L14: Darts & Wedges Explained | Online Coat Making Course
Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль
In this very important video lesson, we will thoroughly walk you through darts and wedges, which are both subsets of the Law of Relative Length.
Most shapes and volumes that are created in any sewing discipline are done with the introduction of darts or wedges. Not only will we cover the different types of darts and wedges that are commonly used, but we'll also challenge you further with three exercises to sharpen up your skills.
𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀
Join us in a crystal clear, step-by-step virtual apprenticeship with our free, in-depth coat-making course on KZread. We have two models to choose from, one for beginners (Traditional Model) and one for advanced levels (Pagoda Model). Each model has its own unique playlist and materials bundle called "Purple Box".
𝐀𝐥𝐥 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐧𝐞𝐞𝐝 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐨 𝐢𝐬:
1. Choose your model
2. Order your bundle (optional but highly recommended)
3. Subscribe and start learning!
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➤ GET YOUR PURPLE BOX (TRADITIONAL & PAGODA BUNDLE):
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➤ INSTAGRAM:
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// HOW TO MAKE A BESPOKE JACKET - TAILORING COURSE //
Module 1 - How to Baste a Jacket
Lesson 14 - Darts & Wedges Explained
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// CHAPTERS //
00:00 - Welcome to lesson 14
00:37 - Connection Map - Darts & Wedges
01:24 - How do darts and wedges arise?
06:14 - Single dart
09:00 - Single dart on shoulder seam
09:31 - Double dart
11:22 - How double darts & wedges are the same
14:28 - Double dart on side seams
15:30 - Simplified body
18:24 - Real body & fabric
20:19 - Pocket cut
24:27 - Asymmetrical dart
27:40 - Curved dart
36:30 - Hammer dart
38:17 - Tuck dart
40:26 - Curved wedge
41:53 - Re-cap
42:59 - Exercise 1: draw simplified objects
44:11 - Exercise 2: translate to paper models
45:25 - Exercise 3: introduce darts and wedges
50:41 - Caution!
51:41 - Blooper
#tailoringcourse #internationalschooloftailoring #darts #bespoketailoring #ISOT #tailoringlessons #freetailoringclass #tailoringforbeginners
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF TAILORING
Пікірлер: 75
This channel is so criminally underrated... Sharing the knowledge that helps anyone really *understand* the construction of a complex garment is invaluable. I can't wait to make my first suit, you've made it even more exciting!
@sbaumgartner9848
Жыл бұрын
I agree. And also respect the training and skills that go into construction. What I find is that few of these people make an income that reflects the huge amount of money and effort they've put into their trade.
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
That’s exactly our purpose. If we succeed in teaching you the “alphabet” of tailoring, then I’m confident that you’ll be capable of making pretty much whatever your imagination generates! Thank you for your wonderful comment. I had never heard of criminally underrated 😄 Reza
@MrMusickey
11 ай бұрын
It truly is. Initially I was trudging through those old German tailoring books and couldn't make heads or tails of what the text was saying. But with Reza and his team, they visually show the steps and explain the theory in such a way that it genuinely makes sense.
@JojoAde
8 ай бұрын
@@MrMusickeyexactly! I hope everyone of us make donations so this can continue
@roxananedelcu5619
8 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for your work and generosity. It is so good and easy to understand, it is all the details which makes the difference and no one tell you about! Thank you! Reza’s presentation skills are also amaizing! Love it all!
I seriously wish all the classes I took at school were this well explained. The brief review on relative length at the beginning of the video complemented really well the video lesson where you explain it. I was amazed at how well I felt the concept click in my mind and made me grasp it a lot better. Thanks a lot for your excellent way of teaching and I'm looking forward to the following videos on the course!
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
This is great feedback! Thank you. I’m very happy to know you enjoyed the lesson and found it useful. Mission accomplished! You are welcome 🙏🏼 Reza
What an amazing lesson. Came here to learn how to make a jacket, leaving inspired to recreate everyday items with paper and tape!
@OFFICIALISOT
10 ай бұрын
That's the spirit! A jacket is just another everyday item :) Reza
This was great. It's one thing to teach people how to do something, but to teach them why they are doing it is amazing.
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
I fully agree with you. I’m glad this is reflected in the lesson. Thank you Eva. Reza
Omg! Never before I enjoyed an hour class at school as I just did! 🤣❤I'll definitely try to do the exercise at the end. Wish me luck! 😝
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Good luck Kenneth! Persist through then and you’ll master it. See it as a software update for your mind😄 Reza
Brilliant explanation! This is far and away the best explanation I have ever seen! A basic dart and a double dart were always pretty easy to understand intuitively but the wedge and it’s relationship to the double dart blew me away. Excellent work!!!
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Mission accomplished! :D Reza
This video blew my mind
THIS IS AMAZING!
I love this tutorial so much that i didn't know time is far spent😂 Thank you Reza and team ❤❤ much love 💕 💕
@OFFICIALISOT
8 ай бұрын
Enjoy :) For more resources, check out our website: www.internationalschooloftailoring.com// Reza
I have to admit that I thought this was going to be a boring lesson and perhaps even useless. I was so wrong! This is absolutely fantastic. I’ve had many sewing and tailoring classes, and I cant think of any one class that I’ve enjoyed more. I’m just blown away by how good this is. I’ve watched twice and I’m about to watch again in preparation for doing the exercises. Just when you think you already know something…
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Very happy to read this. Enjoy:) Reza
Being a visual learner, I thank you for the examples with the shapes!!! You gave me a whole new perspective and it makes so much more sense
@OFFICIALISOT
6 ай бұрын
I'm very happy that this was helpful :) Reza
This is crazy. While I understand the execution can be complicated, if one takes their time, a person will always be able to construct any object by using these extremely well-explained concepts. A couple of years ago I decided to draft my first pair of slacks. Six months later I had a pattern for elastic waisted lounge pants and up to a dozen un-usable slopers. Reading various sources in books and studying photos on the web, I was left so confused by instructions saying if you have pull lines going this way, do this; If you have pull lines going that way, do that, yet they often didn’t work out. You have explained in the simplest terms the why that lies behind so many seemingly random adjustments. I can also see now, while in theory, so many of the recommended adjustments appeared to be common sense, they were in fact missing an element or simply wrong. Well done Reza. Been sewing for forty years and you just made sense of something I took for granted on purchased patterns.
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
I'm very happy to read this. If I can simplify these concepts and bring valuable insight, then we're making some progress on our end :) Reza
Wooow you're the best teacher, it's awesome ❤❤❤
@OFFICIALISOT
6 ай бұрын
Thank you! 😃 Reza
Oh my God... Thank you so much ❤️❤️❤️
These videos are a gift the world doesn’t deserve. Thank you!!!!! Would you be able to share the make of the iron you were using please?
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Thank you Marina. You’re very kind. The iron is from Stirovap Italy. It’s 5kg in weight. If you are based in the UK, you can contact Danor Engineering and see if they have any in stock.
This channel is fantastic. Can't wait to be able to get the course package, this knowledge has ought to be preserved aside from haute couture sewing that is available to the 0,1% of the population. Tailored clothes can make any body look fabulous, unlike modern clothing without structure, made out if stretch fabric that hides poor patterning.
first unique video ive ever seen on youtube
@OFFICIALISOT
6 ай бұрын
That's a big compliment. Thank you! Reza
So far my favorite lesson! Darts and wedges🥰
Thank you for this series. I loved this lesson,
@OFFICIALISOT
6 ай бұрын
You're very welcome :) Reza
OMG! Thank You Mr Reza. This lesson was fascinating! And Ms. Mowgli and You are lovely! You are a genius.
This is mind blowing... It's so well explained... I've been looking for content about tailoring for a long time and I'm very grateful you're providing this for free... I hope your channel grows...
Best lesson so far. Thank you for the home work as well. Very excited to try this out.
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Looking forwards to see your results! Reza
Excellent. God bless you.
I am really amazed about you and your channel. I 'm gonna watch this video more and more. I wish you the most luck
@OFFICIALISOT
5 ай бұрын
Thank you! I'm very happy that you found our channel and can benefit from it. Reza
Perfect...
It is very interesting, I loved this class, sir, I can only say thank you.
I must say, your work is absolutely amazing. I'm not sure my professors at uni had that much knowledge about the mechanics of garment construction. You're a talented teacher, too, which makes these videos a joy to watch and learn from. I had a question about the hammer dart positioned on the break line- how would the same amount be subtracted from the facing, if at all? I imagine that would be important in order to allow it to lay flat on top? Thank you so much for your exceptional work!
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for the compliments. I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos. The facing doesn’t need that dart or any special shaping to accommodate for it. That dart really affects the chest, and not the lapel. The facing only covers the lapel. Reza
Thanks!
Great video 👍
excellent; outstanding; marvelous
I am so speechless this lesson is amazing. I watched it two times 😍Thank you thank you 🙏🏼🙏🏼 Best of luck for you and your team ❤
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Thank you. I’m very happy that you like it. Reza
Thank you, sir. Your explanation clear all of my doubts.
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
You’re welcome Suneel. Reza
What an amazing enriching lesson. Thank you very much!
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
You're welcome Sergio! Reza
Thank you a lots for your sharing ❤
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Pleasure is all mine. Reza
Dank u wel. Heel erg verhelderend.
Amazing.
Really never had it explained so clearly. It makes so much sense now, haha. So question to see if I understand. If I see tailors use a double dart in the front part, it means they will have to use to iron to shrink some uit in the lower half of the forepart?
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
Very happy to know this. Answer: No. You can’t “shrink” a dart flat. You can only compress it for a while. It will come back. The correct thing would be to use a single front dart with a pocket cut. You can always fiddle and do acrobatics with inappropriate techniques and make them work, but it’s as if you’re trying to chop an onion with a fork while the knife is also available and more appropriate. Reza
For some reason my original comment is no longer there. Anyways, Reza outdid himself with this lesson. And now he's rightfully thrown in back into our court to practice what he's shown us.
Thank you very much for the lesson! What would you recommend to use if I need to make a dart to accomodate a female chest, but I don't want to draw extra attention to the curves? I would like to get as masculine fit as possible, but with keeping some space for comfortable fit Could you give me advice in which direction I should look for this? Thanks a lot for your work! This is extremely generous of you to share this amount of professional knowledge on KZread
♥️
vera interesting! thank you for sharing. do you recommend any reading materials on the topic? if you have any articles or books on the subject please let me know, i’m focused on improving my knowledge about the theory involved in garment making
no lesson this week? :(
“Like so”
Is the reversed tuck dart used anywhere?
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
You could use it wherever you see fit. Generally not used on traditional suits. More in costume design. Reza
Mi idioma es español, y mientras veo la traducción me pierdo las indicaciones gráficas. Es excelente profesional pero no puedo aprovechar todo
@KennethMadisson
Жыл бұрын
Siempre es bueno aprender inglés. 😊
@OFFICIALISOT
Жыл бұрын
We are working on a Spanish Translation with a very professional team of tailors from Chile 🇨🇱 😄 Reza
🤓