travel up, right?

@Gamma5232

3 ай бұрын

Whoops! I didn't get to that part of the video yet. My bad!

@RebelWorkshop

3 ай бұрын

@@Gamma5232 The most recent experiment video, I've tried making 1 mold out of two sprues and the result is actually very manageable. I can definitely cut up a large mold into multiple smaller halves or even quarters and make a single mold containing all the sprue segments. This way if something casts poorly, I only need to recast that one segment instead of the whole damn sprue.

Using the infomation given here, maybe it's possable to create our own moulds in a 3D printer.

@RebelWorkshop

2 ай бұрын

Been down this thought pass myself too

I have a 3d printer but I do like the idea of 1 to 1 models especially since Cadian shock troops have changed in look and I hate the new helmets. I prefer the age old easy to paint chunky headed Cadians.

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

Indeed. Albeit there's a fine line. Is it really 1 to 1 when the bubbles make it look like it's riddled with birdshot haha. In my case, It works towards the theme for my army of being stranded on a desert planet trying to make due with what they got.

Hi there! Believe it or not, I actually have also thought about a method similar to this long before your videos were shown in my feed. However, I am limited to the supply available. Also, I have been really busy pursuing my career, hence the inability to complete my experiment. Here are some points I want to suggest: 1. Instead of using flimsy boards and wooden stick, try making a dedicated mold box. Imagine a hollow stainless steel box with an open hole (to stick the sprue to the base, just like yours) on one of its edge (similar to the mold boy you created), then slice them in half along its narrow edges. The halves are then sticked together with something like rubber bands to seal the resin, and then pull apart to reveal the silicone molds after you make them. Use the same box to make the mold _and_ to pour the resin. The beautiful part about it is, because it is made of stainless steel, it has strong opposing force against the rubber band (or in your case, c-clamp). Therefore, the mold is neither too squeezed nor too loose, ensuring the same dimension used in making the mold as the same dimension in the recasting process. This prevent the flashing you found in your videos. 2. Instead of pouring the resin from a narrow pouring channel like you did, consider using the squish mold method (watch Robert Tolone's video). In summary, basically you spread open the molds, and then pour the resin on theopen molds. Pour on both mold parts, then stick them together inside the mold box mentioned earlier. This ensures easier resin channeling AND not requiring you to make additional vents as the gas can be easily push out when the surface area is bigger. 3. Use transparent platinum silicone to make a stronger, more durable, and easily cut (as you can easily see the mold as you cut) mold. 4. As you are making the mold and recasting, use a vacuum chamber and a pressure pot, respectively. Use the vacuum chamber right after you pour in the silicone, ensuring your mold to follow the patterns on your sprue down to the last minute detail, whereas the pressure pot reduce the number of the bubbles when the resin is cast. That's all. Please tell me if you decide to trying this method! I am curious whether my engineering knowledge is enough to overcome this hurdle xD

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

My pressure chamber is not big enough for a whole sprue mold. However if I cut it up into several parts it just might be. With the pandemic raw materials are becoming quite expensive so perhaps instead of steel / iron or aluminum, I could use a thick piece of plywood or fiberboard.

@Starexe97

Жыл бұрын

@@RebelWorkshop IKR! I live in Indonesia, manufacturing third world country. Yet, the custom pressure pot and vacuum chamber (2 in 1) from stainless cost USD 2000 upward. Now I am thinking of making a kickstarter 🤣

You know you can also go in and prefill in the little tiny hard to get details you go and pour a Little plastic resin in low spots let it cure and then pour your main pour

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

That is another genius move. Will definitely look into trying that

Do you think you could do a ironstrider? It’s got to be the worst priced 40k model (if not one of the worst) and I’m wondering if all the small spindlely bits on it would make it too difficult to recast?

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

As a matter of fact, already got one sittin on the "stuff to try recasting" shelf

@buckarooben7635

Жыл бұрын

@@RebelWorkshop Nice

Hey, I was just wondering if you have made any progress with the mold-making process. I'm trying to do something very similar because Warhammer is VERY Expensive! OHH, and keep up the good work, you are really helping the Poorhammer community! Thank you!

@RebelWorkshop

Жыл бұрын

My current item on the to-do list is to recast (or unshittify) fine-cast models. Got a new pack of Tau Sniper Drones just for the video and everything, just planning an opening to record and edit the process.

Buddy it's an interesting experiment but there's no need to cast the whole sprue - it's just not made for hand casting. You could also just do like, thirds of the sprue. But as a fellow caster I love seeing the work put into this!

@RebelWorkshop

8 ай бұрын

It's definitely an additional plastic and mold cost. I was more hoping to see if I can just do an all-in-one go recast. One Spue - Everything at once. Plus the part numbers were also kept intact for assembly

Honestly, it is better to cut the sprue and do multiple smaller castings rather than the entire large sprue. Another method, although extremely tedious and time consuming would be to cut each piece and cast them individually as well. Also please get a pressure pot and vacuum chamber.

@RebelWorkshop

6 ай бұрын

Cutting up definitely makes it so much simpler. Way easier to handle and any defects doesn't mean that you gotta now recast the whole ass sprue. Just the segment that has the failure. I did try recasting individual bits out of the sprue but honestly the amount of work was about the same. I also like to keep the parts in the sprue because the sprue has the part numbers so assembling to the guide is a touch easier. I am also adamant at recasting the whole sprue because - if I'm successful. Making a new copy is as simple as pour-wait-pull and that's it. Have both pressure pot and vacuum chamber. On that note - My most recent attempt had very, near perfect result without the use of either. It's just a matter of prep technique and patience. Video coming.

This is a painful fiasco - it’s as if you never researched anything about moulding as casting. There is so much GOOD info online (especially KZread) on how to do this correctly. There is nothing or anything to learn from here, people. Just don’t do it this way. And you don’t have to do the whole sprue, the runners - everything. A huge waste of resin. You need to pressure cast this. Use a resin with a longer cure time so you have more time to pour. Your mould is too thin. Mould and cast the runners of the sprue?! The entire sprue?! This is a huge comedy of errors that no-one can learn from. Please, anyone, look elsewhere if you want to learn. This is all the wrong way.

@RebelWorkshop

9 ай бұрын

You're absolutely correct. There's a plethora of information available and if you're looking to do it, and want to minimize wasted product from failed casts, you should do your research. In my case, I just wanted to go balls deep and try it out. See what I can make of it. There were also some conditions I had imposed on myself for recasting these: First I wanted to see if I can make recasting as instant as possible. So recasting the whole sprue means to make a new one, all I have to do is pull a mold, apply release, pour and done. Yes that causes unnecessary plastic product waste but it maintains. No pressure pot or vacuum chamber. Same reason. Seeing if I can pull it off without additional steps. Positioning the sprue vertically had eliminated nearly all of the "This is all the wrong way." - There's value in seeing how not to do something. Saves other people on time and resources. I've taken the hit for everyone else.