May have been in the video but what was total cost per plate?

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

Excellent question. So the ceramic costs $1.50 per tile (you'll need two if you want the best plate shown), and the nylon fabric was $7.99 per yard ( it's often sold at 58'' wide and by the yard, you need 50 layers so you'll need a little over 3 yards. I also got this fabric half off so.) and the HDPE can be just grocery bags. So the total cost is $26.97! Really, it depends where you get your nylon from. thanks for the question, should have added it to the video.

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

@@ghostwriter1415 2435 fps, 123gr fmj

@RichardCranium321

Жыл бұрын

​@@Techthisoutmeow any plans to test with something like underwood, Barnes, Fort Scott TUI, anything solid copper? I'm curious to see how the monolithic projectiles do.

@RichardCranium321

Жыл бұрын

​@@Techthisoutmeow also, you forgot to add $0.69 for the duct tape.

@willholly1844

Жыл бұрын

​@@RichardCranium321We can guess how they'll perform. Same as just about all other armor.

For those iffy on it; just remember. Like 3D printed firearms (at this time anyway) It only has to work long and well enough for you to pick up factory made gear. Having this improvised armor is FAR better than not having it at all given how it will stop any pistol cartridge, protect against stabs/blunt shots, etc.

@CrazyIvan865

8 ай бұрын

True. But I feel if SHTF.... most everyone is gonna have green-tip M855. You can buy surplus bulk fairly cheap... peppers have it, gangs have it, anyone who might want to maybe do anything tyrannical would have it. If there were a Trojan horse of millions of military aged men from other countries that made it through the border to away a Trojan horse invasion from within... they'd have it... More or less, if you can't stop green tip... the wY I see it, that's the real issue. We're not gonna have to worry about cheap street thugs with Hi-points. For the average day to day, absolutely. But for a more serious situation than so e punk at the gas station... if it isn't stopping greentip or 7.62×54.... it's not worth having.

@varun009

19 күн бұрын

Actually, it's even simplest than that. If you get hit by a rifle round and even if it stops it, you're still gonna be out of the fight to where the enemy either can't get follow up shots or the enemy can while you can't react. It's like getting hit with a sledgehammer in the chest, believe me, armor prevents penetratuon but the concussive force will knock you off your feet.

You by far are the most thorough at making and properly testing homemade bulletproof body armor out of every other KZreadr on KZread, I've watched all of them. I hope your channel reaches a million subscribers. Keep up the good work, I'll be building a bulletproof dark knight inspired batsuit in a little while using some of your concept and some inspiration from your videos on hdpe and composites. I'm going to film it for KZread. ❤

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words, one day it'll take off lol. And I can't wait to see the suit brother! Let me know when you upload something on it and I'll shout it out for others to see!

@DavidSmith-vz9uu

Жыл бұрын

@@Techthisoutmeow okay I will, and it will be my other account, my channel name is called "TECHIE UNUSUAL" it will be for making life hacks, gadgets, tactical gear, weapons, pyrotechnics etc. kinda like the KZread channel "hacksmith industries" except ill be making most of my content out of HDPE plastic which is from inspiration from your content.

@ljrandom147

11 ай бұрын

​@@Techthisoutmeowyeah me too, I ove your armor making and channel.

@ljrandom147

11 ай бұрын

​@@TechthisoutmeowIm so looking forward to your jeep project

@ljrandom147

11 ай бұрын

​@@TechthisoutmeowI'm actually in the process of making a shield Myself

I actually used a cheap carbon fiber/kevlar blend wrapped around some of my steel plates as a spall jacket. I used a bedliner as an adhesive, wrapped it in shrink wrap, taped everything up and then used the front wheels of my truck over the lawn to apply pressure overnight. Used an ar500 steel target as a test run before applying it to my plates, and with wrapping every other layer completely around the plate, at 10 total layers, it took well over 120 rounds of m193 before I started to see delamination. Im not sure how much weight it added, as those steel plates are only used as backups for my 1155s, so weighing them hasnt been a concern of mine. But that may be a good way for you to look at a ceramic plate backer, assuming it isnt too heavy. Wrapping a few layers completely around the ceramic plate would also help prevent delamination, and would help hold the ceramic together longer.

Try putting the grill in a vacuum chamber to evacuate the air. Use a low cost HVAC pump or a hand held much lower cost brake pump. Removing the air will likely give you better layer adhesion.

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

Simular to an autoclave in that regard, well I'm not sure if autoclaves pull vacuum. 🤔 either way, pulling a vacuum is both safer and easier to set up, I like the idea. Thanks for the suggestion

@jaredharvey1511

Жыл бұрын

@@Techthisoutmeow my experience with autoclave is that they don't typically vacuum. Typically slight increase in pressure. However I could be wrong about that. Autoclave goal is to get things hot. While you can make steam with a vacuum typically the purpose of autoclave is to get things hot to kill germs and bacteria.

@MagVair

8 ай бұрын

Autoclaves, when used in composites, provide pressure & heat. They are often used in conjunction with vacuum bagging. It's a force multiplier for the clamping pressure of the vacuum bag as well as a controled thermal environment to aid in the curing properties of the resins.

@roosterqmoney

8 ай бұрын

a large vacuum chamber, large enough to fit the grill in with penetrations for power, that was strong enough to pull a strong vacuum would probably be cost and space prohibitive.

@MagVair

7 ай бұрын

@@roosterqmoney if the composites are in a vacuum bag between 2 plates, the grill is no longer necessary. Then by placing the vacuum bag in a pressure vessel (think a small, sealed, metal box ) that could then be placed in an oven, Bob'syour uncle! 🙂👍. If your vacuum bag is leak free and maintains vacuum, the amount of pressure necessary is minimal because its a force multiplier. Any household oven can provide and sustain sufficient heat for this project.

You could also make model aircraft and RC boats out of this stuff

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

That would be fun to try! It's extremely easy to mold hdpe at home.

@kingmasterlord

9 ай бұрын

or a more lore-accurate cosplay

Have you ever heard or experimented with ripstop nylon? I used to buy old cars with the CV boot out. Then I made a CV boot out of that ripstop nylon from the fabric store. They also make a polyester roofing underlayment that's pretty tough. I think it would melt and stick to the high-density polyethylene pretty well and alternating layers of that stuff might give you quite a bit of strength because the ripstop nylon really spreads energy well.

16:19 If you put a piece of card board behind the armor you're testing it should clearly show if the plate has been defeated with a passthrough round or fragment.

I love making serviceable gear from household products. This is awesome!

Always thought about synthetic roofing felt, heat, pressure and layers + ceramic(almost forgot) been a while since I've touch back on this research area .. good work sir 👍

I love the "cheap and dirty" approach, however you would get more consistent lamination with fewer voids if you could figure out a way to do this under vacuum clamping so it was even across the whole surface of the plate as it laminates.

This is what makes KZread great. Thank you sir for making great content

Very impressive and hopeful Can’t wait to see your next adventure sir Truly impressed

Great information, lots of room for improvement. Not that you did anything wrong, in fact, everything you did is awesome. Showing how to laminate and ease of access to all components. You rock! Keep up the amazing work. This is truly turning into a game changer!

@Techthisoutmeow

8 ай бұрын

Thanks for the kind words, more to come soon!

Keep it up! You're doing the Lord's work

Hot damn this channel is underrated! I love your work bro. And will be sharing your material tomorrow.

Thank you!!! Amazing video(so far only a few minutes in :)) I appreciate your content extremely.

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

Not a problem, glad I could help!

you could use a granite sink cut out on the top. those are super smooth and cheap and heavy and will spread the pressure super even.

Great to see more videos

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, more to come soon!

OMG !! I've been looking for you for months, I've collected a ton of cut-up milk jugs, ( boxes full ) and I also got a store to sell me complete boxes of shopping bags , and of really thick plastic compared to most types , I have 4 boxes with 500 bags per box all tightly stacked together, Im still want to make my own armor that works !1

@Zane-It

Жыл бұрын

Be careful because if you hord too much then it will become more dangerous than a rifle

@TOMAS-lh4er

Жыл бұрын

@@Zane-It

@TOMAS-lh4er

Жыл бұрын

@@Zane-It HaHa thanks

@Zane-It

Жыл бұрын

@@another3997 tell that to OG milk jug rifle plates + not everyone has BillGatescoin.

@nemesisobsidian

10 ай бұрын

You've got way more bags than I do. I've only managed to cut and neatly fold about 450 Walmart bags. And I probably have about 500-600 more saved up that I'm in the process of going through right now. Realistically I'm aiming to save up a total of around 5,000 to 10,000 Walmart bags. Hopefully that's enough material for me to make dozens of rifle plates.

Nice work sir.

Nice work brother

Good stuff!!

Great video!

Damn! I’m very impressed that it stop the rifle round

The plates are starting to look alot more valuable, I was just wondering about a double bandolier plate carrier brace from over the shoulder to under the opposite armpit, with getting shrapnel in the side sometimes too, and I was just watching a cool no hand shield strap to the body on skalligrim that gives me some ideas for my future shield.

Nice work

I haven't seen the video yet but I know your content will always dress to impress and is well received every time you make an upload. I was wondering if you're planning on revisiting the "stopping rifle rounds with recycled milk jug plates" and applying those test samples to full 10x12 sapi plates as part of your ongoing series as well. I'm also wondering if you're still planning to show us annealing of High Density Polyethylene as well. But anyways, thanks again for showing us how to manipulate simple readily available materials into working pieces of armor and thank you for finding cheaper alternatives that will save our lives and our wallets. We really appreciate that!!!! 👍

Awesome shirt.

great stuff as always my man. c u in the next one. looking forward to the next car vid as well.

Wow so nice yay

I've thought of using hardening materials to make my own body armour too. Like steel mesh sheets and grinded steel with ceramic mix with the powder steel from the grinded steel for the mixture instead of ceramic, and hardening and tempering too see if it'll actually work, and asking a gun range to test different calibers on it.

I don't know if you have already done it, but if not, use individual hexagonal tiles so the damage is only localized to one or two tiles instead of the whole tile.

@vevenaneathna

Жыл бұрын

this is gone over in his first or 2nd video. he briefly mentions the cost difference of the porcelain mosaic tile. i think youre right though as for a finished product, but its much more expensive than single tiles for now

@highmolecularweightRDX

Жыл бұрын

He has a tile cutter, but it would take too much time for a simple test plate.

@ATruckCampbell

Жыл бұрын

@@highmolecularweightRDX You can buy shaped individual tiles.

@nateb4543

7 ай бұрын

2 layers. A lot of seams with the hex tiles. I've wondered what the best material (flexible) to encase the tile layer in. Something to hold it all in place when its shot so it may take multiple shots a little better

Just a lil comment for Al Gores Rhythm Thank you for continuing the lords work in providing cheap and effective means of defense. You’re a good man Charlie Brown.

I was totally not expecting to stop the riffle round

Awesome!

Impressive.

Try using a vacuum pump to draw down an oven cooking bag with your form and layers inside. Not only will it remove air bubbles but will provide a much higher total pressure on the form.

If you can get hold of a bunch of used up,chipped tungsten carbide cutting bits from a machine shop,you could fuse them into a HDPE plate. Carbide will chew up any bullet,and if you can hold them in their place, it will stop AP rounds as well.

@jamessouza7065

11 күн бұрын

As good?; just as good?., or not as good as sand? sand / tungsten at shredding bullets?

I've got an idea. A little more costly maybe. Cordura nylon (non-urethane coated), fiberglass, steel flashing (thin layers, not thing layers) and aluminum flashing (again, thing material) and rubberized dip with a handful or 2 of plaster or caramoc dust mixed in. The aluminup was impressive, steel plates are also impressive. The ceramic plates seem to take the energy out well; but they basically turn to dust after a few rounds. More or less layer the nylon, fiberglass, steel flashing, fiberglass, nylon. Then make similar layers with aluminum flashing in between in place of the steel flashing. Then bond steel sandwich, aluminum sandwich alternating; so that you have 3 layers of steel flashing and 3 layers of aluminum flashing, 12 layers of cordura nylon and 12 layers of fiberglass, all soaked with a rubberized dip (it may have to be thinned a littls bit with some form of thinner which will eventually dry). More or less, the idea is instead of having a hard resing thats prone to cracking, or holding the fabrick layers stiff; you have a bonding medium that will allow fhe fibers to flex and stretch a little. And all the different layers all provide their own drag or resistence to the round. Eben better, cut half the layers on the bias (so that the threads run diagonally in an X pattern) and half the fabric layers on the verticle (so that the threads form a cross pattern) and put it so that no 2 layers are aligned back to back. So like... all the nylon layers .ake crosses and all the fiberglass layers make Xes. Or vice versa. It may need more than 3 layers of steel, 3 layers of aluminum, 12 layers of nylon and 12 layers of fiberglass. But it woukd be neat to see if something like that around 7 to 8 pounds would do. In all honesty... if it wont stop green tip, it wont stop much. Because everybody and their brother has green tip (M855) now days.

@wth......53

7 ай бұрын

Wow that's one hell of an idea, sounds like it might be a bit spendy but you know what can you really put a price on your life, the rubber coating are you specifically talking as a poly urethane?

@CrazyIvan865

7 ай бұрын

@@wth......53 eh... if you think about it, probably most of the materials can be found in construction/ demo dumpsters. And the rubber coatings... They're like a polyurethane... the ones I mentioned are very pricy. But I remember years ago there was one that was almost the same that was used for bars and restaurants tables that was a self healing eurethane. Like the tables at Sunny's pit BBQ used to be. That THICK yellow coating of eurethane that always feels slightly tacky or rubbery. And you could put a little groove in it with your finger nail or base of your fork, and by the end of dinner it would be gone. I haven't been able to find it in about 10 years. But that stuff was about $20-30 a gallon a simple no much brush/pour on and would be ideal.

@wth......53

7 ай бұрын

@@CrazyIvan865 I know exactly what you're talking about I got some friends of mine that builds hotels, and at casinos I'm sure I could find out the name of that stuff, I was also thinking that fiberglass resin what would happen if you poured it say 3 in thick in a mold with the catalyst I wonder how strong that would be, with just the resin on its own at 3" thick

we need a frequently asked questions video. That way everyone can get on the same page. It would also help show people whats still needed. Maybe you already did this? Sorry if so. Im gonna leave a like too.

I suggest you look into silk. Historically, silk shirts stopped arrows. They would not part as the arrow went into the flesh, allowing the shirt to extract the arrow, thus avoiding infection.

Look at how DIY skateboards are made with vacuum bag lamination. You could do the same thing here and stick the griddle+plate material inside of one. They're called TAP (Thin Air Press) bags and are fairly cheap and often come with hand pumps.. Though running the cord would be a problem and would require you to cut/mod the bag

Great results. Did you ever tried laminating glass fiber MESH into HDPE from jugs? I found your earlier videos where you shot to pure HDPE block, and most bullets that passed through look like they "melted" their way through plastic. Adding mesh to HDPE could prevent it from stretching too much, but still rely on the friction stopping of the bullet instead of delaminating layers.

I really appreciate you showing me a higher and better use for all the plastic bags my wife collects so I can make an extra trip to Walmart to get rid of them. Your work on improvised body armor is impressive. Usually, it turns out you can only have two of the three choices of effectiveness, cost, and lightweight for body armor. You are homing in on all three. I'm not sure how the sharp edges of sandblasting grit will affect the integrity of the Aluminum Oxide and UDP composite panels you gave us a peek at? However, #8 AlO3 sandblasting grit is from 1/16 to 1/8-inch in diameter. That size or smaller might be used to increase the density of Aluminum Oxide in the composite panel.

Genius

A tape measure with both imperial and metric would be helpful for a global audience

@williwonti

Жыл бұрын

You are on the internet

Just saw this on another channel, have you thought of doing a interlayer of epoxy-sawdust/carborundum? This should help with cracking/splitting that I am seeing in your current HDPE/nylon composite, and the carborundum should help resist/deform hard steel penetrators.

Looks like I know how many layers of this composite I will be using for my armor along with HDPE/fiberglass + PET/fiberglass matrix composite for my torso. I really hope that ceramic ball strike face holds up really well especially against sustained rifle fire. It would be nice to have a strike face with an insanely high multi hit capability so any composite armor you come up with could withstand hundreds/thousands of rifle bullets without failing instead of stopping only 5 or 6 consecutive hits if you're lucky. But I know that would be an impossible thing to achieve.

Dragon skin armor supposedly used silicone carbide ceramic disks. I believe they use something similar, and reinforced with fiberglass in metal cut-off wheels. Just something to test.

Very nice t-shirt! Somehow, I am not surprised at all that you are my christian brother! Cheers from France.

I’d love to see you try a quartzite tile instead of a ceramic Its basically the hardest tile you can get at the hardware store You might be able to get away with using only one layer of tile instead of two

@highmolecularweightRDX

Жыл бұрын

It's also stupidly heavy. Knife sharpening stones are made of aluminum oxide, maybe they would work? You can get them pretty cheap from china.

@nemesisobsidian

Жыл бұрын

@@highmolecularweightRDX stupidly heavy is how I like it with my armor, even though that's not for everyone. If his claim about the quartzite tile being the hardest tile you can get at a hardware store rings true then it would be another perfect candidate in the long list of materials I'm looking into for my bulletproof exoskeleton.

@wth......53

7 ай бұрын

I've never heard of quartzite tile before, I may have to check that out.

@Bryant-gi5sx

5 ай бұрын

​@@nemesisobsidianstupid heavy is how you prefer your armor? I'm confused as to where the benefit is, it massively limits movement and speed. If you're taking fire those are both things necessary for survival.

@nemesisobsidian

5 ай бұрын

@@Bryant-gi5sx What I'm trying to do is find the densest materials possible that can be used for armor while trying to keep everything reasonably light. I realize Quartzite may be a bit hefty, but if you combine it with something that weighs almost nothing like HDPE, then the trade off could be worth it. I can probably handle armor that's a little heavier than what most people are comfortable with as I used to be able to lift and carry large CRT Television sets when I was 14 that weighed 90-100 lbs. each.

I'd be interested to see what the results are like with silk.

I will have to try make one of these as we are not allowed to have them in the UK. But if you can make your own why not.

You might try incorporating dispersive geometry, to utilize cancellations, and drastically increasing your weight to stopping power ratio. Perhaps some offset honeycomb pattern, could disperse the energies more efficiently, allowing for all around better performance?

Add in a couple layers of fine steel mesh coated in ceramic along with fiberglass layers and sandwiched between two fine steel mesh plates it'll stop just bout anything you shoot at it. ^__^

Here's a trick for visualising deformation and detecting faults which the Japanese use for monitoring concrete faults: glue on a sheet of paper to the fault surface (plate back), then paint the sheet of paper using egg white or glue with a coat of fine strontium aluminate glow powder. You will get a mechanoluminescent flash and glow where the deformation occurs so you can see what has happened that would otherwise be hidden under layers.

Considering you are testing the material at basically point blank range, your designs are AWESOME!!! How would they hold up at a further distance? Again, you are providing much info and opening thinking for others. If we all work together, at some point, we will be able to design some plate that will stop nearly everything. Thanks for doing so much research.

A composite that I’ve come cross is when you thermal bond ceramic particle in between layers of uhwmpe

Hi just wanted to throw out an idea for future builds. I saw a cool video of plexiglass being dissolved in acetone and think that this could be used in place of resin when building kevlar or fiberglass plates. In theory you would have a solid plate which could be thermoformed to shape it after the initial curing of the acetione. Keep up the great work on inovative videos

@nemesisobsidian

10 ай бұрын

Isn't plexiglass another name for Polycarbonate? Or is that Acrylic? I'm confused now lol. Yes you could do that, technically I always thought dissolution of Polystyrene or ABS plastic in acetone would be a good polymer resin for Fiberglass or Nylon fabric adhesion since melting any styrene type of plastic in an oven is really dangerous. Melting Polystyrene or ABS using any kind of heat can cause the plastic to release fumes that are highly toxic and can be deadly if you breathe them in. The only way to melt them down safely is by soaking them in Acetone PS melts pretty quickly in Acetone ABS takes a little longer to melt but it will fully dissolve in Acetone eventually if left in it long enough. I'm kind of interested in what would happen if we explored other recyclable plastics as resins/adhesives for fabric reinforcement for diy composite body armor. Could we theoretically be able to make stronger ballistic plates that can withstand bigger beefier meaner big boi rifle cartridges without much risk of serious injury to the wearer of said plates? I have pondered this very demanding question in desperate need of an honest answer for quite some time now. It's the very reason I've been pestering Tech to try PET plastic resin for fiberglass reinforcement for armor plates instead of HDPE since we already know the result of using that for a resin would be. 3+ rifle rated diy sapi bordering level 3x since it almost defeated a 7.62x54R LPS out of a Mosin w/ a 29 inch barrel. And the reason the need of an answer to this is so desperate is because half of America lost it's mind no thanks to a disgruntled 77 year old man who cried election fraud repeatedly on social media and people started getting really crazy and violent shortly afterwards. And I fear that dark times may once again soon be upon us in a little more than a year from now.

@parri0923

6 ай бұрын

@@nemesisobsidian what supporters of 45 got violent? Only one person was killed during Jan6 and it was a protester.

Try some tungsten carbide bearings in your new strike faces. Theyre really heavy, obviously, but their hardness is off the charts.

Here is a interesting chalange for you (I'm going to copy paste this comment on afew videos so you notice it)... Fiberglass balistic helmet or just a full diy balistic helmet series including back face deformation testing. My idea is a fiberglass helmet with thin steel bars impeded on the inner layers of fiberglass forming a lattice shape to prevent serious back face deformation.

get 2 cast iron frying pans, with a decent volume, fill them both with a soft resin, with alot of fiberglass embedded in it, then put them together in the same orientation but mirrored so the inside where the food would go is facing each other, then glue them together with a load of super glue, and wrap the seam with flex tape, and cover it in flex seal liquid for anti spall coat. and then put a paracord or something through the hole in the handle and wear it like a pendant. you could also instead of doing 2 together, do one on each side where the bottom of the pan is the strike face, so there is protection front and back. or do 2 on the front and 2 on the back. my thinking is the cast iron will stop everything like, 9mm/ .45 and below, and for higher power rounds it will break up the round and the resin with fiberglass will slow/catch the bullet, and if that fails, it will at least not have enough energy to get through the cast iron in the back of the 2 pan model.

I’ve used a 3/4” hdpe front plate to dissipate most of the energy from 556

We need an update video asap!!

Here's some food for though: Every layer plays a vital roll in slowing and stopping the projectile. Try adding glass and arimid back into the mix? For example: try a plate combination that layers Nylon, Glass, Arimid, Nylon, glass, Arimid..etc. Also if you use a flexible adhesive to glue your ceramic strike plates onto the composite panel, when they are broken by impact, all the pieces will stay in place, providing an advantage for subsequent impacts.? Multiple coats of Contact adhesive is what I'm thinking...?

Even it gets through, *the loss of energy will make the projectile far less injurious.*

Attach some drywall mesh behind the ceramic to see if it will hold it together better.

Luxury is having a place you can shoot anytime you want.

Maybe get another griddle and sandwich the plates between the two or try using boards to help distribute the force of your clamps

If you can constrain the right ceramic plate within a steel matrix you'd be surprised at what it can do. A cheapo version. Pocket out/machine a 10mm aluminum plate, heat it, then insert a building tile that has been cooled down. The key is to have the tile constrained by the aluminium/steel on all surfaces bar the strike surface.

Try Carbon Fiber plates coated with Ceramic Graphene auto paint polish and or Truck bedliner, sandwiched with neoprene (wetsuit) material for energy absorbtion. Combinations of this could be ultra lightweight!

Teflon grilling mats will work in place of the parchment paper and is reusable

ceramics must be divided into segments so that when hit, only a certain area is destroyed, but not the entire surface. And yet, the rear catching layer should not be soldered, but preferably consist of movable layers, this way better catching occurs.

I wonder if you can use those hex-tile on fabric mesh, tile things for backsplashes, in alternating layers if you need to make complex shapes,

Ceramic is heavy and the goal is to have ultralight-fibers stop the projectile with roughly uniform deceleration from the moment of contact through the stopping-point (before penetration). So, a trampoline-effect. Failure mechanisms are spalling, non-uniform deformation, burning and sharp-edges of either the projectile or ballistic-materials. Starting from these (and other) first-principles, it might seem best the projectile deform as little as possible upon impact, but if deformation isn't avoidable, it occur early and smoothly, without sharp edges. So maybe a thin outer layer of copper that'll stretch (and conduct heat), containing initial impact-loading, without creating sharp-edges regardless hollow-point, etc.. Next bonded-layer, Dyneema-Composite-Fabric (DCF). Ultra-fabric. Few layers of Ultra-400 (cheaper) or more layers of Ultra-100 (lighter?) - to catch/trampoline the projectile. Kevlar seems less desirable, because it's more brittle and snaps at failure, where DCF stretches more. Looking for stretch, not brittle/snapping. On the macro-world of first-glances, DCF seems to have no stretch, but at 30k fps, DCF stretches just about as much would want for a 4-5cm plate. Third bonded-layer might be an ultralight foam rubber, perhaps an EVA-foam (Ethylene-vinyl acetate)? It merely needs to support the stretching DCF (which is doing most of the work) without tearing or yielding to the stretching DCF. Third-layer foam need only hold-back the DCF-fabric, not an ounce of force from the bullet itself. Ceramic-layer simply doesn't fit the purpose. It's heavy and yields with sharp-edges. Those edges wreak-havoc on the trampoline effect. Of course, virtually every plate ever made uses a ceramic-plate inside, but that shouldn't need to be the case with modern-materials. Consider bullet-launch: Bullets accelerate evenly, thus launch-shock is absorbed by a relatively small shoulder butt-pad. Deceleration should occur likewise. Evenly and spread over as large an area as possible. Solids, such as ceramic transmit impact and don't spread forces well. Any force they do spread, also spread fractures. This is no way to make a plate. Let DCF do the spreading. Prevent burning and spalling from cutting through the DCF upfront, and plates could (and should) be under one-pound. Bonding's purpose is to ensure spreading forces. Bonding each stretchable-layer to the other ensures the trampoline effect. Even the plate-edges should be well-bonded to each layer (to prevent delamination).

Just Love Your Videos! And Big Thanks for the Idea with that Griddle! Any Idea of baking Hardox500 Plates into HDPE? HDPE would Act as the Spall Liner and the Hardox500 that is similar then AR500 takes the Hits? Maybe some Nylon or Fiberglass mixed with Resin on top of the HDPE. Good Idea or Overkill? What can be Problematic? Thanks again for your Work!

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

I've been interested in the idea of using HDPE as a spall/frag coating, I bet it would work great. With steel that is something you do have to consider, and I imagine adding fiber reforcment would only help. So yeah, that would be a fun experiment to try!

Great videos! Earned a sub from me. I’m curious if you’ve thought about coating these in bed-liner? might add some weight but would it also hold the product together in a multi strike scenario?

I was a,so wondering about how the surface of the strike plate effects things. I’ve experimented with making high carbon steel hardened armor, and saw a super aggressive Ferriers rasp and thought it could chew the bullet up easier.

What you thought about using feed bags? The weaved kind would provide a few layers per bag.

I love watching your progress on this. Ive been doing my own experiments, and i have several different designs for pistol/rifle. Is the discord still active? Id love to share some testing pics and data.

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Here's the discord link: discord.gg/9rugntCTaQ would love to see what you've been working on

Do you have a scaled template for cutting the nylon? You've got my wheels turning. Also, how do you get the bends in the layers??? Great info for the DIY "maker".

Just watched a shadiversity vid on tire armor that stopped arrows and most blows(other than a thick spike on the back of an axe) and it got me thinking what if you cut out a piece of steel belted tire the size of one of your plates and used rubber glue or something to bond it to said plate would that up the stopping power for higher calibers? Old Tires are everwhere and if you have old plates you made that can still take a hit or two it could be something you can bash out pretty quick. Downside I see is it would up the weight quite abit

Have you tried "painting" those ceramic tiles with resin? Perhaps you have and I missed it but it might keep them together longer 🤷.

I wonder if u add like 1/8 thick titanium panels and got rid of some of the excess if itll be rifle rated and light weight

I say balsa wood strike face with a styrofoam core. Light weight and floats too. The best idea right?

Ceramic plate is one time only. Newtonian liquid is known to be able to absorb energy by impact. Currently I don't have any idea how to implement newtonian liquid into the armor thgough.

Your metal sheet looks like aluminum. Aluminum act like a heat sink, may not help with your heating. maybe add a layer of neoprene rubber for a little insulation and should help with any deviations in the surface. Very interesting.

@nemesisobsidian

8 ай бұрын

That's why I use A36 material when molding and working with plastic. A36, or any other kind of steel is a better conductor of heat than aluminum.

Have you considered using actual uhwmpe fabric layers with nylon? Only about 100 dollars for enough material to have a 3a rating for the fabric, could be super light rifle rating with nylon and a ceramic strike face.

what would be the difference with a steel strike plate vs a ceramic in a build like this?

Can you test ABS plastic?

what about 15 layers of printed circuit boards laminated together? I wonder how that would do...

So the HDPE bags are to "replace" the dyneema/kevlar layers, right?

HOW about putting the marbles in a pan so that touch each other , then melt a thin layer of plastic over them and down around them to hold them in the shape of a plate when you laminate them with other things , get rid of all that space I saw @ 22:00 .

@Techthisoutmeow

Жыл бұрын

Not a bad idea! I've been doing something similar to that, basically adding a bit of hdpe to the bottom, then adding hdpe above the marbles and pressing them together. Still working out the best method, but I got a lot of marbles to practice with. Thanks for the suggestion!

Have you thought about using Kevlar material instead of the nylon material?

It occurs that body isnt the only use. What about armoring up a door or putting a bunch of this inside the walls of a "safer"room hard to shoot through equals longer to cut through so you could have a whole room be a low key, looks like a nice normal room that will buy you a good long time for help to come.

@nopenope9945

3 ай бұрын

Or a car door. Mad Max it up a bit. I wonder if the weight would be better than like ar500 in vehicles? A madax sand rail with a viper crate motor. Mounted .50 in the roof. Oh that would be fun. I wonder what the laws are on that, if it is semi auto can I rig up servos as long as I am firing manually?

What about the Dollarama bags layered using polyethylene?

can you make bulletproof aramid with vacuum resin infusion technique?

id like to see the same thing done with carbon fiber

Try to orient wires of some layer of cloth diagonally also.