Thanks so much for this video, was tearing my hair out as to why I could read/write an off the shelf 95160, but not one pulled from an ECU. Did your 5V mod and it worked. Thanks again for the super clear instructions.

@sjoseph35san34

3 жыл бұрын

hello friend I don't know it may be your case but ... I bought a ch341a and what I bought in a virtual store came with a defect ... it even programs but with a malfunction ... so ... what happens when you close the ziff socket all the pins of the ch341a zif socket meet and when he asks to program the eeprom he ch341a sometimes burns the eeprom ... as i decided ... i removed the zif socket and put in a common 16 pin socket cobe right and I managed to program you noticed this defect in yours? found out with a mult-test ... thanks

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

@@sjoseph35san34 I've not seen this defect before, probably just a defective low end Chinese ZIF socket.

@sjoseph35san34

3 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock ok thanks

@sjoseph35san34

3 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock im brazilian thks so much

No need to solder any wires, cut any tracks or lift any legs at all, I just connect another jumper on the pin header between the 3.3v and 5v rails, this effectively bypasses the 3.3v regulator providing only 5v to the ZIF socket and IC.

@lourob5353

2 жыл бұрын

thanks steve can you post a pic of your jumper set up

@erd21

2 жыл бұрын

Great. Could you show a picture how to do it easier?

@kurtkaraan

Жыл бұрын

Any pictures on where you put the jumper?

@DropDicRandy

4 ай бұрын

whatt phot pic ?

@TuMundoAndroideMania

2 ай бұрын

how?

I'm very Happy I found your channel. I love finding new ways to smoke control modules... Cant wait to try this out.. Thank you!

Great info. I have not done this stuff in years and getting back to my EE roots.

Thanks again for this video. You programmed a 93cxx here. I used this guide to program a 95320 today. It worked for me on the 95320 even with 3.3V. Gracias

Comprehensive and cohesive! Thanks. 93C66 read without errors. I soldered an old ethernet cable directly to the socket then ditched AS programmer for Neo Programmer.

@melissarabache528

Жыл бұрын

hi, do you have a photo of your setup?

Thank you so much for putting this video together. I just followed your instructions and was able to crash reset my SRS computer with a 93c66. The only issue I had was with the programmer software you provided. I was able to read but not write. Downloaded Neo Programmer and was able to write.

I have succesfully read an ST 95080 eeprom from a Magnet Marelli IAW-4MW ECU with this modification. Thank you!

@ahmedcherraba9990

2 жыл бұрын

Good Did you use chine programmer

Thanks for this Tut, i was lost without the pinout. Informational for all, you can use the breakoutpins beside the socket to connect your Boards without Soldering or cut some lines on the PCB. 👍🏻

what a life saver. ive been using ponyprog over serial. my desktop died and i needed to write an 93c56 from my laptop. this saved the day.

Thank you for the lovely video. Worked like a dream. I was rewriting a ST 95 eeprom clearing a crash data as per your instructions by doing the hardware adoption. All went good. Keep up your hard work

@insigniamodified

11 ай бұрын

Did you have to modify the adaptor for the 95xx too or was that just for the 93xx chips? Cheers

Simplified 5V mod: just add a jumper between 3.3V and 5V. That's the two pins closest to the 25xx printed diagram. The 3.3V regulator does not blow up from this. Thank you, this worked! M95160

@ab-zg2jj

Ай бұрын

ou 341 green

thanks for the video, the information about 8 or 16 bit for the 93 was very useful

Great video, just got one of these for Mother Board bios or Hard drive read, didn't know it had more uses, this should save people a lot of time & $.

Good bless you and your family really work well on automotive eeproms

Thanks for your detailed work here. I was able to swap out the Alarm module on my '01 Boxter using this modded programmer. Saved about $1000

@alimosa4165

3 жыл бұрын

its work with u?

Brilliant ! 🤔😏👌👍 Added to my playlist.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, the tip was very helpful.

Extremely detailed and super useful info. You are the greatest! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks a lot from Czech !!

Thank you for this very informative video 👍

Work for me thanks i read first 95640 eprom vw blankpunk

Good thing I watched this vid. Was able to cancel my order. I didn't read the description that this does not support 9346 ic

Nice video. Thanks for sharing

Works Gread Thanks for this tutorial Video.

Tried this out the other day, thanks BTW. One thing I did Different was put a hard drive jumper on the 3v/5v pins on the top. It seemed to work fine. I might still lift the 3v center leg. One heck of a learning curve for peeps like me...lol Changed a XM vin before breaking my cheep clip.

@Twitchyii

3 жыл бұрын

Did you still have to do the custom SOIC8 clip conversion that he did? I purchased a ch341a that came with a SOIC8 adapter. I'm assuming that because of that, I likely just have to plug it in, put the jumper on the 3v/5v pins at the top (I need 5v as well), and I should be good to go?

@louisbaiani6262

Жыл бұрын

I jumped across the regulator, Vin to Vout basically (5V to 3V) by installing the jumper. I got 5V and yea h it seems like it would work correct?

Thanks so much...solve my problem..best regard

Thanks for that link. There's lots of other useful info on that site.. Gracias

Thank you very much for video.

I wish you would make a more detailed video going over your bodge wiring technique under the pins. That process is very difficult to understand with the visual representation you provided.

Hi, Thanks for the tutorial. I've tried to do as in your video using IC FM93C46 taken from EasyTouch GCU Tester's Glucose chip, but without modifying the VCC pin. It also worked with 3.3V VCC voltage, both to read and write this chip.

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

That would be a non-automotive application, so as expected. Consumer electronics use 3.3V devices. Automotive use 5V devices.

@wawandharmawan2441

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock OK, thanks

Thanks for this video!

Very useful video👍

You are awesome! Thank you!

Thanks. I did it and it works.

thanks for this video !

Perfect video!

Very helpful thanks

Thanks bro it's working well thank a lot

DrShock Can you please teach how you modify it? I don't know where to start. How did you connect/modify the traces?

당신은 천재에요

ARGH!! I screwed up. I somehow managed to skip the third step in modifying the programmer. I didn't cut the 3.5v line Thank you for your excellent, clear, informative video that only a dimwit could possibly mess up! *sigh* I hope I didn't kill my EEPROM. Back to Amazon to order another CH341a board.

@drewjohnson5402

5 ай бұрын

what did it do to your board? I have one that i didnt cut the 3.5 v line but it didnt cause any damage

I bought a slightly different version of the CH341 programmer (not "black") and it doesn't have a dedicated +5V pin. The only place where +5V can be measured on the pcb is upstream and downstream of the "3V" :-) regulator (the large regulator leg and the middle leg) and in the USB connector. Do you think it is safe to use the USB connector +5V and bridge it with pin 8 in the adapter for write power?

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

That used to be the problem with the earlier generation of these black edition ones too. Since there's no jumper, the BIOS type folks loved it being 3.3VDC but that's useless for automotive work. So yeah, you're going to get clean 5VDC from the laptop/PC USB jack as input to the regulator supplying your 3.3VDC. Depending on the regulator type, there might be a 5V passthru pin you can bodge directly from, otherwise I'd just take it from the input to the regulator. I wouldn't take it directly from the USB jack, it'll be less iron heat to tap the regulator.

@jazzyjoe1848

3 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Thanks! I'll tap the regulator input.

congratulations, your video is the best. i have a cuestion: the pin 6 and pin 5 of 93xx are conected? thanks for your work. grettings from argentina!

@DrShock

4 жыл бұрын

thanks, it depends on the device you are working with and its use of the ORG pin 6, so you may want to rewatch this part at 2:52

Thanks so so much sir.

Tq so mu h sir it is very very usefull for me

thanks for video

everything works . thx

Hello Dr Shock,Thank you very much for the good job you're doing.I was Wondering,Is there a way to write or change manually the hexadecimals on the Immobilizer file?Thank you

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. The AsProgrammer software I mentioned (link in the description) handles that part, the main part of the apps window is an editor into the chips memory. So you can type over what's there and change it. It's extremely powerful, and dangerous. Be sure you know what you're changing and why, and have made a backup of the chips contents prior. You could easily _brick_ a module doing such edits.

thank you sir, fixed my car

Hi, great vid! I've just tried this with a 93C56AE off the info Display of my wife's Opel. I wired an adapter as you described but all I got was FF everywhere regardless of whether Pin 6 was Vss or Vcc. I've just noticed on your adapter there are no signs of cut traces before you put the tiny wires around the pins. How does that work? Thanks!

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, yes I _repurposed_ the small adapter board for this by cutting each of the traces that are not needed for the adapter circuit first, and then rewiring it to serve as a 93X adapter instead. I didn't show the specifics of this, as everyone may have a different approach they want to take to making their 93X adapter. I went this route as it's cosmetically cleaner, you cannot tell it was rewired because all the bodge wires are hidden underneath the black plastic of the pin connector. Either way, you definitely cannot leave the original traces in place of anything you would reuse, as that would create short circuits when laying down the 93X adapter wiring! So a couple of tips to account for reading 0xff: - Some circuit designs *cannot* be read in-circuit with a test clip, the chip has to be desoldered from the board and read off board. This is because some circuit designs will allow the test clip power line to power up additional chips, which then create bus contention to read the EEPROM blocking any reading. - Chinese import testclips are of extremely poor quality, you may have to fiddle with them a number of times to make a good connection. Be sure you have the red lined pin one of the chip in the correct orientation. USA made Pomona testclips are a huge upgrade. - Automotive EEPROMs _require_ 5VDC to be written, this is totally different than EEPROMs of the same number and type used in personal computers and consumer electronics. Many circuit designs will require the 5VDC even to read the chip. So you must make the voltage mod also when doing automotive work. - Some chips have a security feature that prevents being read, this requires additional adapter mods that are outlined in the video description. Such chips have a 93Sxxx numbering rather than 93Cxxx.

@KyleMontanaro

2 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Very clever! Thanks for the info, it will surely be a huge help! I've tried both on the board and also desoldered it and clipped the chip in. My guess now would be that 5v mod is probably needed to read it. i'll try that next time if I don't ruin anything in the process 😅 Thanks for the info, stuff like this is really hard to come by!

Great Video ! Would this be a good Alternative for Service programming GM Bcm’s for 2000-2010 approximate years? Might be able to bypass tech 2 interfacing and Gm sos.

@DrShock

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, yeah over the next couple of weeks I'll be posting some videos illustrating exactly some of those concepts, for the early to mid 2000s designs of radios, XM receivers, and BCMs using this modified programmer. The BCMs in particular of these years are locked out of SPS because the Tech2 is designed to treat them as locked once programmed, thus blocking using an used one at all. So I'll be sharing some approaches to get around that.

I did this mod, but the chip was not detected on the IC900 chip in a Lexus ECU. I followed Binh's instructions in his video, and he referenced this video, which I also referenced. When I connect to the clamp to the chip, Windows makes a ding like it recognizes being hooked up to something new, but the software doesn't recognize the chip. Do you have any tips for troubleshooting? My solder joints are probably crappy with a $6 soldering iron outside, and I have no way of knowing if the conformal could is completely removed from the IC, which is still on the PCBA. Maybe the fact Windows recognizes *something* when I connect means all the pins are making good contact. Could it be a driver issue? TIA for any tips. I'm thinking about getting the CH341A v. 1.7 because it has a 5V switch. Is that a drop in replacement for the main CH341A you modified? I presume I still have to modify the connector I install into the main board as per your instructions.

@DrShock

11 ай бұрын

The sound from the Windows operating system has nothing to do with the EEPROM chip. That is just the USB handshake recognition from the programmer itself. In fact, for the programmer I'm showing in this video, hearing this just on connecting to a device is abnormal behavior. It's actually quite rare to be able to use a test clip on an EEPROM in circuit due to the test clip supplying power to the rest of the board inadvertently, so I'd first suggest desoldering the device from the PCB (printed circuit board) and attempting the read that way. This _IC900_ chip you mention seems to be just a 93C56 type EEPROM @ 5VDC. So you'll need to do the 5V mod to the programmer that this video goes over for the correct voltage, as well as the pinout mod so that the programmer can communicate with a 93XXX device using its native 25XXX ZIF socket interface. Lastly, you'll have to use the software I mention in this video in order for the 93XXX to be accessible using this particular programmer.

@lunchbox9759

8 ай бұрын

We’re you ever able to figure this out ?

Thank you for pinout information, I was able to read S93C66 from my Prius Plug-in 2013 Steering Angle sensor by doing your modification to CH341A. Now I am trying to find proper .bin file for my car, tried one advice to erase portion of data with FF but now instead of reading 850 degrees it reads 0 and lost communication. Others show on video that it should have some data other than FF in the middle of the file. Some forums offer file only for members. Will do more research.

Hello. Thank you so much for useful guide. I have a question. I removed voltage regulator for +5V modification. And I shorted voltage regulator's IN and ADJ pad. Does this cause a problem ?

@DrShock

4 жыл бұрын

If your Black Edition is like the one I show in the video, this regulator is only for the 3.3V as the USB is supplying regulated 5VDC from the PC connection so it's not needed. But the ADJ is pin 1 on that regulator, and it's probably tied to ground (I don't have the schematic for this Black Edition to confirm) so I wouldn't suggest doing that not knowing. Just leave it as I showed it with pin 2 OUT raised.

@ahmettas80

4 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock i read eeprom today. Thank you so much again :)

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

There's no voltage select "jumper" on this particular programmer. That's one obvious reason for the bodge wire add. You have to address *both* power up to the device _and_ the programming voltage pulse output. Automotive grade requires 5V for both. Cutting the circuit board trace and bodge wiring it covers just the power up. We need to insure no use of 3.3V sourced for programming so we lift the regulator as well (while not all black edition PCBs are the same I show both mods for completeness).

Thanks for this video. I haven't flashed an eeprom since repairing Ms Pac Man PCBs, I never thought I'd be doing this again. If this works out you've saved me some big bucks by allowing to reflash a replacement SKREEM module in my Mopar and avoiding the dealership. The old saying "you can't teach an old dog new tricks" is BS. Now if I can figure out how to buy you that coffee....

If using a testclip is it not just easier to change the pinout and connected cables in the crocodile clip end? or cut and join the cabling instead of making minute changes to the board?

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

In older automotive you only need to be concerned with 5VDC so a permanent board change for that mod works out great. Croc type test clips are hit or miss doing work on automotive circuit boards. Usually too many obstructions so a pogo pin type clip can have better fitment. In still other modules you'll have to remove the device from the board altogether. Having an adapter between the programmer and these attachments let's you swap different tools in as needed. But this is really something you customize for what you need and what works best for you.

if I apply this mod, would it work with 1.8V adapter required by some 25xxx chips? does the 1.8V adapter work with 5V or just with 3.3V so if I plan to use it I'd better acquire another ch341a?

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

This mod is to customize the programmer for automotive device use, +5VDC only.

Thanks Dr Shock, I finally feel like im in the home stretch. Working on a BCM for 2006 Colorado. The Eprom is a 9365217. Would that be in the 93xxx series? Just starting to the mods.

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

I would expect it to be a 95xxx type eeprom (perhaps a 95040). But haven't ever worked on a Colorado, so could be different. It won't be identical, different BCM model an all, but you might try my other vid here for that chip type - kzread.info/dash/bejne/Yn-j0I9_mqeWlLA.html

Thanks for replying so fast drshock, I have another question, after I bodge wired the modification, when I plug in the zif adapter into the ch341a all the lights turn off (the red power light) and it doesn’t get detected anymore any idea why it might be doing that?

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

That sounds like you're grounding something, I would double check your work for shorts.

@seda8883

3 жыл бұрын

DrShock thanks boss I’ll recheck

Hi from the UK! I wonder if you could shed some light on an issue I have trying to read a 24c16 eeprom from a 2014 Land Rover odometer. Apologies if this is a silly question I am not super experienced with programming. Here goes, I have modified my CH341a with the 3.3v mod because my understanding was that I would be in danger of damaging the 24xxx chip trying to read off the board at 5v, however I am experiencing FFs and 00’s when attempting to read with asprogrammer. You say that for automotive stuff (especially older automotive stuff) that 3v is useless so should I be attempting to read at 5v to give me an valid read? Any help at all would be hugely appreciated, I have pretty much hit a brick wall at this point and not sure where to go from here! I managed to read a 93xxx from a PC motherboard before I did the 3.3v mod but since modding I can’t seem to replicate that for testing purposes (verifying the software + driver setup) Great video by the way, very clear and concise info regarding 93xx 94xx eeprom chips. Liked and subscribed 👍🏼

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. In the USA, all American manufacturers use 5V devices. I can't say whether that's the same in the UK, but I would strongly suspect it to be the case. Regardless, you should be able to read the device, the correct voltage is usually only a write concern. So when you cannot read a correctly installed USA made Pomona test clip (Chinese ones tend to be single use in nature) then it's more likely a circuit board limitations. In practice very few automotive PCBs can be read in circuit. The vast majority are designed in a way that prohibits this. That's because the test clip voltage powers up other devices on the board, and you get bus contention. So in these situations, you have to desolder and remove the device from the PCB, and program it that way out of circuit. Then resolder it back.

@Mark-yl3ye

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Thank you for the reply what you said makes a lot of sense! Kind regards!

Great video, Question. If i used breadboard jumpers to the side 5v connection do i have to still cut the trace to the 3.3v and lift the middle leg on regulator? I think im going to use the 16bit option and tie pin 6 and pin 8 to the 5v on side yellow connector.

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

You can accomplish the mod however you like, but you cannot supply two different voltages on the same trace. Some modification of the circuit board will be required as we showed in the video there is a defect of sorts, in that there is only a single trace on the PCB and you cannot simply jumper between 3.3V and 5V at the same time on that single trace.

@meaneme

3 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Ok,Thanks. Another question. Before the mod i get 5v at zif on pins 1,2,5,6. Is that the same on yours before mod? Thanks

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

_Before_ the mod, the version I had showed 3.3V at the programming pins. Hence the need to modify it for automotive work. Some versions are the opposite, they only work at 5V and if you work on PC BIOS type stuff you have to mod it to 3.3V. Unfortunately the typical mishmash of Chinese stuff.

Do you have a clip or adapter that will work with A86D (93C86) that is MSOP8 size?

Thank you for this video. Followed the link for the manufacturer's device driver, and seemed to install ok on my Windows10 64-bit,, but I don't see the device listed in my device manager, whether I have it plugged in, or not. Any advice?

@Merryfrankster_

Жыл бұрын

Never mind - the device does show up, but not where you expect it. It is in DEvice Manager under "Interface." Now at least I can continue troubleshooting knowing that the driver is installed.

@DrShock My goal for learning this type of technical information is to make my "junkyard" purchased radio in my Chevy Caprice / Holden Commadore work in its new home. The issue for me isnt that the radio is locked but its all in one comboed with the hvac controls so i have no heat or AC at all because of this.. Ive been working on the CH341A setup i purchased from your links this weekend and had moderate success. I was able to get the software and drivers into my new laptop and successfully launched the program. Heres where i have had a few problems. After hooking up the CH341A to an 8-pin EEprom that turns out to be a 64bit chip i did successfully connect and read the chip according to the ASprogrammer software. However the first few times i read it there was no information at all displayed. Confused and somewhat disheartened i looked over how the ribbon from the "black clip on tool" to the reader was connected to insure it was indeed in the 24 slot with the #1 pinout in the correct location. Finding i had reversed the pin one i corrected this and read the chip again. Once again success, but no info at all showing in the software. It wasn't until i moved the ribbon chip pins to the 25 section of the reader that it gave me some form of info. mainly a jumbled letters and stuff along the right side of the screen. Nothing familiar or close to a VIN. So, my question to you is: 1. Could you show a proper way to set up the CH341 usb reader for use in automotive 8-pin reading? 2. Could you maybe give an overview of how to tell what type of chips we are seeing in the boards? 3. Maybe a resource of how to know what kind of chip we are seeing (vs the weird combo of numbers and letters printed on the chip) and how to correlate it with the list of chips in the software would be extremely helpful. 4.Maybe an overview of the ASprogrammer software and setting it for specific auto based uses? 5. Lastly, I recognize that you seem to be able to go straight to the chip on the board that might release the lock off the radio, how is this possible and will you teach us? I wouldn't request any of this without knowing that it requires your time and expertise of which i would gladly donate again for these questions to be answered. I bet more than just me would love the in-depth content as well. Thoughts?

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

There are four different EEPROMs you can encounter in automotive electronics from the 1990s thru the 20 teens. Those would be the 24XXX series, the 25XXX series, the 93XXX series, and the 95XXX series. You have to correctly identify the EEPROM you're working with, in order to get the adapter ribbon cable plugged into the correct half of the CH341a ZIF socket. Past that there is making sure you get pin 1 lined up with the red line of the ribbon cable/test clip. This is sometimes indicated on the chip by a dot or bevel. Sometimes though there's no physical indication so you have to use the meter to try and identify the pin for Vcc and Vss manually. Another caveat is very few circuit board designs can actually be read in-circuit with a testclip. The vast majority of the time, the EEPROM chip has to be desoldered from the circuit board and read/written that way. Then it can be re-installed onto the board when the reflash is completed. Finally, the cheap asian import testclips are only good for about five reads before they lose their spring tension or the tips bend. If you need do this frequently, I'd highly recommend getting a USA made Pomona Electronics brand testclip for SOIC8/SOP8 devices.

@gaatvr

2 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock One chip indicates: 24c64wq top line - st208p or st288p bottom line so this would be a 24xxx series? so it would actually have 24/25/93/95 in the number printed on the chip? I think thats where most of the confusion is setting in.

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

That appears to be a good number yes, 24C64 is a legit EEPROM in the 24XXX series. And yes, the first two digits signify that. But it's actually kinda common for GMs suppliers like Delphi to leave these numbers off and put their own part number on it. When that happens, you need to have more experience in how to figure out what the chip type is manually by trial and error. But in your case, I would proceed with it as a 24XXX series and use the 24 half of the CH341a ZIF socket and set AsProgrammer to this specific chip type of 24C64. You should identify the manufacturer of the chip as well, by the logo silkscreened on it. As there are programming differences from supplier to supplier. AsProgrammer will provide the various chip manufacturers it supports. A good reference for the logos is how-to.fandom.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_(chip)_manufacturers_by_their_logos/all_logos

@gaatvr

2 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Thank you for your help. Trial and error has been my greatest teacher along my life.

How did you bodge wire under the pin headers? Did u do it with the pins on? Can you use any Solder wire to bodge wire?

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

You can use any solder, though 0.015" diameter is easier to work with on such a small target. You would implement the adapter bodge wiring I mention at 4:02 with 30 awg wire of the type used in wire wrapping prototype boards. I did mine to the traces on the small adapter circuit board I showed, and then soldered the pins in _afterwards_ . Think of this like wire wrapping to the pins but tack soldering to the trace first instead.

I built this adaptor just like you did and I ohmed it out to make usre it all matched once i was done. However when i go to read a 93c76 8 bit i get a "microwire ic not responding check setting" error. When i put the chip in and plug the unit it both led lights are on and ideas???

@DrShock

5 ай бұрын

If you are attempting to read the still chip soldered in the circuit with a test clip, you might try desoldering it and reading it on its own instead.

Many thanks for the super well narrated video. Q: Microwire 93s56 -w is that the same as a 93C56 for data and programming. I have purchase a new Instrument cluster for my car and I need to change the the Microwire EEprom 93s56-w or program the new from the old. Im not wanting to change mileage on the odometer just copy the old info from old to new. Sorry for my ignorance, but I'm new to this.

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. Almost, the "S" indicates it is a security featured device, check the video description for some additional tips with these types.

After following your guide, unfortunately, I was unable to read the 93c86 on my KESSY module for my Volkswagen Phaeton, even after desoldering the chip and reading out of the circuit, is there something I'm missing? I tied pin 6 to ground, then I tried to pin 6 to VCC as recommended for 16bit, even when the 93c should be 8bit like you said, and still nothing, using the CH341a and Dupont connectors to wire everything non-permanently, triple checked everything, using 5v yellow pinout for VCC voltage at 5v, could this be the issue? the other non-VCC pins are still 3.3v, but even then I still should be able to read the EEPROM, could also maybe be that the EEPROM is fried? i also tried to read the donor board's EEPROM out of the circuit and resulted in the same error in As programmer, IC not responding, ive also had so many CH341a drivers installed from previous bios flashing on tons of motherboards, so maybe one could be interfering? should I try a virgin windows environment? Thank you. i also tried using the spare little board to wire the connections permanently onto the board, still using (confirmed) 5v from the yellow pin and still, nothing, might buy another CH341a to mod, as my original was modded from 5v to 3.3v (reverse from what is done in this vid as mine was faulty from factory, would output 9v on 5v pin). tried a fresh 341a from one of my buddies, brand new from the bag, could read 25wxx chips just fine, but same result for trying to read EEPROM from kessy, 93c86. Help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

My initial reaction is some short occurring in your implementation of the pin adapter I go over in the video, or installing it in the wrong section of the programmers ZIF socket. For a 93XXX adapter, it has to plug into the 25XXX section of the ZIF socket, same as with a 95XXX. Do no use the 24XXX section of the ZIF. Another possibility, though you don't mention any "S" in the part number, is a security type of EEPROM. In the description, I go over the additional wiring needed for this type of device to be read/written successfully. Otherwise, I'd offer the following basic guide of problem elimination: - Verify you have the CH341a setup properly by just reading (and writing) a vanilla 24XXXX and 25XXX device. This insures both the CH341a hardware is OK, and that you have the AsProgrammer software correctly installed along with the USB drivers for Windows. - _Carefully_ re-review the 93XXX pinout adapter implementation you have. There should be *zero* bodge wires and/or traces other than those shown in the video slides. Otherwise there will be shorts. Verify that you are getting the correct +5VDC (not +3.3VDC as that 3.3V will not power up an automotive 93XXX correctly) at your adapter on the power pin. Verify the ground pin of your pinout adapter also by using it alone to measure the +5VDC. - Verify that the version of AsProgrammer you are using is the one I recommended, or higher, *only* as earlier versions of that software had severe bugs and would fail to read 93XXX and 95XXX devices. - Try to read a 95XXX device, as this would verify you have the right level of AsProgrammer installed. I hope these steps help. Unless you have an "S" version chip, the problem reading two 93XXX's in a row is most certainly in your setup (presuming of course the chip is an actual 93XXX and marked as such on the silkscreening).

Thanks for this, I have made the modifications and can successfully read a RH56 chip (M93C56) 16bit. However I cannot write to it, Asprogrammer just hangs when attempting to write. I checked the voltage when connected up and measure 4.8v. What are some possible trouble shooting areas? Thanks

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

If you're still working with a testclip, I would try desoldering the device from the PCB and programming it off board first.

@r3v3r3nt_4

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Same result. But I believe I have a firmware or driver issue. ASProgrammer V2.0.03a will read but not write using CH34A1 Hardware option. V2.1.0.13 will not work at all on either hardware option.

Great .Tnks.

Hello! I need to read and write the 95320 series. Need to change the wire when connecting 25xxx?

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

Yep, covered at 0:56

#DrShock I followed all your instructions even connect 5V and install driver and reader software but the CH341A brand QSKAII with test Clip for EEPROM 93c56, reads "FF FF" every time even when it shows red light and green light when reads EEPROM. Please help.

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

Well for the 93XXX devices you need to build the pin adapter I show in the video. This pin adapter will sit in between the 25XXX ZIF socket on the CH341A and your device. This maps the pins correctly between the two EEPROM designs. So if you have triple checked the adapter wiring, and that you have the pin 1 orientation correct, then you may have a circuit that board that cannot be read in-circuit. This is fairly common, and in which case you'll need to desolder the device and read it out of circuit instead.

Did you cut the traces on the adapter board before you run the new wires? i don't see that on the video

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

The video goes over the electronics background on building a ZIF socket adapter for the 93XXX series EEPROMs so that this cheap programmers utility can be extended for automotive. However building an adapter is an electronics exercise left for the viewer. There are many different approaches to implementing the schematic slides I shared, you can even breadboard it. To build the 93XXX adapter it has to be _clean_ slate with no traces at all of course as you are building the pin mapping in the slides I shared. I built mine repurposing an existing board, so that it would all fit underneath the black pin header but I am not encouraging that as it requires a microscope to do. You build the adapter using whatever you can improvise that meets the pin mapping requirements.

Hi, there's something I don't quite understand, do I have to cut all connections on the adapter board? (because they are all 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and so on) and then solder wires to the numbers in the schematic? it's not quite clear to me in the video, i want to read and write a 93c56 eeprom

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I get a number of comments/questions about my choice to repurpose the little experiment board that is included with these programmers. It's totally optional, just seems very convenient to me since the board is included with most sellers of these. So what you do is make sure, pin to pin, you adapt the board to match the slides shown in the video. Most of the traces do get cut, and replaced with bodge wires that will be hidden underneath the pins (you desolder that part first of course). But if you don't want to tear up the little board, you can wire wrap something with a socket or even just hit Eagle and design your own little board and let www.oshpark.com make a few prototypes for you. No matter how you do it, you just need to build an adapter that maps the programmers ZIF socket pins to what is needed for the 93xxx layout instead.

@gertbeuk1506

2 жыл бұрын

Thank, is solder the wires direct on the usb stick on the number you write in the picture but i cant read the eeprom, is have not an 93c56 but an 93s56, this one is not in the list, can you you wit this?

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

@@gertbeuk1506 The "S" or security devices require an extra bodging step, listed in the video description.

@gertbeuk1506

2 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock i cant get it working, i try to solder the wires but i still cant read it. i do something wrong but i dont see it. i follow your schema and write it down so i have the wires from the adapter to the programmer on the right place but not working

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

@@gertbeuk1506 Being you mentioned it's an "S" device, did you make the modified connection mentioned in the video description for that type?

hey Dr.i am not a pro,just playing with this ch341a. so for the 93c56 eeprom i should connect pin 5 and 6 of the adapter to pin 4 on the ch341a??

@DrShock

5 ай бұрын

No, you'll have to make _all_ of the pin connections I went over for it to work. Not just these you mention. What the adapter you need to make is doing is mapping the pinout of the 93XXX series devices into the _positions_ in the ZIF socket that were intended for the 25XXX series. The AsProgrammer software will then take care of programming the CH341a to R/W as needed to these pins in their newly rewired configuration.

@arieettinger8175

5 ай бұрын

thank you for the quick response.i still have a few questions but ill ask then tomorrow.happy new year and hope to hear from you later @@DrShock

Can this be modified to get a D93A66 working? It's the EEPROM used in the BCMs of 2006-20?? Impalas. I thought making the adapter for the 93XXX would do the trick, but it didn't. I went ahead and just removed the original EEPROM and put it in the replacement BCM, but I'd still like to make a backup file of it, just in case...

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

As best I recall, you need to read a 93Axx in 16-bit mode. Try as a 93C66 in 16-bit mode setting in AsProgrammer. The only 93xxx I'm aware of that needs a bit of a different wiring adapter is the 93Sxx and I explain those extra pins in the video description. If it still does not read, it may be that the Impala BCM is simply a circuit design where the chip cannot be read in-circuit (this is due to the testclip powering up several other chips on the same read/write or data lines). There are many where this is the case, and you have to desolder the chip and read it outside the circuit.

Gaining hope as I see you repeatedly unlock radios and prep them to learn their new home. I have ordered the tools you suggested; test clip, lead wire, ch341a mini programmer and white thermal grease. Now please advise me on what software I can use on my iMac to run the programmer to get the Delphi 28379849 to mate with my 2013 Acadia. Thanks

@DrShock

10 ай бұрын

Sadly, I'm not aware of _any_ software that exists for MacOS which supports this particular chip programmer.

With the 95xxx eeproms, would I just need to bypass the 3.3v regulator and run the 5V wire and use the 25xxx socket?

@DrShock

4 жыл бұрын

Right, like I mention at 1:14 its just the hardware mods from the video plus using the specific programming software mentioned. There's no adapter needed for the 95xxx series just special software and 5V write capability (I've not come across anything else up thru 2010 GM vehicles yet).

@nvsproduction1570

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock please share me the special sofware Asprogrammer for 93Cxx with ch341

Dr Shock I have the black CH341A programmer and have performed the +5V out modification but cannot seem to cut the +3.3V trace as you show at the 6:50 mark in the video! The trace coming from the +3.3V pin is not visible as it is on your CH341A programmer. I'm wanting to use this programmer to change the VIN number in a GM radio I purchased from a salvage yard that is "Locked" like in your other video. What will happen if I try to use the programmer as is? Will I damage the EEPROM chip in the radio?? Your videos are excellent and informative!

@DrShock

Ай бұрын

It may be that they changed the circuit board layout on the latest programmer as this video is from a few years ago. You would need to take a voltmeter and see what the voltage regulator output(s) are on yours to confirm whether it's operating in a 3.3VDC or a 5VDC mode. If you do not have 5V, then you won't be able to write anything to an automotive EEPROM.

@terryarmstrong3078

Ай бұрын

@@DrShock If I power up the programmer and measure with a voltmeter across the ground pin and the pin where the the jumper wire was added I get 5.10 volts and it also measures 5.10 volts at the +3.3V pin! So, I believe this should work for the radio........your thoughts??

@DrShock

Ай бұрын

That's odd for the 3.3VDC pin. I could only speculate the Chinese have broken it in the other direction now. ;-) Yeah, if that's what you're measuring no mods required.

Good evening everyone, my question is if after having made that modification to be able to program the 93xx series can it continue to be used for both 24xx and 93xx ???

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

The 93xxx is an external adapter + software, so has no change to the programmer. The 5V mod is so you can do automotive versions of all these devices. That one is permanent, unless you do a toggle or jumper approach, you'll lose the general electronics type 3.3V versions of the same devices.

When I make the adapter do I cut the old trace from pin to pin for the 93 adapter or just run the wire and leave the traces connected?

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

You would have to cut the existing traces, otherwise of course you won't end up with the proper circuit paths for adapting the chip pinout. You're just reusing the connector if you go the repurposing route. You're not reusing the traces.

@classicjr1995

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks now I just have to figure put how to no witch eeprom is in my radio and other moudles

Hello, for the 95xx series you simply have to modify the ch341a voltages, but not the adapter, right?

@DrShock

Ай бұрын

For automotive applications only, yes. Also you have to have the correct level of AsProgrammer, or similar, software that includes the algorithm support for the 25XXX family of devices.

I need your help pls, would swapping the 93c56 EEPROM from an old bad ECU to a new replacement work with the old keys? Logically I thought it would but I thought I need to ask a specialist, the car is a Lexus is200, both ECUs have the same part no btw

@DrShock

4 ай бұрын

I typically only work on GM modules, and could only say for those that a chip swap between the same part number modules would be fine. For a Lexus, I would expect similar behavior but can't say for sure.

@drossonero7595

4 ай бұрын

@@DrShock Thanks, I appreciate it, there's only one way to know then..

Ok I did the 5 volt mod, do I need to mod board for a 09400464 gm chip which I believe its a 24C08 Chip. I have tried to read it with just the 5 volt mod and I get an error. Any suggestions?

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

No, as mentioned in the vid the wiring adapter is just for 93XXX chips not 24XXX or 95XXX.

Finally an actual informative video! Now, hopefully I can find a new 93c56 chip and virginize the immobilizer in my Lexus. On that note, does anyone know where to find 93c56EM8 chips? They seem to be impossible to find :c

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. eBay is usually your best bet for chips like that, here's an affiliate link that shows a few sellers with the EM8s - ebay.us/yn8tzC

@sprinkletits01

2 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Thanks man! You just ended what seemed like an endless search

Hello I’m trying to read a 93c56 chip on a Toyota ECU I believe it’s a 16bit chip i’ve tried the circuit setup for both 16 and 8 but but the program says micro ic not responding check settings. Do I have to remove it from the board ? I’ve seen x tool and autel do it on the board thanks,Brandon.

@brandonmacchia1073

Жыл бұрын

So I took the chip off and now it reads success but everything is zero’d showing no data not sure what I’m doing wrong does size and address length matter ? Does it set that automatically when I select the chip ?

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

Its often the case that the IC has to be removed from the board in order for the power supplied via the testclip not to inadvertently power up some other device which then causes contention for the address and data bus lines. If you end up reading 0xFF everywhere, scroll thru it a bit as many times the upper portion of these chips is purposely left blank, at least with GM. If you're reading 0x00 though, this is more likely a problem with the hookup. Make sure you have pin one of the device correctly oriented with the testclip, or whatever type of EEPROM adapter you are using off board. Make sure you are using the appropriate _side_ of the USB programmers ZIF socket like I review in this video. And if you have to make any the USB programmer modifications, or pinout adapters, I show in this video then re-check all of that work for accuracy.

So is it always better to desolder the chip or can I try to read/write the eeprom in-circuit first and if this not work desolder it? Or could I damage it in-circuit on the read-/write-process?

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

I usually attempt a read in circuit first, it won't damage anything as long as you have the correct pin orientation for attaching the clip. If there is no read, or garbage data in the read, I move on to removing the chip from the printed circuit board.

@SubiCarLous

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Good to know, thank you for the information! Is it also the same for the write process?

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

Reading is the easier process to get away with in circuit, writing is the hardest.

I cannot seem to get the lift up of the pin to the 3 volt. I don't have 3 hands to hold the iron, then a small pin or micro flat head screw driver and then something to hold the ch341a adapter. I am actually very good at soldering, but this tight space is very difficult, any ideas ?

@nahoh

Жыл бұрын

Cut it

DrShock....I did the mod and checked it several times to make sure it is correct. I can't read anything but 0's from the chip. F's if there is no chip in the pinch(pomona style) clip. I have 3 ch341a black devices. I modified the second one as per your vid., but still can't read the 95080 chip. After looking at a schematic for the CH341a and it looks like the same thing can be accomplished by removing the 3.3v regulator and place a shunt across the 3.3 and 5v pins. This puts 5v on the vcc pins . I will only be using this on automotive eeproms. I still get the same thing when I read the chip. 0's. I've ordered some fresh 95080 chips for play but they haven't arrived yet. Any ideas why I can't read anything but 0's?

@DrShock

6 ай бұрын

You trying to read this 95080 desoldered from the board or in-circuit? If the later, remove it from the board and re-try.

@fairwindsii

6 ай бұрын

@@DrShock I have two chips 1001xxx Delphi chip and 95080 chip from two different BCMs. Both are removed from the boards. Using the right out of the box adapter and ribbon cable with pomona style clip, I can read both chips. I can't read them if f I use the modified adapter. I didn't try to read them in circuit. My point is, my CH341a programmers do not need a modified adapter.

Hello, is there a way to trouble shoot? I have made all the modifications to the CH341 but I cant seem to get the ASProgrammer to read the chip (93c56) or get the run light to illuminate. I ge the CH341 error code in the ASP message window.

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

So the basics on this simple device for trouble shooting - Make sure the CH341 is working _before_ making any modifications. Due to the low cost manufacturing, there can be defects/duds as well as basic issues like incorrect device driver installation. Use a simple desolded out of circuit 24C08 type device to test baseline working order - no testclip usage. - As you make changes, test each change. Test 5V modification first, verify baseline operation is maintained with this mod before moving to the next. - Test your separately created 93XXX pinout adapter. First tone out the adapter with a continuity tester to verify no mistakes made during creation. Then do basic reads of a 93XXX device out of circuit. Very important, you want a baseline before wasting alot of time with a circuit that cannot be read via a test clip. This approach helps catch problems before they add up and are far more difficult to track down. Hope this helps,

@monsterislandstar4921

2 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Yes it does, Thank you.

How did you go about cutting the connection between the 3.3V pin and the serial ports? You mentioned it, but didn't say how you did it. I am a total noob at this stuff.

@terrycoe1602

5 ай бұрын

I am working to erase the VIN lock on a Cruze radio, that you showed in another video, and I think this is that last thing I need to do in order to be able to complete the job.

@DrShock

5 ай бұрын

If you're repurposing an existing PCB (printed circuit board) as I did, you can use an Exacto type knife to cut the circuit trace(s).

Hi, how can one tell which serie the eeprom is, is it on the numbers written on the chip? Mine reads S93C66. Does it mean it's a 93 series?

@DrShock

2 жыл бұрын

In your case yes, a 93xxx series. The "S" might denotes that it is a secure model, so more difficult to read (check the description text). Sometimes though automotive manufacturers/suppliers make up their own numbers called house numbers. And then it's a bit harder to figure out. But in your case, obvious.

Thank you for this video. I have a 2016 Sierra with a Bose Amplifier module that has a internal error. I can save $300 if I can get a salvage yard amplifier module but was wondering if you knew if this eeprom tool would work on that type of system. Alternatively I can swap the chip off of the old module into the "new" module but I don't know if that would be all that's needed on a module like that and I don't want to brick my existing module since it still functions with its quirks. I do have all of the hardware to program a new module from the AC delco website, just would like to save $300. Thank you!

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

I'm not aware of any sort of VIN lock for an amplifier module, as long as what you are describing is a physically separate unit from the radio module itself. You shouldn't need to edit or touch the amplifier modules' circuit board, and just proceed to re-calibrating the salvage yard amplifier module with SPS2 on Techline Connect using either an MDI or MDI2 scan tool. Now, it's possible that with 2016 and other newer years GM has blocked re-using an used module of this sort within Techline Connect. That is happening more and more with the Global A and newer platforms lately. But I'm not personally familiar with this.

@Mr-Payne

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock ok thank you. I'm pretty certain this is a separate module from the radio, but if I unplug the MOST bus from the amp the entire radio goes down do I will do some more digging. I am worried about bricking my truck 😂

@Mr-Payne

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock You are correct. I received the module from the salvage yard today. Plugged it in and it works without programming. I also learned that I have a sub in the console that I do not remember ever working since apparently this amplifier has been non functional since I bought the truck new. I think that replacing this module cleaned up some noise over the network and now my truck shifts normally. How could that be you ask? The amplifier has a signal repeater for the cam sensor to adjust the radio volume as the vehicle accelates. So far so good. Thank you for the video, I'm not sure I would have tried the salvage yard module without it.

Hi, thanks for this vid. Can you help, i have done the 5v mod to the CH341A is it necessary to do the adapter mod? I'm trying to read/flash a 95080 eeprom (its off the board) but so far it wont connect at all. Any help would be much appriciated. Thanks

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

I showed in the video the one chip family which need the hardware adapter, not all of them require this of course. But you do have to be sure you are using the correct _half_ of the ZIF socket as this programmer design uses a different half for 24XXX/25XXX or the 93XXX/95XXX as described. Also be sure that you have pin 1 correctly aligned at both the chip and the ZIF socket of course. With the device off the board, which is the preferred approach, but still no connection I would suspect either USB driver issues or cable hookup issues.

@screwloose2000

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Hi thankyou very much for your reply. I refollowed the instructions in the video and am pretty sure I have it all set up correct. I will check the driver and to be safe I have ordered a second CH341A and a SOP8 SOIC8 adapter to make sure its not that. Again I appreciate your time to offer advice.

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

To be sure its not a defective 95080, I'd try and get a known good working 24XXX type EEPROM. These are the easiest and simplest to work with. Use that to verify that your drivers, cables, and sockets are all good.

@screwloose2000

Жыл бұрын

@@DrShock Hi, it was the cable not getting a good connection. Used the new adapter and it seems to work... Just need to figure out what's what key wise so i can reset to get my new keys to be accepted. Thanks so much for your help.

I purchased a programmer and it was advertised to already support 5v. Would this modification still be necessary? (Purchasing this to reprogram a gm radio)

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

Likely not, this video is about a programmer that originally only supported 3.3V

One question please, Dr Shock.. Do you mean the yellow jumper across 3.3V and 5V wasn't enough?

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

You have to cut the trace, in addition to installing the bodge wire there. As shown I further disabled the 3.3V regulator, as there is no chance I am ever interested in such a voltage for automotive work.

@daviderhahon

3 жыл бұрын

@@DrShock OK. Thanks And I checked, the yellow jumper is for selecting programmer mode or TTL/serial. (not voltage like I thought). My bad.

Could it be possible to still pull the skc off a 95320 eeprom chip without circuit mod if I don’t intend to reprogram it? I just need my security code so I can do key adaptation on my vw? Thanks

@alanlaing673

3 жыл бұрын

Also I have the clip and wire on small board attached to the black connector so the first part I have I’ve just not modded the main board to receive 5v

@DrShock

3 жыл бұрын

Hard to say, won't hurt anything to try. You may be able to read it at 3.3V, I did read many devices that way just fine. But there were a few 93s that wanted the 5V even to read. What's more likely is to run into a problem reading it in-circuit with a test clip. I find nearly all 93xxx and 95xxx boards need the chip removed. Usually a 24xxx board you can get away with, but even some of those you have to desolder it due to interference from other chips that get powered up via the test clip.

@insigniamodified

11 ай бұрын

Hi Doc can you confirm if the 95XX chips need the adaptor mod too? Cheers

Hello! I have tried my best to follow these instructions but everytime i go to read the eeprom in asprogrammer it tells me to check settings. Do you have any advice?

@DrShock

9 ай бұрын

When using for the first time start with a blank EEPROM of the same type out of any circuit, in order to confirm you have USB drivers all setup correctly and ZIF socket alignment/ribbon cable connected etc. This way you always know, it's not the tool. There are very few automotive EEPROMs actually that you can read in-circuit with a testclip setup, most of the time you have to desolder them and read/write out of circuit anyway. But having a blank around, a _control_ if you will, let's you know the tool at least is setup and gtg.

Hello Dr. Shock and thank you for your videos. I have not been able to find too many videos on this subject and definitely not for a newer GM models. This is very confusing for me as I have absolutely ZERO experience with this. But I feel like you are my only hope in accomplishing what I need to accomplish. I have a 2017 Chevy Traverse and my radio died. Well, it is stuck in a constant boot loop and it occasionally works long enough for the backup camera to work and then usually shut off in the middle of backing up. The reason I am telling you this, is because it is obviously getting power, just possibly not enough power. Any, I took it into the Chevy dealer and they said the infotainment center is dead and needs to be replaced to the tune of $2900. That is not going to happen. I have searched around and found unlocked versions of mine for $600, there is a GM replacement for $1,000. Again, not going to happen. I know there are some tricky things within the system but I found a donor vehicle with a DVD and backup camera like I have, but obviously it is locked. I have a few questions for you. Is it at all possible to purchase a ch341a that has already been adapted to use the 5v for automotive uses? Also, is it possible to copy data from original chip to the donor chip? I assume I would just have to save the old info and load it onto the donor chip. Or would it be easier to just clear the donor chip? Also, do you have any thoughts on what might be causing the original board to go bad? Again, thank you for your videos that are very informative and I look forward to your response.

@DrShock

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. Your best course of action, given what you've wrote, is to find the exact same unit (same GM part number on the white sticker from the same year and model vehicle) and just swap the EEPROM chip from the old one to the donor one. I'm not familiar with the 2017 year so I couldn't tell you which chip it is though. That will still need someone experienced in doing surface mount chip soldering. But that should get you back in business without dealing with the VIN lock or needing an EEPROM programmer. To answer the question though, there are several flavors of these CH341a programmers floating around from different Chinese manufacturers. They all look pretty much the same. But some are already 5V defaulted, though the 3.3V default like I got is the more common hence the mod vid I did.