Damm this makes me think that I don't have enough silicone to make molds.
@thatScoutdog19 күн бұрын
Are you alive?
@RebelWorkshop19 күн бұрын
Yeppers. Still kicking. hehe
@cartoriusАй бұрын
Kinda old, but you could make the mold and put it in a pressure cooker to get the bubbles out
@Ferret488Ай бұрын
Hello. I know this video is 4 years old. I believe they fixed the problem. I bought the W5100 Shield for my Arduino Mega 2560. I am using the K3NG Rotator Controller program to make a Ham Radio Antenna Rotator. K3NG spent a lot of time as well as others on this program and my hat is off to him. However, I have spent a lot of time fixing LCD display bugs. He never finished the coding for an LCD display with I2C. I finally got that fixed. However, I bought one of those HD44780 LCD display boards with the pushbuttons for control. I thought that would be a really nice, self-contained package. After figuring out the pinout to the Arduino I changed the code and it works. However, before I added the new shield, I had it running with PSTRotator over Ethernet using the W5100 shield and the I2C LCD with no errors. When I stack the new shield and load it, the display works, but now I cannot connect with the Ethernet. When I puill the LCD shield off and revert to I2C, the Ethernet starts working fine again. The original code used a 4-bit HD44780 display and all I had to do was assign the correct pinout for the LCD shield as it is also 4-bit parallel. I beleive there is a pin collision occuring and I thought I read about it, Bit I can't find it again. I think it had to do with A0, but not sure. Another operator changed the Analog input for the Position Potentiometer to A5 to avoid issues with the W5100 shield. Any help is appreciated. 73
@benjamingamache6441Ай бұрын
I think I'd use UHU glue in place of the glue gun for ventilation, granted you'd have to wait a bit longer for it to dry, I just think you'd have better control.
@katreyu2967Ай бұрын
Could you use a suringe to draw out the air or to push the reasin into the mold like a fishing bait
@RebelWorkshopАй бұрын
Hypothetically yes. Practically however... Hmmm
@sanernesАй бұрын
Did you tried linseed putty/oil putty some Japanese mold makers use it.
@AverageIrishDudeАй бұрын
After GW getting rid of a lot of old kits and me manging to get a lot I want to recast them and have a infinite supply. How should I get into recasting?
@AverageIrishDudeАй бұрын
I want to make some recast eternals
@RebelWorkshopАй бұрын
My method is to get some silicone rubber, like 29NV which cures in 6 hours or 14NV which occurs in 4 hours. I personally recast the whole screw because it already comes with a bunch of air vents, but placing additional air vents is required on any part where you can predict an air bubble getting stuck.
@RebelWorkshopАй бұрын
I recommend watching quite a few videos on how all the people do it as well and then trying something for yourself. You can find small you can find small silicone kits from smooth on for about 40 to 50 bucks
@christinekellylouisehaylet37242 ай бұрын
Using the infomation given here, maybe it's possable to create our own moulds in a 3D printer.
@RebelWorkshopАй бұрын
Been down this thought pass myself too
@mattdetering71002 ай бұрын
The Yellow jug had a big gap in the lid like if it was broken
@RebelWorkshop2 ай бұрын
Yeah after you open and close it a bunch, it develops a crust that makes it exceedingly difficult to open, to the point prying is needed.
@jean-simondesjardins28192 ай бұрын
As a mould structure replacement, shims would probably do the trick and they'd be far, far cheaper than popsicle sticks. Might even be able to get them free at some places.
@RebelWorkshop2 ай бұрын
Yep, Shima could work, albeit after this experiment is like to minimize the amount of time consuming happiness so I think a 3d printed mesh or perforated plate will be more suitable.
@Gamma52322 ай бұрын
Do you think cutting the sprue/ modifying it to be shorter would help with some bubble control? The downside is making more molds, but you'd have a shorter distance for air bubbles to travel up, right?
@Gamma52322 ай бұрын
Whoops! I didn't get to that part of the video yet. My bad!
@RebelWorkshop2 ай бұрын
@@Gamma5232 The most recent experiment video, I've tried making 1 mold out of two sprues and the result is actually very manageable. I can definitely cut up a large mold into multiple smaller halves or even quarters and make a single mold containing all the sprue segments. This way if something casts poorly, I only need to recast that one segment instead of the whole damn sprue.
@cutfromstone7543 ай бұрын
New to the channel. Instantly subscribed. I loved the music. Greetings from Cali 🤙🏾
@P_for_plutonic3 ай бұрын
Source on those sunglasses?
@RebelWorkshop3 ай бұрын
Ebay... bout 12 years ago
@KairuAkumaru3 ай бұрын
Yow really like ur experimen will replicate on my nighhaunt kits Too expensive warhammer porduct these days smh
@user-og5rk5lt1s3 ай бұрын
it's so much easier to cut vents in a mold after you make your mold. just make a 2 piece mold.
@RebelWorkshop2 ай бұрын
Honestly I think opposite. The sprues already have most of the vents needed and just needs a bit more. When I cut out the parts to make a two part mold, I need to re-create all the vents that were there from the sprue, plus add any additional ones.
@user-og5rk5lt1s2 ай бұрын
@@RebelWorkshop I suppose but with a two piece mold if you're throwing a lot of bad casts on a part you can make adjustments to it later. You also control the parting line very precisely. It does take a lot longer and I admit for a lot of cases, it's overkill and too much work.
@xephorce3 ай бұрын
this is better then Forge World quality.
@RebelWorkshop2 ай бұрын
Lol no doubt
@alexm82263 ай бұрын
with those eyeglasses you look like a mad scientist, love it
@neileyre60193 ай бұрын
A vacuum chamber will be a great investment…for both your Moulding and casting.
@TheDanteBoots4 ай бұрын
No joke this is the way. I just spent $500 on forge world recasts from Al*Expr*ss that are worth over $1500 and they're identical.
@joeycrosby1674 ай бұрын
I'm just getting into warhammer and two armies I'd like to do are death guard and t'au, and for both I could see myself doing a lot of recast for plauge marines among other things How much do you recommend smooth on products? Also I've seen a lot of people who use epoxy resin so why the liquid plastic? Any particular advantages other than (I assume) needing to worry about fumes from resin?
@RebelWorkshop4 ай бұрын
I've also used epoxy resin. It works just well to be honest. Cost wise a two part resin jug like table resin will cost as much as the equivalent one of smooth on so I tend to just stick to smooth-on as I'll be buying it from the same place as silicone anyways. Fumes are a factor on both ends. epoxy resin does take longer to cure however. 24-48 h while smooth-cast liquid plastic cures in 15 to 30 minutes or an hour depending on which product number you get
@jammywesty914 ай бұрын
Jumped to 22:13 and thought you were freestyling. Fun experiment mate. Bravo!
@BlueChell.5 ай бұрын
There is a youtuber named Robert Tolone that I think would help with your research
@RebelWorkshop5 ай бұрын
oh nice. Thank you. Will check him out.
@yosoyspider94205 ай бұрын
Interesting series but dont you think you wasted time ramaking the sprue layout?
@RebelWorkshop5 ай бұрын
It's a trade. I would argue that including the sprue saves time as it provides existing structure and air vents. It just needs a little bit extra air flow with a few additional vents to work fully. It does cost more plastic but I don't call it waste since my argument is that it serves a purpose. Plus the numbers on the sprue for parts help to assemble.
@zanefrag82695 ай бұрын
Do you sell any of these
@RebelWorkshop5 ай бұрын
Nope. Both the molds and the recasts are solely and exclusively for my own personal amusement.
@zanefrag82695 ай бұрын
@@RebelWorkshop you do fantastic work
@kikomaradona5 ай бұрын
So the best way I've made molds from sprues is horizontally, not vertically. This guarantees that the two flat surfaces of the mold that are most critical are perfectly flat and parallel. I suspend the sprue in the mold cavity with clay pillars and then after the silicone is set I remove them and fill em in. Its more like clay pyramids but you get the idea 🙂 Also Ive found that a vacuum chamber to de-bubble the silicone before I pour it (and pouring in one corner only and letting it fill slowly) is the best way to make perfect, dense, bubble free molds. I then use a compression chamber (paint gun pressure pot or sometimes called a paint tank) to make the plastic sprues. I pour the plastic into the mold and then immediately place the whole thing in the compression and have it at 60PSI this makes any bubbles that are in the plastic shrink until they dissolve and I'm left with a perfect bubble free recast!
@RebelWorkshop5 ай бұрын
Yep, that's another valid approach. I try not to over complicate things with extra equipment even though I do have those vacuum chambers and pressure pots
@the_arcanum28 күн бұрын
Stop making sense ! We're here for the entertainment value !!! 😈
@zanefrag82695 ай бұрын
That pretty good
@RebelWorkshop5 ай бұрын
I've been slowly discovering more and more little tricks and improvements I can employ
@submechanophobia7685 ай бұрын
Hahà Rupes. Thats about it.
@ehbiscuit5 ай бұрын
28:55 silicone will stick to other silicone so where you decided to leave the silicone stuck on the sprue, it is most likely where the new silicone bonded with the residual old that was on the sprue.
@NoNameIsBest896 ай бұрын
My dudes. This is how ive been recasting for a year now. Tiny spots of hot glue to attach toothpicks, mini coffee straws, skewers etc to make vents and sprues and then once my molds are made (blue stuff or silicone) I inject resin into the cavity to force as much air out as possible. I dont do resin pours anymore since it usually doesnt force the air out as much as injection. The other way is inject/pour resin in but dont fill the mold. You then turn the mold all around to coat the interior with resin which makes it easier to force out air and have cleaner copies. You then fill the molds and put them in a pressure pot under 30-40 PSI.
@alexcross65695 ай бұрын
Hello. Could you take a video of the process?
@NoNameIsBest895 ай бұрын
@@alexcross6569 I think I can put something together. Not sure when it would be done but I can let you know when
@alexcross65695 ай бұрын
Thank you very much. I will be glad if you succeed.@@NoNameIsBest89
@NoNameIsBest894 ай бұрын
@@alexcross6569 It is done. Took me a bit, its janky as hell but I think it might do the trick. If not well, I'll see what I can do. kzread.info/dash/bejne/gH-K07yGdrOro5c.htmlsi=wRTAaXLBkNP-zxD4
@swakage13x6 ай бұрын
Yeah I personally prefer Making molds in Two parts with registration marks and making the channels with chopsticks and toothpicks pressed into Play-dogh.
@VikingFireProject6 ай бұрын
Dudes... I'm in the GTA, what is this ass-hole chocolate place called!?
@RebelWorkshop6 ай бұрын
I swear by the name of the kraken, if you bastards keep subscribing to this channel instead of the @RetroActiveGamers one, I'll find yall addressees and ship a recast of my butthole to each and every god damn one of you !
@RetroActiveGamers6 ай бұрын
Don't threaten them with a good time.
@moose61546 ай бұрын
good to know youre alright dude, its been a while.
@RebelWorkshop6 ай бұрын
My thirst for experiments is like Mariah Carie. It lays dormant all year round only to reawaken from deep slumber around winter time. This time I managed to drag my buddy into it. Figured I'd help promote our gaming channel.
@moose61546 ай бұрын
@@RebelWorkshop same i tried recasting 7th edition vampire counts zombies, it was july and i got tired of sticking to furniture and gave it up. Shame too since I think it would have worked quite well
@RebelWorkshop6 ай бұрын
@@moose6154 I did discover some new interesting improvements in this one that would allow me to consolidate how many molds I have to use as well as reclaim some of the lost casts so the general trend on improvement is going up. Still not using vacuum chambers or pressure pots to boot.
@moose61546 ай бұрын
@@RebelWorkshop doing the lords work dude, recasts are necessary to play, fuck £40 for a squad of chaos marines (shudder to think what the us markup is). Also I think you can develop a substantial viewer base from poorhammer fans. Real demographics that get ignored in tik tok lore videos, when all they want to do is take part.
@RebelWorkshop6 ай бұрын
Ahoy, me Mateys! Part 2: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aoBr0JehgtPVYs4.html Released on our second channel that needs way more attention: www.youtube.com/@RetroActiveGamers This is about 10 hours of recasting work boiled down to just a couple of hours.
@rexdanger63056 ай бұрын
Waiting for it to render in HD then imma watch. Cant wait!🏴☠
@RebelWorkshop6 ай бұрын
Dang It shoulda given it time to process. In a meantime, help us get our joint channel out of the abyss of algorithmic void! : www.youtube.com/@RetroActiveGamers
@Enojadoland6 ай бұрын
Honestly, it is better to cut the sprue and do multiple smaller castings rather than the entire large sprue. Another method, although extremely tedious and time consuming would be to cut each piece and cast them individually as well. Also please get a pressure pot and vacuum chamber.
@RebelWorkshop6 ай бұрын
Cutting up definitely makes it so much simpler. Way easier to handle and any defects doesn't mean that you gotta now recast the whole ass sprue. Just the segment that has the failure. I did try recasting individual bits out of the sprue but honestly the amount of work was about the same. I also like to keep the parts in the sprue because the sprue has the part numbers so assembling to the guide is a touch easier. I am also adamant at recasting the whole sprue because - if I'm successful. Making a new copy is as simple as pour-wait-pull and that's it. Have both pressure pot and vacuum chamber. On that note - My most recent attempt had very, near perfect result without the use of either. It's just a matter of prep technique and patience. Video coming.
@matthewt.goodness71966 ай бұрын
Wire mesh I think would work well and the mold would work through it. Great video man! 🤙
@fybso30577 ай бұрын
Actually prefer this so much over a 15 minutes video
@fybso30577 ай бұрын
Loved watching both the videos!
@totallycarbon21067 ай бұрын
Really loved this! Its great seeing someones learning process documented - you learn from the mistakes as much as successes. Shame we never got part 3 but ive just noticed your more recent drone video so ive got to go watch that to complete the recast bingewatch!
@RebelWorkshop7 ай бұрын
My recasting cravings are like Mariah Carey. It slumbers for nearly the whole year only to re-awakened at the first frost.
@_lime.7 ай бұрын
I have an interesting idea. Try using a large syringe to fill the mold from the bottom up. Keep it oriented as you have it now, but add a short length of tubing sticking out the bottom. Dump the casting resin into a large syringe, put the plunger in, and force the resin into the mold from the bottom. This way as it pushes up through the mold, under pressure from the syringe, it will force all the air out the top. As long as you have vents to ensure no undercuts trap bubbles, this should result in a completely bubble free casting.
@RebelWorkshop7 ай бұрын
You know if there was such a thing as a transparent silicone, One could use a syringe with a large nizzle to fill in any bubbly areas post-cure
@_lime.7 ай бұрын
@@RebelWorkshop Not sure what you mean, I was talking about something like this kzread.info/dash/bejne/mYumtZKEqrXPpto.html
@RebelWorkshop7 ай бұрын
Right right. I was thinking more about using transparent resin so you can see the faults and fill them in with a needle and syringe before popping it open
@nigelboisclair35537 ай бұрын
This guy paid by gamesworkshop you wanna recast ur minis use a clay cast its not that hard. (Spoiler) no success shown.
@RebelWorkshop7 ай бұрын
Lmao. If Games Workshop paid me, they'd do it in Melee Weapons for Tau units. Also tf you mean no success shown? I'd say that's a pretty good yield despite the janky experiment.
@LeeHughesPhotosthings7 ай бұрын
Hot glue loves to re-melt hot glue, great video, love the presentation and the as it happens approach.
@pittspawn99677 ай бұрын
I’d suggest pegboard for the re enforcement.
@RebelWorkshop7 ай бұрын
Another great suggestion. I reckon it's something I can 3D print myself too if anything.
@Regey757 ай бұрын
Have you considered using these larger molds for the bigger pieces, And just using BLUE STUFF, to make molds and stuffing them with GREEN STUFF. for the smaller bits?
@RebelWorkshop7 ай бұрын
I have, the current padding doesn't leave much to clamp with. But I have not really looked at Blue or green stuff. I think when I did, I considered it to be too expensive for my sort of experimentation volume.
@wewya.2 ай бұрын
@@RebelWorkshopI can side with blue stuff, seems expensive but it's infinitely reusable. And it's just so useful for remaking those littlleeee parts
@rileywilliams25927 ай бұрын
Weigh the originals, room temperature is going to affect cure times. And from casting in silver 2 parts molds are far superior in my opinion. Keep up the good work!
@Isolated.Outpost7 ай бұрын
Buddy it's an interesting experiment but there's no need to cast the whole sprue - it's just not made for hand casting. You could also just do like, thirds of the sprue. But as a fellow caster I love seeing the work put into this!
@RebelWorkshop7 ай бұрын
It's definitely an additional plastic and mold cost. I was more hoping to see if I can just do an all-in-one go recast. One Spue - Everything at once. Plus the part numbers were also kept intact for assembly
@Philographicks7 ай бұрын
Can’t wait to see more of your stuff!
@ericgruben29668 ай бұрын
For support walls. I wounder how a wire mesh would work, similar to concert? it would allow the silicone to flow around and through. but give some flex if needed.
@RebelWorkshop8 ай бұрын
So the whole point of the reinforcement is to keep the mold more structurally firm. Less flappy. And in hindsight... ice-cream sticks... Jesus.. what was I thinking?. I realized later that I could have actually just printed a perforated solid plastic wall on a 3D printer. Wire mesh might be still too bendable / rigid. I mean I've been making half molds even without any wire mesh in the first place. I might just try that next.
Пікірлер
Damm this makes me think that I don't have enough silicone to make molds.
Are you alive?
Yeppers. Still kicking. hehe
Kinda old, but you could make the mold and put it in a pressure cooker to get the bubbles out
Hello. I know this video is 4 years old. I believe they fixed the problem. I bought the W5100 Shield for my Arduino Mega 2560. I am using the K3NG Rotator Controller program to make a Ham Radio Antenna Rotator. K3NG spent a lot of time as well as others on this program and my hat is off to him. However, I have spent a lot of time fixing LCD display bugs. He never finished the coding for an LCD display with I2C. I finally got that fixed. However, I bought one of those HD44780 LCD display boards with the pushbuttons for control. I thought that would be a really nice, self-contained package. After figuring out the pinout to the Arduino I changed the code and it works. However, before I added the new shield, I had it running with PSTRotator over Ethernet using the W5100 shield and the I2C LCD with no errors. When I stack the new shield and load it, the display works, but now I cannot connect with the Ethernet. When I puill the LCD shield off and revert to I2C, the Ethernet starts working fine again. The original code used a 4-bit HD44780 display and all I had to do was assign the correct pinout for the LCD shield as it is also 4-bit parallel. I beleive there is a pin collision occuring and I thought I read about it, Bit I can't find it again. I think it had to do with A0, but not sure. Another operator changed the Analog input for the Position Potentiometer to A5 to avoid issues with the W5100 shield. Any help is appreciated. 73
I think I'd use UHU glue in place of the glue gun for ventilation, granted you'd have to wait a bit longer for it to dry, I just think you'd have better control.
Could you use a suringe to draw out the air or to push the reasin into the mold like a fishing bait
Hypothetically yes. Practically however... Hmmm
Did you tried linseed putty/oil putty some Japanese mold makers use it.
After GW getting rid of a lot of old kits and me manging to get a lot I want to recast them and have a infinite supply. How should I get into recasting?
I want to make some recast eternals
My method is to get some silicone rubber, like 29NV which cures in 6 hours or 14NV which occurs in 4 hours. I personally recast the whole screw because it already comes with a bunch of air vents, but placing additional air vents is required on any part where you can predict an air bubble getting stuck.
I recommend watching quite a few videos on how all the people do it as well and then trying something for yourself. You can find small you can find small silicone kits from smooth on for about 40 to 50 bucks
Using the infomation given here, maybe it's possable to create our own moulds in a 3D printer.
Been down this thought pass myself too
The Yellow jug had a big gap in the lid like if it was broken
Yeah after you open and close it a bunch, it develops a crust that makes it exceedingly difficult to open, to the point prying is needed.
As a mould structure replacement, shims would probably do the trick and they'd be far, far cheaper than popsicle sticks. Might even be able to get them free at some places.
Yep, Shima could work, albeit after this experiment is like to minimize the amount of time consuming happiness so I think a 3d printed mesh or perforated plate will be more suitable.
Do you think cutting the sprue/ modifying it to be shorter would help with some bubble control? The downside is making more molds, but you'd have a shorter distance for air bubbles to travel up, right?
Whoops! I didn't get to that part of the video yet. My bad!
@@Gamma5232 The most recent experiment video, I've tried making 1 mold out of two sprues and the result is actually very manageable. I can definitely cut up a large mold into multiple smaller halves or even quarters and make a single mold containing all the sprue segments. This way if something casts poorly, I only need to recast that one segment instead of the whole damn sprue.
New to the channel. Instantly subscribed. I loved the music. Greetings from Cali 🤙🏾
Source on those sunglasses?
Ebay... bout 12 years ago
Yow really like ur experimen will replicate on my nighhaunt kits Too expensive warhammer porduct these days smh
it's so much easier to cut vents in a mold after you make your mold. just make a 2 piece mold.
Honestly I think opposite. The sprues already have most of the vents needed and just needs a bit more. When I cut out the parts to make a two part mold, I need to re-create all the vents that were there from the sprue, plus add any additional ones.
@@RebelWorkshop I suppose but with a two piece mold if you're throwing a lot of bad casts on a part you can make adjustments to it later. You also control the parting line very precisely. It does take a lot longer and I admit for a lot of cases, it's overkill and too much work.
this is better then Forge World quality.
Lol no doubt
with those eyeglasses you look like a mad scientist, love it
A vacuum chamber will be a great investment…for both your Moulding and casting.
No joke this is the way. I just spent $500 on forge world recasts from Al*Expr*ss that are worth over $1500 and they're identical.
I'm just getting into warhammer and two armies I'd like to do are death guard and t'au, and for both I could see myself doing a lot of recast for plauge marines among other things How much do you recommend smooth on products? Also I've seen a lot of people who use epoxy resin so why the liquid plastic? Any particular advantages other than (I assume) needing to worry about fumes from resin?
I've also used epoxy resin. It works just well to be honest. Cost wise a two part resin jug like table resin will cost as much as the equivalent one of smooth on so I tend to just stick to smooth-on as I'll be buying it from the same place as silicone anyways. Fumes are a factor on both ends. epoxy resin does take longer to cure however. 24-48 h while smooth-cast liquid plastic cures in 15 to 30 minutes or an hour depending on which product number you get
Jumped to 22:13 and thought you were freestyling. Fun experiment mate. Bravo!
There is a youtuber named Robert Tolone that I think would help with your research
oh nice. Thank you. Will check him out.
Interesting series but dont you think you wasted time ramaking the sprue layout?
It's a trade. I would argue that including the sprue saves time as it provides existing structure and air vents. It just needs a little bit extra air flow with a few additional vents to work fully. It does cost more plastic but I don't call it waste since my argument is that it serves a purpose. Plus the numbers on the sprue for parts help to assemble.
Do you sell any of these
Nope. Both the molds and the recasts are solely and exclusively for my own personal amusement.
@@RebelWorkshop you do fantastic work
So the best way I've made molds from sprues is horizontally, not vertically. This guarantees that the two flat surfaces of the mold that are most critical are perfectly flat and parallel. I suspend the sprue in the mold cavity with clay pillars and then after the silicone is set I remove them and fill em in. Its more like clay pyramids but you get the idea 🙂 Also Ive found that a vacuum chamber to de-bubble the silicone before I pour it (and pouring in one corner only and letting it fill slowly) is the best way to make perfect, dense, bubble free molds. I then use a compression chamber (paint gun pressure pot or sometimes called a paint tank) to make the plastic sprues. I pour the plastic into the mold and then immediately place the whole thing in the compression and have it at 60PSI this makes any bubbles that are in the plastic shrink until they dissolve and I'm left with a perfect bubble free recast!
Yep, that's another valid approach. I try not to over complicate things with extra equipment even though I do have those vacuum chambers and pressure pots
Stop making sense ! We're here for the entertainment value !!! 😈
That pretty good
I've been slowly discovering more and more little tricks and improvements I can employ
Hahà Rupes. Thats about it.
28:55 silicone will stick to other silicone so where you decided to leave the silicone stuck on the sprue, it is most likely where the new silicone bonded with the residual old that was on the sprue.
My dudes. This is how ive been recasting for a year now. Tiny spots of hot glue to attach toothpicks, mini coffee straws, skewers etc to make vents and sprues and then once my molds are made (blue stuff or silicone) I inject resin into the cavity to force as much air out as possible. I dont do resin pours anymore since it usually doesnt force the air out as much as injection. The other way is inject/pour resin in but dont fill the mold. You then turn the mold all around to coat the interior with resin which makes it easier to force out air and have cleaner copies. You then fill the molds and put them in a pressure pot under 30-40 PSI.
Hello. Could you take a video of the process?
@@alexcross6569 I think I can put something together. Not sure when it would be done but I can let you know when
Thank you very much. I will be glad if you succeed.@@NoNameIsBest89
@@alexcross6569 It is done. Took me a bit, its janky as hell but I think it might do the trick. If not well, I'll see what I can do. kzread.info/dash/bejne/gH-K07yGdrOro5c.htmlsi=wRTAaXLBkNP-zxD4
Yeah I personally prefer Making molds in Two parts with registration marks and making the channels with chopsticks and toothpicks pressed into Play-dogh.
Dudes... I'm in the GTA, what is this ass-hole chocolate place called!?
I swear by the name of the kraken, if you bastards keep subscribing to this channel instead of the @RetroActiveGamers one, I'll find yall addressees and ship a recast of my butthole to each and every god damn one of you !
Don't threaten them with a good time.
good to know youre alright dude, its been a while.
My thirst for experiments is like Mariah Carie. It lays dormant all year round only to reawaken from deep slumber around winter time. This time I managed to drag my buddy into it. Figured I'd help promote our gaming channel.
@@RebelWorkshop same i tried recasting 7th edition vampire counts zombies, it was july and i got tired of sticking to furniture and gave it up. Shame too since I think it would have worked quite well
@@moose6154 I did discover some new interesting improvements in this one that would allow me to consolidate how many molds I have to use as well as reclaim some of the lost casts so the general trend on improvement is going up. Still not using vacuum chambers or pressure pots to boot.
@@RebelWorkshop doing the lords work dude, recasts are necessary to play, fuck £40 for a squad of chaos marines (shudder to think what the us markup is). Also I think you can develop a substantial viewer base from poorhammer fans. Real demographics that get ignored in tik tok lore videos, when all they want to do is take part.
Ahoy, me Mateys! Part 2: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aoBr0JehgtPVYs4.html Released on our second channel that needs way more attention: www.youtube.com/@RetroActiveGamers This is about 10 hours of recasting work boiled down to just a couple of hours.
Waiting for it to render in HD then imma watch. Cant wait!🏴☠
Dang It shoulda given it time to process. In a meantime, help us get our joint channel out of the abyss of algorithmic void! : www.youtube.com/@RetroActiveGamers
Honestly, it is better to cut the sprue and do multiple smaller castings rather than the entire large sprue. Another method, although extremely tedious and time consuming would be to cut each piece and cast them individually as well. Also please get a pressure pot and vacuum chamber.
Cutting up definitely makes it so much simpler. Way easier to handle and any defects doesn't mean that you gotta now recast the whole ass sprue. Just the segment that has the failure. I did try recasting individual bits out of the sprue but honestly the amount of work was about the same. I also like to keep the parts in the sprue because the sprue has the part numbers so assembling to the guide is a touch easier. I am also adamant at recasting the whole sprue because - if I'm successful. Making a new copy is as simple as pour-wait-pull and that's it. Have both pressure pot and vacuum chamber. On that note - My most recent attempt had very, near perfect result without the use of either. It's just a matter of prep technique and patience. Video coming.
Wire mesh I think would work well and the mold would work through it. Great video man! 🤙
Actually prefer this so much over a 15 minutes video
Loved watching both the videos!
Really loved this! Its great seeing someones learning process documented - you learn from the mistakes as much as successes. Shame we never got part 3 but ive just noticed your more recent drone video so ive got to go watch that to complete the recast bingewatch!
My recasting cravings are like Mariah Carey. It slumbers for nearly the whole year only to re-awakened at the first frost.
I have an interesting idea. Try using a large syringe to fill the mold from the bottom up. Keep it oriented as you have it now, but add a short length of tubing sticking out the bottom. Dump the casting resin into a large syringe, put the plunger in, and force the resin into the mold from the bottom. This way as it pushes up through the mold, under pressure from the syringe, it will force all the air out the top. As long as you have vents to ensure no undercuts trap bubbles, this should result in a completely bubble free casting.
You know if there was such a thing as a transparent silicone, One could use a syringe with a large nizzle to fill in any bubbly areas post-cure
@@RebelWorkshop Not sure what you mean, I was talking about something like this kzread.info/dash/bejne/mYumtZKEqrXPpto.html
Right right. I was thinking more about using transparent resin so you can see the faults and fill them in with a needle and syringe before popping it open
This guy paid by gamesworkshop you wanna recast ur minis use a clay cast its not that hard. (Spoiler) no success shown.
Lmao. If Games Workshop paid me, they'd do it in Melee Weapons for Tau units. Also tf you mean no success shown? I'd say that's a pretty good yield despite the janky experiment.
Hot glue loves to re-melt hot glue, great video, love the presentation and the as it happens approach.
I’d suggest pegboard for the re enforcement.
Another great suggestion. I reckon it's something I can 3D print myself too if anything.
Have you considered using these larger molds for the bigger pieces, And just using BLUE STUFF, to make molds and stuffing them with GREEN STUFF. for the smaller bits?
I have, the current padding doesn't leave much to clamp with. But I have not really looked at Blue or green stuff. I think when I did, I considered it to be too expensive for my sort of experimentation volume.
@@RebelWorkshopI can side with blue stuff, seems expensive but it's infinitely reusable. And it's just so useful for remaking those littlleeee parts
Weigh the originals, room temperature is going to affect cure times. And from casting in silver 2 parts molds are far superior in my opinion. Keep up the good work!
Buddy it's an interesting experiment but there's no need to cast the whole sprue - it's just not made for hand casting. You could also just do like, thirds of the sprue. But as a fellow caster I love seeing the work put into this!
It's definitely an additional plastic and mold cost. I was more hoping to see if I can just do an all-in-one go recast. One Spue - Everything at once. Plus the part numbers were also kept intact for assembly
Can’t wait to see more of your stuff!
For support walls. I wounder how a wire mesh would work, similar to concert? it would allow the silicone to flow around and through. but give some flex if needed.
So the whole point of the reinforcement is to keep the mold more structurally firm. Less flappy. And in hindsight... ice-cream sticks... Jesus.. what was I thinking?. I realized later that I could have actually just printed a perforated solid plastic wall on a 3D printer. Wire mesh might be still too bendable / rigid. I mean I've been making half molds even without any wire mesh in the first place. I might just try that next.