great super clear videos!...helped alot thank you!!

@matt_n_kat_things

3 жыл бұрын

So excited that it helped. All the best.

what's up with those drywall joints?

@matt_n_kat_things

6 ай бұрын

Not exactly sure what you are referring to. Can you clarify and/or give a timestamp? All the best - Matt & Kat (Things)

Hi great video! just curious - where do you get the shims for the cabinet? Is it 1/8 or 1/16 shims? Thanks!

@matt_n_kat_things

Жыл бұрын

If you are talking about the white shim strips - they are ripped down from an old sheet of fiberglass reinforced panel (FRP). A perfect 1/16th. All the best - Matt & Kat (Things).

My wife are considering pouring our concrete countertops using the same Z-Counterform system. We went with RTAStore cabinets instead of IKEA, but they are very similar. I was wondering if you could help me out with a couple things. Our Cabinet doors come to the top of the cabinet just like the IKEA Sektion cabinets, but Z-Counterform now offers a EuroForm, do you know if this would work instead of having to use plywood and thicker backerboard like you guys did? Also, our cabinets don't use the metal brace across the front like IKEA, they use a solid wood piece across the front, would this suffice for support, or do you feel I would still need to add extra support during the pouring process? Thanks for your time, we're really nervous about this project.

@matt_n_kat_things

2 жыл бұрын

Steven. Thank you so much for reaching out. What an exciting project! The Euro form does have a 1/4” drop so to the best of my understanding you will need to build up at least 1/4” from the top of your raw cabinets to allow for door clearance. No - I don’t think you need the extra plywood buildup that I used (if choosing the Euro form). I personally preferred the Hardi Backer Cement board to attach my forms to (over traditional cement board). They offer it in 1/4” and 1/2” thicknesses. If you go to the Lowes website you will see that the actual thickness of the 1/4” board is 1/4” - but the 1/2” board measures .42 (3/8”) thick. So technically the 1/4 board should provide you the exact clearance and the 1/2” board would give you an extra 1/8” to work with. Personally I would do a small mockup with both board thickness and a small piece of the form to see what the actually door clearance will look like. Additionally, many door hinges offer some adjustability - you can move the doors downward a bit for a smidge of extra clearance. As far as the cross members needing support. My understanding is that many “frameless” base cabinets use a metal or wooden cross meter to prevent the cabinet sides from moving outward - and no real downward support. As good test would be to push downward on the middle of one of the cross members - if you see any deflection at all then supporting them in some way might be a good safety measure. I admit I may have gone overboard - but that is my nature. Concrete countertop solutions did suggest the bracing in my case and if there is any deflection I suspect they will advised the same. One thing that has recently happened with my job is a hairline fracture in the skinny portion of concrete in front of the sink. In retrospect I may have opted to add a small piece of rebar in that section - Not sure if the fiberglass mesh provides enough strength in such a skinny section. Lastly, I would recommend calling Concrete Countertop Solutions as well - they were very friendly and helpful with me - they are the pros. We wish you all the best in your project - please reach out if I can help in any other way. Matt & Kat (Things)