With out changing your design, A quick fix to allow more light through the diffuser is paint the inside side of back panel either white or silver to bounce the light around a bit more or use more of those dinner plates and place them on the back panel.

@ResinChemTech

11 ай бұрын

All great suggestions. Thanks!

Well done what a fantastic vid, the magnet idea is brilliant on so many level’s , I really enjoyed the production of how to do but also your attention to detail and tips along the way are excellent. Thanks for sharing, I have a project that I am researching and your channel keeps popping up on google and after watching many of your vids I see why. Subscribed and enjoying what you do. Thanks for your efforts, love your work and the view from your back door how good is the lake, if you are in Australia drop in for a beer, I’m building an led bar sign and using a lot of your advice and intel and couldn’t think of any thing better than sharing a frosty cold drink with someone who took the time to show me how to take a whole bunch of wires a pcb and led’s and make a sign to remember

@ResinChemTech

Ай бұрын

Thanks for the kind words! Glad my videos have been helpful. They are longer than the typical KZread video, but I like to explain the 'why' as well as the 'how' so that someone can take my idea, understand why I'm doing something so they can adapt the idea for their own project instead of just cloning what I'm doing. Indiana is a long way from Australia, but it is someplace my wife and I have always wanted to visit.. so who knows, maybe someday I'll take you up on the offer for that beer! Thanks for watching and taking time to leave such a nice comment.

Just recently found your channel and I am enjoying the variety of projects you have. I recently made a WLED project and used white filament as a diffuser and it works really well. I actually prefer it over the acrylic panels I have in another project. I printed 0.6 mm thick with a 2mm x 2mm raised lip around the outside edgeto give it some rigidity. They friction fit inside the body of the light panel. I have a textured bed and it leaves a nice surface on the front of the diffuser.

@ResinChemTech

Жыл бұрын

I used white filament for my diffusers on my 3D printed clock: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Ynmat9FmgpfbdJM.html and they work great! I had previously used the Styrofoam plates on my Nano Leaf build ( kzread.info/dash/bejne/noKX1bZudL3QcbA.html ), and for that they are near perfect. But for these LED letters, and with the number and position of the LEDs, they do leave a bit of a darker section in the middle. If I were to recreate them, I might consider a different material for a diffuser. Thanks for watching... and taking time to leave a comment!

For the magnets you could put the indent for them on the inside of the box and have them hidden and could use bigger and thicker magnets without having to make walls thicker.

Brilliant!!

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Chris! You do some pretty brilliant work yourself. My hexagon/Nano Leaf build was inspired directly by yours... and I credit you and your channel in that video... although I admit all mistakes are mine! Thanks for watching and taking time to drop a comment!

@ChrisMaherDIY

2 жыл бұрын

@@ResinChemTech You are far more skilled and knowledgeable than I am! I want to at some point do the led stairs like you did. Thank you for all your great ideas and projects!

Might be a good idea to add a reflective surface to the back lid. Maybe use aluminium tape for that.

Very cool. If you need to squeeze out a bit more brightness, ya might try some aluminun foil tape inside the back panel to reflect more light.

Amazing!!!!

Impressive project

Great work! This is your coolest project yet!

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you! It was an idea that had been rattling around in my head for a few months.. and I honestly didn't know if it would work. In fact, I struggled so much at the start to come up with a design that would work consistently that I almost gave up on the idea. Those little magnetic pogo pin connectors were the key (and a lot of wasted PLA filament on test designs!). Thanks for watching and taking time to post a comment!

Great great, the magnet idea is a very unique. This is favorite project ive seen here. Thanks for sharing

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I appreciate it. I had been considering something like it for a while, but had some searching to find the pogo pin magnets to make it work. Even then, it took about 2 1/2 week from them to arrive from China via Amazon.

Thanks again, another great build. I’m gonna have to give this one a go because I’ve been wanting to do something like this. Especially for the grandkids so I can put their names into lights.

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I've had an "LED sign" on my list for quite sometime, but as I mentioned, I didn't want to lock myself into a fixed message.. which was how I would have approached it, by wiring the letters to each other. Once I finally found those magnetic pogo pins (after considerable searching because I didn't know what they were even called), the light went on as a potential way to build something that could easily be changed or updated at will. Let me know if you build your own set... and if you find any improvements along the way.

That is excellent!

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! It took me quite a while (and trial and error) to come up with a design that worked consistently. But I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I appreciate you watching and taking time to comment!

What a great project..

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

This looks great I need to do this not sure where but I need to do this

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! The nice thing is that they are portable and easily moved. And the back plates could easily be modified if you wanted to hang on a wall or something. Or print a base for them to stand upright. I tried to design something that could be mounted in multiple ways. If you do end up making them, drop me a note and let me know where/how you decided to put them.

Great project. I Wonder where you got the idea to use magnetic connectors? If I do recall I mentioned them in the comments after you released your hexagonal panels video a few months ago. I explained how I had I used them exactly like this in my design so I could rearrange the layout. You did an excellent job with them! Great tutorial, I really enjoyed the build.

Another fantastic project, I do have a question for you though! I'm about to run a series of two LED strips to my TV setup, one to go around the back of the mounted TV, and the other to go underneath a floating mantle underneath it. I want to split these in to separate channels for ease of cable run, but I also want to include the additional button and IR sensor so we can control it either from the couch, or physically. I'm using your project here as a template. Now, the question is, on the D1 Mini, can I use the D1 pin on the board as an additional LED strip? (Once it goes through the logic shifter, etc.) Or would you recommend moving the button/IR receiver pins to a different one? Thank you again, your work is clear and precise and I am really enjoying watching your videos!

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Sorry for the delay, but I'm out of town for a few days. If I understand your question correctly, you want to run two separate strips... controlled independently (e.g. each running their own colors/effects) off of a single D1 Mini.. including push button and IR control? If that is correct... yes, you can now have more than one data pin from the D1 Mini... and you can define which pins you assign to both the data signals and the push button(s) and IR remote. There are some limitations (not all pins are created equal). In addition, running more than one signal from an ESP8266 is stretching the capabilities. You may wish to consider moving up to an ESP32 Mini for the project. Alternatively... depending upon your setup and needs, you can use a single data pin and define segments to control the TV and shelf lighting independently. This would have the advantage of also being able to control them together as a single unit. But more information on recommended pins for dual data signals and for the push button/IR remote can be found on the WLED website: kno.wled.ge/features/multi-strip/ I'd be happy to answer any additional questions, but my responses may be a bit delayed for the next few days.

Did something similar with lithophanes

This is so awesome I have been wanting to do something like this. Thank you so much for sharing. Question what font did you use? I am recreating the boxes to use fewer supports. I can share the file as well. Cheers

@ResinChemTech

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Well... as far as fonts, these were done in Tinkercad and they only offer about 4 fonts for lettering. Most of these were done, I believe, with what they call Sans or Sans Mono. I'm sure you've already seen it, but if not, all my .stl files are in a Github repo: github.com/Resinchem/LED-Letters I'm not that great at designing 3D files yet.. and pretty much just make things with what's available in Tinkercad. I'm sure these letters/boxes could be made much nicer. Good luck with your project! Let me know if you run into any questions.

@tha_factory_of_fun

Жыл бұрын

@@ResinChemTech you kidding!? You did a fantastic job! I am just attempting to minimize supports in the box to speed up print time. I also might try to use larger magnets as I have a ton sitting here. I know you mentioned that in your video. Thank you so much!

That is very cool. Out of curiosity, what is your favorite NFL team?

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Well, I'm in Indianapolis so it would be the Colts. Had season tickets from the year they moved here... but in my infinite luck, dropped my season tickets the year before Peyton Manning arrived! I appreciate you taking time to watch and comment!

Fun project, but where did you end up setting up the final display and what words are you spelling? I wish I'd seen this video when it came out, but I after years of searching I stumbled upon the magic word pogo and found these connectors myself. I use a ton of WS8212b lights in my model railroad buildings and got tired of plugging in the standard 3 prong plus one more for the output wire. I use 4 prong magnetic pogo connectors so there's only one place for the data to go in and come out. I had to write my own C++ code so I can control each building, each floor and each room. I send the MQTT messages from NodeRED.

@ResinChemTech

11 ай бұрын

Honestly, I keep them stored and will pull them out for certain occasions or when we have guests over for a particular event. They are portable enough that I can set them up in different locations, and over time I've added letters (seems like I'm always an "S" or "E" for something new I want to spell.. so I'll have to print an extra letter at times for a given occasion). I too have written my own Arduino code for certain LED projects. WLED is great for colors and patterns, but for something like my matrix clock/scoreboard/timer project ( kzread.info/dash/bejne/p4qTqrOpoazWYqw.html ), it needed Arduino code to handle the logic needed. I also use MQTT but with Home Assistant for control of the features. I really haven't done any model railroading, but I can see how strategic use of LEDs could add a lot to a setup. Thanks for watching and taking time to post a comment!

Hi, love this one! What 3D printer and or what would recommend for under $500? Thanks!

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! As far as 3D printers, I have a Creality Ender 3 Pro. They currently go for around $250, give or take. I've had mine for a little over 2 years now and love it. But they have come out with a number of newer models since I purchased mine. I am by no means and expert on the printers themselves, nor creating designs. For the most part, I use it to create custom enclosures for my projects. I think it is a good entry-level, beginner printer. But it is one of the most handy things that I have... and it gets used pretty much on a weekly basis.

Great video thanks for sharing, is any video you can recommend on setting up the button and the remote control on the ESPs with WLED, Thanks

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

As far as the wiring for the button and IR remote wiring, I cover that in my Hexagon LED light video (kzread.info/dash/bejne/noKX1bZudL3QcbA.html - jump to the chapter on final controller wiring), but have wiring diagrams and a little more info in the related blog article at: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2022/01/hexagonal-led-wall-display.html As far as the settings and setup in WLED, those are pretty well covered at the official WLED web site: kno.wled.ge/ Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

@gusgyovi6338

2 жыл бұрын

@@ResinChemTech Thanks, so only have to connect the VCC, GND, and Data to a deferent data pin then the led strip data pin and the remote will work? as I tried doing this but didn't work

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Yes... the IR receiver would need to be connected to either 3.3V or 5V (I use 3.3V) ground and an unused GPIO pin (GPIO4 is the default). Also note that if using an ESP8266, your LED data pin must be GPIO 1, 2 or 3 for IR receiving to to work. Obviously, you also need to enable/configure this in WLED. And if you are not using one of the standard remotes listed on the WLED site, you must manually modify the remote codes and use the JSON remote option. See this for more info: kno.wled.ge/interfaces/infrared/

@gusgyovi6338

2 жыл бұрын

@@ResinChemTech Thanks it worked on ESP8266 but had to do a lot of research to figure out the connections on the receiver I have as it's deferent to the one you're using, But worked on the esp8266, but not the esp32, so at least on one board it worked which's fine

If anyone really wants to do this but doesn't have a 3d printer I have 4 of them I could help out with some letters and stuff like that.

Nice ! i have luckily a 3D Printer..,😊 I think i go for some larger magnets..😊

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah... I probably would too, although you might need thicker walls as my design have on 2mm thick walls. Good luck... let me know how it goes if you design your own.

@gewema-makkum

2 жыл бұрын

@@ResinChemTech still on my Dominican Republic Holidays in Sosúa....be back in the Netherlands end March..🇩🇴😀👍

I wonder if those pogo connectors could handle 2a or 3a? Can't see any power ratings. Great use of those connectors, think I'll order some

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

I wondered the exact same thing and I couldn't find any ratings either. But I did connect a string of ten letters (plus a spacer... so 11 connections) without seeing any significant performance issues or heat generation... not that is a 'statement of suitability'! They did work for me, though. One note on ordering: even via Amazon, it took a little over 2 weeks for them to arrive as they shipped directly from China. I checked other sites, like AliExpress, but the lead time really wasn't any better. But otherwise, the order was fine and I didn't have any issues. Let me know if you do end up using them for something, and how it works out.

@martinbower2915

2 жыл бұрын

@@ResinChemTech thanks , I'm in the UK so might order from China.

Great project! I feel a new shelf coming. Couldn't you connect the long power lines to the output connector from the start of the strip (alongside the power in) and only run the data line from the other end. This should effectively provide power injection at every letter, removing the the need for external wires.

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I think I understand what you are saying... instead of connecting the +5V and ground from the end of the LED strip to the out pin, run extra lines directly from the in pin to the out pin (like with the blank, minus the data line)? That's an interesting idea. I think one challenge (at least for me) would be soldering the two wires to the input pin (one for the LED strip and one for the power out pin). Those pins are really, really small and close together and VERY easy to create a bridge. I suppose you could make a pigtail for each? But it is an interesting thought. To be honest, I didn't test how many letters you could truly use before voltage drop starts to make an impact. I generally use rule-of-thumb of about 250-300 pixels, which is why I stated around 10 letters (240 pixels). And at 10 letters, the sign would be about 42" wide (with the current design). Using the method described above, you could likely extend that, but at some point, I'd expect that you'd eventually need some sort of additional external injection, as I suspect that each pogo pin/solder connection would also cause some additional drop. But by that point, you might be up to something like a 8-10 ft sign! Thanks for the comment... and the good suggestion!

very well done! What about to put a bit of aluminium foil in the inside of the back panel?

@ResinChemTech

2 жыл бұрын

That's actually a good idea. Something more reflective inside the letter would definitely help with light diffusion. Thanks for watching and the excellent suggestion!