The driver side sure was a son of a buck compared to the other side. Pulling the shock is not really necessary I went a few more pumps on my jack and just moved it up and away and secured it with a bungee. Great quality parts super fast shipping thanks very much!

@fullaccessutv

2 жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. The only reason we don’t recommend going much further is you don’t want the CV shaft to Fall apart. It happened to a friend of ours.

Do you support disconnecting the sway bar on the front and rear after adding the supports? I just purchased a 2024 KRX Trail Edition and wanted to get your opinion on disconnecting the sway bars. I ride mainly in the woods in Ohio, Kentuckey and West Virginia like Hatfield McCoy. It is a lot of steep hills, mud and rock. Let me know. Thanks

@fullaccessutv

Ай бұрын

@@miketaylor1064 I run with mine disconnected 99% of the time. We have a video on that.

It seems like the top shock mount bolt is to short after placing the spacers. No thread sticking out from the nut.

@fullaccessutv

8 ай бұрын

Is it our brand?

For live valve shocks do you just unplug the wiring from the shock for removal?

@fullaccessutv

5 ай бұрын

there is a pigtail that plugs into the shocks and goes approx 6" away. unplug it there.

Take a small bungee cord and wrap it around the wire loom to pull it out of the way. Less aggravation, little bolts still a pain for those with fat stubby fingers.

@mudridermuddy3036

Жыл бұрын

Torque specs for us dummies for all your installation products when applicable would be nice.

Do the holes for small bolts line up from each side? IF so wouldn't it make more sense to have one long bolt go through all the way with one nut on each? I don't have a KRX yet but saw this and I am considering one. And also thanks for making these products and videos. I know if I get a KRX I will be purchasing these.

@fullaccessutv

Жыл бұрын

No, then your just attempting to crush the shock mount itself. The bolt would never stay tight. Also there is not enough room on the bottom to clear the shock eye.

@chuckvedder1227

11 ай бұрын

I think you could use just 2 longer bolts, but you would need to have either brass, stainless, or plastic tube/spacers to put in between the factory tabs of the mounts. Currently you have room for the four nuts on the inside, there is room for tubes/spacers. Now it wouldn't crush and your bolts would stay tight.@@fullaccessutv

Torque spec for rear shock bolts ??

@chuckvedder1227

11 ай бұрын

70.5 lbs

Do you recommend welding these on? Or just red locktite?

@fullaccessutv

10 ай бұрын

just loctite. if yours is "really bad" or torn weld them on.

I just installed the shock mount brace is it ok for there to be fewer threads coming out on the back side ?

@fullaccessutv

2 жыл бұрын

thats normal. there is still enough threads that we did not replace the bolts like our A arm braces.

@deltafly4545

2 жыл бұрын

@@fullaccessutv Thank you !

@markgaring6886

2 жыл бұрын

@@fullaccessutv There's not enough threads to engage the lock nut. Needs a longer bolt. Definitely adding some Locktite and researching a longer bolt.

@fullaccessutv

2 жыл бұрын

@@markgaring6886 Loctite never hurts. However the next longest bolt is 3/4 of an inch which runs in to issues hitting the inside frame tube on some. As long as the bolt is through the night that’s as strong as it could ever be. Just make sure it’s tight with Loctite

It’s a Kawasaki. It uses metric system. Why can you not supply metric nuts and bolts. Seriously.

@fullaccessutv

2 жыл бұрын

Everything in our kits is metric. All of the kits are metric. If you’re referring to the shock mount brace, even the video instructions mention metric tools. Everything is metric so I’m confused as to what you’re saying.

@garyhasemeyer5762

2 жыл бұрын

@@fullaccessutv I believe you stated we should use a 7/16 wrench

@fullaccessutv

2 жыл бұрын

@@garyhasemeyer5762 you are correct. And now that I think about it the above response I said was incorrect. Yes a 8 mm bolt is too big to fit through the holes and a 6 mm is too small. The holes are just the perfect size for a 1/4”bolt and it fits tight. That’s why it’s 7/16 wrench. I would’ve used metric however there is no way people would’ve drilled those out. Including myself.