I am just a Farmer. But the highlight of my day is having coffee with Keith, or eating dinner while watching over his shoulder. I don't know how someone as young as he has managed to accumulate 200 years of knowledge. I do want to thank you for the direction you have pushed me in occasion! Wonderful to watch you work!

@kevinwalker5155

3 жыл бұрын

I realize it is quite off topic but does anybody know of a good site to watch new tv shows online?

Hey Keith! That old girl is looking so much better than when we visited with you back in May! Great job! Bob Troxell, Virginia USA

GREAT JOB KEITH. YOU WILL GET A FEELING OF SATISFACTION EVERY TIME YOU LOOK AT IT.

I like the choice of a clear lacquer finish on the handles. They really pop, much better than paint. It will get chewed up but it should be easy to touch up. Repairing and restoring machines is such satisfying work.

Hi Kieth, It's almost unrecognizable to what you started with. A nice restoration of an old machine.

Keith. Your removal and installation technique is spot on for the window units ha. We do manufacture a hardened metal "punch" for all four sizes of these windows. Most of the time people just install them like you did. We manufacture all of these in NC and they are actually 100% USA made since the product was designed many many moons ago.

Keith - Cleaning the controls and painting changes the lathe from night to day. The parts were so dirty and now it looks like new. That's the best part of restorations - making the machine and its parts look great. Can't wait to see the final product.

Keith, Nice touch on the polished controls on the Monarch. Looks better than when Monarch turned it out of the factory. Great job. Thanks for sharing. Gary 74-Year-Old Home shop machinist in North West Arkansas

If the lathe top leaks oil a thin layer of silicone sealer on the machine surface and a thin layer of grease on the lid surface works wonders. The silicone seals it and the grease keeps the silicone from sticking the lid down. Works great, i've done it for 30+ years,

Strange that they would use roll pins as pivot pins, but hey it seems to work. Really neat that you found brand new OEM sight glasses. If the clear coat on the handles gets beat up and rust becomes a problem, plating them might be a interesting project and a durable finish. I think Mr. Pete was doing some nickel plating on his channel, maybe a collaboration is in order.

Wise choice Keith. Polished handles look AMAZING on that old lathe. Can't wait to see you starting to use all that great equipment again! The museum will soon be bringing all their stuff to your shop to do the work since you will be outfit perfectly for them! :)

I usually find when I need to hold a spring, detent, pin, or whatever else tiny in a hard to reach spot and gravity keeps yanking it out, a touch of thick grease on the pin holds it just right. It helps lubricate and prevent rust in the future as well. Keith clearly knows what he's doing, just thought I'd share that tip with everyone.

That grinder rocking would do my head in!! Great work looking good.

Can't wait to see you fire the old Monarch up and making some chips.

Glorious restore. The small things matter a lot.

It truly looks great. There must be a Murphy's Law corollary for buckets of miscellaneous fasteners that states: if you need N fasteners of a given size, you will almost always be able to locate N - 1.

Good choice on the polishing and lacquer. Lathe is looking great.

Thanks for posting Keith. The polished handles look good.

You should paint those two oil fill caps black and clean the paint off the raised "OIL". That would look sharp and blend with the placards and control handle knobs.

Keith, top vid as usual. But your new style thumbnails blend exactly with KZreads (albeit silly) red line that shows if you've watched/how much you've watched of a vid. Makes checking your older vids very difficult.

Thanks for the restoration inspiration Keith. I now have two vintage vises, and a blacksmith forge & blower completed. I am ready to start on an ancient post vise now.

I really enjoy watching your lathe restorals. Thanks for posting these.

Good choice on the polished metal control levers. Looks good! I also think the green was a good choice.

Looks really nice. Very productive year out in the shop.

Coming along nicely Keith. I needed the source for sight glasses for my Monarch, so thanks for the investigative work.

Looking good Keith. Thanks

Thanks for the video, Keith.

Beautiful work.

Looking god. I don't know if it is common knowledge your side of the pond but if, when pouring oil, you have the spout at the top you don't get the glugging as air can come in as the oil goes out. It may not have been a problem pouring oil into such a large opening but when pouring oil into, say, a funnel there is much greater control over the flow.

Keith, enjoy all of you videos. Lathe is looking great. I think a couple of the screws in the gearbox cover were a little long. When you had them sitting in they were sticking out a lot more then they should have been. If you pull them out and stick them in upside down, if the head is completely in the counterbore then you are bottoming out the threads and not tightening on the cover. Generally when I drop the bolts in the holes I like the head to be above the top of the counterbore between 1/2 and 1 times the thread diameter.

Super great job Keith ! ENJOYED , Thanks man ..Thumbs up ..

Looking good. To "freshen-up" a clogged up Scotch Brite wheel just run an old flat screwdriver across it while it's running. It's just like dressing a grinding wheel.

Looks great, Keith. I like the clean look of the polished levers. My Sheldon had painted levers on the gear box. During rebuilding I soaked that off and found nice solid bronze underneath. I may need to get a sight glass for my LeBlond; I'll find out when I get it running. Thanks for sharing the source.

Looking good Keith

Damn, but I like that green color.

Great job Keith I'm looking forward to seeing this lathe in operation. Thanks for sharing.

Whenever I mess with the controls, I pull the shafts and replace the o-rings. The shafts are typically below the oil level and they always leak.

Thanks for another enjoyable show-n-tell. Please describe "drifting the clutch while shifting", as it says on the plate.

@hornhospital

7 жыл бұрын

You disengage the clutch (drop the handle down partway) without stopping the lathe, so that the gear train is "drifting", i.e. no pull against the gears and no deceleration. You can then shift without clashing. It DOES take some practice.

Looking good; hope to see it running but being patient for I know it takes time to do it right, Greg.

Nice! You definitely need to secure your wire wheel with a horizontal bar towards the wall. It is "dancing" here and there, dangerous and inefficient.

good job on restorstion, now i know who to call. great old iron, as a novice I had to opt for foreign metal; but it will never be as good as that old iron. congrats keith.

Sweet looking lathe!

Clear powder coat by far the best! Won't come off.

Clearly the best option is to keep those handles or levers bare metal. Looks the best instead of some paint. Really coming together nice :o)

those handles look amazing!!

grey scotchbright SHOULD be "final" or blending grade Light Green - Non abrasive for scouring and general maint White - Non abrasive for polishing and light cleaning Grey - Ultra fine silicone carbide abrasive for fine hand cleaning and finishing Maroon - Very fine aluminum oxide for basic cleaning and finishing Green - Fine aluminum oxide for removing rust or corrosion Black - Medium aluminum oxide for heavy duty cleaning or fast action finishing Tan - Coarse aluminum oxide for stainless steel aluminum and for stripping Red is about 320- 400 grit Grey is about 600-800 grit White is about 1000

very nice work

Thank you!

GREAT VIDEO !! PUT AN 1/8" - 1/4" OF SMALL WASHERS IN SPRING HOLE .

Those polished gear shift levers look pretty sharp, and it's really cool that the exact same sight glasses are still available. I'm surprised that the detent notches are so close together on those shift levers. I would have expected the shafts to have to rotate more to engage the different gears.

looks great

Very nice. Makes me want to do a restore - what fun! That wobbly grinder station could sure bite you sometime.

@cschwad559

7 жыл бұрын

RelentlessHomesteading Ridgidity, ridgidity, ridgidity.

Nice work Keith! Matt C

sure looks nice

Keith, I use simichrome on bare metal parts and it keeps them protected and won't peel or chip away. Thanks for the vids.

Looks good.

Those handles look great. Promises to be a very nice restoration. Good practice for the 10EE ;) Best wishes.

You're probably going to wish you put a gasket on the top of the head stock. Lathe is looking good!

Nice work. The Monarch is starting to look really good. If it was me, I would not Loctite those handles. Just thinking the pain it would be in the future to unscrew them... maybe only a tiny drop of rtv just to keep them in place.

Suggestion: A stainless steel plate added to that square behind the 4 or 5 handles to prevent the paint from scratches and such.

@lito11111940

7 жыл бұрын

Beautiful Lathe. Your restoration is perfect.

I was surprised no gasket or Permatex on the headstock gear housing.

I would be surprised if that top doesn't sweat oil when the lathe is running high speed and flailing oil around inside. Those handle mechanisims are interesting compared to the pegs on the case that detent the levers on my Monarch. Lathe is looking great, better get to making some more space in that shop for more tools! :-)

11:35 clickspring would cry

Gettin there!!

Keith, ever use "Sharkhide" on your bare or polished metals?? Stands up to cleaners and easy to re-coat (wipe on) without having pull parts off. Sold at most marine supply stores.

thanks keith .. looks trick

Keith,I hate to be critical, but is it possible for you to change the colour of the banner at the bottom ? YT uses the same colour for watched videos. Looking carefully I can tell the difference, but a shade other than red would provide contrast.Enjoy what you do,keep it up.Cheers.

@weshowe51

7 жыл бұрын

I've mentioned that before, and I totally concur. Maybe a nice Green will be more pleasing. :)

@paulmanson253

7 жыл бұрын

weshowe Green and red make blue,do they not ? Maybe they mix ?At any rate,green would work .

@exilfromsanity

7 жыл бұрын

Green and red make brown. Blue is a primary color, not made by mixing anything.

@paulmanson253

7 жыл бұрын

Luckystrike My memory of tinkering with colour filters dates to the early seventies. Now that I think of it,red and blue make green. I could never figure out colour subtraction versus colour addition. As well,there are three other colours,cyan being the only one I can remember. Add enough colours together,it is supposed to be black but in reality a muddy brown if paint. Gel filters are not the same as ground pigment.

@exilfromsanity

7 жыл бұрын

Goggle "color wheel". Green is yellow and blue.

GREAT video as always!! Question: Is there some kind of gasket under the top cover?

Hey Keith the gray wheel is a fine grit but will reshape aluminum and even some steels if you are not careful

Where is your anvil you just keep punishing that poor table lol. Looking good polished is great touch

its a unitized/convoluted wheel.

You're gaining on it! Going to be a beautiful machine. I noticed that sometime during this video the drive screws for the bottom of the spindle speed chart plat got installed. I also notice the red on the short, middle shift lever (at 17:11) but it doesn't appear to be red in later shots. Was that a reflection or is it painted red? Is that the reverse gear? I'm really enjoying this series of videos. Thanks for sharing.

3 1/2 gallons? wow!

I think the Sotchbrite wheel is "7s fine". That's what I use and it looks the same as yours.

Hey Keith, When you get around to putting the clutch linkage and shafts back together can you show that in detail? I have a lot of wear in my clutch linkages and needs a lot of work I think it's mainly in the gearbox where it crosses the bed and then runs around the back of the head stock. Also if you pull the compound shaft out can you measure that as well I need to make one the original one is missing and I need a better idea how it goes together. My Monarch is a 1944 18CW 18" swing and 30" between centers. I think the parts are the same between them Just newer on yours. Thanks. your lathe looks a lot better than mine right now.

A real "hammer mechanic" today. LOL

@flatblack39

7 жыл бұрын

I keep yelling, "Look where you want the hammer to hit!" The glancing blows make me wince!

Looks great, have you ever tried Shark Hide to protect the exposed metal? I live in central Florida and given our humidity & temperature everything rusts. Have been using for a couple of years and have great results.

Love the videos Keith. Can you please take a moment to tell us which 3m product exactly that you use? There are so many I don't have the slightest idea where to start - and they're so expensive I can't really afford to experiment till I find what I need. Thanks in advance!

Great video Keith, but what happened to "Monarch Lathe Restoration 2?" The video series skips from 1 to 3.

I need new sight glasses in my Model K. What were the Bijur part numbers?

Was that one cap screw higher than the rest (above the machine)?

@bsb0011

7 жыл бұрын

I was wandering the same thing. Maybe an old washer was still in the hole?

I've got my doubts whether that type of sight-glass will work to see the oil circulating. It's looks more like a dedicated level-gauge.

@bsb0011

7 жыл бұрын

There are 2 different ones. One is a oil fill (in the back), and the other is a drip through (the front one).

I don't know that I've ever seen you use the parts washer. Only mention it. I've been reading a bit about them. What solvent do you use?

Looks good, did you do anything to the plastic knobs and if so what?

@Landrew0

7 жыл бұрын

Nothing much happens to Bakelite knobs when they have been indoors.

@AdventuresinFabrication

7 жыл бұрын

I have a couple on a used machine that are beaten up so I was hoping there was something I could do.

@Landrew0

7 жыл бұрын

You could drill and tap an 8-ball as Adam Savage has done, or you could refinish it by sanding and lacquering it, unless of course it's too far gone. In that case, simply buy a new knob online.

In open gear system it is normally suggested using something like 80-90! Seems that you use a much lighter oil? Why? Is Vectra medium normally used on sliding surface?

@johnferguson7235

7 жыл бұрын

If you watch the video Keith made about restoring the information plates on the machine, one of those plates says that the machine should use Vectra oil.

@jusb1066

7 жыл бұрын

i guess it because it wont get warm, so needs to be thinner, and thats the grade suggested by the manufacturer on the plate

please fix the polish maschine^^

Machining beginner here: On the speed chart, it says "drift clutch when shifting". Can someone tell me what this means?

@ronrinock6943

7 жыл бұрын

Eli Douek It means to just barley engage the clutch so that the spindle is turning just a little. This is done so that the dogs on the sliding shift collars will line up with the dogs on the gears. Back a video or two he had the top cover of the headstock off and you can see how the shifting mechinism operates.

@jusb1066

7 жыл бұрын

images of this lathe drifting around a large parking lot, smoking its tyres...lol

Much better job with the wind-noise Keith. I hated to ride you on that, because you do such good work, but I thought it was fair criticism.

Looks great, have you ever tried Shark Skin to protect the exposed metal? I live in central Florida and given our humidity & temperature everything rusts. Have been using for a couple of years and have great results.