Dear friend; Thank you very much for your advice. I have already disassembled it again and put another new spacer ring and I managed to bring the tightening between 0.04 and 0.05 thousandths, so I think it is a good job. I have done it very calmly. Thank you for everything and for your videos.

Pozdrav iz Srbije.Operacija je dosta komplikovana Vi ste to uradili za čistu desetki.Radim mehaniku godinama istu operaciju sam sam radio par meseci puta sa malo skromnim alatom.Sada upravo to radim na mom mercu. 126.Bgd.

Nice job, If I ever hear bearing noise coming from my ‘87 W124, I’m heading to B’ham. LOL 😀😀

Awesome work!! I have an 87 300SDL and a 74 450SL and I am about to undertake the same task on the SL. Although I should check that carrier bearing first. Keep up the great work and enjoy those old Benz's. Matt

@ImpalamansGarage

9 ай бұрын

Thanks Matt. Hope you found it useful. This old Mercedes is a wonderful daily driver.

Good job! Once again, thanks for taking the time to record all of your work.

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. This is a challenging task.

Great job. I'm glad you used timken.

Thank You again, its running already picked up a free dryer in the back . Your help saved the day , I replaced the old crush washer after your message 11 mm wide with a new one 11.9 and tightened it till it had a little play then went to HF and got a dial indicator and set up the tapered bearings end play .04 mm =1.574 thousandths and the high side was .06mm =2.366 thousandths and left it at 2.3 thousandths . Then I got a big center punch and ground down the into a ball 3/16 to 1/4 and marked the top of the lock ring and put a nice bend in the top of the slotted washer to lock the Flange axle.both sides. My outer bearing race was ok but my axle flange outer bearing spun the bottom of the Flange axle and I fixed it with the jb weld steel puddy and got a HF digital caliper and filed it down so the bearing could be pressed on, had .59 mm of wear at the bottom of the axle flange. Put the axle in the freezer and heated up the tapered bearing in 60 weight oil 200 degrees and pressed it on. Next thing I want to try and fix my trans on another 300td wagon wont shift into 4th , will change the filter and maybe pull the valve body THANK YOU AGAIN, FOR YOUR HELP

Thanks for this. Might undertake this job myself soon since I found my '83 300D has a slight bend in the trailing arm, throwing off the camber/toe slightly! Nice to know it's doable with a bit of preparation

@ImpalamansGarage

3 ай бұрын

Disassembling the rear end is doable at home for sure. It will still be challenging however, so do the research and go slowly.

Mission complete. Good video, what's next?

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Oh I have few ideas rattling around.

thanks for sharing. so i could finish mine!

@ImpalamansGarage

Жыл бұрын

Good luck !

That is some great overcoming to get the result 👍

That was quite a job. I never tried replacing my rear bearings on my 123 when I had. I did the front. Boy did I screw that up! The bearing hubs I've seen changed on other cars were a sealed unit that just slides onto the axle shaft. Then they are torqued to close to 300 ft pounds. You would have had fun doing that. Lol

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

I replaced the rear wheel bearings on my W210 Estate several years ago. I did not film it. The car sat on that lift for like a month until I figured out how to pull the hub. After that it was easy. lol

Thank you in advance for your help, #1 I would like to know with this repair what locks the lock ring, I have seen other mechanics chisel over to top section of the 4 slot nut thin area into the flange axle 2 small cutout areas at he top threaded areas to stop its rotation but its a one time action that destroys the slotted nuts thread. #2 I Also I put in a new crush sleave washer on the axle Flange shaft and when tightening I could feel the tension of trying to compress the new crush sleave washer making it tight and need the force and extensions and I couldn't feel the play in the bearings just the crushed washer sleave . I then put back in the old crush washer that was compressed already and then when tightening the force went directly to the Timkin bearings and no force on the washer no extension tools needed . I think the compressed crush washer sleave is some kind of a mechanical stop preloading the flange axle before the bearings. Any thoughts on this what am I doing wrong and how to lock the lock ring , maybe a thin piece of rubber 1/8 inch above lock ring inserted between the drive shaft locking ring , round no bigger in dia that the lock ring cup kind of a rubber washer and the axle between then compressed to help anchor it. Along with red lock tight on the lock ring threads to the cutouts in the flange axle. Any thoughts on this ?? Thank you again. Its kind of a lousy design and can see why mfg went to the one piece press in bearing on next models.

@ImpalamansGarage

10 ай бұрын

1) Yes, the proper procedure is to bend over the flange of the lock nut in a couple of locations with a hammer and a punch. This ensures it will not back off. I cannot recall if I covered this part in the video or not. No need for lock-tight sealant really. 2) Not sure how you were determining the end play but a dial gauge is absolutely required for this job. The end play is only .04 to .06 mm. ( 4 hundredths of a millimeter to 6 hundredths) One cannot determine this without the proper instruments. Not knowing precisely what you did, I'd recommend getting new bearings and a new crush washer and starting over. You may have tightened everything too tight the first time damaging the bearings. The crush washer's only purpose is to set bearing preload. You gradually tighten the lock nut all the while checking the end play with a dial gauge. This setup is actually just like the crush washer inside a conventional differential pinion housing in most other brands of RWD cars. Here is a link to the Mercedes factory service manual procedure for this job. See page 363. drive.google.com/file/d/18rap9pyaTiI6qWPIpYRLm2B0eySRg2F0/view?usp=drive_link

Nice job, seems I may want to recheck mine with the dial indicator...considering I only tightened mine by hand. I now see that's definetly not tight enough.

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

I was amazed at how much force the threads on the slot nut and flange could take.

👏👏👏👏 Mr. Impalaman, what do you actually do for a living? You made this highly complex repair looking like a piece of cake to the mechanically challenged viewer like myself! Thanks for another great video series! Your buddy Peter from Kansas

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Peter. You can email me if you want. My address is in the about section of the channel page.

Great job how did you remove the axle without opening up the diff and removing the c-clip? Or did you do that off camera?

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

You only disengage the axle from the wheel carrier. No need to remove it entirely.

@woodsandbarclay

2 жыл бұрын

@@ImpalamansGarage ah ok thanks

Nice job.👍 Are you going to do the driver side? It might get jealous in a few months.

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah. I have the parts so I am planning to.

@vintage76vipergreenBeetle

2 жыл бұрын

@@ImpalamansGarage Hopefully it will be a easier job.

Hey man love your channel helped me out bigtime in the past 👍🏽… got a small problem with the bonnet (hood )..slightly raised on both sides any ideas they seem to work fine but there isn’t any adjustment.? 4-5 mm raised each side doesn’t sit flush with the wing.. or fender as you may say 😁

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

There should be a black rubber bump stop adjuster on each front corner. There is an adjustment there. They screw in and out. Maybe they are too high. Or are you saying that the hood is too high in the rear as well ?

@keabot

2 жыл бұрын

The back part of the hood is fine..I wil check the bump stops but I’m guessing it’s maybe worn catches 🤷🏽‍♂️

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

@@keabot If you need it I can send the hood adjustment procedure from the service manual. Email me if you want. See the channel page about section for address.

@keabot

2 жыл бұрын

@@ImpalamansGarage cheers my man 👍🏽

Hello again friend. I have already tightened the nut and, thinking that the dial indicator is as accurate as yours, I have about 0.02 thousandths of travel. I don't reach the regulatory 0.03-0.06 that the book says. What does surprise me is that I see that you had to use a hydraulic lift to tighten and I simply got under the car (I can't raise it) and with an iron lever, with my arms I have passed (I think) a quarter turn tightening. Will it be correct to loosen that quarter turn to get the 0.03 thousandths or should I leave it like that?

@ImpalamansGarage

6 ай бұрын

The specification is .04 to .06 mm. (Imperial measurements would be precisely .001575 to .002362 inches.) If you surpass this specification and tighten the crush washer too tight, you CANNOT loosen it to obtain the correct reading. Unfortunately you must take it apart and install a new crush washer. Extreme care must be taken during the tightening process to not go beyond (tighter) than the specification calls.

I don't understand what you did last. What did you measure with the measuring tool you attached to the piece?

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

When installed correctly the axle flange (the part the brake rotor and wheel is attached to) is allowed a very small amount of free play in and out. The allowed amount of free play is .04 to .06 mm. Put another way, this is the amount of allowed movement in a left or right direction that the axle flange is allowed to have in normal vehicle operation. This amount of free play is achieved by tightening the inner slotted nut to compress the crush sleeve inside the assembly. The dial gauge indicator does not measure in metric but in standard (imperial) inch units. The tolerance in standard inch units is 1.5 to 2.3 thousands of an inch.

Hi, friend. I am here in Spain with the same operation on my w126 560. Everything is correct but I must first buy a dial indicator. I see that most on Amazon are approximations in hundredths (0.01mm) and you talk about thousandths, as indicated in the w126 workshop book. I understand that I should look for one that indicates a precision of 0.001 mm on the needle marker. It is not like this? A greeting from Spain.

@ImpalamansGarage

6 ай бұрын

The end play specification for the rear wheel bearings is .04 mm to .06 mm. My measuring tool is graduated in imperial units (thousandths of an inch). I converted the Mercedes specification from metric to imperial so I must have end play of 1.6 to 2.4 thousandths of an inch. (.0016 to .0024). The tolerance is very tight on these cars.

@rangeroverv81991

6 ай бұрын

@@ImpalamansGarage ohhh! Ahh, I understand. Of course, you have converted the manufacturer's measurements to your measurements in your country, logically. Everything is already understood. I'm about to buy the dial gauge. Thank you very much friend, Merry Christmas.

Still no issues with the ALDA delete?

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Nope. The car runs great and makes good power. In my opinion I would say that most of the high mileage OM617 engines have non-functional ALDA devices. Adjusting them makes little to no difference. They just don't work properly any longer. If they did, you would not have to floor your car to make it move. This will make an excellent up coming VLOG rant video. All just my opinion of course.

@johnbower5732

2 жыл бұрын

@@ImpalamansGarage I'm thinking about doing my 84 that way, I have the same car as you (same color and same color leather). Mine has 86,003 miles. I want a better throttle feel, something that feels more consistent.

@ImpalamansGarage

2 жыл бұрын

@@johnbower5732 Well there is nothing wrong with removing it and then driving it for a while to see what this effect is. You can always reinstall it.