Most excellent video! Thank you for the effort. Just ordered the puller and this installing tool to do the job on my W115. My W107 still works fine, but if I need to fix it in the future now I’ll have the proper tools and knowledge thanks to you. Cheers from Kentucky!

@MikesMercsandothercars

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment. Good luck with the job….always goes better when you have the right tools! Mike

Thank you Mike. Very informative. Love the way you make these videos.

@MikesMercsandothercars

11 ай бұрын

That is very kind of you to say so. They are made in such a way as to remind me how to do things years later. Mike

lovely video mate, finally a good and fun video on how to change a wheel bearing on these cars! keep it up

Amazing content. Thank you. Cant wait for the next video!!

@MikesMercsandothercars

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your kind comments - did you get your Becker working and what did the stealership charge? Mike

Thank you very much for the video. Especially the tool recommendations. I will be doing the same on my W123 in a few weeks.

@MikesMercsandothercars

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment. It looks scary but if I can do it, anyone can. Mike

Hey there! I need to do this on my W123, and given the cost of the press vs shop charges, I’m doing this one my self. When you pushed everything together to get it in the ballpark spec - did you just use a ‘cone’ the same size as the bearing? Also - when you put the thrust washer and castle nut on to tighten it to spec, how did you hold it to keep it from spinning? Thanks for the videos!

Great video. I an definitely buying that press sleeve kit. When you were pulling the inboard bearing in, were you compressing the one time use sleeve until you met the runout spec? I think a previous mechanic just bottomed out the bearing on the sleeve because my bearings were really loose and my sleeve wasn't deformed. I doubt i could have properly repaired my car without your videos. Thank you so much!

@MikesMercsandothercars

3 жыл бұрын

Hi - that press kit proved fantastic for doing all the bearings races and seals. Yes the spacer sleeve gets ever so slightly compressed (less than 1mm) when you wind the inner bearing in. I used the press to get to about 0.07mm play on the dial gauge and then just tweeked the castellated nut to get within spec. At that point the in and out movement of the hub is imperceptible. Every car is different and I wonder if most non specialist SL mechanics would even know the correct run out let alone adjust the bearing to that degree. It is not possible to get the spacer sleeves separately (part no. A115 353 0142) so you are luck if yours has not been compressed although it is difficult to tell. The wheel bearing hub nut is also a one time use nut because you have to bend in bits to lock it in place. This is part number A1153570026 and the cheapest place I have found to get them is Mercedes - about £5 in the. UK. Hope that helps. Good luck, Mike

@rome288

3 жыл бұрын

@@MikesMercsandothercars I almost forgive the prior mechanic. I have done beatings on m.j any different cars and this is the most technical to accomplish. I appreciate your responses! Thank you.

Nice job .. I am ready to do my front bearing on a w126. I have two questions for you. When you install the two races, you do not put any grease at all on the hub beforehand, correct? you only grease the bearing itself , spindle and some grease inside the hub after everything is installed? Also, I have found many kits to put in the new races, however , I can not find any kit that removes them. It seems that the punch set and hammer is the only thing you can do..I am afraid that I will kink the hub when removing them this way. Thanks much...

@MikesMercsandothercars

9 ай бұрын

Hi - yes you are correct. No grease on the spindles. You do not want the races to spin in the event that your bearing ever locks up...otherwise your hub would be damaged. It has been a while since I did this job BUT.....originally, I couldn't figure out how to remove the races, so I gave the job to my 'cheap and cheerful' mechanic and watched in horror as he just bashed them out with a hammer and chisel. I could be wrong BUT I think you can use the race puller kit to actually pull out the old races. Have you got that kit? What part of the world/country do you live? Mike

@charlestimmis273

9 ай бұрын

@@MikesMercsandothercars That is interesting. So you do not pre-grease hub before races. and you do not grease spindle at all? I saw lot of videos where they grease a light coat on spindle. When I took the hub off the spindle, I saw grease on it, now not sure if that grease was from the hub or it was on spindle from manufacturer. I have not seen a puller for tapered bearings. I saw many kits like yours that help you put the races in but not out.. Thanks again , I am in USA

@MikesMercsandothercars

9 ай бұрын

Hi - I used the puller shown at the end of the video for getting out the tapered bearings. I reckon the kit I have will get the races out as well as squeeze them in - if you were local, I would lend you the kit and we would know for sure. The thing about grease, is that it is not compressible. This means you run the risk of the races not sitting square. In the case of bearings, these are 'interference' or 'friction' fittings and any grease will simply get pushed out. Mike @@charlestimmis273

@charlestimmis273

9 ай бұрын

@@MikesMercsandothercars Thanks.. Great set, I was going to buy a set that you punch with a hammer, but I might buy the same set as yours.... As for using the same set to remove a race from a hub, I did not see that in your video, or I missed it. I do not see how that is possible, as you need something that grabs the inside of the race to pull it out, again unless I am not seeing something. It is possible for the front bearing that the outer race could be pulled out by a socket , but not the inner race. Please correct me if I am wrong.. Thanks again... and great work on restoration....

Mike, how tight do you have to tighten the clamping tool to compress the ring to get 0.04 to 0.05 mm? I bought the 36 piece set like you and its a pretty nice kit. I have tightened it very tight but I am still at a loose 0.16 mm. I haven't done a breaker bar or impact gun yet. I wanted your opinion before I go crazy. Thanks.

@MikesMercsandothercars

3 жыл бұрын

Hi - I would err on the side of caution. If you over tighten, you will wear out the bearings very quickly. With a tolerance of .16mm can you actually feel the hub move if you take off the clamp? I definitely did not need an impact wrench or breaker bar. How are you measuring the play - with a digital gauge? I am assuming you used the new crush ring which came with the bearing set. When I compared the new ring with what came out, there are hardly any difference eg much less than 1mm in thickness so the ring doesn't crush by a huge amount on my car. IF you are concerned that you have over tightened, you can always take the hub back out and see if the ring has been crushed at all. If not, you can reinstall with that ring - I had to do this on one occasion. If the ring has been crushed at 0.16mm you'll need a new ring and will have learned not to tighten so much. Hope that helps. Good luck Mike

@rome288

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the reply. I am using the old crush ring because i don't think it was ever crushed. I also didn't realize it was a single use item when i bought the bearings and seals separately. I am using an analog dial indicator with a similar setup as yours. When i tightened the press tool very tight, i got down to .16 of play and, yes, the spindle still feels loose. It seems like my crush rings are uncrushable. I will proceed with caution to higher torque levels. This is the toughest bearing job ever! I enjoy and use all you videos.

@MikesMercsandothercars

3 жыл бұрын

Hi....as a matter of interest, why are you changing this bearing? Is it because there was a problem with it or because you are replacing the dust shields? Also, what make of bearing and and seal are you installing? Last but not least...Each bearing is matched to a specific race and I am assuming that you have changed the races too and that the bearing and races are the ones that came together. It is not always the case, but sometimes the need for excessive force when putting things back together, signifies an issue elsewhere. If I still have an old crush ring, I may see what torque is required to crush it. Good luck, Mike

@rome288

3 жыл бұрын

I replaced the bearings because they were loose. I did buy new timken bearings and races. I finally got them tightened to tolerance with a breaker bar (somewhat gently). Now that its done, I probably could have just tightened the old bearings to tolerance because the old bearings don't look bad. I really like the 36 piece press kit. Used it for the seals too. Now, i am going to go wrestle my rebuilt axles back in... they were in bad shape and i got them rebuilt. Thanks for the reply. I don't know anyone here in the US who works on R107s, especially 280SL's

@MikesMercsandothercars

3 жыл бұрын

@@rome288 Glad to hear you got it sorted and good luck with the rest of the job. That 36 piece kit really does make the whole process easier. My next job is the brakes on the 1976 280SL - unfortunately the parts I ordered got lost in cyber space. Mike

I didn't understand the most important thing at all. You measure clearance, but you don't have a nut there. What did you use to tighten the nut, is it a special wrench? Any number or who I can get it from?

@MikesMercsandothercars

Жыл бұрын

Can you give me the exact time code of what you are referring to? For example at 15.10, I am using a socket at the end over the table and a standard adjustable wrench to tighten the nut at the other end on the threaded rod. NB as mentioned, the nut that come with the threaded rod are on bearings so that the nut can turn without the rod turning. What country are you in? Mike

@MikesMercsandothercars

Жыл бұрын

Or..are you talking about the the tool required to tighten the 'castellated nut' eg the set of sockets shown at 2.00 in the video below: kzread.info/dash/bejne/a65rtbKCnMbWmaQ.html Mike

Damn, when i see this amount of work and material for just a wheel bearing I'll rather just leave it alone. The amount of knowledge and the small tolerances that is needed to get it factory correct is just to much effort and labour intensive for just doing.

@MikesMercsandothercars

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment (s). I guess we are all faced with the question of whether we should do the job ourselves pay someone else. If money is no object, get a professional who does this all day long and has all the tools etc. However....if you are restoring a whole car, the costs REALLY mount up and its probably worth tackling many jobs yourself. Mike

doesnt show to remove from the car, thats what i need to see

@MikesMercsandothercars

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment. There is a detailed series of 4 or 5 videos showing how I removed the rear subframe starting here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Yq2Wj9Ntodicpto.html Mike

in het nederlans ik begrijp het zo niet

@MikesMercsandothercars

2 жыл бұрын

You cannot fool me....I know that the Dutch speak better English than most English. Which part of the video don't you understand? Maybe I can help. Mike