Focusing on home automation, Home Assistant and smart home devices. Plus anything else that catches my interest!
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I wish I found your videos sooner. Pitched at the perfect level for me. Thank you. Keep it up
oh my, what a beautiful shelf you got there behind you.
Hello. If i want to use pultiple transmeter(10 TX for exampl) and one receiver . How can i do that?
I'm not sure if this particular port expander would work for UART/Serial communications due to precise timing required. I certainly didn't test the MCP23017 for serial TX. You might need to search for a multiplexer specifically made for UART communications. This is an example: amzn.to/4cRJJ9A but I have not tried or tested this particular module, so just consider it an example of something you might need to search for. There are very likely other options, so you could just try a search for "UART Multiplexer". Good luck with your project!
Excellent explanations. 👍🏻
Thanks! And thanks for taking a moment to leave a comment.
Nice video, real nice, I'm gonna need to learn more about volt injection, how to do that? You probably have a video on that as well.
Yes, I have a number of videos that talk about power injection, but I have a video on common LED questions that contains a dedicated section on power injection... why it is needed, how to determine when it is necessary and then how to wire everything up properly. It is probably the best video I have for learning the why and how of power injection: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eY6ql7ytmpnPZqw.html The video does have chapter links in the timeline and in the video description, so you can jump straight to the section on power injection, but if you are somewhat newer to LEDs and LED controllers, other parts of the video may be of interest as well.
@@ResinChemTech yes I'll watch the whole video. This is so much fun. Thanks a bunch 😇
9:55 One side note to the light and switch not being able to be grouped. You can create a helper to 'Change Device Type of a Switch'. The entity created can then be grouped. I've done this to group dumb LED lights which are connected to Kasa plugs and switches.
Great tip! While it is no longer recommended (and why I didn't show it as an option), you can also create old style groups via YAML that allow you to combine different entity types like lights, switches, covers, etc. into a single group entity and control those different entity types as a group, albeit with some limitations on functionality (I still have a few of these original, old-style groups). As mentioned, Home Assistant provides a lot of flexibility and different ways to accomplish a given task. The ability to redefine a switch as another entity type is a great start. Unfortunately it currently only works for switches and you can't do the reverse... such as redefining something like a light, cover or lock as a switch. Well.. technically you can via YAML and templated entities, but not easily via just the UI editors and dropdowns. Still a great tip for those that want to group switches with other entity types. Thanks!
Many years later and now I’m here I think it’s time I begin modding controllers and consoles now. Thanks for the video I didn’t even know the batteries could get bigger and better in these!
You are welcome! Replacing the batteries made a huge difference in my controllers. Made them like new (or better) in terms of time between recharges, at substantially less cost than buying new controllers. Thanks for taking a few minutes to leave a comment. It is appreciated!
You never mentioned polarity on the battery holder or circuit board. I did find this video helpful!
i needed a bit of help as just about to try audio reactive for the first time, i have already seen this and knew that this video was just what i needed, thanks very muchly.
You are welcome! Glad you found it helpful.
very well done, thank you. the video encourages to view more of your clips. 🙏
You are welcome. Thanks for the comment!
That is so cool. this will work for my project way better than i was originally thinking with setting up dmx
Glad I was able to help! While the official documentation might leave a little to be desired (and often isn't up-to-date with the latest releases), it is pretty amazing all the things you can do with WLED now. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
I was able to get it all up and running thanks to your input 🎉
Fantastic! Glad I was able to help. Thanks so much for the support. It truly does mean a lot to me!
Thanks for this. Where I got confused with scenes is, I wanted to capture the state of <whatever entities>, in the process of running an automation. Whatever states, say, the lights were before turning on the TV, restore them to that state when the TVs turned off. I guess I'd use scene.create with the automation to capture the light states, change them in the automation to what I want, then use scene.turn_on to restore the prior lighting?
I think you can do what you want by using scene.create in the automation and using snapshot_entities to capture the current state of whatever entities you want (like the lights). You can then restore the state(s) with another automation. Do note that scenes created this way only persist until the next time the configuration is loaded. Check out the documentation here: www.home-assistant.io/integrations/scene Under the section "Deleting dynamically created scenes", there is actually an example doing exactly what you are looking for, except it is using the opening and closing of a window to save/restore states instead of a TV turning off/on. Hope that points you in the right direction.
Thank you for this! I knew about some of the syncing stuff but the virtual LEDs and how multiple pins worked was all new. This gives me more ideas on how to update the float lights in our tiki patio.
You are very welcome! Like many of my videos, I usually learn a thing or two myself as part of doing the research for the video. Prior to making this video, I didn't know anything about virtual LEDs and had not used them. But it is a pretty slick alternative way to have one controller control multiple LED installs. I have a few use cases myself. Thanks for watching... and taking a few minutes to leave a comment!
Thank you - this worked for migrating my HAOS 12.4 on an older Dell Wyse PC to my newer PC running Proxmox 8. The only extra thing I had to do, to get my Sonoff Zigbee dongle to work was allow the VM to see the USB port.
Glad it worked out for you! My Zigbee hub is standalone, so I didn't have to do anything with a USB dongle. But like you, many have reported that you just need to pass the USB port thru to the VM for it to work. Thanks for the comment and letting me know that it worked out for you!
I am just like the guy you mentioned. I'm just getting into scripts. I wasn't aware of the versatility of the different methods. Thank you for doing this video.
You are welcome! I do think that scripts are something that are probably underutilized, especially by those just starting out. But they can definitely make it easier to maintain and reuse sets of actions as your Home Assistant install grows over time. Thanks for watching... and taking a moment to leave a comment!
Great explanation as always. Thanks. Only 13 WLED projects in the basement. Get to work!! 😀
Yeah... it's a little over the top! Thanks for the comment.
Can you save segments and control them individually without effect other segments? Thanks
Yes, segments can be controlled individually without impacting other segments. You just need to be sure you are selecting the segment(s) that you are wanting to control independently in the WLED interface.
@@ResinChemTech Half of my strip is in the kitchen and the other half is in the living room.......running home assistant. I have motion sensors in each room and anytime the living room side turns on it turns off the kitchen side vice versa. Im assuming my issue is the way I have it set up, also read that preset 16 is the only one that saves the segments . Guessing I need to have 2 presets saved both have both segments but only one checked when saving each preset?
I _think_ that the WLED documentation is a little out of date. You can save segment information with any preset now (not sure what version that started with). When creating a preset, you have two options: Save Segment Bounds and Checked Segments Only. If I understand what you are asking, I think it is the second option that you may wish to apply to your preset. Just be sure that you have only the proper segment(s) selected that you want for the preset. You might have to play around with different combinations of these two options to get it exactly how you want it. I've found that WLED presets and playlists have enough flexibility now built in (you can even resort to creating/modifying the actual API commands) to get exactly what you want. Unfortunately, the "official" documentation often doesn't keep up with all the new changes added in each release, so you often need to search other sites or visit the WLED Discord server to obtain the latest up-to-date info.
@@ResinChemTech Thanks for the reply, and your time….I’ll mess around with it and get it figured out.
Thanks for the breakdown! I am going to create a group for some of my WLED controllers and simplify a couple of the automations where everything is all discreet entities.
You are welcome! As I mentioned, you can group WLED controllers in Home Assistant, but it does work a bit differently than using the native WLED sync. But having options is always a great thing! Thanks, as always, for the comment!
Great Video!! I have a question: Is it possible so connect a single Laser Diode to a WS2812b Chip and control it with WLED ? I could not find anything like this but before I try it myself maybe you know more about it. Thanks
Sorry... I really haven't used laser diodes, so I can't say what might be possible with something like this. But let me know if you get it working.
How about a comparison between groups and rooms? You can turn on/off everything in a room together. And you are not restricted to one type like a group.
Off topic, but is that a Texas instruments 994a in display case at beginning. I taught myself basic language using it. I wrote many programs and remember using the cassettes to load and save. I also spent so much time fixing it. I used it so much that things wore out like keys, joysticks, cables and things. My father worked for TI and would bring parts home and I would fix it myself. This is how I got interested in computers and electronics. Thanks for the trip down memory lane and reminding me of time well spent with my father who is now gone.
Yep... a TI99/4A! Just like you, I taught myself BASIC on that machine and spent way too many hours writing my own games and applications (and yes... storing and loading from cassette!). I wish I would have kept the original, but I didn't. Luckily a college buddy remembered how fond I was of it and found one at a retro electronics fair and picked it up for me. It looks brand new and since I already have a TI99 emulator running on my arcade machine, I opted to turn that one into a display. I do have another video that shows a bit more about turning it into the display (as compared to the 'retail' tech-as-art display. To be honest, it is not a very good video, but if you do want to see a little bit more of the TI99 and how I did the display, you can check out that video if you want: kzread.info/dash/bejne/daGij9Stfq7Pm7w.html But I did love my TI99/4A back in the day. Thanks for the comment!
This helped me understand the components much easier! Thanks for this one!
You are very welcome. I think that scripts are probably underutilized and maybe a bit misunderstood by those first starting out with Home Assistant. But they can be invaluable for created reusable groups of actions that are easier to maintain as your Home Assistant grows. Thanks for watching and the kind comment! I do appreciate it!
@@ResinChemTech Indeed. I’ve done a lot of scripting in other areas - so they made the most sense to me - but the duplicity of then using automations was confusing to me. Same with Groups vs scenes. Im going to try this in just a bit - but can you create groups using templates? Can you create a “outdoor” light group let’s say and include all lights in the “Outdoor” Area? That could make for some very nice behavior to add new features automatically by changing name and area assignment for example.
Hmm... that's an interesting idea and not something that I've tried. It would probably require YAML. There was an older way of creating groups in YAML that would actually create a group entity (although this method isn't recommended anymore - and it could be removed in later releases, I still have a handful of groups created this way). So I'm not sure, but if you can template the entities list, then it should theoretically be possible. Let me know what you find out!
@@ResinChemTech Will do - its now on my "List of things I want to try" ha!
@@ResinChemTech And the more I think about it - the more I think it has to be possible. I created a helper-sensor using templating for my garage door state...
Great video, definitely referring to this later!
Thanks! I appreciate it!
Great video thank you! I've just started using scripts but haven't done groups or scenes yet. This will help me keep my HA organised!
Scripts can definitely help you create reusable blocks of actions and make it much easier to maintain those as you add new automations and routines in the future. I do use a few groups, but actually I don't use too many scenes. Instead I often use automations and/or scripts so that my "scenes" can be customized based on other factors, such as time of day, etc. But scenes are a great way to get started with setting up something like a movie night, party night, etc. Thanks for watching and taking a moment to leave a comment. It is appreciated!
Another great Resinchem Tech production! Excellent tutorial and breakdown of the different ways to make things easier in Home Assistant. I thought it was a great point to mention that everything is located in one place as opposed to finding all the automations that may contain that entity. Great job as always! Keep up the Excellent work!
Thanks! I think that scripts are one of the more underutilized and least understood tools for newer Home Assistant users. I hope this video provides a least a bit of introduction and shows some situations where they can be used to make automations and routines more manageable and maintainable. As always, thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
Thank you for the video! I've been a bit hesitant with WLED because I have 0 experience soldering/electric/coding or whatever. I found your channel and I just ordered some stuff to try my first WLED strip to upgrade my desk/pc setup. I appreciate the way you explain things! Definitely going to watch more of your videos about WLED!
You are very welcome! I'm glad my video could inspire you to try to build a WLED controller. Once you get started and get over a little bit of that initial nervousness, you'll see how easy it really can be. Not that you won't run into some frustrations or a make a few mistakes now and then, but the end result of making your own device is well worth it (at least in my opinion). Good luck with your WLED project. Let me know how it goes!
Hands down, the best video I stumbled across when looking for WLED features and use cases. I've been playing with WLED for a bit more than a year and some of the topics covered were still a mystery to me lol.
Glad you found it helpful. I usually always learn a thing or two myself just in the process of making a video. That was especially true in my follow up video to this one where I talk about WLED segments and syncing options ( kzread.info/dash/bejne/eo2Y0deLeMnHlKg.html ). In that one, I wasn't even aware that 'virtual' LEDs could be defined to control LEDs connected to a different controller. And more features get added to WLED with each new release. Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment!
@@ResinChemTech Thanks for taking the time to reply to a viewer ! :) I had also watched your other video and that's where I discovered about the Virtual LEDs too. I''ve put together a setup for launching parties with a few 1m Strips which are hanging in trees and synced together. Presets are changing via a playlist our sound reactive mode. For the record, with the sync feature. I observe that it's not always perfectly in sync (depending on the disance between ESP32s and router ) and sometimes, the preset change simply does not happen on a node. I need to investigate if that's not an antenna issue. but you video talking about virtual LEDs gave me an idea. . Maybe it'll be more in sync this way (since it needs to send data like it would do to a segment and not just send a preset change info.) It also allow to have patterns that expand on the various strips, instead of just replicating each other. all exciting ideas. Next step is to run a LedFX on an RPI :) And thanks again for your videos! Cheers from France
Instead of using the relay to switch the output of a power supply for the LEDs, use it to switch the input. This assumes your microcontroller has a separate power supply. Large power supplies draw a fair amount of power with no load on them and you'd like to switch that off. You can also switch a lot more power with the relay, since switching 120/240 volts draws 1/20 the amperage of switching 5v. - Nick
🎯 Key points for quick navigation: 00:00 *📏 Comparación de tamaño físico y disposición de pines entre ESP8266 y ESP32* - Comparación de tamaño físico entre Wemos D1 Mini (ESP8266) y versión equivalente ESP32. - Diferencias en la disposición de pines: ESP8266 tiene una sola fila, mientras que ESP32 tiene dos filas. - Consideraciones sobre el impacto del tamaño en proyectos de electrónica. 03:26 *⚙️ Configuración y construcción de controladores LED con ESP8266 y ESP32* - Proceso de construcción de controladores LED con ambos chips. - Uso de recomendaciones para la configuración de pines y lógica de nivel. - Preparación de pruebas para comparar rendimiento y características. 06:01 *🌈 Pruebas de rendimiento con WLED estándar en ESP8266 y ESP32* - Configuración y prueba de controladores con tiras LED WS2812B. - Comparación de efectos visuales y respuesta a configuraciones de color y brillo. - Evaluación del rendimiento con múltiples canales de salida y configuración de segmentos. 11:42 *🎵 Comparación de rendimiento con WLED reactivo al sonido en ESP8266 y ESP32* - Configuración y diferencias funcionales en versiones reactivo al sonido de WLED. - Análisis de respuesta a la música y sincronización de efectos. - Ventajas adicionales del ESP32 en términos de ajustes de frecuencia y soporte de matrices. 18:03 *💡 Pruebas de rendimiento con 600 píxeles en configuración de matriz en ESP8266 y ESP32* - Evaluación del rendimiento con una configuración avanzada de 600 píxeles y matriz en ESP8266. - Comparación de la capacidad de procesamiento y respuesta a efectos visuales. - Recomendaciones basadas en resultados para diferentes tipos de proyectos LED. Made with HARPA AI
Excellent presentation: I’m setting up my 1st ever strip led system in the basement playroom and just realized it will be easier to run two WLED controllers + large power supply/each than run thick 5 volt wires. I ordered a 2nd 4 channel Quinled DigiQuad yesterday and this video will help me configure them. My end game is to have a remote control so all my wife & kids need to do is press a button for the effects they like. If I could do it over I would have used 12volt strip leds, power injection would not have been needed had I chose 12volts versus 5volts.
Congrats on your first LED project... but it probably won't be your last as it can get a bit addictive after that first one! 12V does have the advantage of needing power injection less often... and 24V is even less than 12V. It depends on what your particular project is.. and what you are looking for. 5V are individually addressable, while 12V are generally only addressable in groups of three LEDs and 24V in groups of six. This is generally not too noticeable on linear runs but can impact things like matrix displays. Since you are using a DigQuad, it won't be an issue, but if building your own WLED controller with an ESP board, you also have to either deal with separate power supplies (and create a common ground) or use a buck converter to step the 12V down to 5V for the ESP. But all strip voltages have pros and cons based on your project needs. Best of luck with your project. Thanks for taking a few moments to leave a comment... and let me know if I can answer any particular questions you may have!
Super appreciate the in-depth explanation of your video(s). I was curious to know the gauge of wire you used to wire in the 2 different 100k pots? Will the gauge thickness alter the potential of the potentiometer?
I believed that I used 18 gauge, but I don't recall absolutely for sure. These are very short runs, and if any voltage drop is truly present, it really doesn't matter since the actual voltage being output to the terminals is shown on the meter, which is measuring voltage after the potentiometer and any other wiring. The only place that this might matter would be at the very top end (e.g. 12V). Say there really was a 0.1V drop due to wire resistance. The max output of the meter (and the true voltage) would only be 11.9V. I don't think this is really the case... and even it if was, I'd just use the fixed 12V side anyway. The net result is that the potentiometer is used to adjust the desired voltage, which is measured AFTER any resistance that would be introduced by any wiring. I hope I explained so that it makes some sense! The key thing is to just select a potentiometer with a resistance that isn't too sensitive and yet allows you to cover the range from around 1V up to 12V. If wire gauge impacts that, then a different potentiometer can be used.
I have a WIFI accessible IR transmitter, could I send individual remote button presses to select a TV channel?
I'm not sure what sort of features they may have added since I installed my version, so it might be possible. Since one of the features I do know is there is the ability to send a URL, you might be able to use something like an ESP32 with a small web server that could receive requests and then in turn, send the appropriate code via the IR transmitter. That is probably a kludgy way to do it... and there may be other ways, but I don't think that the original StreamPi client or server would support connecting an IR transmitter directly and then sending out the various codes based on a button press. At least not without modifying the Python code.
Fantastic video! Subscribing because the way you teach is so straightforward and digestible. Thank you
Thanks so much! And thanks for subscribing. Welcome to the channel!
Thanks for this Video. If i use OpenMQTT Gateway, how i could provide this?
Within OpenMQTTGateway, Home Assistant discovery is already enabled by default. How this works and its use is described on the OpenMQTTGateway site: docs.openmqttgateway.com/integrate/home_assistant.html#auto-discovery
Excellent presentation. Most of my stuff is from the Arduino IDE and 5 volts and no place for an ESP-32. However, WLED exploits fine goods with simplicity, something I'm willing to set aside time for. I like buttons, switches and blinky lights.
Awesome
This is a really good video. The overhead with transmitting a topic say in LoRaWAN seems expensive on the bandwidth. Do you know if you can transmit a raw data field only, that may have proprietary information (no topic stuff), on the RF side and then have a custom HA integration (???) that formats this into JSON which then can be written to the MQTT Broker? If so what would that integration be? Thanks
Well, as I mentioned, MQTT was initially developed specifically for low power (often battery powered), low bandwidth applications. Do note that if you are developing your own devices/applications, the topics used are somewhat arbitrary... you can certainly create and use much shorter topics than I show as examples. Heck, you could use a topics like /a and /b if desired.. just as long as the publisher and subscriber are using the same topics. But to address your specific question, I haven't used LoRaWAN, so I can't say for sure. However, I did find this good forum thread about integrating LoRaWAN sensors into Home Assistant, including some discussion about how MQTT could be used with the process as well: community.home-assistant.io/t/integrating-lorawan-sensors-into-home-assistant/628322 Sorry I can't provide more info, but I really don't have any experience with LoRaWAN.
Thank you. Now I have a much better idea what all those settings in WLED are for.
You're welcome. The issue is that WLED is advancing so quickly, in a few months there will probably be additional settings... or the settings that are there will be moved someplace else or called something different! But I guess that's one of the challenges of making videos about technology. A video made today could be obsolete in six months (or even quicker)! Thanks for watching and taking a few moments to post a comment. It is appreciated!
Wow, I probably could come up with that myself after digging through documentation, but you presented all of it in such a coherent way, thank you! I'll definitely come back here when upgrading my wled controllers!
Yeah.. nothing I did here is a big secret or anything. But sometimes locating the correct and current documentation can be a challenge, and for a lot of folks just starting out interpreting often tech-jargon heavy (or poorly written) documentation can create additional hurdles. So I try to approach all of my videos from a true beginner's perspective where someone may not have a lot experience or practice at decoding some of the technical guides. Thanks for watching... and taking a moment to leave a comment. I appreciate it!
@@ResinChemTech I'd kill for a video like that when I was starting out with Arduinos and FastLED back in the days. All I had was some forum posts :D
Another great video and tutorial. Followed this step by step and I am now running my HA on proxmox. Great suggestions you just don't see in other videos. The part about copying the Mac address was such a great idea and worked perfectly. Thanks!
Thanks! It really is a pretty easy process, although it may not seem like it at first! Congrats on the successful move. I think you'll be happy with the end results and reliability... especially if you migrated from something like the Raspberry Pi.
Thank you so much for this video! I had two slot machines that have been down for about a year and I thought were gone and would have to be replaced. I found your video, installed two new battery holders and batteries, did the reset and now they are working again! I'm so happy!!
Glad it helped you out. I knew very little about the inner working of these machines before mine went down. But I learned that they are pretty serviceable and replacing the battery was much easier than I expected. Congrats on getting your machines back up and running!
Thank you so much for your very clear explanation. However, I think I am doing something wrong. I have a WS2811 12V connected as you suggested, but as soon as I turn it on, it starts flashing and will not work with Effects or color changes. I have two strips, and they both do the same, so I think it has something to do with the configuration, but I don't know what it could be. Thank you so much for your help!!!!
Flickering, flashing or non-responsive LEDs generally points to an issue with the data line (it can also happen with larger installs further down the strip if the voltage drops too low). Check the following: Did you include a logic level shifter? This will resolve most signal issue if wired properly. Assure you have 3.3V, GND and the data signal from the ESP connected to the LV side of the shifter and 5V, GND and the data line out to the LEDs on the HV side. Assure the LEDs are receiving the expected 12V. If possible use a multimeter to verify the voltage is close to 12V at the +12V and GND connections at the start of the LEDs. Naturally, the controller should only be receiving 5V. If powering the system via two different power supplies (12V for the LEDs, and 5V for the controller... maybe via USB), be sure you create a common ground between the controller and LEDs. Ground potential differences when using multiple power supplies can cause the LEDs to misbehave. Verify that you have the proper LED type and GPIO pin selected in WLED. And finally, double-check all wiring connections. If using something like Dupont jumpers, these can make loose or intermittent connections. If possible, try swapping out the wires to assure it isn't a problem with a particular wire or connection, especially those related to the data line. Those are the most common causes of misbehaving LEDs. While it is less likely, it is possible that the LEDs, shifter or ESP board is faulty or the WLED flash is corrupt. If you have the parts, you can try swapping out individually to see if the problem is resolved when a particular component is replaced. Hope that helps.
@@ResinChemTech Thank you so much for your kind and extensive explanation here are my replies: Did you include a logic level shifter? This will resolve most signal issue if wired properly. Assure you have 3.3V, GND and the data signal from the ESP connected to the LV side of the shifter and 5V, GND and the data line out to the LEDs on the HV side. Answer: Yes I did Assure the LEDs are receiving the expected 12V. If possible use a multimeter to verify the voltage is close to 12V at the +12V and GND connections at the start of the LEDs. Naturally, the controller should only be receiving 5V. Answer: Yes I made sure that it is a bit above 12V and there is also a transformer from 12V to 5V If powering the system via two different power supplies (12V for the LEDs, and 5V for the controller... maybe via USB), be sure you create a common ground between the controller and LEDs. Ground potential differences when using multiple power supplies can cause the LEDs to misbehave. Answer: That is why I made sure to include the transformer from 12V to 5V Verify that you have the proper LED type and GPIO pin selected in WLED. And finally, double-check all wiring connections. If using something like Dupont jumpers, these can make loose or intermittent connections. If possible, try swapping out the wires to assure it isn't a problem with a particular wire or connection, especially those related to the data line. Answer: I have done that, with the data line I connected it from the strip directly to the leveler shifter Those are the most common causes of misbehaving LEDs. While it is less likely, it is possible that the LEDs, shifter or ESP board is faulty or the WLED flash is corrupt. If you have the parts, you can try swapping out individually to see if the problem is resolved when a particular component is replaced. Hope that helps. Answer: This is not the issue, because I used a 5V Led Strip and it works perfectly, the issue is the with the 12V strip. Could it be that I am not setting the WLED correctly? Is there maybe an email where I can send you pictures of my setup so you ( if you want of course ) could check what am I doing wrong? Again, thank you so much for all your help!!!!
Ok, after a simple mistake, it’s working now perfect. Can you also trigger this by an event, I.e. if a volume is unter a set level ?
I believe that to navigate to a particular dashboard via something like an automation or script requires an add-on like the browser-mod. The issue is that the server knows nothing about the target browser. If you have 3 devices showing Home Assistant (say like a phone, tablet and PC), then the server doesn't know how to tell the browser on a particular device to go to a certain location. If it were to send out some sort of command, then all three devices could receive that command and switch to the new page/dashboard. You can certainly add buttons or links on a dashboard that can navigate to other dashboard or dashboard tabs, but to navigate via an event trigger, I believe some sort of third party app, like the browser-mod is needed. Someone else may know of another method, but that's the only one that I am aware of.
@@ResinChemTech Thanks for your reply ... yes, it looks like all subviews are saved locally and are only accessible locally. For example, a second display only shows the page that is directly accessible via the main dashboard menu but not the sub menus. So if a display is damaged, you run the risk of losing all the pages that you have moved from the main menu to the sub-pages. That's too dangerous for me, especially as HomeAssistant gets new features with every update, but the performance on the iPad gets worse and worse. I can no longer get the original app to run at all and HA only via the browser.... And it's getting slower and slower.
Just to clarify, the dashboard pages themselves are not saved locally... they are stored within Home Assistant... basically in YAML. You just can't navigate via server command on a particular device via automation without some sort of add-on. If you create a dashboard (or subview) on one device and it isn't showing on another device, you just need to reload/refresh the page on the second device. As soon as the page or site is refreshed, any saved changes on one device will show up on the other. I hope that clarifies things a bit. If you lose a display or display device, nothing in Home Assistant (including any dashboards, subviews, etc.) will be lost.
@@ResinChemTech Hi. And thanks for the reply but it really doesn't work in the iPad app, only in the browser. Could it be that the HA app still has a few bugs? I have restarted everything and deleted old memory entries, but in the iPad app I can only access the pages that are in the main menu, but not the subviews. (As I said, it works in the Chrome browser) But it is evident in many places that HA only supports Apple very poorly. A pity, really.
Thanks for all the info shared, much appreciated!!
You are very welcome! I hope that I might be able to inspire a few folks to give creating a DIY device a shot. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
Great job! Thank you for this!! I would be interested in a future video, broken down like this, just for ESPHome IOT devices and sensors along with code walkthroughs/examples for single and multiple sensors if possible. Best guide I've seen! Thanks again!!
Thanks for the kind words! I sorta' show just what you are talking about in my most recent video. It's targeted toward those that have never built a DIY device, but I do show a couple of examples of building a sensor with ESPHome... and even talk a little about using multiple sensors with a single ESP32. Don't know if that might be helpful or not. But regardless, thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
Great work. I have been planing to do one of these but most of the things I could find didn't give as thorough an explination, thanks. I now have a better understanding of what is going on in the power supply that i should be able to figure it out.
Thanks. This was one of my favorite projects and also resulted in something that I use on a regular basis. Glad you found the video helpful.
About the wider ESP32 on breadboard, I usually pull away one of the "powerstrips" then combine two breadboards, that way the ESP32 can be placed across two breadboards and give you plenty of holes on both sides of the ESP32 🙂
I have a larger prototype breadboard (similar to this amzn.to/3zFho7A ) where I can do the same thing with the wider ESP32s. But I was trying to keep the starter parts list as simple and low cost as possible for someone just starting out, and I've had a lot of comments from folks that bought and ESP32 and that it wouldn't fit on a standard breadboard (or more commonly the ElectroCookie solderable breadboard), so I wanted to mention that you could buy the narrower ESP32s when using a breadboard or an ElectroCookie. But I appreciate the tip, as it could definitely help others just starting out. And thanks for watching!
My first project was the 2$ doorbell by Franck.
There are a lot of great projects out there that can be done by someone with little-to-no experience. For some (myself included at the start), you just have to get over the fear that you might fry an occasional component now and then and that with just a little bit of learning, these types of projects can be built by most anyone without a workshop full of tools and equipment.
Great video. Thank you for putting out content like this.
You are very welcome! I do try to target a range of experiences in my videos, but this one was specifically targeted at those people that have said that they'd love to try one of my projects, but either had trepidations or felt like things were too complicated. I really wanted to show that you can get started (safely) with very few items, then slowly add some basic tools and components as you gain experience. Thanks for watching... and thanks so much for the kind comment!