L24: Reinforcing Break Line / Bridling - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль
In this video lesson, we are going to reinforce the break-line of our jacket by applying a strip of Silesia that is cut on the straight grain. This strip is often referred to as a "bridle". Since the break-line of our jacket is on the bias grain, it is prone to stretching which can ruin the horizontal balance of the garment. At later stages, the bridle will be padded along with the lapels to keep it permanently in place.
𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀
Join us in a crystal clear, step-by-step virtual apprenticeship with our free, in-depth coat-making course on KZread. We have two models to choose from, one for beginners (Traditional Model) and one for advanced levels (Pagoda Model). Each model has its own unique playlist and materials bundle called "Purple Box".
𝐀𝐥𝐥 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐧𝐞𝐞𝐝 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐨 𝐢𝐬:
1. Choose your model
2. Order your bundle (optional but highly recommended)
3. Subscribe and start learning!
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// HOW TO MAKE A BESPOKE JACKET - TAILORING COURSE //
Module 1 - How to Baste a Jacket
Lesson 24 - Reinforcing Break Line / Bridling | Traditional Model
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// CHAPTERS //
00:00 - Welcome to lesson 24
01:12 - Mark break line on fabric & canvas
05:57 - Trim back horsehair & domette on break line
07:15 - Preparing the bridle (silesia)
10:24 - Apply bridle on break line
#tailoringcourse #internationalschooloftailoring #bridling #bespoketailoring #ISOT #tailoringlessons #freetailoringclass #tailoringforbeginners
Пікірлер: 18
Love how detail oriented this is... what country does this training stem from?
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Thank you! I’m happy that you like this. These are universal methods, used in many countries. Please note that I’m not teaching “Italian” or “English” tailoring. While both jackets have an English looking style, I’m really teaching the alphabet of tailoring. Basic principles and techniques that allow you to make whatever you want, once mastered. Reza
@antmarzo9392
Жыл бұрын
@OFFICIALISOT I appreciate you for the passing on expensive knowledge
I have tried to figure this out. Thank you. I tried buying one of the bundles and can't remember which of the two. Is it sold out?
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Hello 👋🏼. You can purchase our bundles in the link below: www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/category/purple-box-bundles I’m we still have some in stock for both models. Please let me know how you get on. Reza
@antmarzo9392
Жыл бұрын
@@OFFICIALISOT thank you
Hi Reza, where did you get the graphite from? I cant seem to find it locally.
@OFFICIALISOT
8 ай бұрын
Check this out: www.jacksonsart.com/viarco-artgraf-tailor-shape-watersoluble-graphite?channable=0044a569640031323231383645&___store=jacksonsart_en Reza
@carlovdbroeck998
8 ай бұрын
Thank you!🙏🏼
Any particular reason why you do a 1 inch wide bridle? I've seen tailors do more
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Bridles don’t need to be very wide. Tailors do all sorts of things without solid reasoning. When I was an ignorant apprentice, I would apply 2” wide bridles! Thinking that it would “make a better roll” or “provide extra support”, all very low resolution thinking and reasoning. I later learned after thorough examination that the wider the bridle, the stiffer the break line area and the more prone to breaks it becomes. The bridle’s main function is to prevent the break line from stretching. Covering the break line by 1/2” on either side is more than enough to do this. Adding more unnecessary materials and layers is not a sign of quality or optimised function. Excellence practised in the wrong direction is waste. Only if you don’t have enough control over your work, and your break line may not end up rolling to where it should, do you need a wider coverage “just in case”. Hope this helps. Reza
I want to learn how to draft suit pattern please 🙏🙏🙏
Pardon Reza, why there is no need to do any gathering in the traditional model? Cheers
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
1. It’s a basic model for beginners that don’t have a lot of experience. Simplicity therefore, is important. 2. Since I teach both with and without a gather, one had to be without and the Traditional Model was best suited. 3. A gather on the break line has a specific function that is not applicable to the traditional model. 4. I want to show that a gather is not always necessary and that doing it by default is foolish. Reza
@Noodles-kc1bw
Жыл бұрын
@@OFFICIALISOT 4. and how can we judge by ourself if it is necessary?
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
@@Noodles-kc1bw 1. Understand the technique inside out by playing with samples; test its limits and effects on different materials. 2. Know what you want; define your aim and vision. Visualise what the final result should be like. 3. Ask yourself if this technique will help you achieve the results that you want. 4. See if other techniques give the same results with more efficiency, accuracy and beauty. 5. Do the exercises of lesson 14; Darts and wedges. Reza.
@isaare
6 күн бұрын
Is It ok using the selvedge of out fabric as bridgling tape?
@isaare
6 күн бұрын
*our