This is very useful , I believe for industrial use 3D printers will go along the path of different kinematics according to what geometry they do best. For tall cylindrical shapes your design is perfect , and so on for other shapes to chose the best kinematics for them just to insure the best performance for all print jobs.

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Gathlock. I agree, I built a polar printer as I believe it has a good print to printer volume ratio, ie it's small for it's print volume, and It requires less print head motion to print the items I need to print.

I just found this looking up on polar printers. Not much other work (especially open source), so keep up the good work!

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Eric will do. Unfortunately the last few months have been difficult so not much progress at the moment. Thanks for the interest! All the best Barry M

Great Work! Good Fortune!

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Joseph! Good fortune to you too! :-)

Keep up the great work. Love the vids

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback, it's always a great feeling to know you appreciate it.

Man, I bet vase mode on this is insanely fast. I can see so many uses already

@CNCModellerUK

3 жыл бұрын

Hi MHG, yeah it's what I designed it for. The main thing is your part needs to be hollow so that you don't need to print too near the origin.

On the note of bearings, 3D Printed (with some good sanding (vibratory perhaps?) ) bearings exist, and with pom filament should (?) work? I'll post the link below to the person who designed one.

@ericlotze7724

4 жыл бұрын

kzread.info/dash/bejne/dmh1q9mcd7Csqpc.html

@ericlotze7724

4 жыл бұрын

Should also allow for somewhat easy scaling up/down.

@ericlotze7724

4 жыл бұрын

Circular Geometry should print well on a polar printer too...

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Eric, Thanks for your thoughts. I've used 3d printed bearings on several projects. The only issue is that they wear out really fast. The aluminium one I used didn't last long so I'd expect a printed one not to fair well. Thanks for the thoughts all the same. Yes the whole point of this printer it to make large tube like structures, so bearing races should be good too. All the best Barry M

Thank you. Awesome job. I've been looking for sufficient endeavors in polar printing. I am looking to make a tool that I would use mainly for round parts where production speed, concentricity, cylindricity, and surface finish matters. This seems like the way to go. Essentially this machine would be to the lathe in the same way that a typical 3d printer is to the mill. I would imagine for many parts on a machine like this, the G-Code and motion could be simpler, no? Am I wrong in thinking that this could print at a practically infinite speed and not experience interpolation on circles, making smoother, rounder parts? For locating the bed and providing anti-friction on a smaller build, I was considering using 3 V rollers with bearings along the perimeter, to be adjusted for 3 point bed leveling with screws. It would use a pulley in nearly same fashion. A small 6"-12" (150mm-300mm) glass or aluminum plate could absolutely zip around and dominate. It should also provide a way to adjust the plate in X/Y in case someone needed to print off center, like for a crankshaft. Then we might as well add a 3D touch probe to it. Another question, how far does the nozzle need to reach past (0,0) for all current or hopeful slicing and CAM features? You could theoretically reach all parts of the bed if the nozzle only reached halfway plus a little more, of course, but I am curious if it can be optimized in any degree if it had full capacity or required it, or if you had any thoughts on that. Thank you very much!

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Inventorsquare, I agree with most of what you're saying above. In terms of speed to get adequate gearing the step rates for high speed near the bed centre limits print speed on my machine. Also printing near the bed axis is not possible due to the kinematics. In terms of radius axis you only need to get to just past the centre, and then only really for calibration purposes. If you don't want to print very tall your bearing solution may well be fine, but you'll need to react the drive mechanism with some form of radial bearing on the bed. Good luck with your build! Barry M

@Inventorsquare

4 жыл бұрын

CNC Modeller Most excellent. Thank you very much for the considerations. I had thought that my parts would have a small vacancy in the axis of rotation due to it being at essentially zero RPM at the center but I had not yet thought of the problem of approaching it and the increasing motor speed required of that... very, very interesting. Thanks again!

Why polar and not delta? For a 3d printer, the print head is light, the bed is heavy.

@CNCModellerUK

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Murray, I'm looking to maximise print volume whilst still fitting the assembled machine through a domestic doorway. Polar is much shorter in z height for a given print z height and volume. I looked at all of the configurations and decided this was the best option. A scara was my next thought but it means a lot of linkages fixed to a moving z axis and it's seemed to me the play would build up. At least polar separated the two main axes. Also I think polar is very cool to watch:-) All the best Barry M

What firmware did you use for this? It loks awesome btw

@CNCModellerUK

3 жыл бұрын

Hi @TdgChan, It's using reprap firmware on a duet2 ethernet board. Thanks 👍

@mikelabruna9976

3 жыл бұрын

@@CNCModellerUK could you specify the firmware and slicer that can be used, Im looking into a easy to build printer for our Makerspace that ist Not so Common from the mechanics. It would be great If you could answer, I've been Reading die hours and searching but seems noone has a good running fw/SW solution for those polar printers... Or I'm just too dumb to find 😂 ... Best regards from germany

@CNCModellerUK

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Mike, you can use any slicer that generates Cartesian gcode. The firmware is reprap firmware or RRF running on the Duet2 ethernet board. If you go to the Duet3D website and forum you'll get all the support you need. www.duet3d.com/ I'm no expert but it was fairly easy to setup once I'd spent the time to understand how to configure RRF for my printer. It's all done with a startup file with special gcode so there is no firmware code changes or recompiling required. RRF takes the Cartesian gcode co-ordinates and translates them to polar on the fly. I've just upgraded to RRF 3 on my Duet ethernet board and it seems to be good on my setup. I believe you can run it on less expensive be oards but IMO you get what you pay for. Hope that helps. Barry M

For the table and the large diameter pulley surface is it a toothed belt agains a toothed surface.

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

It's a toothed gt2 pulley and belt. These links show more about them. Hope that helps! kzread.info/dash/bejne/fYJ7tKOxg7bRcbQ.html kzread.info/dash/bejne/o4qTpZiRpZC9e7w.html

What kind of bearing do you recomment? I see you use an axial ball bearing, but is this not a little bit overkill? I know they usually use these for high axial pressure and not high precision.

@CNCModellerUK

3 жыл бұрын

Hi @Bl4ckShadow, Yeah these bearings are overkill from a load perspective, however I wanted as large a diameter bearing as I could get and this is the most cost effective ones I could find. Any larger and they start to become very expensive! The larger diameter reduces the amount of off axis deflection. There is also a radial bearing in the centre of the two thrust bearings to hold radial tolerances on the aluminium plate that runs between them. This is not a recommendation, however they seem to work OK, I got them from Ebay: ZWZ 51120 Thrust Ball Bearing Single Direction 100 x 135 x 25 mm 69142RS Budget Rubber Sealed Thin Section Deep Groove Ball Bearing 70x100x16mm I have a 70mm OD 50mm ID "axel" that it all runs around to allow me space on centreline for a slip ring to provide power for a heated bed if required. Hope that clarifies things a little, All the best Barry M

@000Bl4ckShadow000

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much! Im trying this on a smaller scale myself. Just a 250mm table. Im thinking of using a radial ball bearing with OD 95 and ID 70, do you think this will be stable enough? Another question I had was what kind of firmware you used, i dont think there is allready an standerdized option in marlin et cetera you can put on right? Appreciate the help!

@CNCModellerUK

3 жыл бұрын

I tried that setup and it didn't go well. Radial ball bearings have a lot of axial play. This allows the table to rock and as you get taller it doesn't take much for it to be a real issue. You could try two spaced vertically apart on the axis but I went for the thrust bearing approach instead. Also the twin thrust bearings allow you to pre-load the bearings to reduce free play even more. Hope that helps! Good luck with your build! All the best Barry M

Hello! I see that you've installed a BLtouch on yours! I'm also building a Polar type 3d printer (small one just for fun), and I"m using Marlin though. I'm wondering do you just input the offsets like usual and enable Marlin and that's it just like cartesian or CoreXy 3d printers, or are there special things you need to setup on your Duet for the BLtouch? (I understand you're using Duet, which is not Marlin, I use both 3D OS's). What I mean is this, do I just measure like usual the distance from the nozzle the BLtouch is, or does there needs to be "increased" distance because of the polar kinematics? Thanks!

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

As far as I am aware the bltouch is set up the same way for any printer as it just calibrates the z axis. It's the first time I've used one so don't know much. The duet setup is fairly straightforward but I'm guessing that it's RRF specific. Sorry I can't be more help!

@iamthebest22

4 жыл бұрын

@@CNCModellerUK Ah I see no problem, so it looks like you can measure the X and Y offset just like any other way and just input it without having to do any special calculations? Thanks!

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

X and Y home locations are actually radius and rotation, RRF sorts it all out for you though...

Hi, does this printer have end-stop switches? I saw another diy polar 3d printer and it didn't seem to have an end-stop switch for the Z axis (had only one for the Y).

@CNCModellerUK

2 жыл бұрын

Hi @TST, yes this does have end stops on all axes. The rotating bed has an end stop that is only used during homing. This is to allow for consistent bed positioning which is needed for bed mesh levelling and power failure recovery. Hope that helps!

@wjdtpduqcjswo

2 жыл бұрын

Wow thanks a lot!

Nice build! What firmware are you using? RepRap? I think polar printers are very good for mass production. But I am really not sure about licenses and patents if I am designing a polar printer by myself.

@CNCModellerUK

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks MaxTex. I'm using the Duet3D board and firmware. Personally I think the polar printer is an elegant solution but it does require some careful engineering to work well. I've had a few people suggest that I consider selling these but until I'm happy I've knocked the edges off of the design I'm taking it slowly. Thanks for the feedback. All the best, Barry M

on board Duet v2 ?

@CNCModellerUK

3 жыл бұрын

It's the control card for the printer. www.duet3d.com/www.duet3d.com/DuetEthernet