Prada: Fascism and Fashion
Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль
Miuccia Prada’s profound artistic expression as a household fashion designer explores the intriguing connection between Prada's first show and her nuanced commentary on fascism, drawing inspiration from key historical events and cinematic influences. She took her audience in her debut Fall 1988 Milan Fashion Week runway show to the turbulent era of post-World War II and the aftermath of Benito Mussolini’s rule in Italy. Drawing inspiration from the Italian Neorealist film movement of the 1950s, particularly Roberto Rossellini's iconic film "Rome, Open City," Prada masterfully infuses her collection with visual references and narrative subtleties. By exploring the gritty reality and human experiences depicted in this cinematic gem, Prada cleverly incorporates themes of resistance, resilience, and the dichotomy of power. Today, there’s no re-edition bag, mens sport shoes, headbands, or galleria bag, there’s not even Raf Simons or a slime curtain! But there is symbolism, historical references, and cultural significance that is woven throughout the first ever Prada show. By examining the strange intersection of fashion and fascism, we gain a deeper understanding of the power of artistic expression to challenge and provoke thought through the medium of art that is fashion. Subscribe to watch more KZread videos about fashion storytelling.
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@FayaScalp
11 ай бұрын
What you didn’t mention is that fascism is born from the PSI (Partito Socialista Italiano). Which is a left communist party … 👀
@re7416
11 ай бұрын
U remind me of Jesus.....🤔 * I think it's the white shirt, the long hair and the stigmata @ 03:50 * Although urs could do with being re-centered. (Bless the YT Comments Section, right?)
@re7416
11 ай бұрын
@b.b. 🤦🏼♀️ (A) It's a joke. AKA having a sense of humour. AKA something most Folk in Fashion possess. ● I'm guessing u don't work in Fashion....🤔 (B) The North Korea stuff !?!? 🤔 Unless I'm missing a comment in our chain...(& I don't think I am)...then I'm not sure where that came from. (Not me.) Or even how it's linked 2 the subject matter. ● I quietly wonder whether ur a little 🥜🥜🌰? So, think it best my not responding 2 anything further forthcoming. ● But to pass u some nuggets / triggers to gnaw on...🐿 Illuminati | World Conspiracy | UFO's | Mind Control | CIA | 'Earn £100k pa working from 🏡. As me how' | Happy chomping 😋 (💡And don't 4get to floss 👍🏼) 😘
@cliftonbowers6376
10 ай бұрын
Prada is all I wore 😮
@ximioki
8 ай бұрын
I think that is quite obvious@@re7416
Born and bred Italian here, that was a great video. It can get frustrating sometimes as everybody wants "a piece" of Italy on a very superficial level without delving into any sort of detail. Thank you
@icaprone1
11 ай бұрын
how did you feel about the map of "north" and "south" I was a little surprised the "north" was that far north
@jaygio
11 ай бұрын
Hearing his pronunciation of Miuccia ("Mewcha") was atrocious
@jaygio
11 ай бұрын
@@icaprone1yes the map was... interesting, to say the least. Good to know Genoa, Bologna, Florence, and even Rome are Southern.. lol
@frafrafrafrafra
11 ай бұрын
@@icaprone1the map was about where olive oil and butter are used
@matteot2810
4 ай бұрын
Yes, they did their research, it shows! That's why I would never point out on another video that Maschietta is pronounced like maschile that means masculine, why people check all their pronunciations, weird
This side of Muiccia (and Prada) is actually talked about extensively, but mostly in design school. Unfortunately, fashion for public consumption is usually dumbed down to asethetics and 'flex' culture. I've actually always felt that Dior under MCG is a bootleg version of everything Muiccia stands for and has done, but fails to do so with anything other than profit and faux intellectuality in mind (and it works! Lol, because nobody is actually digging deeper to question her strategies 🤷♀️). On that note, this was well done and explored! And if I might suggest a topic, if you haven't already covered it, Rei Kawakubo and the designers who have 'graduated' from her and are a part of her extensive fashion eco-system, might be of great interest to you (and us if you decide to cover it!).
@BlissFoster
11 ай бұрын
I’m so glad you connected with the episode! Thank you so much for the kind words. We read a lot of academic fashion journals and have a pretty sizable collection of fashion school textbooks at home. I’ve never read anyone who discussed the things we talked about in this episode. Could you recommend some resources that have discussed this topic?
@SaffariRose
11 ай бұрын
I can recommend the book, *'Fashion under Fascism'* by Eugenia Paulicelli. It's by far the most referenced book on this cross section. (Her website is also quite helpful as she researches both Italian fashion and film under the lenses of history). *Gabriella Romani* would be another reference. She covers Italian fashion from the era of the Risorgimento, downwards, in her journal articles. I think I should also point that that if all your references are in English, you might be limited because I do remember sitting through quite a bit of fashion history under Italian lecturers so I would assume their bibliothèque would be from Italian journals, books and articles that might vastly be untranslated. My advice would be to reach out to foreign professors/lecturers/ journalists who cover history in fashion. They would have the best resources for you. The two women I mentioned up could be a good start. Either way, besides Miuccia, Elsa Schiaparelli and the Sorelle Fontana (Fontana Sisters) are frequently mentioned as Anti-Fascist designers before her so there might be some cross references if you explore other designers that were driven by the same design intent. A helpful book would be, *Fashion at the Time of Fascism: Italian Modernist Lifestyle Between 1922 and 1943* by Alessandra Vaccari and Mario Lupano. Lastly, Archives are extremely helpful! Most iconic brands have some (and though many may not be fully digitalized), you might find some things helpful if you're cross referencing eras or particular topics from the articles and journals pertaining to that designer. *Vogue Archive* is a good one, (you'll need a school lib pass or your local library, otherwise, you have to pay a subscription). *Vogue Italia Archive* would probably be more helpful here than the U.S one but still give it a go. Italy also has a ton and I can recommend *The European Fashion Heritage Association* and the *Archivi Della Moda del Novecento*. Hope these were helpful! Cheers!
@MsKateC2K
11 ай бұрын
Fascinating! Can you elaborate more on what you said about MCG at Dior? I'm not really knowledgeable with her design philosophy so I'm curious as to how the faux-intellectualism manifests in her collections
@tomomo285
11 ай бұрын
@@MsKateC2K MGC slaps the word feminist on a garment and does not much else outside of that
@ZRSKAAA
9 ай бұрын
praise be!💯
To anyone interested in fascist italian fashion, I literally just finished reading a book on it: Eugenia Paulicelli: Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt. Highly recommend. One very interesting thing was that there seem to have been two official aesthetics for women under fascism: That of the mother and housewife and that of the athlete wearing either sporting gear or more femme fatale like stuff. However this choice didn't mean that you had a choice agains the regime: Both of these were pro regime, one as a birther, the other as, well, an ultimately more fit birther. Also, there were already calls to italianise fashion before the fascist era and not just by right wing nutjobs. At that point in time Italian fashion still mostly imitated what France did and quite a few people saw it as a great economic opportunity to have a more independent Italian fashion (of course there was also plenty of nationalist rhetoric). However, whatever the fascist ENM did was absolutely unsuccessful (what a surprise) and an Italian fashion only really started to be a thing decades after the fascists.
@BlissFoster
11 ай бұрын
Strong agree! Eugenia’s work was a really crucial resource in making this video happen 💫💫
Wow...I love most of your videos, but the sheer history-as-fashion-history (+ Prada being awesome) makes this my favorite one yet
this take on Dr. Prada is amazing and it makes me so greatful for fashion critics like you who truly believe in the background story of the conceptual designers it’s what keeps this world going round !
While I do love the escapism element of fashion, I always love it when designers incorporate current politics and culture in their storytelling, it just feels more fresh and contemporary compared to only ever getting inspiration from house codes.
I tell everybody and their mama about this channel- ive never heard anyone talk about fashion this way and its so fascinating and inspiring to me. Looking forward for when ive got some extra coin to send your way
Thanks for this superb analysis! You're one of a kind! As a cinephile myself I noticed that Miuccia also has a strong film influence, sometimes making an entire collection off of just one character's look. She is magnificent!
I don't know much about fashion history, Prada and miumiu were my favorite high fashion brands just because of the looks, but now I just love them even more I loved this incredible informative video!
I recommended your channel to my not-into-fashion-and-clothing boyfriend. We walked into a fashion forward store in Amsterdam. He made a beeline for the cool menswear and was completely enthralled. His creativity is awakening and he is slowly starting to look towards things he likes and not the things that all Amsterdam men wear. It's great! And also: up the algorithm you go! ⬆️
@forestprophet
11 ай бұрын
I'm from a town near Amsterdam and I can confirm there is a very clear pattern in what the average Ams man wears lol
@yellowbags
11 ай бұрын
Yes haha! Nothing wrong with conformity but I know that he likes modern art and has an eye for colour and composition. It's so great to see that his creative side is growing! ❤
Clothes can be fascinating simply because they are with us through many trials and horrors. I love how this video shows us how clothes are part of survival and resistance. I hope you will continue to explore this.
This is by far one of the most interesting videos I’ve seen regarding to fashion. And while I absolutely love all the ideas bliss put forth, as someone who lives under a fundamentalist regime who understands the struggles of being forced into a set of fashion options that aren’t my own choices, in prada’s works I saw an aspect of sneaking in your own expression of individuality into a forced archetype chosen for you by the state. A sense of rebelliousness, of modifying the clothes just enough to hint at others like you that you aren’t conforming to the rules of those controlling you. Like a little wink, a tiny breath of freedom in the middle of what is otherwise chains on your individuality.
Okay, I'm not really used to being impressed by KZread content anymore but your knowledge and presentation blew me away! Great job, it was well researched and equally funny and informative 👏 Come paycheck time, I'll be heading to your Patreon, I'd love to learn more 😊
ive never commented, but ive been watching passively for awhile now. selective videos, just of designers i enjoy. i recommended the "understanding vetements" video in a local bookstore to a worker. thanks for the content.
@BlissFoster
11 ай бұрын
Damn, this made my week. Thanks homie, I really appreciate it 💫💫
I appreciate so much your work!!! We live in a time when unfortunatelly there is little understanding and appreciation of true artistry and I am so glad that someone like you does all this research and presents it to the public! You cannot imagine how happy this makes me!
I can’t help but be so thankful because I learned a ton of new things after watching your video. I felt Prada must have some deep stories behind but never knew this level of nuances. Thank you so much, you make fashion deep and exciting!
I love it. My grandmother came from Italy to Argentina in 1953. She was 10 years old. She sews so I think she would love this video too
I just left architecture to start studying ti become a leatherworker. You are definitely one of my inspirations to get into fashion Thank you so much for your videos
@BlissFoster
11 ай бұрын
Honored. Can’t wait to see what you make 💫💫
@lioninguccisuit
9 ай бұрын
Can you make me suits :D.
@robsonbritofsa
9 ай бұрын
@@lioninguccisuit hhaahah I’m not sure. It’s mostly bags and small leather goods
Uno dei tuoi video migliori di sempre! I’m very happy to see your channel and analysis growing in quality like this. Grazie
The idea of fashion being "above politics" is so hilarious to me😂
@BlissFoster
11 ай бұрын
For sure. The attempt to “opt out” of politics is one of many reasons that fashion isn’t taken seriously. I wish more designers would find smart ways to incorporate politics: something more than slogans on tshirts.
@Baracuda-xj6zk
2 ай бұрын
@@BlissFosterBS. Politics are in way too many things already. Just leave fashion alone. I'm so tired of beer, ice cream, cars or whatever being politicized by brands by hiring some ridiculous trans activists or rhings like Trump sneakers and whatnot.
@dulaman9791
Ай бұрын
@@Baracuda-xj6zkyou like it or not fashion is and has always been political. People who dont want anything to do with politics are often the same who dont know shit about politics
👏👏👏This is what passion and research looks like! I love how well you explain everything, plus the reference content helps a lot as well.
Could you imagine a world where somebody could have a doctorate in political science and also be a prominent fashion designer? I feel like we're going backwards with our society and wonder what viewpoints we're missing out on, just because everything has to be so specialized now.
@ambergris5705
11 ай бұрын
To be fair though, Miuccia Prada did not create Prada, the brand had existed long before she was even born. In other words, she's a heiress, a nepo baby if you want, but what she did incredibly well is take this small Italian brand into a worldwide mega phenomenon all on the strength of her designs. So maybe we'll have a new Fendi generation who will have had a PhD too, or from another family, who knows.
@patieblue
11 ай бұрын
It is fair to point out that she resisted the idea of taking charge of Prada because of her view on the fashion industry at the time. Even so, when faced with the challenge, she went above and beyond any expectations and made Prada what it is today, together with Patrizio Bertelli. She's amazing, truly
honestly one of my fav KZread videos ever, no lie
only youtuber that i found who can talk about fashion and the meaning behind it. I love the history and knowledge shared. i absolutely have to sub.
One of my favorite videos you’ve ever made 👌
Thank you for your videos. I always loved art and fashion (despite being an economist as a profession). I had been searching for my joy in fashion looking at the labels or the likes on instagram, but always leaving feeling somewhat empty. Your videos have been a great joy to me. I feel like I finally found what I like. That is the level of fashion that gives me joy. Truly inspiring. Thank you!
This is maybe my favorite video you have ever done (neck and neck with the shoulder video). Amazing work here. Your analysis was so good
as always, the smartest fashion KZreadr out there, with real insight, history and discourse to support his/her/their arguments.
Thank you very much for this fascinating deep dive into Italian (fashion) history. Wish I had known about this first Prada Collection, and its connection to Italian Fascism, back in University when I wrote a paper about the Fashion Administrations (Modeämter) in Nazi Germany. They did similar things concerning women's fashion, making it more German. But the projects were much more elitist and niche, places for teaching elite girls and young Women about how to design and make German Couture. They developed what could be one of the first (?) plexiglass high heels during WWII, because other materials were scarce because of the war effort, but surplus from the arms factories found their ways to the islands of fashion.
The pattern thing reminded me of: Made in Italy is still a huge marketing/quality thing and it’s also known that to produce it as cheep as possible Italy companies produce in in china only attach labels in Italy and claim it is made in Italy. Since the last step was made there it is even legal. Loved the video.
This video is so amazingly and thoroughly researched, and your analysis of this fashion show amazed me to no end! Thanks a lot, you did an incredible job ❤
This is such an amazingly done video thank you! I wish i could have shown this to my nonna. She was a strong feminist who lived in Italy during and after the war a has spoken about the effects it had. She would of loved this.
Dr. Prada. Love that. This a an exceptional video giving us all the history we so need -- especially now.
You provide such genuine and engaging fashion commentary thank you Bliss
Thank you so much for this video. I think you are the first fashion youtuber who was able to give an analysis that leans in and acknowledges the political realities and how even in fashion there is still politics present if you know where to look (although I still find the silhouttes of the Miuccia's collection still pretty so maybe I just don't have a refined enough eye to see how it is unflattering).
This video is incredible!! Thank you so much Bliss, your work is impeccable 🤩🤩
I would love to see a full documentary or film about the origins of Prada because this is so interesting
I freaking love this type of content!! Amazing work
beautiful work, bliss! miuccia reminds me of so many of my school friends and my mother. their style might be seen as a little satirical but jokes aside they stablished the platform to the future both aesthetically and with wisdom. they are miuccia's classmates. they are the best people we know.
love these deep dives into one collection one house moto... all of it
one of the most interesting, in depth fashion videos i’ve seen in a while. thank you for this!
This was such a well put together video! I’m just dipping my toes into all things fashion and the history of it and you’re channel has been incredibly helpful in that. Keep up the great work!
@BlissFoster
4 ай бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it!💫💫
you are amazing. this is my first video from you but omg this is like erin parsons makeup research and explanations but with fashion. subscribing and can NOT wait for more.
I love it when you put history into the fashion analysis. Great video, I'd love to watch more content like this one.
And this is why I love it when women are in charge of the major fashion houses. The conversations that pick through history in order to comment on it - the personal really is brought to the political. I admire the opening of a conversation about the results of the limitations dictated by the local dictator. If anything, it's an example that the remaining historic houses like Channel, Dior and Schiaparelli may just want to emulate as we start drawing closer to the 100 year anniversaries coming up in the next decade of this century. Ignoring the relationships they had to fascist dictators does no one any favours. Seeing as we're living in a world where we are again flirting with the strong-man image of leadership - the conversation needs to happen. Here's the irony that makes me almost laugh. The designated look for Italian woman during the war was already emerging, globally, in the mid to late 30's with the raised hemline and the nipped-in waistline. Of course, a group of pasty-faced politico men seated around the committee table are going to ignore that and claim it as their own original thought. The end result being women on either side of the dictator line are wearing very similar garments during the war. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Loveee the content about brands history!!❤
I always appreciate when storytelling comes from the artists truth and is expressed within the design of their work, timelessness with purpose >
The nuance, charm, knowledge, insight, professionalism and humor woven into such an intelligent and well researched video make it as much of a statement against fascism as some of the designers it covers. I believe that regardless of what we are passionate about it speaks through whatever we create. If we really believe in something passionately it can’t help but be a part of what we do and I believe there is a deep passion and responsibility against all things fascist that runs as deep as a love of all things fashion on display here. That kind of passion and representation is easily the most powerful thing fashion can do. Always astounded by this channel.
Thank you for my first exposure to the historical context and cultural nuance of fashion! Fantastic vid
Hey Bliss, i really appreciate the work you guys put into these videos. As a fashion student i love learning through your content. Cheers!
Love this channel !
Finding your channel is freaking my soul
GREAT GREAT EPISODE thank you so much 🧡
Hey Bliss, this video is so great, thank you for making this!!
This was a really fascinating insight into Prada, thank you. The relationship between war and fashion has always been interesting to me.
Oh fashion and history together I’m geeking😊
👩🍳💋!!! Bravo for so eloquently explaining how sometimes clothes are more than merely garments we dress ourselves in. Sometimes they encapsulate and evoke entire emotions, ideas, and worlds. Far from frivolous!
Bliss I just want you to know that I have personally recommended your channel many times!! And will continue to do so. Always good content, you are the goat
@BlissFoster
10 ай бұрын
Wow, thank you, homie! Means a lot 💫💫
This was so insightful and informative, thank you for dropping so much knowledge. Great job as always! ✨
Your breakdown of the historical context is spot on! Great video! It was super interesting to watch!
That was beautiful! Great work!
thankyou for all the info, bliss! (&mrs.bliss) as a huge fan of mamma miuccia, we all know she likes to design around challenges about what she doesn't like and turns them into things she and other people can wear. this really is very chef's kiss for a 1st collection. thankyou, loveyoutoo, will send the vid to a friend (coz i am one of those who literally can't join the Patreon as of yet - tird worldian). peace.
bravo!!! thank you very much for this!! Art history IS history, period!
You are an amazing human being thank you for all the videos. Been watching for a couple years and this is somehow my first time commenting thank you.
This is just SO BRILLIANT!
uno dei tuoi video più interessanti, love it
Great as always, thanks for your work.
This video is incredible omg the part on the blazer pockets 🤯
Thank you for making this extremely important video. You rock!
This one is going to blow up, amazing work!
this is my favorite video from you. very good job
its been sooooo hard finding any high fashion analysis from a more leftist perspective so thank you for this
@user-by5fn6yz7s
11 ай бұрын
Don’t get me wrong, btw I also love his videos, but it’s not that hard to find fashion analysis from leftists perspective, so where are you looking for them? Because to my knowledge fashion industry it’s very liberal/eft centered etc.. (not a hate comment just observation)
@wrongsideofaverage
11 ай бұрын
@@user-by5fn6yz7s i think we have different definitions of left. like yeah most people in fashion and talking about fashion are pretty liberal, but ive never seen anyone mention miuccia prada's communist roots, let alone analyze how it connects to her work. i'm probably missing someone, but i personally haven't seen anyone else talk about fashion with any serious class consciousness
@zorosbf
11 ай бұрын
@@user-by5fn6yz7sliberal = democrats (if you’re American), leftist = socialist. Huge difference
@peymcc3279
11 ай бұрын
Rian phin (thatadult) i would recommend
@marialuizasantos809
11 ай бұрын
@@user-by5fn6yz7s the American political speech has kind of twisted this, so maybe that's why it confused you. Basically, radical left (socialist and communists) are polar opposite to liberals. Now, the US divides liberalism in democrats (progressists) and Republicans (conservatives). In this context the left has voted with democrats (cause there's only two options and one is more to the right) but the democratic party is still very much right-wing. The progressist left, what you called liberals there, usually differ from the radical left for their defense of social-democracies whilst maintaining a liberal/capitalist economic and political structure. Sorry for the long message, hope it helped 😄
Dang, this is awesome. You laid your argument and evidence wonderfully.
Did I do a personal recommendation? Yes. Because this channel is just wow. I love it, it's interesting, fresh and snobbish at the same time, pure perfection
@BlissFoster
11 ай бұрын
I’m glad you’re into what we do, that means a lot to me. It worries me that you say “snobbish”, we try as hard as possible to not gatekeep and make this space welcoming for everyone. How is the channel snobbish?
@user-rj4vp3kw5l
11 ай бұрын
@@BlissFoster English is not my first language, so for me the word "snobbish" means something very intellectual and going really deep into understanding a certain concept. So, I guess from what you said I kind of messed up my wording and meant a completely opposite thing. I don't think you are gate keeping anything, in fact your channel helped me to learn more about fashion. I'm sorry, I didn't fully understand what "snobbish" meant 😅 I meant it as a compliment, my mistake
@BlissFoster
11 ай бұрын
Oh! 😅 haha all good, homie 💫💫
what a wonderful job of research and homework, I am now a true fan of yours.
Just wonderful Information....thank you so very much...excellent presentation!!!!now the HUGO BOSS Story!!!
Incredible video thank you
just sent my mentor your educational playlist i learn so much from this account!!!
i really liked this video, thank you for unveiling some of the dark mysticism behind this brand, I never really understood it and I wouldnt quite understand why!!
thanks for another great video, Bliss!
I hope to have just 1 tenth of the passion and sincerity that you have, towards ANYTHING I do... Amazing work Bliss. 🙏🏽❤ It seems like fashion in the past was much more political, much more of a social statement, tied to real world events. Fashion in modern times is more about "vibes" and personal style, with the odd moments of wearing a certain color on a certain holiday.
I could watch hours of this history, so interesting
I know nothing about fashion. This is good content and I am learning
First time viewer!! Love the content and casual canter!!
amazing! thank u, first video of you that i ve watched and instant fan
@BlissFoster
11 ай бұрын
Welcome in! As you watch thru other episodes, I’d love to hear your thoughts 💫💫
Great work man, I’m really learning a lot from you
Thanks for these videos
Thank you for this amazing analysis! ❤️
1. Isn’t it amazing? Some people will work for their ideas even when their hands are tied..while others will happily trade them to the devil. (Yes, I am looking at you, madame Chanel.) 2. This video pretty much sums up why I would never give my money to any of them houses that did business with the regime, even if that was decades ago. These companies were run by ppl who made their choices, either willingly or not, and so do I. Consumers have had the power all along, and always will. 3. This is great job, keep it up!! XO from Greece❤
This is a very interesting one. Thank you for another thought-provoking video.
Love your videos
outstanding video!!
amazing material
As an Italian it is very interesting ro rediscover pieces of our history. I guess I associated Prada mostly to the Pope's red shoes before this video. Great research! (The Sch in maschietta is pronounced like in masculine not mashed)
Love your video
Great content! Thank you so much ♥
This is brilliant! Thank you!!
This is amazing! I learned so much
You post the best content thank u