Easy fix!!!! Yee Haw!!! Great work, we are already subscribed to Hooks Hot Rods!!!!!

Mix match parts sometimes work, and sometimes don't. I'm glad that you found a fix Dave.

thats awesome Dave and thank you for the shout out

Nice work, I was diagnosing temperature spikes in my 350 and ended up changing the temperature sensor as well. What really cooled the engine down was dumping all the green coolant, flushing it and switching to straight water with royal purple additive as well as new Stant 180 thermostat. It runs at straight 180 or even under it while driving and idling. In Florida I don’t need antifreeze so that’s a benefit.

YES- What a result!! Much better....Kudos to Alan (also looking forward to seeing that running...it is sweeeeet!). Great video. :)

Remember to mix your antifreeze/water at 50/50. This is important for proper cooling and to prevent freezing. Glad the new sender worked for you.

Thanks for the drive Dave another good video thanks👍👍👍

Hi Scott and another job well done 👍♥️😎

It's good you flushed the block. Another downfall to Teflon tape is small pieces won't resolve, like excess silicone it just blocks small ports.

If you look along the oil pan rail in the center of your engine(side of block)you will see a pipe plug on each bank of cylinders.these lead into the water jacket.You can remove these,attach a garden hose to top heater hose and flush the crap out of the bottom of the block.Sometimes they are plugged with crap,poke a wire in to get flow going.You can back flush also with a nozzle.

Good thinking to seal the threads Dave, have distorted reducers before trying to do it on torque alone. Great to see it read better now ! I always settle out my coolant if it still reads -10 or more, its like pouring homebrew with sediment... if you have to let it tip back you are done : ]

Nice one Alan

Nice one Dai.its all a process of elimination

Just between us, it’s possible that some work on your biceps and triceps would be helpful for cases where you would need more coolant out of the tube. Extremely helpful just kidding about those biceps. However, your tummy does look like it’s in donut installer mode a whole lot. Extremely helpful video those tubes. Go everywhere on everyone else too. !

To avoid sediments in the cooling system of the engine, I mix 50% antifreeze with 50% distilled water. The quality of tap water is suspect:; maybe in Canada is different. Best wishes

I would drive it for few days and flush it again put just water in it do the same thing a couple times then put the antifreeze in it Your wrench is 12 point or 6 point same with sockets but this is why I like mechanical gauges instead of electrical ones less trouble but glad you got it fixed and now you can enjoy it without worrying about over heating so cruise the wheels off of it having fun

@ScottRods

3 жыл бұрын

You have no idea the relief I feel. Every drive was like leaning back on a chair just before it falls over, lol. Can't wait to go out driving tomorrow.

It is a 50ish year old cast iron engine. There is bound to be a little rust. If you are truly worried run just water for a while then flush again. And add anti freeze next time. It will not get cold enough for 6 months now to worry about

the multi hex is a 12 point socket, the other option is a 6 point socket.

Way to go Dave using a cheater pipe to break it loose. Should solve the heating problem. Had to do the same on a Ford pickup.

Dave they sell thermometers that look like a thermometer for a turkey at auto parts stores stick it in the radiator that'll tell you your water temperature it only cost like $7 I'll leave mine in my other truck to tell me how cold my air conditioner is it has a little flip on it like to put in your pocket if you still have a problem you can always run a parallel switch run the switch directly to the radiator fan the opposition of the switch it'll still come on with a temperature sender on the engine but if that fails you can always flip on the switch

Those NPT tapered pipe threads they should seal without all that thread sealant

Just a little controversy into the mix . How do you know that the temp that you are seeing on the gauge is correct ? Just from experience I've found out the hard way just because you see what you want when using mismatched parts is good. Would check the temperature in top of rad to verify temp. Was always taught to double check. By the way pipe threads are manufactured with an interference fit should be able to seal on their own when properly tightened any sealer application is just a backup. Here I go T M I !! : )

@ScottRods

3 жыл бұрын

Hey Joe. I think you misunderstood. I WAS using mis-matched sensor/gauge, and getting a very high reading. Now I'm using the sensor that came with the gauge and getting the correct reading. Or at least I hope it's correct hahaha.

@joepacheco4038

3 жыл бұрын

@@ScottRods sorry Dave it's all coming back to me now. That's right in one of your videos you didn't have the right size adapter to use with the sensor. Lucky I wake up and still remember my name. LOL LOL

That's one way you can artistically rust stain your driveway I know cuz I've my driveways all screwed up I want to put muriatic acid in a gas tank put some rocks in it shook it around drained it on my driveway not thinking about it nice Rusty Brown streak going down my driveway I tried cleaning it with muriatic acid like 15 years ago it's still Brown LOL

@ScottRods

3 жыл бұрын

I had a large bucket underneath.

Does it matter if the sensor is in the head or the intake manifold?

@ScottRods

2 жыл бұрын

I have two sensors. One is in the block, and sends a reading to the gauge on my dash. The other sensor is on the cold side of the thermostat, and activates the electric fan when it detects overheating coming out the engine (once the thermostat is open. I would say, if you have a temp gauge in the car, you really want to know what the engine is running at, so taking a reading from the block where the water is circulating would make the most sense.

@brandonstewart7145

2 жыл бұрын

@@ScottRods Thanks for the response, I was just curious because currently i have my sensor in a port on top of my performer rpm intake. I have a 350 and when I drive on the highway it runs around 185-190 with a 180 thermostat, around town it stays at 180 and my fan cycles on and off. I took the thermostat out and temp was at like 155-160 no matter where I drove lol.

@rogjackson

11 ай бұрын

Yeah this is a reasonable question. I think the stock sensors in many of the Chevrolet V8s went to a temp "dummy" light what only came on if above 210ish. But they put these sensors in the head on the driver's side typically, as in this video. Most aftermarket guage companies instruct installers to put the temp guage sensor in the intake manifold as near to the thermostat outlet as possible to measure outgoing water temp before being cooled by radiator. The sensor in this video is really measuring cylinder head water temp, which is, obviously, closer to the exhaust manifold than an intake manifold sensor.

A cutting torch would have got that sensor out in seconds.

@ScottRods

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, but you know I would need a new project/house if I tried that.

Tapered pipe threads are supposed to be leak free. That's the whole point of the tapered design!! That said ,of course, if you over tighten them they distort and leak .Especially the small ones. Take it easy with the spanners. Also ,before you removed the old fitting that was really tight, why did you not heat it up a bit to loosen it? Come on Dave, use your nogging. Great vid as usual though.

@ScottRods

3 жыл бұрын

What would I heat it with? a hair dryer? lol. I don't have a torch.

@geoffdobbin9512

3 жыл бұрын

@@ScottRods Oh well. in that case I forgive you!! Something else to add to your wish list page. With regard to your replacement of your turn signal flashers. Look at the MG TC-TD-TF type. from the 1940-50's. They are chrome torpedo types, stylish and fit to the top of the front wings/fenders. They can be used as a side light as well if wired in correctly. Good luck and keep 'em coming.