I dug up the 21 ollas in my garden today, April 21, and none of them showed any sign of spalling or cracking due to freezing this past winter. All of the tubing connections were tight and the caulk joints were good and solid. The top of the ollas were typically about 4 inches below the surface of the soil, which I think is the key to my success. There were some other ones which were in another garden that were exposed at the surface and they didn't fare so well.

Thank you for a very educational video. Your attention to detail and talking about what does not work was a big help. Also, Excellent information on the Gorilla glue vs silicone glue. I learned a lot. Carry On.

@baphomet8me

Жыл бұрын

David, I recently became aware of a manufacturer in/near Tucson, Arizona that has developed one-piece olla balls. While I haven't tried them yet, they are on my list of things to purchase to try and improve the olla irrigation system. Here is a link to their product. cuttingedgeceramics.com/products/50-olla-balls

I'm so impressed with your efforts. You explain it like there's nothing to it but I'm sure it took a lot of effort and imagination to implement. I salute you.

@baphomet8me

8 жыл бұрын

Thanks Gary, it took awhile to simplify things, but the basic idea is largely the same as when I started.

I recommend aquarium grade silicone. It's the non toxic, food grade glue you've been looking for.

@victorm7274

3 жыл бұрын

You can probably use silicone adhesive to join the two pot together.

Thank you for sharing your experiences. Greatly appreciate all the measurable specifics. Very thorough -- and inspiring. !!!

Best movie I've seen on this so far ❤️

Awesome job, and very helpful presentation.

Thank you! This is great information. I have two plots (800 sq ft) in a community garden with challenging water access. This will make a huge difference especially if we have another draught this summer.

I really don't know how the Gorilla Glue does its magic, but it does seem to be fairly inert once it has set up. Thus far I've had no adhesive failures using it and it does a good job of sealing up the tubing at the point where the tubing is inserted into the posts.

Great system! Thank you for sharing. I'm going to created this for my yard

great job,water is starting to be a crucial commodity these days.also you don't have to worry about over watering with a system such as your set up.I will have to put that on my to do list being it gets so hot here in N.C. Thanks for sharing

great video this gave me lots of ideas, also very beautiful lake

This is so cool. . .gonna get me some Olla irrigation!!!

I made a small one this year .planted a cherry tomatoes in a tub with a olla and 6 more with out it does just as good takes about 6 0z water a day the others 2 gal. day will use more next year.that's a big difference in water. thanks.

The level in the bucket is determined by the amount of water needed by the plants. Most of the time a couple of inches of water above the irrigation tubing is fine. Ollas can operate at zero head pressure. The idea is to have just a bit of reserve so that the system stays primed at all times. However, the output of the system can be increased by simply increasing the water level in the bucket. A higher level increases the pressure on the capsules and thereby increases the flow rate. This can be

Yes, using 5 small olla capsules in 4x4' raised beds seems to be working quite well for most of our plants here in Michigan, where we've had record-breaking heat and a lack of rain this summer. Our tomatoes, squash, cukes, and eggplant are thriving with the arrangement. Because of the drought I have raised the water level in the regulator bucket to help force a bit more water to the beds.

Yes, you can feed the plants via the olla system. I typically use fish emulsion and simply hold down the float on the level valve so that the bucket fills up most of the way and then stir in about 1/4 cup of fish fertilizer. As the water feeds out to the ollas the fertilizer is carried with it and is delivered to the plants. You could also use worm tea, compost tea, or other liquid fertilizers in the same way.

I think it's better to darken the vessels you use for water, not by painting them black but make a wooden lighttight box (from pallets?). When u put paint on them the water will heat up to much. Using a wood box will keep the water cool(er) and as long as there is no light in the tank, the algae wont grow.

Any chance you could make an updated movie that include all the new nuggets of wisdom you've learned since this last movie. I know you've answered a bunch of questions and put updates in the comments but it's a bit challenging to read through all the comments and try to remember which information has the most current date 😅 thanks for posting this movie!

@baphomet8me

8 күн бұрын

The only new thing is there is now a company in Tucson, Arizona that is selling olla balls. They would require a lot less work but a few more tubing fittings.

Super informative, thank you! :)

Great details thanks

Thanks for the shares... Cheers!!

Thank you for the information

incredible!

Very nice video. We have been experimenting with olla's. Very similar so hopefully ours will do as well as yours.

I am very glad I came across your video. I need a solution for irrigating my garden, and this is the direction I will head! Thanks!

@klowery88x

8 жыл бұрын

And I have to say the price for the commercially available ollas is just robbery.

@baphomet8me

8 жыл бұрын

+Kip Lowery I agree. BTW, you might want to try a construction masonry adhesive as an alternative to Gorilla Glue or silicone caulk.

very very good job done m8..Cheers.

The float valve used in the bucket is a Dial #4164. The hose spigot on the IBC tote was connected using a short 1/2" pipe nipple and a 1.25 to .5 inch female threaded adapter inside. A rubber hose washer between the valve and the screw on cap for the tote prevents leaks. After some experimentation it seems like 2 feet between the ollas works the best for both raised beds and my "strip" garden.

@erinjamar3155

7 жыл бұрын

Thomas Bowes Were the ollas in your strip bed made from the 2.5" pots?

@crazysquirrel9425

5 жыл бұрын

The float is not needed. Direct connection and gravity fed works fine unless you have a leak somewhere.

Take the large opening of the pot, turn it downwards. Rub evenly and briskly on some flat concrete. Makes it flat and even.

firecloud, I haven't tried that specific adhesive but I'll check it out as I have a bunch of ollas that need to be repaired.

I think that you could make it work with a gray water system if you had a filter ahead of the regulator bucket. The problem with gray water is the soaps and oils in it, which would tend to clog up the ollas over time. You could probably filter the water through a barrel or large bucket of sand.

they do work . I made one this year. one t

They are attached with deck screws, two on each end of the 1x10 boards, to 2x2 or 2x3 corner posts.

Very informative video, thank you! I'll be trying this very soon. Trying multiple ways to irrigate in a very hot Central Texas. You say as long as they remain supplied with water the size isn't that different. Are you finding the 5 per 4x4 bed to be a good supply, making everyone happy?

this was very helpful thank you, i'm designing a new rain barrel system for my entire garden, likely using NPC flag drip emitters in most of the long 4' wideraised beds,also a few 2' at grade (spin farm types)..i like that you have the quote by Bill at the end,i'm a fellow permie'. i have lots of pots to use up as well so ollas have been on my mind. how do you determine the level to set the float valve, do you let the pots fill completely then set at whatever the bucket level is at?

Just a suggestion regarding the gluing of the two pots. Try a product called "liquid nails" or "no more nails". I have used this product for many things and when it dry's it's impossible to pull apart.Even cleaning a chromed screw driver that I used to spread the glue around I had to use a knife to clean it. Never tried it myself on pots like terracotta but who knows.

Actually, I left them buried last winter and had no breakage problems. However, last winter was very mild. This winter my ollas are still buried, with the water having been disconnected from them back in October. Time will tell how things turn out in the spring, but I'm expecting to find minimal breakage. The thought of having to dig them all up and store them doesn't sound too appealing to me, especially since I still have viable onions and collard greens in the garden.

You should check out the rain gutter grow system.

After some frustration repairing a fair number of ollas that I put together with Gorilla glue two years ago, I'm seriously considering trying an epoxy paste for the next batch of ollas. I'm also contacting a manufacturer of clay pots to see if they might come up with an olla set of pots that would nest together and have a larger glue joint.

@joshyoung1623

9 жыл бұрын

I use E6000 glue. Honestly I don't know why anyone still uses Gorilla glue. That stuff is crap. E6000 can be bought at Walmart, Lowes, Etc and will glue ANYTHING. Only thing is it takes time to set up but when it does it holds.

@firecloud77

8 жыл бұрын

+Thomas Bowes Have you tried Loctite PL Premium® Polyurethane Construction Adhesive? I use it for SO many things. It's waterproof and incredibly tough.

@baphomet8me

8 жыл бұрын

+firecloud77 I haven't yet, but I have. few ollas to repair and will certainly give it a try.

@billvoss5741

3 жыл бұрын

@@baphomet8me I was getting ready to order Gorilla glue when I saw this thread. What do you recommend using now?

@baphomet8me

3 жыл бұрын

@@billvoss5741 I was going to try the Loctite adhesive suggested above, or Liquid Nails masonry adhesive.

hmm...I just pictured myself filling the ollas a couple times a week, for my raised beds... but I guess if your schedule is tight...lol

Yes, with a liquid fertilizer.

In the raised beds, how are the side boards attached to the corner stakes?

congratulations, you have super over complicated a traditional and simple system :P

@jujube2407

3 жыл бұрын

Only semi complicated once! The watering by filling a bucket once a day or every other day or once a weekend etc ... or to a rain barrel thst is a virtually set it and forget it system! I'd rather take a day or 2 to make my water less and time used less all day every day!

@Chixbythesea

4 ай бұрын

So why do you have to be discouraging to someone breaking away from typical corporate “solutions” such as consumption of more plastic and giant irrigation supply companies? Con-Agra got you by the short hairs?

ciaoo grazie buona idea

Are these able to overwinter if you let them dry out?

Can you feed the plants through the ollas?

This is a great idea. Does anyone know if adding liquid fertilizer to the water will clog the pores in the terra cotta?

@baphomet8me

10 жыл бұрын

I've used a liquid fish emulsion fertilizer with no problems.

Would this work well with a gray water system?

for how many seasons can u use the ollas before replacements and how much %water do u save?. thank you for sharing.

@baphomet8me

7 жыл бұрын

Hafstadia, I'm on my sixth year with most of the pots still intact. The losses have been one that I hit with a shovel, one that was broken by a tree root, and a couple that had inadequate soil coverage when I first installed them. The lack of soil coverage causes the tops to spall during the winter, so I recommend about four inches of soil over the top of the ollas. As for the water savings, I'd estimate it to be about 70%, but it's difficult to compare since I also get higher yields with less weeding.

Hi Tom. Thanks for the video, that was interesting. Question for you: did you attempt using this system during the winter with any greenhouses? I'm guessing that the lines freeze up during the winter with the only other way to prevent this by burying them deep enough.

@baphomet8me

7 жыл бұрын

Nick Kirby, I haven't tried it, but as long as the temperature stays above freezing it should work. The water lines can be run below the surface of the soil to better insulate them.

@gelfling3250

4 жыл бұрын

Another angle..... Can the finished system be installed and used, inverted (up side down)?...... so that the lines are buried deep enough to withstand being frozen?

I wonder whether it would be cheaper to hand throw and fire your own ollas?

when i test pots like that (that are not a olla yet), plugging up the hole and putting water into a pot, i can see that after a while, the pot has changed color on the outside. It looks 'damp' but i don't see any little water-drops or something... So, i'm wondering if this'll work. The pots are terracotta and are unglazed. Is this normal and is this the case with your pots too ? Or does that change when the feeding reservoir is higher than the ollas and there is a little atmospheric 'pressure' on the olla..? (sorry for my English, i'm from Belgium)

@baphomet8me

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, the pots will appear damp but you should not see drops of water on the outside unless the system is under pressure. If the water has a high mineral content the pots may start to show discoloration from the minerals but they will still work.

👍

At 7:06 you had a slide of the ollas in the ground, tubing coming out of both sides. You called the tube sticking up out of one as a "bleeder". What does that do? Is it just an open tube? Is there a valve of some sort on it? I can't really tell in the video. Excellent presentation though! I enjoyed and learned quite a bit.

@baphomet8me

8 ай бұрын

Basically you are creating a series circuit with the ollas...the water comes in from the regulator, through four or five ollas, and the last one simply has a bleeder tube on the outbound side to allow faster priming of the circuit and easier troubleshooting. I usually plug the bleeder tube with the plastic plugs that they sell to plug the holes for, and ends of 1/4" irrigation tubing. When priming a system I remove the plugs from the bleeder tubes of the last olla of each circuit and as water starts to dribble out I reinsert the plug. It's also a quick way to check if a particular circuit is working...remove the plug - got water - no problem. No water - dig out the top of the previous olla and proceed back towards the source until you find the leak.

I am working with students at a small university to study olla irrigation to be used in an urban agriculture setting. Our Ceramics department are creating ollas for us and will make a large ceramic urn to be the feeder for the ollas. Our purpose is to only have to fill the urn once a week (at most) because the water supply is far from the garden bed and we can fill the urn with a series of hoses, but hope to not have to do this more than once a week. I am unclear as to the requirements for the urn (other than being able to hold enough water to continually fill ollas for a 4'x12' raised bed). How do we regulate the amount (pressure) of water coming out of the urn and filling the ollas? Would love your thoughts or references for this!

@baphomet8me

4 жыл бұрын

agolini262f15, the urn would be set up at the highest point in the system and would feed down to the regulator and then to the ollas. While it is possible to not use a regulator, the problem is that when the water level in the urn is high the increased pressure on the ollas will cause excess water to flow, thus increasing the rate of consumption. With the regulator the pressure that the is applied to the ollas remains constant, with minimal seepage. The flow rate then is determined by how much water the plants need.

It would appear that the convenient use of a tiller-cultivator gets voided out in favor of building, planting, and watering ollas throughout the garden. Considering that, I'm led to believe that this is a location specific or plant specific solution and not meant for larger gardens. Thoughts?

@baphomet8me

10 жыл бұрын

I tend to think of one olla per four square feet of garden space. Conceptually, it is a central watering point for four one foot square zones around it. I have used it for specific plants, such as vine squashes and pumpkins on an individual basis. To use the system for the best effect it is necessary to rethink the garden layout.

You mention a “bleeder hose”. Is that a tube at the end of the system to release air? I’m designing a gravity rainwater system to water my raised beds and I’ll likely use your methods. But I fear airlocks in the system when I first prime it in the spring. Is that the purpose of the bleeder hose?

@baphomet8me

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, while the pots are porous and will allow the air to escape spring startup is faster with the bleeder hoses. Basically, if you remove the bleeder plug and/or lower the end of the hose and water dribbles out in a steady stream you’ll know that circuit is functioning.

What do you do in the winter? Is it Ok to keep the tubing and ollas in the soil? Any winterizing needed?

@baphomet8me

8 күн бұрын

As long as they have about three inches of soil over them nothing needs to be done.

Can you explain why you need the float regulator in the bucket? Is it necessary? Could I just have a bucket filled with water and the tubing out to the ollas? Wouldn't the ollas, because of the slow dispersement properties of the clay regulate the water flow?

@baphomet8me

8 күн бұрын

It provides a constant water flow without having to manually refill the bucket.

Hi, it's a good system. Why don't you create a hole at the bottom of the olla ? With the archimede pressure, all the ollas will have the same level of water. have you tried ?

@baphomet8me

3 жыл бұрын

The issue is that it would be much more difficult to do startup, troubleshooting, and repairs. With the tubing connections at the top it’s easier to figure out where the problems are and to get them fixed.

I don't understand one thing... are the ollas pressurized? I don't understand where the air goes when you add water. When I imagine designing this, I would put an air return tube back to the distribution bucket... but obviously that's not necessary for your system.

@baphomet8me

9 жыл бұрын

kettch42 The air will bleed out through the wall of the pot, eventually, but what I do is put a piece of tubing into the outlet hole of the last pot in a circuit. Essentially, each pot has an "in" and an "out". Usually the "out" goes to the next pot in the circuit, until you get to the last one, where it serves as the bleeder. The bleeder can be plugged with a "goof plug", or left open and tied to a stake so that the end is higher than the level of the water in the bucket.

Any issues with the system freezing? Is there a way to drain the system before a hard freeze?

@baphomet8me

10 жыл бұрын

No issues. I simply turn the water off when the growing season is over in October and the ollas drain themselves. As long is there is 2-4 inches of soil over them for the winter there are virtually no problems with spallation or breakage

@123userthatsme

9 жыл бұрын

Thomas Bowes I live in North Texas where it's sometimes 90 degrees on a Tuesday and 30 degrees on a Wednesday night. There is no way to empty the system rapidly? Could it be set up with some kind of emergency valve?

@baphomet8me

9 жыл бұрын

The Red Willow I don't think that you have to worry about the ollas themselves as they are a few inches under the ground and shouldn't freeze over the course of a few hours. If you shut off the water to the regulator bucket it should drain fairly rapidly as you'd typically only have about four inches of water in it.

my concern in the gorilla glue you used to hold it together. Is it toxic and is there a safer alternative?. also does putting 5 small ollas in a 4X4 raised bed take up your planting space, and where do you place them in the middle outer edges or any where. By the way you did an awesome job!

@baphomet8me

10 жыл бұрын

I share the concern, but the evidence is that the glue is inert once it has set up. Placement of the ollas in a 4x4 raised bed is one foot from each corner and one in the middle.

@aleema13healing3

9 жыл бұрын

the company says its non toxic

what is gorilla glue made of we know what the clay is

You quickly mentioned a bleeder at the end. Can you please expand on what parts you used and how to use it, please?

@baphomet8me

10 жыл бұрын

The bleeder is simply a piece or tubing that extends from the last olla in a circuit up to the surface. I usually plug the tube with an irrigation system "goof plug" once I've established flow through the circuit. The tube can also be left open if elevated above the water level in the regulator bucket.

🎉

What happens if you have no bleeder tube at the end? i.e. is it completly necessary?

@vincentcummings5508

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry I found your answer: Thomas Bowes 5 years ago @kettch42 The air will bleed out through the wall of the pot, eventually, but what I do is put a piece of tubing into the outlet hole of the last pot in a circuit. Essentially, each pot has an "in" and an "out". Usually the "out" goes to the next pot in the circuit, until you get to the last one, where it serves as the bleeder. The bleeder can be plugged with a "goof plug", or left open and tied to a stake so that the end is higher than the level of the water in the bucket.

@baphomet8me

4 жыл бұрын

Having the bleeder tube also makes it much easier to diagnose problems with the system and to get it started up initially.

How toxic is the glue leaking into my plants

@baphomet8me

10 жыл бұрын

According to a chemist friend of mine the glue is inert once it sets up.

@crazysquirrel9425

5 жыл бұрын

same with silicone. Once cured it doesn't release anything. Neither does JB Weld.

dont use your fingers when smudging the silicone. the oils on your hands ruines the silicone over time........kind of like how you dont touch HALOGEN lights because the oils on your hands will blow it too soon. glove will do fine

I can't imagine wanting ollas if there's already drain lines. why combine the two?

@karlInSanDiego

7 жыл бұрын

The ollas only wick out, when the soil outside is dry. So they provide a regulated delivery of water that only happens in direct response to evaporation, plant root uptake, and maybe worms drinking ;^) If you deleted the ollas, you'd be drip watering at an unregulated pace, sometimes overwatering, sometimes underwatering. Sound right?

There is a PDF that links to your videos for examples of olla irrigation, but this is the only one that wasn't private. Would you mind making the others public?

@baphomet8me

Жыл бұрын

This one superseded the others. The earlier ollas used rubber stoppers or silicone caulk instead of drilling holes for the tubing. I found that the rubber stoppers just didn’t last and the silicone caulk just didn’t hold on to the tubing well enough.

@pimpleonureye

Жыл бұрын

@@baphomet8me aw dang, thank you for the quick reply though. I'm working on a system now that daisy chains ollas connected by T fittings that are pushed into a hole I drilled into corks, and then the corks are plugged into the ollas. Currently I'm having some trouble with the water pressure dropping off drastically after it goes to my 2nd raised bed (4th olla in the chain). The sections of tubing between each bed are U shaped with the bottom of the U buried so it doesn't block garden paths. I think they might be blocked by airlocks but I'm not sure. The end of the daisy chain system is still open while I'm testing the design. Rainwater barrel gravity feeds into system and has water level about a foot above the first olla, and then the yard slopes down about 10 degrees for 50ish feet. I haven't seen any other designs online with the "plug" design until I saw your video. Figured it wold be a good way to automate gravity fed ollas and keep the ability to look inside and add/remove them from the line if necessary.

@baphomet8me

Жыл бұрын

@@pimpleonureye You might have better luck with the corks than I had with the rubber stoppers…who knows. Back when we were doing multiple raised beds I think I ran a separate 1/4” irrigation tube to each bed and that worked fairly well, even at long distances.

Why you make new holes for tubbing and you dont use the existing hole putting T connection ??

@baphomet8me

4 жыл бұрын

mou_eipan_na_ksekopsw, it is because it is difficult to keep the hole and fitting sealed. I tried it initially with rubber stoppers and tees, but they didn’t hold up.

@johnskg-qi4yz

4 жыл бұрын

​@@baphomet8me thank you for your answer , i ll try with T connection, i have some ideas to use differen diameter T , i ll make my experiments and i ll inform you.

ΙΣn't this chemical glue leach chemicals to the soil through water?

Where can I get unglazed clay pots and how can I tell?

@baphomet8me

4 жыл бұрын

James McGarity, just about gardening or home improvement store will have them.

Now I'm confused about ollas. If you are constantly filling the ollas, wouldn't you find the first olla that gets the water from the roof, be over-flowing or squirting out of the hole in the olla that holds the pipe to fill the olla with water? I guess you sealed it so that it has not cracks at all but if one of them gets one, then welcome to "not working-ville."

@baphomet8me

9 жыл бұрын

tim mellis Which is why they are connected in groups of five or so with a bleeder tube at the end of the group. If you pull the stopper on the bleed tube and nothing comes out you simply keep working your way back until you get water. It's no big deal to dig one up and fix it.

@timmellis5038

9 жыл бұрын

Sorry for being a jerk. I was having one of those days. Your video is awesome and I was in the early stage of understanding the system and I was in one of my bad moods. Actually the information above about keeping the ollas in groups of 5 helps too.

@jujube2407

3 жыл бұрын

@@baphomet8me how do you do the bleeder tubing at the end? Im totally doing this with my small raised bed in my side yard

@baphomet8me

3 жыл бұрын

@@jujube2407 There are two ways. You can leave the tube open and stake it up higher than the regulator. I choose to plug them as then they don't have to have the ends elevated.

I've been reading up on the net on toxicity and will be using aquarium grade silicone as glue as it is uncertain how carcinogenic polyurethane (base of the glue you use) is when hardened and in contact with water at all time. Given the root systems will be in direct contact with the olla I'm not going to gamble. Also, many PU glues contain a lot of other chemicals that are terribly bad for the soil and plant life. Be sure to read up close on toxicity on all the components of the glue before you are using it!

RIDGEBACK!!!

ide use a nice epoxy

If you are in a cold climate they should be dug up, otherwise they will crack in the winter as the ground temp decreases.

The float is not needed. Gravity fed works just fine. Unless you assembled an ollas poorly....

Glue...TOXIC?

@baphomet8me

4 ай бұрын

I consulted with a chemist who says that the adhesive is inert once it sets up.

@rachelstark2391

4 ай бұрын

@@baphomet8me Ah, ty.

my irrigation tubing are eaten by mice