Dang, I miss being up at the shop and nerding out on these trucks and talking through changes with you. I wish this service was available when I first started out on my build. It would have saved me hours of searching the forums and comparing opinions to figure out what sounded logical and how to plan the next step. Thanks for having a bunch of information out here for all levels to use! You're rad dude!

Good stuff thanks for sharing your knowledge

4-4 speed L-Longitudinally mounted 60-6,000 lbs vehicle E-Electronic

My burb has got a 14ff but it's got a dana 44 up front. Guessing I'll be saving for the 60 before I swap out the 350 tbi

@MerricksGarage

Жыл бұрын

depending on what you do with it, the Dana 44 can be plenty strong. Don't count it out!

@jacobking4106

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@@MerricksGarage I plan on just doing minor trails and some towing and work load. It's on 315/75/18's. You think I should use the 44 till she goes? I appreciate all you're video's and wealth of knowledge man

This was a VERY informative video and much appreciated. I hope you can do more of these in the future and post them here. This helps me understand and that type of build is similar to what id want in my 87 Jimmy. The only diference is I want the bumpers and a winch mount. Oh, and my rim selection would probably be different. Is there any advantage to the ole 15" old school rims? My thought is more sidewall when airing down in sand or snow. Oh and BIG BIG question: I want the ability to run full blown v bar chains front and rear when necessary because I like to hunt and snowy forest roads and steep climbs on two track could be a challenge. Would the 4" lift and 35's still be a go when running the chains? thanks!

Pull the carpet to see how bad the rust is.You are absolutely right James it's an excellent hobby.So the 241 transfer case has a passenger side output going to the front diff?

@jhestrada1430

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That’s what I have in my K5, LS 6.0, 4l65e, 241C transfer case passenger drop that came out of a 90 or 91 Burb.

What would you charge for a 14bff?

G’day James . . . very cool service offering and thanks to you and your client for posting this. Was going to reach out and see if I could get some time from you to talk through questions on my ‘91 Suburban, but this service offering makes it easy. Sometimes good just to bounce ideas and see if you’re missing something or there’s an easier way. We’ll be talking for sure! Couple of points in re the discussion here (I’ll put links in replies to this comment): Dropping the fuel tank - 500 lb hydraulic lift table from Harbor Freight made this easy for my 40 gallon tank. Table rolled right under the truck, raised the table snug under the tank, removed strap bolts, lowered the tank a little, disconnected the lines and removed fuel pump (wrapped fuel pump in garbage bag), lowered it the rest of the way and rolled it out. Reverse to install. (Note, I was able to remove and reinstall the fuel pump retaining ring with a flat head screwdriver but it took some time, the proper tool would have been helpful.) HF’s 1,000lb table has a marginally larger table but I had the 500lb one already and it worked great. Rivet removal - I got the Hougen RotaCut kit. Believe I used the 7/16 bit. Cuts the head off and leaves a ‘stump’ to hit with a 2lb+ mallet. Super easy. RotaCuts were the easiest and fastest way when you can get to the head. Lube the bits to keep them cool while drilling. Some of the rivet heads on my driver rear spring shackle hanger were behind the spare tire well (Suburban) and couldn’t be accessed with the drill for the RotaCuts so I came at them from the ‘back’, which 100% requires fuel tank removal, and drilled through with a regular bit and then used an air hammer. Some wouldn’t budge with the air hammer so used a large point chisel from Home Depot with a mallet and that shifted them. Also, the air hammer was sliding but the point in the chisel dug in and stuck. Had to be very aggressive with the mallet. ORD suspension is the only way to go. My 5” ORD custom suspension revolutionized my ride vs the 6” Rough Country it replaced. But note, everyone talks about the shackle flip for the rear and I was going that way. Then I saw Merrick and Willomet both with tension shackles and not the flip. Did more research and the ORD tension shackle is the right way. You’ll find discussion forums where Stephen from ORD recommends the tension. If you’re spending good money on a custom suspension, you want to do it right. The flip makes sense if you’re on a budget and want to keep stock springs. The price difference tension vs flip is negligible on a custom suspension. Now, there’s some tricks for the 5” rear springs to get them stretched to install but that’s beyond scope here. But anyone that wants to walk through what I did (by myself, in my garage, no special tools) reach out. Definitely interested in an Amp step solution! (Same for the low profile front bumper light bar.) Thanks James!

What to you change for your constitution