That 4inch pvc pipe trick was brilliant👌🏾

I drove from Houston to Buffalo and then down to seth Carolina. The bearing started howling. I stopped by Lowes bought what you said and changed the bearing without a hitch. I couldn't have done it without your video. Thx.

This vid is ten years old and still helping people

If I can't have a special tool, I must find a special guy :) thanks sharing

This is the best E36 rear bearing removal video on youtube !! Those E12 torx on mine were super tight. Had to use a 600 ft. pound impact wrench to break them loose. Had some old wheel lugs - glad kept them around.

You did a great job on the bearing replacement. I would like to see a video on the side with the exhaust pipe. That's where things change a little.

Great vid. My 1997 328i driver rear bearing started to faintly make that noise, and I decided I had time to be proactive. One note, on the driver side, you have to drop the muffler to get the half shaft out. Easy to do since the flanges are behind the cats, and the muffler is held in by two easy to reach clamps.

You completing skip getting the half shaft out of the hub, and getting it back in. That was the most difficult part of the job for me.

@mariogutierrez8085

5 жыл бұрын

how u do it?

@boblichtman12345

4 жыл бұрын

@@mariogutierrez8085 Remove the sway bar end links and rotate it down. The shaft then has enough space to come out. You can use a two jaw puller to push the shaft out, or just a BFH and anger.

@pieterlastname1276

4 жыл бұрын

@@boblichtman12345 i have tried pushing half shaft out with puller it broke and then took it to have it pressed out on 20ton press and it will not budge.

Thanks for the prompt response!! I already figured out how to break loose that axle, i used the old nut to prevent damaging the threads and also used a ball hammer with a brass mallet to loosen the axle from the hub, the rest was as you showed on the video!! Anyways, thanks again and keep up the good work!! Remember the safety equipment always!! SAFETY FIRST!!! SGT Gabriel Abreu MATES ARNG Technician, Salinas, Puerto Rico.

Thank you so much for your help!!! Kia Ora from New Zealand.

Wow, I am impressed by your ingenuity on this. I use the OTC Hub Grappler tool at my shop, but this is a great video for DIY. I'd recommend getting a couple new lug bolts as using them to force the bearing out will mushroom the ends. If you attempt to use them you may damage the hub threads. Overall great video and use of what's just laying around the shop!

Great video, followed step by step and came out a success. Only issue I ran into was when I was pressing out the hub using the lug bolts. They mushroomed a bit from smashing again the bearing splitter.

Thanks for this video... I was not looking forward to this job but now have a better idea of how to deal with it! Many thanks.

wow you sir are amazing! Thank you very much for your upload i really appreciate it, it's really saving me from a bind!

I am working on this as we speak. Great video. Very helpful. Thanks!

question: before removing the axle shaft, is it possible to use a 3 jaw puller to remove the hub? Or that might damage the axle shaft since it will apply force against it? Thanks! G

Well sorry to say the inverted torx is required unless you want to risk damaging the bolts. A twelve point socket might work, but any auto parts store should have these torx. Thanks for watching!

This method is great to avoid having to buy special tools. Very innovative and clever, thanks so much for sharing with others!

@Maciej-McOst-RICH

2 жыл бұрын

🤣🤣🤣👍

Thanks for the follow up. I'm glad you finally got the job done!

Great Tutorial. I tell you though, you make it look easy. Kicked my butt - I think I may just be getting old. Everything worked great tho. Thanks for putting this together.

You made this look so easy about a year ago my rear wheel bearing started howling so I ended up buying a whole trailing arm with the axle and hub still connected thought that would be easier than changing the bearing but it took long wet still my bearing is going out again and I’m probably gonna use this method

I tried to do this recently (on my 2009 335xi). I had to drill and break the axle nut to get it off - mine was extremely corroded. When I got to the bearing, I absolutely could not remove the center part. I tried every technique I've seen on KZread and on forums, but mine would not come out with any tools I had. I was able to break it and knock out every piece but the center. I was also able to remove the race from the hub. The only way I was able to move the center at all was by putting a piece of steel on it and hitting it several hundred times with a 4 lb. mallet. That moved it maybe two millimeters, and it dented the steel more than it moved the bearing! I had to get the car to a shop to finish this job, and they had to remove the knuckle and use a large shop press to push out the bearing. Consider this is a possibility (if yours is as tight as mine was) before you start this job.

I removed both my rear hubs and bearings on my e36 today using exactly what this this video taught me although I didn't have the PVC pipe I used the bar and other components which came with my bearing seperator kit Thanks ed.

Just perfect. How can one dislike this helpfull video? Many thanks for upload!

just did this job. Australian bloke in Sweden - where they love salt. Not as simple process as on your lovely movie. And a 20 year old car. 16mm bolt on the brakes - el cheapo ring spanner, had to grind them down to 15mm after I rounded them off. Tip: make sure you get good quality tools. Mate, your video was perfect. apart from my local crap and challenges, I ordered everything you mentioned and got it done in an afternoon. thanks for publishing it. by the way, "bearing separator", you cant just "get it anywhere" in Stockholm. and it aint cheap. but the job's done and the old girl lives on.

FINALLY the sound I've been looking for. Thank little baby jesus!!!

Great use of the bearing separator, will make it that much easier for me!

No special tools ?, he was using all sorts of tools you wouldn't find in the average garage.

@johnnysagastume3202

4 жыл бұрын

Lmao

@yolkipalki6183

3 жыл бұрын

Lmao

@duc696monster6

3 жыл бұрын

Haha, yea i was thinking the same.. Only non special tool was the 13 and 17 wrenches...

@robertthrem3382

3 жыл бұрын

Yes you need more than a hair curling iron

@rahimahmadi3339

2 жыл бұрын

🤣

Good video, I used a few of your tips to do both of mine over the weekend. My biggest suggestion is to be careful when you are using the lugs to pull the hub off. I was pretty lucky, only one lug got ruined. I managed to save the others. It mushrooms the tips out a bit.

Thanks for putting in the time to do this. Now I have to.

thanks for all your tips, I finally found my the source of my noise ,it was the rear right strut mount bushing, Meyle are not good quality,that thumping rear noise it was eating me alive got progressive during 1 year period unexpected, now I ve got the smoothest running e46 325i in the US, by the way if you change your guibo and the centermount bearing u will be impress how smooth a ride can be. God bless ,Florin

@projectgothamgtr Thanks for the comment! The parking brakes are easy to remove/install. There are push and twist tabs holding the pads in place. Just do one side at at time so you can refer back to the other for reassembly.

i wonder if the debate on whether special tools were used is still active. i liked the video, i have all of those except the bearing separator. i don't have the harmonic pulley like that, but i've always used a 3 jaw puller. either way, not expensive at all and i knew i should eventually get them. definitely wouldn't categorize them as special tools, nice video! i will have to do this when i get the bearings in.

Great video. No specialty tools is correct. I’m also going use the O’Reilly or Autozone free rent a tool, so all good. I didn’t see in the breakdown that you took out the e brakes etc….I’ll have to watch again, because on the install video you do it shows just that you out them in. Not sure how, saw your comment I’m sure it’s something I can figure out. Thanks

i love your videos you make everything so easy & simple!

@Davidm3286 LOL Yeah, it's tough to run the camera while doing these jobs. Thanks for the comment and good job improvising and getting your job done!

What the hell does NO SPECIAL TOOLS mean to you ?

@edzgarage

10 жыл бұрын

If any of these tools are special to you, don't do this job...

@351cleavland

10 жыл бұрын

I used a stick of dynamite-60% of the time-it works every time!

@bradwwood

10 жыл бұрын

The BMW tool is $250 dollars... so, by "no special tools", he really means no tools over 20'ish bucks. If you expected to do with with paper clips and rubber bands, you probably should take your car to the shop

@m1leswilliams

9 жыл бұрын

EdzGarage These tools aren't 'regular tools. The guy has a point. I changed engines in the past and the only special tool I needed was a clutch alignment tool.

@DanK4o8

8 жыл бұрын

+Miles Williams special tools are manufacturer specific and cant be found in the auto section.. these are all basic tools and shit from the hardware store...

Brilliant job U r very creative Thanks for gr8 video

Nicely and helpfully done mate !!

Ed, improvising tools save you a lot of bucks, as we know special tools are expensive.. very good job..the 4in.pvc should be schedule 80 in that way it has a strong wall to hold the pressure...thanks Ed...I am working tomorrow with my 1989 bmw 735i..

@Bimmermau You push the two springs in that are holding the pads in place and turn them a half turn either way, they should release. Do one side at a time so you can get it back together by looking at the side that's still together. Thanks for the comment!

@1972marathon Hi Paul! Thanks for the comment. I am really puzzled why your axle shaft wont come out of the hub. I have had a few people say the same thing. Did the other side come out? I am going to have to take my car apart again to see how this is happening. If you do figure out the issue please post back. -Ed

Very good video! Helped out a lot! Thank you!

Very helpful clip my friend ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge ! Greetings from Poland !

@vidman008 Thanks Ron! I appreciate your concern of me being alone. I wasn't really alone, my wife and kids were home, but were busy with other things. They check up on me on a regular basis. I have the car supported with two jack stands AND the floor jack.

Good vid with a couple of new ideas. To get a bearing race out or off, if one has access to a stick welder, heating up the race in one spot to red hot by welding a short bead of metal onto it with your electrode (welding rod) will expand or contract the race so as to make its removal easy. I don't bother with an acetylene torch. (Not enough concentrated heat in one place.) .

@romeotxt1 Thanks for the comment. The washers I used were nothing special. I found them in my junk drawer. Try to get washers that are just smaller then the outer race of the bearing. Be careful not to damage the inner race when installing.

You're very welcome Buddy! Have a great holiday.

@MGregoryB126 Thanks Buddy! Wow good job hanging in there and completing the job! It is nice once you're done and the car drives and sounds so much better.

@BRogers2767 Thanks for the comment! You are not the first to say they were stuck at the axle removal. I don't know why it's not coming out. Mine slid right out. If you do figure out why it's stuck could you post back so I can add it to the video?

Can I ask how long the E socket extension was when removing the CV shaft torx screws? Reason why I ask is because I was just under the car and am bumping up against the sway bar (I believe it is the sway bar) when trying to get to the torx screws. I've been trying with a ratchet and just can't get the strength, so I just picked up an impact wrench with some E-Sockets.

For anybody living in the UK, the "3/4 base" is called a floor or ceiling flange here. :)

Thanks for the detailed tutorial, helped me alot with my E87 120d. However, I'd like point out one thing that the tutorial didn't mention. That the CV axle may be very, VERY stuck! I ruined 2 lugnuts and one puller, trying to get that sucker out but finally some brutal sledgehammering did the trick.

worked like a charm. thanks a ton

another great job Ed

@deweywsu Thanks for the comment! The jack is from Harbor Freight. It works great and has a very low profile to fit under the my car.

@senorchili I broke the bearing loose by putting washers on the back side of the bearing (the washers cannot hit the hub, just the bearing). get it really tight and hit the hub with brass hammer to "shock" the bearing loose. I'm assuming you did not forget to remove the "C" clip first. The axle shaft should come right out. You need to remove the inverted torques screws at the trans and work the shaft out past the sway bar as I showed in the vid.

Thanks for the great video. What size washers are those that you used to pull out the bearing? Do they come with the puller?

Hi Ed, do you know what size that bearing separator is, ie what range in mm or inches is it for the BMW rear bearing hub removal Cheers ps Love the diy videos

please answer me one question what size was the bearing Seperater please? most go to.105mm but do I need one that big as it only sots behind the hub the one you have looks large so would like to know thank you

Great Video! It was a big help for me to decide if I do it on my own or not. And finally I did it. But I have to add some comments: - On my E46 320 cd the screws of the driveshaft are Torx E12, not E14! I had much trouble because I had used E14. It was horrible challenging to remove the overtrorqued screw! - This Video is great for the installation on the rear right! But the work on the rear left is much more than this, because you have to lower the exhaust - read my next comment

Hi Ed, I pressed the bearing in, and then the hub, I used never seize, The hub spins nice and smooth but it has some play, I can move it Side to side a bit. And it's pressed all the way in. This is without the axel And axel nut installed. Is this normal, will the axel and nut sinch it down, The washer I used to press the bearing in was not big enough to cover the outer edge of the bearing?

I had a half shaft siezed too,,,I used a 20 ton press and heat and she finally popped... However I did use your method to pull the new hub and bearing in, so again, thanks for that.

Anyway, big thanks! You helped me get it done!

Great vid! Can you advise which way the new bearing is meant to be pressed in? The new bearing kit i have has the same colour dust covers either side so i don’t know which side has the encoder in it for the ABS sensor to read. Can you help advise?

@GearHead1625 It's good to use the bolt to get the lug holes lined up. Just makes putting the tire on much easier. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks!! this video helps for 100%!!!

hi ya Edz the way in which you explain how to do a job is really kool m8 and im sure it helps lots of people out and that is certainly the case with me keep up the good work brutha..wat size r the 2 washers pls

I've got an 08 335i. I followed a different video to remove one side and that vid had us remove the whole knuckle. He lightly tapped on the shaft spline to loosen it., Mine was stuck and I may have hit it too hard and bent the threads. Needless to say I removed all the support arms and tried to use a slide hammer to get the hub off the spline with no luck. Mine does not have the nuts around the inside part of the short shaft and it simply pulled out with the whole knuckle assembly. And now its at the machine shop where I'm hoping they can press it out without damaging the knuckle. So I'm following your video to do the other side. Does the shaft have to be out to remove the hub? And if so what if its stuck? Thanks

Thanks for posting this info!

Great vid!!! What size is the bearing separator that you're using to pull off the hub? Thanks again

this guy is a genius

axle shaft on my little bros axle shaft was an E12 socket. Great video, I am depending on your videos!

If you are replacing the hub and the bearing assembly at the same time, do you still need to split them?

hey im doing the same job to my 323ci I bought a size 30 socket and didn't work to small what size socket did you use?

Hi, Just about to do my rear wheel bearing on a e91 using this method. What size bearing separator did you use? Thanks.

Hey Ed great video, I wish my rear bearing sounded as quiet as yours. I am shopping for the bearing separator online, what size separator do I need? also, you show a torks socket to take off the rotor but do not give the size. Are there any special tools to remove the e-brake plate? Thanks for your help

Thank you for doing /uploading video

Hi Ed. Brilliantly informative videos thanks. Very helpful. I have a 1996 318is. ABS, no traction control model, with rear disk brakes. The process I assume is very similar to what you've shown. However, just like Brad my mechanic cannot separate the shaft from the hub....! After an hour of hammering it still won't come loose and I've subsequently heard the same horror story from various people. Regards, Paul - Dublin, Ireland.

Thanks for the response.its very much appreciated

hi i have to replace the protction plates behind the rear discs do i have to remove bearings to do this i have a bmw 316i E46

Tank you from Norway for good instructions. Have to replace it on my 1-series, think it is about the same tecnic on that car too.... Have a 325xi e46 also with high milages, so I might do the same on that car soon. 270.000km...

Thanks for the video. What size was the axle nut socket? thank you

@Bananaboy2601 Yes, you push the spring in and turn it a half turn either way and it should release. Do one side at a time so you can get it back together by looking at the side that's still together. Thanks for the comment!

I replaced my bearing on my 1992 325i and shortly after, I had my tires changed, as I had a blowout. I hadn't noticed, but after reassembly, they told me my hub was loose. So loose the wheel could fall off and they couldn't replace the tire (god knows why they couldn't fix the hub) what can I do to fix that?

Nice I thought this is easy way to do but it need that tool but is it universal harmonic balancer so j can search on eBay for that ? And it's coming with the washer and nut?

I have a 1993 bmw 525I. would this video be the right one for mine?

Awesome vid did you buy the big nut for the puller or did the nut already come with the puller?

@accord03 If you listen to beginning of the video, I recorded that sound while driving down the road of my bad bearing. The sound gets louder as you go faster and in some cases as you turn the wheel left to right the sound will get louder in one direction if one bearing is bad.

Hi Ed, These are fantastic videos!! don't stop. i only had to purchase the E14 and the #30 mil 12point, doing this for the first time. this might seem silly question but im at the point where i need to pull the axel but is it the CV clamp that I remove?

I've done this before on an old E23 many years ago, i seem to recall the procedure being very similar. It wasn't difficult and we did it at home with not special tools.

Great Video! Did you use a 12 point socket or six point on the axle nut?

Thanks for this video very helpful for when I attempt mine. Do you ever get any trouble getting the driveshaft out of the hub? it looked pretty rusty.

How did you install the bearing and hub back?

Smart solution good job

One more question is what size is the large wheel bearing seperator? Thanks for all the help man!

@natiun05 Hello! Thanks for the comment. The race is the inner part of the bearing. The balls roll between the inner and outer bearing race. When you remove the hub the inner race may not stay with the bearing and separate like mine did, but sometimes the bearing stays together and comes right off the hub. If the inner race is stuck on the hub, you will have to remove it before installing the new bearing. I hope this helped.

nicely done !

@lauracadman I believe the bearing separator was a4 inch. I'm not exactly sure because I borrowed it from a friend.

Hi two questions firstly what size bearing seperator did you use? I've seem the 30-50mm and 75-105 mm and others??? Also as you have not shown removal of brake shoes is this easy? Thanks