To be clear- this is NOT intended to be a tutorial or guide on wheel building and wheel truing. This is the 2nd wheel i have built- i don’t claim to be an expert, this is just what i did! If you are building a wheel please see the links in the description to better resources!

Overall good info but there are a couple of steps missing. The first is making sure the wheel is round. You would do that by bringing the stand arms down to the outer edges of the rim and seeing where it strikes them. You would then tighten the spokes around the high spots to bring the wheel into round. Considering the speeds I suspect you are looking at maybe doing, having a good and round wheel may be what keeps you with the rolling side down. The other is pre-stressing the spokes. You want to do this step after you have the wheel rounded and true as the spokes need to be at or very close to their final tension. This can be done by putting the wheel flat on the ground with a piece of wood or something to protect the hub. Put your hands on the side of the rim across from each other and pushing down hard. You may hear the spokes ping as they are getting seated against each other or in the hub flange and the nipples in the rim. Rotate the wheel or move your hands a bit around the rim and do this until you have pushed seated all the spokes. Do this to both sides of the wheel and re-true the wheel. I like to go through this at least I've seen old school builders that would even stand on the rim. This step will help with the wheel durability as it will lessen the amount of loosening that will happen in the early use of the wheel. I always bring my wheels back to the stand after each ride for the first few rides to ensure all the spokes are still in proper tension as they settle in. Loose spokes is the most common failure of a wheel barring crashes. When they are loose the elbow is able to move around in the hub flange and will break there. One other note for anyone following this guide is to make smaller and smaller adjustments the tighter the spokes get. Once I have the dish correct I start turning each nipple less and less. Smaller adjustments make it easier to get everything lined up.

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

correct, good points. I mention Radial truing, but also said I don't intend this to be a tutorial on wheel truing. This is the 2nd wheel I have built, I don't claim to be a master, just showing the general steps. I take it very easy riding the wheel around slow in the driveway at first, and will make more adjustments after riding with a load on the bike. I'm not quite there yet, still haven't installed the wheel, waiting on my z916 extension cable and flange nuts. I do plan on riding at the speeds you suspect Lol, so i will take my time with it. Thanks for the tips I will try them out when I make further adjustments to the wheel.

@GeekBoi

Жыл бұрын

@@EBikeBuilder_ Yeah I figured you would be doing more with the wheel when you mentioned the park tools video. Just wanted to get the info out there for anyone that might be inclined to follow along. My first wheel build failed miserably and I wasted a fair amount of money on spokes to rebuild it a second time. Thankfully I did not crash as a result.

That’s going to be a beast!! 👍

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

not entirely practical. but it should be fun and entertaining 🤣

wow nice

I'm doing the same thing but use an All Axel direct drive in the front with 3 20 AH 72v batteries. Just waiting for the 3 Phaserunners to come in stock. I believe all 3 motors can be run off of 1 throttle. This bike is geared down for torque not speed but believe all 3 together will do more than 70 km/hr. Strictly a bush mountain climber.

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

i dont know if they make the phaserunners anymore? i thought the frankenrunner had replaced them. Maybe it was just a short term thing due to component shortages im not sure. I havent seen phase runners in stock since the plague happened. Grin Tech has a CA3-WP splitter cable that can apparently be used to hook up multiple motors to a single cycle analyst, it might be limited to 2 motors im not sure. Grin has some videos about it but not much written documentation. In any case that All Axle hub looks awesome man ive been close to pulling the trigger on one of those! Let me know how it goes id love to see!

@rufusirvin5279

Жыл бұрын

Have been in contact with them and should

@rufusirvin5279

Жыл бұрын

Phaserunners should finally be in soon.contacted them about the splitters waiting for reply to see if 3 motors can be run on 1 CA3- W P

I'm thinking of putting a direct drive on my ebike to enhance the top end speed. My ariel rider kepler tops out at about 33mph on flat throttle Only. How manu amps and volts should the front hub direct drive be so it could hit 45mph? Hoping to run 52v!

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

That's interesting i thought i kept hearing ppl say the Kepler tops out at like 36 or 38. But makes sense i think when my G62 was on 52V i had it set to 40A with my frankenrunner and it was doing like 36mph was the fastest i could get it to go on 52V. What I would do is goto the Grin Tech motor simulator, and plug in a direct drive motor comparable to the one you want to use. Then change the settings like controller amps, battery voltage, the motor winding kV is also important, it will give you a theoretical top speed, and how long it takes to overheat etc.

3 motors must be quite an experience! Will you put also 3 batteries? Also 72 Volt on front motor?

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

yeah its gonna be 3 batteries, i'll have to have one in a backpack till i figure out how to get it on the bike. Im not gonna do 72V on the front motor, it would require an expensive controller thats kind of overkill for a 750w motor. I might in the future so i can get both hub motors hooked up to 1 throttle and the cycle analyst display. For starts the G60 will be on 48V or 52V with a stock ish controller doing about 1100W

Hi,,,great work on your vids,,,🙂. I have an inquiry I was hoping you can help me with. Due to buying a kit/individual parts,,,would it be possible to just buy an inexpensive fat ebike,and just swap the rear hub motor to the front?

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

You can use whatever motor you want, as long as it can fit in the bike dropouts. However, the front and rear motors come in different widths. So generally you need a front-specific, or a rear-specific motor. Because the dropout spacing on a rear fat bike is usually 170mm or 190mm. And the front fork usually is 135mm. If you want a front motor, it would need to fit in the front fork. Bafang for example has the "FM G60" which means "front motor", and the "RM G60" which is a rear motor. The rear motor is wider because it has the gears cluster. I hope that answers your question. In general I would recommend a rear wheel drive ebike. The front wheel motors spin out and can be dangerous.

@invictus204

Жыл бұрын

@@EBikeBuilder_ Thank you for your reply,,,I will get a FM then,,,,🙂🙂👍👍👍

Would you be willing to post that motor link from ali ? I can't find a front 750 with the right connector anywhere 😢.

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

hey mate I got mine from this link, but since i have bought it they have changed some of the pictures, and it looks like the connector is different (red color?? it looks kind of like an L1019 connector except its red and its got more pins. It looks like it comes with the wires split so you would have to wire it to a controller manually unless you can find a controller with that red connector. www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804492408957.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.57a61802DkDoxc&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

20inches normal hub motor can install to 20x4 fat tire wheel?

@EBikeBuilder_

8 ай бұрын

depends on the width of the motor and the length of its axle. ANd the width of your bike dropouts. A normal hub motor is probably 135mm wide. Fat bike hub motors are 170 or 190mm wide.

I like that, send me the link to them tires, I want some for my fat tire build.

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

The front is a Maxxis Minion FBF, the rear is Minion FBR, they come in different sizes i have 26x4, there are also fatter 26x4.8, i think there’s a 27” one. They can be hard to find i got mine from some random bike shop’s website. There are some on Amazon that are 26x4.8”, but those are super fat and might not fit all bikes and rims. I like the 26x4 because my rims can do tires from 3” to 4.25” wide. I had to do some searching back when i bought mine a couple years ago. When i get a chance I’ll look for a link and if i find anything I’ll let you know. You might want to pick out a bike first so you can get the right size tires. i don’t think i can fit the 26x4.8 on my bike they are too wide for my front forks.

@rufusirvin5279

Жыл бұрын

I have an AWD bike from Eunorau. One thing I learned is you need tubes on front and back with nuts to hold them to rim as the torque will make the tube spin inside tire.

@rufusirvin5279

Жыл бұрын

Forgot I use Maxxis FBR on front and back as the FBF were designed for non motorized bicycle for better traction. FBR were designed to push the bike. I primarily use front wheel drive because we're you point the bike is the direction your going to go. When you get into slippery ruts mud or snow and you try and get out the front may only slide along the rut and won't climb out so put in AWD and back tire pushes tire out then front tire will pull back tire out. Love AWD.

my front g060 arrives tomorrow :D Did you end up using just 1 front torque arm?

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

Nice!! Did you find the fm g60 on Ali? I’m using the torque washers that the motor came with. In an RST GUIDE 26 fork that’s got chunkier dropouts. Grin tech came out with a new torque arm I’m gonna try. Kind of expensive but supposedly an improvement

@Dus306

Жыл бұрын

@@EBikeBuilder_ bought it from the link you provided earlier. Seems they changed to that new connector but making me an adapter free of charge. I'm using their v6 on my back hub.... no comparison to the cheap ones I bought and returned off Amazon. V3 for the front I guess?

Some one knows if you can put that motor in the normal rim no fat ?

@EBikeBuilder_

2 ай бұрын

It needs 175mm rear dropouts, you could spread a steel frame and put it in

@fammla03

2 ай бұрын

@@EBikeBuilder_ but I'm have 1500w motor hub and is so much bigger than this one

Oh,man, what is with you foot?

the blue wheel looks better

@EBikeBuilder_

10 ай бұрын

yeah thats the rim that came on the original mongoose dolomite. I thought the blue was cool too but those rims werent ideal for lacing in a hub motor. They were super cheap walmart bike rims. They are actually pretty good theres nothing wrong with them. I beat on them and they held up well

Overkill.

I built one hub motor wheel about a year ago. I did not enjoy it. I hope to never do it again or use my Park truing stand.

@EBikeBuilder_

11 ай бұрын

i agree its a tedious job i dont enjoy it either, but its a valuable skill to have, being able to put together a wheel with specific components. I try to avoid taking the wheels off my hub motor bikes Lol and I use zip ties to do most of the lateral deviations and basic truing. But if you are building a wheel or making lots of adjustments to the spokes the truing stand is invaluable

@georose33

11 ай бұрын

@@EBikeBuilder_ The only reason I even decided to do it was my LBS told me they don't build wheels. Years ago another LBS, who has since closed, built one for me. It was cheaper than buying all the tools to do your own.

I'm thinking of putting a direct drive on my ebike to enhance the top end speed. My ariel rider kepler tops out at about 33mph on flat throttle Only. How manu amps and volts should the front hub direct drive be so it could hit 45mph? Hoping to run 52v!

@marthamryglod291

Жыл бұрын

I can cruise at 40 with max speed of 48 on 45amps 72v 2,000 watt direct drive. I don't know what 52 would be, but it will be slower.

@EBikeBuilder_

Жыл бұрын

sorry just saw this, yT loves to hide some comments from me. You could use the Grin Tech motor simulator with various configurations to determine what you'd need to hit 45mph. It will probably require 72V+ and a good amount of amps/ high current