"But I am a software guy from Microsoft, I'll get it right by version three." hahahhahaha. You just summed up the ~25 years I spent in the Windows division (Win98SE - Win11) perfectly.

@20chocsaday

2 ай бұрын

Win 3.11 was useful, and I used it till about 8 months ago. Then blackness and a new Win 10 -11.

@mllarson

2 ай бұрын

Don't forget that usually every other version sucks 🤣

@MatthewMakesAU

2 ай бұрын

​@@20chocsaday Win 2000 was pretty good. Not as good as OS/2 though

@xnamkcor

2 ай бұрын

Do you have any sort of estimates on the market saturation of 3.11 for Workgroups in the non-"business" market(e.g. Households)?

@forbiddenera

2 ай бұрын

Every 2nd version is good.. win 3.11 good win95 bad win98(osr2) good winme bad winxp good win Vista bad win7 good win8 bad win10 good win11 bad..

You said C++ and Old Truck... instant Thumbs Up. Nice combo.

Thanks Dave. It's great to see car content as well. IT nerds can be car guys too!

@jamesarber904

2 ай бұрын

"I'll get it right by version 3" *Dies laughing*

@coolbrotherf127

2 ай бұрын

In my experience a lot of computer nerds are also car guys. The complex mechanical construction of a car is not too dissimilar to the complex digital construction of a computer. It's all cool systems and fun toys for us to play around with.

@mattelder1971

2 ай бұрын

@@coolbrotherf127 These days cars are becoming more and more computerized, especially EVs. There's less and less mechanical parts to a car every year.

@jamesarber904

2 ай бұрын

@@coolbrotherf127 totally agree I ended up rebuilding my modern GM V6 (LLT) after teaching myself and it's still kicking about today. A friend of mine who never had any mechanical knowledge learned how to replace his own brakes and service his car. I think it's more that we are the type of people to learn how things work and make them better

@stapleton95

2 ай бұрын

Multiclassing

Dave! You're restoring of the truck is Pure Eye Candy. What a beautiful truck from the past.

@randomname4726

2 ай бұрын

It is a work of art now. Beautiful

@gfabasic32

2 ай бұрын

It almost looks like a 3D rendered model ! Adam Savage would have whipped out his weathering kit to make it look used and worn to be fit for a Star Wars Universe. As is, it'll do for Star Trek.

Something that’s definitely harder nowadays is to be a cool dad. You now need a KZread channel for your kids to think you’re cool 😎.

@mikgus

2 ай бұрын

"Mum! Dad has more subscribers than me."

@DavesGarage

2 ай бұрын

I'm living the millennial dream :-)

@markrensen9293

2 ай бұрын

Hey @DavesGarage, where can I buy that awesome shirt?

Would love to see you interview some old TRS-80 engineers!

@shvrdavid

2 ай бұрын

I am not sure if they are still with us. Don died last year. Steve Leininger and Don French were the engineers on the TRS project. I still have my TRS-80

I've been watching your videos for quite some time now and I really love your style of making videos. There is always something interesting without being as sensationalized or trendy as some other KZread channels and I love that. The fact that you so casually mentioned you grew up in Saskatchewan is crazy! I live in Saskatchewan and it's so cool to hear this is where you're from too!

@DavesGarage

2 ай бұрын

Glad you like them!

Dave, I am an ex Tandy/Radio Shack engineer and was part of the team that got the TRS-80 model I computer into mass production. That was back in 1978 and 1979. I have never heard about this anecdote on the TRS-80 model I key switch bounce. That must have happened very early on, likely when they changed from the keyboard switches used in the prototypes to ones that had more bounce. Easy to fix in the ROM code by just extending to key bounce delay that is already there. The downside to the fix would be that any of the earlier masked ROMs had to be tossed out.

When you call it “Dave’s Garage”, I think you mean “House repurposed into a garage”. That is an awesome garage!

@DavesGarage

2 ай бұрын

Thanks! It was built to "home" standards inside because it was the office for the showhomes in the area, so I just kind of lucked into that part!

While you were musing about using relays I thought to myself, did he consider using an optocoupler? Well, yes he did and I learned a few moments later. Clearly great minds think alike 😉🖖

A high school friend had an old 68 Cougar with "chasing" style turn signals which weren't working. We tore into it only to find the effect was implemented with a motor and contacts. This software implementation seems much more reliable (except in the case of an EMP... but in that event the car will still function while most others wont so turn signals won't matter as much :).

Easiest way to drop 12v to 3v3 is to have a resistive divider and a Zener across the bottom resistor to keep the voltage below 3v3. They are also quite fast so you shouldn’t see transients. I love your video’s and your presentation style. You are an ambassador for autism. Attention to detail and a desire to find a solution allowing others to give input to your thoughts. And the “subs and likes” and asking for other peoples views. This is so important in engineering - we aren’t “gods of engineering” we are humble enough to seek input from others. This doesn’t mean we don’t know what we are doing, it’s having a mindset and humility to be able to collaborate with others. I am on the spectrum and it is without a doubt one of my strongest personal traits. I honestly think that most really creative engineers are on the spectrum. Most of the best people I know appear to be.

@forbiddenera

2 ай бұрын

If dropping for input to a micro, you only need a resistor. With 12V you should be safe when connecting a 10k resistor on the pin, as then you would rely on the internal clamping diodes to limit the voltage. The resistor limits the current through those clamping diodes to about 0.7 mA. Simple, easy, works. And is exactly what you suggested anyway, just using built in zeeny. Not the safest though; rugged circuits provides schematics and explanations for a ton of protections (and sells boards if you want easy)

@forbiddenera

2 ай бұрын

Btw I've used this often in auto and never blown an input. Won't save you if someone jumps you backwards though.

@tripplefives1402

2 ай бұрын

@@forbiddenera Just a zener and a series resister is perfect for 99% of cases. No need for a divider as the zener forms the lower half of the divider.

@rjy8960

2 ай бұрын

@@forbiddeneraThe reason why I said to use a Zener was because of what you said - "not the safest though" - It is not a good idea to use the internal clamping of an input - transients can take a port out very easily.

@eDoc2020

2 ай бұрын

@@tripplefives1402 I'd still want a resistor on the bottom in order to properly ignore any phantom voltages which may be found.

What an eloquently over engineered solution to a simple problem. I love it! Has my engineering brain swimming with new ideas for my own builds!

At 5:43 Center stop light.... Those are often known as "Dole lights"....because Elizabeth Dole, Bob Dole's wife, was Secretary of Transportation at the time. She was the one that pushed for it, according to accounts of the time....

Glad you chose to share this. I've thought it was the single best Tailgate light bar ever since the first time you showed it off. Having a full set of instructions and a copy of your code is fantastic. The only thing more amazing then this LED project you've shared with us today is the immaculate restoration you did on that truck. I hope to clean my Square body up half so good some day.

Dave, your restoration of this GMC pickup is outstanding! It is better than when it came from the factory. KUDOS on your efforts. It reminds me of my dad's 1967 Chevy C-10 pickup. It was a peach. 👍👍👍👍👍👍

Thank you so much for your videos! A voltage divider is a completely acceptable way to protect the inputs with a couple of simple modifications. Begin with a 100k input resistor paired with the correct grounded resister to give you the voltage you desire. In the case of a 12v signal to a 3.3v input, this works out to roughly a 39K standard value resistor. This configuration now limits the input under normal conditions to about 86 micro Amps (uA). Connect the voltage divider output to two clamp diodes tied to 0v and 3.3v power supplies to keep the voltage from going above 3.3v or below 0v - these diodes need only be rated for about 250uA. Connect this signal to the input of the microcontroller (uC) using a 10k series resistor. The input of the uC has a really high impedance, make sure the pullups and pulldowns are turned off, AND the uC has its own clamping diodes built in. with the addition of the 10K series resistor, these internal diodes are safe and can never see more than 50uA which is way under their rated capacity. I have designed several auttomotive products using this with tens of thousands of units shipped and no inputs have ever failed. This is even pretty good protection against most static discharges since it limits the current so well. Most of my products also poll the inputs using an interrupt timer routine at either 100ms or 50ms intervals. If you poll much faster than 50ms you will begin to detect switch bounce which measured up to 15ms on some very bad switches. There are many ways to handle inputs and this is the primary one I use and is, of course, application dependent - your mileage may vary.

@justHeisen

2 ай бұрын

Hi peter, I am very interested in the circuit you described above, if you don't mind, where can I contact you to talk about this more?

@philbeau

2 ай бұрын

Might need a zener circuit to trim input voltage down to 12.5V or so.

@UncleKennysPlace

2 ай бұрын

Voltage dividers are magic; I've use potentiometers for the same purpose on occasion. At the very least they let you get good values for hard wiring with resistors. I remember when my dad taught me about them, more than 50 years ago.

@tripplefives1402

2 ай бұрын

@@UncleKennysPlace Problem with the divider is that it does not clamp to a set value and car voltages can swing wildly and can even get zapped with HV if the ignition system goes weird. Use a zener in place of the lower leg of your divider to always have the voltage at 3v no matter what. If its low frequency input also use a capacitor in parallel with the zener to handle HV spikes and a RF style inductor in front of the resister to block RF interference from the ignition or HAM or CB radio from activating the input.. Also don't forget to throw in some self-healing fuses on the inputs in case your chip shorts out and starts shorting the inputs coming from the car. Typically if your wiring experiences some sort of overvoltage spike and the chip fails it typically fails with the pins shorting out to ground.

I'd use the brake signal before it's mixed in by pulling a signal from the brake switch at the top of the pedal under the dash. In fact, I'd pick all the signals up there & run them in cable to the back of the bed where I'd embed the micro in a sealed box with drain holes. That way it leaves the whole system available even when a trailer is connected.

Love the binary shirt!

Ah, the good old debounce. I really miss microcontroller programming but I did it all in assembly back in the day. Thanks for sharing and going through your code.

"San Wah-Keen" is an absolute correct Dave!

First off, Dave, I've been a fan of your KZread channel for a long time, and always enjoy watching your videos. They are nicely prepared, cover great content, and are geared nicely between beginner and guru-level so that they are consumable by a pretty wide audience, a trick which is not easy to pull off. I never knew that you were a "motorhead", though. A man cut from a similar piece of cloth as myself, so to speak. I've deep into tech my whole life, but also have a real soft spot for old Muscle Cars (and Muscle Trucks). I lean toward Chevrolet cars because they're what I grew up with, but I love anything that was built in the mid-60's to early '70's that were oriented toward putting more power in a vehicle than it practically needed. FoMoCo, Chrysler, GM, I love them all. While the "today" versions of Mustang, Challenger/Charger(soon to be RIP), and Camaro(RIP) can handily slaughter the stock muscle of the era, there's still nothing quite like the sight, sound, and smell of a clean, proper, and loved car or truck that was a product of the muscle-era. Dave, you're truck is simply gorgeous! So nicely and tastefully done. My sincere compliments! You've got to get a lot of approving "thumbs up" and waves when you take it out for a spin. I love that you did a lot of the restoration work yourself. It's a lot of hard work, but it so pays off in satisfaction and "knowing it was done right". If you're like me, it's almost transcendental getting behind the wheel of a classic like this and tooling around in it. Machines like this are about the only example of a time-machine that you can use to instantly transport yourself back to the days before microprocessors and all of the distractions that they've created. The fantastic and so beautifully-executed LED kit you built for it just puts icing on the cake, done it a way so as to augment the safety (which I really believe it does, because it'd be hard to miss the display unless someone was truly catatonic) in a way that doesn't impact the originality and timelessness of the truck's design. Masterfully-done, sir! My only question is, what if you want to tow a trailer with the truck? It looked like the add-on plugs into where the trailer pigtail would plug in. Did you build adapter cable that provides a feed-through for the high-tech taillight, and also has an outlet whereby a trailer pigtail can plug in? The code that runs the lightshow is a great example of using the interrupt capabilities of the ESP32 to handle a number of things going on at once in real-time. I also like that you used opto-isolators in the second go-around of the project, as relays, though a lot more reliable than in the days of the "moth" bug in Aiken Mark II Relay Calculator(1947), are still electromechanical devices that can be somewhat fidgety. The'70 Chevelle SS396 you referenced actually had three different 396's available as optional engines. The low-end 396 was a 330HP version with single-exhaust, which is probably close to the 310HP 396 that came stock in your truck. I'm quite your "396" now puts out significantly more than that now, though. The next version396 was rated at 350HP, with a more aggressive camshaft and dual exhaust. Both the 330 and 350HP 396s used a standard block with two-bolt main caps, cast rods and pistons, 10.25:1 compression, hydraulic-grind camshaft & lifters, cast-iron intake manifold, oval-port heads that were good for torque, but flow-limited at higher RPM, and a Rochester Quadrajet four-barrel carburetor. As you mentioned, the versions of 396 in truck applications got different cam timing to add to the low-end grunt, at the expense of some higher-end horsepower...totally the right thing for a big heavy truck, which likely explains the 310HP truck rating as opposed to the 330HP rating in the Chevelle. The remaining 396 engine option for the '70 SS 396 Chevelle was a pretty special one. Only 2,144 '70 Chevelles came equipped with this engine, as opposed to the 4,475 built with the legendary LS-6 450HP 454. This 396 (or, 402 from '69 through '71) harkened back to 1965, when Chevrolet wanted to put a big block in the Corvette. The previous-generation W-series big-block engines just wouldn't do for the Corvette. They were heavy, quite large which would have made them a chore to put into the Corvette's engine bay, and didn't really fit the sports car image of the Corvette. The solution was an engine derived from Chevrolet's Mark II 427 big block that ran at Daytona in 1963 that became known as the "Mystery Motor". Chevrolet purpose-built a special 396, based on revisions of the Mark II design, calling it the Mark IV, and rated it at 425 HP and 415 lb. ft. of torque. It had lots of nice goodies that carried over from the NASCAR "Mystery Motor" program; including a forged steel cross-drilled & Tufftrided crankshaft, forged alloy rods, forged aluminum pistons, a special solid-lifter camshaft, high-strength pushrods with guide plates, a select high-strength block with four-bolt main bearing caps, 11.0:1 compression, huge rectangular-port closed-chamber heads with larger valves, a special aluminum distributor, and a beautifully-designed high-rise aluminum intake manifold topped by a Holley 780 CFM four-barrel double-pump carburetor. This engine carried Regular Production Option(RPO) code L78, and became legendary when it was put quietly made available in the newly-introduced 1967 Camaro as a late model-year introduction. It got rated at 375HP(still 415 lb. ft. of torque) in the Camaro, which was partly for insurance purposes, and also to keep GM brass at bay because they weren't keen at that time on putting an engine that had more than 1 horsepower per 10 pounds of weight (and the Camaro weighed in at around 3,300 lbs. with a big block under the hood) into production cars. The engine was virtually identical to the 425 HP L78 in the '65 Corvette, though. Recent dyno tests of stock-built versions of the L78 show it turned out 425+ horsepower, interestingly at higher RPM than the engines were rated at back in the day. The L78 turned the Camaro into a brute, and led Bill Jenkins, famed Chevrolet engine builder and drag-racer, to take the NHRA Pro Stock championship in '67 with an L78-equipped Camaro (one of the first ones off the assembly line). I have one of these '67 L78 Camaros in factory stock form(a 33,000-mile, 1 of 1,138-made original that I have owned for 45 years), and I can attest that it is a handful with mandatory 4-speed transmission and optional 3.73:1 rear-end gears. It'll smoke the tires well into 4th gear, though you'd better be on top of your driving game, as it really wants to swap ends on you while doing so. I also have a '69 Nova SS 396 that is also stock (65K original miles, owned for 25 years) with the L78 396 and 4-speed. It has taller 3.55:1 rear gears, but because of the lighter rear-end weight distribution of the Nova, it's surprisingly more hairy to keep going in a reasonably straight line when hard on the throttle. Your video got me thinking. Like you, I have often worried about getting hit in the rear when driving both of these cars. Both cars have dim, barely-visible in bright daylight, brake lamps that were apparently acceptable at the time, though woefully inadequate compared to the bright brake lights and CHMSL of today. Putting in higher wattage bulbs makes the taillights look odd, with the lenses not diffusing the light evenly. Maybe I can make something similar that is minimally invasive (e.g., fits in at the top edge of the rear bumper) that will fit with the theme of the cars, but make it much more obvious when I'm stopping or turning than the lame factory brake lamps. I've seen LED lamp replacement systems for the brake lights on '67 Camaros, but they just don't look right, with led "dots" showing up in the lens. Yeah, they are brighter, but they just don't fit the era. Your linear line of high density and brightness LEDs and the effects they can create is so much more subtle to integrate, while being very attention getting. I just might have to look into seeing what I can put together for the Camaro and Nova based on your idea. Sorry I got a bit carried away in my comment...just was really neat to see you too were a combo tech guy and a motorhead like myself, and developed such an elegantly implemented safety improvement for your beautiful truck. Thank you for creating this wonderful video that combines your passions in such a nice way. Keep up the great work, stay well, and may your truck always be shiny-side up! P.S. I love your shirt!

I want to thank you for explaining some of the madness of my dad's effects he left behind. I didn't understand the 500-700 polaroid photos of some of the vans he had reconditioned.

That shirt is awesome.

Is that your daughter? She's adorable. Back in SK I learned to drive in the same GMC truck, except _my_ Dad's was yellow. 🙂

I am from the San Juaquine Valley and yes you're pronounced it just fine.

@luisalvarez6196

2 ай бұрын

"San Joaquín" is, like many californian places, a Spanish word, let me see, it should be pronounced "San Hoe Ah Keen"!

@chitlitlah

2 ай бұрын

@@luisalvarez6196 Yes, but in American English, we pronounce the second word like wah-keen. I grew up kind of close to Joaquin, Texas. Sorry for butchering your language, but at least we say taco right, unlike the Brits and their tackos.

@luisalvarez6196

2 ай бұрын

@@chitlitlah Don't worry! Everyone has got an accent...

Synchronicity! I was looking these vehicles today! Bravo to the restorer for placing history back on the road!

I've done similar things using a voltage divider... You just use some high value resistors to ensure that there isn't much current in the circuit... Although it would have involved a bit more wiring, a solution that would have simplified your code quite a bit would have been to run wires to the brake switch, turn signal stalk, and emergency flasher switch... Considering how much you tore the vehicle apart during the restoration, adding a bit extra wiring would have probably been pretty easy to do... As far as reverse lights go, I prefer to be able to turn them on even when the transmission is not in reverse, so I add a small switch that controls a pair of 4" LED cube lights under my trailer hitch in my Jeep... If I need the extra light for backing out of a dark driveway, it's easy to switch them on, but mostly, I just flash them at anyone who is tailgating and who doesn't get the hint when I turn my windshield washers on... ;) I thought about getting a bumper sticker that says, "WARNING -- Driver uses relief tube", but probably most non-pilots wouldn't know what that is anyway...

Thank you for another wonderful video. I love the way you present your code, interspersed with a good story about the thought process and considerations.

Fuel tank in my car is directly under the drivers seat... and for bonus points, I installed the lithium battery for the dashcam right on top of it.

@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire

Ай бұрын

I used to own an aircraft that had a fuel tank that was the actual seat... It also did not have an electrical system, so you had to hand-prop it...

Beautiful pickup. Thorough restoration.

I haven't done anything this cool, but I did build an LED turn signal controller for an old Harley Sportster I once had. I used an Arduino Nano, a 5V regulator, a couple power transistors to drive the turn signals, and a couple optoisolators to simplify converting the 12-14V switched by the turn signal buttons to the 5v required by the input pins. Each button could toggle the respective turn signal on or off, cancel the other signal if it was previously flashing, and if both were pressed simultaneously, they'd flash a hazard pattern. I house the controller in an Altoids tin. It lasted a couple of years, but I think heat eventually killed it. I've considered using something like a Raspberry Pi Nano to implement a can bus on my older bikes with maybe bluetooth to send data to an android app to display.

Cool project! Would be nice with some more video of the light bare when you break, then blink, and then release the break and also how it looks when the hazards are on in conjunction with the breaks 🙂

If it had a lot of Red Dirt, it would have spent a lot of time in the northern Sierras, somewhere Placer county or north, possibly as far as Shasta County. You said San Joaquin correctly.

Really awesome truck ... great fun too. My son and I are fixing up my dad's old 1968 International Scout 800 - goes way back in memory for me, as a kid. Great to see the video with a mix of electronics with mechanical bits - a nice break from just computers and programming. Cheers

I've got an old City of Los Angeles Roads Department 1967 C20. It's not a restoration but a RestoMod without the Resto part! It's got a 350/TH400 combo with a late 70s 14 bolt for the rear. I drive it absolutely everywhere. I've had it since 2007 and I don't think I'll ever sell it.

We all want to be like Dave. Nice truck.

That 7 pin seems to be mostly american, In Australia we dont generally have a 12v connection on our 7pin. I would also consider running a dedicated 12v accessory fed relay to power the esp, so your not vampiring the battery (even tho it will take a long time to flatten it @ ~ 100ma, +/- buck converters draw), You could also do some cool things like monitor the car battery voltage when sitting and send you a warning if it drops to a certain point.

I misread it as "adding LEDs and C++ to my old truck" Well, you're indeed adding C++ to it.

Input yes you can use a simple voltage divider, but the optocoupler works well to get some isolation, especially if you use a 4V7 zener diode in series with the LED to get voltage immunity to the signal, so a blown bulb does not leave the brakes on all the time from stray voltage. Resistor divider you also need a set of diodes to keep the voltage from exceeding supply rails, along with a small capacitor (roughly 100n) to provide noise immunity on the input. Incidentally reed relays work well, small, easy to drive, and the contacts interface well with MCU inputs as well, as they have very little bounce. Just have a pull up resistor to provide 2mA of contact current to keep them in good condition, and it works. I have added trailer relays to my car, as I do not want a faulty trailer wiring set to blow the BCM up, and used 4 relays to do this, using the existing lamp wiring as source, and an extra fused power lead from the battery. In the power line is a reed relay, with the coil replaced with 12 turns of enamelled copper, there to close the contact when current is over the draw of a 21W trailer lamp, and then the reed is powered from the 12V supply, and a lead runs off to a LED near the dash, that lights up whenever I press brakes, or turn, with trailer attached, as a confirmation that trailer indicators are working, and at least one brake light still works, and the plug is connected. Will guess your TRS80 issue was simply because the original designers ran out of space in the very limited ROM, and thus to get space to fit all the headline specs they had to sacrifice some things, and the full keyboard debounce was chosen, simply because it was not an issue with a brand new keyboard, or only minimally so, only getting worse as the keyboards aged and were made cheaper. New switches with clean contacts minimal bounce, but as they age, and the contact surfaces, with only a very small current, get dirty, there is a build up of resistance till the force is enough to break through the film. That is why industrial logic almost always has a 24VDC rail, and 10mA of current flow through a switch input, even if it is going to a MCU input only. The voltage is high, and also the 10mA of current, along with the 22n to 100n input filtering capacitor, provides enough energy to always clean the contact surfaces, so allowing them to be reliable. 5V logic needs that 10mA of current flow, and gold plated contacts, to be almost as reliable, but most keyboard designs, due to the demands for low power, and also limitations of the CMOS and older NMOS designs in ability to source current, only use much lower current instead, and thus the need for software debounce increases as the key switches age.

Did it have the box on the side of the bed? We have thousands of parts for 67-72 Chevy trucks. That truck is clean! It is loaded! Tach, tilt, buckets, power brakes, ac, and the Sarah grande package with camper package! Nice!

I would love to see the whole thing, from assembly to finished project 😊

My new '22 explorer ST, if you plug ANYTHING into the trailer wire, it detects it and auto puts the truck in tow mode and disabled reverse cam and such. It senses the power draw, even a single LED sets it off. I tested it. I put LED lights in the bumper reflectors and ran across this and had to re wire from the tail lights direct, which are just LED enclosures too. Lol. No more changing a simple light bulb.

@-Primer-

2 ай бұрын

Use an octo-coupler relay. They won't draw enough power to trigger it.

@strehlow

2 ай бұрын

@@-Primer-If a single LED sets it off, the opto-coupler probably will too as it is an LED too. Might need a field-effect transistor with very high impedance monitoring the lines.

@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire

Ай бұрын

It's the damn kiddie engineers adding more useless "features" with the CANBUS... Hell, they couldn't even get the Jeep Wrangler UConnect system to handle something as simple as MP3 playlists correctly...

I was a computer repair technician for Radio Shack at their Albany NY repair depot. The keyboard on the TRS-80 model 1 initial release was trash, but early in its lifetime the key bounce wasn't really a problem. As they aged they'd get noisy and Tandy's fix was to have us clean the contacts on each individual key until they all stopped bouncing. Needless to say re had a lot of "to-do" repairs. The denounce patch was a stop gap. The next version had a better keyboard and also the keyboard input routine was updated in the ROMs.

@vincentmeyer4910

2 ай бұрын

I hate autocorrect. While I would have welcomed a denounce patch, was of course a debounce patch.

As an old Car guy/geek this video adventure is right down my alley!

Love your truck, I grew up with a Chevy 1968 3/4 ton, california truck Sacramento, Blue, with white, 350 V8, automatic tubo shift, limitied shift, rubber mats, Air-conditionaing, 8' bed, 9.5' camper, limit slip differencial, loved the truck but it really ate the gas.

RELAY!!? Yes, you could do it with a resistor divider but the opto is the right choice - An ILQ32 should do the trick. You know I bet Admiral Grace Hopper, could probably implement the entire design using relays. Then you could do real debugging.

In Europe, and I believe most of the rest of the world, turn signals are flashing orange lights which are separate from the red brake lights. We also have lower intensity red tail lights that are used when it is dark.

@randomname4726

2 ай бұрын

Of course America has to be different...

@eDoc2020

2 ай бұрын

That's also true on many American market cars, but the stupid combined stop/turn signals are also _allowed_ for unknown reasons.

@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire

Ай бұрын

@@eDoc2020 -- The combined stop/turn signals are probably a legacy thing... It works, so there is no reason to change it... I first noticed it when I was replacing the lights and wiring on a utility trailer after my dogs had literally ATE the wire and lights -- or at least all the plastic...

@eDoc2020

Ай бұрын

@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire It _was_ a legacy thing. But from other comments more and more modern vehicles are starting to adopt it. Alec from Technology Connections would NOT be proud.

"Retired Microsoft software engineer...I'll get it right by version 3." LOL. Regarding converting on/off states in the car's 12v world to on/off state in the ESP32's 3v world, you CAN accomplish that using voltage divider resistors on the inputs (3x ohms above the ESP32 pin, 1x below then pick x to yield an appropriate current limit) BUT... Since this is brake lighting we're talking about which is safety related and you know the car's "12v" system can actually get as high as 14v during charging, I would also protect each ESP32 input by using a zener diode rated at 3.0v and tie it to each ESP32 input connected to the 12v realm. This will GUARANTEE an unexpected high voltage in the 12v realm doesn't cause the 3v limit to be exceed and burn out the ESP32 and interfere with the ultimate brake / turn lights. Also, to "de-bounce" the inputs, you can do it in software as you illustrated or you can use a 7400 NAND as a Set/Reset flip-flop OR use Schmitt triggers to mask those interim transitions from the output. Just went through this exercise on an ESP32 experiment of my own.

Under unusual circumstances, the voltage on the battery system can reach quite high voltages. I read that automotive manufacturers spec this around +-90 volts for a few mS. One cause is removing the battery terminal while under heavy charge. And don't forget sparks and such when jumper charging. Duane C. Johnson

Wow. That is so beautifully preserved. Belongs in a museum.

You only need a resister like 1kohm, and a zener diode rated at 3v zener voltage. To use a zener as a voltage clamp you hook it up in reverse where the cathode/stripe is connected to the positive voltage input signal and the anode is connected to ground. The resister is to limit the current into the zener so it doesn't just blow up. The resister goes between the 12v input and 3v output and the zener goes between 3v output and ground. It's much smaller than a relay and can be done with surface mount parts. You can also use a zener for over voltage protection and reverse polarity as it will short out in those situations and you just use a self-healing fuse and a sufficiently large zener (so it doesn't pop before the fuse does, like 10w or a big one)

That truck turned into a real beauty again, I'm sure the original owners would be happy knowing it's been restored to this kind of quality.

Great project!...Decades ago 60 Minutes ran an item on pickup trucks with fuel tanks behind the seats. They showed that you didn't have to crush the cab to rupture the tank and spray fuel through out the interior. Fires engulfed the interior of what would have been a survivable accident. In short, it really would be worth it to relocate the fuel tank to the under side of the truck.

Dave, I just thought I'd mention a place in California that is almost all red dirt... That would be in the Grass Valley/ Nevada City area in Nevada County. Another area that has a high concentration of red volcanic rock and dirt is in the Clear Lake area in Lake County. Nice Truck!

Thanks so much for going over this Dave! I've actually been interested in a similar project myself

That is by far the coolest damn shirt I have ever seen.

As someone who has put the back of their head through a rear window of a chavy pickup, I approve of this, but it wouldnt have helped in my case. In 1990 I was in community college and delivering appliances part time for a family store in rural northern Illinois. I pulled completely off thr road on a solf Shoulder to check a map (yes kids we used paper map books in the olden times). My partner and figured out where we went wrong and i reached down to releade the parking brake and checked my mirror at the same time. I saw a car swerve in my mirror but thought nothing of it since they never left the lane. As i was shifting the 1985 Chevy into first, wam! A drunk 18 year old slammed into the back of the truck at 60mph. It barely dented the utility body and lift gate on my truck, but destroyd his Didge Diplomat. My head went backwards through the back glass. I still have a dent over my left ear and pieces of glass embedded in my skull that they decided not to take out.

God love you! You even got into TRS-80! Thank you for being you, from a child of the 70's.

In most of New Mexico, we don't use salt on the roads during winter. This and the dry climate means that vehicle undercarriages and body parts stay in good condition. Instead of spreading salt when it snows, we put down red pumice (lava) rock on the streets. Once on the street, this pumice gets ground down to be an extremely fine red slurry that gets EVERYWHERE. Over time, no matter how much you spray and clean, there is still red dust that is only visible when parts of the car are dissembled. There may be somewhere in CA that does the same thing.

@BoraHorzaGobuchul

2 ай бұрын

Hard to tell which is better / worse... They use both salt sand tiny granite pieces where I live. Salt is just nasty, and the tiny granite pieces are rough, coarse, and get everywhere... At least they can be vacuumed away and don't color stuff

@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire

Ай бұрын

So, you you end up with more broken windshields... I have a Jeep Wrangler and the windshield on that thing is a rock chip magnet...

Hey Dave, excellent demonstration!! I've planned on using fully addressable LEDs on my motorhome for a while now, but haven't got around to it yet. This may be what I need to get started.

Red clay could be from the Sacramento Valley as well, it was very common in the Redding and Red Bluff areas. And you pronounced San Joaquin just fine!

Got a kick out of your introduction with your daughter, great looking truck. Your scripts should receive a KZread award. I like to read your second book maybe a code writer who puts together a program to take over the world.

Absolutely phenomenal work Dave, the truck is gorgeous.

I'm slow at going through all my many subs, but this is definitely one I wasn't going to miss. Of course I use the subs page so notifications aren't necessary.

You could have used a zener diode and couple of resistors as a voltage divider from the 12v signals. This would create a very stable 3v output no matter what the 12-14v supply voltage is at. I sometimes use this simple circuit instead of a regulator for very low powered microcontrollers. Another way would be to use an NPN transistor and a resistor to pull the microcontroller pin low when 12V appears at its base.

Great real world project. Love the old GMC, I remember driving one, a '68 camper special with 4 on the floor, I think a 327 cu in 4 bbl engine. Also thanks for the examples on using interrupts.

I grew up with a `72 GMC Sierra grande. When I turned 16, I would occasionally borrow it from my father. I couldn't help romping on the throttle. The 750 cfm "toilet bowl" would make an audible sucking noise. Dad drove it normally and got 10 MPG, I would get around 4 MPG. ;) I miss that truck! Great work on the restoration and safety equipment!

This video wasn't at all what i was expecting from a quick glance at the title. And wow, that truck looks amazing!

Thank you Dave I really enjoyed this episode.

I'd love to see more of the hardware including the wiring

Nice little project, definitely like the aspect side of it. I'm rather tired of seeing vehicles with lights that can barely be seen. I'd like to see this implemented with the modern CAN bus. I suspect it would be a bit easier to determine brake lights vs turning vs hazards once the hardware is communicating. The 12v version of the LEDs would be nice if only to bypass the buck converter. A smaller buck could be used for the ESP itself.

"San Wah-Keen". I was stationed at the Lemoore Naval Air Station as U.S. Marine in 1989. And, OMG, what resto, I'm so impressed!

Great video Dave. Kudos for the impeccable restoration. I like the original state of your lovely Sierra Grande. Best regards.

I figure you could have broken the LED strip into two halves, one for right and one for left, and they could just do whatever the trucks lights on their side do, avoiding any braking and turn signaling issues.

I rebuilt the engine on my 93 John Deere 425 garden tractor last summer, and I took over a thousand photos and videos during disassembly. I, too, felt like I should have taken more. I enjoyed this episode, though I have not delved into the waters of C++.

beautiful truck Dave. Not sure if you remember me at all but I used to work at MS back in the day and I think you were one of my interviewers when I started.

Bookmarking this video (only half-way through) because I'm planning on doing the same with our 67 mustang coupe. Adding a 3rd brake light strip with additional functions as a turn indicator and attention flasher when applying brakes. These old cars feel like a tin can, anything to improve safety is paramount over horsepo... just kidding. Both are important to improve! :)

I’m not really a car guy but found this project fascinating. Thanks for all the details

Also so cool you had a retired nascar engine builder rebuild your engine I bet it is amazing now! They have such talent

@DavesGarage

2 ай бұрын

He's passed away now, sadly! But I loved watching him build engines... I'd just ask questions until he got tired of answering them! He was still pretty secretive about some stuff to my surprise!

@matthewbass8152

2 ай бұрын

@@DavesGarage aw super sad to lose a man with the such knowledge like that. I bet the secretive nature came from all his years in nascars having it engrained in him to keep trade secrets away from the competition. Finally just wanted to say thank you again for being such a great inspiration and role model for those perusing engineering who are on the spectrum!

Amazing find and a fantastic truck!

I was so confused by the thumbnail. Then I realized it was Dave’s Garage, and it made perfect sense 😂

San Joaquin County resident here, and yes you did pronounce it correctly

13:00: I'd certainly absolutely unquestionably positively go with optocouplers, and chose the ones with the best internal overvoltage protection, and prefer the ones with voltage input to current input). The vintage relay blinkers may generate horrible voltage spikes if the bulb burns open.

My grandparents had red dirt in the Applegate area just up from Auburn on highway 80

This is fantastic. Thank you for sharing.

That is a handsome truck. That red/blue flashing light would be great to be accessible from a separate switch to demonstrate during car shows. Congratulations on the Hemmings article. I'll read it afterwards.

As an electrical engineering student sweating through my first major microcontroller C++ foray your channel has been such a great binge over the last few days! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us! I wish you taught many of my subjects. :) I am building an ESP32 based spectrum analyzer, and would love any reference materials or wisdom you might have publically available from your ESP32 Audio Spectrum Analyzer!

I built my own turn signal indicator with LEDs back in 2008 for my 1994 Honda Transalp. But they were just all on all off, simple replacement for the bulbs. They were the first generation of high brightness LEDs and I used a bunch of them on a thru-hole board that fit snugly in the indicator housings. I built my own 555-based turn relay that handled the lower current of the LEDs (Original relays flash fast with LEDs because of the lower current). I did have ideas for making animated turn signals with a 555 and binary counter, but it never came to fruition due to other stuff going on in my life.

So much good about this video... but you had me at C++ in a 70's truck.

Beautiful truck and restoration.

You can do it with a Zener diode and a resister. This type of diode acts as a voltage shut and will limit the voltage going across it.

Dave, Great video! The truck looks absolutely gorgeous!

Such an underrated channel

Would have liked to have seen much more of that restored truck in this video! Nice work!

Thanks for another great video! Always interesting and entertaining.

Nice. *I made my own turn signals for my Can-Am with a PIC16F690* and using a relay board from Amazon just like what you had in one of your screenshots. I have a 20 yr old Ford Ranger project truck that I was thinking of making my own turn signal controller since I am so used to the way you tap the modern turn signal levers to blink 3 or 4 times for lane change, etc.

Nice story. Thanks.

12:40 why not use some schmitt trigger buffers? They are great for dealing with noisy signals, as long as the noise amplitude isn't too high.

I've been thinking of doing this with an esp32 on my vehicles too. And make them bright white too for reverse for plenty of seeing in dark