I applaud your videos because this is what the customer of the viewer is going through they're in the street somewhere stranded not in a repair shop where they have all tools and batteries to change immediately this is the people who watch all channels about electronics

I just passed my L1 test today. Thank you Paul for your video lectures and cases studies, it really helped me a lot!

@jayuelxoom

10 жыл бұрын

Congratulations Doy:)

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

That is awesome! Thanks for sharing my friend

Thanks Paul for showing us this. It never gets old. All cars are different and changing all the time.

Well, this is my third comment on this video. I just watched it again this morning. Once again I say, these old SD videos r gold. Why? We have a lot of old cars out here in California that people still want fixed. This vid demonstrates the value of having a Vantage. That info on the old cars is very valuable. The use of a test light to verify if u have spark is a super cool way to do it so u can avoid a shock. Also, a bad sensor waking up intermittently is a lesson we can all benefit from. Looking at the wave form on the Vantage, adjusting the time base, what amplitude is all things that help us in our work. And great filming btw.

THANK YOU for your invitation Mr. Danner but I'm here in Los Angeles CA and I love your e-book.

DEAR SIR: YOU ARE BORN TO BE THE TOP OF THE LINE INTO DIAGNOSTISTICS, YOU ARE REALLY BLESSED BY YOUR GOD. EVERY STEP OF THE WAY YOU MAKE LOGIC AGAIN AND AGAIN WE ARE LUCKY TO HAVE YOU AS OUR IDEAL. THANKS A MILLION I AM 75 YEARS OLD AND RETIRED. I DID WORK FOR FANCY DEALERS IN BEVERLY HILLS ALONG WITH A LOT OF MOVIE STARS WHO WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE YOUR KNOWLEDGE.

@ScannerDanner

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you my friend. I am blessed indeed to have this platform and may I glorify Him all the more with it, as the time approaches.

Dear Mr. Danner, Thank you indeed for your lovely videos. One note over the crank sensor is that maybe sometime a dirt stuck on the sensor or the plate that runs through it that might cause an unjustifiable no start, so an air pressure around the crank sensor might dissolve the dirt , just FYI, I love your videos.

I have a 1997 Continental which once or twice a year has a no start problem. It has had two crank sensor harnesses and seven new sensors, by Lincoln mechanics and others. Best fix for 75 starts had been RTV of the connector and sensor. The problem seems to be the harness cable is supported too far away from the sensor, such that the harness is displaced when responding to road input shocks and vibrations. Love the car otherwise. I plan to better support the harness closer to the cable. This is verified by my pulling on a wire hook fashioned to fit under harness. A slight pull on harness restores the start OK. Hope this helps. I like your video; very informative.

To my faithful viewers. It is possible that there was a wiring or connection problem. But given my circumstances, I could not do further testing nor did I think it was necessary. I touched no other part of that circuit. Wires do not fix themselves, so I am not worried about an open or short. (not to mention a short would have lit my test light during the bypass test) I do know that wiring problems can do similar types of things but the key is current flow, current flow once it starts is what keeps it together. Stop the current flow and the circuit is dead again (open circuit type issue). We did not see that. Could it have been a loose PCM pin? I suppose but that can be easily fixed after a new crank sensor is installed if there is still an issue. I realize this is not ideal thinking but it is reality sometimes on these intermittent issues. How much more time do we spend doing testing? Is it always worth it? Here is another key component. How many loose PCM pins have your seen on Fords? Is the crank sensor wiring in a bad location and is known for issues? Experience will dictate your next move in these situations. In this case, I'm changing the crank sensor before going crazy on this circuit. Don't forget, I was in a gravel parking lot and COULD NOT get to the crank sensor. You guys are AWESOME in your responses to me. All of you that mentioned wiring and PCM pin problems have been watching to many of my videos! You are so right in asking me that! Thank you all so much

@GRUSSNewton

10 жыл бұрын

Paul Really good 'real time' video although the editing must of took you longer than the diagnosis... I'm always using your testing methods at work and 'in the field' before deciding on a failed component. I've even used the basic 5v pull up/pull down system design info in one of my own videos (please feel free to check out :-) I used it to fix 90's hori arcade stick. Great video from a great teacher!

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

GRUSS Newton post the link here my friend. Thanks!

@peterfiedfm5104

7 жыл бұрын

A lincoln motor has a extra wires connected to the battery negative and positive, you need to check the connectors at that point, usually it's gray if it's pulled apart the car wont start but will spin the motor. Also Make sure that a spider has not made a little home in the mass air flow sensor. I have never replaced a crank shaft sensor on a lincoln motor, because it has a chain not belt. *The other thing that will cause this condition is the Temperature sender. This car could be lacking an actual cooling sensor it could be using the other sensors for that reading my 98 does that and that sensor is nonsense, its definitely not reading the correct temperature, its basicly a thermistor.. What happens is that its may control the cooling fans as well, on one of my cars, it turns the fan on at 221F which is clearly too high, and then I had a jaguar same garbage sensor temperature sender, it is not a switch, it chnages ohm readings depending on the temperature outside and on the motor, when that sensor is not working correctly it will not allow the car to start because it doesnt know how much fuel/ air it needs to put out.* This is a problem that could turn on in warmer conditions or colder conditions depending on which way the thermistor that is a temperature sensor/sensor is half broken. I have owned 52 cars and i have had every single weird issue you can imagine. I would bet money on warped temperature sensor.

@davidlee799

7 жыл бұрын

ScannerDanner I have a 2005 crown Victoria that has a no-start condition no injector pulse and no spark after putting a Noid light on the injector harness I don't even have a solid light at all you think it's a crankshaft sensor problem?

@QuantumMind88

7 жыл бұрын

The Idle Air Temperature sensor or are you referring to something else?

Thorough, detailed, educational and professional.

I love these field videos. They are one of my favs. :)

I was told to check a floating ground system such as this with the A/C setting on my multi meter. I don't have a scope and not sure I can justify purchasing one, but there are other ways to test than using a scope. It does help to have a Mitchell diagram though, these are the best wiring diagrams I have ever seen !

i love the way you put your full effort into making this video. thanks soo much!

@aliyuadamu4582

5 жыл бұрын

contagiousFX

Hi from Lithuania, love wach all the videos ,very good step by step explaining showing all the measurements been taken so it makes really easier to understand all the process,good teaching skills!!!

@ScannerDanner

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much! Greetings from the US

Wow. Best video on explaining everything. Subscribed. Thanks

Test light used as a defibrillator to bring a crank sensor back to life, nice!

Watching some of these old vids. Love the Vantage. It’s small and light and starts right up. And u can record on it too. I guess u would say it has a buffer.

Good demonstration of the floating ground concept Paul. Thanks also for the info on the service engine soon light being used for a diagnostic for the crank signal. I will have to try that when my truck dies again, lol. Been having a intermittent no start condition after a hot soak and I have been unlucky to pinpoint it. I'm ready for next time though, I have a spark tester and my fuel pressure gauge in the back, lol. As usual, always good stuff Paul.

Well I certainly appreciate your editing efforts!

I recently started watching and i love your training. You are easy for me to understand. I just ordered your book and i am gonna use it a lot i am sure. Thanks and keep up the great work.

@ScannerDanner

9 жыл бұрын

+AAMCOMARK thank you! email me through my website, send me your receipt and I'll give you a coupon for a free month of my premium channel

@Anthonytheredneck

16 күн бұрын

​​​@@ScannerDanneryou have a book😮? I'm really happy I found your channel! Not surprising the soldering iron can make it work, though that's kinda risky, that soldering iron puts a practically little to not voltage, but could sink a lot of current kinda like an AC stick welder, I'm pretty sure it's the gun type iron love my vintage 100watt iron. So as for as for a signal generator, I could probably craft something up that's current limited in the micro amp range which is still probably more current than the VR senor is producing, but should still be enough. One problem I see is the output impedance of the "signal generator tester" and the muiltple difference's of input impedance of the circuit inside the ecu that process the output of the VR, and the frequency out put as it will very slightly between different manufacturers. That soldering iron puts out a frequency of 60hz which if I'm not mistaken is 1800rpm that can very alot though,depending on the diameter of the rotating assembly the VR is picking up on id say on a gas IC car engine 60hz could actually be in the higher 3000rpm range but there's a lot of variables, ah wait I could make it variable too.

Paul your videos are the best on KZread. I use your techniques all the time at my garage. I really wish you could do some videos on European common rail diesels

@ScannerDannerPremium

10 жыл бұрын

thanks lee fox! I will if I start seeing them. We have basically no diesel cars. A few but not many. Not enough for me to get my hands into them.

@leefox646

10 жыл бұрын

Shame but please keep your eye out

outstanding video and very informative. Don't worry about the ,people complaining about the length of your videos; they can watch the lucky part changers -

@ScannerDanner

5 ай бұрын

Glad you like them!

Thanks for the video! Love it

Keep up the Good work, Thanks, Good on you.

I laughed my heart out when the car started 😂

buy this book best book ever.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

Thanks Jose!

@ermiashelemelekhot5830

7 жыл бұрын

I just did a day ago. I am waiting for it.

Excellent, Informative and Witty

you are an amazing teacher !

Nice vid Danner i liked very much the whole begining to end format and thought progress explanation, for dialog purposes i noticed you were checking for voltage at the inj and coil pack in my diag process i wouldve bypassed those steps knowing that i have no rpm showing up on my rpm one thing i would like to add to the rpm pid when using it for ckp check is to allow more than 5 secounds and give the scanner time to display rpm been bit by that once or twice

Fantastic video, each day I watch your videos, I gain much Experience

@user-uj1xg7hb2u

8 ай бұрын

How to trigger the Crank Position Sensor?, can you explain clearly

It is annoying when the crank sensor starts working again. I've had an old -91 Euro Escort in three times for the same no start problem. I checked spark. No spark. And injection pulse, no injection pulse. And then when taking out the scope and connecting it and cranking, don't you think the car starts. Of course it does. However, the last time it actually acted up when connected and I could call a crank sensor. Good work as usual Paul.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

sucks doesn't it?

Thx u thx u great help dont stop posting

great vid dan good job

thanks man learn a ton :)

Great vids .While searching for High/Low can scope samples on the net i found your great work.Spent a couple of hours now watching.I have also not given up on using a test light as well as using the other very low current testing devices.It appears that when you reconnected up the vantage after trying to induce switching in the crank sensor wires with your test light that your test leads ended up in Ch 1 and 3/4 instead of Common and Ch1.Would explain the no pattern on the Vantage .And you were able to load the crank sensor circuit up so the leads must have had good contact up to that point. Thanks for sharing

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+Auto Elec thanks man! I'll have to go back and look at this when I get time

@autoelec8582

8 жыл бұрын

+ScannerDanner Thanks for the reply, It could also just have been the camera angle that made the leads look too far to the right .I was still watching your vids at midnight last night, great to see and a good stimulator for the Grey matter .With being so busy daily in the w/shop getting the backlog of work out the doors I tend to diagnosing the quickest way I can plus using past experience but i need to make the time to follow up with the scope tests. Do your cars live near the coast seeing the corrosion under the hood. It is great to see you spending the time showing the electrical testing of what you probably already know was faulty before you got the test gear out.

thanks for the video

good job on overlaying the video feeds of the rpm etc.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

thanks!

u good people paul

Grounding one of the inputs to provide a reference might've let you trigger the sensor input with your test light. Since it's differential input, if you let one side float, it will just float along with the other input and differential input is zero. Ground on one side prevents it from floating and +12V shows up in the differential input.

Wonder if you can use a soldering gun and place it near the crank sensor to induct a 60 htz signal into the harness. That may produce a spark. Works on HEI modules.

Love your video , could you use a DMM on ac volts and crank the engine to see an ac volt signal output of crank sensor

With Ford computer, I see a lot of computer pin moisture and not good contact, might be engine running after Scanner Danner removed cover and wiggle wiring harness. Good clip for idea where to start with, thanks Scanner Danner.

Great video, although I thought variable reluctance sensors operate on AC voltage not the DC you used from B+. What approach would you have taken if this was a Hall effect sensor instead? Thanks.

i learn so much from u thanks so much

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+KURDISTAN uk thanks brother

@wangkhamkonyak5205

4 жыл бұрын

Video ..,xxxxx

Buenos videos saludos

Hey Paul, First off, thanks for these videos. I dont get to wrench as much as I'd like to so these keep me sharp. One question though, I see you have a Verus (I have the Verus Pro) and a Vantage with you. Why do you still use the Vantage? It looks like all the component tests are the same in the Verus. Or is there a simplicity that the Vantage offers that I am missing? Thanks and keep up the great work!

forget the helper, why don't you have a bumper switch with all the hi tech gadgets you got?..i love the videos.very in depth and to the point. thanks for the help. you got me out of a bind with my Pontiac.i'm now hoping you could help me with my old ford as well..i'll soon see here..

@ScannerDanner

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mike

Use a magnet to trigger crank sensor screwdriver tip magnetic works really well.

Every video about diagnosing sensors makes me miss my 1980 Ford Fairmont with it's carbureted I-6 engine, I could fix anything on that thing without much more than common hand-tools.

Hey great job again! Whats is the diagnostic suite software you use? Where is it and how much?

Couldn't it have been a bad wire or connection and somehow you disturbed the wiring harness enough to 'fix' it? Would a wiggle test on the wiring harness have helped to see if the crank sensor dropped out or not while it was running? Also, would tapping on the sensor while it was running to see if it dropped out at all have been a good test to help conclude that the sensor was bad as a posed to a bad wire or connection somewhere? Just spitballing some ideas... Thanks for another great video.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

for sure those are possibilities. But I could not get to the sensor to tap on it, nor was the wiring accessible from outside in the parking lot.

Great video my apologies if you have answered this before, but what is the diagnostic software you are using here? Thanks

Good Job, Thanks

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+Rolando Leon thank you!

One question: How did you rule out a wiring issue from the ckp to the computer?

would you also want to not reverse polarity on a scope since some dont protected ground, a signal generator off some scopes could possibly be used for a trigger test

Hey Paul, great video as always, check out the AutoSim automotive sensor simulator, just under $200, probably handy to have in your arsenal.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

good idea thanks!

I would like to know if the obd2 diagnostic code would indicate a faulty crankshaft position sensor ; a faulty computer ?

Could you check resistance through the crank sensor circuit.

Hi there, i have a 54 plate astra. I dont have any issues beside my car driving rough when the car with the spanner comes up, initially i thought that was a service symbol until i plugged into obd2 computer and came up as 'crankshaft sensor bank 1' isit a major issue to resolve?

After back probing that pcm connector and now seeing it starting and running , besides the crank sensor, I would be inclined to remove that 104 pin connector and see if moisture got in and oxidation is starting. Maybe some electrical contact cleaner , and re-seating the pcm connector a few times ?(Even though after losing keep alive memory might need to clean a dirty throttle body or it might not want to idle)

Thank you, I will let you know how I make out

Thank you very much teacher

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+mfs Tech thank you!

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+mfs Tech thank you!

great great work

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+amjad amj thanks amjad

2000 Mazda Miata, loses rpm at high rpm in load ( while driving). spark is good, fuel is also good but looses injector pulse at like 5-7k rpm and engine seems to have low power, has exhaust leak and a whine which might indicate clogged exhaust and at one point it showed MAF low input and I saw that a blockage would call up a MAF code. my question is will a bad/clogged catalytic converter and muffler cause injection pulse to go out? it feels like a rev limiter and does it about 2 times and then continues to go up and does it maybe once, very inconsistent.

Hey Paul, do nowadays car still use the vrs ? the difference between the vrs and hall effect sensor are one have two wires and the other have three wires? right

Hey I have a Mazda rx 8. I lost the key and was trying to get it replaced but they couldnt program it because it couldn't read the ecu. I thought of maybe replacing the ecu. What are your thoughts?

And this is why we teach what we teach on our channels scanner we have no lift to lift the car so we are limited to what we have and what the customer who is stranded

I am wanting to do Neg. ground pulse ! There was one that I was intrested in purchasing but there tech support said it was not safe to use.. it could burnout the ICU-Ignitor...can you please give me advice on which one to buy. Do you have a link? Thank you.

in a couple years you can have your mini-me do your editing for you. my 13 y/o already knows more about computers then i ever will.

Great job,.,

if im getting a signal to the coil but no spark from my plugs, could this mean my crank position sensor is possibly the culprit? already changed new dizzy, checked relay, and im still not getting spark

If the CEL stays ON, when cranking then no signal from the CKP (crank). Good test at 5:20, and 32:20. BTW, I own a Ford (Contour). Moisture on the connector can short out or weaken the CKP signal. WD40 to the rescue! The CKP signal *needs* to be strong (high amplitude sine wave) or else the ECM does diddly.

Straight thuggery @ 34:37-34:38. Lol jk great videos. Keep it up. You have sparked my interest once agian. Mainly in the electronic Diagnostics speacily with the scope. Thanks

I did a wiring test and I'm getting no power or continuity from it.... It goes to the engine fuse box before the BCM. I'm getting good voltage from the PCM.... I just want to put the sensor in... I think the sensor show's signs of weakness or is it possible? It's reading below 2 ohms? My meter fluctuated from 1 and 2, but then again maybe it's fine. Anyway I am certain no continuity in the wire.... Can you help please?

when cranking the engine you notice the rpm gauge not moving if your car has one would tell you crank sensor problem?

hi I have a issue with a 03 s10 4.3 the truck went dead on the road... I checked and there is no spark and no fuel pressure, the fuses and relays look good .. I hope you can reply with any ideas thank you

thanks for sharing Paul, if you would see a weak signal on the scope of sign wave, how many voltage minimum are you inspecting to see on this type of crank sensor, do you measure average or peak to peak. thank you very much I always waiting for your next video.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

I look for at least 500mv peak to peak.

Outstanding video, we appreciate the editing you do, though I imagine it's pretty time consuming! Do you find that VRS sensors fail by giving a weaker and weaker signal or just stop working completely? Thanks.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

It certainly is. I've had to drop my 20 different garages I work for down to 2 or 3. I just need enough case studies now to keep this going. It takes so much time to do this. Anyway, I wouldn't necessarily say I see a pattern here. I have seen them weak, I have seen them just simply fail.

@toyotatechMDT

10 жыл бұрын

That's quite a commitment you've got to us lot then! I certainly appreciate it and I thank you.

@jdean399

10 жыл бұрын

ScannerDanner I agree,thanks for the time you take in presenting your videos,I also appreciate it,I am also a premium subscriber and those videos are excellent and very informative I can most certainly recommend your channel

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

Jonathan Dean Thank you so much Jonathan!

paul four me l am the best, l´m your biggest fan and l learn a lot fron you. thank you

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+alexandro ferreira thank you!

I want to test my ICU-Ignitor on my 1994 Toyota Pickup 22RE Engine and I want to purchase the right Test Light that wont fry my ICU - Coil - ECU.. I have seen other youtube videos that use a certain one that was safe... do you know of one that I should buy?

Paul at 23:56 you had your leads connected to Ch1 and Ch3, you were missing the com connection, that is why you could not see the signal on the screen, I cant think in a quick and dirty way to check this vrs sensor with just our normal 12vdc stuff... but I guess If you Connect a wire between the two lead wires and make a coil and pass side by side a magneto maybe, you could simulate the signal... I don't work on cars every day, If you could try it one day maybe will work!

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

haha, nice catch! I need to go back and watch that part. That was very dumb on my part :) This VRS bypass test works with the test light on all other designs but this floating ground type. I have some other videos where I show it. One in particular that comes to mind is on a Saturn no start that I brought my son Beau with me in the field to troubleshoot.

Wish Puerto Rico would have Your Premium Channel.... Your videos are great... Thanks

Right front was the other right side you were looking on the left side of the engine lol. Floating grounds a whole new way of diagnosing problems

Is there a reason why you are not using a power probe. you can power any circuit from the test light. and if u use the power probe (the hook) you can read resistance and amp on the display.

Hi Paul just a couple of comments, I believe on the wasted spark you have 2 switching leads at the coil, I might have checked both of these in case you had one duff coil, The connections on the crank sensor, I might have tried an ohm test to make sure your connections were ok, and possibly an open circuit sensor, I know how much you like ohms tests :-) Fred UK.

@johnfountain8143

10 жыл бұрын

if you had one duff coil as its a eight cylinder motor it would start on six cylinders !! and you would still see an RPM ..

@gvvq-pi5ml

10 жыл бұрын

John Fountain Hi Yes I am aware of that, I had a 4 cylinder than ran on 2 once..Fred

Hi Paul great video I'm curious who do you use for your wiring diagrams any sites you can suggest?.....Phil

@ScannerDanner

9 жыл бұрын

Phil Schmitt www.scannerdanner.com/forum#/20150619/where-to-get-wiring-diagrams-4839109/

+ScannerDanner. When testing for power in a connection i connect the test light to Battery Negative and probe the connection, if test light lights up. i have power ? what about testing the negative(control) and signal wire ? i hook up test light to Battery positive and crank the vehicle.. if test light flickers means i do have control? Does that apply to any connection that pulses? such as injectors and crankshaft

thanks

Hi Paul, great video! what about the possibility­ of a bad connection somewhere between the sensor and the ECM? That might arc over when you put 12v to the sensor establishing a connection.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

that is always a possibility, but I was comfortable calling the crank sensor. My ability to test the wiring further in the parking lot where the car was, was not possible so I made the call. I hate not being 100% but I'll take 99% in this case.

Using differential signaling is quite common for small signals - when you are dealing with signals on the millivolt scale, you do not want all the noise from body or common ground in your measurements. What does Ford say about the expected magnitude on that signal? As for why bypass may have caused the sensor to come back to life and why the signal is weak, I have at least three theories: 1- wiggled a bad connection back into workable state as many have already said... could have been a short but it could have been an open too - you get no signal out of a floating sensor if either lead is not connected since there is no path for current flow 2- there was short (or open) in the computer or the wiring and bypass tests blew enough of it out for the crank signal to come through 3- the magnet in the crank sensor lost its magnetization (overheated engine?) and the probing sent enough current through the pick-up coil to magnetize metal around it - in this case, I would expect the sensor to die again next time it warms up enough to lose that weak magnetization or possibly from just fading over time

@ScannerDannerPremium

10 жыл бұрын

I like your thought process for sure. Thanks for your contribution. It is well taken.

I got a F150 4.6L and the crank sensor i believe is like right under the A/C compressor it seems my ac compressor is soaked and so are the plugs and sensors around it.. Could this cause a U1900 or U1950 code cause thats the only codes i get. btw My truck wont start either Just crank looks simular to this I really think it could be the Cranksensor but wouldnt it had thrown a P0 Code?

Excellent test, also it seems that 90% of the vehicles you work on are American made? Does that mean there are built cheaper than foreign cars ? Thanks for the video.

Does the Pico automotive scope have an arbitrary waveform generator output? My non automotive pico does it can easily generate a sine wave. I'm sure it would have no problem fooling the computer. Never thought of it till now next time I have a floating ground VRS i'll try it out.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

No it doesn't but that is a great thought!

@Bushougoma

10 жыл бұрын

ScannerDanner Wow even Picos entry level 2000 series scopes have one kind of silly they removed it on the automotive line. It's a really cool function never looked at it before. You can capture a known good crank waveform import it into the AWG and play it back to the PCM sync notch and all. You can also draw it manually or specify a generic wave sine at x hertz, square at x hertz, etc. Guess that's one of the reasons the Pico auto has its own software to remove the AWG function.

hi paul very good yours videos, what's the meaning of pull up or pull down circuit? and how to identified them, thank you, see you cheers

@ScannerDanner

7 жыл бұрын

Go here scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium/chapter-2-switch-inputs/chapter-2-switch-inputs-full/221-chapter-2-switch-inputs-pages-1-7.html There is a 14 day free trial to subscribe. Thank you!

I think to be able to inject pulse on one of the terminal on floating ground crank sensor was to place a 47 microfarad capacitor on one of the wire pin. Then probing your tester that was connected to +bat terminal. The capacitor will act as secondary path of ground crank sensor wire. Probably reseating first the ecu connector might solve the problem earlier.

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

that's a good tip thanks! Oh and it wasn't the ecu connector, it was a bad crank sensor

@rogersy7209

8 жыл бұрын

Regarding the floating ground probing and advice a series condenser to ground... I forgot to mention that a resistor probably 10k ohms must be connected in parallel to the condenser as discharge path. For faster repetition of probing the other wire crank sensor..... I'm an electronic enthusiast and try learning troubleshooting EFI engine.. The above advice was only an idea and I hope will work for you. And your right . I watched some of your awesome videos and mixed up with my analysis and mentioned reseating the ecu connector. LOL.

Hi great video you could try an ohm meter across the pins,using the same technique. As the ohm meter does have a small amount of voltage , might be enough to fool the ecm , this is a test we use , to test electronic circuits,

@petrocksgarage

10 жыл бұрын

The ohm meter produces a steady DC signal, not an sign wave like the crank sensor would. The voltage of the ohm meter would also be very very low (like a few mV depending on your meter), not the 5V the ECM was looking for. So I don't think an ohm meter would help here.

@ElectronicWorkshop

10 жыл бұрын

I have being using this method for years, for testing inputs on processors, that need feedback yes it is a mV dc, and the signal would be mV ac range.

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

I think the voltage would be too low on the ohms scales. Maybe the diode scale would have worked? I should have tried that. Good tip!

@ScannerDanner

10 жыл бұрын

Pet Rock's Garage actually the ECM only typically needs to "see" around 500mv to trigger the AD converter. (to convert to AC sign wave to a digital square wave) This was not a 5v type of sensor.

@ElectronicWorkshop

10 жыл бұрын

diode check would be good there is around 0.6V on these to turn on a transistor or diode,

Since it is a low current signal, could the 12 volts have sort of cleaned off the connections at the sensor plug or as u were pushing on the pins at the computer, that slight physical movement could have reestablished connection? Excellent teaching as usual!!!!

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+Bill Rimmer thanks Bill. There was the possibility of a pin issue at the PCM but it wasn't that. I tested for the signal first BEFORE doing the bypass test. So if it was a pin contact issue, the voltage measurement itself would have fixed the issue. You'll have to take my word on it, that a new crank sensor was the fix.

Paul do you use remote starters much when working alone to crank engine and what do you think of them.

@ScannerDanner

8 жыл бұрын

+martinguitarhd28 I do use them. Just need to be careful, especially with manual transmissions

Hi Paul I have been watching a lot of your vids which to me an oldtimer are great!. You are an excellent teacher. Unfortunately for me I am in the uk and as a result have a european vehicle. What I would like to suggest if its possible is if you could outline for a simpleton. Is what the normal sequence of events that leads to a normal starting /running situation. then to have a series if vids saying what would happen if a certain input failed at a certain point. Or a sensor died or malfunctioned at certain point how and why these inputs/sensor malfunctions have effects on others and the effect on others throughout the engine. You may have detailed this in your book I dont know but I am at the point of asking where can I buy it. Let me know if its possible to produce the suggestions above as it would be really helpful. I am a retired nurse and we always started our training with normal functioning before moving onto abnormal. I am aware that not all systems are designed the same but they maybe similar. with slight deviation from manufacturer to manufacturer. I have been a part-time petrolhead and am pleased to be able focus more on the electronic controls side in my retirement. The mechanical side is not a problem to me at all. but I am personally a keen student and very willing to learn. whatever I have already learned such a lot from you so thanks very much for that. many many thanks Colin Lyne

@ScannerDanner

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Colin! I have exactly what you're looking for on ScannerDanner Premium. There is a 14 day free trial. If you subscribe, then immediately cancel, you'll still get the full 14 days and you will not be charged. Check out the material, a suggestion is to start with my chapter 1 playlist. You do not need my book to follow along. Or maybe start with chapters 21 and 22 (ignition inputs and no start no spark diagnosis). Let me know what you think okay?

@colinlyne1660

7 жыл бұрын

Hey Paul many thanks your a Star!!!

@colinlyne1660

7 жыл бұрын

Hi Paul Yes many thanks for that really kind suggestion cheers Colin

@ScannerDanner

7 жыл бұрын

for sure man. Hope to see you there.

Hi scannerdanner, can you please help??? i'm in Australia and looking at a 1999 Rav4 that was sold to a friend of a friend! it was somehow immobalised in a time frame no more then 30 min window... still turning over and sparking, it fires but wont run! it was driven to its current location and running fine. i noticed a new belt, shock mounts, tiers ect seller worked on it im told so knows somthing!!! now car has been sitting six mounths and a number of wanna be mechanics have did try so cant trust any fresh disterbenses (marks, scratches) i was only a apprentice heavy diesel fitter for 3 years but was 1 of 5 selected from 45 to study at Hastings Deering institute of technology all paid for. i am 30 years old and never taken any of my cars to a mechanic so i feel i have a fair understanding! im wondering your process of illimination for this issue? the seller is a scamming drug user and also owns another rav4 if helpful?